but very heavy ice off Cape Union for a time completely obstructed our
progress.
Excessive caution was necessary in handling the ship amongst these
ponderous floes. Patience combined with perseverance are essential
virtues inseparable to successful ice navigation, and they were
constantly called into requisition in order to ensure a safe deliverance
from the dangers which surrounded us.
A vigilant look-out had to be kept on the pack, and the ship was moved
from time to time in order to avoid a "nip." Frequently we would observe
a heavy floe coming into contact with the large grounded masses of ice
that lined the coast, forcing them over, or crumbling them into
shapeless fragments, thus clearly illustrating our own fate should we be
so unfortunate as to be caught between the two.
The orders "up" and "down screw and rudder" were given and executed
several times during each day. As on our outward journey, preparations
were now made for abandoning the ship at a moment's notice. Tents,
clothing, cooking utensils, and all necessaries for a life on shore were
spread out on the upper deck in readiness to be thrown on the ice in the
event of such a catastrophe.
The cool way in which we all spoke of the probable loss of our home, and
the prospect of being cast adrift at a moment's notice, was very
remarkable. Perhaps the knowledge that our consort, the "Discovery," was
within some forty miles of us, and therefore within easy travelling
distance, might account for the light manner in which such a calamity
was regarded; but it was impossible to disguise the fact that the loss
of our good ship would be a very serious, not to say uncomfortable,
event.
Steam had to be kept ready at a few minutes' notice, so as to take
advantage of every little opening that might occur in the ice, even
though we should only succeed in advancing a few hundred yards. On one
occasion the ship was purposely forced into the pack, with which it
drifted to the southward; but on the turn of the tide, when the ice
began to drift in the opposite direction, it was no easy matter to free
ourselves from the bondage to which we had voluntarily subjected
ourselves. If it can be avoided, it is best not to allow a ship to get
beset, even when the drift of the pack is favourable.
As we proceeded south, although our progress was slow, the change in the
appearance and massiveness of the ice was very palpable. Occasionally we
would meet small specimens of our palæocrystic friends, over which we
had travelled during the preceding spring, but, as a rule, the ice was
of a much lighter description. Still the floes were far heavier than
those met with in Baffin Bay, and by no means to be despised.
During the time the ship was detained, waiting for the ice to open to
allow her to proceed, our sportsmen were not idle, landing at all hours
of the day and night in order to procure fresh food for the sick. So
successful were they in their forays that the sick were supplied with a
fresh meat meal daily,--geese, ducks, and hares forming the principal
part of their "bags." The slaughter amongst the former was
tremendous--entire flocks numbering from fifty to seventy birds falling
victims to the prowess of not more than two guns, and within the short
space perhaps of half an hour! The unfortunate birds being in the act of
moulting were, of course, unable to escape the unerring aim of our
marksmen.
In addition to crops of mustard and cress that we succeeded in raising
on board, we were able to obtain small quantities of sorrel, which the
convalescents were sent on shore to gather from the valleys and sides of
the hills, often returning with sufficient to enable a limited allowance
to be served out periodically. Sometimes the sick men were sent on shore
themselves to _browse_ on this excellent antiscorbutic.
On the morning of the 5th of August, being within twenty miles of the
"Discovery," Egerton, accompanied by one of the men, was sent to give
them information of our position. Our own ship was then, and had been
for the past forty-eight hours, effectually jammed by the ice and unable
to move. In the mean time we on board the "Alert" were endeavouring to
get our vessel clean, and into something like order and ship-shape. On
the following morning we sustained a slight "nip," caused by the ice
setting rapidly in towards us. Our rudder head was badly wrenched before
the rudder could be unshipped, and the iron tiller was bent and
crippled. We only succeeded in easing the pressure by exploding some
charges under the ice. In the forenoon Rawson, with two of the men
belonging to the "Discovery," walked on board. We were, of course,
delighted to see them and to hear news of our consort.
From them we learnt that poor Egerton had lost his way, and did not
arrive on board their ship until after he had been wandering about for
eighteen hours! The news from the "Discovery" was what we feared.
Notwithstanding the large amount of musk-ox flesh procured by them
during the autumn and following summer, scurvy had attacked her crew in
almost the same virulent manner as it had ours. The return journeys of
some of their sledge parties were simply a repetition of our own.
Beaumont's division--the one exploring the north-western coast of
Greenland--had suffered very severely, and we heard with extreme regret
that two of his small party had succumbed to this terrible disease.
The rest of his men, with himself and Dr. Coppinger, had not yet
returned to the "Discovery," having remained in Polaris Bay to recruit
their healths. This was, indeed, a bitter ending to our spring campaign,
on which we had all set out so full of enthusiasm and hope. It had the
effect, however, of confirming Captain Nares in his resolution to
proceed to England. With such broken-down crews it would have been folly
indeed to have risked the rigours of a second Arctic winter; and there
was really nothing left for us to do, Beaumont having done his work so
well that it would have been impossible for us to have extended any
exploration in that quarter. The "Discovery" had been afloat for some
time, and was in perfect readiness to proceed to sea on the arrival of
Beaumont and his party. Their absence caused us great anxiety, as the
pack, being in motion between ourselves and Polaris Bay, and
consequently where they would have to cross, made us fully alive to the
risks and dangers they would encounter whilst crossing it. Still we
hoped to hear of their safe arrival as soon as we should drop anchor
alongside our consort in Discovery Bay.
The most important news was that a large seam of lignite of the Miocene
period had been discovered within about three miles of their winter
quarters. They had not been able to utilize this coal, but several large
specimens had been carried to the ship--the result of experiments made
being that it was reported, for steaming purposes, equal to the best
Welsh coal.
Whilst imprisoned by the ice and waiting to escape, our naturalist made
an interesting discovery within two hundred yards of the ship. On the
beach, about twenty feet above high-water mark, he observed some wood
which, on examination, proved to be portions of sledge runners and
cross-pieces; also a snow scraper, made from the tusk of a narwhal or
walrus, and a large lamp, apparently a piece of schistose rock hollowed
out.[1] These relics are the most northern traces of Eskimos yet found.
Their position would lead one to suppose that the wanderers had arrived
so far north along the shores on the western side of the channel, and
from thence crossed over to the opposite Greenland coast; the cliffs to
the northward being very steep, and although not actually impassable,
great difficulty would be experienced in travelling along their base.
This, and the absence of animal life, would readily account for their
desire to leave such an inhospitable and sterile land.
On the 7th and 8th of August the ship was subjected to some very severe
squeezes. On the latter day a large floe-berg pressed violently against
the vessel and forced her on shore, lifting the stern bodily out of the
water to a height of about five feet. The noise of the cracking of the
beams and the groaning of the timbers was a sound that once heard will
never be forgotten. To those below, the crumbling of the pitch in the
deck seams sounded like a shower of hail on the upper deck. Fortunately
for us the floe-berg was heavy and of deep flotation, and therefore
grounded before it had time to cause the destruction of the ship. It was
a grand sight to witness some of the neighbouring floe-bergs--great
masses of ice from sixty to seventy feet in thickness--turned completely
over and swept away by the pack in its irresistible career.
[Illustration: REDUCING A FLOE-BERG.]
We had no time, however, to indulge ourselves in watching spectacles of
such magnificence. Our position was by no means pleasant: any pressure
upon the ship, caused by spring tides or otherwise, must inevitably
crush her; and the prospect of another winter in the ice began to dawn
upon us. There was apparently no escape, as, from our experience of the
preceding year, we had cause to believe that, when once the floe-bergs
grounded along the coast, they remained immoveable during the whole
winter, and here were we forced on shore by a floe-berg which had
grounded immediately outside us. Our only chance was to reduce the huge
mass of ice by which we were imprisoned, so as to lighten it
sufficiently to float and drift away at high water. It was a bold idea;
but it was no sooner resolved on than every available working man in the
ship, irrespective of rank or station, was busily employed with axe,
pick, or chisel in demolishing the obstruction. On the third day, so
energetically was the work carried out, that the judicious explosion of
a heavy charge of powder immediately under the berg had the effect of
floating it away at high water, and the ship was released.
The pack being loose, we succeeded in making good progress, and on the
following evening had the very great satisfaction of anchoring alongside
the "Discovery," after having been separated from her for nearly twelve
months. An interchange of visitors immediately took place. Local news,
for want of more important intelligence, was fully and freely discussed,
and the routine of the winter and the doings of the sledge parties
formed topics of interesting conversation. The prolonged absence of
Beaumont and his party acted as a damper upon our spirits, for we could
not hide from ourselves the fact that their journey across the strait
must be a hazardous one. So uneasy did Captain Nares feel regarding
their safety that he determined upon going in search of them, even over
to Polaris Bay. Accordingly, on Sunday morning, the 13th of August,
having transferred all our sick and helpless hands to the "Discovery,"
and having our own ship's company supplemented by six men from our
consort, we again made a start, but were stopped by heavy ice at the
entrance of the harbour, through which it was quite impossible to
penetrate. On the following day, to our great delight, we observed a
tent pitched on the ice about three miles to the southward of the ship.
A relief party was quickly formed, and in a few hours we had the extreme
pleasure and satisfaction of welcoming Beaumont and his party on board,
none the worse for what they had recently gone through, and almost
indignant at all offers of assistance that were made to them. On account
of the drifting of the pack over which they had been travelling, their
work, during the last three or four days, had been excessively severe.
On occasions they were compelled to continue the march for thirty-two
and twenty-two consecutive hours without resting.
As the ice still remained packed and impenetrable, we were unable to
advance, although more than one unsuccessful attempt was made to push
on. On several occasions the dredge was hauled and with good and
interesting results. The coal seam was also visited by different parties
of officers. It exists in a visible seam on the northern side of a
ravine, and is about three hundred yards long and twenty-five high. We
were unable to ascertain its depth below the surface of the ground, or
its thickness.
