On the following morning Petersen appeared to be slightly better, so

thinking it was preferable to run the risk of taking him back as he was,

than to pass such another night as the last, they put him on the sledge,

and, having hurriedly eaten their breakfast, they started for the ship

with all despatch. They had a rough journey before them of eighteen

miles; but they knew it was a case of life and death, and they

encouraged the dogs to their utmost speed. The dogs, being homeward

bound, were willing enough and needed little persuasion, so that, for a

time, they rattled along at a good pace. But actual progress could not

have been very rapid, for we read in Egerton's report that the patient's

"circulation was so feeble that his face and hands were constantly

frost-bitten, entailing frequent stoppages whilst we endeavoured to

restore the affected parts." The difficulties of the homeward journey

may be gathered from the following extracts: "On arriving at the Black

Cape we had to take the patient off the sledge, and while one assisted

him round, the other kept the dogs back, for by this time they knew they

were homeward bound, and required no small amount of trouble to hold in.

After getting the sledge round and restoring Petersen's hands and nose

(which were almost as bad again a few minutes after), and securing him

on the sledge, we again set off. At the next cape the same difficulties

were experienced, in fact rather more, for the sledge took charge down a

'ditch,'[1] about twenty-five feet deep, turning right over three times

in its descent, and out of which we had to drag it, and while clearing

harness (which employed us both, one to stand in front of the dogs with

the whip, while the other cleared the lines), the dogs made a sudden

bolt past Lieutenant Rawson, who was in front with the whip, and dragged

me more than a hundred yards before we could stop them. At length, after

the usual process with Petersen (that of thawing his hands and nose,

which we did every time we cleared harness, or it was actually necessary

to stop), we got away, thankful that our troubles were over. The dogs

got their harness into a dreadful entanglement in their excitement to

get home; but we were afraid to clear them lest they should break away

from us, or cause us any delay, as we were both naturally anxious to

return with the utmost speed to the ship, and so relieve ourselves of

the serious responsibility occasioned by the very precarious state in

which our patient was lying. Upon arriving alongside at 6.30 P.M., we

were very thankful that Petersen was able to answer us when we informed

him he was at home."

Poor fellow! it was the last home he ever reached alive, for in two

short months his remains were carried from the ship and laid in their

last resting-place in this world, on the summit of a low hill

overlooking the scene of his last sledge journey! In conclusion, Egerton

says, "I regret exceedingly that I have been compelled to return to the

ship without having accomplished my journey to H.M.S. 'Discovery;' but I

trust that what I have done will meet with your approval, and that the

course I adopted may be the means of having lessened the very serious

and distressing condition of Petersen." Gallant fellow! of course his

doings meet not only with the approval but the admiration of all

Englishmen who take pride in the noble and heroic deeds of their

countrymen. The work of these two brave young officers on this occasion

stands out conspicuously amongst the many deeds of daring and devotion

with which the annals of Arctic adventure abound.

It must be remembered that during the time they were away the sun had

only just made its reappearance, and was therefore at a very low

altitude, so that little benefit could be derived from its rays; and it

only afforded sufficient light to enable the travellers to keep on the

march for about eight or nine hours a day.[2] On the 20th of March, five

days after the return from their calamitous journey, the same two

officers made another and a more successful start. On this occasion they

were accompanied by a couple of sailors, and their sledge was dragged by

a team of seven dogs. In five days, after a severe and toilsome journey,

rendered doubly so by the extreme cold and the heavy nature of the road

over which they had to travel, they reached the "Discovery," conveying

to her officers and crew the pleasing intelligence of our safety, and

receiving in return an account of the happy winter passed by them.

Poor Petersen never recovered from the effects of this journey. He

rallied a little after he arrived on board, and was placed under the

tender and skilful treatment of Dr. Colan, who for some time held out

slight hopes of his recovery; but the injuries he had received were of

too serious a nature to admit of much hope, and he gradually sank until

he expired peacefully on the 14th of May. Perhaps it was better that it

should be so, for the poor fellow would not only have been disfigured by

losing portions of his nose and ears, but he would also have been a

cripple, for the doctor had been compelled to amputate both his feet in

order to stop the mortification from extending. These frost-bites are

indeed very dreadful, and must always be quickly taken in hand so as to

avoid any serious result.

