were sold olives, raisins, currants, French 'Pruants,' and the choicer
sorts of French dry fruits, 'Pears of Rousselet, of Champagne, Prunes
of Tours, and Muscadine Grapes,' 'Candid Maderas Citrons, and Sweet
Barbary Almonds.'
CHAPTER XVI.
FOOD.
(LIQUID.)
Beer -- Hard drinking -- 'Whetters' -- Wines -- List of French
and Spanish wines -- Wines of other countries -- Duties on wines
-- Spirits -- Liqueurs -- Homemade wines -- Prices of tea --
Adulteration -- Price of coffee -- Chocolate -- Its price -- Duty
on.
Beer always has been the alcoholic liquor most largely consumed in
England, and, among the poorer and lower middle classes, it was so in
Anne's reign; but it was looked down upon, and despised, by the upper
classes. It was of different qualities, from the 'penny Nipperkin of
Molassas Ale'[269] to 'a pint of Ale cost me fivepence.'[270] Not only
were there the local brewers in London, but the excellence of 'right
Darby' and 'Sleeford or Lincolnshire' ales was such that these
breweries were represented. 'Right North Country Pale Ale ready
bottled at 4_s._ per dozen' was also to be had; and pale ale was
exported. 'Any Merchant that has occasion for Pale Ale and Stout, to
send to the West Indies, may at any time be supplied at the Fountain
Brewhouse, by the Hermitage, with Beer for Shipping at reasonable
rates.' Dantzic Spruce was also imported. Beer was taxed then, as now,
by the barrel. 'Yesterday the Commons, in a Committee of Ways and
Means, resolved, That an additional duty of 3_d._ per barrel be laid
upon all beer and ale above 6_s._ per barrel; and under 6_s._, 1_d._;
vinegar 9_d._; cyder per hogshead 5_d._; strong waters mead and
matheglin 1_d._ per gallon.'[271]
[Footnote 269: _London Spy._]
[Footnote 270: _Journal to Stella_, Nov. 29, 1710.]
[Footnote 271: _Luttrell's Diary_, Jan. 24, 1710.]
But, for well-to-do people, wine was the drink, and the variety was
nearly as great as in our time. It was a hard-drinking age, and the
habit was universal. 'I look'd to have found you with your Head ake
and your morning Qualms'[272] must have been a not unusual salutation;
but it was not done for the same reason as by those gentlemen
mentioned in the _Guardian_ (No. 58), 'who drink vast quantities of
ale and October to encourage our manufactures; and another who takes
his three bottles of French claret every night because it brings a
great custom to the Crown.'
[Footnote 272: _The Virtuoso._]
_Nightly_ on bended knees, the musty _Putt_,
Still Saints the _Spigot_, and Adores the _Butt_;
With fervent _Zeal_ the flowing Liquor plies
But _Damns_ the _Moderate_ Bottel ... for its size.
_The Tripe Club_, Swift.
These evening potations rendered a morning's draught generally
necessary; but, after that, drinking was again postponed till the
day's work was over. The modern system of 'nipping' did obtain to a
slight degree, but it was reprehended. 'Whereas Mr. Bickerstaff, by a
letter bearing date this twenty fourth of February, has received
information that there are in and about the Royal Exchange a sort of
people commonly known by the name of WHETTERS, who drink themselves
into an intermediate state of being neither drunk nor sober before the
hours of Exchange, or business; and in that condition buy and sell
stocks, discount notes, and do many other acts of well disposed
citizens; this is to give notice, that from this day forward no
WHETTER shall be able to give or endorse any note, or execute any
other point of Commerce, after the third half pint, before the hour of
one; and whoever shall transact any matter or matters with a WHETTER,
not being himself of that order, shall be conducted to Moorfields[273]
upon the first application of his next of kin.'[274]
[Footnote 273: Bedlam.]
[Footnote 274: _Tatler_, 138.]
The war with France made the French wines somewhat scarcer than they
would otherwise have been, and opened a trade for wines from other
countries; still the number of prizes taken, laden with clarets, etc.,
and the efforts of smugglers, kept the market pretty well supplied.
The wines seem to have been good, although the Spanish and Portuguese
wines were fortified with 'Stum,' a fact well known, especially as to
its effects: 'get drunk with Stum'd wine.'[275] The French wines were
very numerous--some even unknown to us by their names--comprising
Champagne, Burgundy, Frontiniac, Muscat, Anjou, Bouvrie (? Vouvray),
Bayonne, Obrian (Hautbrion), Pontack, Claret, Bomas (? Pomard), High
Priniac (Preignac), La Fitt, Margouze (Margeaux), La Tour, Graves,
Cahorze, Blacart, Monson, Hermitage, Langoon, Bosmes (? Beaumes),
Macco (? Macon), Languedoc, and Cap Breton clarets. Their prices were
various: ordinary clarets from the wood 4_s._ to 6_s._ per gallon;
good bottled clarets from 3_s._ or 4_s._ to 10_s._ a bottle. Champagne
came over in baskets or hampers containing ten dozen to two hundred
bottles per basket, and was sold retail about 8_s._ a bottle. Good
Burgundy cost 7_s._ a bottle, but these prices varied, as they do now,
with the quality.
[Footnote 275: Shadwell's _Epsom Wells_.]
French wines, however, were not universal favourites. 'A Bottle or two
of good solid Edifying Port, at honest _George's_, made a Night
chearful, and threw off Reserve. But this plaguy _French_ Claret will
not only Cost us more Money, but do us less Good,' growls Steele.[276]
Being at war with France, it was considered patriotic not to drink
French wine, and Port became popular. Its introduction was owing to
the treaty with Portugal in 1703, called the Methuen Treaty, from the
name of our minister at Lisbon. It is famed as being the shortest
treaty known, consisting of only two clauses, one that the Portuguese
should take British cloths, and the other that Portuguese wines should
be admitted here at one third less duty than the French wines paid.
Red Viana seems to have been frequently substituted for port, and it
was sold at about 5_s._ a gallon. Then there were White Viana, Lisbon,
Passada, Annadea, Bende Carlo (Beni Carlos), Barrabar, Carcavella, and
Ribidavia, whilst the Spanish wines were Sherry, Malaga, Tent,
Saragusa, Villa Nova, Barcelona, Alicant, Re Gallicia, Sallo or
Mattero, and White Muscadine. There were Florence wines, which came
over in rush-covered flasks with oil in the neck of the
flasks--Chiante, Multapulchana (? Montepulciano), Madeira, Canary,
Tockay from Hungary, and also (verily, there is very little new under
the sun) _Carlowitz_, from the same country; there were wines from
Neuchatel, and a wine I cannot class, called Mount Allaguer. We hear
very little of Rhenish wines. In 'Tunbridge Walks' an uncomplimentary
reference is made, 'Dam rotgut Rhenish'; but fine old hock was selling
in 1713 at 26_s._ a dozen, including bottles, or new Rhenish might be
had for 1_s._ 8_d._ a quart, or 6_s._ a gallon. It is hardly worth
going into the prices of these miscellaneous wines. One advertisement
will be sufficient. 'Advertisement to Private Families of 33 Dozen
Bottles of excellent rich Palm Canary Wine, a Flower; also 45 Dozen of
Curious Red Zant, a most noble and scarce Wine, no Champaign or
Burgundy drinks finer, and likewise 60 Dozen of Choice Florence Wine,
true Flavour and Colour, all perfect Neat, and as good as ever was
tasted, reserv'd by a Gentleman for his own drinking, but oblig'd to
sell them: The Palm Wine at 30_s._ a Dozen, the Zant and Florence each
36_s._ Bottles and all (none less than 4 Bottles) which is but at the
rate of 2_s._ 3_d._ a Quart for the Palm Wine, and 2_s._ 9_d._ for the
Zant and Florence, tho' would fetch more if the Owner could Keep them,
the like being scarcely to be had in Town, at leastwise not under
3_s._ a Quart the first, and 3_s._ 6_d._ the last, if for that, and
will be dearer.'
[Footnote 276: _Spectator_, No. 43.]
Retailers had to take out a licence to sell wine; and of course there
were customs duties. Luttrell says, Dec. 4, 1703: 'Yesterday the
Commons, in a Committee upon the Supply, resolved, nemine
contradicente, that 1_s._ per gallon be laid upon all Wines over and
above the present Customs, to be paid by the retailer;' but,
afterwards, he writes, Jan. 15, 1704, that the Commons rejected the
bill for 1_s._ per gallon upon wines. On March 20, 1706, the Queen
gave her royal assent to an Act 'for a further duty on low Wines';
and, in 1713, French wines paid a duty of 4_s._ 6_d._ per gallon!
_The_ wine merchants of the time were an enterprising firm named
Brooke & Hellier (mentioned in the _Spectator_ more than once), who
had several branch establishments in various parts of London, even
brought wine by road from Bristol, and one year paid as much as
25,000_l._ customs duties; but they came to grief in 1712, and
dissolved partnership. Brooke afterwards set up in business by
himself.
There was Batavian arrack for those that liked it, usquebaugh (both
green and golden), and brandy--especially Nants brandy--beloved
of the poor in penny drams. Not but what there were other
brandies--Gaudarella, Viana or Fial (? Fayal), Strasburg, Spanish, and
even our familiar old friend _British_ brandy. The average retail
price of 'right Nants' seems to have been about 12_s._ per gallon, but
Spanish could be got 2_s._ 6_d._ per gallon cheaper. In 1713 the
customs duty on brandy was 6_s._ 8_d._ per gallon; freight and leakage
came to 2_s._ 6_d._; so that it did not leave much profit after paying
for the brandy.
There were liqueurs and cordials; and they must have been very
diversified, for the name of the 'Still room' was not then an empty
sound; and scandal just whispered that it was sometimes possible that
the dear creatures tasted their own manufactures. Are we to believe
the following sketch? 'It would make a Man smile to behold her Figure
in a front Box, where her twinkling Eyes, by her Afternoon's Drams of
Ratifee and cold Tea, sparkle more than her Pendants.... Her Closet is
always as well stor'd with Juleps, Restoratives, and Strong Waters, as
an Apothecary's Shop, or a Distiller's Laboratory; and is herself so
notable a Housewife in the Art of preparing them that she has a larger
Collection of Chemical Receipts than a Dutch Mountebank.... As soon as
she rises, she must have a Salutary Dram to keep her Stomach from the
Cholick; a Whet before she eats, to procure Appetite; after eating, a
plentiful Dose for Concoction; and to be sure a Bottle of Brandy under
her Bed side for fear of fainting in the Night.'[277]
[Footnote 277: _Adam and Eve Stript of their Furbelows._]
These cordials were not always palatable, if we can believe Addison's
description of 'Widow Trueby's Water,' which Sir Roger 'always drank
before he went abroad.' There were the 'Ratafia of Apricocks,' the
'Fenouillette of Rhé,' 'Millefleurs,' 'Orangiat,' 'Burgamot,'
'Pesciot,' and citron or cithern water, with many others. Elder and
other home-made wines were in use. Let us see how they were
appreciated. 'Her female Ancestors have always been fam'd for good
Housewifry, one of whom is made immortal, by giving her Name to an Eye
Water and two sorts of Puddings. I cannot undertake to recite all her
Medicinal Preparations; as Salves, Sere cloths, Powders, Confects,
Cordials, Ratifia, Persico, Orange Flower, and Cherry Brandy, together
with innumerable sorts of Simple Waters. But there is nothing I lay so
much to Heart, as that detestable Catalogue of Counterfeit Wines,
which derive their Names from the Fruits, Herbs or trees of whose
Juices they are chiefly compounded: _They are loathsome to the taste
and pernicious to the health_; and as they seldom survive the Year,
and then are thrown away, under a false Pretence of Frugality, I may
affirm they stand me in more than if I entertain'd all our Visiters
with the best Burgundy and Champaign.'[278]
[Footnote 278: _Spectator_, 328.]
Punch had begun to make its appearance, but it was a simple liquor to
what afterwards became known by that name. Here is a receipt given by
a noted brandy merchant of the time: 'Major Bird's Receipt to make
Punch of his Brandy. Take 1 Quart of his Brandy, and it will bear 2
Quarts and a Pint of Spring Water; if you drink it very strong, then 2
Quarts of Water to a Quart of Brandy, with 6 or 8 Lisbon Lemmons, and
half a Pound of fine Loaf Sugar: Then you will find it to have a
curious fine scent and flavour, and Drink and Taste as clean as
Burgundy Wine.'
There was also an intoxicating liquor, still in limited use, called
'Brunswick Mum,' whose price was '9_s._ the dozen without doors, and
10_s._ within.' The name of this compound is supposed to be derived
from its power of making men _speechlessly_ drunk.
The clamorous crowd is hush'd with mugs of mum,
Till all, turn'd equal, send a general hum.
Bottled cyder, too, could be obtained at 6_s._ per dozen.
The antidote to all these intoxicants was to be found in 'The Essence
of Prunes, Chymically prepar'd by a Son of Monsieur Rochefort, a Sworn
Chymist of France. It gives English Spirits the smell and taste of
Nantz Brandy; _it prevents any Liquor from intoxicating the Brain_.'
We must not forget, however, that tea, coffee, and chocolate were in
much demand, and that both the coffee and chocolate houses really
supplied these beverages as their staple article. Tea was more of a
home drink, and was very dear, reckoning the different values of
money. Perhaps there were greater fluctuations in its price than in
any other article of food. Black tea varied in 1704 from 12_s._ to
16_s._ per lb.; in 1706, 14_s._ to 16_s._; in 1707, which seems to
have been an exceptionally dear year, 16_s._, 20_s._, 22_s._, 24_s._,
30_s._, and 32_s._; in 1709, it was from 14_s._ to 28_s._; and in
1710, 12_s._ to 28_s._ Green tea in 1705 was 13_s._ 6_d._; in 1707,
20_s._, 22_s._, 26_s._; in 1709, 10_s._ to 15_s._; and in 1710, 10_s._
to 16_s._ The difference between old and new is given once. The new
tea is 14_s._, and the old 12_s._ and 10_s._
The margins in price are not only accounted for by the difference in
age, but it was well known that old leaves were redried, and used in
the cheaper sorts; indeed, there is a very curious advertisement in
the advertising portion of the _Tatler_, Aug. 26, 1710: 'Bohea Tea,
made of the same Materials that Foreign Bohea is made of, 16_s._ a
Pound. Sold by R. Fary only, at the Bell in Grace Church Street,
Druggist. Note. The Natural Pecko Tea will remain, after Infusion, of
a light grey Colour. All other Bohea Tea, tho' there be White in it,
will Change Colour, and is artificial.'
Luttrell writes, Dec. 16, 1704: 'The Commons in a Committee of wayes
and means, resolved to double the duties on Coffee, Tea, and
Chocolate.'
The first noteworthy incident in the price of coffee in this reign is
an advertisement.[279] 'Whereas Coffee was formerly sold at 2_s._
6_d._ per pound, and is now already amounted to betwixt 6_s._ and
7_s._ per pound, the Majority of the Retailers have thought it
reasonable to request their Customers to pay 3 half pence per Dish,
and do assure that no person that sells Coffee for 1_d._ a Dish can
make good Coffee.' It is rather interesting to watch the fluctuations
in price. In 1706, from 6_s._ to 6_s._ 8_d._ per lb.; in 1707, from
7_s._ it fell to 5_s._ 10_d._ and 5_s._ 4_d._; in 1708 it rose, either
owing to speculation, or a failure in the crop, to 8_s._ 4_d._,
10_s._, and 11_s._ 6_d._, which was the highest price, when it fell to
9_s._ 10_d._ and 9_s._ In 1709 it still further fell--7_s._ 4_d._ and
6_s._ 8_d._; and in 1710 it was 5_s._ 8_d._
[Footnote 279: _Postman_, April 27/30, 1706.]
Attention was paid to its manufacture, for we find that 'Thomas
Burges, Druggist, removed from Snow hill to the Blew Anchor in Fleet
Street, near Serjeants Inn, sells the best of Coffee roasted after a
new way, having a better flavour, and is a much sweeter way than the
common method of roasting Coffee.'
