The pure in blood--Places of amusement--The theatre--"Romeo
Coates"--Jugglers and rope-dancers--Maroon parties--Shooting
season--The Creole beauties--Dress--"The lords of the creation"
--Fops and foppery--Business hours--Scene at the Antigua
post-office--Auction sales--Militia doings--The gallant dragoon
--Guard-nights.
There are but few places of public amusement in Antigua; no
malls, or parks, or Kensington gardens,--no morning concerts,
Colosseums, or exhibition-rooms,--no "Almacks" of an evening,[58]
or box at the opera, where the Creole beauty may shew forth her
charms with _eclât_. The Antiguan _belle_ has to trust to fortune
to bring her admirers;
"Unknowingly she strikes, and kills by chance,"
as Dryden expresses it.
A few years ago, however, there was a theatre in Antigua,[59]
which now and then was frequented by a straggling company of
players, who, in their trips about the West Indies, called in at
Antigua to delight and surprise the inhabitants with their
dramatic lore. Then "Macbeth" grasped his gory dagger,--"Hamlet"
stalked about in sable suit,--"Othello" raved, or "Jaffier"
stormed,--then poor "Juliet" wept, or "Desdemona" prayed, and
many other heroes and heroines of the stage "mouth'd" and "saw'd
the air," with all the grace that strolling players are noted
for. Their ranks augmented by some gentlemen amateur performers
of Antigua, who, not content with entering the lists as knights
of the "buskin and sock," like Hercules, put on the _petticoats_,
to shew, I suppose, their diversity of talents. Much cannot be
said for the performance upon these occasions. One gentleman, in
his metamorphosis, forgot to divest himself of his "Wellington
boots," and there was such a clattering and stamping about with
him, when playing the part of the waiting woman, that I verily
believed the boards were in danger.
The well-known and eccentric "Romeo Coates," as he is generally
called in London, is a native of Antigua; and many and oft have
been the nights, when he has made his bow before an Antiguan
audience, and trusting in his histrionic powers, claimed the
chaplet which Fame has woven for stage-struck heroes. The
playhouse has, however, been levelled with the ground; and its
site is now occupied by a very respectable private
dwelling-house, in place of the shabby temple, formerly
appropriated to the tragic and comic muse.
Although the theatre is "no more," Antigua is not always devoid
of public exhibitions. A juggler, or a rope-dancer, now and then
makes his appearance, and having procured an empty store or loft,
throws his body into ten thousand different contortions, for the
amusement of those who feel inclined to throw in their dollars.
At other times, a dwarf, or an "infant phenomenon," do their best
to call a smile into the face of their audience; or a ship-load
of _yankees_, with their stud of horses, and an "incomparable
female rider," as their play-bills have it, erect their marquee
upon the barrack-ground, and for the small remuneration of a
dollar, spring over the moon almost, or act the part of a spitted
ox, dressed by the heat of fire-works.
During the absence of these "professional characters," the
Antiguans have other methods for getting rid of the time that
hangs too heavy upon their hands. Now and then a _maroon party_,
or West Indian _fête champetre_, is given; when groups of
beautiful girls and gallant youths, stayed matrons, and gentlemen
of riper years, assemble together, with full purpose to enjoy the
passing hours. Some sweet spot, generally near the sea-side, is
chosen for the day's resort; or else some
"---- green and silent spot amid the hills,
A small and silent dell."
And beneath the shade of some far-spreading trees, whose boughs
form natural arcades, their rural banquet is spread. Various
pastoral sports are here enjoyed; and although no "Weippert's
band" is in attendance, the sound of the lively violin, or
soft-breathing flute, often floats across the blue waters, and
mingles with the murmur of the playful wavelets.
At different periods of the year, fancy sales are held in the
court-house, when all classes congregate together, from the
governor's lady, to the lady of the agricultural labourer. These,
with balls at government house, now and then, and occasional
quadrille parties at private houses, Bible and missionary
meetings, and rides and drives in the afternoons, or walks by
moonlight, constitute the chief _amusements_ of the Creole
beauties.
