The pure in blood--Aristocrats of the higher order--Law,
physic, and divinity--Merchants and planters--Proprietors'
dwellings--A day at a country-seat--Gastronomy--Beef--"Mary
Swift"--Mutton--Pork--Turtle and City aldermen--Christmas.
Having, in the preceding chapter, glanced at the "rise and
progress" of the _mushroom_ part of the aristocracy, it may be
deemed requisite for me to enlarge upon the merits of those
members of that body who, to present high bearing, add the claim
of good descent. And yet I know not what to say more than I have
done already in many parts of these pages, that they are fully
entitled to the respect they so universally meet with. For among
them are to be found men of superior knowledge, and distinguished
by the possession of all the cardinal virtues; men in whom
dignity of station is blended with kindliness of heart, and who,
amid the blessings wherewith Providence has blessed them, have an
open purse, and an outstretched hand, ever ready to administer to
the wants of their less fortunate brethren; men of agreeable
manners and pleasing conversation, and whose intercourse with the
polite circle in other parts of the world has corrected any
little errors they might have imbibed from their West Indian mode
of life, and divested them of that narrow-minded spirit so much
to be deplored.
In this class of individuals are to be found the Creole
proprietor, as well as those who may have purchased estates
within these last few years, and, in consequence, emigrated from
England, clergymen, barristers, and physicians, merchants and
planters, the offspring of the soil itself, or wanderers from the
several countries of England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales.
I have already spoken of the worth of many of the clergymen; men
who practise what they preach, and who, in their private as well
as public life, shew forth, by the fruit they bear, that they are
branches of the _true vine_. The barristers are generally
considered men of distinguished abilities, and some of them plead
with powerful eloquence. They also act as solicitors and
attorneys; but they honour the profession too much to speculate
in cargoes of horses or corn-meal, as some of their brothers of
the profession are said to do in an island not seventy miles from
Antigua. In that colony there is at the present day a firm,
consisting of three parties, who, to their numerous duties of
pleading before the bar, add the more primeval occupation of
agriculturists, the partners taking it by turns to play the
planter for the space of three years,[56] and so leaving Coke,
Blackstone, and similar other worthies, study instead the art of
_planting canes_ and _boiling sugar_. How far their professional
knowledge retains its vigour in the interim their several clients
can best tell; I suppose they refrain from tasting the waters of
Lethe, but pay daily orisons at the shrine of Mnemosyne. It must
not be supposed that all the barristers of the island in question
engage in such diversified occupations; many of them pay as much
respect to their profession as their brethren of Antigua do, and
among them are to be found some very clever men. One in
particular is possessed of very superior qualifications, and his
eloquent pleading would gain attention and merit applause even
within the ancient walls of Westminster. His name is also known
in the literary world, and his "Commentaries" upon the laws of
his native island have no doubt often materially benefited his
brother barristers. It is, of course, a work that would not call
for general attention, from its local nature; but if once taken
up, the author employs so many pleasing bands with which to bind
his bundle of _law leaves_ together, that the reader is
irresistibly led to peruse it to the end.
To return to Antigua. Perhaps the most eminent member of the
Antiguan bar is a Mr. James Scotland, who, although he does not
often indulge in that flowery style of oratory which some of his
brethren of the long robe do, speaks with powerful emphasis, and
is grounded in all the mazy doctrines of the law. Mr. S. is a
scion of a goodly stock. His ancestors emigrated from the mother
country, and became settlers in Antigua, in which island they
filled official situations at an early period, and where they
have ever maintained a high character for philanthropy and
liberal principles, even in days of prejudicial darkness. Such a
line of conduct has often drawn down persecution upon the members
of this family; but at length they have met with the reward of
their unflinching perseverance in seeing that large portion of
the Antiguan community whose interests they have ever supported,
enjoying the privileges of British subjects, without regard to
complexional prejudice.
The merchants are in most instances unexceptionable characters;
the planters rank high in agricultural knowledge and
respectability; and the physicians are, I believe, generally
noted for their eminent skill. It must be remarked that in this
last-named profession there are no gradations, all the medical
men ranking as M.D., whether they have attained that degree or
not; and so far is this custom carried by the illiterate, that
the very black or coloured boys, who are generally employed to
handle the pestle, also go by the title of "doctor;" nor is it an
uncommon circumstance for these illegitimate sons of Galen to be
called in to visit patients and perform those particular branches
of surgery, phlebotomy and extracting of teeth. The first
physician in Antigua is a Dr. F., a man of versatile and
brilliant talents--an able logician, well versed in polite
literature, of energetic manner, and, what is above all,
possessed of deep, heart-felt philanthropy, based upon that
golden maxim, "Do unto others as you would have others do unto
you."
Some of the proprietors' dwellings, situated upon their several
estates, in the most cultivated parts of the island, are mansions
which would not disgrace the parks of our English country
gentlemen. They, in most instances, are built upon gently
swelling eminences, spots of extreme beauty; and the contrast
they display between their dazzling white walls, and the deep
verdure of their surrounding groves, over-canopied by a sky of
intense blue, strikes pleasingly upon the eye; while the interior
is fitted up in a style worthy the taste of the occupiers.