As tea came into favour, chocolate-drinking fell into disuse, although
it was generally taken as a drink the first thing in the morning,
before taking tea and toast. It was of two kinds, Caracas or Caraco,
and Martineco; and the former was the most esteemed. It was roasted
and ground, and either sold plain or mixed with sugar. Its usual price
was 3_s._ per lb. for the one, and 2_s._ 6_d._ for the other. Early in
1703, a man advertised a machine of his invention, for making
chocolate of a far superior quality, at least 1_s._ per lb. under the
then prices; and, as his advertisements are somewhat curious, an
example is given: 'To the Nobility and Gentry. Whereas the Author of
the new Invention for making Chocolate, hath given a general
Satisfaction both for its fineness, goodness and Cheapness, to all
those that ever yet drank of the same, besides the Satisfaction all
persons have of its being cleanly made, upon sight of the Invention,
which some Malicious persons, the better to impose upon the World to
vend their foul broken Nuts does imitate; but for the working part are
as Ignorant as a Natural Bull. But the Author of this Invention thinks
himself oblig'd to declare to the World, after 10 Years improving the
same with great charge and labour, as many honourable persons in
London can testifie; and if any person can make it appear, that they
were the first Inventers of this so great a conveniency, as does no
ways exceed 12 Inches, before himself, the Author will lay it by, and
Act no more, notwithstanding he is now actually petitioning Her
Majesty for a Patten, and, till such time as he shall obtain the same,
will continue to make and sell his Chocolate at these Rates following,
_viz._ All Spanish Nut with Vanello at 4_s._ 8_d._ a pound, plain
4_s._ 2_d._ all Marteneco Nut with Vanello 3_s._ 8_d._--plain 3_s._
2_d._--both sorts made up with Sugar answerable. If any Chocolate
maker, or others, can make it appear he reserves above 8_d._ in
selling a pound for labour and charges in making, a farther remittance
shall be made in the price.' This gentleman subsequently advertised
that he sold it at '2_d._ per Dish liquid--14_d._ a Quart without
doors. Sundays excepted.'
The duty on the nuts was sufficiently high to induce smuggling. 'Last
Week 6 Sacks of Cocoa Nuts were seiz'd by a Custom House Officer,
being brought up to Town for so many sacks of Beans.'[280]
[Footnote 280: _London Post_, April 14/17, 1704.]
CHAPTER XVII.
TOBACCO.
Habit of smoking -- Women and children smoking -- Prices of
tobacco -- Customs duty -- Origin of snuff-taking -- The Vigo
Expedition -- Snuff rasps -- Ladies taking snuff -- Proper use of
the snuff-box -- Use of a spoon -- Prices of snuffs -- List of
ditto -- Duty on snuff.
Allusion has been made to the prevalent use of tobacco, both in
smoking and as snuff; and, perhaps, at no time in the century was
there a larger consumption. The habit of meeting convivially at the
coffee-houses, and taverns, favoured the practice of smoking among the
men. Ward, who disliked smoking, gives the following account of a
famous tobacco shop in Fleet Street. Speaking of the company
assembled, he says: 'There was no Talking amongst 'em, but _Puff_ was
the Period of every Sentence; and what they said was as short as
possible, for fear of losing the Pleasure of a Whiff, as _How d'ye
do?_ Puff. _Thank ye._ Puff. _Is the Weed good?_ Puff. _Excellent._
Puff. _It's fine Weather._ Puff. _G--d be thanked._ Puff. _What's a
clock?_ Puff, &c. Behind the Counter stood a Complaisant Spark who I
observ'd show'd as much Breeding in the Sale of a Pennyworth of
Tobacco, and the Change of a Shilling, as a Courteous Footman when he
meets his Brother _Skip_ in the Middle of _Covent Garden_; and is so
very Dexterous in Discharge of his Occupation, that he guesses from a
Pound of Tobacco to an Ounce, to the certainty of one single Corn. And
will serve more Pennyworths of Tobacco in half an Hour, than some
Clouterly _Mundungus Sellers_ shall be able to do in half Four and
Twenty. He never makes a Man wait the Tenth part of a Minute for his
Change, but will so readily fling you down all Sums, without Counting,
from a Guinea to three Pennyworth of Farthings, that you would think
he had it ready in his Hand for you before you ask'd him for it. He
was very generous of his Small beer to a good Customer; and I am
bound to say thus much in his behalf, That he will show a Man more
Civility for the taking of a Penny than many _Mechanicks_ will do for
the taking a Pound.'
'Tobacco is very much used in England. The very Women take it in
Abundance, particular'y in the Western Counties,' writes Misson, and
Brown also mentions the practice; but, although Jorevin reports that
in Charles the Second's time, in Worcestershire, it was not only usual
for the women to join the men in smoking, but that the children were
sent to school with pipes in their satchels, and the schoolmaster
called a halt in their studies whilst they all smoked--he teaching the
neophytes--yet Thoresby runs him very hard. '20 Jan. 1702. Evening
with brother &c. at Garraway's[281] Coffee House; was surprised to see
his sickly child of three years old fill its pipe of Tobacco and smoke
it as _audfarandly_ as a man of three score; after that, a second and
a third pipe without the least concern, as it is said to have done
above a year ago.'
[Footnote 281: At Leeds.]
The tobacco was twisted into rope and made up in rolls, more after the
fashion of Varinas Knaster than of our other twisted tobaccos, and it
generally had to be cut up before using. Its price may be learned from
the following advertisements. 'Whereas there has been several Persons
who have pretended to sell the true Spanish roll'd Tobacco; These are
therefore to inform the World, that Jeremiah Stoaks at Garraway's
Coffee House in Exchange Ally, bought the whole Parcel that was
brought into England, as by Prize taken by Her Majesty's Fleet at
Vigo, and that there is not a Nett Portacco in England but what he has
in his Hands; These are therefore to advise all Gentlemen, that they
may be furnish'd with the same tobacco at 8_s._ per Pound, at the
above mentioned Place, and no where else.' This class of tobacco was
evidently exceedingly choice, comparing it with the ordinary price.
'Benjamin Howes, Tobacconist, at the Corner of Shoe Lane in Fleet
Street, London, who hath lived there 30 years and upwards; he was
Partner with Mr. Montague, did sell his best old, mild, sweet-scented
Virginia Tobacco for 2_s._ per Pound, does now, and will continue to
sell the same for 20_d._, either Large Cut, Small or Long Cut, and
Penny Papers for Taverns or Publick Houses, full half Ounces for
20_d._ a Pound (for present Money). He sells right Spanish in the Roll
for 8_s._ a Pound, and Spanish and Virginia mixt for 3_s._ a pound,
and Encouragement to Country Chapmen.'
There was a Customs duty on tobacco, of course; and we find, in 1707,
the Irish Parliament increasing this tax, among many others, in order
to vote a supply of 135,000_l._ to Her Majesty. 'Dublin, 5 Aug.
Resolved, That it is the Opinion of this Committee that the said
Additional Duty be three pence halfpenny per Pound weight on all
Tobacco which shall be so Imported into this Kingdom, from and after
the said 29th day of September 1707 over and above the Hereditary Duty
of two pence halfpenny per Pound, payable for the same.'
But it was the singular growth of the practice of taking snuff that
specially marks the reign of Anne, before which time it was
comparatively unknown. Lillie, the perfumer, previously mentioned,
sold snuff, as all his craft did: and from him we get a very
interesting account of its rise. He says: 'Before the year 1702, when
we sent out a fleet of ships under the command of Sir George Rooke,
with land forces commanded by the Duke of Ormond, in order to make a
descent on Cadiz, snuff taking was very rare, and, indeed, little
known in England; it being chiefly a luxurious habit among foreigners
residing here, and a few of the English gentry who had travelled
abroad. Among these, the mode of taking the snuff was with pipes of
the size of quills, out of small spring boxes. These pipes let out a
very small quantity of snuff, upon the back of the hand, and this was
snuffed up the nostrils with the intention of producing the sensation
of sneezing, which, I need not say, forms now no part of the design,
or rather fashion of snuff taking.
'But to return to our expedition by sea. When the fleet arrived near
Cadiz, our land forces were disembarked at a place called Port St.
Mary, where, after some fruitless attempts, it was resolved to
re-embark the troops, and set sail for England. But previous to this,
Port St. Mary, and some adjacent places were plundered. Here, besides
some very rich merchandize, plate, jewels, pictures, and a great
quantity of cochineal, several thousand barrels and casks of fine
snuffs were taken, which had been manufactured in different parts of
Spain. Each of these contained four tin canisters of snuff of the best
growth, and of the finest Spanish manufacture.
'With this plunder on board (which fell chiefly to the share of the
land officers) the fleet was returning to England; but, on the way, it
was resolved to pay a visit to Vigo, a considerable port in Spain,
where the Admiral had advice that a number of galleons from the
Havannah, richly laden, had put in. Here our fleet got in and
destroyed most, or all of the Spanish shipping, and the plunder was
exceedingly rich and valuable.
'It now came to the turn of the _sea_ officers and _sailors_ to be
snuff proprietors and merchants; for, at Vigo, they became possessed
of prodigious quantities of gross snuff, from the Havannah, in bales,
bags, and scrows,[282] which were designed for manufacture in
different parts of Spain. Thus, though snuff taking was very little
known or practised in England, at that period, the quantities taken in
this expedition, (which was estimated at fifty tons weight,) plainly
shew that in the other countries of Europe, snuff was held in great
estimation, and that the taking of it was considered not at all
unfashionable.
[Footnote 282: Raw hide packages.]
'The fleet having returned to England, and the ships being ordered to
be laid in their several ports, the sea officers and sailors brought
their snuff (which was called, by way of victorious distinction, Vigo
Snuff,) to a very quick and cheap market; waggonloads of it being sold
at Portsmouth, Plymouth, and Chatham, for not more than three or four
pence per pound.
'This sort of bale snuff had never been seen or known in England
before, except through some Spanish Jews, who, in the present case,
bought up almost the whole quantity at a considerable advantage.
'The land officers, who were possessed of the fine snuffs taken at
Port St. Mary, sold some of them in the several ports at which they
landed. Others of them, however, understood better the nature of the
commodity which had fallen to their share, and kept it for several
years, selling it off by degrees, for very high prices.
'From the above mentioned quantity of different snuffs, thus
distributed throughout the kingdom, novelty being quickly embraced by
us in England, arose the custom and fashion of snuff taking; and,
growing upon the whole nation, by degrees, it is now almost as
universal here, as in any other part of Europe.'
But snuff was not always sold ready made: people made their own, out
of roll tobacco--by means of rasps, which were generally carried in
the pocket. Specimens of these rasps may be seen at the South
Kensington Museum, but, unless they are in some loan collection, they
are very poor examples. In private collections, and especially on the
Continent, are some of them, being exquisite specimens of ivory
carving. 'Then there's the Miscellany, an apron for Stella, a pound of
chocolate, without sugar, for Stella, a fine snuff rasp of ivory,
given me by Mrs. St. John for Dingley, and a large roll of tobacco,
which she must hide, or cut shorter out of modesty, and four pair of
spectacles for the Lord knows who.'[283]
[Footnote 283: _Journal to Stella_, Nov. 3, 1711.]
Here we see how customary it was for ladies to take snuff in 1711,
although Steele seems to be shocked at it, as quite a new fashion in
1712. Vide his letter in _Spectator_ (344): 'I have writ to you three
or four times to desire you would take notice of an impertinent Custom
the Women, the fine Women, have lately fallen into, of taking Snuff.
This silly Trick is attended with such a Coquet Air in some Ladies,
and such a sedate Masculine one in others, that I can not tell which
to most complain of; but they are to me equally disagreeable. Mrs.
_Saunter_ is so impatient of being without it, that she takes it as
often as she does Salt at meals; and as she affects a wonderful Ease
and Negligence in all her manners, an upper Lip mixed with Snuff and
the Sauce is what is presented to the Observation of all who have the
honour to eat with her. The pretty Creature her Niece does all she can
to be as disagreeable as her Aunt; and, if she is not so offensive to
the Eye, she is quite as much to the Ear, and makes up all she wants
in a confident Air, by a nauseous Rattle of the Nose, when the Snuff
is delivered, and the Fingers make the Stops and Closes on the
Nostrils.... But _Flavilla_ is so far taken with her Behaviour in this
kind, that she pulls out her Box (which is indeed full of good
_Brazile_) in the middle of the Sermon;[284] and to shew she has the
Audacity of a well bred Woman, she offers it to the Men, as well as to
the Women who sit near her.... On Sunday was sennight, when they came
about for the Offering, she gave her Charity with a very good Air, but
at the same Time asked the Church warden if he would take a Pinch.'
[Footnote 284: See also _Tatler_, 140.]
But, if the ladies took snuff, how much more did the men? who were
especially addicted to 'the humour of taking SNUFF, and looking dirty
about the mouth by way of ornament.' They took snuff 'with a very
Jantee Air,'[285] as is well exemplified by Steele's humorous puff in
_Spectator_ (138): 'The Exercise of the Snuff Box, according to the
most fashionable Airs and Motions, in opposition to the Exercise of
the Fan, will be taught with the best plain or perfumed Snuff at
Charles Lillie's, Perfumer, at the Corner of Beaufort Buildings in the
Strand, and Attendance given for the Benefit of the young Merchants
about the Exchange for two hours every day at Noon, except Sundays, at
a Toy Shop near Garraway's Coffee House. There will likewise be Taught
The Ceremony of the Snuff box, or Rules for offering Snuff to a
Stranger, a Friend, or a Mistress, according to the Degrees of
Familiarity or Distance; with an Explanation of the Careless, the
Scornful, the Politick, and the Surly Pinch, and the Gestures proper
to each of them.'
[Footnote 285: Centlivre's _The Wonder, a Woman Keeps a
Secret_, ed. 1714.]
Snuff was not always taken with the finger and thumb, but a spoon was
used--as it is now, in some parts of Scotland, Lapland, Sweden,
Norway, and China. In the prologue of a play called 'Hampstead Heath,'
published in 1706, this habit is mentioned.
To Noddles cram'd with Dighton's musty Snuff
Whose nicer Tasts think Wit consists alone
In Tunbridge Wooden Box with Wooden Spoon.
And in the play (Act 3):--
_Chum._ Madam, I beg your Pardon, 'tis what the Jews take; but I
carry sweet Snuff for the Ladies. (_Shows another box._)
_Arabella._ A Spoon too, that's very gallant; for to see some
People run their fat Fingers into a Box is as nauseous as eating
without a Fork.
The prices of snuffs varied much in this reign: the following is the
best list I can make out:--
1705. 1706. 1707. 1711. 1713.
s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d.
Lisbon p. oz. 1 6 1 8 and 1s. 2d. 2 p. lb. 26s. -- 1 6 or p. lb. 20s.
Tunquin " -- 1 6 -- -- --
Spanish " -- 6 p. lb. 2s. 6d. & 4s. -- 3 6 to 5s. p. lb. --
Havanna " -- 6 -- 6 0 p. lb. --
Seville " -- 6 -- -- --
Italian " -- 1 6 and 1s. -- -- --
Burgamot " -- 1 6 and 1s. -- -- --
Musty " -- 6 -- -- --
Brazile " -- 6 6s. p. lb. 84s. 2s. 6d. p. lb. 32s. 3s. p. oz.
A more exhaustive list could have been made, but enough is given to
show the difference in price of the various sorts. These were more
than have just been given, and included Oronoko, Barcelona, Portugal,
Tonkar, Orangerie, Port St. Mary's, Alicant, Rancia, and Cabinet
Havannah.
And there were snuffs which hardly came under the category of harmless
sternutatories: as, 'The true Imperial Golden Snuff; which thousands
of People have found to be the most effectual Remedy ever known, for
all Distempers of the Head and Brain; It immediately cures the
Headach, be the Pain ever so violent; instantly removes Drowsiness,
Sleepiness, Giddiness and Vapours; it is most excellent against
Deafness and Noise in the Ears; cures stoppages or cold in the Head,
&c.; and far exceeds all other Snuff for all Humours in the Eyes and
Dimness of sight, and certainly prevents Appoplexies and Falling
Sickness.'
Snuff played its part in helping to pay for the long war with
France.[286] '9 Feb. 1710. Yesterday the House of Commons, in a
Committee on Ways and means, resolved, that ... a duty of 3_s._ per
pound be laid upon Snuff above what it already pays, except that of
Her Majesty's growth.'
[Footnote 286: _Luttrell._]
CHAPTER XVIII.
COFFEE-HOUSES AND TAVERNS.
Universal use of coffee-houses -- Their convenience -- Company --
First coffee-house -- Number of them -- Anecdote of Bishop
Trelawney -- Description of interior -- The news -- Advance in
price -- Chocolate-houses -- Famous coffee-houses -- Button's
Lion -- Lloyd's -- Sales by candle -- Jenny Man -- Don Saltero's
collection -- Taverns -- Noblemen frequenting them -- Drinking own
wine -- Purl houses -- List of old taverns.
[Illustration: A Coffee House.]