The gentlemen vary these pastimes with occasional regattas and
races, a day's rabbit-shooting upon Long Island, or, in the
season, they deal destruction with their murderous guns upon the
poor winged tribe, who pay us annual visits. The shooting season
commences about September, when plovers, teals, and wild ducks
migrate from America to these islands, although the quail remains
with us throughout the year. There are game-laws now in force in
Antigua, and consequently, every sportsman has to take out a
licence, before he is at liberty to endanger the lives of the
birds, or may be, the safety of the queen's subjects. Some few
years ago, this was not the case; and whoever felt inclined, went
out shooting. Cobblers, tailors, butcher-boys, and carpenters,
were immediately metamorphosed into gentlemen, and gun-in-hand,
shot-belt and powder-flask slung round them, left the trammels of
the shop and the work-bench, to wage war against the feathered
race.
Many of the white Creole girls are very beautiful. Their
complexions may vie with the purest Parian marble; while the
softest, most delicate rose-tint mantles in their cheeks, and
every blue vein can be traced, as it courses through their
polished foreheads. The long glossy ringlet, the drooping
eyelash, and the penciled brow, relieve, while they set off,
their natural white; and the little coral lip, and pearly teeth,
make up a _tout ensemble_, more lovely than can be told. Beauty
has ofttimes been compared to flowers, and when looking at some
of these lovely Creoles, they bring to mind that sweet and
elegant rose, known in England as "the maiden's blush." In person
they are generally _petite_, and their hands and feet are
faultless as regards shape or size. Canova might have chosen them
as a model for his Venus. What a pity it is, that extreme
affectation should, in so many instances, spoil their manners,
and deteriorate from their natural charms. Dress is carried to a
great extent. Every pew in the church looks as gay as a box at
the opera. Such feathers and flowers, mantelets and cloaks; such
_capotes_ of _tulle_, and cardinal pelerines; such corsages _à la
vierge_, and skirts _à la Corinne_--crispins of lace, and I know
not what besides, are exhibited by the Antiguan belles, as would
surprise any one who is not well versed in all the changes of the
arbitrary rule of fashion.
From a glance at the ladies it is but right I should turn to the
"lords of the creation," and remark a few of their peculiarities.
In a small community like Antigua, it is not to be supposed there
are to be met such extreme contrast in dress and appearance as in
the crowded streets of London--and yet some of the gentlemen
emulate the "fops" of Regent-street, while others, again, are so
_outré_ in appearance, that we involuntarily exclaim, "From what
habitable part of the globe could this creature have sprung?" As
is generally the case, the younger gentlemen are those who enlist
under the banners of "foppery;" and then there is such a display
of exquisitely-fitting coats, brilliant satin waistcoats, and
voluminous stocks, or reversed collars and cuffs, and throats _à
la Byron;_ such pointed boots and pumps, clerical-looking hats,
and elegant canes! with wasp-like waists, flowing locks, and
languishing manners, that had Adonis lived in these days and seen
the Antiguan beaux, he would, most undoubtedly, have despised his
own inartificial charms, and have cried with King Richard--
"I'll be at charges for a _looking-glass_
And entertain a score or two of tailors
To study fashions to adorn my body."
The gentlemen of more advanced years very generally patronize the
blue-coat-and- white-waistcoat school, and some of them follow
the almost obsolete custom of powdering the hair; but white is
the prevailing morning-dress among all classes and all ages, a
dress of all others best suited to this warm climate.
As bright Hyperion takes from the Creole maidens the _glowing_
tints for which England's daughters are so famed, so he thinks it
but fair to play many pranks with the complexions of the
gentlemen who own his much-loved and frequented island as their
home. Some he renders so pale and wan, that they appear like
gliding spectres; others are as fiery red as the old English
country market-women's cloaks with which they enwrap themselves
when Winter holds his despotic reign; while some, again, present
the deeper tinge of a full-blown peony; when to these latter
shades are added the silvery honours of old age, the _tout
ensemble_ is most striking.
The hours of business in Antigua are from about six in the
morning to four in the afternoon; after that period, the lawyer
leaves his musty books and all his _pros_ and _cons;_ the
merchant quits his counting-house, his day-book, and his ledger;
the dealer in fashions and furbelows shuts his varied store; even
the professors of the lancet abandon, for a time, the _cure_ of
the _incurables;_ and away they all hurry, on "pleasure bent," to
enjoy the exercise of riding, driving, or walking, until the day
draws to a close, and their watches point the hour of dinner.
Many circumstances, however, occur during these "business hours"
which calls for the presence of the trader as well as the
professional man. The packet from England is signalized, and away
they scamper to the post-office, almost before the mails are
landed, to the utter consternation of the poor post-master, and,
with anxious eyes and clamorous tongues, crowd the office-door.