The approach to many of these edifices is by stately avenues of
cedars, whose bright laurel-like leaves set off to advantage the
bunches of delicate trumpet-shaped flowers. Others, again, have
the carriage-road bordered by noble rows of cocoa-nuts or
palmettos, whose long graceful branches bend to the breeze, which
makes pleasing melody as it sighs among them. Their country-seats
embrace prospects of inexpressible loveliness. Nothing of what is
generally termed the sublime, it is true--no frowning precipices
or gigantic mountains, whose hoary heads are ever hid in the
clouds--no impetuous cataracts rushing down the face of wild and
blackened rocks, and hiding at length their angry waters in some
dreadful abyss; the scene is of a more quiet nature, one where
there is such a rich harmony of colouring, such a blending of
earth, and sea, and sky, (for from almost all parts of the island
the ocean can be seen,) that as the eye gazes thereon, a pleasing
calm comes over the beholder, and every discordant passion sinks
to rest.[57]
In these mansions, a system of open but elegant hospitality is
kept up; and like gentlemen's country-seats in England, they are
seldom devoid of puissant knights and lovely damsels. The day
passes as most days do in the country. Ample respect is paid to
the well-stocked breakfast table, where every West Indian luxury
abounds; and then the gentlemen separate to pursue their
respective avocations; ride round their estates, and mark the
progress of their canes, or as it is said, to hear them grow;
visit the capital, to perform their legislative duties, pay their
respects to his excellency the governor, or scan over accounts
with their agents. The ladies, in the meantime, amuse themselves
with various feminine and elegant employments; sometimes
accompanying their soft voices upon the piano, or on well-strung
harps, playing over those melting ditties which once brought
tears into the eyes of the "gentle shepherd," or the matchless
ploughman of Ayrshire. Others frequent the library, where the
works of our best writers may be met with; but the
spirit-stirring volumes of a Gore, a James, or incomparable
"Boz," are much more eagerly sought after, than a Boyle, a Locke,
or a Newton; but few of our West Indian ladies study philosophy
or metaphysics; a novel, a poem, a book of plays, or modern
travels, are the highest steps they take in literature.
At length comes the hour of luncheon, when other delicacies are
produced, and duly indulged in; and then the duties of the toilet
have to be attended to--a stray ringlet or a captivating dimple
taken to task--a smile, a look, or an attitude studied, until the
time arrives when a drive in the carriage, or a stroll through
some pleasant vale, is practicable. After enjoying these
exercises for some time, the dressing-room is once more sought,
and beauty receives every assistance that art can give her, in
direct opposition to the advice of the author of the "Seasons."
About seven, the whole party assemble around the dinner-table,
where luxurious fare and choice wines receive additional _gusto_
from a profusion of handsome plate, rich glass, snowy
table-linen, and a well-lighted apartment. I cannot in this
place, pass over the head of all West Indian confectionary, a
_floating island_, without further mention. Could I give an
authentic recipe for the making of it, my patriotic spirit would
lead me immediately to do so; but as that is not in my power, I
can only say it is compounded of cream, sugar, guava jelly, and
citron, and is of all sweets the very sweetest. Despite what
Baron Munchausen says to the contrary, I could, were all floating
islands like it, willingly live upon them; and consequently, his
strenuous exertions in driving stakes through them, to render
them stationary, as of erst he says he did St. Christopher's,
would meet with no thanks from me.
Dr. Johnson has remarked that the hour of dinner is the most
important of the twenty-four; be it so; like all other important,
as well as unimportant matters, time at length brings it to a
close. The drawing-room is once more sought, and in lively
conversation, or listening to soft strains of music, which our
lamented _Mrs. Hemans_ has so beautifully eulogized, the evening
passes away, or is closed in with a sprightly quadrille.
All West Indians of the higher rank keep a good table; indeed,
the custom has become proverbial. Not only does the island
contribute its fish, flesh, and fowl, but France and England pay
a tribute in the shape of potted meats and soup. The native beef,
it must be allowed, is horrible--lean, tough, and sinewy, it
requires all your masticatory powers to demolish it, and proves
not a bad illustration of the conundrum, "_If_ tough beef-steaks
could speak, what English poet would they name?" "Chaw-sir,"
(Chaucer.) Some West Indians, however, have asserted that they do
not like English beef, it is so "fat and tender!" so much for
custom. But the indifferent quality of the Creole beef is easily
accounted for, when the state of the animal before it is killed
is considered. The cattle bred upon the island, although very
small, are used instead of horses in agricultural labour, and are
of consequence of great value to the planter. They therefore
seldom think of killing them while it is possible for them to be
put to the plough, or worked in the cart; but when the planter
finds that they are utterly unfit for work, and that death will
soon put an end to their toil, or when a cow has become so old
and emaciated as to be unable to rear her calves, they make a
virtue of necessity, and give them up to the care of one of the
old men or women, who feed them about the estate for a few weeks,
and occasionally give them a little corn-meal to fatten them, and
then sell them to the butcher.
