'As to the Articles, they were sacredly Kept on my part, but never

perform'd by _Murray_, to my great Loss and Damage, as by the very

Articles themselves will evidently appear; and I am ready at any time

to demonstrate, it is so far from having One Shilling due to him, or

using him any way hardly, That on the Contrary, in Compassion to his

distressed Condition, I have often bayl'd him to keep him out of

Prison, and redeem'd him from thence, lent him several Sums of Money,

which he never took care to pay again; and to this day I have Notes

and Bonds to Produce, that he owes me more than One hundred and Fifty

Pounds: So that these most unjust and ungrateful Allegations in

_Murray_, are at this time reviv'd to be made use of, as malicious

Reflections to lessen my Service to this City, and to stain my

Reputation and Integrity thereby, to hinder my Fellow Citizens

Kindness upon the Election for Chamberlain, which I hope will make no

Impression, since I do affirm myself to be the first that ever put the

Penny Post into Practice at a vast Expence and great Loss to me and my

Family.

'WILLIAM DOCKWRA.'

And in the next day's _Courant_ he was obliged to defend himself from

other allegations.

'Whereas some Malicious Persons, designing to lessen me in the good

Opinion of my Fellow Citizens, have spread a False and Scandalous

Report, that I, _William Dockwra_, was remov'd from being Comptroller

of the _Penny Post_, because of Injuries done to the Subject; and that

I sunk the Revenue at least one fourth part to the Crown. I do hereby

declare, That on the Contrary, I rectified many Abuses in the

Management of that Office, and never wrong'd either Crown or Subject

of the Value of a Shilling: And I do positively affirm, That I prov'd

undeniably before the Post Master General by the Accounts then made

up, that I advanced that small Revenue above Four Hundred Pounds: Yet

neither my Right to the whole (being the only Person that ever brought

the _Penny Post_ to Perfection) nor the faithful Discharge of my Trust

while Comptroller thereof, were sufficient to protect me against those

Artifices too often made use of to remove useful and honest Men from

publick Imployment: Nor have I receiv'd any of the Pension formerly

granted me these two Years and half past. So that I hope the

Impartial World will consider the great Loss I and my Family have

sustain'd, by being depriv'd of the _Penny Post_, whilst the Publick

daily reaps the Benefit and Advantage thereof and will do so to

Posterity.

'WILLIAM DOCKWRA.'

In 1711 an Act was passed abolishing the penny post, and on June 23 of

that year a proclamation was issued putting it in force. A notice had

previously appeared in the _London Gazette_ of June 12/14,

assimilating all rates to those of the General Post, although for 'the

Accommodation of the Inhabitants of such Places, their Letters will be

convey'd with the same Regularity and Dispatch as formerly, being

first Tax'd with the Rates, and Stamp'd with the Mark of the General

Post Office, and that all Parcels will likewise be Tax'd at the Rate

of One Shilling per Ounce as the said Act directs.'

In 1709 the Foreign and Inland Post Letter days were:--

'MONDAY. To Spain, Italy, Germany, Flanders, Denmark, Sweedland,

Downs and Kent.

'TUESDAY. Germany, Holland, Sweedland, Denmark, North Britain,

Ireland and Wales.

'WEDNESDAY. Kent and the Downs.

'THURSDAY. Spain, Italy, and all parts of North Britain and

England.

'FRIDAY. Italy, Germany, Flanders, Kent, Holland, Sweedland,

Denmark and Downs.

'SATURDAY. All parts of Wales, North Britain, England and

Ireland.

'Letters return from all parts of England and North Britain, Mondays,

Wednesdays and Fridays; from Wales, Mondays and Fridays, from Kent and

the Downs every day; but from beyond Sea uncertain.

'The Carriage is 2_d._ a Sheet 80 Miles, double 4_d._ and 8_d._ an

Ounce for more than Letters. All Letters more than 80 Miles is 3_d._

Single and 6_d._ Double Pacquet 12_d._ an Ounce. A Letter to Dublin

6_d._ Single, Double 1/ and 1/6 an Ounce.'

Foreign postage was not so very dear. In 1705, for instance, a letter

of a single sheet could be carried _to_ the West Indies for

1_s._/3_d._ and 2 sheets for 2/6; whilst _from_ thence to England it

was respectively 1/6 and 3/, or by weight 6/ per oz.

In 1708 Mr. Povey established a foot post--carrying letters, in the

London district only, for one halfpenny. How long he kept it up does

not seem clear; the Post Office authorities stopped him; but there is

an advertisement referring to it in the _Daily Courant_ of July 4,

1710: 'Whereas a Person in some Distress sent a letter by the

Halfpenny Carriage on Monday night last,' etc., and this clearly

shows it was in existence at that date.

The _Gazette_ Nov. 29/Dec. 1, 1709, has the following Advertisement:

'Whereas Charles Povey and divers Traders and Shop Keepers in and

about the Cities of London and Westminster, Borough of Southwark and

Parts adjacent, and several Persons ringing Bells about the Streets of

the said Cities and Borough, have set up, imploy'd, and for sometime

continued a Foot Post for Collecting and Delivering Letters within the

said Cities and Borough, and Parts adjoining, for Hire under the Name

of the Halfpenny Carriage. Contrary to the Known Laws of this Kingdom,

and to the great Prejudice of her Majesty's Revenues arising by Posts;

her Majesty's Postmaster General has therefore directed Informations

in her Majesty's Court of Exchequer, to be exhibited against the said

Charles Povey, and several Shop Keepers and Ringers of Bells, for

Recovery against every of them of £100 for such setting up, and for

every week's continuance thereof; and also £5 for every Offence in

Collecting and Delivering of Letters for Hire as aforesaid, contrary

to the Statute for erecting and establishing a Post Office.'

These additions to the rate of postage, of course, induced people to

look after franks--the granting of which, however, had not assumed

anything like the proportions it did later on.

But there was not the hurrying and driving in business then as now.

Men lived over their shops or counting houses, and, being easily

accessible, did their work in a deliberate, leisurely manner, and

began their business very early in the day. For instance, when Sir

William Withers, Lord Mayor in 1707, was putting up for a seat in

Parliament, he adduced, as showing he would have time for his

parliamentary duties, that 'There is not above one Cause in a Day

throughout the whole Year, to be Heard after Ten a Clock in the

Morning.'[166] 'Change was earlier than now; 'Crowds of People gather

at the _Change_ by One, disperse by Three.'[167] It is thus humorously

described:[168] 'The Exchange is the Land's Epitome, or you might call

it the little Isle of _Great Britain_ did the Waters encompass it. It

is more, 'tis the whole World's Map which you may here discern in its

perfectest Motion, justling and turning. 'Tis a vast heap of Stones,

and the confusion of Languages makes it resemble _Babel_. The Noise in

it is like that of Bees; a strange Humming or Buzzing, of walking

tongues and feet; it is a kind of a still Roaring, or loud Whisper. It

is the great Exchange of all Discourses, and no Business whatsoever

but is here on Foot. All things are sold here, and Honesty by Inch of

Candle; but woe be to the Purchaser, for it will never thrive with

him.'

[Footnote 166: _Daily Courant_, October 30, 1707.]

[Footnote 167: _A Comical View of London and Westminster_,

ed. 1705, p. 100.]

[Footnote 168: _Hickelty Pickelty._]

In the centre of the Exchange was a statue of Charles II., and here

the stock jobbers hovered about--when they were not at Robin's or

Jonathan's in Exchange Alley; and all about, each under his own

nationality, stood the trim Italian, the Hollanders and Germans, with

their slovenly mien, and uncouth, unkempt beards and moustachios. The

Dons, in flat crowned hats and short cloaks, took snuff prodigiously,

and smelt terribly of garlic; there were the lively Gauls, animated

and chattering, 'ready to wound every Pillar with their Canes, as they

pass'd by, either in Ters, Cart, or Saccoon.' Jews of course, amber

necklace sellers from the Baltic in fur caps and long gowns, a

sprinkling of seedy military men, and the merchants. These were the

constituent parts of 'Change in those days, and it must have been a

sight worth seeing. Round about were shops as now, where the spruce

young Cits ogled the pretty glove sellers, or bought a Steinkirk, or a

sword knot. Contemporary accounts of these fair damsels are not very

good, but it was rather a libellous or scurrilous age as regards

women, and they might not be true, or at all events be taken with much

salt.

Ward[169] gives an amusing account of the exterior. 'The Pillars at

the Entrance of the Front _Porticum_ were adorn'd with sundry

Memorandums of old Age and Infirmity, under which stood here and there

a _Jack in a Box_, like a Parson in a Pulpit, selling Cures for your

Corns, Glass Eyes for the Blind, Ivory Teeth for Broken Mouths, and

Spectacles for the weak sighted; the Passage to the Gate being lin'd

with Hawkers, Gardeners, Mandrake Sellers, and Porters; after we had

Crowded a little way amongst the Miscellaneous Multitude, we came to a

_Pippin Monger's_ Stall, surmounted with a _Chymist's_ Shop; where

_Drops_, _Elixirs_, _Cordials_, and _Balsams_ had justly the

Pre-eminence of _Apples_, _Chesnuts_, _Pears_, and _Oranges_,' etc.,

showing a view of the motley group of costermongers without. The

pillars of the Exchange were hung round with advertisements, as indeed

they were until very recently.

[Footnote 169: _London Spy._]

Some well-known names of bankers were then in existence--Child's,

Hoare's, Stone's, and Martin's. In Harl. MSS. 5996, 153 is a somewhat

curious advertisement of Sir Richard Hoare's. 'WHEREAS there hath been

several false and Malicious Reports industriously spread abroad

reflecting on Sir _Richard Hoare_, Goldsmith, for occasioning and

promoting a Run for Money on the _Bank of England_; and in particular,

several of the Directors of the said Bank reporting, That the said Sir

_Richard_ sent to the Bank for Ten of their Notes of £10 each, with a

design to send several Persons with the said Notes to receive the

Money thereon, so as to effect his ill Designs, and to bring a

Disreputation on the Bank, and occasion a Disturbance in the City of

_London_:

'This is to satisfie all Persons, That the Right Honourable the Lord

_Ashburnham_, Father of the Honourable Major _Ashburnham_, Major of

the First Troop of Her Majesty's Life Guards, who was ordered to march

for _Scotland_, sending to the said Sir _Richard Hoare_ for a large

Quantity of Gold, and for Ten Bank Notes of £10 each, for the said

Major to take with him to bear his Expenses. The Gold was sent to his

Lordship accordingly, and Sir _Richard's_ Servant went to the Bank for

ten Notes of £10 each, which the Cashier of the Bank refus'd to give:

But if Sir _Richard_ had intended to promote a Run for Mony on the

Bank, he could have done it in a more effectual manner, having by him,

all the time that the great demand for Mony was on the Bank, several

Thousand Pounds in Notes payable by the Bank; and also there was

brought to Sir _Richard_ by several Gentlemen, in the time of the Run

on the Bank, Notes payable by the said Bank, amounting to a great many

Thousands of Pounds, which he was desir'd to take and receive the Mony

presently from the Bank, which he refus'd to do until the great Demand

on the Bank for Money was over.

'N.B. That the Reports against Sir _Richard_ have been more Malicious

than herein is mention'd, which he forbears to insert for brevity's

sake.'

Ward, for some reason, disliked bankers: 'What methods do they take

now to improve their Cash? The chief advantage they now make is by

supplying the Necessities of straiten'd Merchants and great Dealers,

to pay (for) the Goods imported, rather than they should fall under

the Discredit as well as Disadvantage of being run into the King's

Ware House, or by assisting of 'em in the purchase of great Bargains,

or the like; for which they make 'em pay such unreasonable extortion,

that they devour more of the Merchants Profit than Snails, Worms or

Magpies, do of the Farmers Crop, or the Gardiner's Industry.' If this

was all the fault he could find, their iniquities were not very

glaring.

CHAPTER XIII.

MEN'S DRESS.

A beau -- An inventory of him -- Hats -- Wigs: their price:

varieties -- Hair powder -- Robbery of wigs -- Natural hair --

Neck cloths -- Shirts -- Open waistcoats -- Colonel Edgworth --

Coats -- Cheap clothiers -- Stockings -- Boots and shoes --

Shoeblacks and blacking -- Handkerchiefs -- Muffs -- Swords --

Walking sticks -- Watches -- Over coats -- Night caps -- Night

gowns.

We have seen the birth, marriage, and funeral of these good people,

and have noted some of their social habits. Next is, how did they

dress? Far plainer than in Charles the Second's time, rather richer

than under solemn and austere Dutch William, yet not nearly as finely

as during the Georgian era. That, of course, is speaking of ordinary

mortals--neither the titled ones of the land, who showed their rank by

their dress, nor the beaus, who formed no inconsiderable portion of

metropolitan life, and at whom were levelled stinging little shafts of

satire from all sides, mostly good-humoured. The macaroni, the dandy,

the buck, the blood, the swell--all are fine, but the beau of Anne's

time was _superfine_, and modelled on the messieurs of the time of

Louis XIV. He cannot be dismissed in a few words, for he was an

institution of the time. There were travelled fops, and they were

hated--there were those of home manufacture, and they were laughed at.

Misson notes that 'A Beau is so much the more remarkable in _England_,

because generally speaking, the _English_ Men dress in a plain uniform

manner,' and he describes them as 'Creatures compounded of a Perriwig

and a Coat laden with Powder as white as a Miller's, a Face besmear'd

with Snuff, and a few affected airs; they are exactly like Molière's

Marquesses, and want nothing but that Title, which they would

infallibly assume in any other Country but England.' Cibber[170]

describes him as one 'that's just come to a small Estate, and a great

Perriwig--he that Sings himself among the Women--He won't speak to a

Gentleman when a Lord's in Company. You always see him with a Cane

dangling at his Button, his Breast open, no Gloves, one Eye tuck'd

under his Hat, and a Toothpick.' Verily, there is little new under the

sun, and we, in these our latter days, have been familiar with the

_Toothpick_.

[Footnote 170: _The Careless Husband_, 2nd ed., 1705.]

Ward naturally loves him--impales him on his entomological pin--and

enjoys his wriggles. He puts him under his microscope and minutely

observes him, and then gives us the benefit of his description: 'A

Beau is a _Narcissus_ that is fallen in Love with himself and his own

Shadow. Within Doors he is a great Friend to a great Glass, before

which he admires the Works of his Taylor more than the whole Creation.

His Body's but a Poor Stuffing of a Rich Case, like Bran to a Lady's

Pincushion; that when the outside is stript off, there remains nothing

that's Valuable. His Head is a Fool's Egg, which lies hid in a Nest of

Hair; His Brains are the Yolk which Conceit has Addled. He's a

strolling Assistant to Drapers and Taylors, showing every other Day a

New Pattern, and a New Fashion. He's a Walking Argument against

Immortality; For no Man by his Actions, or his Talk can find he has

more Soul than a Goose. He's a very Troublesome Guest in a Tavern; and

must have good Wine chang'd three or four Times till they bring him

the worst in the Cellar, before he'll like it. His Conversation is as

intolerable as a young Councel's in Term Time. Talking as much of his

_Mistresses_, as the other does of his _Motions_; and will have the

most Words, tho' all he says is nothing. He's a Bubble to all he deals

with, even to his Periwig Maker; and hates the sordid Rascal that

won't Flatter him. He scorns to condescend so low, as to speak of any

Person beneath the dignity of a Noble man; the Duke of such a Place,

and my Lord such one, are his common Cronies, from whom he knows all

the Secrets of the Court, but dares not impart 'em to his best

Friends, because the Duke enjoyn'd him to Secrecie. He is always

furnish'd with new Jests from the last New Play, which he most

commonly spoiles with repeating. His Watch he compares with every Sun

Dial, Swears it corrects the Sun; and plucks it out so frequently in

Company, that his Fingers go oftener in a Day to his Fob, than they do

to his Mouth, spending more time every Week in showing the Rarity of

the Work, than the Man did in making on't; being as forward to tell

the Price without desiring, as he is to tell you the Hour without

asking; he is a constant Visitor of a Coffee house, where he Cons over

the News Papers with much indifference; Reading only for Fashion's

sake and not for Information. He's commonly of a small standing at one

of the Universities, tho' all he has learnt there, is to Know how many

Taverns there are in the Town, and what _Vintner_ has the handsom'st

Wife.... He's a Coward amongst _Brave men_, and a _Brave fellow_ among

_Cowards_; a _Fool_ amongst _Wise men_, and a _Wit_ in Fool's

company.'