At length, two or three burly sailors, followed by the commander
of the packet, a lieutenant in the navy, are seen approaching the
spot, bearing upon their broad-built shoulders the
long-looked-for mail-bags, well secured in their leathern
envelops. The pushing and jostling increases, as gig after gig
dashes up and sets down its several passengers--horsemen curvet
about, at which lank and miserable-looking dogs bark,
servant-boys grin and chatter--and a group of little children,
just dismissed from one of the free schools, stand gazing
thereon, and wondering "war make dem buckra care so much 'bout
letter?"
Oh, what a _hurly burly_ it is! what a noise and discord! what a
pushing, and scrambling, and puffing, and panting! At length, the
door is opened, and the postmaster announces, in not very dulcet
tones, "the letters will not be out for two hours," and closes
the portal again. A look of dismay and vexation overspreads the
countenance of all. The first turns to his neighbour, and he, in
_his turn_, looks to the one behind him; one mutters, "How
provoking!" and another says, "I hate to be served so!" while one
of the applicants, a melancholy-looking man, observes, in an
important voice, "The letters _must be sorted_, you know." As no
good can be effected by waiting, they finally disperse, and
endeavour to while away the time until, the two hours having
elapsed, they again besiege the office. A well-applied rap
summons the postmaster. "Are the letters out?"--"No, they will
not be out for another hour!" Time, however, brings many things
to pass, and the letters are at length sorted. Happy now does
that individual feel himself whose name begins with an "A"--for
they always conduct this business alphabetically. A silence
ensues, the letters are distributed, and, too anxious to know
their contents, their several receivers open them upon the spot.
Various is the intelligence received, as seal after seal is
broken--manifold the subjects discussed. Some talk of failures of
mercantile houses, others of legacies received or in prospect;
some descant upon politics, and others upon the price of sugars;
while another group peruse the London newspapers, inspect
carefully the list of births, deaths, marriages, and
_bankruptcies_, look to see what the Queen and the court are
doing, and then go forth to publish the "varied accidents by
flood and field."
Another figure emerges from the office-door. A fine
portly-looking man, whose complexion rivals in colour the
_château margaux_ he so liberally indulges in: a pair of
gold-rimmed spectacles surmounts his well-formed nose, a
substantial-looking umbrella is stuck beneath his arm, while in
one hand is borne an open letter, and in the other, a voluminous
silk handkerchief, and a gold snuff-box almost large enough to
play the part of a portmanteau. "Not bad, though," he mutters to
himself, as he carefully looks out for the lapses in the stone
platform which runs along the front of the post-office--"not bad,
though; my last ten hogsheads brought 78s. per cwt.; and my agent
tells me the sugar was not so good as the former shipment, or he
should have got higher prices. I must look to what my manager is
doing; he must exert himself more, or he and I must part. Ay--
rain again!" and he inspects the movements of the clouds, and
glances for a moment at the vane upon the church-steeple visible
above the surrounding houses. "Well, let me get home first, and
it may rain as long as it likes--all the better for my canes." So
saying, he gains his "top-gig," and carefully stepping in, and
placing his umbrella between his knees, he tells "John" to gather
up the reins, and make haste home. This is a resident proprietor
of a sugar-estate, a man with whom the world has long dealt well.
Another event that makes an inroad into business-hours, is the
occurrence of an auction-sale. When a gentleman or his family
intends paying a visit to England, one of their first
preparations is to "call an auction," and sell off all their
household furniture, carriages, and horses. Upon these occasions,
they print no compendious catalogues, as is the custom in
England; but an advertisement is inserted in the island weekly
papers, calling the attention of individuals to the fact, that
"The subscriber being about to proceed to England by the first
opportunity, will dispose of all his fashionable household
furniture, lately imported, consisting of,
HANDSOME FRENCH POLISHED MAHOGANY SIDEBOARD,
Dining, Loo, Card, and other tables, Glass, &c.
Also, a few choice articles of plate and plated goods; also, an
English-built Phaeton and Pair of Horses and
A FLOCK OF SHEEP.
Y. Z."
Now, this last announcement is but very seldom true. But as Mr.