So cold were the frozen limbs of poor Petersen, that his companions said

it was like touching cold steel, and produced frost-bite almost as

rapidly as if they were really touching a piece of metal!

Although this chapter is rather a mournful one, and has a very

melancholy termination, I make no apology for having devoted it entirely

to our first sledging expedition of the season, believing that my

readers will feel both pride and pleasure in hearing of the noble

conduct of my two messmates.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] By a "ditch" is meant a hollow formed between a high snow-drift

and a hummock or any projection. Some of these ditches were very

steep and precipitous.

[2] In previous expeditions parties have left their ships in March;

but the March of 75° N. is very different from the March of 82° N. In

the former position the sun has been many days longer above the

horizon than in 82° N.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE ROUTINE OF SLEDGE TRAVELLING.

"We are well persuaded

We carry not a heart with us from hence

That grows not in a fair consent with ours;

Nor leave not one behind, that doth not wish

Success and conquest to attend on us."

_Henry V._

On the morning of Monday, the 3rd of April, an unwonted bustle and

excitement on board and around the "Alert" betokened that something

unusual was taking place. Men in their travelling costumes might have

been observed busily engaged in adding the last finishing touches to the

already well-packed sledges. Officers, also in travelling attire, were

carefully conveying delicate instruments from the ship to the row of

sledges drawn up in "line of battle" on the floe, whilst the white

ensign flying from the peak bore witness of some important event.

The day was indeed one of memorable import, for it was the one that we

had all, during the long dark winter, looked forward to as that on which

our real work was to commence. It was the day on which we were to start

forth with the object of achieving all that was possible with the means

at our disposal, in the great and glorious work of increasing the stock

of geographical knowledge respecting the Polar regions. No wonder,

then, that the scene of our winter quarters presented an animated and

unwonted appearance on that bright but intensely cold morning.

The sledges, seven in number, on two of which were placed the boats to

accompany the northern division, were drawn up in single line, one

before the other, according to the seniority of their respective

leaders. They were all fully equipped and provisioned, and were "manned"

by a force of fifty-three officers and men; a chosen band, eager to

emulate the deeds of their predecessors, and willing to risk their lives

in bringing to a successful issue the task they had resolved to

accomplish.

A strict medical examination had been held a day or two previously, and

the rather unnecessary question, "Do you feel yourself fit and able in

every way to go sledging?" was put to all. It is needless to record the

answer!

On the previous day, being Sunday, Pullen preached a capital sermon,

drawing comparisons between the undertaking in which we were about to

engage, and the march of the Israelites to the Promised Land. The hymn

"for those at sea" was sung and the Holy Communion celebrated, at which

latter service there was an exceptionally good attendance, the number of

communicants amongst the men having largely increased.

From each sledge flew the bright colours of its commander's standard: a

swallow-tailed flag bearing the armorial colours, and emblazoned with

the crest of its owner, each charged with the red cross of St. George.

In addition, the two boats displayed from their mast-heads Captain

Nares's Union Jack and a white ensign. Worked by the fair hands of some

loved and cherished one at home, these standards, as they fluttered out

bravely before a gentle breeze, kindled our enthusiasm, whilst they

materially added to the spirit and gaiety of the scene.

The sledges were arranged in the following order:--"Marco Polo" (with a

boat), "Challenger," "Victoria" (with a boat), "Poppie," "Bulldog,"

"Alexandra," and "Bloodhound;" the latter was only a small sledge party

ordered to accompany us for three or four days, then supply us with

three days' provisions, and return to the ship to report our progress.

At eleven o'clock, everything being in readiness for a start, all hands

assembled on the floe, and prayers were read by Pullen. The hymn, "God,

from whom all blessings flow," was then sung, after which the order was

given to "fall in," and, amidst the hearty cheers of those few who were

left behind, the sledging parties moved off. The captain and officers

accompanied us for a short distance, when, wishing us Godspeed, they

turned to go back. This was a signal for three cheers from the

travellers, after which they settled down to their work, and the march

was steadily commenced.