Pretty hard hitting; but it is borne out on all hands. Try another

description:[171] 'His first Care is his Dress, the next his Body; and

in the uniting these Two lies his Soul and Faculties. His business is

in the Side Box, the Stage, and the Drawing Room; his Discourse

consists of Dress, Equipage, and the Ladies, and his extream

Politeness in writing _Billet deux_; which he never fails to shew in

all Companies. The nice Management of his _Italian_ Snuff box, and the

affected Screw of his Body, makes up a great Part of his Conversation,

and the Pains he takes to recommend himself, wou'd set _Heraclitus_ a

Laughing. He's perpetually Laughing to shew his white Teeth, and is

never serious but with his Taylor. His whole Design is bent upon a

Fortune, which if he gets, the Coach and Equipage is still supported;

if not his fine Cloaths and he prove stale together, and he is

commonly buried ere he dies in a Gaol, or the Country, two places

equally disagreeable to a Man of his Complexion.'

[Footnote 171: _Hickelty Pickelty._]

And, not to be wearisome, we will conclude with John Hughes'

'Inventory of a Beau':[172] "A very rich tweezer case, containing

twelve instruments for the use of each hour in the day.

[Footnote 172: _Tatler_, No. 113.]

'Four pounds of scented snuff, with three gilt snuff boxes; one of

them with an invisible hinge, and a looking glass in the lid.

'Two more of ivory, with the portraitures on their lids of two ladies

of the town; the originals to be seen every night in the side boxes of

the play house.

'A sword with a steel diamond hilt, never drawn but once at May fair.

'Six clean packs of cards, a quart of orange flower water, a pair of

French scissors, a toothpick case, and an eye brow brush.

'A large glass case, containing the linen and cloaths of the deceased;

among which are two embroidered suits, a pocket perspective, a dozen

pairs of _red heeled shoes_, three pairs of _red silk stockings_, and

an amber headed cane.

'The strong box of the _deceased_, wherein were found five billet

doux, a Bath shilling, a crooked sixpence, a silk garter, a lock of

hair, and three broken fans.

'A press for books; containing on the upper shelf Three bottles of

diet drink--Two boxes of pills.

'On the second shelf are several miscellaneous works; as Lampoons,

Plays, Taylor's Bills, And an Almanack for the year 1700.

'On the third shelf, a bundle of letters unopened, indorsed, in the

hand of the deceased "Letters from the old Gentleman," Lessons for the

flute, Toland's "Christianity not mysterious," and a paper filled with

patterns of several fashionable stuffs.

'On the lower shelf, one shoe, a pair of snuffers, a French Grammar, a

mourning hatband; and half a bottle of usquebaugh.

'There will be added to these goods, to make a complete auction, a

collection of gold snuffboxes and clouded canes, which are to continue

in fashion for three months after the sale.'

In a description of men's dress, we will begin at his hat, and descend

gradually to his boots. The hats were rather low crowned, made of

felt, with very broad flapping brims--which were looped up, or

cocked--very much at the fancy of the wearer--and the absence of this

cocking denoted a sloven. 'Take out your Snuff Box, Cock, and look

smart, hah!'[173] says Clodio to his bookworm brother Carlos; and

their numerous shapes are alluded to by Budgell,[174] 'I observed

afterwards, that the Variety of Cocks into which he moulded his Hat,

had not a little contributed to his Impositions upon me.'

[Footnote 173: _Love Makes a Man_, C. Cibber, ed. 1701.]

[Footnote 174: _Spectator_, 319.]

They were universally of black hue; at least I have never met with

mention of any other colour, except in sport: 'I shall very speedily

appear at _White's_ in a _Cherry coloured Hat_. I took this Hint from

the Ladies Hoods, which I look upon as the boldest Stroke that Sex has

struck for these three hundred Years last past.'[175] They had a gold

or silver lace hat band, but ordinary people seldom had their hats

edged. A hatband was considered _de rigueur_ for servants, and Swift's

man, Peter, even bought a silver one for himself, rather than be

without one. Feathers were only worn by military men. 'The Person

wearing the Feather, though our Friend took him for an Officer in the

Guards, has proved to be an arrant Linnen Draper,'[176] _i.e._ only in

the train bands.

[Footnote 175: _Ibid._]

[Footnote 176: _Ibid._]

But it was in the periwig, the Falbala, or Furbelow, the dress wig of

the age, that all care was centred, and in which all the art of dress

culminated. Originally invented by a French courtier to conceal a

deformity in the shoulders, either of the Dauphin, or the Duke of

Burgundy, its use spread all over Europe; but, perhaps, the fashion

never was so preposterous at any time, as it was in Anne's reign, if

we except the wonderful wig of the spendthrift Sir Edward Hungerford

(whose bust used to be in a niche in Hungerford Market) in the middle

of the previous century, who is said to have given five hundred

guineas for a wig! They were made from women's hair--or, at least,

were so presumably. Of this we have many examples; take one: 'A noisie

Temple _Beaux_ with a Peruke of his Sister's Hair ill made';[177]

[Footnote 177: _The Roving Husband Reclaim'd_, ed. 1706.]

They made our Sparks cut off their Nat'ral Hair,

A d--d long W----'s Hair Periwig to wear.[178]

[Footnote 178: _The Baboon à la Mode, A Satyr against the

French._]

Women's hair was a valuable commodity, judging by the following: 'An

Oxfordshire Lass was lately courted by a young man of that County, who

was not willing to marry her unless her friends could advance £50 for

her portion; which they being incapable of doing, the lass came to

this City to try her fortune, when she met with a good Chapman in the

Strand, who made a purchase of her Hair (which was delicately long and

light), and gave her _sixty pounds_ for it, being 20 ounces at £3 _an

ounce_; with which money she joyfully returned into the Country and

bought her a husband.'[179] Indeed, it was an article of general

purchase and sale: 'We came up to the corner of a narrow Lane, where

_Money for old Books_ was writ upon some part or other of every Shop,

as surely as _Money for Live Hair_, upon a _Barber's_ Window.'[180]

[Footnote 179: _Protestant Mercury_, July 10, 1700.]

[Footnote 180: _London Spy._]

Men used to travel the country on horseback and collect it, and it was

not unfrequent for suspected highwaymen, when stopped and brought

before the authorities, to declare they were dealers in hair, roaming

about, following their avocation--although it could not have been a

very remunerative one, if we can believe the advertisements for the

apprehension of deserters from the army: 'said he was a dealer in

hair' being frequently mentioned. Here is an advertisement which gives

a graphic picture of one of these gentry: 'Lost on Tuesday Night last

the 14th Instant, about 6 in the Evening, from behind a Gentleman in

Piccadilly, a Pair of Bags, in which were three Bladders with Hair in,

two Holland Shirts, Neckcloaths, and other Linnen, A Leather Bag with

an Iron Instrument and Hair in it, a pair of small Perriwig Cards,

with Read the Maker's Name in Flower de Luce Court in Fleet Street,

and other small matters beside,'[181] etc.; and we may note that 'At

the Sugar Loaf in Bishopsgate Street near Cornhil, is the House of

Call, where Perriwig Makers can have Men, and Men may have

Masters.'[182]

[Footnote 181: _Daily Courant_, Oct. 17, 1712.]

[Footnote 182: _Postman_, Nov. 13/16, 1708 (? misprint for

1707).]

'Did you ever see a Creature more ridiculous than that stake of human

nature which dined the other day at our house, with his great long wig

to cover his head and face; which was no bigger than a _Hackney

Turnep_, and much of the same form and shape? Bless me, how it looked!

just like a great Platter of French Soup, with a little bit of flesh

in the middle. Did you mark the beau tiff of his wig, what a deal of

pains he took to toss it back, when the very weight thereof was like

to draw him from his seat?'[183] And they must have been heavy. 'His

Wigg I believe had a pound of Hair and two pounds of powder

in't.'[184] And again, 'One Impudent Correcter of Jade's Flesh, had

run his Poles against the back Leather of a foregoing Coach, to the

great dammage of a _Beau's_ Reins, who peeping out of the Coach door,

with at least a _fifty Ounce Wig_ on,' etc.[185]

[Footnote 183: _The Levellers, a Dialogue._]

[Footnote 184: _The Gamesters._]

[Footnote 185: _London Spy._]

The furbelow, or dress wig, was sometimes called a 'long Duvillier'

(see _Tatler_ 29), from a famous French perruquier of that name; and

these wigs were not only long, but tall: _vide_ the humorous

advertisement in the _Tatler_ (180): 'N.B. Dancing Shoes, not

exceeding four inches in height in the heels, and periwigs not

exceeding three feet in length, are carried in the coach box

_gratis_.' Not to have it in perfect curl was unendurable. 'I think

standing in the Pillory cannot be a more sensible Ignominy to a

Gentleman that wears tolerable Cloaths, than appearing in Publick with

a rumpled Periwig.'[186] Pretty dears! they used to carry ivory or

tortoiseshell combs, curiously ornamented, with them, and comb their

precious wigs in public--ay, the most public places--walking in the

Park, or sitting in the Beau's Paradise, the side box of the theatre,

and when paying visits. But it seems to have been in anybody's power,

by the exercise of a little trouble, to keep his wig in proper

curl.[187] 'The Secret White Water to Curl Gentlemen's Hair,

Children's Hair, or fine Wigs withal, that are out of Curl; being used

over Night, according to Directions, it performs a Curl by next

Morning as substantial and durable as that of a new Wig, without

damaging the Beauty of the Hair one jot; by it old Wigs that look

almost scandalous, may be made to shew inconceivably fine and neat,

and if any single Lock or part of a Wig be out of Curl, by the

pressing of the Hat or riding in windy or rainy Weather, in one

Night's time it may be repaired hereby to Satisfaction. The Directions

are so ample and large that Gentlemen's Men may perform the work with

all the ease imaginable, the like thing never done before. Invented by

an able Artist, and sold only at the Glover's Shop under the Castle

Tavern, Fleet Street. Price 1_s._ a Bottle.'

[Footnote 186: _The Gentleman Cully_, ed. 1702.]

[Footnote 187: _Postman_, Sept 23/26, 1710.]

These wigs were expensive--that is, if Steele and Addison do not

exaggerate. Take this example from the _Tatler_, No. 54. 'He answered

Phillis a little abruptly at supper the same evening, upon which she

threw his perriwig into the fire. "Well," said he, "thou art a brave

termagant jade; do you know, hussy, that fair wig _cost forty

guineas_?"' And in the _Guardian_ (No. 97), 'This gave me some

encouragement; so that to mend the matter, I bought a fine flaxen long

wig that cost me thirty guineas.' But there were wigs and wigs, and

probably these highly priced ones were somewhat abnormal; at all

events, ordinary people could not have afforded them, for we find

Swift loud in his laments about paying _three guineas_ for one.[188]

'It has cost me three guineas to day for a periwig. I am undone! It

was made by a Leicester lad, who married Mrs. Worrall's daughter,

where my mother lodged; so I thought it would be cheap, and especially

since he lives in the city.'

[Footnote 188: _Journal to Stella_, let. 13.]

It must not be imagined that the periwig was the only variety. On the

contrary, there were several kinds of wig. 'I had an humble Servant

last Summer, who the first time he declared himself, was in a Full

Bottom'd Wigg; but the Day after, to my no small Surprize, he accosted

me in a thin Natural one. I received him, at this our second

Interview, as a perfect Stranger, but was extreamly confounded, when

his speech discovered who he was. I resolved, therefore, to fix his

Face in my Memory for the future; but as I was walking in the Park the

same Evening, he appeared to me in one of those Wiggs that I think you

call a _Night Cap_, which had altered him more effectually than

before. He afterwards played a Couple of Black Riding Wiggs upon me,

with the same Success,'[189] etc. The 'Night Cap' wig was a sort of

periwig, with a short tie and a small round head. Then there was a

'Campaign' wig, which was imported from France; and this was made very

full, was curled, and eighteen inches in length in the front, with

drop locks. In the contemporary prints of Marlborough's victories, the

back part of the wig is sometimes shown as being put in a black silk

bag. We get an approximate idea of their value from the following

advertisement: 'Lost &c. a Campaign Perriwig, fair Hair with a large

Curl, value about 7 guineas,' etc.

[Footnote 189: _Spectator_, No. 319 (Budgell).]

I have come across one mention of a 'Spanish Wigg,' but as this was

worn by a runaway ship's apprentice, it was probably of foreign

manufacture, and the species had no place here. Lastly, there was the

'Bob' wig, or attempt to imitate the natural head of hair. This wig

was mostly in use among the lower orders; and many are the

descriptions of it, and its various colours, in the advertisements for

army deserters. But the better class also used it. We have seen, in

the _Spectator_, No. 319, how a man wore 'a thin Natural' wig; so also

we read in Steele's 'Lying Lover,' 'What shall I do for powder for

this smart Bob?'

The proper quality, and quantity, of his powder, must have been a

serious weight upon the mind of a beau. Its groundwork, or basis, was

starch, very finely ground and sifted; but this was adulterated with

burnt alabaster, plaster of Paris (which was called in the trade _Old

Doctor_), whitening, fine flour, flour from pearl barley, and other

things; and it was scented--well, we should think to a sickening

degree--with ambergris, musk and civet, violets, orris root, rose,

bergamot, orange flowers, and jessamine. And there were different

coloured hair powders. The black was made with starch, Japan ink, and

ivory black; a cheaper sort was made of pounded coal-dust. Brown was

made with starch and umber--according to the shade required. Grey was

produced by mixing some of the black powder with more starch, and

adding a little smalts.

Gay presents us with a curious little piece of economy:--

When suffocating Mists obscure the Morn

_Let thy worst Wig, long us'd to Storms, be worn_;

This knows the powder'd Footman, and with Care,

Beneath his flapping Hat, secures his Hair.[190]

[Footnote 190: _Trivia_, book 1.]

We are indebted also to Gay[191] for the following vivid description

of the manner in which the beaus were robbed of their cherished

chevelure:--

[Footnote 191: _Ibid._ book 3.]

Nor is thy Flaxen Wigg with Safety worn;

High on the Shoulder, in the Basket born,

Lurks the sly Boy; whose Hand to Rapine bred,

Plucks off the curling Honours of the Head.

This was an ingenious plan, but it was almost equalled in the very

early years of George I. by a practice which sprang up, of cutting a

hole in the leather backs of the carriages, boldly clutching the

occupant's wig, and dragging it through the hole.