[Illustration: H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE.]
We were also very fortunate in finding a large number of vegetable
fossils in the surrounding limestone, some of the leaf impressions being
very clear and perfect. At the head of the ravine is a magnificent cave,
formed by the two sides of the gorge and covered with a roof of frozen
snow. This roof is apparently permanent, as when we visited the cave it
was precisely in the same condition as when it was first discovered
twelve months before! The cave is very large, capable of
accommodating easily sixty or seventy men.
During these excursions several butterflies were caught and brought on
board as specimens, as also some flies, gnats, and other _diptera_. Many
hares were also shot, to the great delight of our doctor, who had been
working like a horse in order to bring his patients round.
The scenery in the channel between Bellot Island and the mainland,
through which we passed in one of our vain attempts to get south, was
very striking: bold cliffs, and hills rising to a height of two thousand
feet on either side, intersected by deep ravines and gorges having
almost precipitous sides and terminating in bays and little harbours.
On Sunday the 20th, by dint of boring and charging, at the expense,
however, of our rudder head, we succeeded in forcing a passage through
the ice in Lady Franklin Bay, and into a broad stream of water extending
along the coast to the southward, which we fondly hoped would eventually
lead us into open water.[2] But navigation in ice-bound seas is indeed
uncertain. For on the following day we were compelled to seek refuge
inside a land-locked and apparently well-protected and secure harbour.
How deceitful was its appearance! Hardly an hour had elapsed after
entering this sheltered retreat, before the "Alert" was severely nipped
by a heavy floe and forced on shore.
For many hours the ship remained in a very critical position, as the
tide receding left her completely high and dry, and listed over at an
angle of 25°.
So steep was the bank on which we had been forced, that at low water we
were able to walk, "dry shod," from the stem to the main chains, whilst
aft the water was over our mizzen chains, and within a short distance of
the taff-rail. A good sensational photograph and some sketches were made
of the ship in this unpleasant position. Strenuous efforts were, of
course, at once made to lighten and float the vessel. The fore part was
entirely cleared, and the chain cables brought aft. A bower anchor was
laid out astern in order to haul the ship off to.
The manner in which this latter work was performed was both novel and
ingenious. A small but heavy piece of ice was secured and brought
alongside the ship. On this was placed the anchor, as on a raft. It was
then towed by boats to the position decided upon, when the raft was
destroyed by exploding a charge of gunpowder immediately underneath it,
the anchor, of course, sinking to the bottom.
With such good will did all work, that we had the joy and satisfaction
of seeing our good ship afloat, and ready to proceed, in about fifteen
hours from the time of the accident taking place. The bay, which was the
scene of our mishap, was called Rawlings Bay, after one of our men, who
was my sledge captain in all my expeditions. A musk-ox skull and the
horn of a reindeer were picked up by Feilden close to where the ship was
aground, proving that the neighbourhood is occasionally visited by these
animals.
From this time, until the 9th of September, we were engaged in a
never-ceasing struggle with the ice, frequently detained for many hours,
and rarely advancing more than a few hundred yards during the day. The
fast-forming ice reminded us unpleasantly of the near approach of
winter, whilst the land had again assumed its wintry covering of snow.
On the 22nd of August candles had to be used below at midnight for
reading or writing. The young ice was found very tenacious, glueing and
cementing the broken fragments of floes together. This caused such an
impediment to our advance, although the pack was what is termed loose,
that we were on several occasions compelled to relinquish all attempts
at penetrating farther, and to secure the ships until a more favourable
opportunity should occur. Our stock of coal, too, was getting alarmingly
small, and had to be very carefully economized. Without the means of
steaming, our chance of escape would, indeed, have been small.
On the 24th we rounded Cape Fraser;[3] on the 27th,[4] so slow was our
progress, that we only just succeeded in getting into Dobbin Bay, where
we were detained until the 3rd of September. The temperature had fallen
to 19°. Last year we were frozen up on the 3rd of September, and here
were we on the same date with as low a temperature and many miles to
accomplish before we could actually be clear of the ice!
Snow also began to fall heavily, and everything appeared gloomy and
inhospitable. As there was now a prospect of our being forcibly detained
for another winter in the ice, and as some of our provisions were
getting low, on passing the large depôt established in Dobbin Bay on our
way up the previous year, we landed and brought off all the tea, sugar,
and chocolate, and such other articles as we were likely to require.
Whilst this work was in progress, a large ground seal (_Phoca barbata_)
was shot by Hans, of the "Discovery," on which was found a partially
healed wound; on further examination, an iron-pointed harpoon with an
ivory socket, evidently of Eskimo construction, was discovered imbedded
in its blubber. It would have been very interesting if we could have
traced, by the manufacture of the instrument, the tribe to which it had
belonged and the locality where the wound was inflicted.
One morning, when some little distance from the land, a small fox, of a
mottled colour, wandered off to the ship, being attracted towards us
either by hunger or curiosity. The officer of the watch, always on the
_alert_, soon spied the little animal cruising about amongst the
hummocks and shot it. The skin was preserved with the collection of
natural history specimens, whilst the body was eaten by us at dinner and
found to be delicious. Passing Cape Hawks, and Allman Bay, an inlet
which was named after the distinguished President of the Linnæan
Society, we continued to push the ships in the direction of open water
to the south, which we at length reached.
It was with no small amount of thankfulness that on the 9th of September
we emerged from the cold, grim clutches that seemed only too ready to
detain us for another winter in the realms of the Ice King, and that we
felt our ship rise and fall once more on the bosom of an undoubted ocean
swell. It was, indeed, a joyous sensation to look around and see nothing
but blue water, and, with the exception of a few straggling bergs, not
a single speck of ice in sight. This broad sheet of water had for some
time been known to us, having been observed from the summits of various
hills that we had ascended, and all our energies of late had been
concentrated into reaching it. We had a hard fight, but perseverance and
patience ultimately proved triumphant.
[Illustration: ALLMAN BAY.]
On first reaching it, we found it to be coated with a thin layer of
young ice, which offered a great deal of hindrance, although it had not
the effect of checking us altogether. Our course through this young ice
could be distinctly traced for a long distance astern, by a broad lane
of water resembling the Suez Canal. At 6 P.M. we passed Cape Sabine, and
distinguished our cairn on the top of Brevoort Island apparently
untouched. Ahead was Cape Isabella, towards which we steered.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] I have already referred to this discovery in my remarks on the
migrations of the Eskimos, at p. 69.
[2] At this time the "Pandora" was cruising in the entrance of Smith
Sound, with an impenetrable barrier of ice blocking her way to the
northward.
[3] On this day the "Pandora" succeeded in landing a party on Cape
Isabella for the second time, searching for a record.
[4] On the 27th the "Pandora" was driven out of Smith Sound by a
gale.
CHAPTER XXVII.
HOMEWARD BOUND.
"Still in the yawning trough the vessel reels,
Ingulfed beneath two fluctuating hills;
On either side they rise, tremendous scene,
A long dark melancholy vale between.
The balanced ship, now forward, now behind,
Still felt the impression of the waves and wind,
And to the right and left by turns inclined."
FALCONER.
"_Montano._--What from the cape can you discern at sea?
_1st Gent._--Nothing at all: it is a high-wrought flood;
I cannot, 'twixt the heaven and the main,
Descry a sail.
_Montano._--Let's to the seaside, ho!
_3rd Gent._--Come, let's do so;
For every moment is expectancy
Of more arrivance. (_Within._) A sail! A sail!
_4th Gent._--The town is empty; on the brow of the sea
Stand ranks of people, and they cry--a sail!"
_Othello._
Shortly before midnight, on the 9th of September, Cape Isabella was
reached and the ships were clear of Smith Sound. As, on our outward
journey, to me had been allotted the duty of erecting a cairn on that
prominent headland, and establishing a post office, so, on our return
journey, was I assigned the duty of visiting the place in order to
ascertain if letters had been deposited there during the period of our
absence by any enterprising friend. On reaching the lower cairn, to my
great surprise--for we hardly expected that any one would have visited
the place since our departure the previous year--I found an additional
cask had been placed alongside the one that I had established there.
This was quickly opened, and found to contain a small mail for each
ship.
Hurriedly leaving a record notifying our visit, we eagerly seized our
treasures and made the best of our way to the boat. Great was the
excitement when the news spread that a mail from England was actually on
board, and we were soon deep in the enjoyment of perusing late letters
from home, a pleasure to which we had so long been strangers.
Many were the heartfelt expressions of gratitude that rose to the lips
of those lucky recipients of home news towards that gallant officer and
friend who had so perseveringly and so generously, in spite of many
dangers and difficulties, succeeded in depositing their letters so far
north. The bulk of our mail we imagined had been left either at Disco or
Upernivik. Had we examined the cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella, we
should there have learnt that the same kind and disinterested friend had
taken them to Littleton Island, and there safely deposited them. Being
ignorant of this fact, and the weather being against our proceeding
thither, a course was shaped to the southward; those who were under the
impression that our English letters were really on that island being
consoled by the fact that we were steering homewards, and that in a
short time letters would be no longer necessary or of any value.
Wars, and rumours of wars, were prevalent, for our latest news came from
England at the time when all Europe was disturbed and unsettled by the
complexion of affairs in the East.
This made us all the more anxious to get home quickly; but alas!
everything was against us. Tempestuous weather, with the wind _always_
contrary, was our introduction to our own element, and, as our coal was
running very short, we were obliged to put the ships under canvas and
thrash them at it. Icebergs were innumerable, and, as the nights were
increasing in length and the darkness in density, they were anything but
pleasant neighbours.