The first day's march was necessarily a short one. It was to many their

introduction to the "drag-ropes," and symptoms of fatigue were soon

detected, caused by the energetic exertions of the inexperienced, who,

unlike the veterans of the previous autumn, overtaxed their strength in

their ardour to perform a good day's work.

The temperature at starting was 33° below zero, and at this it remained

steady the whole day, rendering the task of writing up our journals when

we halted extremely unpleasant and painful.

The scene of our first encampment was an animated and picturesque one.

We had marched about six miles from the ship, and the site selected was

at the base of a low brow, forming a connection or isthmus between a

long projecting tongue and the mainland. Here we pitched our seven

tents, from each of which the smoke from the cooking utensils issued,

ascending in spiral columns until lost amidst the clouds. In our rear

were the snow-clad hills, whilst in front was the illimitable frozen

sea. Men hurried about in the execution of various duties incidental to

"pitching for the night," such as the issuing of provisions by the

several sledge-captains, the banking up with snow of the exterior of the

tents, the re-packing of the sledges, or the careful covering up of the

lading so as to ensure its protection from snow-drift; all of which

duties must be sedulously carried out before rest and repose can be

sought in the sleeping-bags. A pleasing aroma of cooking tea was mixed

with the fragrance of stewed pemmican, and made us smack our lips in

anticipation of the meal that was preparing.

Not the least hard part of a day's work is that of camping after a

toilsome and weary journey, especially when the temperature is low and a

cold sleepless night anticipated; but when the weather is warm enough to

obtain a good night's rest, the order to halt is always received with

very great satisfaction, more especially when a good day's work has been

accomplished, with the prospect of fair travelling on the morrow.

As soon as the tents are ready for the reception of the men, they enter

one by one, take off their "overalls" for which their duffel coats are

substituted, change their foot gear and get into their sleeping-bags.

This change of foot gear in the morning and evening is the whole extent

of the toilet performed by the sledgers until their return to the ship!

The following morning we were under weigh pretty early, having spent a

cold wretched night, only too glad to be up and doing something, the

temperature inside our tent, with all the men in their bags, being as

low as 15° below zero. The experience gained during the autumn had a

very salutary effect on the travellers, the apprehension even of

frost-bite being in itself sufficient to banish all idea of sleep.

The operation of dressing and undressing, although it is entirely

limited to the clothing of the feet, is without doubt one of the most

disagreeable duties connected with sledge travelling. Our hose and

blanket-wrappers, although they were invariably kept _inside_ our

sleeping-bags during the night, were frozen so hard in the morning that

they were with the greatest difficulty folded over our feet. Sometimes

the wrappers were tied round the knees at night-time to protect them

from the cold, for that part of our body seemed more sensitive to the

temperature than any other.

Not the least trying part of our toilet was lacing and tying the stiffly

frozen strings of our equally hard moccasins with fingers either aching

from cold or devoid of all sensation. Not only was this a very painful

operation, but it was one that sorely taxed and ruffled the equanimity

of our tempers.

The snow over which we travelled was very soft and, unfortunately for

us, was also very deep, making the dragging with our heavily laden

sledges most laborious, in fact so much so that we were frequently

compelled to resort to "double banking;" that is to say, the two crews

would be employed in first dragging on one sledge and then return to

advance the other. This, of course, made our progress very slow. After

the long confinement of the men during the darkness of the winter, they

were, in spite of the careful attention that had been paid to daily

exercise, hardly in what might be called first-rate condition, so that

fatigue for the first few days was felt by the majority, and not wishing

to impose too much on their zealous desire to push on, short journeys

were in consequence performed.

On the second day out, the temperature fell to 45° below zero, or 77°

below freezing point. The cold then was so intense as to deprive us of

sleep, the temperature _inside_ the tent being as low as -25°, the whole

period of rest being occupied in attempting to keep the blood in

circulation. Several frost-bites were sustained, but they were all

attended to in time, and resulted in nothing worse than severe and very

uncomfortable blisters.

So hard were our tent robes and sleeping-bags frozen that they resembled

sheet-iron, and care had to be taken to prevent them from coming into

contact with the face, for an abrasion of the skin would undoubtedly

follow!