Some few had the courage to wear their own hair, and here is a

hairdresser's advertisement on the subject:[192] '_Next door to the_

Golden Bell _in St._ Bride's Lane Fleet Street, Liveth _Lydia

Beecroft_, who Cutteth and Curleth Ladies, Gentlemen's, and Childrens

Hair; and selleth a fine Pomatum, which is mixt with Ingredients of

her own making, that if the Hair be never so Thin, it makes it grow

Thick; if Short, it makes it grow Long: If any Gentlemens or Childrens

Hair be never so Lank, she makes it Curle in a little time like a

Periwig. She waits on Ladies, if desir'd, on Tuesdays and Fridays; the

other Days of the Week, she is to be spoken with at Home.' So that we

see the 'Professors' of those days were very similar to their

congeners of ours, and had invaluable nostrums--'prepared only by,'

etc. Bear's grease used to be imported from Russia; but a spurious

kind was also sold, made out of dog's, or goat's, fat, or rancid

hog's lard. There were common, hard, black, and brown pomatums, to say

nothing of powders and liquids for thickening the hair, principally

made of burdock root and small beer, and a powder for cleansing the

hair, made with cassia wood and white vitriol.

[Footnote 192: _Harl. MSS._ 5931, 242.]

We next come to the neckcloth, as no collar or band of the shirt was

shown; and the one most in fashion was the 'Steinkirk, so called from

the battle of that name, which was fought on Aug. 3, 1692, when the

English under William III. were defeated, and the campaign broken up.

This style of neckcloth was introduced from Paris, and it was highly

fashionable there, because its negligent style was popularly supposed

to imitate the disordered dress of the victorious French generals, who

were so eager to rush into the fight that they did not stop to finish

dressing--or, at all events, to tie their neckcloths. It was a very

graceful fashion, and the ends, which were laced or fringed, were

sometimes tucked in the waistcoat or shirt. They are frequently

alluded to as 'snuff grimed.' Ladies also wore them, as in 'The

Careless Husband' Lady Easy 'takes her Steinkirk from her Neck and

lays it gently over his Head.'

And there was the 'Berdash.' 'I have prepared a treatise against the

Cravat and berdash, which I am told is not ill done.'[193] Some have

imagined that the word haberdasher is derived from this neckcloth, but

it is too ridiculous to think of for a moment, as there were

haberdashers as early as Edward the Third's reign, and at the time of

which we write there were 'haberdashers of hats.' In the epilogue to

Mrs. Centlivre's 'Platonick Lady,' 'design'd to be spoken by Mrs.

Bracegirdle but came too late,' it is mentioned--

[Footnote 193: _Guardian_, No. 10.]

Yet, tell me, Sirs, don't you as nice appear

With your false Calves, _Bardash_, and Fav'rites here?[194]

[pointing to her forehead.]

[Footnote 194: Small curls on the forehead.]

The _Daily Courant_, Nov. 4, 1708, says: 'Also very fine Muslin

Neckcloths to be sold at 5_s._ a Piece.'

A gentleman's shirt was of fine holland, and was somewhat dear--the

fronts were worn very open, and the ruffles were not laced, at least

for ordinary wear: this piece of extravagance was reserved for a later

time. Showing so much of the shirt necessitated clean linen, but it is

hardly likely that many followed the example of Tom Modely,[195] whose

'business in this world is to be well dressed; and the greatest

circumstance that is to be recorded in his annals is that he wears

_twenty shirts a week_.' That they were costly, we may judge from the

fact that Swift was not extravagant in his dress, and that he bought

them first-hand in Holland, by means of his friend Harrison, who was

under great obligations to him. '28 Feb. 1718. I have sent to Holland

for a dozen shirts,'[196] etc.--and again he writes: 'Jan. 31, 1713.

I paid him (Harrison) while he was with me seven guineas, _in part_ of

a dozen of shirts he bought me in Holland.'

[Footnote 195: _Tatler_, No. 166.]

[Footnote 196: _Journal to Stella._]

This having the waistcoat unbuttoned to show the shirt is very

frequently mentioned, but it was eminently a young man's practice. A

lady, speaking of her husband, says: 'You must know, he tells me that

he finds London is a much more healthy place than the Country; for he

sees several of his old acquaintance and schoolfellows are here _young

fellows with fair full-bottomed perriwigs_. I could scarce keep him

this morning from going out _open breasted_.'[197] Again[198]: 'There

is a fat fellow whom I have long remarked, wearing his breast open in

the midst of winter, out of an affectation of youth. I have therefore

sent him just now the following letter in my physical capacity:--

[Footnote 197: _Tatler_, No. 95.]

[Footnote 198: _Ibid._ 246.]

'"Sir,

"From the twentieth instant to the first of May next, both days

inclusive, I beg of you to button your waistcoat from your collar

to your waistband."'

It was supposed to have a most killing effect on the fair sex. 'A

sincere heart has not made half so many conquests as an open

_waistcoat_.'[199] The waistcoats, otherwise, were seldom mentioned;

they were long, but not so long as they afterwards became; and, with

the exception of very fine suits, seem to have been quite plain. One

or two advertisements of fine clothes will tell us a great deal about

them. 'Lost &c.--a Red Waistcoat Wove in with Gold, 2 Cravats, and 2

pair of Ruffles, 1 being grounded Lace very fine, the other

Colebatteen.' 'Stolen &c.--a new Cinnamon Colour Cloth Coat, Wastcoat

and Breeches, Embroider'd with Silver 4 or 5 inches deep down before,

and on the Sleeves, and round the Pocket Holes and the Pockets and

Knees of the Breeches. They are lin'd with a Sky Blue Silk.' 'Left in

a Hackney Coach &c. a light brown colour'd Hanging Coat, with long

Sleeves, upper Cape Black Velvet, with Gold Buttons and Button Holes.'

'Taken from a Gentleman's House &c. a Dove Coloured Cloth Suit

embroider'd with Silver, and a pair of Silk Stockings of the same

Colour; a Grey Cloth Suit with Gold Buttons and Holes; a Silk Drugget

Salmon Coloured Suit lin'd with white Silk; a Silver Brocade Waistcoat

trim'd with a knotted Silver Fringe, and lin'd with white Silk; A

floured Satin Nightgown, lin'd with a Pink coloured Lustring, and a

Cap and Slippers of the Same; a Thread Satin Nightgown, striped red

and white, and lin'd with a Yellow Persian, and a Cap of the same; a

yellow Damask Nightgown lin'd with Blue Persian; a Scarlet Silk net

Sash to tye a Nightgown.' These were clothes fit for 'the prince of

puppies, Colonel Edgworth,'[200] who went one day to see his brother

who lived but a day's journey from him; yet he took with him a led

horse loaded with portmanteaus. On his arrival, these were unpacked,

and three suits of clothes, each finer than the other, were displayed

on chairs, his nightgown on another, and his shaving plate all put

out. Next morning he appeared at breakfast with his boots on, and his

brother asked him where he was going for a ride before dinner. He

replied that he was going home; that he had only just come to see him,

and must go back at once, which he did. The poor man afterwards died

mad in the common Bridewell at Dublin.

[Footnote 199: _Ibid._ 151.]

[Footnote 200: _Journal to Stella_, letter 6.]

Noblemen wore their stars on their coats, and their ribands, but it

must have been a Collar day when the following happened: 'On Wednesday

morning last between 11 and 12 at St. James's Gate, was dropt from a

Nobleman's Coller of Esses, an enamel'd George; if brought to Mr.

Mead's, a Goldsmith, at the Black Lyon within Temple Bar, shall have a

Guinea Reward, and no Questions ask'd.'[201] The reward does not

indicate reckless prodigality on the part of the nobleman.

[Footnote 201: _Postboy_, Feb. 25, 1714.]

We have seen that there was a great variety of colours in men's

clothing. A little curiosity in colour must not pass unnoticed.

The City Prentices, those upstart Beaus

In short spruce Puffs and _Vigo_ coloured clothes.[202]

--a colour which might puzzle for some time, were it not for the huge

quantity of _snuff_ captured at Vigo in 1702.

[Footnote 202: Epilogue to Mrs. Centlivre's _Love's

Contrivance_, ed. 1703.]

There were clothes of Drap du Barri and D'Oyley suits, so called after

the famous haberdasher, whose name still survives in the dessert

napkin. They were made of drugget and sagathay, camlet, but the

majority of men wore cloth. It is scarcely necessary to describe the

shape of the coat, for the illustrations show it better than any

printed description. There is but one peculiarity I would point

out--that in 1711 the coats used to be _wired_ to make them stick out.

'The Skirt of your fashionable Coats forms as large a Circumference as

our Petticoats; as these are set out with Whalebone, so are those with

Wire, to encrease and sustain the Bunch of Fold that hangs down on

each side.'[203]

[Footnote 203: _Spectator_, No. 145.]

The cheap clothiers lived in Monmouth Street, St. Giles (now called

Dudley Street), and there was no love lost between them and their

higher-priced brethren, as the following advertisement shows: 'Whereas

the Monmouth Street Men and other Taylors in and about the City, have

by divers Advertisements in the Postman and other publick Prints, and

by Bills given from Door to Door, boasted what mighty Pennyworths

Persons may have of them, in selling Sagathy and Druggit Suits, the

smallest sized Men for 3 Guineas, and the largest sizes for £3 10_s._

and Men's Cloth Suits at £4 and £4 10_s._ This is to acquaint all

Persons that have occasion for such Suits, if they please to make

Tryal, may have the same as Cheap in Birchin lane, and as well and as

fashionable made, and may be assured of seeing more choice both of

broad Cloaths, Camblet, Druggits and Sagathys than many of those

Upstarts can pretend to.'[204]

[Footnote 204: _Postman_, Nov. 15, 1707.]

A perusal of the advertisements of these 'Monmouth Street Men'

confirms these prices, and one will serve as a type of all. 'At the

sign of the _Golden Heart_ in _Monmouth Street_ in St. _Giles'_ in the

Fields. All Gentlemen and Others, may be Furnished with all sorts of

Cloathes and chuse their Patterns and have them made very well and

Fashionable, of Cloath, Druggets, or Sagathie, the first size Drugget

or Sagathie at _Three Pounds_, the second size at _Three Guineas_, and

the largest size at _Three Pound Ten Shillings_; with all sorts of

Cloath Suits very Reasonable, and Cheaper than any hath yet pretended

to make them: With all sorts of Plain Liveries at _Three Pound

Fifteen_ and _Four Pound_ a Suit, and Laced Liveries proportionable;

As likewise all sorts of Camblet Suits very Reasonable, and Campaign

Coats at _Fifteen_ or _Sixteen Shillings_ a Coat; All sorts and sizes

of Boys Cloathes very Good and Cheap.'[205] In reading these

advertisements, and indeed in all quotations of price, the different

value of money--then and now--should never be forgotten; three pounds

being equivalent to seven or eight. So that, according to our ideas,

clothing was dearer then than now.

[Footnote 205: _Harl. MSS._ 5931, 205.]

[Illustration: '4 Paire For a Shilling, Holland Socks!']

In the country, owing to the very little correspondence between it and

the metropolis, of course the fashions were some time in reaching

remote distances, and were equally long in departing from thence, to

make way for new ones. Addison humorously describes the fashions for

men in Cornwall in 1711. 'From this place, during our progress through

the most western parts of the kingdom, we fancied ourselves in King

Charles the Second's reign, the people having made very little

variations in their dress since that time. The smartest of the country

Squires appear still in the Monmouth Cock, and when they go a wooing,

whether they have any post in the militia or not, they generally put

on a red coat. We were indeed very much surprised, at the place we lay

at last night, to meet with a gentleman that had accoutred himself in

a night cap wig, a coat with long pockets and slit sleeves, and a pair

of shoes with high scallop tops; but we soon found by his conversation

that he was a person who laughed at the ignorance and rusticity of the

country people, and was resolved to live and die in the mode.'[206]

[Footnote 206: _Spectator_, 129.]

Of men's breeches, and the materials of which they were made, very

little mention is made; but the stocking is frequently brought to

notice. They were of cloth, knitted woollen, thread, and silk. The

latter were of all colours, to suit the beaus' costumes, but black

silk was the wear of your well-to-do citizen, professional man, or

gentleman. Misson says 'The _English_ Silk Stockings are one of its

famous Merchandizes;' and solemn old Thoresby records how he and his

cousin 'bought each a pair of black silk rolling stockings in

Westminster Hall.' There is no mention of gaiters as a protection

against cold, rain, or mud. Addison grumbles that 'another informs me

of a pair of silver Garters buckled below the knee, that have lately

been seen at the _Rainbow_ Coffee house in _Fleet Street_,'[207] and

considers it his mission 'to Correct those Depraved Sentiments that

give Birth to all those little Extravagances which appear in their

outward Dress and Behaviour.'

[Footnote 207: _Ibid._ 16.]

With regard to shoes, there seems to have been much foppery. Red heels

are specially railed against by the _Spectator_. The beaus wore the

heels very high, as indeed was the fashion with the fair sex. Gay

speaks, among his _de omnibus rebus_, of shoes, and gives the

following advice[208]:--

[Footnote 208: _Trivia_, book 1.]

When the _Black Youth_ at chosen Stands rejoice,

And _Clean your Shoes_ resounds from ev'ry Voice;

When late their miry Sides Stage Coaches show,

And their stiff Horses thro' the Town move slow;

When all the _Mall_ in leafy Ruin lies,

And Damsels first renew their Oyster Cries:

Then let the prudent Walker Shoes provide

Not of the _Spanish_ or _Morocco_ Hide;

The wooden Heel may raise the Dancer's Bound,

And with the 'scallop'd Top his Step be crown'd:

Let firm, well hammer'd Soles protect thy Feet

Thro' freezing Snows, and Rains, and Soaking Sleet.

Should the big Laste extend the Shoe too wide,

Each Stone will wrench th' unwary Step aside:

The sudden Turn may stretch the swelling Vein,

Thy cracking Joint unhinge, or Ankle sprain;

And when too short the modish Shoes are worn,

You'll judge the Seasons by your shooting Corn.

Shoe-strings had gone out, and buckles were in fashion; but they had

not assumed the proportions they did in after years. Boots were never

worn except for riding; and there was in this reign very little

improvement on the heavy and clumsy riding-boot of William the Third's

time, which was still worn by Marlborough and his cavalry. Many are

the pairs, with their spurs, that are advertised for as being left in

coaches.

[Illustration: Jack Boot.]

In those days of bad pavements and defective sewage, when men had

hardly begun the general use of the chair, and a coach was, as now,

the luxury of the few, shoeblacks were a necessity; and, although a

man might, like the Templar in 'Sir Roger de Coverley,' 'have his

shoes rubbed and his periwig powdered at the Barber's, as you go unto

the Rose,' yet a large number of '_Black Youth_ at chosen Stands

rejoice; and _Clean your Shoes_ resounds from ev'ry Voice.' They were

very numerous; and from them is derived our word _blackguard_, for so

were they called about Charing Cross and White Hall.

[Illustration: Shoe-black.]

There were different kinds of blacking, but, judging from the

dispraise awarded to each other's goods by rival manufacturers, they

could have been neither pleasant nor effective. 'London Fucus for

Shoes; being an unparallel'd Composition of the most pure and rich

Blacks, Choice Oils, &c., and is a thing so adapted to this Use, that

the World never yet produc'd the like Invention, having gain'd a

General Applause, causing the straitest Shooes to wear with delight

and ease; beautifies them to admiration, preserves the Leather from

cracking or rotting to the very last; and frees the Feet from all

Pains, Corns, Swellings, &c.... Price 12_d._ a Roll. Note, one Roll

serves one Person near half a year.' And then the famous 'Spanish

Blacking' advertised, and called the poor 'Fucus' names.

The little odds and ends of male attire must be noted. Gloves, for

instance, were in constant use, and we have seen how prodigally they

were given away at funerals. The ire of the _Spectator_ was aroused by

a custom, then just brought up, of edging them with silver fringe, but

this luxurious practice does not seem to have obtained for very long.