On the 12th of September it was blowing so hard and the weather was so
thick, that it was determined to seek an anchorage under the lee of the
land in Whale Sound, and there wait until the weather moderated. With
this object the ships were worked up under fore and aft sails and steam,
eventually anchoring in a small bay (Bardin Bay) in close proximity to
the Tyndall Glacier. As we came in we observed an Eskimo settlement on
the eastern side of the bay, and several natives were seen running along
the land towards us; but as the glacier intervened they were unable to
communicate, and the weather was too bad to allow us to send a boat to
them. This was much to be deplored, as, irrespective of the fact that
these people were the first human beings that we had seen for many a
long month, it was desirable that we should propitiate them in favour of
white men, and for this purpose we had many little articles of infinite
value to them, such as knives, needles, thread, scissors, etc., besides
provisions, ready for their acceptance.
These natives were of the same tribe as those who were so kind to Kane
and Hayes, and also to the "Polaris," so it would have been a good
action, independently of all other reasons, could we have befriended
them.
We had not been at anchor, however, more than five hours before a change
of wind, accompanied by heavy squalls which came over the hills fast and
furious, obliged us to get under weigh, and again put to sea, although
the weather was as thick and the wind as strong as ever--added to which
hail and snow showers were frequent: altogether a very unpleasant and
miserable night was spent, for it was nearly midnight when we were
forced to fly from our harbour.
On the 16th we were beating about off the entrance to Lancaster Sound,
near Cape Byam Martin. This was all familiar ground to me, and brought
back to my recollection scenes on board the old whaler, "Arctic," that
had occurred in the same locality three years before. We made many tacks
in our endeavours to weather Cape Walter Bathurst, but, for a long time,
without success, for the wind invariably headed us on each tack.
On the 20th several eider-ducks, some turnstones, rotges, and
snow-buntings were seen, but all going in a southerly direction,
apparently anxious to seek warmer climes before the winter should have
claimed both the sea and land. How we envied these birds their means of
locomotion! for foul and strong winds causing slow progress, were
beginning to be very irksome. Our old friends the "mollies" (fulmar
petrels), that we had not seen for so long, again joined us, and might
be seen continually darting down and picking up in their voracious maws
all scraps that had been thrown overboard.
[Illustration: FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES").]
The persistent manner in which the bad weather clung to us was quite
marvellous. Hardly a fine day had been enjoyed since we emerged from the
ice. The words of Falconer would have been applicable to us, and might
have been repeated with truth every morning:
"A lowering squall obscures the southern sky,
Before whose sweeping breath the waters fly.
* * * * *
It comes resistless! and with foaming sweep,
Upturns the whitening surface of the deep."
At length, after being buffeted about for many days, the high land of
Disco was sighted on the 25th of September; and on the same day we came
to an anchor in the little harbour of Godhavn, and congratulated
ourselves once more upon our return to civilization.
The day, as if to make up for our previous bad weather, was a bright
sunny one, and perfectly still and calm. This was all the more
appreciated after the turbulent seas which had lately almost driven us
distracted. The scenery coming in was very beautiful. On one side were
the high cliffs of Disco, intersected here and there with deep fiords
and bays, whilst on the other lay the perfectly quiescent sea, studded
with icebergs of all shapes and sizes. Occasionally the surface of the
water would be ruffled and disturbed by the appearance of a seal's head,
as the inquisitive little animal would pop it up to gaze curiously at us
as we steamed slowly by; or else a whale, as he swam lazily along, would
give a flick with his huge tail, or spout a jet of water in the air,
which might be taken either as a welcome back to more genial climes, or
an angry remonstrance that a monster larger than himself should dare to
live in his own particular domain. Birds flew around and alighted near
us. One, a ger-falcon, was so bold as to venture to perch upon our
fore-royal truck; but, I am ashamed to relate, was fired at for its
misplaced confidence. It escaped, however, unhurt. Everything was bright
and joyous, and all were happy and elated. Our joy was slightly marred
on arrival to find that our mails had really been taken on and left at
Littleton Island; but a mail, with letters of a later date than those
brought out by the "Pandora," which had been got together and made up
for us at Copenhagen by my cousin, had just arrived in the Danish brig
"Tjalfe."
Of course it could not be expected that, during the period of our
absence from England, no sad changes should have taken place, and the
sorrowful faces of more than one among us testified to the fact that
some dear and loved ones would be seen no more in this world.
From Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, we learnt that the "Pandora" had
only taken her departure for England four days previously, having been
unsuccessful in her endeavours to reach Cape Sabine. The attempt had
only been relinquished by her commander when the lateness of the season
compelled him to beat a retreat. A supply of beer, sent from England by
my cousin, was found awaiting our arrival, and was most acceptable. A
cask of beer had also been kindly left for our use by Allen Young, so
that we were enabled to supply "all hands" with a glass of beer twice a
week during the passage to England. Through the kindness of the Danish
authorities, we were able to obtain thirty tons of coal, with a promise
of thirty more if we chose to go to Egedesminde, another settlement
about sixty miles to the southward. This was an offer too valuable to be
disregarded, and was accepted by Captain Nares.
Having shifted our rudder, which, to use an American phrase, was "pretty
considerably chawed up," from its treatment by the ice, and made good a
few other defects, we took our departure from Godhavn on the morning of
the 28th, Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, coming on board to accompany
us round to Egedesminde. As we steamed out of harbour the little
three-gun battery fired a farewell salute, the ensigns on shore, and on
board, were dipped, and the ladies (two in number), from their
verandahs, waved with their pocket handkerchiefs a last adieu. It was a
fine clear morning as we left; but a thick fog soon overtook us, in
which we remained enveloped for the remainder of the day, and it was not
until the following morning that we reached our destination.
Our way took us through a perfect labyrinth of small islands, some of
the narrow channels through which we had to pass being almost blocked by
large grounded masses of ice, remnants of icebergs. The "Alert" and
"Discovery" being the first steamers that had ever visited Egedesminde,
the natives turned out in force to witness our arrival. Several kayaks
came skimming rapidly along the smooth and unruffled surface of the
water as we approached, their occupants gazing with evident astonishment
at the large "umiaks," whose motive power was to them invisible and
incomprehensible. The Danish flag was run up on three separate
flag-staves on shore, and a salute of seven guns was fired to welcome
our arrival.
There is much similarity about the various Danish settlements in
Greenland. The houses are of the same size and colour, and generally of
about the same number, whilst all possess their little church, their
storehouse, and their cooperage. The settlement is very prettily
situated on the northern side of the largest of a group of many islands
of all sizes. These are of the same metamorphic formation, and possess
a more luxuriant vegetation than we had hitherto seen. The island is
covered with numerous small lakes and ponds, and is extremely marshy and
swampy. The difficulty of walking, without sinking up to the ankles in a
bog, is very great.
The population of Egedesminde, which is the most southern settlement in
the Inspectorate of North Greenland, is about one hundred and thirty
souls, including the Danes, who with the Governor and his family number
about twelve. The entire population of North Greenland is about four
thousand three hundred.
The boggy substance, like peat, is dug up and stacked during the summer,
and when dried is very generally used as fuel. The chief employment of
the inhabitants is, as at the other settlements, that of collecting
skins and blubber. Reindeer are obtained on the mainland, but they are
not plentiful.
The Governor, Mr. Boldroe, was good enough to present us with a fine
large haunch of venison; but, curious to relate, when served up, it had
an unmistakeable taste and odour of musk! Our scorbutic patients, who
were at this time nearly all convalescent, benefited largely from the
quantities of fresh fish, principally cod, obtainable at this place.
On the morning of the 2nd of October, having received on board the
amount of coal promised, we bade our kind friends farewell, and steamed
away amidst the usual firing of guns and dipping of colours. The
stoppages at these two civilized places were very pleasant breaks to us,
after our long absence from society of any description, except our own,
and were not regretted by any one. Indeed, the kindness and true
hospitality extended to us by our Danish friends in the different
settlements in Northern Greenland will long be remembered with feelings
of gratitude and pleasure.
From the date of leaving this our last port until our arrival at
Valentia, we experienced very tempestuous weather. Strong head winds
were in constant attendance, and the ship's general state was being
"battened down and under close-reefed topsails." Under these
circumstances our daily rate of progress was remarkably slow, and on
some days we found that we had actually increased our distance from home
instead of having lessened it. Few on board had before experienced a
longer continuance of really stormy weather. From the severe buffeting
we received, our rudder, already crippled, was reduced to such a state
as to be absolutely useless, the rudder-head being almost wrenched off,
and we were obliged to steer the ship during the remainder of the voyage
by means of the rudder pendants.
On the 16th of October, to the intense surprise of everybody, a vessel
was sighted ahead, which proved to be the "Pandora." How very small is
this world we live in! Here were we in the middle of the broad Atlantic,
fifteen hundred miles from England, and out of the course of all ships,
and yet actually meeting a vessel that had purposely come out to seek
us.
The weather was too bad to allow us to communicate, but an interchange
of news was effected by signal. The three ships remained in company for
a couple of days, when they lost sight of each other in thick and blowy
weather, we having previously ordered the "Discovery" to rendezvous at
Queenstown in case of parting company.
Our rudder being in such a dilapidated state, Captain Nares determined
upon putting in to Valentia for the purpose of shifting it, the spare
one having in the mean time been temporarily repaired. With this object
we anchored in the snug little harbour of Valentia, on the 27th of
October, and here Captain Nares and several of the officers left for the
purpose of proceeding at once to London to report our arrival.
"Now, strike your sayles, yee jolly mariners,
For we be come unto a quiet rode,
Where we must land some of our passengers
And light this wearie vessel of her lode.
Here she awhile may make her safe abode."