Our curry paste, a small quantity of which we used to mix with our

pemmican to make it more palateable, looked, as the cook of the day

observed, exactly like a piece of brass, and was equally hard. Cramp in

the legs was complained of by many during the first few nights, but

gradually wore off, having in all probability been induced by the severe

and unaccustomed exercise. Thirst was also a subject of complaint, and

this, except at meal times, it was impossible to alleviate; for

although each man was supplied with a tin water-bottle covered with

duffel, the water could not be prevented from freezing, in spite of the

bottles being kept inside the waistbands of the men's trousers. The

practice of quenching thirst by putting snow or ice into the mouth is a

very dangerous one and was never permitted.

On the fourth day out we parted with our little sledge, the

"Bloodhound," which, having fulfilled its mission, returned to the ship,

taking back one of our party, who appeared unable to stand the fatigues

of sledging, and leaving one of their crew to fill his vacancy. We were

thus able to send back intelligence of our progress so far, and to

report the health of the men to be satisfactory, and that all were in

capital spirits. On the 10th of April the six sledges in company arrived

at the depôt of provisions established near Cape Joseph Henry during the

autumn, and found it undisturbed. The remainder of that day was employed

in bringing the provisions off to the sledges, which were left on the

ice, and in distributing them. The next morning was thick and foggy, the

atmosphere being rendered doubly obscure by a heavy fall of snow.

"The cold, uncomfortable daylight dawned,

And the white tents, topping a low ground fog,

Show'd like a fleet becalmed."

On this day the supporting sledges "Bulldog" and "Alexandra," having

performed the duties allotted to them, bade farewell to their companions

and returned to their ship. The two extended parties advanced on their

solitary missions; the northern division leaving the land and pushing

straight out on the rugged polar pack, whilst the western party

continued the exploration of the coast to the westward.

It was a strange farewell that was taken on that cold dull day on the

inhospitable ice-floe, amidst bristling hummocks and heaped up

snow-drifts, as the several parties pursued their different courses, one

returning to their Arctic home, the others to unknown difficulties, but

to hoped-for discoveries.

Brief was the parting, but sincere were the wishes for each other's

success. Hearty British cheers resounded in that icy wilderness,

hitherto undisturbed by the presence of mortal man, as we bade adieu to

our fellow-travellers, the echoes from which had scarce died away before

their forms vanished from our view in the thick driving snow that

shrouded in obscurity the surrounding objects.

It was, however, no time for reflection; for now all our energies, both

mental and physical, had to be devoted to the furtherance of the great

work with which we were entrusted. The men resolutely seized their

drag-ropes, and with light and willing hearts commenced their toilsome

advance.

In order to enable my readers to follow us during the time we were

engaged in the sledging operations, I will endeavour to explain, as

briefly as possible, the ordinary daily routine invariably carried out

by those so employed belonging to the "Alert."

The cook for the day is an important personage, and his duties, as I

have before related, are of a very onerous and trying description. Each

individual composing the sledge crew has to perform this office in turn

during twenty-four hours, and it is one that sorely taxes his patience

and powers of endurance, especially in very cold weather. He gladly

transfers his functions as cook to his successor, happy in the

assurance that his "turn" will not come round for another week, unless

sickness or any other unforeseen event should prostrate any of his

comrades.

The cook's work commences at an early hour, when, after having lighted

his lamp and converted sufficient ice or snow into water for the morning

meal, he reenters the tent, and walking unconcernedly on the sleeping

forms of his companions, proceeds deliberately to brush from the top and

sides of the tent the condensed moisture that has been accumulating

during the night, and which falls in minute frozen particles on the

coverlet. This operation being concluded, to the no small relief of

those over whom he has been walking, the coverlet is removed, well

brushed, shaken, folded up, and placed on the sledge. He then busies

himself with the important preparations for breakfast. In about two

hours from the time that the cook is called, the cocoa is reported

ready, when the rest of the party are awakened.