The pocket-handkerchiefs, owing to the prevalence of the practice of

snuff-taking, were nearly always of silk, though cambric was used; and

although we do not hear of 'Moral Pocket-handkerchiefs,' they were

somewhat similarly utilised, as the following advertisement shows: 'A

Silk Handkerchief Printed, with a Draught of the Roads of England

according to Mr. Ogleby's Survey, shewing the Roads and distance in

measured Miles from London to the several Cities and Towns in England.

Also the Victory Handkerchief, which gives an account of the Success

of 5 most glorious Victories obtain'd by the Confederates over the

French. Ornamented with the Arms of the Empire and Great Britain,

Prussia and Holland: They will both Wash in a weak Lather of Soap

without Prejudice. Price 2_s._ 6_d._' Others were printed with the

Queen's Speech to Parliament, April 5, 1710; the standards and ensigns

taken from the French, with the queen's effigies at full length; Dr.

Sacheverell and the six bishops who voted with him; the four seasons

of the year with the sun in the centre, curiously ornamented; and the

last one I can find advertised in Anne's reign was one printed on

white silk with 'An Abstract of the Peace made between England and

France, with the lively Effigies of all the Confederates, Princes and

the several Plenipotentiaries at Utrecht.'

In the early part of Anne's reign it was fashionable for men to wear

muffs, as it had been ever since Charles the Second's time. Ward

(1703) says: 'What is he in the long Whig, with his Fox skin Muff upon

his Button, and his Pocket book in his Hand? Why he (replied my

schoolfellow) is a Beau.' But they seem to have become less popular in

1710 (_vide_ _Tatler_, No. 155). 'I saw he was reduced to extreme

poverty, by certain shabby superfluities in his dress: for,

notwithstanding that it was a very sultry day for the time of the

year, he wore a loose great Coat and a _Muff_,' etc. Yet in 1711

Addison writes (_Spectator_, No. 16): 'I have receiv'd a Letter,

desiring me to be very satyrical upon the little Muff that is now in

Fashion.'

Every gentleman carried a sword, and we are able to get accurate

descriptions of them, from the very numerous descriptions of them in

the advertisements of lost and stolen swords--how they used to lose

them! Probably the company at the tavern or club was jovial, the

claret good, and the way home was badly lit, and in the morning the

silver-hilted sword was a-missing. I wonder if they ever got them

back? They cried after them loudly enough, although they did not offer

great rewards, a guinea or so at the outside. Gay thus warns the

walker in the streets:--

Where the Mob gathers, swiftly shoot along,

Nor idly mingle in the noisy Throng.

Lur'd by the Silver Hilt, amid the Swarm,

The subtil Artist will thy Side disarm.

With a beau, his sword, as every other part of his dress, received his

special attention, and he very seldom was without it, except when

dancing. His sword-knot was of some gay colour, and was very long; and

he was solicitous as to the carriage of his sword. 'But my sword--does

it hang careless?' asks Bookwit in the 'Lying Lover'; and yet withal

the hilts very seldom seem to have been of much value, either

diamond-cut steel, gilt, or plain silver hilts. The following are some

of the better sort, and of the most artistic merit. 'A large plain

Silver hilted Sword with Scrowls and gilt in parts, with a broad

gutter'd hollow Blade gilt at the shoulder, and the edges ground very

sharp and a strong silver gilt handle.' 'A Hanger with a fine Aggat

Haft, Belt, and Silver buckle.' 'A Silver gilt Sword, done with

several Figures, with a Chequer Gold handle done one half of it with a

Black Ribbon.' 'A Silver and Gold Hilted Sword wrought with Figures

and Images about the handle, being tyed with a broad black Ribbon, the

Blade broad from the Hilt halfway, and stain'd with blew and Gold.' 'A

Silver and Gold hilted Sword of a Trophy Pattern, with a man on

Horseback on the Middle of the Pommel, and the same in the Shell, with

the Figures lying down on each side of the Horse, the Button of the

Pommel being in Squares.'

Here is an advertisement which shows how a poor innocent was led

astray: 'June 24, 1712. Whereas a Gentleman coming to Bradbery's

Hazard Table last Night, and not a Gamester, but brought by an

Acquaintance to see the Nature of it, lost his Silver hilted Sword,

which some of the Company took from his side; This is to give Notice

that any body that produces the Sword to Mr. John Waters, Perfumer, in

the Strand, over against the Talbot Inn; or to Mr. Hosier, over

against the Bunch of Grapes in New Street, Fetter Lane, shall have

10_s._ Reward, and no Questions ask'd; and if the Sword is not

produc'd, the Man that keeps the Table will be indited.'

Towards the end of Anne's reign swords were worn of a preposterous

length, which excited the satire of the _Guardian_.[209] 'When Jack

Lizard made his first trip to town from the university, he thought he

could never bring up with him enough of the gentleman; this I soon

perceived in the first visit he made me, when I remember, he came

scraping in at the door, encumbered with a bar of Cold iron so

irksomely long, that it banged against his Calf, and jarred upon his

right heel, as he Walked, and came rattling behind him as he ran down

the stairs. But his sister Annabella's raillery soon cured him of this

awkward air, by telling him that his sword was only fit for going up

stairs, or walking up hill, and that she shrewdly suspected he had

stolen it out of the College kitchen.'

[Footnote 209: _Guardian_, No. 143.]

Equal, at least, in importance to the sword, was the cane, 'the nice

conduct' of which was part of a gentleman's education--and, if swords

were plentifully lost or stolen, how many more despairing owners

mourned their canes? There were useful, as well as ornamental canes.

If the Strong Cane support thy walking Hand,

Chairmen no longer shall the Wall command;

Ev'n sturdy Car-men shall thy Nod obey,

And rattling Coaches stop to make thee Way:

This shall direct thy Cautious Tread aright,

Though not one glaring Lamp enliven Night.

Let Beaus their Canes with Amber tipt produce,

Be theirs for empty Show, but thine for use.[210]

[Footnote 210: _Trivia_, book 1.]

The majority of those lost were hardly worth advertising for; but we

will pick out a few, as specimens of what the better sort were like:

'A fine Cane with a Gold Head, engraved with a Cypher and Crown on the

top of it.[210] 'A Cane with an Aggot head.' 'A small cane with an

Amber head and a Black Silk Ribbond in it, a Princes Metal Hoop, and a

Silver Ferril at the bottom.' 'A Cane with a Silver Head and a Black

Ribbon in it, the top of it Amber, crack'd in two or three places,

part of the Head to turn round, and in it a Perspective Glass.' 'A

Cane with a croched Head, a Silver Ferrel and a Silver ring.' 'A Cane

with a Silver Head, with the Figure of the Tower of Babel upon it,

done in Chaced Work.' 'A Cane with a Silver Head and Scent Box, and a

Ferril of Silver at the Bottom.'

His snuff-box, too, was an object of his solicitude, though, as the

habit of taking snuff had but just come into vogue, there were no

collections of them, and no beau had ever dreamed of criticising a box

as did Lord Petersham, as 'a nice Summer box.' So many of them have

come down to us that they need no description, and I may merely say

that those of the middle classes were chiefly of silver, or

tortoise-shell, or mother-of-pearl; sometimes of 'Aggat'--or with a

'Moco Stone' in the lid. A beau would sometimes either have a

looking-glass, or the portrait of a lady inside the lid.

We have seen how proud the beau was of his watch, which he wore in a

fob, or pocket, in his breeches. A seal or two, generally of small

value, and a watch key, were attached to it by a ribbon; chains,

either of gold, silver, or steel, being sparingly used. The seals, of

course, were then necessary, as, there being no gummed envelopes,

every letter had to be properly sealed, either by wax or wafer.

Tompion was the great watch-maker, and he lived at the Three Crowns,

at the corner of Water Lane in Fleet Street, where he was afterwards

succeeded by George Graham. The value of Tompion's watches may be

gathered from the fact that from seven to ten guineas were generally

offered for their recovery when lost, or from eighteen to twenty-five

guineas of our money.

The watch of that day, and indeed of the whole Georgian era, consisted

of the watch proper, and an outer ornamental case, which was lined

with a pad of coloured velvet or satin, to make it fit tight to the

watch. We now never see watch-cases made of other materials than the

precious metals, or imitations thereof; but then, beautiful cases were

made of shagreen of various colours, or tortoiseshell inlaid, or

studded, with gold. Some beautiful specimens may be seen in the

library of the Corporation of the City of London, in the Clockmakers'

Company's collection.

[Illustration: A Watch Riband.]

As umbrellas were not used by men, as being too effeminate, and

india-rubber waterproofing was only to be discovered more than a

century later, men, in Anne's reign, had to put their trust in good

broadcloth coats or cloaks.

Nor should it prove thy less important Care,

To Chuse a proper Coat for Winter's Wear.

Now in thy Trunk thy _Doily_ Habit fold,

The silken Drugget ill can fence the cold;

The Frieze's spongy Nap is soak'd with Rain,

And Show'rs soon drench the Camlet's cockled Grain.

True _Witney_ Broad Cloth with its Shag unshorn,

Unpierc'd is in the lasting Tempest worn:

Be this the Horse man's Fence; for who would wear

Amid the Town the Spoils of _Russia's_ Bear?

Within the _Roquelaure's_ Clasp thy Hands are pent,

Hands, that stretch'd forth invading Harms prevent.

Let the looped _Bavaroy_ the Fop embrace,

Or his deep Cloak be spatter'd o'er with Lace.

That Garment best the Winter's Rage defends,

Whose shapeless Form in ample Plaits depends;

By various Names[211] in various Counties known,

Yet held in all the true _Surtout_ alone:

Be thine of _Kersey_ firm, though small the Cost,

Then brave unwet the Rain, unchill'd the Frost.[212]

[Footnote 211: _A Joseph_, _a Wrap Rascal_, etc.]

[Footnote 212: _Trivia_, book 1.]

Scarlet seems to have been the favourite colour for the roquelaure or

cloak, and some must have been 'exceeding magnifical, scarlet rocklows

and rocliers, with gold buttons and loops, being advertised as lost.

Ah! the men of that time! they were always losing something.

In doors, in their hours of ease, the precious furbelow wig was

discarded, and their closely cropped or shaved heads were clad in

handsomely worked caps--called _night caps_, although only worn in the

daytime; some kind of night cap having been an article of dress ever

since the time of Elizabeth. They were as common presents from ladies

to gentlemen, as a pair of slippers, or a smoking-cap would be now.

Says Swift, 'Your fine Cap, Madam Dingley, is too little, and too hot.

I will have that fur taken off; I wish it were far enough; and my old

Velvet cap is good for nothing. Is it velvet under the fur? I was

feeling but cannot find; if it be, it will do without it, else I will

face it; but then I must buy new velvet: but may be I may beg a piece.

What shall I do?'[213]

[Footnote 213: _Journal to Stella_, letter 8.]

[Illustration: 'Old Cloaks, Suits, or Coats!']

[Illustration: 'Old Satin, Old Taffety, or Velvet!']

The loose dressing gown, too, was called a _night gown_--why, I know

not, because it was not worn at night. 'You must know I am in my night

gown every morning betwixt six and seven, and Patrick is forced to ply

me fifty times before I can get on my nightgown.'[214] They were made

of costly materials as well as 'Callicoe'; indeed, they were generally

of brocade, or some embroidered material. Men used even, early in the

day, to lounge into the coffee-houses dressed in them. One example

will show both their price and the materials of which they were

sometimes made. 'Whereas on Tuesday the 23d of December last, 3 Night

Gowns was agreed for, and taken away from a Shop in Exchange Alley,

viz. One Man's Night-Gown of yellow Sattin with Red and white Flowers

lined with a pale Blue Sattin, Value £6 10_s._ One ditto of blue

Ground Sattin, with red and white Flowers, lined with a plain yellow

Sattin, Value £5 10_s._ One ditto of red and white broad stript Thread

Sattin, lined with a green and white Persian, Value £2 10_s._ for

which the Payment left was not satisfactory. If the Person who bought

the said Gowns will give notice to Mr. Gray at the Rainbow and Punch

bowl in Gilt Spur Street, so as they may be had again, shall have 6

Guineas Reward, and no Questions asked.'

[Footnote 214: _Journal to Stella_, letter 8.]

As the ultimate fate of all these fine clothes was the old clothes

man, a picture of him will as appropriately close this portion of the

disquisition on male dress, as one of his mate will open that on

female costume.

CHAPTER XIV.

WOMEN'S DRESS.

The commode -- Description of ladies' dress -- The petticoat --

The bodice -- A costly wardrobe -- Underlinen -- Dressing like

men -- Scents -- Patches -- Patching Whig and Tory -- Masks --

The hood -- High-crowned hats -- Furs -- Umbrellas -- Pattens --

The fan -- Mobs -- Shopping -- Stuffs -- List of Indian stuffs --

Lace -- Linens -- Tallymen -- Jewellery -- Diamonds -- Plate --

Children's jewellery.

The 'commode' must have been so named on the same _lucus à non

lucendo_ principle as the night cap and gown; for a more inconvenient

headdress, perhaps, was never invented. It originated in the Court of

Louis XIV., and was there called a _fontange_ because it had been

introduced by Mademoiselle Fontange.[215] It was also named a 'head'

or a 'top knot' and was made of rows of plaited muslin, or lace,

stiffened with wire, one over the other, diminishing as they rose.

During the reign, their fashion and shape altered very much, as is

noticed by Addison: 'There is not so variable a thing in Nature as a

Lady's Head Dress: Within my own Memory I have known it rise and fall

above thirty Degrees. About ten years ago it shot up to a very great

Height, insomuch that the Female Part of our Species were much taller

than the men.'[216] The numerous examples given in the illustrations

of this book render any further reference to the 'commode'

unnecessary, as the reader will there see it depicted in every stage.

The cut on this page is only given because it shows it on a larger

scale than any other, and is, besides, interesting, as forming one of

a pack of cards (1707).

[Footnote 215: It is said to have had its origin in a

hunting party, where the hair of the royal favourite got

loose. She hurriedly tied her laced handkerchief round her

head; and the effect produced was so pretty, and artistic,

that it delighted Louis XIV., who begged her to keep it so

arranged for the remainder of the day--a hint not wasted on

the other ladies, who next day appeared 'coiffées à la

Fontange.']

[Footnote 216: _Spectator_, No. 98, June 21, 1711.]

[Illustration: A Commode.]

Ward gives us his definition of a _Belle_, or 'Modish Lady,' as he

prefers to call her, who was--

At _Hackney_, _Stepney_, or at _Chealsea_ Bred,

In Dancing perfect and in Plays well Read.

..............................................

Impatient of Extreams, with Pride half Craz'd,

Then must her Head, a Story higher be rais'd.

In her next Gaudy Gown, her Sweeping Train

Is order'd to be made as long again;

All things must vary from the common Rode,

And reach a Size beyond the Decent Mode:

Thus Monstrously Adorn'd, to make a show, }

She walks in State, and Courtsies very low, }

And is a proper Mistress for the _Fool_, a _Beau_.[217] }

[Footnote 217: _London Spy._]

We get a very good, and at the same time humorous, description of

female dress in 1707 out of Mrs. Centlivre's play of 'The Platonick

Lady,' wherein one of the characters is Mrs. Dowdy, 'a Somersetshire

Widow, come to Town to learn Breeding.'

Act. 3. Enter Mrs. _Dowdy_, Mrs. _Brazon_ the Matchmaker, Mrs.

_Wheedle_ the Milliner, Mrs. _Turnup_ the Manto Maker, Mrs.

_Crispit_ the Tire Woman, and _Peeper_, her Maid. They all seem

Talking to her.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. We'l, we'l la you now, la you now, Shour and Shour

you'l Gally me.

_Turnup._ Here's your Ladyships Manto and Petticoat.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. Ladyship, why what a main difference is here

between this Town and the Country. I was never call'd above

Forsooth in all my Life. Mercy on me, why you ha spoil'd my

Petticoat, mum: zee, _Peeper_, she has cut it in a Thousand Bits.

