There are two sure ways of identifying a true southerner. One of them
is to play “Dixie.” Unlike your northerner, or counterfeit southerner
who springs to his feet and looks exalted and proud when the band
strikes up that swinging anthem, your true, or southern southerner
rarely springs. Generally he just sets and waggles one boot, and looks
happy or sentimental, according to his nature. That is one way of
detecting your true southerner. The second and surer way is to announce
in a tremulous voice: “Gemmen, dat potato pone am done set.”
The sweet potato pone is strictly a southern dish. It is served south
of the Mason and Dixon line hot and smoking. You don’t need much
experience as a cook, although the old rule which also places “perfect”
after “practice” of course holds good. Your ninth potato pone will be
better than your third. Here is the how:
Grind up raw sweet potatoes in a meat chopper until you have one quart.
Mix the grindings thoroughly in a bowl with molasses—enough molasses so
the mass is soft and sticky, or spongy.
Mix in a heaping tablespoonful of lard.
Add a teaspoonful of allspice.
Put the mixture in a cake tin and place in a slow oven. Stir constantly
until a rich brown hue is attained, then smooth over with a knife or
spoon and allow to bake slowly until a mellow brown crust is formed.
Remove from oven, allow to cool slightly, cut in slices and serve.
General Robert E. Lee would walk ten miles for a slice of it.