If the weather is very cold, breakfast is discussed in our bags, in

which we all sit up; a comical-looking lot in our grey skull-caps and

duffel coats! The biscuit bag is then laid in the centre of the tent,

spoons are produced, and the pannikins, each containing one pint of warm

cocoa, are handed in. The only articles that were not considered as

common property amongst us were our spoons. These were slightly larger

than an ordinary table-spoon, were made of horn, and supplied to each

sledger by a beneficent Government. We generally carried them slung

round our necks by laniards, or in our pockets.

The pannikins being emptied they are returned to the cook, who has in

the mean time been preparing the pemmican. So hard is this article

frozen that the portions for use have to be chipped off with a chopper

before they can be put into the stew-pan.

While the cook's anxiety is momentarily increased by the fear that his

fuel will be consumed before the repast is prepared, and his fingers are

alternately burnt and frost-bitten in his endeavours to trim and adjust

the lamp, prayers are read to those inside, the foot gear is changed and

the sleeping-bags rolled up. By the time this has been done, the

pemmican is ready, passed in, and eaten. Orders are then given to strike

tent, pack sledge, and prepare to march.

The great secret in packing a sledge properly is to have the weights as

nearly as possible in the centre--as far from the extremes as it is

possible to get them, so that the sledge may rise easily over obstacles.

When all is ready, the drag-ropes are manned, and with a "one, two,

three, haul," and a good pull altogether, the sledge is started and the

march commenced.

Care should be taken to scrape the pannikins out with a knife, before

the refuse inside has time to freeze, otherwise it will be difficult to

remove. Water for washing purposes, of any description, whilst sledging

is quite out of the question. After marching for about five or six

hours, a halt is called for lunch. This meal consists of four ounces of

bacon, a little biscuit, and a warm pannikin of tea to each man.

Although the most refreshing and enjoyable of all our meals, luncheon

was, when there was much wind, or the weather intensely cold, a very

trying one. The halt is of necessity long. Frequently an hour or an hour

and a half elapses before the tea is reported ready, during which time

the men are compelled to keep constantly on the move to avoid

frost-bites. When there is much wind the tent is pitched; but this adds

little to our comfort, for it is too cold to remain inside for any

length of time. If we were not all suffering from the same cause, we

should be disposed to laugh at the strange antics of our companions in

their efforts to keep their feet from getting frost-bitten. One man is

"marking time" at the double; another jumping up and down in a frantic

manner; another is sitting down cross-legged like a Turk, or a tailor,

and is occupied in belabouring his feet with his mittened hands, in his

energetic endeavours to restore circulation; whilst another, unable any

longer to endure the cold, commences furiously to kick the sledge, or a

hummock, with both feet like one bereft of his senses. Although halted,

little rest is enjoyed; anxiously is the kettle watched, and many are

the tender inquiries concerning the state of the water inside. "Does it

boil?" is a question frequently asked, and unless the cook is blessed

with an amiable disposition, the perversity of the kettle is sufficient,

at times, to drive him almost distracted. The old saw, "A watched pot

never boils," is fully exemplified. At length, to the relief and delight

of all, the announcement is made that the tea is ready, when all

troubles are forgotten in the pleasure and enjoyment of a warm pannikin

of tea. Sometimes little difficulties would arise in consequence of the

haste with which it was necessary to prepare and discuss this meal.

These, although serious at the time, served afterwards to amuse, and

were soon forgotten. On one occasion, the water having been boiled, and

the cook having, as he thought, carefully added the tea and sugar, which

were as carefully stirred up, the allowance of tea was served out and

eagerly drunk by the wearied sledgers, who were only too glad and

thankful to receive anything warm. It was not until some time after the

allowance had been consumed that the cook discovered he had omitted to

put in the _tea_, and had served out simply a decoction of warm water

and brown sugar! Sometimes the tea was made from salt-water ice, the

cook having inadvertently mixed it before tasting the water! In such a

case we had either to drink it, or get none at all!

Our bacon was, as a rule, frozen so hard as to be like a piece of

granite, and it was only by thawing it in our warm tea that it became

eatable. This had the effect of converting our tea into a sort of soup!