_Peeper._ Oh, that's the Fashion, these are Furbelows Madam--'tis

the prettiest made Coat.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. Furbelows, a murrain take 'em, they spoil all the

Zilk. Good strange, shour London Women do nothing but study

Vashions, they never mind their Dairy I warrant 'em.

_Turnup._ Ladies have no other employment for their Brain--and

our Art lies in hiding the defects of Nature. Furbelows upwards,

were devised for those that have no hips, and too large ones,

brought up the full bottom'd Furbelows.

_Milliner._ And a long Neck and a hollow Breast, first made use

of the Stinkirk--and here's a delicate one for your Ladyship. I

have a Book in my pocket just come from _France_, Intituled, _The

Elements of the Toylet_.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. Elements, mercy on me! what do they get up in the

Sky now?

_Peeper._ A Learned Author to be sure,--let me see that, Mrs.

_Wheedle_.

_Milliner._ Here, Mrs. _Peeper_, 'tis the Second Volume; the

first only shews an Alphabetical Index of the most notable Pieces

which enter into the Composition of a Commode.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. Well, I shall ne'er mind these hard Names; Oh Sirs,

_Peeper_, what swinging Cathedral Headgeer is this?

_Peeper._ Oh, Modish French Night Clothes; Madam, what's

here--all sorts of dresses painted to the Life. Ha, ha, ha, head

cloaths to shorten the Face. Favourites to raise the Forehead--to

heighten flat cheeks flying Cornets--four Pinners to help narrow

Foreheads and long Noses, and very forward, to make the Eyes look

Languishing.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. Ay--that, _Peeper_, double it down, I love

Languishing.

_Peeper._ Take it and read it at your leisure, Madam.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. I shall never ha done shour zeeing all my vine

things. Hy day, what's these two pieces of Band Box for?

_Turnup._ 'Tis Past board, Madam, for your Ladyship's Rump.[218]

[Footnote 218: The extremely _bouffée_ furbelows were called

rumpt furbelows, and the brooches inserted in the centre

were called rump jewels or rumphlets.]

Mrs. _Dowdy_. A Rump, ho, ho, ho, has Cousin _Isbel_ a Rump,

_Peeper_?

_Peeper._ Certainly Madam.

Mrs. _Dowdy_. If Cousin has one, as I hope to be kiss'd, I'll

have it, Mrs. Turnup.

It is hardly within the scope of this work to follow the varying

fashions of the reign, so one more extract must suffice. It is from

'The Humours of the Army,' by Charles Shadwell (a son, or nephew, of

the Poet Laureate, 1713): 'But there are some fashionable Creatures at

the other End of the Town, that give great Hopes of their being very

odd and Whimsical; for their Head dresses are no bigger than the

Skull-caps they us'd to wear; their Petticoats are up to their knees;

their Stays up to their chins; and their Fans up to their Nostrils;

and the mody Shrug makes 'em wear their shoulders up to their Ears;

their Lappets reach down to the Frenching of their Petticoats, which

are widen'd with Abundance of Whalebone; They stoop forward when they

should walk upright; they shuffle along a tip Toe, curtsey on one

Side, smile on those they would ridicule, and look very grave on their

intimate acquaintances.'

Begin my Muse and sing in _Epick_ Strain

The PETTICOAT; (nor shalt thou sing in vain,

The PETTICOAT will sure reward thy Pain!)[219]

[Footnote 219: _The Petticoat; an Heroi-Comical Poem_, by

Joseph Gay (pseudo for J. Durant de Brevel), 1716.]

Before its introduction, women to improve their figures, or to follow

the fashion, wore false hips, but these speedily disappeared when the

hooped petticoat made its appearance, about 1709. Addison wrote a very

funny paper, a mock trial of it,[220] in which the arguments for and

against are duly heard, and he winds up his judgment with 'I consider

women as a beautiful romantic animal, that may be adorned with furs

and feathers, pearls and diamonds, ores and silks. The lynx shall cast

its skin at her feet to make her a tippet; the peacock, parrot and

swan shall pay contribution to her muff, the sea shall be searched for

shells, and the rocks for gems; and every part of nature furnish out

its share towards the embellishment of a creature that is the most

consummate work of it. All this I shall indulge them in; but as for

the petticoat I have been speaking of, I neither can nor will allow

it.' Vain, idle words! the fashion crept on, until under the Georges

it was absolutely outrageous. At present it was a somewhat mild

hooping of whalebone, compressible--at least such was the under

framework; for the word petticoat meant the skirt of the dress--over

which was the furbelow. They were made of varied and rich materials;

one example will serve to illustrate: 'Stolen &c. A Cloth Colour Gown

and Petticoat of Grazet, an Ash Coloured Grazet Gown and Petticoat, a

Hair Colour plush Petticoat, a black Russel Petticoat flower'd, an Ash

colour Silk Quilted Petticoat, a Cloth Colour'd Silk Sattinet Gown and

Petticoat,' etc.

[Footnote 220: _Tatler_, 116.]

The bodices were laced, open in front, over very tight stays, showing

them; and they varied in material from 'a pair of stays cover'd with

Black Tabby Stitched, lin'd with Flannel,' to one 'with 8 diamond

Buckles and Tags,' for which Sir Richard Hoare, of the Golden Bottle

in Fleet Street, would give the finder twelve guineas. The bodices

were worn low, showing the bosom--which, however, was partially

concealed by the 'tucker' or 'modesty piece,' which was an edging

going round the top of the dress and front of the bosom. In 1713 this

was beginning to be discontinued, and deep, and many, were the growls

over it in the _Guardian_.

The sleeves of the bodice were somewhat short (only coming a little

below the bend of the arm), and were worn hanging, to show the white

muslin, or lace, hanging sleeve, which came nearly to the wrist--a

very pretty fashion; and an apron was worn, made somewhat ornamental

by frilling, etc.

This formed the outward costume of a lady; only sometimes it was of

extremely rich material, vide the following: 'Stolen out of the house

of Mr. Peter Paggen in Love Lane near Eastcheap ... One Isabella

colour Kincob Gown flowered with Green and Gold, one Silver lace half

Ell deep; One Silver Orrice a quarter of a Yard deep; A large Parcel

of Black and Silver Fringe; One dark colour Cloth Gown and Petticoat

with 2 Silver Orrices; One Purple and Gold Atlas Gown; One Scarlet and

Gold Atlas Petticoat edged with Silver; One wrought under Petticoat

edged with Gold; one Black Velvet Petticoat; three Black and White

Norwich Stuff Gowns and Petticoats; one Black fine Cloth Gown and 2

Petticoats; One White Satin Gown lined with Black Silk; One Alejah

Petticoat striped with Green, Gold, and White; One Silver Net half

Yard deep; One White Sarsnet Scarf; Two Yards of White and Gold Atlas;

one Blue and Silver Silk Gown and Petticoat; One Blue and Gold Atlas

Gown and Petticoat; Two Silver Laces each a quarter of a Yard deep,

One yellow Chintz Gown and Petticoat, one Workt Petticoat; one White

Holland Gown and Petticoat drawn for Stitchin; One pair of Shoes and

Clogs laced with Silver; One dark Colour Cloth Petticoat with a Silver

Orrice, one White Sarsnet Scarf,' etc.

Of ladies' underlinen we get a glimpse in the following: 'Lost &c., a

deal box containing 4 fine Holland Shifts, 7 fine Cambric

Handkerchiefs, 2 Night rails and Aprons, one with edging and the other

flowered, 2 yards of fine loopt Macklen Lace, one Suit of Muslen Lace

Night Cloaths, 2 Holland Wastcoats, 3 Diaper Towels, One Powder Box

and 6 combs.'

The stockings were either of thread or silk; in the latter case they

were sometimes of bright colours. We have already seen how the little

temptress of the New Exchange asked, 'Does not your Lady want ... fine

green Silk Stockings?' The shoes were beautifully made, of satin or

silk, embroidered, or of fine Morocco leather, with high heels.

Oddly enough, even in those days, which we are somehow inclined to

clothe in idyllic simplicity, women dressed like men, as far as they

could. Budgell notes this: 'They already appear in Hats and Feathers,

Coats and Perriwigs.'[221] And Addison points out to them[222] that if

their design in so doing is to 'smite more effectually their Male

Beholders,' they are mistaken, for 'how would they be affected should

they meet a Man on Horseback, in his Breeches and Jack Boots, and at

the same time dressed up in a Commode and a Night raile?'

[Footnote 221: _Spectator_, 331.]

[Footnote 222: _Ibid._ 435.]

The same little feminine vanities existed then as now. We had a glance

at the cosmetics and scents, so will only just give one more

illustration which supplies some then missing scents. 'I have choice

good Gloves, Amber, Orangery, Gensa, Romane, Frangipand, Nerol,

Tuberose, Jessimine and Marshal. All manner of Tires for the Head,

Locks, Frowzes and so forth;'[223] so that they were not altogether

independent of the barber's art as regards false hair.

[Footnote 223: _The Virtuoso._]

[Illustration: Coiffure.]

There stands the _Toilette_, Nursery of Charms,

Compleatly furnish'd with bright Beauty's Arms;

The Patch, the Powder Box, Pulville, Perfumes,

Pins, Paint, a flatt'ring Glass, and Black lead Combs.

...............................................

So Love with fatal Airs the Nymph supplies

Her Dress disposes, and directs her Eyes.

The Bosom now its naked Beauty Shows,

Th' experienced Eye resistless Glances throws;

Now vary'd Patches wander o'er the Face,

And Strike each Gazer with a borrow'd Grace;

The fickle Head dress sinks and now aspires,

And rear's it's tow'ry Front on rising Wires:

The Curling Hair in tortured Ringlets flows,

Or round the Face in labour'd Order grows.[224]

[Footnote 224: _The Fan._]

The mode of coiffure was far less pretentious than in succeeding

reigns. When a cap or commode was worn, the hair, except in front,

was almost entirely concealed. When worn without a cap, as in the

house--especially for dress occasions--it was rolled, as in the

accompanying illustration, in a style both elegant and informal.

[Illustration: Patching.]

That curious practice of patching the face was in force, but was used

in greater moderation than either in the reign of Charles I., when

suns, moons, stars, and even coaches and four were cut out of sticking

plaister, and stuck on the face, and even the mercers patched, to show

the effect to their customers--or in the Georgian era, when the face

was covered with a sooty eruption. The effect on a pretty face, as

shown in the accompanying illustration, is far from unpleasant. But it

was an art, and required judgment.

_Penelope._ But alas, Madam, who patch'd you to Day? Let me see.

It is the hardest thing in Dress. I may say without Vanity I know

a little of it. That so low on the Cheeks pulps the Flesh too

much. Hold still, my dear, I'll place it just by your

Eye--(_Aside_) Now she downright squints.

_Victoria._ There's nothing like a sincere Friend; for one is not

a judge of one's self. I have a Patch box about me. Hold, my

dear, that gives you a sedate Air, that large one near your

Temples.

_Penelope._ People, perhaps, don't mind these things: But if it

be true, as the Poet finely sings, That all the Passions in the

Features are, We may show, or hide 'em, as we know how to affix

these pretty artificial Moles.

_Victoria._ And so catch Lovers, and puzzle Physiognomy.[225]

[Footnote 225: _The Lying Lover._]

When not properly applied see the result. 'Han't I got too many Beauty

Spots on, in my Mind now my Vace louks just like a Plumb Cake var all

the World,'[226] whilst they possibly might call forth some

uncomplimentary remarks, such as 'You pert Baggages, you think you are

very handsome now, I warrant you. What a devil's this pound of hair

upon your paltry frowses for? what a pox are those patches for? what,

are your faces sore? I'd not kiss a Lady of this Age, by the Mass, I'd

rather kiss my Horse.'[227]

[Footnote 226: _The Platonick Lady._]

[Footnote 227: _The Virtuoso._]

Misson notes the difference between his countrywomen and ours. 'The

Use of Patches is not unknown to the French Ladies; but she that wears

them must be young and handsome. In England, young, old, handsome,

ugly, all are _bepatch'd_ till they are Bed-rid. I have often counted

fifteen Patches or more upon the swarthy wrinkled Phiz of an old Hag

threescore and ten, and upwards. Thus the English Women refine upon

our Fashions.'

One would hardly imagine that this fashion could have been pressed

into the service of party passion, but so it was, if Addison was not

jesting--and, after all, perhaps it is not so astonishing, when we

recollect that the Tory ladies stayed away from the Queen's Drawing

Room--on her Majesty's birthday too--because she gave a flattering

reception, and a costly sword, to Prince Eugene: 'About the Middle of

last Winter I went to see an Opera at the Theatre in the Haymarket,

where I could not but take notice of two Parties of very fine Women,

that had placed themselves in the opposite Side Boxes, and seemed

drawn up in a kind of Battle Array one against another. After a short

Survey of them, I found they were Patch'd differently; the Faces on

one Hand being spotted on the right Side of the Forehead, and those

upon the other, on the Left. I quickly perceived that they cast

Hostile Glances upon one another; and that their Patches were placed

in those different Situations, as Party Signals to distinguish Friends

from Foes. In the Middle Boxes, between these two opposite Bodies,

were several Ladies who Patched indifferently on both Sides of their

Faces, and seem'd to sit there with no other Intention but to see the

Opera. Upon Inquiry I found that the Body of _Amazons_ on my right

Hand were Whigs, and those on my Left, Tories: And that those who had

placed themselves in the Middle Boxes were a Neutral Party, whose

Faces had not yet declared themselves. These last however, as I

afterwards found, diminished daily, and took their Party with one Side

or the Other; insomuch that I observed in several of them, the

Patches, which were before dispersed equally, are now all gone over to

the Whig or Tory side of the Face.'[228]

[Footnote 228: _Spectator_, 81.]

It has been noticed that masks were used in the country by ladies when

taking horse exercise; in fact, it was a substitute for the modern

veil; and, in previous reigns, it had been used generally out of

doors. But in Anne's time it had got to be associated with

disreputable females, so much so that at concerts, and at Powel's

puppet show, no person wearing a mask was admitted. They were still

worn at the theatres, but scarcely by ladies. Still they were worn

sometimes even by them, on the first night of a play, in case there

might be any allusion, which might afterwards be excised, which would

make them blush. They were not expensive luxuries.

No change in Government the Women stop.

For Eighteen Pence in Velvet sets them up.[229]

[Footnote 229: Epilogue to _The Modish Husband_, ed. 1702.]

Seeing the class by whom they were worn, people having them on were

naturally liable to insult. The following illustrates the manners of

the time: 'An Arch Country Bumpkin having pick'd up a Frog in some of

the adjacent Ditches, peeping into the Coach as he pass'd by, and

being very much affronted that they hid their Faces with their Masks,

Ads blood, Says he, you look as ugly in those black Vizards as my Toad

here; e'en get you all together, tossing on't into the Coach: At which

the frightened Lady birds Squeak'd out, open'd the Coach Doors, and

leap'd among the throng, to shun their loathsome Companion.'[230]

[Footnote 230: _London Spy._]

[Illustration: A Mask or Vizard.]

Of course, when the commode was worn, no other head-covering could be

worn with it; but, when it came to be lowered, and almost disappear, a

graceful fashion came up of scarves or hoods, and thus bright colours

are alluded to more than once by contemporary writers, especially in

the _Spectator_:[231] 'I took notice of a little Cluster of Women

sitting together in the prettiest colour'd Hoods that I ever saw. One

of them was Blue, another Yellow, and another Philomot;[232] the

fourth was of a Pink Colour, and the fifth was of a pale Green. I

looked with as much pleasure upon this little party Coloured Assembly,

as upon a Bed of Tulips, and did not know at first whether it might

not be an Embassy of Indian Queens,' etc. Whatever made Steele attack

the hood as he did in a manner so scurrilous, and utterly unlike

him?--though, after all, his objurgations are directed more against

the cloak than the hood.