It is in vain to attempt to describe the pleasure we all felt at
beholding trees and green fields once more, with the cattle browsing in
them. It is difficult at once to throw off old habits, and there were
many on board who expressed their anxiety to land at once with their
guns for the purpose of shooting "that herd of musk-oxen." Had we given
way to our inclinations, I fear our reception would not have been so
warm or so hospitable as it was.
The people of Valentia were the first to bid us welcome. Their kindness
and hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. The rudder having
been shifted, and sundry repairs executed, we took our departure on the
following morning at daylight, being guided out of the place by a most
eccentric and original old pilot. On the 29th we reached Queenstown,
where we found the "Discovery" had arrived only a couple of hours
before. Here again we received a warm welcome and enjoyed that hearty
hospitality for which the Irish people are so justly celebrated. That
evening we were the guests of the Port Admiral, he and Mrs. Hillyar
hearing of no refusal, although we had to sit down to dinner in--well,
clothes very dirty and very much the worse for wear. The next day,
having taken in a supply of coals, we started for Portsmouth, the two
ships remaining in company and arriving in that harbour together on the
2nd of November.
Our reception there and afterwards is a matter of history. Suffice it to
say that our exertions received the approbation of our country and of
our brother officers, and that the Lords of the Admiralty were pleased
to express their satisfaction at the manner in which the expedition had
been conducted by our leader, as well as at the way in which the work
had been carried out by his subordinates.
My story has now come to an end. My aim has been to describe our daily
life during a very eventful service.
I have quoted largely from my journal, and in some instances I have
thought it best to copy from it _verbatim_.
Nothing is further from my thoughts than to claim for this narrative any
literary merit whatever. I simply wish it to be regarded as a plain but
accurate statement of facts--an unpretending account of the cruise of
one of the ships of the late expedition--by one of its members.
In launching my little book upon the ocean of literature, I venture to
quote the words of brave old Master Beste, who, being engaged in
compiling a record of another Arctic expedition, humbly apologizes, as I
do, for submitting his work to the public:--"And herein I humbly pray
pardon, for my rude order of writing, which proceedeth from the barren
brayne of a souldier and one professing armes, who desireth rather to be
wel thought of with your honour for his well meaning than for anye hys
cunning writing at all."
[Illustration: _FAREWELL!_]
INDEX.
Admiralty, Lords of, visit to the Polar ships, 9;
satisfaction at the results of the expedition, 368.
Admiralty Inlet, remains of Eskimos on shores of, 68.
Albert Head, 65.
Aldebaran, erratic conduct of, 200.
Aldrich, Lieut. Pelham, R.N., skill in managing a kayak, 30;
starts on a reconnoitring expedition in the autumn, 128;
second autumn journey with dog-sledge, 133;
starts on a third autumn journey, 136, 137;
ascends a hill near Cape Joseph Henry, 147;
glees by, 169, 216;
his lecture on meteorology, 169;
orchestra for the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171, 175, 214;
plays the harmonium at church, 187;
one of his dogs lost, 190;
plays at Christmas, 194, 195;
commands the extended party to the west, 241;
anxiety for his safety, 331;
return, 332.
Ale, prepared specially for the expedition, 17.
(_See_ Beer.)
"Alert," H.M.S., 1, 2;
special fittings, 3;
departure from Portsmouth, 9;
leaves Berehaven, 12;
commencement of the voyage, 15;
a lively ship, 17;
arrival at Godhavn, 26;
departure from Godhavn, 34;
on shore, 43;
proceeds to Cary Islands, 48;
Port Foulke, 51, 56;
perilous position of, 65, 91;
at Hannah Island, 100;
in Discovery Harbour, 104, 108, 293;
on shore near Cape Beechey, 112;
in the palæocrystic ice, 117, 118;
crosses the threshold of the unknown region, 119;
danger at Floe-berg Beach, 125, 134;
precarious winter quarters, 125, 135, 136;
housed in, 154;
internal winter arrangements, 156;
printing establishment, 165;
departure of sledges from, 257;
scurvy breaks out on board, 321;
succour from, reaches N. division, 325;
freed from winter quarters, 342;
forced on shore, 351;
afloat again, 347;
at Valentia, 367.
(_See_ Winter Quarters.)
"Alexandra," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
Alexandra Bay, 61, 63.
Amusements in winter quarters, 167;
importance of, 163.
(_See_ Theatricals.)
_Anonyx nugax_: crustacea brought up at the extreme northern point, 309
(_n._).
Arctic Circle crossed by the expedition, 26.
Arctic Highlanders, 48.
(_See_ Eskimo.)
Arctic school, 166, 167, 213.
Arctic theatre. (_See_ Theatricals.)
"Arctic," whaler, reminiscences of, 360.
Astronomical observatory, 153, 180.
Astronomy, lecture on, by Captain Nares, 169;
by Commander Markham, 169.
Atanekerdluk, fossil plants at, 36.
Atlantic, gales of wind in, 17, 18.
Auks, Little. (_See_ Rotges.)
Autumn depôt. (_See_ Depôts.)
Autumn travelling, 128, 129, 133, 137 to 150;
discomfort, 141;
severe work, 147, 148;
return from, 148, 149;
results, 149.
Auxiliary sledges, 234.
Ayles, Adam, song by, 216.
Bache Island, of Hayes, not an island, 64.
Baffin, William, gave name to Woman Isles, 41.
Bag (sleeping), 139, 233, 235, 240, 279, 283, 287.
Baird Inlet, 57.
Baird, Cape, stopped by ice off, 103.
Banks Island, heavy pack on west coast, 200.
Bantry Bay. (_See_ Berehaven.)
Bardin Bay, 359.
Barrow, Cape John, 93.
Bears, hunt in Melville Bay, 46;
recent tracks, 86.
Beaumont, Lieutenant, H.M.S. "Discovery," his journey along the north
coast of Greenland, 346;
return of, 350.
Beechey, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
lane of water in direction of, 102, 112, 113;
rounded, 114.
Beer at Godhavn, 363.
Bellot, Cape, 103, 112;
Island, 112, 351.
Berehaven, expedition at, 12.
Bessels Bay, entrance passed, 100;
description of, 101.
Bessels, Dr., observation as to meetings of tides at Cape Fraser, 92;
coast-line correctly delineated by, 99.
Beverley, crimson cliffs of, 48.
Bide-a-wee Harbour, 58.
(_See_ Payer Harbour.)
Bills of fare, 185, 186, 196, 335.
(_See_ Play-bills.)
Birds of the Arctic regions, 24, 35, 50;
Brent geese, 345;
dovekies, 50, 101;
eider duck, 101, 131, 360;
falcon, 362;
fulmar petrel, 361;
glaucous gulls, 50;
ivory gulls, 50, 101;
kittiwakes, 50;
king ducks, 50, 332;
knots, 110;
looms, 40, 50;
ptarmigan, 225;
rotges, 46, 50, 360;
skuas, 332;
terns, 110, 332;
turnstones, 360.
Birthdays, celebration of, 184, 185.
Black, Cape, 253.
Blasting the ice, 87, 89, 90, 341, 349.
"Bloodhound," H.M. sledge, 259, 263.
Boats for the expedition, 4;
search for, left by Hayes, 53, 55;
on a sledge, 58;
jolly-boat of "Valorous" landed in Dobbin Bay, 84;
turned in on their davits owing to height of ice, 90;
advanced to northward of ship, 133;
hauled up during winter quarters, 157;
on sledges, 242 (_n._);
in Parry's expedition, details of, 243 (_n._);
painted, 245;
care of, on sledge, 279;
abandonment of, by Commander Markham, 288, 289, 318.
Boldroe, Mr., governor of Egedesminde, 365.
Botanical collections, 31.
Botany. (_See_ Vegetation.)
Bottle-nose whales, 20.
Brent geese, 345.
Brevoort Island, 57;
cairn on, 356.
Brevoort Cape in sight, 103.
"Bruin," largest dog on board, 210.
Bryant, Geo., H.M.S. "Discovery," serving in the "Alert," 169.
Buchanan Strait, Eskimo remains at, 69.
"Bulldog," H.M. sledge, 217, 259, 263.
Burroughs, Geo., ship's steward, H.M.S. "Alert," acts in _Chops of the
Channel_, 173.
Butterflies, 351.
Byam Martin Cape, 360.
Cairns at the Cary Islands, 49;
at Life-boat Cove, 53;
at Cape Isabella, 56;
on Brevoort Island, 356;
ancient cairns on Washington Irving Island, 85;
on Hannah Island, 101;
at Lincoln Bay, 117;
at the "Alert's" winter quarters, 284.
Cairn Hill, 219, 220, 221, 225;
cairn built, 341.
Cane, Frederick, armourer, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 215.
Carl Ritter Bay, 99.
Cary Islands, 48;
depôt on, 49, 84.
Castletown. (_See_ Berehaven.)
Cave in the snow, 350.
Cetaceans, various kinds, 20, 21.
"Challenger," H.M. sledge, 217, 259.
Chlorine observations, 180.
_Chops of the Channel_, play acted by the men, 173.
Chorus, grand palæocrystic, 216.
Christmas in the Arctic regions, 192 to 197;
bill of fare, 196;
poem on, 196.
Clavering, Captain, Eskimo seen by, on east coast of Greenland, 69.
"Clements Markham," H.M. sledge, 217;
starts for "Discovery," 248.
Clements Markham Inlet, 288.
Clothing during winter, 159, 160;
sledging, 239.
(_See_ Foot-gear.)
Coal, discovery of, 350;
offer of, at Egedesminde, 363.
Cod-fish, 21, 25, 365.
Colan, Dr., H.M.S. "Alert," his lecture on food in the Arctic regions,
169;
medical instructions to officers of sledges, 238;
skilful treatment of Petersen, 255;
attention to scurvy patients, 333, 338, 345.
Cold, extreme, 208, 222, 224.