The time of halting for the night varied considerably; but it was

generally after ten, eleven, and sometimes twelve hours' steady

marching. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable site as

level as possible and where the snow is not too deep, for pitching the

tent, which should be carefully banked up outside with snow to the

height of two or three feet. Every one assists in this work except the

cook, who is busily engaged in the necessary preparations for the

evening meal. As soon as the tent is ready, the men enter, change their

foot gear, and struggle into their half-frozen bags, their toes and feet

having previously been examined by the officer for the detection of

frost-bites. If a frost-bite is discovered, circulation is immediately

restored, and the injured part dressed by the application of a little

glycerine ointment and some lint.

As a rule the moccasins, hose, and blanket wrappers are so firmly frozen

together that they are with difficulty separated, and are taken off the

feet as _one_ article of clothing. It is amusing to witness the frantic

exertions made by some of the men in their efforts to struggle into

their duffel coats. They are frozen so stiff and hard that this

operation is always an intensely aggravating one, and even when it is

accomplished, the men are utterly helpless until the warmth from their

bodies has partially thawed the coats and rendered them supple. They

were, with a very great deal of truth, likened to "strait-jackets."

[Illustration: GETTING READY TO "BAG."]

By the time that the whole party are comfortably settled in their bags,

supper, consisting of tea and pemmican, is ready and served; after which

pipes are lighted, conversation ensues, and the allowance of grog is

served out. This is undoubtedly the most delightful and happiest part of

the day's proceedings, and I should deprecate very strongly any attempts

to deprive the poor Arctic sledger of his small modicum of rum and

water, provided it was always issued at the same time as ours, and

_never_ during the fatigue and exertions of the day. The quantity is so

small that the most fanatical theorist cannot seriously maintain that it

can do harm. But experience proves that it tends very materially to

cheer and invigorate the men during the short time that they can really

call their own in the whole twenty-four hours, and it certainly imparts

a glow which induces sleep--a very important effect of its use.

Sometimes singing will be the order of the day, or rather evening, or

perhaps a book will be read aloud; but whatever amusement is resorted to

for the purpose of thoroughly enjoying the half-hour after supper,

whether it is singing, reading, or yarning, all are cheerful, contented,

and happy.

Home is, of course, a great topic of conversation, and what each man

intends doing on his return to England is freely discussed. We know all

about each other, and frequently detect ourselves confiding secrets that

we should under ordinary circumstances divulge only to our bosom

friends. Sometimes a hot argument is maintained between two men

belonging to different counties on the relative merits of the pigs of

their own counties and their manner of feeding; or perhaps they will get

into a discussion on the liberality of large landed proprietors near

whom they may be living. For instance, one man who lived in Devonshire

was extolling Lord Mount Edgcumbe. "Ah! he was a noble lord! he opened

his grounds once a week for the admission of the public." But another

man, hailing from Lancashire, answered by saying, "He didn't see that he

was any better than any other lord; for," he said, "Lord Derby admitted

the public into his park every day, and if it was raining he would send

his carriage for you!" This argument, although I fear not strictly

correct, was unanswerable, and the west countryman had to give in to the

more liberal experiences of his friend.

Before composing ourselves to sleep, the cook, having made the necessary

preparations for the morning's meal, passes in our coverlet. This is

always the last thing done before closing the door of the tent for the

night.

How is it possible to describe what this coverlet is like when handed

in? Those who have never been initiated into the mysteries of Arctic

sledge life would be unable to realize what it resembles when unpacked

from the sledge. It is more like a piece of wood or sheet-iron than an

article of woollen material. With the utmost difficulty it is unfolded;

but as for spreading, that is quite out of the question: it stands up in

the centre like a second tent, and refuses to lie flat, in spite of the

beating with which it is assailed. It is only after it has been some

time in this position that it gradually thaws, when it becomes a "wet

blanket" indeed!

The contents of this chapter may give some idea of the ordinary routine

of a sledge traveller's life. The details were invariably carried out

by the different sledge parties despatched from the "Alert." In the

succeeding chapter we will follow the fortunes of the northern division,

and I shall endeavour to depict briefly the difficulties it had to

contend with, and the manner in which they were surmounted.

CHAPTER XXII.

THE NORTHERN DIVISION--TRAVELLING IN APRIL.