[Footnote 231: No. 265.]

[Footnote 232: _Feuille-mort._]

Your Hoods and Cloaths or rather Riding Hoods

Were first invented to steal People's Goods--

For when their Wearers came with a Pretence

To Buy--Tho' looking with much Innocence,

Lace, Silk, or Muslin privately they steal

And under those same Cloaks their Theft Conceal.[233]

[Footnote 233: _Female Folly, or the Plague of a Woman's

Riding Hood and Cloak_, 1713.]

The tall broad-brimmed hat (which still exists in Wales, only made in

beaver) of James the First's reign was still used by country women,

and the poorer class in towns. Ward, talking of an 'Assembly of Fat

Motherly Flat Caps' at Billingsgate, says: 'Their Chief clamour was

against High Heads and Patches; and said it would have been a very

good Law, if Q. _Mary_ had effected her design, and brought the proud

Minks's of the Town, to have worn High Crownd Hats instead of Top

Knots.'[234] And in 'Tunbridge Walks': 'Oh! the joys of a Country

life, to mind one's Poultry, and one's Dairy, and the pretty business

of milking a Cow, then, the soft diversions of riding on Horseback, or

going to a Bull baiting, and the Charming Conversation of _High

Crown'd Hats_, who can talk of nothing but their Hogs and their

Husbands.'

[Footnote 234: _London Spy._]

[Illustration: An Umbrella.]

Furs were worn, and of course duly lost. From one advertisement we get

to know the name of 'a Sable Tippit or _Zar_;' and from another we

learn something of its shape, 'a round Sable Tippet, about 2 yards

long, the Sable pretty deep and dark, with a piece of black Silk in

the Square of the neck.' They also had muffs, not only of feathers, as

we have already seen, but of fur of all sorts, from otter skin to 'the

Cats' fur. But ladies did not go out more than they could help, either

in cold or wet weather. The streets were so bad, and, although to them

was accorded the 'umberellow' (for it was far too effeminate a thing

for men to carry, no Jonas Hanway having yet arisen), yet they did not

stir out unless obliged; and it was only

The tuck'd up sempstress walks with hasty strides

While Streams run down her oil'd umbrella's sides.[235]

[Footnote 235: _The Tatler_, No. 238.]

Curious clumsy things these old umbrellas must have been. For a man to

have used one, he would have deserved, and received, some such satire

as 'The Young gentleman belonging to the Custom House, that for fear

of rain borrowed the Umbrella at Will's Coffee House in Cornhill of

the _Mistress_, is hereby advertised that to be dry from head to foot

on the like occasion he shall be welcome to the _Maid's

Pattens_.'[236]

[Footnote 236: _The Female Tatler_, Dec. 12.]

Good Huswives all the Winter's Rage despise,

Defended by the Riding Hood's Disguise;

Or underneath th' _Umbrella's_ oily Shed,

Safe thro' the Wet on clinking Pattens tread.

Let _Persian_ Dames th' _Umbrella's_ Ribs display,

To guard their Beauties from the sunny Ray;

Or sweating Slaves support the shady Load,

When Eastern Monarchs shew their State abroad;

_Britain_ in Winter only knows its Aid,

To guard from chilly Show'rs the walking Maid.

But O! forget not, Muse, the _Patten's_ Praise,

That female Implement shall grace thy Lays;

Say from what Art Divine th' Invention came,

And from its Origine deduce the name.[237]

[Footnote 237: _Trivia_, book 1.]

And then Gay tells the legend of how Vulcan fell in love with Martha

(or Patty), the daughter of a Lincolnshire yeoman; how to save her

feet from the cold and wet he studded her shoes with nails; but still

she had a cold and lost her voice, until he hit upon the happy idea of

the 'patten' the use of which completely restored her to health, and

The Patten now supports each frugal Dame,

Which from the blue ey'd _Patty_ takes the name.

But we must not forget that potent weapon in woman's armoury, the fan.

The Fan shall flutter in all Female Hands,

And various Fashions learn from various lands,

For this, shall Elephants their Iv'ry shed;

And polished Sticks the waving Engine spread:

His clouded Mail the Tortoise shall resign,

And round the Rivet pearly Circles shine.

On this shall _Indians_ all their Art employ,

And with bright Colours stain the gaudy Toy;

Their Paint shall Here in wildest Fancies flow,

Their Dress, their Customs, their Religion show,

So shall the _British_ Fair their minds improve,

And on the Fan to distant Climates rove.

Here shall the _Chinese_ Dame her Pride display,

And silver Figures gild her loose Array;

She boasts her little Feet and winking Eyes,

And tunes the Fife, or tinkling Cymbal plies;

Here Cross leg'd Nobles in rich State shall dine,

When on the Floor large painted Vessels shine,

For These, O _China_, shall thy Realms be sought,

With These, shall _Europe's_ mighty Ships be fraught,

Thy glitt'ring Earth shall tempt their Ladies Eyes,

Who for thy brittle Jars shall Gold despise.

Gay _France_ shall make the Fan her Artists' Care,

And with the Costly Trinket arm the Fair.

.............................................

While Widows seek once more the Nuptial State,

And wrinkled Maids repent their Scorn too late,

As long as youthful Swains shall Nymphs deceive,

And easie Nymphs those youthful Swains believe,

While Beaus in Dress consume the tedious Morn,

So long the _Fan_ shall Female Hands adorn.[238]

[Footnote 238: _The Fan_, by Gay, ed. 1714.]

To anyone interested in the use of the fan at this period, a perusal

of Addison's article in the _Spectator_ (No. 102) is recommended: it

is too long for reproduction here, and would be thoroughly spoilt by

merely making use of extracts from it. They seem to have been seldom

lost, or if so, were not of sufficient value to advertise--in fact, I

have only met with one advertisement, 'A painted Landskip Fann, cutt,

gilded Sticks,' and for this a reward of 7_s._ 6_d._ was offered. That

they were largely imported is evident by the following notice: 'For

Sale by the Candle, at the Marine Coffee House in Birchin Lane

&c.--Forty Thousand Fans of Sundry Sorts;' but these most probably

were either Chinese, Japanese, or Indian palm fans.

Before closing the subject of women's costumes the 'Mob' must be

noticed--that dress of which Swift writes: 'The ladies were all in

Mobs; how do you call it?--undressed.'[239] This negligent costume, of

which no actual contemporary description seems to exist, is never

mentioned except to be decried--as, for instance, the question is

asked, 'How is a man likely to relish his wife's society when he comes

home and finds her slovenly, in a Mob?' And there were one or two

other articles of dress not usually mentioned, and not described, as

'Women's laced Head Cloaths commonly called _Quaker's Pinners_' and

'_Dowds_.'

[Footnote 239: _Journal to Stella_, letter 11.]

What woman could exist without shopping nowadays? And the habit was

the same among the ladies of Queen Anne's time. The _Female Tatler_

(1709) gives us the following graphic description of shopping: 'This

afternoon some ladies, having an opinion of my fancy in Cloaths,

desired me to accompany them to Ludgate Hill, which I take it to be as

agreeable an amusement as a lady can pass away three or four hours in.

The shops are perfect gilded theatres, the variety of wrought silks so

many changes of fine scenes, and the Mercers are the performers in the

Opera; and instead of "_vivitur ingenio_," you have in gold capitals

"_No trust by retail_." They are the sweetest, fairest, nicest, dished

out creatures; and by their elegant and soft speeches, you would guess

them to be Italians. As people glance within their doors, they salute

them with--Garden silks, ladies, Italian Silks, brocades, tissues,

cloth of Silver, or cloth of Gold, very fine Mantua Silks, any right

Geneva velvet, English velvet, velvet embossed. And to the meaner

sort--Fine thread satins both striped and plain, fine mohair silk,

satinnets, burdets, Persianets, Norwich Crapes, anterines, silks for

hoods and scarves, hair camlets, druggets or sagathies, gentlemen's

nightgowns ready made, shallons, durances, and right Scotch plaids.

'We went into a shop which had three partners; two of them were to

flourish out their silks; and after an obliging smile and a pretty

mouth made, Cicero like, to expatiate on their goodness; and the

other's sole business was to be gentleman usher of the shop, to stand

completely dressed at the door, bow to all the coaches that pass by,

and hand ladies out and in.

'We saw abundance of gay fancies, fit for Sea Captain's wives,

Sheriff's feasts, and Taunton dean ladies.[240] This, Madam, is

wonderfully charming. This, Madam, is so diverting a Silk. This,

Madam--my stars! how cool it looks. But this, Madam.--Ye Gods! would I

had 10,000 yards of it! Then gathers up a sleeve, and places it to

your shoulders. It suits your Ladyship's face wonderfully well. When

we had pleased ourselves, and bid him ten shillings a yard for what he

asked fifteen; Fan me, ye winds, your lady ship rallies me! should I

part with it at such a price, the weavers would rise upon the very

Shop. Was you at the Park last night, Madam? Your ladyship shall abate

me sixpence. Have you read the Tatler to day? &c.

[Footnote 240: Why _Taunton dean ladies_ I am at a loss to

say, unless, as Somersetshire was then considered as the

'ultima Thule' of civilisation, it is meant that the dresses

were as fine and gaudy as a country belle would wear, in

contradistinction to the better taste of her town-bred

sister.]

'These fellows are positively the greatest fops in the kingdom; they

have their toilets and their fine night gowns; _their chocolate in the

morning_, and _their green tea two hours after_; Turkey polts for

their dinner; and their perfumes, washes, and clean linen, equip them

for the Parade.'

We get a glimpse at the prices of silk dresses in the following

advertisement: 'The Silk Gowns formerly sold in Exchange Alley, are

removed to the sign of the Hood and Scarf, directly over against

Will's Coffee House in Cornhill, where any Gentleman or Lady may be

furnished with any Size or Price, there being all Sorts of Silks, from

rich Brocades of 7 Guineas Price to Thread Sattin Gowns of 37_s._,'

etc.

Besides the stuffs described in the _Female Tatler_, there were

'Silver Tishea, Pudsway Silks, Shaggs, Tabbeys, Mowhairs, Grazets,

Brochés, Flowered Damasks, Flowered Lustrings, ditto striped and

plain, Sarsnets, Italian Mantuas, Silk Plushes, Farendines, Shagreen,

Poplins, Silk Crapes and Durants'; whilst among the woollen goods were

'Hair and Woollen Camlets, Hair Plushes, Spanish and English Druggets,

Serge Denims, Calamancoes, Russels, Serges, Shalloons, Tammeys,

Ratteens, and Salapeens.' Ladies' black broadcloth cost 13_s._ 6_d._

per yard, fine scarlet 15_s._ 6_d._, and superfine do. 17_s._ 6_d._

Of Indian stuffs there is a formidable list, and as the names are

curious, and are probably lost and forgotten, I reproduce them:--

Bafts

Baguzzees

Ponabaguzzees

Chelloes

Chints

Do. Persia

Do. Culme

Do. Mamoodies

Do. Romalls

Betellees. Oringal

Coopees

Doreas

Gorgorans

Mahmudhiattees

Peniascoes

Seersuckers

Terrindams

Callowaypoose

Deribands

Guinea stuffs

Mamoodies

Niccannees

Pallampores

Quilts

Sallampores

Sovaguzzees

Tapsiels

Byrampants

Cuttannees

Doorguzzees

Gurrahs

Mickbannies

Rehings

Tepoys

Jamwars

Romalls

Nillaes

Soofeys

China cherrys

Goaconcheleras

Cherriderrys

Elatches

Gurracs

Humhums

Bulchauls

Cushlahs

Emerties

Humadees

Moorees

Seerbettees

Tanjeebs

Anjengo

Izzarees

Sannoes

Coffees

Allejars

Atlasses

Cuttances

Carradarries

Photaes

Pelongs

Cheaconines

Chucklaes

Gelongs

Jamdannies

Mulmuls

Shalbafts

Tainsooks

Brawles

Seerbetties

Paunches

Palampores

Sooseys

Addatties

Allibannies

Aubrowahs

Bafraes

Bejurapauts

Betellees

Chowtars

Culgees

Ginghams

Luckhouries

Neganepants

Seerbands

Taffaties

Doodamies

Succatums

Having a Queen upon the throne--one that kept her Court, and dressed

well--lace was naturally an article in demand. The Queen was somewhat

moderate at her Coronation, for her point lace only came to £64 13_s._

9_d._ It was Flanders lace, and was allowed to be imported, provided

it was not made in 'the dominions of the French king.' Mechlin and

Brussels lace first made their appearance in this reign, and, in 1710,

the Queen paid £151 for twenty-six yards of fine edged Brussels lace.

Indeed, Brussels lace was somewhat dear: 'One Brussels Head is valued

at £40; a grounded Brussels head £30; one looped Brussels £30.' 'Lost

betwixt Hemming's Row and Owin Street near Leicester Fields, a Tin Box

with Lace; whoever brings it to Mrs. Beck at the Angel and Star in

Fleet Street shall have £10 Reward and no Questions ask'd.' '9 pieces

of fine Bone Lace belonging to a Person of Quality' were also lost,

and £10 reward offered. This lace does not always seem to have been

made of thread, for, 'Whereas two pieces of Silver Bone lace, was

brought to a shop in Winchester Street to be weighed, the Lace being

suppos'd to be stol'n, is stoped.' Four pieces of 'Macklin' lace,

lost, induced a reward of five guineas, and the finder of three pieces

of 'Brussels edging Lace' is supposed to be tempted by the offer of

10_s._ to bring them back.

We have read in the robbery from Mr. Paggen's of a number of garments

with gold and silver lace, and with silver 'Orrices,' and the use of

bullion lace grew to such an extent, that in 1711, its entry was

forbidden under pain of forfeiture, and a fine of £100.

The linen of this reign was finer, and better, than in those

preceding, and one linen draper of the time has handed his name down

to posterity, viz. 'Thomas Doyley at the Nun in Henrietta Street,

Covent Garden.' A list of the linens then in vogue, is, as far as I

can learn, as follows: 'White and Brown Osnabrigs, Dowlas's, Kentings,

Muslins, Bed ticks, Garlets, Spotted Lawns, Sletias, Harford Blue,

White Shorks, Holland, Cambricks, Gentings, Callicoes, Damask, Diaper,

Huckabacks, Dimmities.'

Of these 'fine double threaded Cottons for Sheetings' was 12_d._ per

yard and muslin 5_s._ 6_d._

The 'Tally Man' was an institution in those days, and was well known.

His handbills remain, and there is a singular unanimity among them;

with one voice they make Monday the day for purchases and payments.

The reason for this is obvious; at that early period of the week the

Saturday's earnings ought not to be spent. As a rule, the terms were,

'Paying one shilling a Week for Thirty Shillings, untill the Sum is

paid for which they Contract.' One gentleman sticks up for his

dignity, and begs you to 'Note. That these goods are not to be sold by

a Tally man, but the Money is to be taken by Weekly, or Monthly

Payments, according as it shall be agreed upon for the Ease of the

Customers.' This system was as pernicious then as now, only, as the

law of arrest for debt was in full force, the prisons held plenty of

victims.