The coffee-house was not a new institution in Anne's reign, but then
it reached the zenith of its popularity. It was the centre of news,
the lounge of the idler, the rendezvous for appointments, the mart for
business men. Men might have their letters left there, as did
Swift;[287] 'Yet Presto[288] ben't angry, faith, not a bit, only he
will begin to be in pain next Irish Post, except he sees M.D.'s little
handwriting in the glass frame at the bar of St. James's Coffee House,
where Presto would never go but for that purpose.' They were alike the
haunt of the wit and the man of fashion--a neutral meeting-ground for
all men, although they naturally assorted themselves, like to like, by
degrees. There
The gentle _Beau_ too, Joyns in wise Debate,
_Adjusts_ his Cravat, and _Reforms_ the State[289]
--and he might even rub shoulders with a highwayman, as Farquhar
suggests, when he makes Aimwell say to Gibbet,[290] who is a
highwayman, 'Pray Sir, ha'nt I seen your face at Will's Coffee House?'
and he replies, 'Yes Sir, and at White's too.' But the excellent rules
in force, and the good common sense of the frequenters, prevented any
ill effects from this admixture of classes. All were equal, and took
the first seat which came to hand. If a man swore, he was fined 1_s._,
and if he began a quarrel he was fined 'dishes' round. Discussion on
religion was prohibited, no card-playing or dicing allowed, and no
wager might be made exceeding 5_s._ These were the simple rules
generally used, and, if they were only complied with, all must have
felt the benefit of such a mild despotism.
[Footnote 287: _Journal to Stella_, letter 14.]
[Footnote 288: A nickname of Swift's--a play on his name.]
[Footnote 289: _The Tripe Club._]
[Footnote 290: _The Beaux' Stratagem_, act. iii. sc. 2.]
Wood mentions that the first coffee-house was at Oxford, and was kept,
in 1650, by Jacobs, a Jew. The first in London seems to have been kept
by a foreigner named Rosa Pasquee, in 1652, in St. Michael's Alley,
Cornhill, whilst Hatton says[291]: 'I find it Recorded that one _James
Farr_, a Barber, who kept the Coffee House which now is the _Rainbow_,
by the Inner Temple Gate, (one of the first in England) was in the
year 1657 presented by the Inquest of St. Dunstans in the W. for
Making and Selling a sort of Liquor, called Coffee, as a great Nusance
and Prejudice of the neighbourhood, &c. And who would then have
thought London would ever have had near 3,000 such Nusances, and that
Coffee should have been (as now) so much Drank by the best of Quality
and Physicians.' Of these 'near 3,000' I have, in my searches through
the newspapers, etc., of the period, found the names of over 500,
which, to preserve them again from falling into oblivion, are to be
found in the Appendix to this book.
[Footnote 291: _New View of London_, 1708.]
These coffee-houses sold alcoholic liquors as well as coffee; a fact
which is somewhat whimsically illustrated in the following extract
from a letter of Bishop Trelawney to Bishop Sprat, July 20, 1702 or
3.[292] 'I had a particular obligation to Burnett, and will publicly
thank him in print (among other matters I have to say to him, and to
his Articles against our religion) for his causing it to be spread by
his emissaries that I was drunk at Salisbury the 30th of January;
whereas the Major General,[293] Captain Culleford, a very honest
Clergyman, and the people of the Inn (which was a coffee house too)
can swear I drank nothing but two dishes of Coffee; and, indeed I had
not stopped at all, but to enable my children by a very slender bait,
to hold out to Blandford, where I dined at 6 that night.'
[Footnote 292: _Atterbury's Correspondence_, ed. 1784, vol.
iii. p. 87.]
[Footnote 293: His brother. Bishop Trelawney was also a
baronet; and he had an unepiscopal habit of swearing
occasionally, but when such a _faux pas_ occurred he always
said it was the baronet, not the bishop, that swore. The
inconvenience of this arrangement was pointed out to him one
day by a friend, who remarked that, if the baronet was
damned for swearing, what would become of the bishop.]
Misson, speaking of coffee-houses, says: 'These Houses, which are
very numerous in London, are extreamly convenient. You have all Manner
of News there: You have a good Fire, which you may sit by as long as
you please; You have a Dish of Coffee, you meet your Friends for the
Transaction of Business, and all for a Penny, if you don't Care to
spend more.' Yes, that was all--anybody, decently dressed, might have
all this accommodation for _One Penny_. 'Laying down my Penny upon the
Bar,' writes Addison,[294] and 'so briefly deposited my Copper at the
Bar,' says Brown, show that the _habitués_ spent no more; and Steele,
in the first number of the _Tatler_, speaking of the expenses
attending the production of the paper, says: 'I once more desire my
readers to consider, that as I cannot keep an ingenious man to go
daily to Will's under two pence each day, merely for his charges; to
White's under sixpence; nor to the Grecian, without allowing him some
plain Spanish (snuff) to be as able as others at the learned table,'
etc.
[Footnote 294: _Spectator_, No. 31.]
A man with leisure got rid of some hours daily at the coffee-house, or
houses, and such a one would spend from 10 A.M. till noon, and again,
after his two-o'clock dinner, would be there from 4 to 6, when he
would leave for the theatre, or his turn in the park.
The illustration gives us an excellent idea of the interior of a
coffee-house, and its domestic economy--the _dame de comptoir_, the
roaring fire with its perpetual supply of hot water, and its coffee
and tea pots set close by, so as to be kept warm, and the very plain
tables and stools, show the accommodation that was required, and
accepted, by the very plain-living people of that day.
A coffee-house is necessarily a _pièce de résistance_ with Ward. He
describes it graphically, though somewhat roughly, and he brings the
scene of the interior vividly before our eyes. 'Come, says my Friend,
let us step into this Coffee House here; as you are a Stranger in the
Town, it will afford you some Diversion. Accordingly in we went, where
a parcel of Muddling _Muckworms_ were as busy as so many _Rats_ in an
old _Cheese Loft_; some Going, some Coming, some Scribling, some
Talking, some Drinking, some Smoaking, others Jangling; and the whole
Room stinking of Tobacco, like a Dutch Scoot or a Boatswain's Cabbin.
The Walls being hung with Gilt Frames, as a Farriers shop with Horse
shooes; which contain'd abundance of Rarities, viz. Nectar and
Ambrosia, May Dew, Golden Elixirs, Popular Pills, Liquid Snuff,
Beautifying Waters, Dentifrisis, Drops, Lozenges, all as infallible as
the Pope,
Where every one above the rest
Deservedly has gain'd the Name of Best
(as the famous _Saffold_ has it).'
Brown, also, has plenty to say about them, but one short extract only
will be borrowed: 'Every Coffee House is illuminated both without and
within doors; without by a fine glass Lantern, and within by a Woman
so light and splendid, you may see through her without the help of a
Perspective. At the Bar the good Man always places a Charming Phillis
or two, who invite you by their amorous glances into their smoaky
Territories, to the loss of your sight.' These 'pretty barmaids' are
spoken of by Steele[295]: 'Upon reading your late Dissertation
concerning _Idols_, I cannot but complain to you that there are, in
Six or Seven Places of this City, Coffee houses kept by Persons of
that Sisterhood. These _Idols_ sit and receive all Day long the
adoration of the Youth within such and such Districts,' etc. Another
contemporary[296] notices that 'A Handsom Bar keeper invites more than
the Bush. She's the Loadstone that attracts Men of Steel, both those
that wear it to some purpose, and those that wear it to none. No City
Dame is demurer than she at first Greeting, nor draws in her Mouth
with a Chaster Simper; but in a little time you may be more familiar,
and she'll hear a double Entendre without blushing.'
[Footnote 295: _Spectator_, No. 87.]
[Footnote 296: _Hickelty Pickelty._]
Steele[297] gives a polished account of coffee-house frequenters and
politicians: 'I, who am at the Coffee house at Six in a Morning, know
that my friend _Beaver_ the Haberdasher has a Levy of more
undissembled Friends and Admirers, than most of the Courtiers or
Generals of Great Britain. Every Man about him has, perhaps, a News
Paper in his Hand; but none can pretend to guess what Step will be
taken in any one Court of Europe, till Mr. _Beaver_ has thrown down
his Pipe, and declares what Measures the Allies must enter into upon
this new Posture of Affairs. Our Coffee House is near one of the Inns
of Court, and _Beaver_ has the Audience and Admiration of his
Neighbours from Six 'till within a Quarter of Eight, at which time he
is interrupted by the Students of the House; some of whom are ready
dress'd for Westminster, at Eight in a Morning, with Faces as busie as
if they were retained in every Cause there; and others come in their
Night Gowns to saunter away their Time, as if they never designed to
go thither. I do not know that I meet in any of my Walks, Objects
which move both my Spleen and laughter so effectually, as these young
Fellows at the Grecian, Squire's, Searle's, and all other Coffee
Houses adjacent to the Law, who rise early for no other purpose but to
publish their Laziness. One would think these young _Virtuosos_ take a
gay Cap and Slippers, with a Scarf and Party Coloured Gown, to be
Ensigns of Dignity, for the vain things approach each other with an
Air, which shews they regard one another for their Vestments.... When
the Day grows too busie for these Gentlemen to enjoy any longer the
Pleasures of their _Deshabille_ with any manner of Confidence, they
give place to Men who have Business or Good Sense in their Faces, and
come to the Coffee house, either to transact Affairs or enjoy
Conversation.'
[Footnote 297: _Spectator_, 49.]
News was, of course, one of the prime objects of these gatherings. 'I
love News extreamly, I have read Three News Letters to day. I go from
Coffee House to Coffee House all day on Purpose,'[298] was literally
true of some men. Not that their little newspapers gave them much--but
of them hereafter. Yet there was a chance of hearing some news before
it got into the papers; and the _quidnuncs_ would go to the Windsor,
where was to be had 'also the Translation of the Harlem Courant, soon
after the Post is come,' or to Grigsby's, where 'all Foreign News is
taken in, and Translated into English immediately after the arrival of
any Mail,' or to Elford's, where 'is to be seen and read Gratis, the
Journal of the famous Voyage of the Duke and Dutchess Privateer of
Bristol that took the rich Aquiápulca Ship containing many remarkable
Transactions. Also an Account of a Man living alone 4 Years and 4
Months in the Island of John Fernando, which they brought with them.'
This was, of course, Alexander Selkirk, who was brought off the island
on February 12, 1709; and this log, or the coffee-house gossip anent
it, probably furnished the inspiration for 'Robinson Crusoe,' which
Defoe published in 1719.
[Footnote 298: _The Scowrers._]
We have seen how the coffee-house keepers tried to advance their
beverages from 1_d._ to 1-1/2_d._ because of the rise in coffee; but
the effort was spasmodic, and did not last. They had a far better cry
in 1712, as we find in the _Daily Courant_ of August 8 in that year.
'These are to give Notice, That the Coffee Men by reason of the
present Taxes on Coffee, Tea, Paper, Candles, and Stamps on all
Newspapers, find themselves under a necessity of advancing some of
their Liquors to the prices following; viz, Coffee 2_d._ per dish:
Green Tea 3 halfpence; and all Drams 2_d._ per Dram: to commence from
this day.' Let us hope when they got this huge advance they made their
tea stronger, and did not give their customers 'that pall'd Stuff too
often found in mean Coffee Houses.'[299]
[Footnote 299: Motteux, in the Preface to his _Poem in
Praise of Tea_.]
No doubt, from the familiar abbreviations, such as Tom's, Ned's,
Will's, John's, etc., some of the coffee-houses were kept by waiters
who had saved a little money--such an one as '_Tom_ the Tyrant; who,
as first Minister of the Coffee House, takes the Government upon him
between the Hours of Eleven and Twelve at night, and gives his Orders
in the most Arbitrary manner to the Servants below him as to the
Disposition of Liquors, Coal and Cinders;'[300] while Kidney, the
waiter at the St. James's Coffee House, immortalised in the _Tatler_
as having 'the ear of the greatest politicians that come hither,'
could not be spoken with 'without clean linen.'
[Footnote 300: _Spectator_, No. 49.]
The chocolate-houses seem to have been a specialty, and they were few
in number. In the commencement of the reign, in 1702, chocolate was
sold at 12_d._ the quart, 2_d._ the dish. I can only find the names of
five chocolate-houses (describing themselves as such), and but two of
them are of any note, White's and the Cocoa Tree. White's was started
in 1698, and was, in Queen Anne's reign, situated five doors from the
bottom of the west side of St. James's Street, ascending from St.
James's Palace. It had a small garden attached to it. This house was
burnt down in 1733, the King and Prince of Wales looking on. Hogarth
has immortalised this event in Plate 6 of the 'Rake's Progress.' It
was to all intents and purposes a gambling house. When White died is
not known, but _Mrs._ White had it in March 1712. Afterwards it passed
into the hands of Arthur, who had it when it was burnt down; and he
removed next door to the St. James's Coffee House. It soon ceased to
be a chocolate-house, and became a club. In 1755 it was removed to No.
38, on the opposite or east side of St. James's Street. White's Club
is supposed to be political; but, apart from its members being
Conservative, it takes no leading part, contenting itself with being
extremely aristocratic.
The Cocoa Tree Chocolate House stood at the end of Pall Mall, on the
site of what now is 87 St. James's Street. It was a Tory house;
indeed, Defoe says, 'A Whig will no more go to the Cocoa Tree or
Ozinda's, than a Tory will be seen at the Coffee house of St.
James's.' The Cocoa Tree Club is now held at 64 St. James's Street.
As the coffee-houses occupied so prominent a part in the social
economy of the time, a very brief notice of some of the best known
will be of interest. Anderton's is still in Fleet Street, beloved of
Freemasons and literary men. Batson's, in Cornhill, was a famous
meeting-place for physicians. The Bay Tree still stands in St.
Swithin's Lane. Button's, which was opposite Tom's, in Russell Street,
Covent Garden, was a great resort of Addison's; and here contributions
to the _Guardian_ could be received. The lion's head which served as a
letter-box has been immortalised in that paper. It was in imitation of
the famous lion at Venice. The original is still in existence, but is
not always accessible to the curious. It was removed from Button's
when that coffee-house was taken down, and took refuge in the
Shakespeare's Head Tavern, Covent Garden. For a time it was placed in
the Bedford Coffee House, and was used as a letter box for
contributions to _The Inspector_. It returned to the Shakespeare's
Head in 1769, and remained there till 1804. It was then bought by
Charles Richardson, the proprietor of Richardson's Hotel, and at his
death it came into the possession of his son, who sold it to the Duke
of Bedford, and it is now preserved in Woburn Abbey.
Child's was in St. Paul's Churchyard, and was famous for its learned
frequenters. It was not far from the College of Physicians, which was
then in Warwick Lane, so doctors came there, and, chief among them,
Dr. Mead. Sir Hans Sloane and other members of the Royal Society
dropped in, and the house was a noted resort of clergymen--so much so,
that it is mentioned as such in the _Spectator_ (No. 609): 'For that a
young Divine, after his first Degree in the University, usually comes
hither only to shew himself, and on that Occasion is apt to think he
is but half equipp'd with a Gown and Cassock for his publick
Appearance, if he hath not the additional Ornament of a Scarf of the
first Magnitude to entitle him to the appellation of Doctor from his
Landlady, and the Boy at _Child's_.'
The Camisards was in St. Martin's Lane, and took its name from the
Camisars, who were French religious fanatics, who, being persecuted in
their own country, came over here in 1707. They claimed the gifts of
prophecy, and of working miracles. The sect soon died out. Dick's, in
Fleet Street, still stands, and was so called from its first
proprietor, Richard Turner, in 1680.
Garraway's is famous, and derived its name from its original
proprietor, Thomas Garway, a tobacconist and coffeeman, who had it in
the middle of the 17th century. He is said to have been the first to
retail tea. It was always a mercantile resort, and here were sold
wines, etc., by auction. The Grecian, in Devereux Court, Temple, was
chiefly visited by learned men; it was from this place that Steele, in
his scheme of the _Tatler_, said that all accounts of learning should
appear under the title of Grecian. It was not, however, because of
this proclivity that it obtained its classical name: it was kept by a
Greek named Constantine. Apart from its being naturally frequented by
the lawyers, the scientific _élite_ went there, as we gather from
Thoresby, June 12, 1712: 'Attended the Royal Society, where I found
Dr. Douglas dissecting a dolphin, lately caught in the Thames, where
were present the President, Sir Isaac Newton, both the Secretaries,
the two Professors from Oxford, Dr. Halley and Keil, with others,
whose company we afterwards enjoyed at the Grecian Coffee House.' The
Guildhall Coffee House still survives.
Jonathan's was essentially a stockjobbers' house, and was in Exchange
Alley, as was also Baker's, which had a similar _clientèle_. 'I have
been taken for a Merchant upon the _Exchange_ for above these Ten
Years, and sometimes pass for a _Jew_ in the assembly of Stock Jobbers
at Jonathan's,' writes Addison in the first number of the _Spectator_.
'Stock Jobbers busie at Jonathan's from Twelve to Three,' says Ward.