(_See_ Temperature.)
Collinson, Cape, 94.
Cook, while sledging, 235, 265.
Cooking apparatus, weight, 233;
description, 235.
Copenhagen, letters sent out from, 363.
Coppinger, Dr., H.M.S. "Discovery," state of lime-juice found by, in
Polaris Bay, 305;
journey with Lieut. Beaumont, 346.
Cress. (_See_ Mustard and Cress.)
Crimson cliffs of Beverley, 48.
Crinoids dredged up, 73.
Crow's-nest, description, 3;
Captain Nares constantly in, 66;
a cold berth, 98.
Crozier Island passed, 98.
Crustaceans dredged up at the extreme northern point, 309.
Cryolite mine in Greenland, 20.
Crystal Palace Glacier, 50.
Dancing at Christmas, 197;
old year, 204.
Darkness, approach of, 127;
in sledge travelling, 141;
in winter, 178, 182;
monotony of, 207.
Davis, John, musicians in the expedition of, 8;
gave name to Cape Desolation, 22, 23.
Davis Strait, 18, 19, 20.
Daylight. (_See_ Light.)
Deaths. (_See_ Petersen, Porter, "Discovery.")
Depôts on Cary Isles, 49;
Cape Isabella, 56;
Dobbin Bay, 85, 353;
Cape Collinson, 95;
Cape Morton, 102;
Lincoln Bay, 117, 248;
Floe-berg Beach, 122, 124;
near Cape Joseph Henry, 147, 149, 263, 321;
to southward of Floe Berg Beach for "Discovery" sledges, 255;
for sledge parties, 234.
"Deptford," snow storehouse so called, 154.
Desolation, Cape, 22.
Diptera, 351.
Disco, 6, 18, 34, 358, 362;
tradition of, 33, 34;
view from hills of, 31.
(_See_ Godhavn.)
Disco Bay, 31.
"Discovery," H.M.S., 95;
departure from Portsmouth, 9;
commencement of voyage, 15;
sighted off Greenland coast, 25;
towed by the "Alert," 41;
following, 45;
sent to communicate with natives at Cape York, 48;
at Port Foulke, 56;
perilous position, 65;
grounds off Cape Louis Napoleon, 90;
in great danger, 91;
blown from her anchors, 95;
lands a depôt at Cape Morton, 100;
in harbour, 104;
winter quarters of, 107;
sledge crew from, joins the "Alert," 108;
theatre on board, 174;
a health to, 217;
depôts laid out for sledges of, 227;
work of sledge parties, 242;
arrangement for opening communication with, from "Alert," 246, 255;
to return to England, 330;
joined by "Alert," 344, 345;
scurvy among crew of, 346;
two deaths, 346;
rendezvous at Queenstown, 367.
Discovery Harbour, 104, 106, 112;
"Alert" arrives at, 347.
Distant, Cape, walk to, 110;
"Alert" passes, 112.
Divine service, 187;
on Christmas day, 195;
before sledges start, 258, 259.
Dobbin Bay, 83, 86;
depôt at, 84, 353.
Dock cut in the ice at Dobbin Bay, 86.
Dockyard. (_See_ Portsmouth.)
Dog-driver. (_See_ Petersen.)
Dogs, Eskimo, 29, 38, 78, 79;
disease, 79;
wailing, 88;
habits, 130;
sledging, 80, 81, 128;
dog "Sallie" lost and found, 190, 191;
alarm of during winter, 199;
nearly steal musk-ox beef, 207;
alarm caused by, 210;
regularly fed, 210;
team sent with sledge to "Discovery," 247, 255;
trouble with, 253.
(_See_ Bruin, Sallie, Flo, Nellie.)
Dovekies, 50, 101, 115.
Draba, 57, 340.
Dredging, 25, 73, 102.
Driftwood, 112.
Drip. (_See_ Snow.)
Drip, inconvenience of, in winter, 182.
Ducks. (_See_ Birds.)
Dumb-bell Bay, 131.
Dundas Harbour, remains of Eskimos at, 68.
D'Urville, Cape, passed, 83.
Edinburgh, H.R.H. the Duke of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
Egedesminde, offer of coals at, 363;
expedition at, 364, 365.
Egerton, Lieut. George Le Clerc, R.N., officer of the watch when the
ship touched the first ice, 22;
starts on autumn travelling, 133;
stage manager of the Royal Arctic Theatre, 171;
parts taken by, 174, 214;
sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
sent to open communication with "Discovery," 247;
his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
second start for the "Discovery," 255;
sent to the "Discovery," 345.
Eider ducks, 131, 360.
Electricity, observations on, 180.
Ellesmere Land, 50.
Eskimo, Frederic, 29, 128;
Hans Hendrick, 39, 48, 354;
pilot, 42.
(_See_ Dogs.)
Eskimos, 33;
at Proven, 38;
Cape York, 48;
Etah, 52;
traces of, in Payer Harbour, 58;
in Twin-glacier Bay, 61, 62;
wanderings, 67, 69;
Admiral Sherard Osborn and Mr. Clements Markham on wanderings of, 68,
69;
remains on Capes Sabine, Hilgard, Louis Napoleon, Hayes, Fraser,
shores of Buchanan Strait, Radmore Harbour, and Bellot Isle, 69;
at Admiralty Inlet and Dundas Harbour, 68;
at Cape Beechey, 69, 347;
in Whale Sound, 359.
Etah, native village, 52, 69.
Eugénie, H.I.H. the Empress, present of woollen caps from, 7, 236, 239,
287;
visits the Arctic ships, 8.
Exercise during winter, 181, 187;
for sledging crews, 227, 228.
Falcon, 362.
Farewell banquets, 8;
to the expedition at Portsmouth, 9, 10, 11;
to the "Valorous," 35.
Farewell Cape, 19, 23, 69.
Feilden, Captain, naturalist, H.M.S. "Alert," ascends hill above
Bessels Bay, 101;
visits Distant Cape, 110;
his lecture on geology, 169;
picks up skulls in Rawlings Bay, 352.
(_See_ Naturalist.)
Ferbrache, Wm., sledge crew, N. division, symptoms of scurvy, 306.
Figure-heads of the Arctic ships, 4.
Finner whale, 20.
Fire, precautions against, fire-hole, 160, 161;
alarm of, 226.
Fishing on the Torske bank, 25.
Fiskernaes, expedition off, 24.
Fitting out the expedition, 1 to 8.
"Flo," Eskimo dog, met with adrift, near Cape Joseph Henry, 323.
Floes. (_See_ Ice.)
Floe-bergs, description of, 114;
"Alert" secured inside a fringe of, 122, 125;
split by intense cold, 211.
Floe-berg Beach, depôt at, 122, 124;
desolate scene at, 126;
view from, 127;
winter quarters at, 132.
Flowers. (_See_ Vegetation.)
Foot-ball on the ice, 77.
Foot-gear, while sledging, 260, 261, 268, 280.
Foraminifera brought up at the extreme north point, 309.
Fossils, collections in Bessels Bay, 102;
in the coal, 350.
Fossil plants, at Atanekerdluk, 37;
in the coal near Discovery Harbour, 350.
Foulke Port, 51, 56, 69, 330.
Foxes, traces of, 60, 107;
fox shot, 354.
Fox trap, 68.
Francombe, Reuben, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
Franklin Pierce Bay, 72.
Fraser, Cape, 55, 72;
Eskimo remains on, 68;
passed by the ships, 92;
meeting of the tides, 93;
rounded, going south, 353.
Frederick VII., Cape, ship in danger off, 114.
Frederic, 29, 128.
(_See_ Eskimo.)
Freezing, experiments in, 223.
Fresh meat, 186.
(_See_ musk-ox, hares, Brent geese.)
Frost-bites, danger of, 81;
Petersen frost-bitten in the autumn, 129;
danger of, in autumn travelling, 142;
many frost-bites in return autumn journey, 147;
Lieut. May's severe frost-bite, 148;
other frost-bites and amputations, 148;
sufferers during the winter, 198;
precautions against, 199, 208;
on the dog sledge, in journey to "Discovery," 249.
"Frost-bite Range," 148.
Frozen ocean, 200, 215;
depôts cannot be laid out on, 234, 244;
difficulty of travelling over, 242;
movements of, 242.
(_See_ Palæocrystic Sea, Sledgings.)
Fulmar petrels, 361.
Gales of wind in the Atlantic, 17, 18;
in Smith Sound, 59;
in Robeson Channel, 119;
at Floe Berg Beach, 124;
furious gale during autumn travelling, 133, 134;
in winter quarters, 205, 206;
while sledging, 282, 283, 285, 296, 297;
on the voyage home, 366, 367.
Geese. (_See_ Brent.)
Geology, lecture on, by Captain Feilden, 169.
Geological collections, 31, 102, 116, 350.
(_See_ Fossils.)
Geological formation, 64, 67, 68;
physical aspect of the coast lines, 99.
Ger-falcon, 362.
Giffard, Lieut. R.N., H.M.S. "Alert," magnetic observer, 154;
in charge of the printing, 164 (_n._), 169, 175, 215, 216;
lecture on magnetism by, 169;
parts taken by, in theatricals, 214.
Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, musicians on board ship of, 7.
Glaciers: of Jacobshavn, 32;
of the Waigat, 36;
of Omenak fiord, 38;
near Cape York, Petowik, 48;
Crystal Palace, 50;
my brother John's (of Kane), 52;
twin glaciers, 60, 61;
of Grinnell Land, 64, 73, 83;
in Bessels Bay, 99;
Tyndall, 359.
Glaucous gulls, 50.
Godhavn, arrival at, 26;
lovely weather at, 33;
hospitality of the people, 33, 363, 364.
Godthaab, expedition off, 24.
Good, Joseph, petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 168.