It was not a particularly ostentatious age for jewellery, and we can

get a good idea of what was worn, by one or two advertisements of lost

property. 'Stolen the 11th of this Instant February 1703[241] between

6 and 7 of the clock at night, from the Golden Buck in Lombard Street,

a Show Glass, in which, besides several things not remembr'd, were

these Particulars, viz. A gold Moco[242] Stone Chain set in Gold with

a Crown at the top. One Grain Gold Watch Chain mark't C. O. One large

Saphyre loose and 1 a little less. One string of Pearls from 2 Grains

to 5 or 6 Grains a piece; one large Pearl with a large Hole in it,

about 12 Grains, with several other loose Pearls; with several Diamond

Rings, Rubies and Garnet Grislets set in the Middle. One very large

Sized Ring, with 12 Diamonds, one being out, with an Ametheist broke

in the middle. One fine Medal of Cardinal Richelieu; one Smaller Gold

Medal with two Heads. Several Stone and plain Lockets, and Gold

Hearts, with Stones on the top to open. One Gold Chain with three

links, links and end, 15 d. wt. and one Brilliant Diamond Ring, set

round with 8 Diamonds in the middle; one longish Diamond weighing

about 2 grains and a half, or 3 at most. One large Garnet set in Gold

to hang to a Watch, and several Hoops and Joints markt T. S. Several

Gold Rings set with Turky and Vermillions. Several Gold Buttons, some

plain and some set with Moco Stones, and a Cornelian Ring Set. One

pair of plain Gold Buttons link'd with a Chain nock fashion'd, 8. d.

weight and half. Several false Stone Ear Rings, and Rings of several

Colours, set in Gold. One pair of Ear Rings, Diamonds and Drops, value

about 4_l._ 10_s_. Several right Garnet Ear Rings set in Gold with

Drops. Two red Watch Bottles rib'd with Gold. Several gilt Watch

Bottles and other Toys. One gilt Coral with a double branch. One

Necklace with Pearls and Vermillions; one Moco Stone Bracelet, 1 large

piece of Coral, weight 1 Ounce 8 p. wt., a plain gold Socket to it, 14

or 15 p. wt., 1 Cornelian set in Gold, and very finely enamelled, 3 or

4 Cornelian Seals set strong in Gold, several Gold Ear Rings with Tops

and Drops to 'em, 1 little Padlock in Gold and Silver and a Gold Key,

and several Corellionel Keys, &c.'

[Footnote 241: In reality it was 1704. In the old style of

reckoning 1704 did not begin till the 25th of March, and the

_London Gazette_ of this reign always kept to the old

style.]

[Footnote 242: 'Moco' stones are what are now called moss

agates.]

'Lost, &c. A Gold Watch made by Richards, with a Gold Seal and

Cornelion set in it, a Griffin Rampant ingrav'd thereon, a pair of

Drops hanging at the end of the Chain; a Rumphlet[243] of Diamonds set

in Silver and gilt. 2 Necklaces of Pearl, 1 middling, the other small;

1 Diamond Ring containing 7 stones set in Gold. 1 Mourning Ring mark'd

H. G. in a Silver Box.' 'A Bristow Stone[244] Necklace set in Silver.'

[Footnote 243: See _ante_, 'Rumps.']

[Footnote 244: Probably what we call 'Bristol diamonds.']

There was lost a very interesting memorial ring, to which, in those

Jacobite days, no doubt a particular value was attached. 'A Gold ring

with 7 Diamonds in the form of a Rose, which opens, and within the

effigies of K. Charles I. Enamelled, next the finger is C. R. with a

Death's Head in the middle.'

Diamonds were much worn, and frequently lost. For the following, a

reward of 10 per cent. of their value was offered. 'Lost &c. 42 loose

Diamonds, some of them large, belonging to a Necklace, and two with

holes made behind for Screws to be put in, all strung on a white silk;

and two Tags with 16 small Diamonds.' For the next 100_l._ was

offered, or proportionate sums for portions. 'Lost by a Person of

Quality, a Diamond Cross of 6 Brilliant Diamonds and a large Brilliant

Stone loose in a Collet. The middle stone in the Cross weighs 10

grains, and the other 5 together 29 grains, and the Diamond in the

Collet 15 grains or there abouts.'

The greatest loss of diamonds in this reign was the following, for

which a reward of 1,000 guineas, and the Queen's pardon, was offered.

'Whereas there were brought from India in the Ship Albemarle (which

was driven ashore at Pielpora near Plimouth about the 9th of this

instant December) Five Bulses of Diamonds, which are pretending to be

missing or lost.... Amongst which said Diamonds was one very uncommon,

remarkable Diamond, viz. One cut Table Stone of the first Water, and

in all Perfection, weighing about 26 Carrats and a Quarter, and one

Pointed rough Stone weighing about 18 Carrats and a Quarter; and one

other rough Stone weighing about 21 Carrats, a Point some thing

fallen, Christalline, White and Clean.'[245] One is glad to read in

'Luttrel's Diary,' January 15, 1709, 'Part of the Diamonds missing out

of the Ship Albemarle are found, and brought to the Secretary's

Office.'

[Footnote 245: _London Gazette_, Dec. 23/27, 1708.]

'Lost April 23 (1702) upon the day of Her Majesty's Coronation, in or

near Westminster Hall, a Diamond Stomacher, with a Row of Rose

Diamonds down the Middle, with knots of small Rose Diamonds on each

side; in the setting there being a joint between each knot; they being

all set in Silver, and sow'd upon black Ribbon. Lost also at the same

time one large Rose Diamond set in Silver, and fastened to a Bodkin.'

The Queen herself lost some diamonds on this memorable occasion, but

nothing of great value, as only ten guineas were offered as a reward.

'Whereas there was Ten Small Diamonds singly set in Silver, but made

up together into a Sprig fastened by a Wire, which were lost from Her

Majesty's Robes in the Procession upon the Coronation Day,' etc. This,

however, was not the only loss the Queen suffered during her reign,

some of her subjects conceiving a violent affection for her

plate--_vide_ the following advertisements. 'Whereas several pieces of

Plate, as Dishes, Trencher Plates, Knives, forks, spoons and salts,

together with Pewter of all Sorts, Table Linen and other Necessaries,

which were provided and used in Westminster Hall at her Majesty's

Coronation Feast on 23 Inst., have been taken away from thence, and

are yet concealed,'[246] etc. 'Lost last night, being the 10th of this

Instant, January, the following Pieces of Plate, viz, a large

Monteith[247] with the Queen's Arms; a Salver, with the Royal Arms; 3

Salts Nurl'd; 4 Spoons, with W. R. in a Cypher, and a Crown over them;

One Plate with the late King's Arms, and W. R.; the bottom of a

Mustard Caster, with A. R. in a Cypher, and a Crown over it.'[248]

'Lost at Somerset House, at the Entertainment of the Venetian

Ambassadors, one of Her Majesty's Knurl'd Dishes, weight 52 Ounces,

and one Silver Mazerine, Weight 20 Ounces, both engrav'd with His late

Majesty's Arms.'[249] 'Lost from Her Majesty's Palace at Windsor, on

Sunday the 4th Instant, Two Silver Trencher Plates of Her Majesty's

Engraven'd A. R. and the Arms of England before the Union.'

[Footnote 246: _Ibid._ Jan. 8/11, 1704-5.]

[Footnote 247: A Monteith was a kind of punch-bowl, with

scallops or indentations in the brim, the object of which

was to convert it into a convenient tray for bringing in the

wine-glasses. These being placed with the brims downwards,

radiating from the centre, and with the handles protruding

through the indentations in the bowl, were easily carried

without much jingling or risk of breaking. Of course the

bowl would then be empty of liquor.

'New things produce new words, and thus _Monteith_

Has by one Vessel, sav'd his name from Death.'

Dr. King's _Art of Cookery_, etc., p. 37.]

[Footnote 248: _London Gazette_, May 26/29, 1707.]

[Footnote 249: _Ibid._ Oct. 20/24, 1713.]

The plate of this reign was heavy and cumbrous, and of very little

artistic merit. It was greatly in use, and was an outward and visible

sign of its owner's wealth. To such an extent did its use obtain, that

taverns were ordered not to have silver tankards, the temptation to

steal them being so great.

[Illustration: Costume of a Lady.]

Ladies occasionally wore chatelaines in the street, and lost them,

whilst they seem only to have worn their watches for the sake of

losing their outer case, judging by the numbers of advertisements.

Being worn outside, there was nothing easier to steal. Not the whole

watch; oh no! but gently to press the spring, and the gold case was in

the thief's possession, with next door to no risk. They were

absolutely asking to be stolen. Even the little children must needs be

decked out with watches and chains. 'Whereas a Gold Watch, with a Gold

Chain with 6 lockets, one of them with a Cypher L. T. set with Pearl

and Green Stones, was lost from a Childe 11 years old.' 'Stop't, a

Child's Gold Chain suppos'd to be stolen.' 'Cut off from a Child's

neck yesterday, a Gold Chain, four times about her Neck.' 'Taken from

a Child, a Gold Chain with this Motto, _Memento Mori_.' 'Lost from a

Child's side, a Silver Scissor Case, Open Work, with Scissors in them;

to it a Chain and flat Hook gilt with Gold.'

CHAPTER XV.

FOOD.

(SOLID.)

English fare -- Time of dining -- Pontack's -- Other ordinaries

-- Books on Cookery -- Receipts -- Pudding -- Fish -- Oysters --

Poultry -- Assize of bread -- Markets -- Vegetables -- Lambeth

gardeners -- Fruit -- Dried fruit.

In the matter of food, people were not _gourmets_ as a rule. The

living was plentiful, but plain, and a dinner was never more than two

courses; as Addison wrote, 'two plain dishes, with two or three good

natured, chearful, ingenious friends, would make me more pleased and

vain than all that pomp and luxury can bestow;' and this sentiment

pervaded the whole of society. Dinner is almost the only meal ever

mentioned, and one looks in vain for details of breakfast or supper.

They were taken, of course, but men, then, did not sufficiently deify

their stomachs, as to be always talking about them: dinner was _the_

meal of the day, and there is no doubt that the most was made of that

opportunity. Misson says: 'The English eat a great deal at dinner;

they rest a while, and to it again, till they have quite stuff'd their

Paunch. Their Supper is moderate: Gluttons at Noon, and abstinent at

Night. I always heard they were great Flesh eaters, and I found it

true. I have known several people in England that never eat any Bread,

and universally they eat very little: they nibble a few crumbs, while

they chew the Meat by whole Mouthfuls. Generally speaking, the English

Tables are not delicately serv'd. There are some Noblemen that have

both _French_ and _English_ Cooks, and these eat much after the

_French_ manner; but among the middling Sort of People they have ten

or twelve Sorts of common Meats, which infallibly take their Turns at

their Tables, and two Dishes are their Dinners: a Pudding, for

instance, and a Piece of Roast Beef; another time they will have a

piece of Boil'd Beef, and then they salt it some Days before hand, and

besiege it with five or six Heaps of Cabbage, Carrots, Turnips, or

some other Herbs or Roots, well pepper'd and salted, and swimming in

Butter: A Leg of roast or boil'd Mutton, dish'd up with the same

dainties, Fowls, Pigs, Ox Tripes, and Tongues, Rabbits, Pidgeons, all

well moistened with Butter, without larding: Two of these Dishes,

always serv'd up one after the other, make the usual Dinner of a

Substantial Gentleman, or wealthy Citizen. When they have boil'd Meat,

there is sometimes one of the Company that will have the _Broth_; this

is a kind of Soup, with a little Oatmeal in it, and some Leaves of

Thyme or Sage, or other such small Herbs. They bring up this in as

many Porringers as there are People that desire it; those that please,

crumble a little Bread into it, and this makes a kind of _Potage_.'

Here, then, we have a very graphic, and evidently unbiassed, account

of the cuisine of this reign. Two o'clock seems to have been the

middle-class time of dining, but people with any pretension to fashion

dined later. 'Why does any Body Dine before Four a Clock in London?

For my Part, I think it an ill bred Custom to make my Appetite

Pendulum to the Twelfth Hour. Besides, 'tis out of Fashion to Dine by

Day light.'[250] And Steele, writing about 'Rakes,' says: 'All the

noise towards six in the evening is caused by his mimics and

imitators;'[251] thus leading to the inference that, dinner being at

four, and wine being plentifully drunk after it, they rose from table

half drunk, and went noisily to the coffee-houses.

[Footnote 250: _The Basset Table._]

[Footnote 251: _Tatler_, No. 27.]

This, probably, was the case at such a place as Pontack's, which held

the first rank among the restaurants of the time. It was situated in

Abchurch Lane, and was said to have derived its name from Pontack, a

president of the Parliament of Bordeaux, who gave his name to the best

French clarets; but this could hardly be the case, as all contemporary

writers call the proprietor Pontack. Misson speaks in high terms of

the place. Swift writes to Stella: 'I was this day in the City, and

dined at Pontack's with Stratford, and two other merchants. Pontack

told us, although his wine was so good, he sold it cheaper than

others, he took but seven shillings a flask;' and again, 'I dined in

the City at Pontack's with Stratford; it Cost me Seven Shillings.'

'Would you think that little _lap dog_ in Scarlet there, has Stomach

enough to digest a Guinea's worth of Entertainment at _Pontack's_

every Dinner Time?'[252] 'Mr. Montgomery said you had better go to

_Pontack's_, Gentlemen, I think there is none here but knows

Pontack's, it is one of the greatest Ordinaries in England.'[253]

'Your great Supper lies on my Stomach still, I defie _Pontack_ to have

prepar'd a better o' th' sudden.'[254]

[Footnote 252: _Works of T. Brown._]

[Footnote 253: _An Account of the Behaviour, Confession and

last Dying Speech of Sir John Johnson._]

[Footnote 254: _Lying Lover._]

There were others nearly as good.

At Locket's,[255] Brown's and at Pontack's enquire,

What modish Kick shaws the nice Beaus desire,

What famed Ragoust, what new invented Salate

Has best pretentions to regale the Palate.[256]

[Footnote 255: Charing Cross.]

[Footnote 256: Prologue to Centlivre's _Love's

Contrivance_.]

Ward describes a tavern ordinary well; he is in his element; but to

give his description would take up too much room. On entering the bar,

the principal person visible was the _dame de comptoir_, 'all Ribbons,

Lace and Feathers.' Having passed her, and taken a seat at the table,

he had 'a Whet of Old Hock' to sharpen his appetite for dinner, which

consisted of two calves' heads, a couple of geese, and Cheshire

cheese; after which they all fell to a-drinking wine.

There were cheaper places, or ordinaries, than these to dine at. 'I

went afterwards to _Robin's_,[257] and saw People who had dined with

me at the Five penny Ordinary just before, give Bills for the Value of

large Estates;'[258] and twopenny ordinaries are mentioned, but they

must have been for the very poor.

[Footnote 257: A Stock Jobbing Coffee House in Change

Alley.]

[Footnote 258: _Spectator_, No. 454.]

In spite of what Misson says, there was good cookery to be got, only

it hardly came into ordinary life; and there are two cookery

books[259] which give most excellent receipts, and show that there was

plenty of variety, both in the material and cooking of food; nay, even

in the elegances of the table, which were well cared for, as the

following receipt of Howard's shows: '_How to dish up a Dish of Fruits

with preserved Flowers_.--Take a large Dish, cover it with another of

the same bigness, and place the uppermost over with Paste of Almonds,

inlaid with red, white, blue, and green Marmalade in the figure of

Flowers and Banks; then take the branches of candied Flowers, and fix

them upright in Order, and upon little Bushes erected, and covered

with Paste: Fix your preserved and Candied Cherries, Plumbs, Pease,

Apples, Goosberries, Currans, and the like, each in their proper

place; and for Leaves, you may use Coloured Paste or Wax, Parchment,

or Horn; and this, especially in Winter, will be very proper.' Some of

the dishes he gives are hardly in vogue now; as for instance:

'_Spinage Tarts_.--Take Marrow, Spinage, hard Eggs, of each a handful,

Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Limon-peel shred very fine; then put in as many

Currans as you think fit, with Raisins stoned, and shred, candied,

Orange and Citron peel; sweeten it to your taste, make Puff Paste, and

make them into little square Pasties; bake or fry them.'