The St. James's was as thoroughly a Whig house as White's was Tory;
and 'Foreign and Domestic News you will have from St. James's Coffee
House' was part of the _Tatler_ programme. We have seen how Swift used
it, and how his letters used to be directed there; but what he wrote
to Stella was hardly the reason of his frequenting the house. He seems
to have got on very friendly terms with Elliot, the proprietor, rather
early in his London career, for he writes: 'I dined to day with poor
Lord Mountjoy, who is ill of the gout; and this evening I christened
our Coffeeman Elliot's child; where the rogue had a most noble supper,
and Steele and I sat among some scurvy company over a bowl of punch,
so that I am come home late, young woman, and cannot stay to write to
little rogues.'[301] The Jamaica is still in existence, although not
where it was in Anne's reign. It was then in Cornhill, 'by the Ship
and Castle.' The Jerusalem was then, as it used to be not so long
since, 'near Garraway's.'
[Footnote 301: _Journal to Stella_, Nov. 19, 1710.]
[Illustration: The Lion at Button's.
Servantur Magnis
Isti Cervicibus Ungues;
Non Nisi Delectâ Pascitur
Ille Ferâ.]
Lloyd's was then in Lombard Street, and indeed to this day, on Lloyd's
policies, is stated that this policy shall have the same effect as if
issued in Lombard Street. 'And it is agreed by us the Insurers, that
this Writing or Policy of Assurance shall be of as much Force and
Effect as the surest Writing or Policy of Assurance heretofore made in
_Lombard Street_, or in the _Royal Exchange_, or elsewhere in
_London_.' Both Steele[302] and Addison[303] mention this
coffee-house; and for mercantile purposes it shared, with the Marine
in Birchin Lane, the reputation of being the busiest. Here were sales
of wine and ships, and the latter business is still transacted there.
[Footnote 302: _Tatler_, 247.]
[Footnote 303: _Spectator_, 46.]
A curious custom obtained in this reign--that of selling goods,
notably wines, by 'the Candle.' Pepys notes it in his diary as being
new to him, so that it had not been long in vogue. Lloyd's and the
Marine Coffee Houses were the principal places where these singular
auctions were held.
When the custom died out I cannot learn, but probably it was during
the first quarter of this century. The latest account I can find of
its being practised is in _The Saturday Bristol Times and Mirror_ of
March 29, 1873. 'Sale by Candle. The practice of letting by inch of
Candle still prevails in the County of Dorset. At the annual letting
of the parish meadow of Broadway, near Weymouth, which occurred a few
weeks ago, an inch of candle was placed on a piece of board nine
inches square, and lighted by one of the parish officers. The biddings
were taken down by one of the parish officers, and the chance of
taking the meadow was open to all while the candle was burning. The
last bidder before the candle went out was the incoming tenant. This
year the candle was extinguished suddenly. The land, about two acres
in extent, was in 1624 presented to the poor by William Gould, the
object of the gift being to keep the poor from working on the
highways.' The custom, for aught I know, may still exist in some
out-of-the-way places.
Information on maritime matters was even then forwarded to Lloyd's
(although his _News_ was not published after Feb. 23, 1696, till
1726), as is shown by the following episode: '_London_, August 4th.
Yesterday Morning a Letter was sent by the Penny Post to Mr. Edward
Lloyd, Coffee man, in Lombard Street; which letter was subscrib'd Jo.
Browne, was dated from on Board the Little St. Lewis off Bantry Bay in
Ireland. July. 22. and contain'd in Substance, That the said Browne
coming in a Vessel of which he was Master, from the Bay of Campeachy
for Ireland, was taken by the said little St. Lewis, a French Frigate
of 30 Guns, the 14th of July.'[304] He then went on circumstantially
to relate how an officer on board had told him that the French had
taken the Island of St. Helena and fifteen English East India ships;
and that their fleet intended to sail for the Cape, to intercept our
outward-bound East India ships. The editorial comment on this news is:
''Tis very probable this Letter is a Forgery, but as we cannot
possibly determine whether it be or not, and the Story having made a
great Noise in Town, we found ourselves oblig'd to give an Account of
it.' It turned out a hoax, for, next day, Lloyd received a letter
saying that the rumour had served its turn. 'To which Mr. Lloyd thinks
fit to Answer. Sir, Whoever you are that wrote these two letters to
Mr. Lloyd, he makes it his Request to you, that you would please to
Confirm your Willingness to take off the Amusement made by the first,
by writing him a third Letter in the same Hand the first was, which
the second is not.' Lloyd died on Feb. 15, 1713.
[Footnote 304: _Daily Courant_, Aug. 4, 1704.]
There were several coffee-houses kept by persons of the name of Man.
There was Old Man's, Young Man's, Man's New Coffee House, Charing
Cross, Man's in Birchin Lane, and Man's in Chancery Lane, opposite
Lincoln's Inn Gate. Old Man's was in the Tilt Yard, Whitehall, and was
the rendezvous for officers in the army. The Paymaster-General's
office is now built upon its site. It was kept by the well-known Jenny
Man, whom Brown describes as 'pledging an Irish Colonel in
Usquebaugh.' The _Postboy_, June 3/5, 1712, notices her: 'Expect
something Extraordinary[305] in our Next. In the mean time, we are
inform'd, that Jenny -- Man is indispos'd'; and in the _Flying Post_,
Nov. 6/8, 1712, is a song, one verse of which refers to her:--
[Footnote 305: News of the peace.]
Alas! alas! for _Jenny Man_,
'Cause she don't love the Warming Pan,[306]
High Church will all her Actions Scan
Since she was an Inch long, Sirs;
She is no Friend to Right Divine,
Therefore she must not sell French Wine,
But Tea and Coffee, very fine,
And sure that is no Wrong, Sirs.
[Footnote 306: An allusion to the story of the Pretender's
being smuggled in a warming-pan, and evidence of Jenny's
Hanoverian proclivities.]
Young Man's was at Charing Cross, and was a fashionable lounge. It was
also a gambling house, for Brown says of it: '_Young Man's Coffee
House_ threw it self in my way, and very kindly offer'd its
Protection. I acquiesced then, knowing myself secure from more Dangers
than one, and immediately upon my entrance mounted the Stairs, and
mingled my Person with the Knights of the Round Table, who hazard
three Months Revenue at a single Cast.' Ward is disgusted with the
superfine air of the place, and says of its frequenters, 'their whole
Exercise being to Charge and Discharge their Nostrils; and keep the
Curles of their Periwigs in proper Order.... They made a Humming, like
so many Hornets in a Country Chimney, not with their talking, but with
their Whispering over their New _Minuets_ and _Bories_, with their
Hands in their Pockets, if freed from their Snush Box.... Amongst them
were abundance of Officers, or Men who by their Habit appear'd to be
such; but look'd as tenderly, as if they Carried their Down beds with
them into the Camp, and did not dare to come out of their Tents, in a
cold morning, till they had Eat a Mess of Plum Panada for Breakfast,
to defend their Stomachs from the Wind.... Having sat all this while
looking about us, like a Couple of _Minerva's_ Birds, among so many
Juno's Peacocks, admiring their Gaiety; we began to be thoughtful of
a Pipe of Tobacco, which we were not assur'd we could have the liberty
of Smoaking, lest we should offend those Sweet Breath Gentlemen. But,
however, we Ventur'd to call for some Instruments of Evaporation,
which were accordingly brought us, but with such a Kind of
unwillingness, as if they would much rather have been rid of our
Company; for their Tables were so very Neat, and Shin'd with Rubbing,
like the Upper Leathers of an Alderman's shoes. The floor as clean
Swept, as a Sir _Courtly's_ Dining Room, which made us look round, to
see if there were no Orders hung up to impose the Forfeiture of so
much _Mop Money_ upon any Person that should spit out of the Chimney
Corner.'
Nando's was in Fleet Street, at the corner of Inner Temple Gate, the
house wrongly described as being formerly the palace of Cardinal
Wolsey, and now a hairdresser's. It was not particularly famous for
anything in Anne's time, only the name is familiar to students of that
epoch, as being next door to the shop of Bernard Lintot the
bookseller, and mentioned by him in all his advertisements.
Ozinda's was in St. James's Street, and ranked with White's as a Tory
house. Robin's was in Exchange Alley. Swift dated some of his letters
to Stella from this coffee-house, and Steele mentions it as a Stock
Exchange house in the _Spectator_, No. 454. The Rainbow in Fleet
Street is still in existence, and Ward[307] classes it thus: 'Coffee
and Water Gruel to be had at the Rainbow and Nando's at Four.' It
seems to have been a favourite sign, for I have seven on my list.
[Footnote 307: _Comical View of London._]
Squire's was in Fulwood's (now called Fuller's) Rents in Holborn, and
has been rendered historical by Addison, who makes Sir Roger ask
him[308] 'if I would smoak a Pipe with him over a Dish of Coffee at
Squire's. As I love the old Man, I take delight in complying with
everything that is agreeable to him, and accordingly waited on him to
the Coffee House, where his venerable Figure drew upon us the Eyes of
the whole Room. He had no sooner seated himself at the upper End of
the high Table, but he called for a clean Pipe, a Paper of Tobacco, a
Dish of Coffee, a Wax Candle, and the _Supplement_ with such an Air of
Cheerfulness and Goodhumour, that all the Boys in the Coffee room (who
seemed to take pleasure in serving him) were at once employed on his
several Errands, insomuch that no Body else could come at a Dish of
Tea till the knight had got all his Conveniencies about him.' Squire
died in 1717.
[Footnote 308: _Spectator_, No. 269.]
The following note on the Smyrna Coffee House is the best description
possible to give of it.[309] 'This is to give notice to all ingenious
gentlemen in and about the cities of London and Westminster, who have
a mind to be instructed in the noble Sciences of Music, Poetry, and
Politics, that they repair to the Smyrna Coffee in Pall Mall, betwixt
the hours of eight and ten at night, where they may be instructed
gratis, with elaborate ESSAYS _by word of mouth_ on all, or any of the
above mentioned Arts. The disciples are to prepare their bodies with
three dishes of bohea, and purge their brains with two pinches of
snuff. If any young student gives indication of parts, by listening
attentively, or asking a pertinent question, one of the professors
shall distinguish him by taking snuff out of his box in the presence
of the whole audience--
[Footnote 309: _Tatler_, 78.]
'N.B. The seat of learning is now removed from the corner of the
chimney on the left hand towards the window, to the round table in the
middle of the floor over against the fire; a revolution much lamented
by the porters and chairmen, who were much edified through a pane of
glass that remained broken all the last summer.'
John Salter's (or, as he was christened by Steele, or Rear Admiral Sir
John Munden, 'Don Saltero') was situated in the middle of Cheyne Walk,
Chelsea. He was originally a servant to Sir Hans Sloane, and, when he
left his service to set up as barber and coffee-house keeper, Sir Hans
gave him some odds and ends from his Museum. Other kind friends
followed, and Don Saltero's became a place of note, the curiosities,
natural and otherwise, taking up much of the space. Indeed, Steele, in
recording a visit to the Don's, says,[310] 'When I came into the
Coffee house, I had not time to salute the Company, before my eye was
diverted by ten thousand jimcracks round the room and on the ceiling.'
The first catalogue of his curiosities that he published, was in 1729,
and in the preface he says, 'The first Donor was the Honourable Sir
John Cope, bart., to whom and Family I am much obliged for several
very valuable pieces, both of Nature and Art.' The list comprises 249
articles, which in the 12th edition, 1741, was increased to 420, so
that, probably, in Anne's time there were not more than a couple of
hundred. Apart from the natural curiosities, which were numerous, were
many undoubtedly spurious, as '(2) Painted Ribbands from Jerusalem
with the Pillar, to which our Saviour was tied when scourged, with a
Motto on each.' '(40) The Queen of Sheba's Fan.' He seems to have
invested largely in this royal lady's property, for we have '(53)
Queen of Sheba's Cordial Bottle,' and '(55) The Queen of Sheba's Milk
Maid's Hat.' No. 56 was 'Pontius Pilate's Wife's Chambermaid's
Sister's Sister's Hat'--a relic which, Steele declares, was made
within three miles of Bedford.
[Footnote 310: _Tatler_, No. 34.]
These rather detract from the possible authenticity of the historical
relics, which were numerous, and, if genuine, were curious and
valuable. '(15) A Wooden Shoe put under the Speaker's Chair in K.
James IId's Time.' '(37) Gustavus Adolphus's Gloves.' '(38) Harry
VIIIth's Coat of Mail.' '(39) Queen Elizabeth's Stirrup.' '(41)
Katherine Q. Dowager's Coronation Shoes.' '(42) King Charles IId's
Band, which he wore in Disguise in the Royal Oak.' '(43) William the
Conqueror's Flaming Sword.' '(44) Oliver's Sword.' '(45) King James
IId's Coronation Shoes.' '(46) King William the IIId's Coronation
Sword.' '(47) King William's Coronation Shoes.' '(49) Queen Anne's
Testament.' '(50) Henry the VIIIth's Gloves.' '(51) The Czar of
Moscow's Gloves;' and last but not least--an undeniable forgery,
'(242) Robinson Crusoe's and his Man Friday's Shirts.'
Steele describes the Don as 'a sage of a thin and meagre countenance;
which aspect made me doubt whether reading or fretting had made it so
philosophic; but I very soon perceived him to be of that sect which
the ancients call _Gingivistæ_; in our language, tooth drawers.'
Besides shaving and tooth drawing, he played on the violin: 'if he
would wholly give himself up to the string, instead of playing twenty
beginnings to tunes, he might, before he dies, play _Roger de
Caubly_[311] quite out. I heard him go through his whole round, and
indeed he does play the "Merry Christ Church Bells"[312] pretty
justly;' and another authority says, 'There was no passing his house,
if he was at home, without having one's ears grated with the sounds of
his fiddle, on which he scraped most execrably.' Steele recommends
some of his curiosities to be taken away, 'or else he may expect to
have his letters patent for making punch superseded, be debarred
wearing his Muff next winter, or ever coming to London without his
wife.' Either of these would have punished Saltero severely, for he
was known out of doors by his old grey muff, which he carried up to
his nose; and Mrs. S. had a temper of her own, to escape which the Don
sometimes slipped off to London by himself. His collection seems to
have dwindled away, for when it was sold in 1799 there were only 121
lots, and the whole seem to have sold for a little over 50_l._
[Footnote 311: See Appendix.]
[Footnote 312: See Appendix.]
Slaughter's Coffee House in St. Martin's Lane afterwards superseded
Old Man's as a military meeting-place, and in the latter half of the
century it was frequented by artists and sculptors. Searle's, or
Serle's, was a legal coffee-house, and was situated at the corner of
Lincoln's Inn Fields. Of Tom's--I have a list of six--perhaps the best
known was that in St. Martin's Lane, where, as we have seen, was one
of the first insurance offices. The Virginia, which was in St.
Michael's Alley, and afterwards in Cornhill, has disappeared within
the last few years.
'All accounts of POETRY, under Will's Coffee House,' says the
_Tatler_; it was situated No. 1 Bow Street, at the corner of Russell
Street, and took its name from its proprietor, William Urwin. If Ward
can be trusted, gamblers as well as wits frequented it, for he
says[313] there was 'great shaking of the Elbow at _Will's_ about
Ten.' Still it was, _par excellence_, the _Wits_ coffee-house, a class
who are very happily described by a contemporary writer:[314] 'All
their words go for Jests, and all their Jests for nothing. They are
quick in the Fancy of some ridiculous Thing, and reasonable good in
the Expression. Nothing stops a Jest when it is coming; and they had
rather lose their Friend than their Wit.' And they are also written of
as being 'Conceited, if they had but once the Honour to dip a finger
and thumb in Mr. D----'s[315] snush box, it was enough to inspire 'em
with a true Genius of Poetry, and make 'em write Verse, as fast as a
Taylor takes his stitches.' In fact, it was on Dryden's reputation
that Will's coffee-house was then living; and his going there is
noticed by Pepys, 'Feb. 3, 1664--In Covent Garden to-night, going to
fetch my wife, I stopped at the great Coffee house there, where I
never was before: where Dryden, the poet, I knew at Cambridge, and all
the wits of the town, and Harris the player, and Mr. Hoole, of our
College. And, had I time then, or could at other times, it will be
good coming thither, for there, I perceive, is very witty and pleasant
discourse. But I could not tarry, and, as it was late, they were all
ready to go away.' Here also Pope saw the old man, whom he described
as 'a plump man with a down look, and not very conversible.'
[Footnote 313: _A Comical View of London and Westminster._]
[Footnote 314: _Hickelty Pickelty._]
[Footnote 315: Dryden's.]