Robins, of well-known auctioneering celebrity, calls to his aid
all the high sounding words and flaunting descriptions he can
get, to ensure company at his rooms, so the Antiguan auctioneer,
or _vendue-master_, as one of the craft calls himself, throws out
all the sprats he can in hopes of catching whales. The country
managers and overseers are often good purchasers; and to ensure
their company, the bait of a _flock of sheep_ is held out, which
has more effect in bringing them to the scene of action than
anything else. "I have no sheep," observed a gentleman one day to
an auctioneer he had employed. "Why do you put such notice into
the papers?"--"Oh! I know you have not," quoth the knight of the
hammer; "but it makes the advertisement look so much better, and
draws the attention of the planters--they all like to come when
sheep are to be sold."
Upon the day of this important undertaking, a red flag is hoisted
before the house, and the bellman perambulates the streets,
announcing that "the sale is just begun." Carpets are not taken
up, and beds taken down, mirrors torn from their resting-places,
and pots and pans brought into the drawing-room, as is often the
case in England; but everything remains in its usual situation,
only, perhaps, with a rather stricter eye to order than is
practised in common; and the auctioneer proceeds from one
apartment to the other, until the whole of the articles are
disposed of.
The company assemble about twelve o'clock, and the first lots,
consisting of glass-ware, china ornaments, or similar little
_knick-nacks_, are knocked down _very cheap_. Sangaree is then
handed about; and as its potent influence becomes apparent, the
heavier articles are brought forward, and often obtain high
prices.
As another means of ensuring good company and biddings, a kind of
lunch is provided; and then there is such a cutting-up of hams,
tongues, and salt-beef: such a calling for sangaree, punch,
"swizzle," and porter; such a laughing, choking, talking, and
eating, that a poor quiet body is glad to get into a corner, and
offer up a prayer for silence.
It is not always, be it remarked, that "the subscriber is going
to England," although such intimation heads the advertisement
that occasions these "auction sales," for very frequently they
are nothing more than an Antiguan scheme for "_raising the
wind_."
Previous to the abolition of the militia, field-days and reviews
often occurred, to abstract attention from business. Upon such
occasions, the gentlemen took great pride in exhibiting their
epaulettes and garnished coats.
In proof of this assertion, I need but relate the following
anecdote. A resident of Antigua, who, in days of militia glory,
served in the dragoons, went to a neighbouring island, of which
he was a native, to pay a visit to his friends. In order to
astonish the inhabitants, and create a "sensation," Mr. ------
determined to land in full uniform. The dress of the dragoons was
very smart, and the swords and steel scabbards they carried, very
long and heavy. Fancy, then, our brave _militaire_, who, by the
bye, is a very short and corpulent personage, with a redundancy
of colour, landing upon a sandy beach, beneath a burning sun, in
all the glory of blue cloth and yellow worsted, with his
Goliah-like weapon, scarcely twelve inches shorter than himself,
dangling, or rather dragging, gracefully by his side. Although of
little stature, he is big of heart; and proudly erecting his
head, and settling his shoulders, he marched along, amid a herd
of astonished boatmen and sea-side loiterers, with all the
dignity of a commander-in-chief. The news spread like wild fire--
astonishment was at its height--for rich and poor, black, white,
and coloured, all thought their _ci-devant_ neighbour was
Fortune's child, and had been promoted governor of his native
island. Before, however, any procession could be formed, or
salute fired to welcome his arrival, his real rank was
discovered; and as the truth became known, the assembled
multitude one after another departed, and left our gallant
dragoon "alone in his glory."
In speaking of the militia, I am reminded that I have not yet
mentioned the Christmas guards. Before the emancipation of the
negroes in 1834, martial law was put in force upon the 24th of
December, and continued during the three following days, which,
by law, constituted the Christmas holidays; and a militia guard
stationed at the guard-house in St. John's, in order to protect
the arsenal from any attack which might be made upon it by the
slaves, who were more at their leisure during that period than at
any other part of the year.
At such times, the whole body of the militia appeared in their
tinselled jackets, and the churches and chapels presented such an
array of glittering steel, and burnished epaulettes, blue and
gold, and red and silver, that the pews looked like beds of
ranunculi. When the guard for the night was comfortably fixed in
the guard-house, a complete scene of dissipation ensued. Wine,
cards, and dice, were liberally indulged in; and not
unfrequently, mirth and festivity paved the way for sorrow, care,
and quarrels. Upon one of these guard-nights, a wealthy German,
since deceased, met with such a run of ill luck at the
gaming-table, that the next morning he was obliged to hire
porters, and despatch the dollars he had lost to the house of his
adversary in _wheel-barrows!_ That was, however, in a time when
dollars were more plentiful in Antigua than they are at the
present day, and when doubloons were in such abundance, that, it
is said, the possessors of these costly coins found it necessary
to deposit them in barrels! But, alas for the bonny little isle!
that golden age has long ago passed by, and in its place we have
one of copper and paper money.