[Footnote 259: _England's Newest way in all Sorts of

Cookery_, etc., by Henry Howard, and '_Royal Cookery, or the

Complete Court Cook_, by Patrick Lamb, Esq. Near 50 years

Master Cook to their late Majesties King Charles 2. King

James 2. King William and Queen Mary, and to Her present

Majesty Queen Anne.']

Perhaps few people now would care to make Mr. Lamb's '_Patty of

Calves' Brains_.--The Calves Brains being clean, scald them, then

blanch some Asparagus, and put it in a Sauce pan, with a little Butter

and Parsley; being Cold, put the Brains in the Patty, with the

Asparagus, five or six Yolks of hard Eggs, and Forc'd Meat; season it

with Pepper and Salt. When it is bak'd, add the Juce of a Lemon, drawn

Butter and Gravy. _So serve it._'

Listen to Misson's ecstasies over our national dish--the PUDDING. 'The

_Pudding_ is a Dish very difficult to be describ'd, because of the

several Sorts there are of it; Flower, Milk, Eggs, Butter, Sugar,

Suet, Marrow, Raisins, &c., &c., are the most common Ingredients of a

_Pudding_. They bake them in an Oven, they boil them with Meat, they

make them fifty several Ways: BLESSED BE HE THAT INVENTED PUDDING,

for it is a Manna that hits the Palates of all Sorts of People: a

Manna better than that of the Wilderness, because the People are never

weary of it. Ah, what an excellent Thing is an _English Pudding_! _To

come in Pudding time_, is as much as to say, to come in the most lucky

Moment in the World.'[260]

[Footnote 260: There was 'the Royal Peace Pudding, Tickets

1_s._ each, Made on Thanksgiving Day, 1713, 9 feet long,

20-1/2 inches broad, and 6 inches deep,' and there were the

famous 12_d._ Marrow puddings. Blood Puddings were also in

vogue. See _Trivia_:--

'Blood stuff'd in Skins is _British_ Christian Food,

And _France_ robs Marshes of the croaking Brood;

Spongy _Morells_ in strong Ragousts are found,

And in the _Soupe_ the slimy Snail is drown'd.']

[Illustration: 'Four for Sixpence, Mackerell.']

Of fish he says: 'In Proportion Fish is dearer than any other

Belly-timber at London;' and as a matter of fact we hear very little

about it as an article of food. The country, inland, was of course

entirely dependent upon fresh-water fish, such as carp, jack, perch,

etc. The London market was at Billingsgate (which kept up its

reputation for its peculiar vernacular), but that was also waterman's

stairs, and a place of departure for boats; and here was sold whatever

fish was brought to London. A little before every Lent came vessels

loaded with salt cod, which were sold at 1_s._ 6_d._ to 2_s._ a

couple, and sometimes at 1_d._ per lb. Mackerel, on account of its

perishable nature, was allowed to be sold on Sunday, as Gay notes,

'Ev'n Sundays are prophan'd by Mackrell cries.'

From Billingsgate the fish was distributed to the various stalls

throughout London:--

You'll see a draggled Damsel, here and there,

From _Billingsgate_ her fishy Traffick bear.

And these stalls are thus described:--

When fishy Stalls with double Store are laid;

The golden belly'd Carp, the broad-finn'd Maid,

Red speckled Trouts, the Salmon's silver Soul,

The jointed Lobster, and unscaly Soale,

And luscious 'Scallops, to allure the Tastes

Of rigid Zealots to delicious Fasts;

_Wednesdays_ and _Fridays_ you'll observe from hence,

Days, when our Sires were doom'd to Abstinence.

Care was taken for the preservation of salmon, as the following

notice shows: 'Whereas by divers ancient statutes made to prevent the

Destruction of the Fry and Brood of Salmons, it is ordained, That none

shall be taken in any of the Rivers or Waters, wherein Salmon is

taken, between the 8th of September and the 11th of November; and that

none shall be taken in the Waters in the County of Lancaster between

the 29th of September and the 2d of February; and by a late Statute,

That no Salmons shall be taken in the County of Southampton and the

Southern Parts of Wiltshire between the 30th of June and the 11th of

November, nor be exposed to Sale under the Penalties thereby provided:

These are to give Notice that all Salmons taken out of their Seasons,

and exposed to Sale in London, will be destroyed, as many lately have

been, by the Rt. Hon. the Lord Mayor of the said City, as not fit to

be sold for Victuals, being taken out of their Seasons, contrary to

the Statutes afore mentioned: And that every Person bringing before

the Lord Mayor such unseasonable Salmons, shall have a Reward for the

same, to be paid by the Company of Fishmongers, London, as the Lord

Mayor for the time being shall think fit.'[261]

[Footnote 261: _London Gazette_, Oct. 31/Nov. 4, 1706.]

Our River Thames, then, was really the _habitat_ of good fish, for we

read: 'A Sturgeon was taken the last Week in the River near Stepney,

which the Lord Mayor sent as a Present to Her Majesty.'[262]

[Footnote 262: _The English Post_, June 5/8, 1702.]

It causes a sigh of regret to read of the great plenty, and wonderful

cheapness, of real native oysters. They were then, as now, only

considered fit to eat during the months with R in them; and Gay,

speaking of autumn, says, as a sign of its arrival, 'And Damsels first

renew their Oyster Cries'; and in another part of 'Trivia' he gives

the following sound advice:--

If where _Fleet Ditch_ with muddy Current flows,

You chance to roam; where Oyster Tubs in Rows

Are rang'd beside the Posts; there stay thy Haste,

And with the sav'ry Fish indulge thy Taste:

The Damsel's Knife the gaping Shell commands,

While the salt Liquor streams between her Hands.

And they were wonderfully cheap, sold in the streets by the

wheelbarrow men at 'Twelve Pence a Peck.' There was keen competition

in them, and rival fishmongers advertised the superior excellence of

their oysters. One will serve as a sample of the whole. '_Thomas West_

Fishmonger in Honey Lane Market near Blossom's Inn, gives notice, That

all Persons who have occasion for the Choicest of Oysters called

Colchester Oysters, may be supplied for this Season with the largest

pick't Fat and Green for 3_s._ a Barrel; Those somewhat smaller at

2_s._ 6_d._ of the same sort; Fat and Green, of a lesser size for

2_s._ the Barrel: The large pickt, white, fat Oysters for 2_s._ 6_d._

The smaller white fat Oysters 1_s._ 8_d._ At all these Prizes I will

sell the right Colchester Oysters, which, without considering their

goodness beyond other sorts, are cheaper than the Town Wheel barrow

Oysters: And that all Persons in City or Country, that send for them,

may no ways be deceived of having the right sort, the prizes are all

branded on the side of the Cask. Note, they are all branded at the

Pits, where they are pickt, so that if there be any Cheat, it must be

by the Oyster Man, which hath been too often practised to my Loss and

their shameful Gain. My Oysters Comes in on Monday's, Wednesdays,

Thursdays and Fridays by Water Carriage. No Trader in the City or

Suburbs having them come in so often, by reason of which, they will

hold good the farthest Journey, to please the nicest Eater. Those that

are not bought at my own Shop, will, by reason of the Extraordinary

Charge be 2_d._ in a Barrel advanc'd; and all that are desirous to

have them from my Shop, the same day that they come in of, they shall

be delivered, if desired, as far as St. James for 2_d._ Temple Bar

1_d._ And all other places proportionable, and when all is said, I

hope tryal will be your Satisfaction.'

[Illustration: 'Twelve Pence a Peck, Oysters!']

Pickled oysters were also imported from Jersey, and sold at 1_s._

8_d._ per hundred. Swift writes Stella[263] how 'Lord Masham made me

go home with him to night to eat boiled oysters. Take Oysters, wash

them clean, that is, wash their shells clean; then put your oysters in

an earthen pot, with their hollow sides down, then put this pot

covered, into a great Kettle with water, and so let them boil. Your

oysters are boiled in their own liquor, and (do) not mix water.'

[Footnote 263: _Journal_, March 6, 1712.]

Poultry, with the exception of game, was the same as now; the only

importation from foreign parts, seemingly, being ortolans, which were

brought over in September of each year. The English ortolan, too, was

keenly relished by epicures. 'You have a coarse stomach, and to such a

one, a Surloin of Beef were better than a dish of Wheat ears.'[264]

[Footnote 264: _The Virtuoso._]

For relishes, there were anchovies 8_d._ per lb., neats' tongues and

York hams 6_d._ per lb.; but salt was somewhat dear. The home

manufacture did not supply the whole demand, as now, and it was

imported both from Portugal and France. Still, it was made at home.

'Whereas it hath been reported, that there was not a sufficient

quantity of Salt made at Shirley wich, in the county of Stafford, to

supply the customers that came for it. This is to give notice, that

with the Additional Works, there is now twice the quantity made out of

the new Pit, much better and stronger than was formerly.'[265]

[Footnote 265: _Postman_, June 9/12, 1705.]

Bread, as usual, was made the subject of legislation, and the

following proclamation was issued:--

'London May 3.

'GARRARD. MAYOR.

_'Martis 2 do die Maii 1710. Annoque Reginæ

'Annæ Magnæ Britanniæ &c. Nono._

By Virtue of an Act Passed in the last Session of Parliament,

Intituled, _An Act to Regulate the Price and Assize of Bread_,

This Court doth Order and Appoint, That the Assize of all White,

Wheaten and Household Bread, to be made of Wheat for Sale within

this City and Liberties thereof, shall for the future be Penny,

Two Penny, Six Penny, Twelve Penny, and Eighteen Penny Loaves,

and no other; and that on every Loaf be fairly Imprinted or

Marked, several Letters for Knowing the Price and Sort thereof,

as followeth, that is to say

| _Finestor | _Wheaten._ | _Houshold._

| White._ | |

On every Penny Loaf | I. F. | I. W. | I. H.

Two Penny Loaf | II. F. | II. W. | II. H.

Six Penny Loaf | | VI. W. | VI. H.

Twelve Penny Loaf | | XII. W. | XII. H.

Eighteen Penny Loaf | | XVIII. W. | XVIII. H.

And in further Pursuance of the said Act, this Court doth

appoint, That the Assize and Weight of the said Bread shall be as

followeth.

| _White._ | _Wheaten._ | _Houshold._

| Lb. Oz. Dr. | Lb. Oz. Dr. | Lb. Oz. Dr.

The Penny Loaf to Weigh by | | |

Avoirdepois or Common Weight| -- 4. 3. | -- 6. 5. | -- 8. 7.

The Two Penny Loaf | -- 8. 7. | -- 12. 10. | 1. 0. 14.

The Six Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 2. 5. 15. | 3. 2. 9.

The Twelve Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 4. 11. 13. | 6. 5. 2.

The Eighteen Penny Loaf | -- -- -- | 7. 1. 11. | 9. 7. 11.

Whereof all Bakers and others concern'd are to take Notice, and

to Observe the same under the Penalties in the said Act contained

to be inflicted on all such who shall Neglect so to do.

'Note, That 16 Drams make One Ounce and 16 Ounces One Pound.

'GIBSON.'

And so they continued to regulate the price, according to the

fluctuations of the corn market.

Milk was produced from cows kept in London, and was carried round by

women, or milkmaids, as they were called.

On Doors the sallow Milkmaid chalks her Gains;

Ah! how unlike the Milkmaid of the Plains!

And the milch-asses went their daily rounds. Asses' milk was in great

request, and many were the advertisements of milch-asses for sale. Its

price was 3_s._ 6_d._ per quart.

Before proud Gates attending Asses bray,

Or arrogate with solemn pace the Way;

These grave Physicians with their milky Chear,

The Love sick Maid, and dwindling Beau repair.

Butter was got from the surrounding villages, but already there was a

trade in this article with Ireland, for on August 14, 1705, was sold

at the Marine Coffee House thirty-eight casks of Irish butter and

forty-nine casks of Irish beef.

There were several markets in London, each with its specialty.

Shall the large Mutton smoke upon your Boards?

Such _Newgate's_ copious Market best affords;

Would'st thou with mighty Beef augment thy Meal?

Seek _Leaden hall_; Saint _James's_ sends thee Veal.

_Thames street_ gives Cheeses; _Covent garden_ Fruits;

_Moor fields_ old Books; and _Monmouth Street_ old Suits.

Vegetables were principally supplied from the Lambeth market gardens,

which are thus mentioned by Steele[266]: 'When we first put off from

Shore, we soon fell in with a Fleet of Gardeners bound for the several

Market Ports of _London_; and it was the most pleasing Scene

imaginable to see the Chearfulness with which those industrious People

ply'd their Way to a certain Sale of their Goods. The Banks on each

Side are as well peopled, and beautified with as agreeable

Plantations, as any Spot on the Earth; but the _Thames_ itself, loaded

with the Product of each Shore, added very much to the Landskip. It

was very easie to observe by their Sailing, and the Countenances of

the ruddy Virgins who were Supercargoes, the Parts of the Town to

which they were bound. There was an air in the Purveyors for _Covent

Garden_, who frequently converse with Morning Rakes, very unlike the

seemly Sobriety of those bound for _Stocks Market_.'

[Footnote 266: _Spectator_, No. 454.]

Neither Ward nor Brown viewed the Lambeth gardeners in such a

_couleur-de-rose_ aspect; and haply they described the scene more

accurately. The former says: 'A scoundrel crew of _Lambeth_ Gardeners

attacked us with such a Volley of saucy Nonsence, that it made my Eyes

stare, my Head ake, my Tongue run, and my Ears tingle.' Brown tells us

that 'the next diverting Scene that the River afforded us, was a very

warm Engagement between a Western Barge, and a Boat full of _Lambeth_

Gardeners, by whom _Billingsgate_ was much outdone in stupendious

Obscenity, tonitrous Verbosity, and malicious Scurrility, as if one

side had been _Daniel D--f--'s_[267] Party, and the other the

_Observator's_.' And they both give examples of this bargee slang,

which, it is needless to say, are utterly unfit for reproduction.

[Footnote 267: Daniel Defoe.]

From these market gardens came the 'Asparagrass' and 'Sallary,'[268]

the 'Apricocks' and those melons which the _Spectator_ noted were

consigned by Mr. Cuffe of Nine Elms to Sarah Sewell and Company, at

their stall in Covent Garden.

[Footnote 268: Potatoes in any large quantity were 1/2_d._

per lb.]

Misson says, 'Fruit is brought only to the Tables of the Great, and of

a small number even among them. The Desert they never dream of, unless

it be a Piece of Cheese.' That possibly was correct, but still a great

deal of fruit was eaten. The _Daily Courant_ of Feb. 20, 1714,

mentions the following--Pears: 'Bon chrestien,' 'Mesir jean,' 'Beuré.'

Apples: 'Pomme Royal,' 'Pomme Dâpy,' 'Reinette Grise,' and the

'Magdelaine' peach. We also see that

Wallnutts the Fruit'rer's Hand, in Autumn stain,

Blue Plumbs, and juicy Pears augment his Gain;

Next Oranges the longing Boys entice,

To trust their Copper Fortunes to the Dice.

'Lisbon, China Oranges, and Sower Oranges' were sold in Love Lane,

near Billingsgate; as were also 'a Parcel of Pot China Oranges, of a

pleasant taste and flavour, landed out of the Lisbon Fleet, now a

delivering.' Oranges were favourite trees to grow here, and one

advertisement mentions 7,000 of them for sale. The retail price of

oranges was not excessive, considering the restricted commerce, and

the small tonnage of the shipping. 'We have the finest oranges for two

pence a piece,' writes Swift.