Such, then, were some of the principal coffee-houses. What were the
taverns like? There were then no hotels proper, such as we know them:
a man had to live in private apartments, and, when he wanted dinner,
he had to betake himself to a tavern, or ordinary. As Misson remarks,
'At London they hardly so much as know what an _Auberge_ is: There are
indeed a thousand and a thousand Taverns, where you may have what you
please got for you.' A tavern was a far more free-and-easy place than
a coffee-house--in fact, it is a question whether the _convenances_ of
a coffee-house would admit of a man 'washing his teeth at a tavern
window in Pall Mall';[316] indeed, the keeping of them was hardly
considered reputable, for we find[317] that 'Her Majestie sign'd a
warrant for continuing the salaries of the prince's servants during
her life, provided they kept no publick houses.'
[Footnote 316: _Tatler_, 11.]
[Footnote 317: _Luttrell_, Jan. 1, 1709.]
Ward describes[318] the freedom and jollity of these places:
'Accordingly we stept in, and in the Kitchen found half a dozen of my
Friends Associates, in the height of their Jollitry, as Merry as so
many _Cantabridgians_ at _Sturbridge Fair_, or _Coblers_ at a
_Crispins Feast_. After a Friendly Salutation, free from all Foppish
Ceremonies, down we sat; and when a Glass or two round had given fresh
Motion to our drowsy Spirits, and abandon'd all those careful thoughts
which makes Man's Life uneasie, Wit begot Wit, and Wine a Thirsty
Appetite to each Succeeding Glass. Then open were our Hearts and
unconfined our Fancies; my Friend and I contributed our Mites to add
to the Treasure of our Felicity. _Songs_ and _Catches_ Crown'd the
Night, and each Man in his Turn pleased his Ears with his own
Harmony.'
[Footnote 318: _London Spy._]
[Illustration: A Tavern Scene.]
The most singular thing was, that it was not at all derogatory for a
nobleman or gentleman to go to a tavern for a carouse--and all clubs
were held at taverns. Thoresby relates that, after his reception by
the Queen, as one of a deputation from Leeds, on July 2, 1712, 'We
left the Duke there, but returned in the High Sheriff's coach to Sir
Arthur Kaye's, who, with Sir Bryan Stapleton, accompanied us; from Sir
Arthur's we went to the Tavern to drink her Majesty's health, and
stayed full late.' And Swift writes to Stella:[319] 'After dinner we
went to a blind tavern, where Congreve, Sir Richard Temple, Eastcourt,
and Charles Main were over a bowl of bad punch. The Knight sent for
six flasks of his own wine for me, and we staid till twelve.' This
sending for one's own wine was a peculiar arrangement, but doubtless
the landlord was satisfied with a premium on 'corkage.' Swift
frequently speaks of this custom: 'To-day I dined with Lewis and Prior
at an eating house, but with Lewis's wine.' 'I dined in a Coffee house
with Stratford upon Chops, and some of his Wine.' Again he was with
Lords Harley and Dupplin, the son and son-in-law of the Earl of
Oxford--and 'we were forced to go to a tavern, and send for wine from
Lord Treasurer's.'
[Footnote 319: _Journal_, Oct. 27, 1710.]
But the frequenters of taverns were not all so respectable as these
examples; and Brown supplies particulars of another section of
society. 'A _Tavern_ is a little _Sodom_, where as many Vices are
daily practised, as ever were known in the great one; Thither
_Libertines_ repair to drink away their Brains, _Aldermen_ to talk
Treason, and bewail the loss of Trade; _Saints_ to elevate the Spirit,
hatch Calumnies, coin false News, and reproach the Church; _Gamesters_
to shake their Elbows; Thither _Sober Knaves_ walk with _Drunken
Fools_ to make Cunning Bargains and overreach them in their Dealings;
Thither _Young Quality_ retire to spend their Tradesmens Money;
Thither _Bullies_ Coach it to Kick Drawers, and invent new Oaths and
Curses; Thither run _Sots_ purely to be drunk, _Beaux_ to shew their
Vanity, _Cowards_ to make themselves valiant by the Strength of their
Wine, _Fools_ to make themselves witty in their own Conceits, and
_Spendthrifts_ to be made Miserable by a Ridiculous Consumption of
their own Fortunes.'
There were lower depths yet: there were the _purl houses_, where
'Tradesmen flock in their Morning gowns, by Seven, to cool their
Plucks,' and the _mug houses_,[320] which in George the First's time
were made into political clubs. 'King George for Ever' was then the
mug-house cry, which the coffee-houses countered with 'High Church and
Ormonde; no Presbyterians; no Hanover; down with the Mug.'
[Footnote 320: 'Here is nothing drunk but Ale, and every
Gentleman hath his separate Mug, which he Chalks on the
Table, where he sits, as it is brought in; and every one
retires when he pleases, as from a Coffee House.'--_A
Journey through England_, 1722.]
The following is a list of the principal taverns then in existence,
for some of which I am indebted to Timbs' 'Club Life of London.' 'The
Bear,' at the foot of London Bridge, Southwark and west side, which
was in existence in 1463, was not pulled down till 1761. The 'Boar's
Head,' in Eastcheap; Pontack's, in Abchurch Lane; and the 'Pope's
Head' tavern in Pope's Head Alley, were all standing; and the 'Cock,'
in Threadneedle Street, was only destroyed in 1851. There was the
'Salutation' in Newgate Street, where Wren used to smoke his pipe,
whilst St. Paul's was rebuilding. Dolly's chop-house, in Paternoster
Row, was established in Queen Anne's reign. The 'White Hart' in
Bishopsgate Without, which bore the date 1480, was not pulled down
till 1829. The 'King's Head,' in Fenchurch Street, at the corner of
Mark Lane, was the hostel at which Queen Elizabeth is _said_ to have
dined in May 1554. The 'Devil,' in Fleet Street, now occupied by
Childs' bank, was flourishing, and Steele describes it[321] as 'a
place sacred to mirth tempered with discretion, where Ben Jonson and
his Sons used to make their liberal meetings,' and he says that in the
Apollo room were the rules of Ben's Club, painted in gold letters over
the chimney piece.
[Footnote 321: _Tatler_, 79.]
This tavern was so popular that a rival sprang up on the other side of
the street, the 'Young Devil,' and here, for a year or so, from the
beginning of 1708, till some time in or about 1709, the Society of
Antiquaries held their meetings, afterwards at the 'Fountain' tavern,
Inner Temple Gate. The 'Cock,' in Fleet Street, has only just been
demolished. There was another famous tavern which was near St.
Dunstan's Church, in Fleet Street, called 'The Hercules' Pillars,'
which was visited by Pepys, as appears by four entries in his diary.
Another tavern of this name, at Charing Cross, will be noted when
treating of the amusements of the people. The 'Mitre' tavern must not
be confounded with the coffee-house of that name in Mitre Court, but
was the one frequented by Dr. Johnson, and so often referred to by
Boswell.
The 'Palsgrave's Head,' on the south side of the Strand, near Temple
Bar, was then a coffee-house, and was so named from the Palsgrave
Frederick, afterwards King of Bohemia, who married the Princess
Elizabeth, daughter of James I. The 'Crown and Anchor,' which
stretched along the Strand from Arundel Street to Milford Lane, was
famous as being the place where the Academy of Music was instituted in
1710. The 'Rose' tavern in Drury Lane is frequently mentioned in the
literature of this time. It was afterwards absorbed into Drury Lane
Theatre, when Garrick enlarged it in 1776. The 'Rummer Tavern,' at
Charing Cross, near Locket's Ordinary, is often mentioned in
advertisements, and Brown and Ward speak of 'Heaven' and 'Hell,' which
were two ale-houses near Westminster Hall. Pepys notices one of them
on January 28, 1660--'And so I returned, and went to Heaven, where
Ludlin and I dined.' And last, not least, was the 'Bumper' tavern,
which 'Dick Estcourt,' the actor, opened on January 1, 1712, and
which Steele so kindly puffed in _Spectator_ No. 264. An exhaustive
catalogue of the taverns in the City is given by Ward in his 'Vade
Mecum for Maltworms,' a very curious and now rare book; but it is
hardly worth while to reproduce their names, even in an appendix.
CHAPTER XIX.
CLUBS.
Origin -- October Club -- Calves Head Club -- Kit Cat Club --
Other clubs -- Suggested clubs.
The name of Club is undoubtedly taken from the practice of a jovial
company to 'club,' or divide the whole expenses of the entertainment;
and 'the payment of our Clubs'[322] is a frequently mentioned wind-up
of any festivity. Naturally, such agreeable meetings were repeated
until they became habitual, and the society, or _club_, was formed;
and these humble beginnings laid the foundation of that great social
organisation which nowhere flourishes better than in England.
[Footnote 322: _London Spy._]
The principal clubs of Queen Anne's time were the October Club, the
Calves Head Club, and the Kit Cat Club. The October Club was a
Political Club, of high Tory proclivities, and it was so called from
the 'October Ale' which was supposed to be the drink of the members.
It was held at the 'Bell Tavern,' in King Street, Westminster, and
they succeeded in plaguing the Whigs to their hearts' content. Swift
writes Stella of them:[323] 'We are plagued here with an October Club;
that is, a set of above a hundred Parliament men of the Country, who
drink October beer at home, and meet every evening at a tavern near
the Parliament, to consult affairs, and drive things on to extremes
against the Whigs, to call the old ministry to account, and get off
five or six heads. The ministry seem not to regard them, yet one of
them in confidence, told me that there must be something thought on to
settle things better.' Swift wrote a little pamphlet called 'Some
Advice Humbly Offered to the Members of the October Club, in a letter
from a Person of Honour,' which met with varying fortunes; for he
tells Stella, 'The little twopenny letter of "Advice to the October
Club," does not sell: I know the reason; for it is finely written, I
assure you; and like a true author, I grow fond of it, because it does
not sell: you know that it is usual to writers to condemn the judgment
of the world; if I had hinted it to be mine, every body would have
bought it, but it is a great secret.'[324] A few days later, and he
writes, February 1, that it 'begins now to sell; but I believe its
fame will hardly reach Ireland.' There is no doubt but that it
partially had the desired effect--of making these troublesome
gentlemen less obstructive. Poor Swift was once nearly getting into a
dilemma with regard to this club, and his story is as follows: 'Then
Ford drew me to dine at a tavern, it happened to be the day and the
house where the October Club dine. After we had dined, coming down, we
called to inquire, whether our yarn business had been over that day,
and I sent into the room for Sir George Beaumont. But I had like to be
drawn into a difficulty; for in two minutes out comes Mr. Finch, Lord
Guernsey's son, to let me know, that my Lord Compton, the steward of
this feast, desired, in the name of the club, that I would do them the
honour to dine with them. I sent my excuses, adorned with about thirty
compliments, and got off as fast as I could. It would have been a most
improper thing for me to dine there, considering my friendship for the
Ministry. The Club is about a hundred and fifty, and near eighty of
them were then going to dinner at two long tables in a great ground
room.'[325] Afterwards the October Club was split, and the more
Jacobite portion formed themselves into the March Club.
[Footnote 323: _Journal_, Feb. 18, 1711.]
[Footnote 324: _Journal_, Jan. 28, 1712.]
[Footnote 325: _Journal_, April 13, 1714.]
The Calves Head Club was decidedly an opposition one, and its history,
true or not, is told in a little book which some people have
attributed to Ward,[326] 'The SECRET HISTORY of the CALVES HEAD CLUB:
or, the REPUBLICAN UNMASK'D. Wherein is fully shewn the religion of
the CALVES HEAD Heroes in their Anniversary Thanksgiving Songs on the
Thirtieth of _January_, by them called Anthems, for the years 1693,
1694, 1695, 1696, 1697. NOW PUBLISHED to demonstrate the Restless,
Implacable Spirit of a certain Party still among us, who are never to
be satisfied till the present Establishment in Church and State is
subverted. The Second Edition.
[Footnote 326: _Brit. Mus._ 1093, c. 73.]
_Discite justitiam moniti, & non temnere Divos._ Virg.
* * * * *
London.
Printed, And Sold by the Booksellers of _London_ and
_Westminster_. 1703.'
The author tells the history of the club as follows: 'Happening in the
late Reign to be in the Company of a certain active Whigg, who in all
other Respects was a Man of probity enough; he assured me, that to his
Knowledge, 'twas true, That he knew most of the Members of that Club,
and that he had been often invited to their Meetings, but that he had
always avoided them: Adding, that according to the Principles he was
bred up in, he wou'd have made no scruple to have met _Charles_ the
First, in the Field, and oppos'd him to the utmost of his Power; but
that since he was Dead, he had no further Quarrel to him, and looked
upon it as a cowardly piece of Villany, below any Man of Honour, to
insult upon a Memory of a Prince, who had suffer'd enough in his Life
Time.
'He farther told me, that _Milton_, and some other Creatures of the
Commonwealth, had instituted this Club, as he was inform'd, in
Opposition to Bp. _Juxon_, Dr. _Sanderson_, Dr. _Hammond_, and other
Divines of the Church of England, who met privately every 30th of
_January_; and, tho' it was under the Time of the Usurpation, had
compil'd a private Form of Service for the Day, not much different
from that we now find in the Liturgy....
'By another Gentleman, who, about Eight Years ago, went out of meer
Curiosity to see their Club, and has since furnish'd me with the
following Papers; I was inform'd that it was kept in no fix'd House,
but that they remov'd as they saw convenient; that the place they met
in when he was with 'em, was a blind Ally, about _Morefields_;[327]
that the Company wholly consisted of _Independents_ and _Anabaptists_
(I am glad for the Honour of the _Presbyterians_ to set down this
Remark); that the Famous _Jerry White_, formerly Chaplain to _Oliver
Cromwell_, who, no doubt on't, came to sanctify with his Pious
Exhortations, the Ribbaldry of the Day, said Grace; that after the
Table Cloth was removed, the Anniversary _Anthem_, as they impiously
call'd it, was sung, and a Calves Scull filled with Wine or other
Liquor, and then a Brimmer went about to the Pious Memory of those
worthy Patriots that had kill'd the Tyrant, and deliver'd their
Country from his Arbitrary Sway; and lastly, a Collection made for the
Mercenary Scribler, to which every Man contributed according to his
Zeal for the Cause, or the Ability of his Purse.'
[Footnote 327: In the ninth ed., 1714, after 'Morefields' it
goes on: 'Where an Axe hung up in the _Club Room_, and was
reverenced as a principal Symbol in this Diabolical
Sacrament. Their Bill of Fare was a large Dish of
_Calves-Heads_, dressed several ways, by which they
represented the King and his Friends, who had suffer'd in
his Cause; a large _Pike_ with a small one in his Mouth, as
an Emblem of Tyranny; a large _Cod's Head_, by which they
pretended to represent the Person of the King singly; a
_Boar's Head_ with an Apple in its Mouth, to represent the
King, by this, as Beastial, as by their other Hieroglyphicks
they had done Foolish and Tyrannical. After the Repast was
over, one of their Elders presented an _Ikon Basilike_,
which was with great Solemnity burn'd upon the Table, whilst
the _Anthems_ were singing. After this, another produc'd
_Milton's Defensio Populi Anglicani_, upon which all laid
their Hands, and made a Protestation in the form of an Oath,
for ever to stand by, and maintain the same;' then the text
goes on as above.]
The following 'Anthem,' if not the most refined of the series, is, at
least, the most spirited and characteristic:--
_An Anthem on the 30th of_ January 1696.
There was a King of _Scottish_ Race, a Man of Muckle might a,
Was never seen in Battels Great, but greatly he would sh---- a;
This K. begot another K. which made the Nation sad a,
Was of the same Religion, an Atheist like his Dad a:
This Monarch wore a Picked Beard, and seem'd a Doughty Hero,
As _Dioclesian_ Innocent, and Merciful as _Nero_.
The Churches darling Implement, but Scourge of all the People,
He Swore he'd make each Mother's Son Adore their Idol Steeple:
But they perceiving his designs, grew plagy shy and jealous,
☞ And timely Choppt his _Calve's_ head off, and sent him to his
fellows.
Old _Rowly_ did succeed his Dad, such a King was never seen a,
He'd lye with every nasty Drab, but seldom with his Queen a.
His Dogs at Council Board wou'd sit, like Judges in their Furs a,
'Twas hard to say which had most Wit, the Monarch or his Curs a.
At last he died, we know not how, but most think by his Brother,
His Soul to Royal _Tophet_ went to see his Dad and Mother.
The furious _James_ Usurp'd the Throne, to pull Religion down a;
But by his Wife and Priest undone, he quickly lost his Crown a.
To _France_ the wand'ring Monarch's trudg'd, in hopes relief to find a,
Which he is like to have from thence, even when the D----'s blind a.
Oh! how shou'd we Rejoyce and Pray, and never cease to Sing a,
☞ If _Bishops_ too were Chac'd away, and Banished with their _King_ a:
Then Peace and Plenty wou'd ensue, our Bellies wou'd be full a,
The enliven'd Isle wou'd Laugh and Smile, as in the days of _Noll_ a.