Gore, Wm., stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," song by, 216.
Grampus, 21.
Grand palæocrystic chorus, 216.
Greenland, streams of ice, sweep down east coast of, 23;
coast of, 25;
natives on east coast, 69;
insularity of, argument from tides, 92;
distant view from Floe-berg Beach, 128;
exploration of northern coast, 242, 346.
"Greenwich," observatory at winter quarters so called, 152.
Grinnell Land, description of, 67, 72;
coast line, 94.
Gulls, 50, 101, 332, 360.
Guy Fawkes' day celebrated, 179.
Hair frozen into solid masses, 209;
effect of sledge travelling on colour of, 334.
Hakluyt Island, 50.
Hall Basin, 100, 101.
Haloes, 200.
Hannah Island, ships anchored inside, 100;
visit to, 101.
Hans Egede, 24.
Hans Hendrik, Eskimo engaged at Proven, 39;
endeavour to engage his brother-in-law, 48;
seal shot by, 354.
Hares, traces of, 60, 107;
at "Alert's" winter quarters, 211;
traces of, on the Polar Sea, 296, 314;
left by Captain Nares for N. division, 321;
shot, going south, 345, 351.
Harmonium, obtained from the "Valorous," at church, 187.
Hartstene Bay, arrival at, 51.
Hawks, Cape, 83.
Hayes, Dr., 51, 52, 53, 72, 73, 85, 99, 360.
Hayes, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69;
ascent of, 90.
Hayes Sound, 60;
tides in, 62;
intended exploration, 330.
Henry Island of Hayes, not an island, 64.
"Hercules," H.M. sledge, Lieut. W. H. May, R.N., 137, 217.
Hilgard, Cape, Eskimo remains on, 69.
Hoskins, Commodore A. H., sledging flagstaff presented by, 307.
Housing for winter quarters, 154, 155, 156.
Hudson's Bay Company's Taboggans, suitable in soft snow, 281.
Hummocks, difficulty of marching over, on the Polar Sea, 278, 279, 281,
284, 301;
discoloured by mud, 301;
great barrier of, 303;
great size, 304, 305;
different colours of, 316.
Hunt, Wm., ward-room cook, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 214.
Hydrostatics, lecture on, by Lieut. May, 169.
Ice, first seen, 22;
stream of, near Cape Farewell, 23;
the middle pack, 44, 45;
dangers, 65, 66;
occupations when detained by, 66;
ships stopped by, 57, 65, 73, 82, 90, 95, 103, 110, 113, 121, 344;
amusements on the, 77;
dock cut in the, 86;
great height of, 89;
increasing thickness, 96;
extending across Hall Basin, 100;
pressure on Cape Frederick VII., 114;
of the Polar Ocean, 127, 147, 200;
the dangerous state of the, in autumn travelling, 141;
movement of, during winter, 184;
character of, in travelling over the Polar Ocean, 284, 291, 300;
symptoms of disruption, 315, 320;
state of, on the voyage southward, 344.
(_See_ Palæocrystic, Blasting, Floe-bergs, Hummocks.)
Ice navigation, most important maxim in, 45;
uncertainty of, 57, 64;
qualities required for, 82.
Icebergs first sighted, 22;
constantly seen, 23;
in Disco Bay, 32, 34;
danger from, in the Waigat, 38;
indicate shoal water, 60;
danger from, off Albert Head, 65;
ships endangered by, 91;
number decreasing, 96;
innumerable, 359.
Independence, Cape, of Kane, 98.
Insects collected, 351.
Isabella, Cape, 356, 357;
Captain Markham lands at, 56, 57, 95;
letters at, 358.
Itivdliarsuk glacier, 36.
Ivory gull, 46, 50, 101.
Jacobshavn, glacier of, 32.
John Barrow, Cape, 93.
Jolliffe, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," in N. division sledge
party, holds out to the end, 326 (_n._).
Joseph Henry, Cape, 127;
Aldrich starts for, in the autumn, 136;
depôt near, 147;
dog "Sallie" lost at, 190;
arrival of sledges at, 263;
floes off, 282;
encamped abreast of, 285;
description of, 285;
northern division of sledges reaches, 321;
last seen, 343.
Kane, Dr., his open polar sea, 72, 98, 360.
Kardluk Point, in the Waigat, 36.
Kayak, difficulty of using, 30;
adventure of Mr. Wootton, 30;
Eskimo pilot in, 43.
Kennedy Channel crossed, 103;
musk-oxen on east side of, 103.
"Kew," magnetic observatory at winter quarters so called, 154.
Kew Observatory, thermometer tested at, 223.
King ducks, 50, 332.
Knapsacks, sledging, contents, 235, 236.
Knots, seen and secured at Distant Cape, 110.
Lady Franklin Inlet, 103, 111.
Lafayette Bay (of Kane), 98, 99.
Lancaster Sound, geology, 67;
remains of Eskimo on shores of, 68;
"Alert" off mouth of, 360.
Lemmings, traces of, 107;
description, 115, 116;
eaten by "Nellie," 212;
traces away from the land, 278.
Letters at Cape Isabella, 358;
at Godhavn, 363;
at Littleton Island, 358, 362.
Lieber, Cape, 102.
Lievely, 26.
(_See_ Godhavn.)
Life-boat Cove, visit to, 53.
Light, lecture on, by Lieut. Parr, R.N., 169;
return of, 207, 225.
Lime-juice, regular daily issue of, 16;
impossibility of using, while in a frozen state, away sledging, 238;
taken on the sledges by Commander Markham and Lieut. Parr, 238;
served out to sledge crew by Commander Markham, 305;
useless unless the whole volume is thawed, 305;
its use in the treatment of scurvy, 329;
used on all sledge journeys when its use was possible, 330.
Lincoln Bay, 115;
coast between, and Cape Union, 121;
depôt, 117, 248.
_Little Vulgar Boy_, play acted by the officers, 214.
Littleton Island, visit of Captain Nares and Commander Markham to, 53,
55;
not visited, going south, 358;
mail at, 358, 362.
Looms (_see_ Birds), 40, 41.
Loom soup, 40.
Louis Napoleon, Cape, Eskimo remains at, 69;
passed by the ships, 90.
Lyngenmarkfjeld, in Disco, ascent of, 31.
M'Clintock, Admiral Sir Leopold, sledge of, the best, 281;
superintends outfit of expedition, 2;
his detention in the Melville Bay pack, 44;
sledge equipments superintended by, 231;
on the absurdity of taking frozen lime-juice on sledges, 238;
tea-leaves recommended by, 316.
Magnetic observations, 31;
while sledging, 73, 180, 305;
snow observatory for, 152, 153, 209.
Magnetism, lecture on, by Lieutenant Giffard, R.N., 169.
"Marco Polo," H.M. sledge, 137, 217, 259.
Marine shells found above sea-level, 116.
Markham, Commander Albert H., R.N., visit to Littleton Island, 53;
to Cape Isabella, 56;
to Hannah Island, 101;
to Distant Cape, 110;
starts on an autumn reconnaissance, 128;
starts on second autumn sledge journey, 133;
on main autumn sledge journey, 137, 144;
in charge of magnetic observations, 154;
lecture on astronomy, 169;
parts taken by, 174, 214;
followed by a wolf, 228;
takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
in command of the northern division of sledges, 242, 311;
attains the most northern point ever reached by man, 309, 311;
resolves to abandon large boat, 288, 289;
serves out lime-juice, 305.
Markham, Clements, on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
(_See_ Clements Markham.)
"Markham Hall," storehouse at winter quarters, 152;
demolition of, 210.
Maskell, William, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 169, 216;
parts taken by, 174;
sledge crew, N. division, holds out to the end, 317, 318 (_n._).
May, Lieutenant W. H., R.N., starts on autumn travelling, 137;
severely frost-bitten, 147;
suffers amputation, 148;
astronomical observer, 152;
his lecture on hydrostatics, 169;
manager of the theatre, 214;
glee sung by, 216;
sails his sledge, 231 (_n._);
comes to the rescue of the northern division, 325;
goes to succour Aldrich's party, 331, 332.
Medical staff, their tests of the physical capacity of the officers and
men, 15;
unremitting care of the sick, 333.
Medical inspections, 187, 204, 258, 326, 337.
Medical stores for sledges, 238 (_n._);
weight, 233.
Medical instructions to commanders of sledges, 238.
Melville Bay, 18, 44;
passage through, 44;
bear hunt in, 46.
Melville Island, remains of Eskimo at, 69;
musk-oxen at, 106.
Men of the expedition, selection of, 4;
tests of physical capacity, 15;
regular daily issue of lime-juice to, 16;
always reliable in an emergency, 125;
sufferings and excellent conduct in autumn travelling, 134, 145;
their good humour and wit, 146;
frost-bites and amputations, 148;
clothing during winter, 159, 160;
school for, in winter, 166, 167, 213;
theatricals, 171, 173;
Christmas cheer, 195;
fondness for dancing, 195, 197, 204;
excellent health, 204;
paleness on return of sun, 211;
heroic conduct while sledging, 277, 286, 287, 291, 302, 310, 311,
313, 316, 352.
Meteor, brilliant, seen at winter quarters, 201.
Meteorites at Ovifak, 31.
Meteorological observations, 162, 180, 183, 223.
Middle pack, Captain Nares's resolve to take the, 44.
Miocene Period, coal of, discovered, 347.
Mollies, 361.
Moon, 181.
(_See_ Paraselenæ.)
Moravian missionaries, 24.
Morton, Cape, 100, 102;
depôt of, 100.
Morton, Mr., his "open polar sea," 93;
description of Cape Constitution, accurate, 98;
unable to ascend cliff, 98.
Mosquitoes, plague in Greenland, 32.