I have seen some of these _antediluvian_ creatures, if I may be
allowed to use that term, coming into the capital, particularly
about Christmas, lame and blind, faltering at every step they
made, that it has been a matter of surprise to me how they were
able to reach the shambles; but, poor creatures! there they
arrive, sooner or later, are quickly despatched, and, about seven
o'clock the next morning, you may hear the bellman hallooing out
--"Oyes! oyes! a fine fat ox, bery fat, indeed, to be had at the
shambles of Mary Swift," of famed renown! who, in person, amply
makes up in longitude what she loses in latitude. I cannot help
remarking, in this place, how much more humane the mode of
killing these animals, practised in Antigua, appears than that
customary in England. Here are no horrible slaughter-houses,
still reeking with the blood of those slain before, to harass the
poor animal's sense of smelling, and call for the assistance of
those cruel ropes to pull it in; neither is the dire mallet used,
which often requires so many strokes before life is extinct. A
little grass is scattered down beneath the shade of some
spreading tree, to which the creature is tied, and as it bends
its head, the butcher, with a sharp knife, separates the spinal
marrow between the horns, and death is instant.
The mutton introduced at the table of the gentry is
super-excellent--small, tender, and not too fat; something like
the Welsh mutton so justly esteemed by the opulent in England. It
is generally fed upon the Indian-corn, and gentlemen kill for
their own use. That procured at the shambles is generally very
indifferent, and not unfrequently goat mutton. Pork is another
viand admitted at times to enlarge the table-store. It is
considered by some to be the first meat in the West Indies; this,
however, I cannot accede to; the warmth of the climate is against
it, and makes it appear unseasonable. Goldsmith, in his "Manners
and Customs," mentions that pigs in the West Indies were always
fed upon sugar-canes. I have made inquiries upon this _important_
subject, and from the answers received, and my own observations,
am inclined to think that the family of grunters are forced to be
content with less luscious fare. Upon estates, when grinding,
they may, perhaps, get a share of what is termed the _mill-bed_,
but that is all the production of the cane they are allowed to
participate in, unless they march into a cane-field of their own
accord, and stand a chance of getting shot or stuck for their
pains, for a watchman is ever looking out for such intruders, to
whom he plays the executioner's part, and, after decollating,
takes, by right of law, the head for his own share.
Poultry is also a standing dish at a West Indian dinner. Before
emancipation, all kinds of feathered stock were very plentiful,
and very cheap; fowls could be purchased for from 6d. to 8s.
each, and turkeys, geese, guinea-birds, and ducks, in the same
proportion; but now it is different, the negroes requiring higher
prices for them. Most country gentlemen have, however, a
poultry-yard attached to their residence, and thus escape the
necessity of having to send, perhaps, half over the island before
their want can be supplied.
Rabbits and pigeons are occasionally added to the luxuries of the
Creole banquet; and venison finds its way from the neighbouring
island of Barbuda. Several very excellent kinds of fish, the
produce both of sea and fresh water, and shell-fish, allure the
eye of the epicure; and last, _not least_, the delicious turtle,
which at certain seasons is vended weekly at 9d. sterling per
pound! with all its rich green fat, its white and yellow eggs!
What would a city alderman say to this? would not his imagination
revel in all the delights of _calipash_ and _calipee_, and _real_
turtle soup? not made of beef and calf's head, with a few pieces
of turtle floating in it, to _stand its god-father_, as a late
gastronomic writer so aptly describes such soup as may be
obtained at the "London Tavern," or Cornhill, although that is
reckoned very excellent in its way. We are very soon to have the
steam ships running, or rather galloping, between England and
these islands; and I really think it would well repay that very
honourable body the "lord mayor, the sheriffs, and aldermen of
London," to take a trip, if it was only to partake of turtle in
perfection, and quaff a glass of Madeira, mellowed beneath this
burning sun.
Although hospitality is ever practised in Antigua, Christmas is
the season of the year when conviviality is at its height. Then
relatives meet together from all parts of the island,--then
friendly compacts are renewed, and family differences happily
adjusted, and sweet Concord, with beaming smile, wreaths once
more her golden chain. Although no glittering green mistletoe,
that "holy bough," hangs pendant from the ceiling, and calls the
attention of flashing eyes to its mystic berries, the fragrant
pimento adorns the halls of the rich, as well as the cottages of
the poor, while the laugh and song and
"Mirth-moving jest,"
throw around their pleasing witcheries. The tables groan beneath
their burdens; and among their goodly fare may be found, as the
old Christmas carol expresses it--
"Plum-pudding, goose, capon, minced pies, and roast beef."
------
[56] The estate belongs to "the firm."
[57] The principal of these country residences are--"Claremont,"
the seat of the Hon. R. E. Williams; "Cedar Hill," the seat of
the Hon. Wm. Byam, both of them truly paternal looking edifices;
"Gilbert," the seat of the Rev. Nat. Gilbert; "Mount Joshua," the
seat of the Hon. Bertie E. Jarvis; Green Castle, the seat of Sir
H. Martin, &c.