Whether this 'Secret History' be true or not, it would almost appear
that there was a Calves Head Club in George the Second's reign, for in
the _Monthly Intelligencer_, which was a portion of the _Gentleman's
Magazine_, we find[328]: 'Friday, January 30, 1735. Some young
Noblemen and Gentlemen met in a Tavern in _Suffolk Street_,[329]
called themselves the _Calves Head Club_; dress'd up a Calfs Head in a
Napkin, and after some Huzzas threw it into a Bonfire, and dipt
Napkins in their red Wine, and wav'd them out at Window. The Mob had
strong beer given them, and for a time hallood as well as the best;
but taking Disgust at some Healths propos'd, grew so outragious, that
they broke all the Windows, and forc'd themselves into the House, but
the Guards being sent for, prevented further Mischief.' Different
accounts exist of this occurrence, variously modifying it, until they
end in a total denial; but engravings exist professing to give the
'True Effigies' of the scene. Apropos of this, in the 1714 edition of
the 'Secret History' is an engraving of 'the Westminster Calf's Head
Club,' which is none other than the representation of a coffee-house
already produced (see page 162), but altered somewhat to suit the
occasion. For instance, the _dame de comptoir_ is erased, and in her
place is a huge axe.
[Footnote 328: _Gent. Mag._ vol. v. p. 105.]
[Footnote 329: Charing Cross.]
Perhaps one of the now best-known clubs of Anne's time was the Kit
Cat, which derived its peculiar cognomen (so Addison says) 'from a
Mutton Pye.' Attempts have been made to attribute its origin to a
political gathering of Whig noblemen and gentlemen, but contemporary
authorities all agree that it was founded by Jacob Tonson, the
bookseller; and Sir R. Blackmore (a member of the club), who wrote a
poem called 'the Kitcats' in 1708, may be considered as knowing
something about what he wrote. Whether the pieman's name was
Christopher Cat, or Christopher, living at the sign of the Cat and
Fiddle, does not much matter: certain it is that the pies from which
the club was named were called Kit Cat's pies.
Various domiciles have been given to the club, but Sir R. Blackmore
says it was held at the Fountain in the Strand, a site now occupied by
the Cigar Divan, as is denoted by the name of Fountain Court.
On the fair _Strand_ by which with graceful Pride,
Unrival'd _Thamis_ rolls his alternate Tyde,
Between the Courts which most the People awe,
(In one the Monarch reigns, in one the Law.)
A Stately Building rear'd its lofty Head,
Which both the _Thames_ and _Town_ around survey'd.
Here crown'd with Clusters _Bacchus_ kept his Court,
Where mighty Vats his chearful Throne support;
High o'er the Gate he hung his waving Sign,
A _Fountain_ Red with ever-flowing Wine.
.............................................
One Night, in Seven, at this convenient Seat, }
Indulgent BOCAJ[330] did the Muses treat, }
Their Drink was generous Wine, and _Kit Cat's_ Pyes their Meat. }
Here he assembled his Poetic Tribe,
Past Labours to Reward, and new ones to prescribe;
Hence did th' Assembly's Title first arise,
And _Kit-Cat_ Wits sprung first from _Kit-Cat's_ Pyes.
BOCAJ the mighty Founder of the State }
Led by his Wisdom, or his happy Fate, }
Chose proper Pillars to support its Weight }
All the first Members for their Place were fit
Tho' not of Title, Men of Sense and Wit.
[Footnote 330: Jacob transposed.]
They showed they had sense at all events, for in the summer they went
into the fresh air, and held their meetings at the _Flask_ at
Hampstead.
Or when Apollo like, thou'rt pleas'd to lead }
Thy Sons to feast on _Hampstead's_ airy Head; }
_Hampstead_ that now in name _Parnassus_ shall exceed. }
Another proof, if it were needed, that Tonson was the founder of the
club, is that forty-two of its members presented him with their
portraits, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller, to adorn his house at Barn
Elms. As the room was not lofty enough to admit of their being the
regulation size, special canvases were had (36 × 28 in.), and this is
still called Kit Cat size. These portraits are still in existence, and
were all shown at the Art Treasures Exhibition at Manchester, and some
at the International Exhibition of 1862. This club was famous for the
toasts engraved on its drinking glasses, many of which have survived
to this day; and this gave rise to Dr. Arbuthnot's epigram--
Whence deathless Kit-Cat took his name,
Few Critics can unriddle:
Some say from pastry cook it came
And some from Cat and Fiddle.
From no trim beaus its name it boasts,
Grey statesmen or green wits,
But from this pell mell pack of toasts
Of old Cats and young Kits.
There were numerous social clubs, the Beefsteak, and the Saturday
Club, of which Swift makes frequent mention in his letters to Stella.
Take one instance[331]: 'I dined with lord-treasurer, and shall again
to-morrow, which is his day, when all the ministers dine with him. He
calls it whipping day. It is always on Saturday, and we do indeed
usually rally him about his faults on that day. I was of the original
club, when only poor Lord Rivers, lord keeper, and Lord Bolinbroke
came; but now Ormond, Anglesey, lord Steward, Dartmouth, and other
rabble intrude, and I scold at it; but now they pretend as good a
title as I; and, indeed, many Saturdays I am not there.[331]
He also belonged to a club or society for social converse and the
encouragement of literature, which was founded in the latter part of
the year 1712. Its meetings were on Thursday, and it was the custom of
the members to entertain their brethren in turns. He gave one dinner
at the Thatched House[332]: 'it will cost me five or six pounds; yet
the secretary says he will give me wine.' But they soon got
extravagant, for their very next dinner is noted[333] as 'The Duke of
Ormond's treat last week cost £20 though it was only four dishes, and
four without a dessert; and I bespoke it in order to be cheap;' and
this did not include wine. In this society, when money was raised for
a benevolent purpose, the members were assessed according to their
several estates: thus, the Duke of Ormond paid ten guineas, Swift half
a guinea.
[Footnote 331: _Journal to Stella_, Jan. 9, 1713.]
[Footnote 332: _Ibid._ Feb. 21, 1712.]
[Footnote 333: _Ibid._ March 5, 1712.]
Steele, in _Tatler_ No. 9, gives an amusing and graphic account of a
club, held at a tavern called the Trumpet, in Shire Lane; and, to show
how prevalent the establishment of clubs was in this reign, the
following are some suggested ones (of course only in fun) to be found
in the _Spectator_: The Amorous, Chit Chat, Everlasting, Fox hunters,
Fringe glove, Hebdomadal, Henpecked, Lazy, Lawyers, Mohock, Moving,
Rattling, The Romp, Sighing, Spectator's, Street, Twopenny, Ugly,
Widows; and the _Guardian_ supplies a list of supposed clubs of little
men, and the Short, Silent, Tall, and Terrible Clubs.
CHAPTER XX.
SIGHT-SEEING AND FAIRS
Royal visits to the City -- Lord Mayor's show -- The lions at the
Tower -- The Armoury -- Tombs at Westminster -- Bartholomew
Fair -- Description -- Shows -- Tight-rope dancing -- Natural
curiosities -- Theatrical performances, etc. -- Abolition -- May
Fair -- Lady Mary -- Pinkethman -- Shows -- Visit
to -- Abolition -- Southwark Fair -- Its shows.
But clubs were not the only social enjoyments. The populace had,
during this reign, many free sights--and the numerous visits of the
Queen to the City provided fine shows gratis. She dined at Guildhall
on the Lord Mayor's day after her accession, and she visited the City
again on November 12 the same year, accompanied by both Houses of
Parliament, to return thanks for the successes at Vigo. Certainly
January 19, 1704, was kept as a fast; but on September 7 of that year
the Queen again went to St. Paul's, in commemoration of the victory at
Blenheim and the capture of Gibraltar; and on January 3, 1705, the
standards[334] taken at Blenheim were carried, by a detachment of
horse and foot guards, from the Tower, and hung up in Westminster
Hall. On the 6th of the same month the Duke of Marlborough dined, by
invitation, with the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, at Goldsmiths' Hall.
Once more the Queen visited St. Paul's, on August 23, 1705, to return
thanks for the Duke's forcing the French lines in Brabant, and yet
again for the victory at Ramilies on June 27, 1706. This time, the
colours taken were deposited in the Guildhall, with great pomp, on
December 19, 1706: the Queen, and Prince George, going into St.
James's Park to see them pass. On this occasion the Duke dined with
the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, in Vintners' Hall. On December 30 of the
same year, the Queen gave thanks at St. Paul's for the successes of
the last campaign in Spain and Italy; and, as the newspaper account
informs us, 'the Night ended with Ringing of Bells, Bonfires,
Illuminations, and other Rejoycings.'
[Footnote 334: There was an engraving made of these
standards; and a handbill about it (_Harl. MSS._ 5996, 40)
is curious, as showing how they pushed trade then. 'The
Colours being only to be seen in _Westminster Hall_, several
Gentlemen and Others have desired to share in the
_Commemoration_ thereof, by placing the _Representation_ of
'em in their Halls and Houses: And now to accommodate those
who are so disposed, the said _Representation_ with the
_Imbellishments_ above mention'd, is done on fine _Imperial
Paper_, and will in a Day or Two be left at your house for
your Perusal, till call'd for next Day, when you are desired
either to return it, or be pleased to pay Two Shillings and
Sixpence to the Person that deliver'd the Same.']
Yet again was there another day of public rejoicing, on May 1, 1707,
to celebrate the union with Scotland, and the Queen once more visited
St. Paul's. But this was to be the last. On thanksgiving day, July 7,
1713, to celebrate the conclusion of peace, Anne was too unwell to
play her accustomed part, and was reluctantly compelled to abandon it
and remain at home. The fireworks on this occasion were splendid.
'Those in Smithfield began about Ten at Night, and ended about Eleven:
when those upon the Thames, over against Whitehall, began, and lasted
till after Midnight. Besides that these were in both Places Excellent
in their kind, they were play'd off with the utmost Regularity and
good Order; so that we have not heard of the least Mischief done
either upon the River or in Smithfield;' and, as was observed in the
_Guardian_, No. 103: 'In short, the artist did his part to admiration,
and was so encompassed with fire and smoke that one would have thought
nothing but a Salamander could have been safe in such a situation.'
But these seem to have been eclipsed by a display at Dublin in honour
of the Queen's last birthday, February 6, 1714, as is recorded in the
_Daily Courant_ of February 16, 1714.
The Londoner, too, had his Lord Mayor's Show, with its fun, perhaps
just a trifle rougher than in our day. Owing to the difference of old
and new style, Lord Mayor's day was on October 29 instead of November
9 as now. Ward naturally revels in it[335]: 'Tuesday 29. Windows in
_Cheapside_ stuck with more Faces at Ten, than the Balconies with
Candles on an Illumination Night. Wicked havock of Neats-Tongues and
Hamms in the Barges about Eleven. Artillery Men march by two and two,
burlesqued in Buft and Bandileers. The Vintners and Brewers, the
Butchers and Apothecaries justle about precedence; 'Tis pity they are
not incorporated. The Ladies pelted with dead Cats instead of Squibs
from Twelve to Three. Mob tumultuous. Boys starting to see that which,
as the Old Woman said, they must all come to one Day.' And in the
_London Spy_ he gives a very long account of the show, its pageants,
and the rough humour of the spectators.
[Footnote 335: _Comical View of London and Westminster._]
'I took three lads, who are under my Guardianship, a rambling, in a
hackney Coach, to shew them the town; as the lions, the tombs,
Bedlam.'[336] These were the three great sights of London: the lions
at the Tower, the tombs in Westminster Abbey, and the poor mad folk in
Bedlam. 'To see the lions' is proverbial, and these had to be visited
by every one new to the City. In 1703 there were four, two lions and
two lionesses--one with a cub. In this reign three of the lions died
almost at the same time, and it was looked upon by some as an event of
dire portent. Addison laughingly alludes to the popular idea of
something awful happening on the death of a 'Tower' lion, when, in the
_Freeholder_, he makes the Jacobite squire ask the keeper whether any
of the lions had fallen sick when Perth was taken, or on the flight of
the Pretender. When dead they were sometimes stuffed, as Ward relates.
He also says there was a leopard, three eagles, two owls, and a
hyena. That was in 1703; and Thoresby, writing in 1709, went to see
the 'lions, eagles, catamountains, leopards, &c.' He also relates[337]
his experiences of a visit to the Tower itself: 'Walked with Mr. Dale
to the Tower; was mightily pleased with the new and excellent method
the Records[338] are put into (of which see a letter of the Bishop of
Carlisle to me;) and viewed many great curiosities of that nature, and
original letters from foreign kings and potentates, upon parchment,
and paper as old (reckoned as great a rarity) to the Kings of England,
very ancient tallies, Jewish stars, &c., which the obliging Mr. Holms
showed me, who also gave me an autograph of Queen Elizabeth, that was
his own property; then went to view the several armouries, as that
more ancient of the weapons taken in the year 1588 from the pretended
Invincible Armada, and those modern from Vigo, and in other memorable
transactions of this age; the present armoury for use is put to a
surprising method, in the form of shields, pyramids, trophies, &c.
Some of the elder and later kings' armour are placed as though mounted
on horseback.'
[Footnote 336: _Tatler_, No. 30.]
[Footnote 337: _Diary_, Jan. 21, 1709.]
[Footnote 338: The records were kept in the Tower until the
present reign.]
Ward also visited the Tower, after seeing the lions, and has left a
most amusing account of what he saw, which is far too long for
transcription. He first noted 'a parcel of Bulky Wardens, in old
fashion'd Lac'd Jackets, and in Velvet Flat caps, hung round with
divers colour'd Ribbonds, like a Fool's hat upon a Holiday.' Indeed,
their costume was identical with their present state dress, only it
was utterly marred by their wearing portentous periwigs. Under the
guidance of one of these gentry he was shown Traitor's Gate, the White
Tower, and St. Peter's Church; and afterwards, the Grand Armoury,
where he was particularly delighted to see that 'at the corner of
every Lobby, and turning of the Stairs, stood a _Wooden Granadier_ as
Sentinel, painted in his proper Colours, cut out with much exactness
upon Board.' Arrived in the arsenal, he was handed over to one of the
armourer's men, who had 'everything as ready at his fingers' ends, as
the Fellow that shows the Tombs at Westminster. The first Figure at
our Coming in, that most effected the Eye, by reason of its bigness,
was a long Range of _Muskets_ and _Carbines_, that ran the length of
the _Armory_, which was distinguish'd by a Wilderness of Arms, whose
_Locks_ and _Barrels_ were kept in that admirable Order, that they
shone as bright as a Good Housewifes _Spits_ and _Pewter_ in the
_Christmas Holidays_, on each side of which were _Pistols_,
_Baggonets_, _Scimiters_, _Hangers_, _Cutlaces_, and the like
Configurated into _Shields_, _Triumphal Arches_, _Gates_,
_Pillasters_, _Scollopshells_, _Mullets_, _Fans_, _Snakes_,
_Serpents_, _Sun Beams_, _Gorgon's Heads_, the _Waves of the Ocean_,
_Stars_ and _Garters_, and in the middle of all, _Pillars_ of _Pikes_,
and turn'd _Pillars_ of _Pistols_; and at the end of the _Wilderness_,
fire Arms plac'd in the Order of a great _Organ_.' Coming thence, he
noticed the Tower rooks, as he called those men who asked 'Whether you
will see the Crown, the whole Regalia or the King's Marching Train of
Artillery?' He would have none of them, but went with a warder into
the armoury proper, where he 'View'd the Princely Scare crows, and he
told us to whom each Suit of Armour did belong Originally, adding some
short Memorandums out of History, to every empty Iron side; some True,
some False, supplying that with Invention, which he wanted in Memory.'
He would not see the Regalia, but got a description of it from the
warder, 'and so Cozened the Keeper of our Eighteen Pence a piece.' The
warder told them 'there was a Royal Crown, and a new one made for the
Coronation of the late Queen _Mary_, and three others wore by his
Majesty with Distinct Robes, upon several occasions; also the Salt
Spoons, Forks and Cups, us'd at the Coronation.' Altogether, a visit
to the Tower then very much resembled one nowadays.
As to the tombs at Westminster, what more do we want to know about
them, as they then were, than what is contained in _Spectator_ No. 26,
where Addison grumbles at Sir Cloudesley Shovel's monument, 'Instead
of the brave rough English Admiral, which was the distinguishing
Character of that plain gallant Man, he is represented on his Tomb, by
the Figure of a Beau, dress'd in a long Perriwig, and reposing himself
upon Velvet Cushions under a Canopy of State? 'And for all else in the
grand old abbey, have we not the lifelike description of Sir Roger's
visit?[339] how he saw Jacob's pillar, sat in the Coronation Chair,
handled Edward the Third's sword, and afterwards wanted the Spectator
to call on him 'at his Lodgings in _Norfolk Buildings_, and talk over
these Matters with him more at leisure.' It would be a literary
profanity to deal with them except in their entirety.