Moss, Dr., surgeon, H.M.S. "Alert," reading by, 168;
lecture on mock moons under the microscope, 169;
makes a balloon on Guy Fawkes' day, 180;
paints scenery for theatre, 171;
succours the northern division, 326;
sketch for bill of fare by, 335;
paints the boats, 245.
Murchison Sound, 50.
Musical instruments, 7.
(_See_ Harmonium, Piano.)
Musicians in the ships of Sir H. Gilbert and John Davis, 7, 8.
Musk-oxen, traces of, 60, 61;
hunting, 104;
range of, 106;
traces in Discovery Harbour, 107;
beef presented by "Alert" to "Discovery," 108;
hunt in Shift-Rudder Bay, 113;
quantity of meat from, 186, 204;
meat nearly stolen by dogs, 207;
in the summer, 338.
Mustard and cress grown in the "Alert," 205, 211, 345.
Nares, Captain George S., R.N., resolves to take the middle pack, 44;
visits Life-boat Cove and Littleton Island, 53;
constant vigilance, 66;
visits Hannah Isle, 101;
ascends hill above Cape Morton, 102;
selects winter quarters for "Discovery," 107;
observes opening in the pack, 114;
catches a lemming, 115;
desirous of finding a more sheltered spot for winter quarters, 128,
135;
his account of sledge travelling, 140;
lecture on astronomy, 169;
gives name to the Palæocrystic Sea, 200;
excellent health and spirits of those under his command at the
commencement of the New Year, 204;
lecture on sledging experiences, 215;
arrangement for opening communication with "Discovery," 246;
unjust attack upon, regarding lime-juice, 237;
absurdity of the charge against him, 238;
his Union Jack taken with northern division, 258;
at Cape Joseph Henry Depôt, 321;
leaves hares for northern division, 321;
comes to the relief of the northern division, 325, 327;
decision to return home, 337, 346;
anxiety for safety of Beaumont, 349;
accepts offer of coal at Egedesminde, 363;
lands at Valentia, 367;
satisfaction of the Admiralty with his conduct of the Expedition, 368.
Narwhal hunting, 59.
Naturalist, zeal in a gale of wind, 19;
visit to Ovifak, 31;
finds Eskimo remains at Cape Beechey, 69;
ascends hill in Bessels Bay, 101;
at distant Cape, 110.
(_See_ Feilden, Captain.)
"Nellie," Commander Markham's black retriever, coveted by Eskimos at
Proven, 39;
dislike of Eskimo dogs, 78;
surprise at the tabogganing, 188;
stood the cold well, 188, 189;
adventure with, in the unifilar house, 209, 210;
eats the lemmings, 212;
followed by a wolf, 228.
Nelson, Lord, an old Arctic officer, 179.
New Year's day, 202, 203, 204.
Nip, preparations for, 65, 71, 83;
off Cape M'Clintock, 94;
south of Cape Beechey, 348.
(_See_ Ice.)
Norman-Lockyer Island, Eskimo remains on, 69, 74;
visited, 73.
North extreme, camp, 307, 308;
farthest point ever reached, 309, 311.
"North Water," of Baffin Bay, 47;
of Smith Sound, 72, 97.
Northumberland Island, 50.
Norton Shaw Cape, passed by the ships, 94.
Observations, scientific, in winter quarters, 180;
difficulties, 180;
while sledging, 305;
at farthest northern point, 307, 310.
(_See_ Magnetic, Meteorological, Astronomical.)
Observatories, wooden, for transit instrument, 152;
magnetic, 154;
dismantling of, 227.
Officers, selection, 4;
tests of physical capacity, 15;
amusements, 167;
lectures by, 169;
theatricals, 169, 173;
scientific observations, 180;
birthdays celebrated, 184;
Christmas, bill of fare for, 196;
approval of decision of Captain Nares to return, 337.
(_See_ under names.)
Omenak fiord, discharging glaciers in, 38.
Orchestra, Royal Arctic Theatre, 171.
Osborn, Rear-Admiral Sherard, C.B., dedication to, v.;
on Eskimo wanderings, 68.
Ovifak, visit of naturalist to, 31.
Pack. (_See_ Ice.)
Palæocrystic Sea, name given, 200, 234.
(_See_ Frozen Ocean.)
Palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel, 92, 114, 118.
Palæocrystic grand chorus, 216;
sung at the most northern position ever reached by man, 310.
"Pandora" brings letters to Cape Isabella, 358;
at Godhavn, 363;
sighted in the Atlantic, 366.
Paraselenæ, 181, 200.
Parr, Lieut. A. C. C., R.N., ascends the hill above Bessels Bay, 101;
starts on autumn travelling, 133, 137, 144;
sledge goes through the ice, 144;
in charge of astronomical observatory, 152;
lecture on light by, 169;
takes lime-juice on his sledge, 238;
an indefatigable road-maker, 286;
sent to the ship for help, 322, 325.
Parry, Sir Edward, his farthest northern point passed, 150;
his sense of the importance of exercising and improving the minds of
the men in winter quarters, 163, 166;
attempt to reach the pole, 243 (_n._).
Parry Islands, Eskimo remains on shores of, 68.
Payer Harbour, 58.
Pearce, Alfred, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216;
severely frost-bitten, 286;
attacked by scurvy, 289.
Pemmican, 237, 270.
Pendulum Islands, Eskimos met with near, 69.
Petermann fiord, 100;
fine view of, 103.
Petersen, Danish dog-driver, autumn travelling, 128, 129;
starts for "Discovery," 248;
frost-bitten, 248;
efforts to save his life, 248 to 254;
brought back to the ship, 254;
death of, 255, 321.
Petowick glacier, 48.
Photographing at Godhavn, 31.
Pinkey and Collins' patent topsails, 3.
Plants, 31, 57, 60, 74, 107.
(_See_ Vegetation.)
Plays. (_See_ Theatricals.)
Play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214.
Plymouth, visit from Commander-in-Chief, 11.
Polar Ocean, 122, 128, 215, 234, 242;
Parry's attempt to sledge over, 243 (_n._);
march of the northern division over, 276, 311 (_see_ Hummocks), 285,
301;
young ice, 296.
Polaris Bay, 100;
state of lime-juice found in, 305;
sledge-crew recruiting at, 346, 349.
"Polaris," visit to her second winter quarters, 53, 54;
her cruise, 72;
Dr. Bessels of, 92, 99;
land seen from, 101;
musk-ox shot by crew of, 106;
Eskimo kind to crew of, 360.
Polarization of light, observations, 180.
"Poppie," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Giffard, 217, 259.
Poppies, 57, 74.
Popular entertainments in winter quarters, 168, 169;
programmes, 175, 176.
Portsmouth Dockyard, ships fitting out at, 1;
harbour, departure of expedition from, 9, 10;
return to, 368.
Potentillas, 340.
Prayers, 187.
(_See_ Divine service.)
Presents to the expedition, 6, 7, 193, 194.
President Land has no existence, 101.
Prince Patrick Island, heavy pack on west coast of, 200.
Prince Regent Inlet, formation of cliffs, 64, 67.
Printing office in winter quarters, 164, 165;
prospectus, 164;
bills of fare, 185.
Prologue, Royal Arctic Theatre, 172, 173.
Protococcus nivalis, 48.
Proven, arrival at, 38;
survey of, 39.
Provisions for sledging, weight, 233;
scale, 237.
Ptarmigan, 225.
Pullen, Rev. W. H., chaplain, H.M.S. "Alert," glees by, 216;
lecture on Arctic plants, 169;
author of the prologue, 171, 172, 176;
leads the choir, 187;
Christmas bill of fare by, 196;
lines on the New Year by, 202;
a burlesque operetta written by, 214;
grand chorus composed by, 216;
service on departure of sledges, 258, 259;
lines welcoming return of sledges by, 336.
Queenstown, rendezvous at, 367.
Radmore, John, chief carpenter's mate, H.M.S. "Alert," sledge crew in
northern division, holds out against scurvy, 318;
to the last, 326 (_n._).
Radmore Harbour, Eskimo's remains at, 69.
Rainbow, 325.
Rawlings, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," captain of sledge,
northern division, attacked by scurvy, 306.
Rawlings Bay, 352.
Rawson, Lieutenant Wyatt, R.N., joins the "Alert" from the "Discovery,"
108;
visits Distant Cape, 110;
glees by, 169;
parts taken in theatricals by, 174, 214;
skill in tabogganing, 187;
visit to snow hut built by, 212;
accompanies Egerton on journey to "Discovery," 247;
his efforts to save Petersen, 249 to 254;
arrives from "Discovery," 346.
Rawson Cape, 219, 343.
Records left at Cape Isabella, 57;
in cairn on Hannah Island, 101;
at extreme northern point, 312;
at Cairn Point (winter quarters), 341.
Reindeer, Port Foulke, 52;
traces, 60;
scarce near Egedesminde, 365.
Retrospect on New Year's day, 197.
Reward for crossing 83rd parallel, 292 (_n._).
Richardson Bay, 99.
Right whales, 21.
Rink, Dr., on the Eskimo, 33.
Ritenbenk, expedition at, 34.
Road-making on the ice, 273, 275, 277, 279, 286, 292, 294.
Robeson Channel, 69;
view of, 110;
position on American chart not to be recognized, 115;
palæocrystic floes of, 118;
examination of fiords, 242.
Rorqual whale, 21.
Ross, Sir John, Arctic highlanders of, 48;
red snow, 48.
Rotges, or little auks, 46, 50, 360.
Royal Arctic Theatre, 169, 170;
prologue, 172;
plays, 173, 214.
Rudder, arrangement for unshipping, 3;
head damaged, 67;
unshipped for a nip, 83;
seriously injured, 113;
shifted, 113;
frequent necessity for unshipping, 344;
head badly wrenched, 344, 351.