Before concluding this part of my work, I contemplated to enlarge
upon the "traits and trials" of that portion of the Antiguan
community, who, in absence of other qualifications, rest all
their claims to superiority upon the reputation of their being
_white people_. As these sketches, however, have been already
lengthened more than at first intended, but a very brief mention
of this class of individuals can be given.
I would not for one moment have it supposed that I am so
heartless as to upbraid them with their poverty--far be it from
me to hint at such a thing--no; it is their pride, their
overweening pride, I notice, and their hard struggles to ape _the
ton_, while at the same time they condescend to receive the
parish allowance, which ought really to be applied to the benefit
of those who possess humbler minds. The "son of Sirach" in his
wisdom, saith--"Three sorts of men my soul hateth, and I am
greatly offended at their lives;" and first among the trio he
mentions, "a poor man that is proud." Now, without making use of
such a strong expression as _hatred_, who can help noticing the
fulsome attempts of these persons to appear greater than they
are? while their wives and daughters, instead of dressing as
becomes their station, and thus rendering themselves respected,
figure away in rainbow-coloured gowns, and bonnets that would
better suit a strolling player, and then falsely think they merit
reward! Some few years ago, about the smartest ladies in the
Episcopal congregation were receiving parochial aid; but upon its
being officially notified that the names of all paupers would be
published, many of these dashing damsels became alarmed, and
resolved rather to depend upon their own unaided exertions than
let the world know how they procured their ribbons and laces.
But there is another class of white persons, who, although not
dependent upon parochial relief, dress and act equally beyond
their sphere in life. In illustration of this--A lady brings to
Antigua an English servant-girl, and before her mistress can
collect her scattered thoughts, after all the rolling and
bounding, pitching and jumping of the vessel in which she took
passage from Old England, the _femme de chambre_ is turned into
the fine lady; and ere, perhaps, six moons have waned, is united
in the holy bands of wedlock with a _ci-devant_ Irish soldier,
who plays the part of a policeman; a lately-imported English
ploughman; or, in lack of these, some red-faced overseer, who may
stand in want of that somewhat necessary appendage--a wife.
Servitude at an end, our fair lady makes a display of her
dignity, and all the cast-off graces of her former mistress--
wears very fashionable blonde caps, and long-skirted gowns--
patronizes hysterics and _eau de Cologne_--and laves her
previously hard-worked fingers with Rowland's Kalydor. Equipped
in all her finery, she next makes her appearance at church, and
when the service is over, bows and courtesies with self-approved
grace to any other _white lady;_ and then takes promenades with
her fiery-faced husband, while visions of future grandeur and
_invites_ to Government House float through her brain.
If "her lord" should be an overseer, the estate upon which he is
employed generally furnishes him with servants; but if instead,
he is an ex-son of Mars, or some similar grade, our _lady_
employs a black servant-girl of about eight years of age, to
conduct her domestic affairs; while her husband obtains another
specimen of juvenility, (but of course of an opposite sex,) to
play the part of groom to the Canadian pony he has lately
purchased for about four pounds sterling.
Although not _quite_ so thick
"As autumnal leaves that strow the brooks
In Vallambrosa,"
still ladies and gentlemen of the grade above described are no
_raræ aves_ in Antigua; in all parts of the island they more or
less abound, while in affectation and outward adornment they are
not to be equalled among the _pure in blood_.
------
[58] In former years there was a subscription assembly held at
"Smith's Tavern," then a noted house of entertainment, where
cards and dancing were resorted to until twelve o'clock, when
supper was introduced, and the festive party broke up about two
in the morning.
[59] The first Antiguan theatre was established by a party of
amateurs, and opened on 17th Jan. 1788, with Otway's play of
"Venice Preserved." The orchestra was composed of the band of the
69th regiment, (then stationed upon the island,) conducted by Mr.
Green, the late organist of St John's. The prices of admission
were, two dollars to the boxes, and one and a half dollar to the
pit; the funds being appropriated to the erection of a Free
Mason's Lodge (never finished), the remains of which are to be
seen at this day, at the east of the town.