[Footnote 339: _Spectator._]
But the lions, the tombs, and Bedlam could never be sufficient
recreative pabulum for a large city, so there were outlets for the
exuberance of their spirits in the three fairs, Bartholomew, May fair,
and Southwark. Bartholomew fair stands pre-eminent, both for its
antiquity, its size, and length of duration. In Anne's time it was no
longer the great mart for cloth it used to be--and the fair was given
over to rioting and unlimited licence. This fair is a most congenial
subject for Ward's pen, and he gives it free range--too free, alas!
for many extracts. He describes the entrance to it as a '_Belfegor's_
Concert, the rumbling of _Drums_, mix'd with the intolerable Squalling
of _Cat Calls_ and _Penny Trumpets_,' so, to get out of the noise and
smell, prominent in which latter was 'the Singeing of Pigs, and burnt
Crackling of over Roasted Pork' (which was a specialty in the fair),
he turned into an ale house, where he had doctored beer, and was so
annoyed by a waiter, who would constantly inquire, 'Do you call,
sirs?' that he threatened to kick him downstairs. From this upper
room he could see the booths, and note the humours of the fair: the
mock finery of the actors, who were 'strutting round their Balconies
in their Tinsey Robes, and Golden Leather Buskins;' and the sorry
buffoonery of the Merry Andrews. Having rested, he sallied forth into
the fair, saw the rope-dancers, one of whom was a negress, who set a
countryman near Ward into fits of laughter, which he explained:
'Master, says he, I have oftentimes heard of the Devil upon two
Sticks, but never Zee it bevore in me Life. Bezide, Maister, who can
forbear Laughing to see the Devil going to Dance?' He speaks in high
terms of the German rope-dancer, of whom Lauron gives two portraits.
He then went into a booth to see 'a Dwarf _Comedy_, Sir-nam'd a
_Droll_,' but does not seem to have cared much about it. He and his
friend then refreshed themselves with 'a Quart of Fill-birds, and Eat
each of us two Penny worth of Burgamy Pears,' and witnessed another
performance. They then needed solid food, so determined to have a
quarter of a pig (sucking pig of course), and made their way to Pye
Corner, 'where Cooks stood dripping at their Doors, like their Roasted
Swine's Flesh,' but the total absence of cleanliness in the cookery
was so repulsive, that they had to forego the luxury.
After undergoing the certain penalty of having his handkerchief
stolen, he went to see another droll, the plot of which seems to have
been perfectly inexplicable, and he came to the conclusion that
'_Bartholomew Fair Drolls_ are like _State Fire Works_, they never do
any Body good, but those that are concern'd in the Show.' The wax-work
was then visited, and then they went to a music and dancing booth, in
which they not only had a most discordant instrumental concert, but
saw a woman 'Dance with Glasses full of Liquor upon the Backs of her
Hands, to which she gave Variety of Motions, without Spilling,' and a
youthful damsel perform a sword dance, which was succeeded by
'abundance of Insipid Stuff.' They got away, and passed by the
'Whirligigs,' went into a raffling shop, and the Groom Porter's, after
which he went to an alehouse to rest himself and smoke a pipe, and
finally went home, thoroughly tired.
This, then, was a true record of a visit to Bartholomew Fair, by the
aid of which we shall thoroughly appreciate the following
advertisements of the amusements there:--
'At the great Booth over against the Hospital Gate, during the time of
_Bartholomew Fair_ will be seen the Dancing on the Ropes, after the
French and Italian Fashion, by a Company of the finest Performers that
ever yet have been seen by the whole World. For in the same Booth will
be seen the two Famous French Maidens, so much admired in all Places
and Countries wherever they come (especially in _May fair_ last),
where they gain'd the highest Applause from all the Nobility and
Gentry, for their wonderful Performance on the Rope, both with and
without a Pole; so far out doing all others that have been seen of
their Sex, as gives a general Satisfaction to all that ever yet
beheld them. To which is added, Vaulting on the High Rope, and
Tumbling on the Stage. As also Vaulting on two Horses, on the great
Stage, at once. The Stage being built after the Italian manner, on
which you will see the Famous _Scaramouch_ and _Harlequin_. With
several other Surprizing Entertainments, too tedious here to mention.
Perform'd by the greatest Masters now in _Europe_. The like never seen
before in _England_.'
Rope-dancing was evidently very popular, for there is another booth,
in which Blondin is outdone. 'It is there you will see the Italian
Scaramouch dancing on the Rope, with a Wheel Barrow before him with
two Children and a Dog in it, and with a Duck on his Head; who sings
to the Company, and causes much laughter.' And yet one more, for it
introduces us to the most famous rope-dancer of the reign--'Lady
Mary.' 'Her Majesty's Company of Rope Dancers. At Mr. Barnes and
Finly's Booth, between the Hospital Gate and the Crown Tavern,
opposite the Cross Daggers, during the usual time of Bartholomew Fair,
are to be seen the most famous Rope dancers in Europe. And 1st. 2
young Maidens, lately arrived from France, Dance with and without a
Pole to admiration. 2. The Famous Mr. Barnes, of whose performances
this Kingdom is so sensible, Dances with 2 Children at his Feet, and
with Boots and Spurs. 3. Mrs. Finly distinguished by the name of Lady
Mary for her incomparable Dancing, has much improv'd herself since the
last Fair.' Lady Mary is frequently mentioned in contemporary
literature, and on one occasion is alluded to 'as little dressed as
Lady Mary.' This probably arose from her dispensing with petticoats in
dancing. The German rope-dancer, immortalised by Lauron, is dressed in
a fine frilled Holland shirt, trunk hose, and tights--in fact, the
usual acrobatic dress; and Ward notices two dancers, 'who, to show
their Affection to the Breeches wor'em under their Petticoats; which,
for decency's sake, they first Danc'd in; But they doft their
Petticoats after a gentle breathing.' This probably accounts for the
caustic remark in the _Spectator_ (No. 51), 'The Pleasantry of
stripping almost Naked has been since practised (where indeed it
should have begun) very successfully at _Bartholomew_ Fair.'
There were, also, natural curiosities to be seen. 'At the next Door to
the Sign of the _Greyhound_ in _Smithfield_, is to be shown (by Her
Majesty's Order) a Wonderful and Miraculous Sight, a Male Child which
was born in _Garnsey_ of the body of _Rebecca Secklin_, and now sucks
at her Breasts, being but Thirty Weeks old, with a prodigious big
Head, being above a yard about, and hath been shown to several Persons
of Quality.'
'_By Her Majesties Authority._ At the Hart's Horn's Inn in Pye Corner,
during the time of Bartholomew Fair, will be seen these strange
Rarities following, _viz._ A Little _Farey Woman_, lately come from
_Italy_, being but Two Foot Two Inches high, the shortest that ever
was seen in _England_, and no ways Deform'd, as the other two Women
are, that are carried about the Streets in Boxes from House to House,
for some years past, this being Thirteen Inches shorter than either of
them; if any Person has a desire to see her at their own Houses, we
are ready to wait upon them any Hour of the Day.
'Likewise a little _Marmazet_ from _Bengal_ that dances the _Cheshire
Rounds_,[340] and Exercises at the Word of Command. Also a strange
Cock from _Hamborough_, having Three proper Legs, Two Fundaments, and
makes use of them both at one time. Vivat Reginæ' (_sic_).
[Footnote 340: See Appendix.]
'Next Door to the Golden Hart in West Smithfield, between the Hospital
Gate and Pye Corner during the time of Bartholomew Fair, is to be seen
the Admirable Work of Nature, a Woman having three Breasts; and each
of them affording Milk at one time or differently, according as they
are made use of. There is likewise to be seen the Daughter of the same
Woman, which hath breasts of the like Nature, according to her Age;
and there never hath been any extant of such sort, which is wonderful
to all that ever did, or shall behold her.'
Theatrical performances naturally took a prominent part; for the two
theatres shut up during Fair time, and Mills, Doggett, and Penkethman,
all fair actors, and belonging to the regular stage, had booths here,
and did well; in fact, Penkethman became wealthy. As Ward
remarks[341]: 'After struggling with a Long See-Saw, between _Pride_
and _Profit_; and having Prudently consider'd the weighty difference
between the Honourable Title of one of His _Majesties Servants_, and
that of a _Bartholomew Fair Player_, a _Vagabond_ by the Statue, did
at last, with much difficulty, conclude, That it was equally Reputable
to Play the Fool in the _Fair_ for Fifteen or Twenty Shillings a Day,
as 'twas to please Fools in the _Play House_ at so much a week.'
[Footnote 341: _London Spy._]
At Parker's Booth was played the Famous History of Dorastus and
Fawnia, 'With very pleasant Dialogues and Antick Dances.'
'Never Acted before. At Miller's Booth, over against the Cross
Daggers, near the Crown Tavern, during the time of Bartholomew Fair
will be presented an Excellent new Droll call'd
'The Tempest, or the Distressed Lovers,
With the English HERO and the Highland Princess, with the Comical
Humours of the Inchanted Scotchman, or Jockey and the three
Witches. Shewing how a Nobleman of England was cast away upon the
Indian Shore, and in his Travels found the Princess of the
Country, with whom he fell in Love, and after many Dangers and
Perils, was married to her; and his faithful Scotchman, who was
saved with him, travelling thorow Woods, fell in among Witches,
where between 'em is abundance of Comical Diversion. There in the
Tempest, is Neptune with his Tritons in his Chariot drawn with
Sea Horses and Mairmaids singing. With Variety of Entertainments,
Performed by the best Masters; the Particulars would be too
tedious to be inserted here. Vivat Regina.'
There seems to have been another version of this play, which, after
all, was only a travesty of Shakespeare's 'Tempest.'
'At Doggett's Booth, Hosier Lane End, during the Time of
Bartholomew Fair, will be presented a New Droll, called the
Distress'd Virgin, or Unnatural Parents, Being a True History of
the Fair Maid of the West; or The Loving Sisters. With the
Comical Travels of Poor Trusty in search of his Master's
Daughter, and his encounter with Three Witches.
'Also Variety of Comick Dances and Songs, with Scenes and
Machines never seen before--Vivat Regina.'
In the next advertisement we see three of 'Her Majesty's Servants'
combine in keeping a booth in the Fair.
'At Pinkeman's, Mills', and Bullock's Booth,
In the Old Place over against the Hospital Gate, During the time
of Bartholomew Fair will be presented, A New Droll call'd
'The Siege of Barcelona, or the Soldier's Fortune,
With the taking of Fort Mount jouy,
Containing the Pleasant and Comical Exploits of that Renown'd
Hero Captain Blunderbuss and his Man Squib; His Adventures with
the Conjuror; and a Surprizing Scene of the Flying Machine, where
he and his Man Squib are Enchanted; Also the Diverting Humour of
Corporal Scare Devil.
'The Principal Parts Acted by the Comedians of the
Theatre Royal,
viz.
Colonel Lovewell Mr. Mills.
Captain Blunderbuss Mr. Bullock.
Squib, his Man Mr. Norris, alias Jubilee Dicky.[342]
Corporal Scare Devil Mr. Bickerstaff.
Maria, the Governor's Daughter Mrs. Baxter.
The Dame of Honour Mrs. Willis.
[Footnote 342: So called because in 1699 he played the part
of Dicky in Farquhar's _Constant Couple, or a Trip to the
Jubilee_.]
'To which will be added the Wonderful Performance of the most
celebrated Master, Mr. Simpson the famous Vaulter; Who has had the
Honour to teach most of the Nobility in England; and at whose request
he now performs with Mr. Pinkeman to let the World see what Vaulting
is. Being lately arrived from Italy.
'The Musick, Songs and Dances are all by the best Performers of their
kind, whom Mr. Pinkeman has Entertained at extraordinary Charge,
purely to give a full Satisfaction to the Town. Vivat Regina.'
'At _Ben Johnson's_ BOOTH (by Mrs. Mynn's Company of Actors). In the
Rounds in _Smithfield_, during the FAIR, Will be presented an
excellent Entertainment, being the Famous History of WHITTINGTON, Lord
MAYOR of LONDON: Wherein besides the Variety of SONGS and DANCES, will
be shown an extraordinary View of several stately and surprising
SCENES; as a Rowling Sea, bearing a large Ship under Sayl, with
_Neptune_, Mermaids, Dolphins, &c. Also a Prospect of a _Moorish_
Country, so swarming with Rats and Mice, that they over run the King
and Queen's Table at Dinner; Likewise a large diverting SCENE of
Tapestry, fill'd with all living Figures; and lastly, concluding with
a _Lord Mayor's_ Triumph, in which are presented nine several
Pageants, being Six Elephants and Castles, a Magnificent Temple, and
two Triumphal Chariots, one drawn by two Lyons, and the other by two
Dolphins; in all which are seated above twenty Persons in various
Dresses; with Flaggs, Scutcheons, Streamers, &c. The Preparation and
Decoration of which infinitely exceed both in Expence and Grandeur,
all that has ever been seen on a Stage in the FAIR. _The Chief Parts
are performed by Actors from both Theatres._ Vivat Regina.'
Here we see a departure from the old drolls, and a reliance on the
part of the management on mechanical and spectacular effects: besides
which, there was the puppet show, pure and simple. 'By Her Majesties
Permission. At HEATLY'S Booth, Over against the _Cross Daggers_, next
to Mr. _Miller's Booth_; During the time of _Bartholomew Fair_, will
be presented a _Little_ Opera, Call'd, The Old _Creation of the World_
Newly Reviv'd, With the Addition of the Glorious _Battle_ obtained
over the _French_ and _Spaniards_, by his Grace the _Duke_ of
_Marlborough_. The Contents are these--
'1. The Creation of _Adam_ and _Eve_.
'2. The Intreagues of _Lucifer_ in the Garden of _Eden_.
'3. _Adam_ and _Eve_ driven out of Paradice.
'4. _Cain_ going to Plow. _Abel_ driving Sheep.
'5. _Cain_ Killeth his Brother _Abel_.
'6. _Abraham_ Offering his Son _Isaac_.
'7. Three Wisemen of the _East_ guided by a Star, who Worship
him.
'8. _Joseph_ and _Mary_ flee away by Night upon an _Ass_.
'9. King _Herod's_ Cruelty, his _Men's_ spears _laden_ with
_Children_.
'10. Rich _Dives_ invites his _Friends_, and orders his Porter to
keep the Beggars from his Gate.
'11. Poor _Lazarus_ comes a begging at Rich _Dives's_ Gate, the
Dogs lick his Sores.
'12. The good Angel and Death contend for Lazarus's Life.
'13. Rich _Dives_ is taken Sick and dieth, he is buried in great
solemnity.
'14. Rich _Dives_ in Hell, and _Lazarus_ in _Abraham's_ Bosom,
seen in a most glorious Object, all in machines, descending in a
Throne, Guarded with multitudes of Angels, with the Breaking of
the Clouds, discovering the Palace of the Sun, in double and
treble Prospects, to the Admiration of all Spectators. Likewise
several Rich and Large Figures, which Dances _Jiggs_,
_Sarabrands_, Anticks, and Country _Dances_, between every Act;
compleated with the merry Humours of Sir John Spendall, and
_Punchanello_, with several other things never yet Expos'd.
Perform'd by Mat Heatly. Vivat Regina.'
This show seems to have been popular, for in another fair we have it
again with variations: 'At _Crawly's_ Booth, over against the _Crown
Tavern_ in _Smithfield_ during the time of _Bartholomew Fair_, will be
presented a little _Opera_ call'd, _The Old Creation of the World_,
yet newly reviv'd, with the addition of _Noah's Flood_; also several
Fountains playing Water during the time of the Play.
'The last Scene does present _Noah_ and his _Family_ coming out of the
Ark, with all the Beasts, two by two, and all the _Fowls_ of the Air
seen in a Prospect sitting upon the Trees. Likewise over the Ark is
seen the Sun rising in a most glorious manner, moreover a multitude of
Angels will be seen in a double rank, which presents a double
prospect, one for the Sun, the other for a Palace, where will be seen
six Angels, ringing six Bells.
'Likewise Machines descends from above, double and trible, with
_Dives_ rising out of Hell, and _Lazarus_ seen in _Abraham's_ bosom,
besides several _Figures_ dancing _Jiggs_, _Sarabrands_, and _Country
Dances_, to the Admiration of all Spectators; with the merry Conceit
of Squire _Punch_ and Sir _John Spendall_.
'All this is compleated with an Entertainment of Singing and Dancing
with several Naked Swords, Perform'd by a Child of Eight Years of Age,
to the general Satisfaction of all Persons. Vivat Regina.'