Sabine, Cape, 55, 57, 59;
Eskimo remains on, 69;
passed, going south, 356.
Sails for sledges, 231 (_n._).
"Sallie" suspected of robbing Rawson's depôt, 213.
(_See_ Dogs.)
Salt beef, character of, 154.
"Sanderson, his hope," shooting looms at, 40.
Sanitary condition of the men in winter quarters, 187.
Saxifrage, 57, 74, 340.
Scenery of Greenland, 24;
from Disco, 31;
in Disco Bay, 35;
in the Waigat, 36;
near Cape York, 48, 50;
of the glaciers, 60;
off Cape Hawks, 83;
at winter quarters, 126;
at the extreme northern point, 310, 311.
School in winter quarters, 165, 166;
last assemblage of, 213.
Scientific observations in winter quarters, 180.
Scoresby on the size of the rorqual, 21.
Scoresby Bay, 94.
Scurvy, 237;
premonitory symptoms, 284, 285;
dread of, 299;
increasing symptoms, 303, 304, 305, 313;
decrease of appetite, 314;
extreme weakness, 317;
outbreak on board the "Alert," 321;
true causes of the outbreak, 329, 330;
cure of patients, 333, 339, 345;
patients convalescent, 365;
outbreak in sledge crews of "Discovery," 346.
Seals basking on the ice, 24, 45;
shot by Hans, 354.
Selection of officers and men for Arctic service, 4.
Self, James, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 216.
Shells, marine, found above sea-level, 116.
Shift-Rudder Bay, 114.
Shirley, John, stoker, H.M.S. "Alert," songs by, 168;
attacked by scurvy, 282;
on the sledge, 284.
Shooting parties in summer, 338 to 340.
Sick. (_See_ Scurvy.)
Simpson, Thos., H.M.S. "Alert," in sledge crew, northern division,
attacked by scurvy, 306.
Skating, 77, 110.
Sky, beauty of, 83.
(_See_ Meteor, Sun.)
Sledges, description of, 231 (_n._);
sails for, 231 (_n._);
weight, 233;
boats on, 242 (_n._);
required for northern division, 244;
dog sledge sent to "Discovery," 247;
departure of sledges in the spring, 257, 258;
sledge standards, 258;
art of packing, 277;
high-runner sledges the best, 281;
(_See_ Dogs, Marco Polo, Hercules, Victoria, Bloodhound, Bulldog,
Alexandra, Challenger, Poppie, Clements Markham.)
Sledge crews, exercise of, 227.
Sledging, first lessons in 58;
with dogs, 79, 80, 81, 128;
first experiences, 129;
severe work, 133;
details of, 137;
shore-going notions of, 138;
realities, 139;
lecture on, by Captain Nares, 215;
grand palæocrystic chorus, 216;
preparations for, during the winter, 230;
equipments superintended by Sir Leopold M'Clintock, 231;
weights, 233;
auxiliaries and depôts, 234;
tents, 235;
cooking apparatus, 235;
contents of knapsack and storebag, 237;
scale of provisions, 237;
medical stores, 238 (_n._);
clothing, 239, 240;
programme of sledding, operations, 241;
the first encampment, 260;
intense cold, 259, 262;
arrival at autumn depôt, 263;
daily routine, 264 to 270;
road-making, 273, 275, 276;
increasing difficulties, 304;
method of advancing, 295, 304, 306, 313;
most northern encampment, 307;
extreme northern point, 309 to 311;
return journey of northern division begun, 312;
northern division reaches land, 321;
return of northern division, 327;
western division, 331, 332;
eastern division, 350.
(_See_ Autumn, Hummocks, Temperature, Foot-gear, Cook.)
Sleeping-bags, 139, 235, 240;
weight of, 233;
frozen hard, 280, 283, 287.
Smith, Mr. Krarup, Inspector of North Greenland, his hospitality, 26,
29, 363.
Smith Sound, 47, 49, 69.
Snow, crimson, 48;
heavy falls in Smith Sound, 71, 73, 95;
in Robeson Channel, 111, 119, 121;
heavy falls during autumn travelling, 147;
buildings with, 152, 153, 154;
temperature at different depths, 162;
heavy drifts during winter, 205;
drifts while sledge travelling, 261, 287, 306.
Snow blindness, precautions against, 240;
use of goggles, 286, 303.
Snow bunting seen by sledge crews, 319.
Snow hut built by Rawson, 212.
Sorrel, 345.
Soundings at extreme northern point, 308, 309.
Southsea Common, farewell to the expedition from, 9, 10.
Specific gravity observations, 180.
Spectrum analysis observations, 180.
Standards for sledges, 258.
Stanton, Cape, in sight, 103.
Steam, lecture on by Mr. Wootton, 169.
Stone, Geo., of the "Discovery," serving on board the "Alert," songs
by, 174.
Store-bag, sledging contents, 237.
Stoves, 158.
Stuckberry, Thos., petty officer, H.M.S. "Alert," parts and songs by,
173, 216.
Summer, 337, 339.
Sumner, Cape, in sight, 103.
Sun, sets at midnight, 127;
final disappearance, 141;
last view of, 148, 150;
date of final departure, 151, 178;
longing for the return of, 207;
return of, 219, 220, 221, 222;
effect of, on the ice, 207, 313.
Sylvester heating apparatus not supplied, 158.
Symons, Robert, A.B., H.M.S. "Alert," printer, 164 (_n._), 169, 175,
216;
songs by, 214.
Tabogganing, 187.
Taboggans, Hudson's Bay Company's sledges, suitable for soft snow, 281.
Temperature, observations for, 162;
variations during winter, 183;
extreme cold, 223, 224;
while sledging, 259, 262, 278, 283, 286, 290, 294, 295, 302, 313,
314, 320.
Tents, 139;
weight, 233;
description of, 235, 260.
Terns, 110, 332.
Tests of physical capacity, 15.
Theatricals, dresses, 171;
orchestra, 171;
prologue, 172;
play-bills, 173, 175, 176, 214;
plays, 173, 214.
Thermometers tested, 224.
Thermometrical observations, 162, 223.
(_See_ Temperature.)
"Thursday pops," 168, 169, 175, 176, 215.
Tidal observations at Twin Glacier Bay, 62;
in winter quarters, 161, 180.
Tides, meeting of, at Cape Fraser, 92;
in Polar Sea, 304, 309.
"Tigress," at Life-boat Cove, 53.
Torske bank, fishing on, 25.
Trafalgar day celebrated, 179.
Turnstones, 360.
Twin Glacier Bay, 61.
Tyndall Glacier, 359.
"Unies." (_See_ Narwhals.)
Unifilar House, 209.
Union, Cape, 101, 103, 118;
rounded, 121, 122;
pressure on, 125, 343.
Union Jack of Captain Nares, taken with the northern division, 258;
planted at the most northern point, 309.
Upernivik, 41, 42, 43, 358.
Valentia, "Alert" at, 367.
"Valorous," H.M.S., to take out stores to Disco, 6;
joins the Arctic ships, 11;
to make the best of her way to Disco, 14;
at Disco, 28;
kindness of captain and officers, 33;
farewell to, 35;
lost sight of, 37;
jolly-boat landed at Dobbin Bay, 84;
harmonium obtained from, 187.
Vegetation at Godhavn, 31;
at Cape Isabella, 57;
at Twin Glacier Bay, 60;
at Norman Lockyer Island, 74;
in Discovery Harbour, 107;
lecture on Arctic plants by Mr. Pullen, 169;
of the Arctic summer, 340.
Ventilation during winter, 158;
drip, 182.
"Victoria," H.M. sledge, Lieut. Parr, R.N., 137, 217, 259;
goes through the ice, 144.
Victoria Head, 67.
Von Buch, Cape, 93.
Waigat, scenery of, 36;
danger from fogs and icebergs, 37;
steam out of, 38.
Wales, H.R.H. the Prince of, visit to Arctic ships, 8.
Wales, Prince of, Mountains, 50.
Walrus seen on the ice, 45, 74;
hunts, 74, 75, 76.
Walter Bathurst Cape, 360.
Warming apparatus not supplied, 157.
Warming arrangements during winter, 157, 158.
Washington Irving Island, ancient cairns on, 85.
Weights for sledging, 232;
to be dragged by each man, 233;
in Parry's expedition, 243 (_n._).
Welcome of sledge travellers to ship, 335, 336;
of the expedition, on return to England, 368.
Whales, 20, 21. (_See_ Cetaceans.)
Whale Sound, 49, 359.
White, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," lecture on history by, 169;
part taken by, at the theatricals, 174;
improvement of sledge-cooking apparatus by, 236.
Willow, 74.
Wind. (_See_ Gales.)
Winter, approach of, 126.
Winter quarters, precarious nature of at Floe-berg Beach, 126, 132;
preparations for, 151 to 254;
routine, 160.
(_See_ Ventilation, Warming, Housing, Clothing, Fire-hole, Amusements.)
Wolf, appearance of a, 228, 229.
Wolves, traces of, 60, 107, 321;
alarm of, 199.
Woman Islands, 41.
Wood, Sergeant, H.M.S., "Alert," recitation and song by, 216.
Woolley, Wm., H.M.S., "Alert," parts and songs by, 173.
"Woolwich," snow powder storehouse at winter quarters so called, 154;
dismantling of, 227.
Wootton, Mr., engineer, H.M.S. "Alert," adventure in a kayak, 30;
his lecture on steam, 169, 175;
glee sung by, 216.
York, Cape, 47, 49.
Young, Sir Allen, gratitude to, for bringing out letters, 358, 362.
THE END.
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, LONDON AND BECCLES.
End of Project Gutenberg's The Great Frozen Sea, by Albert Hastings Markham