As a specimen of the dancing booth Ward visited, take the following
handbill: 'James Miles, From _Sadler's_ Wells, at _Islington_; NOW
keeps the GUN MUSICK BOOTH, in _Bartholomew_ Fair. Whereas Mr. _Miles_
by his Care and Diligence to oblige the Gentry, and all others that
are Lovers and Judges of good Musick, has put himself to an
extraordinary Charge, in getting such Performers, as, no doubt, will
give a general Satisfaction to all. This is also to give Notice to all
Gentlemen, Ladies, and Others, That they may be accommodated with all
Sorts of Wine, and other Liquors; with several extraordinary
Entertainments of Singing and Dancing, which was never perform'd at
the Fair, viz.:--
'1. A New Dance between Three Bullies and Three Quakers.
'2. A New Dance between Two Spirits and Two Scaramouches.
'3. A New Dance between Four Swans and Four _Indians_ riding on
their Backs.
'4. A Wrestler's Dance, performed by Two Youths.
'5. Likewise Dancing on the Tight Rope, and a Young Man that
Vaults the Slack Rope, with variety of Tumbling.
'6. A New Dance of Eight Granadiers, who perform the whole
Exercise of War, in their proper Accoutrements, to the just Time
of Musick.
'7. A New Scotch Dance, with their Habits and Bonnets, perform'd
by Two Boys, to Admiration.
'8. A New Entertainment between a Scaramouch, a Harliquin, and a
Punchanello in Imitation of Bilking a Reckoning.
'9. A New Cane Chair Dance by Eight Persons.
'10. A New Dance by Four Scaramouches, after the _Italian_
Manner.
'11. A New Dance by a Scaramouch and a Country Farmer.
'12. A New Swan's Dance, perform'd by Four young Lads, to the
Amazement of all Spectators.
'13. We shall also present you with the Wonder of her Sex, a
young Woman who dances with the Swords, and upon the Ladder, with
that Variety, that she challenges all her Sex to do the like.
'14. A Cripples Dance by Six Persons with Wooden Legs and
Crutches in Imitation of a Jovial Crew.
'15. A Posture Dance, perform'd by Eight Persons.
'16. A Dance by Six Men, wherein Two Coopers, Two Grinder and Two
Butchers perform everything natural to their Trades.
'17. The _Vigo_ Dance, perform'd by an _English_ Man, a _Dutch_
Man, a _French_ Man, and a _Spaniard_.
'18. A Blacksmith's Dance.
'19. A Tinker's Dance; together with other extraordinary
Entertainments too long to be inserted. Vivat Regina.'
There was a famous Merry Andrew who used to act for Pinkethman, and
who, at other times, followed the vocation of a Horse Doctor. There is
a very curious elegy upon him, still extant[343]:--
[Footnote 343: _Harl. MSS._, 5931, 251.]
That us'd to visit _Smithfield_ or _May Fair_,
To pertake of the Lewdness that is acted there;
T' oblige the Mobb, that did some Pastime lack,
He'd _Merry Andrew_ turn; and name of Quack
Forsake a Fortnight, then that time expir'd
The name of _Doctor_ was again acquir'd.
Occasionally there were rather more refined exhibitions, but they were
very rare. Here is one, 'In the first Booth on the left Hand from the
Hospital Gate, over against the Royal Oak Lottery, in Bartholomew
Fair, from 9 o'clock in the Morning till 9 at Night, will be exposed
to publick View, all the most valuable wrought Plate taken by her
Majesties Fleet at Vigo. Having been first Lodged in the Tower and
never exposed before but in the Tower, viz., a fine large Altar Piece
with 6 Angels at full proportion, standing round on Pedestals, 4
Apostles supporting the 4 pillars, and 4 Angels attending them, with
each a lamp for Incence in their Hands, also a Crown set with Valuable
Stones, a Holy Water Pot garnish'd with Curious Fillegrin Work, and a
great many other extraordinary Curiosities of Gilt and Fillegrin
Plate, all brought from Vigo. The like never seen in England before.
Price 6_d._'
Bartholomew Fair began on August 24 of each year, being St.
Bartholomew's Day, and lasted fourteen days. In 1691 and 1694 it was
reduced to the old term of three days, and in 1697, 1700, and 1702
stage plays were prohibited in the fair. The revenue derived from it
formed part of the income of the Lord Mayor, and in 1697 a proposal
was made to allow the Lord Mayor 4,000_l._ a year for the maintenance
of his office, and abolish his perquisites; when Bartholomew Fair was
valued at 100_l._ per annum.
On June 2, 1708, 'the Common Council of this City Mett, and the lease
for holding Bartholomew Fair expiring the 11th of August, agreed, That
for the future none should be kept for Stage Plays, raffling Shops &c.
which tend to debauchery; but only 3 dayes for the sale of leather and
Cattle, according to its antient custome.'[344] The raffling shops
were clearly illegal, for the same writer says, October 11, 1705:
'Yesterday the grand jury found bills of indictment against all those
persons who kept raffling shops in the Cloysters during Bartholomew
fair.' But all the legislation in the world was impotent to put down
this fair, until, in this century, public opinion as to the expedience
of fairs was changed, and 'Bartlemy' fair was proclaimed for the last
time in 1855.
[Footnote 344: Luttrell.]
May Fair, or, as it was originally called, St. James's Fair, was of
old date, as Machyn mentions it in his 'Diary for 1560.' Pepys, also,
calls it by the latter name when he speaks of it: its name of _May_
fair was comparatively recent, and was, of course, owing to its being
held in that month. It was held on the north side of Piccadilly, and
seems to have had even a more evil repute than Bartholomew Fair. The
_Observator_ says: 'Can any rational men imagine that her Majesty
would permit so much lewdness as is committed in May Fair, for so many
days together, so near to her royal Palace, if she knew anything about
the matter?' Anyhow the fair flourished during the major portion of
Anne's reign.
The shows were very much like those at the larger fair. Here is one in
1702: 'At MILLER'S Booth in _May Fair_, the Second Booth on the Right
Hand coming into the Fair, over against the Famous Mr. Barnes the Rope
Dancer, will be presented an Excellent Droll, call'd _Crispin_ and
_Crispianus_; or a Shoemaker a Prince. With the Comical Humours of
Barrady and the Shoemaker's Wife. With the best Machines, Singing and
Dancing, ever yet in the Fair. Where the Famous Ladder Dancer performs
those things upon the Ladder never before seen, to the Admiration of
all Men. Vivat Regina.'
'Lady Mary' was at the same fair, and advertises herself by means of a
disclaimer: 'Whereas it hath been maliciously reported that Mrs.
Finley, who for her incomparable Dancing on the Rope, is unwillingly
distinguish'd by the Name of the Lady Mary, was Dead; This is to
inform all Persons, That the said Report is Notoriously false, she now
being in Mr. Barnes's and Finley's Booth, over against Mr. Pinkethman
and Mr. Simson's, next to Mr. Mills, and Mr. Bullock's in May Fair,'
&c. And she was there again in 1704: 'At Mr. Finley and Mr. Barnes's
Booth, During the time of May Fair, will be seen a Compleat Company of
near 20 of the best Rope Dancers, Vaulters and Tumblers in Europe, who
are all excellent in their several Performances, and do such wonderful
and surprizing things, as the whole World cannot parallel; where
Finley, who gave that extraordinary satisfaction before Charles III.
King of Spain on Board the Royal Katherine, performs several new
entertainments, and where the Lady Mary, likewise shows such additions
to her former admirable perfections, as renders her the wonder of the
whole world.' She was very popular, as Pinkethman somewhat bitterly
remarks in the 'Epilogue to the Bath' (acted at Drury Lane, 1701),
where he says he made grimaces to empty benches, while Lady Mary had
carried all before her:--
Gadzooks, what signified my Face?
This, however, did not prevent Pinkethman from going there again; for
in 1704 he issued the following advertisement: 'In Brookfield
Marketplace at the East corner of Hide Park, is a Fair to be kept for
the space of Sixteen days, beginning the First of May: The first three
days for Live Cattle and Leather, with the same Entertainment as at
Bartholomew Fair, where there are shops to be Lett ready built, for
all manner of Tradesmen that usually keep Fairs; and so to continue
yearly at the same Time and place; being a Free Fair; and no person to
be arrested or molested during the Time of this Fair by Virtue of Pye
Powder Court. And at Mr. Pinkeman's Droll Booth will be performed
several Entertainments which will be expressed at large upon the
Bills, especially one very surprizing that the whole World never yet
produced the like, viz, He speaks an Epilogue upon an Elephant between
Nine and Ten Foot high arriv'd from Guinea, led upon the Stage by Six
Blacks. The Booth is easily known by the Picture of the Elephant and
Mr. Pinkethman sitting in State on his back, on the outside of his
Booth. Any body that wants Ground for Shops or Booths, may hire it of
Mr. Pinkeman, enquire at the Bull Head in Brookfield Market, alias May
Fair.'
He was there again in 1707. 'At Pinkeman's Booth in May Fair, to
entertain the Quality, Gentry, and others, he has got Eight Dancing
Doggs, brought from Holland, which are Admir'd by all that see them:
and they will dance upon Mr. Pinkeman's Stage in each Show. This
Extraordinary Charge he's at (in procuring these Doggs) is purely to
divert the Town. They are the Wonder of the World, The last Show
beginning between 8 & 9 a Clock for the Entertainment of the Quality,
as the Park breaks up.'
There was another theatrical company: 'At the NEW PLAY HOUSE in MAY
FAIR, During the time of the FAIR will be play'd, the True and Ancient
Story of MAUDLIN _the Merchants Daughter of_ BRISTOL _and her lover_
ANTONIO. How they were Cast away in a Tempest upon the Coast of
_Barbary_; where the Mermaids were seen floating on the Seas, and
Singing on the Rocks, foretelling their danger. The DROLL intermingled
with most delightful merry Comedy, after the manner of an OPERA, with
extraordinary variety of Singing and Dancing: By his Grace the Duke of
_Southampton's_ Servants. _The Place will be Known by the Balcone
adorn'd with Blue Pillars twisted with Flowers._ Vivat Regina.'
May Fair boasted of its natural curiosities, as the two following
advertisements testify: 'Near Hide Park Corner during the Time of May
Fair, near the Sheep pens over against Mr. Penkethman's Booth; Is to
be seen the Wonder of the World in Nature, being a Mail Child born
with a Bear growing on its Back alive, to the great Admiration of all
Spectators, having been shown before most of the Nobility of the
Land.'
'By Her Majesties Permission. This is to give Notice to all Gentlemen,
Ladies and others, that coming into May Fair, the first Booth on the
left Hand, over against Mr. Pinkeman's Booth; During the usual time of
the Fair, is to be seen, a great Collection of Strange and Wonderful
Rarities, all Alive from several parts of the World.
'A little Black Man lately brought from the West Indies, being the
Wonder of this Age, he being but 3 Foot high and 25 Years Old.
'Likewise 2 Wood Monsters from the East Indies, Male and Female, being
the Admirablest Creaturs that ever was seen in this Kingdom; they
differ from all Creaturs whatsoever, and are so Wonderful in Nature
that it is too large to insert here.
'Also a little Marmoset from the East Indies, which by a great deal of
Pains is now brought to that perfection, that no Creature of his Kind
ever perform'd the like; he Exercises by Word of Command, he dances
the Cheshire Rounds, he also dances with 2 Naked Swords, and performs
several other Pretty Fancies. Likewise a Noble Civet Cat from Guiny
which is admir'd for his Beauty, and that incomparable Scent, which
Perfumes the whole Place. Also a Muntosh from Rushy, being very
Wonderfully Marked.
'Also a Helliscope from Argier, being the Beautifuls Creature in all
the World; specked like a Leopard. Vivat Regina.'
The 'London Spy' would be incomplete without an account of a scene so
congenial as May Fair, so of course he visited it; but it does not
appear to have vied in any degree with Bartholomew Fair. 'We ordered
the Coach to drive thro' the Body of the Fair that we might have the
better View of the Tinsey Heroes and the gazing Multitude; expecting
to have seen several Corporations of Strolling Vagabonds, but there
prov'd but one Company, amongst whom Merry _Andrew_ was very busie in
coaxing the attentive Crowd into a good Opinion of his Fraternitie's
and his own Performances; and when with abundance of Labour, Sweat,
and Nonsense he had drawn a great cluster of the Mob on his Parade,
and was just beginning to encourage them to _Walk in and take their
Places_; his unlucky opposite, whose boarded Theatre entertain'd the
Publick with the wonderful activity of some little _Indian_ Rope
Dancers, brings out a couple of Chattering _Homunculusses_, drest up
in _Scaramouch_ Habit; and every thing that Merry _Andrew_ and his
Second did on the one side, was mimick'd by the little Flat nos'd
Comedians on the other, till the two Diminutive Buffoons, by their
Comical Gestures had so prevail'd upon the gaping Throng, that tho'
Merry _Andrew_ had taken pains, with all the wit he had to collect the
Stragling Rabble into their proper order, yet like an unmannerly
Audience, they turn'd their Backs upon the _Players_, and devoted
themselves wholly to the Monkeys, to the great vexation of _Tom Fool_
and all the Strutting train of imaginary Lords and Ladies. At last
comes an Epitome of a Careful Nurse, drest up in a Country Jacket, and
under her Arm a Kitten for a Nurslin, and in her contrary hand a piece
of Cheese; down sits the little Matron with a very Motherly
Countenance, and when her Youngster _Mew'd_, she Dandled him, and
Rock'd him in her Arms, with as great signs of Affection as a loving
Mother could well shew to a disorder'd Infant; then bites a piece of
the Cheese, and after she had mumbled it about in her own Mouth, then
thrust it with her Tongue into the Kitten's. Just as I have seen some
Nasty Old Sluts feed their Grandchildren.'
The other shows in the fair seem to have been very poor: two or three
dancing booths, a puppet show, 'a Turkey Ram, with as much Wooll upon
his Tail as would load a Wheelbarrow,' and a couple of tigers, were
all Ward could find worth recording.
The fair was disorderly, and in 1702 an incident occurred which
materially assisted its downfall. 'Westminster, May 16. The Constables
of this Liberty being more than ordinary vigilant in the discharge of
their duty, since the coming forth of her Majesty's pious Proclamation
again Vice and Debauchery, and having in pursuance thereof taken up
several Lewd Women in May Fair, in order to bring them to Justice,
were opposed therein by several rude Soldiers, one of whom is
committed to Prison, and the rest are diligently enquired after.'[345]
In fact among them they managed to kill a constable, named John
Cooper--for which murder a fencing-master named Cook was afterwards
hanged at Tyburn; and, although the fair lingered a few years longer,
yet it became such a nuisance that in November 1708 the Grand Jury of
Westminster 'did present as a publick Nuisance and Inconvenience, the
yearly riotous and tumultuous Assembly in a place called _Brook
Field_, in the Parish of _St. Martins in the Fields_, in this County,
called _May Fair_.'[346]
[Footnote 345: _Postman_, May 14/16, 1702.]
[Footnote 346: _Stow's Survey_, ed. 1720.]
This was the beginning of its end, and 1708 saw the last of the fair.
'Saturday 30 April 1709. Yesterday was published a proclamation by her
Majestie, prohibiting the erecting or making use of any booths or
stalls in Mayfair, for any plays, shows, gaming, musick meetings, or
other disorderly assemblies.'[347] That this had been expected is
shown by Steele, writing on April 18, 1709. 'Advices from the upper
end of Piccadilly say, that May Fair is utterly abolished.'[348]
[Footnote 347: Luttrell.]
[Footnote 348: _Tatler_, No. 4.]
The _Tatler_ (No. 21) makes merry over its downfall, and says, 'if any
lady or gentleman have occasion for a tame elephant, let them enquire
of Mr. Pinkethman, who has one to dispose of at a reasonable rate. The
downfall of May-fair has quite sunk the price of this noble Creature,
as well as of many other Curiosities of Nature. A tiger will sell
almost as cheap as an ox; and I am Credibly informed, a man may
purchase a cat with three legs, for very near the value of one with
four. I hear likewise that there is a great desolation among the
gentlemen and ladies who were the ornaments of the town, and used to
shine in plumes and diadems; the heroes being most of them pressed,
and the queens beating hemp.'
There was also a fair at Southwark, but of this very little mention is
made in the newspapers or handbills. It was an old one, dating from
1492, and was founded by a Charter granted by Edward IV., to hold a
fair 'for three days, that is to say, the 7th, 8th, 9th days of
September to be holden, together with a Court of Pie Powders, and with
all the liberties to such Fairs appertaining.' It used to be opened
with some degree of state by the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs, and was
generally called 'Our Lady's Fair.'