"These high wild hills, and rough uneven ways,

Draw out our miles and make them wearisome;

And yet your fair discourse hath been as sugar,

Making the hard way sweet and delectable....

But I bethink me, what a weary way!"

_Richard II._

The different sledge parties having branched off, as related in the

preceding chapter, I must request my readers to follow the fortunes of

the northern division, which was under my command.

The serious obstacles that so persistently impeded our progress were

immediately encountered. The retreating forms of our comrades, who had

assisted us thus far, were scarcely out of sight before we were busily

engaged in constructing a road along which to drag our sledges. These

roads were rendered necessary in consequence of the rugged nature of the

ice over which we had to travel, the floes being of the smallest

dimensions as regarded superficial area, and surrounded by broad fringes

of squeezed-up hummocks. The hummocks proved most formidable impediments

to our advance. No sooner had we congratulated ourselves upon

successfully accomplishing a passage through one line of these

obstacles, than ~~ 274 another, and perhaps a more ragged and

apparently impassable hedge, appeared in front of us. It seemed as if a

terrible conflict had been fought between these ponderous masses of ice,

which had so shattered and split them up as to suggest to us the idea

that they resembled a tempestuous broken sea suddenly frozen.

[Illustration: OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS ON THE SEA ICE.

Made by the Northern Sledging Party under the command of Commander A. H.

MARKHAM.]

To make any advance at all, pickaxes and shovels were in constant

requisition, and with these implements we succeeded in hewing and

cutting a road for our sledges, by which we were able to make a

snail-like progress. The roughness of the road was not our only

difficulty. Around and about the hummocks the snow had drifted to such a

depth that the men were frequently floundering in it up to their waists,

and passages through this had to be cleared with shovels before the

sledges could be dragged on. Occasionally the sledges would have to be

unpacked and lightened considerably before they could be dragged through

this deep soft snow.

We, at first, attempted to console ourselves with the idea that this

irregular and broken sea of ice was only caused by our proximity to the

land; and that we should, as we advanced in a northerly direction, meet

with smooth level floes, on which we should be able to travel along

merrily, and so make up for the time expended in struggling through the

hummocks.

How delusive proved our hopes and anticipations the sequel will show!

The belts of hummocks that separated the floes varied from twenty yards

to half a mile in breadth, and were from fifteen to fifty feet in

height.

Road-making, as we called it, was a work of daily, I may say of

constant, occurrence. We regarded our pickaxes with great affection, and

they were consequently treated with the utmost tenderness and care. Any

mishap to them would have been indeed a serious misfortune, as we should

have nothing to supply their place, and would therefore have been in a

predicament in which we could neither advance nor return. The anxiety

with which they were watched may therefore be imagined.

Instead of giving simply a brief _résumé_ of our sledging life, it will,

I think, be more interesting to follow the sledge parties day by day in

their arduous march to the northward, and their still more irksome and

wearisome return journey. To do this, it will be as well to extract

portions from my daily journal, avoiding repetition as much as possible,

and commencing on the day after that on which we were left by our

supporting sledges to prosecute our undertaking.

_April 12th._--A most gratifying and unexpected change of weather

enabled us to pass a comparatively comfortable night, the temperature

inside our tent being as high as +16°. Hitherto it has stood at, and

generally far below, zero. With the thermometer in the air registering a

few degrees below zero, it is just possible to keep ourselves warm

enough inside our tents to sleep; but with a temperature ranging from

-35° downwards sleep is almost out of the question.

In order to keep the sun as much as possible at our backs during the

time we were on the march, we adopted the system of travelling, whilst

on our outward journey, between noon and midnight. The cooks were, as a

rule, called at about half-past nine in the forenoon, and the sledges

were generally on the move about half-past eleven. This time of

travelling was selected more with a view to the prevention of snow

blindness than anything else.

After breakfast the road-makers, six in number, were advanced for the

purpose of constructing a road through an ugly fringe of hummocks on the

southern side of which our camp had been pitched; the rest of the party

being employed in striking the tents, packing and bringing on the

sledges, one by one, as far as the road was practicable. Being a bright

sunny day the tent robes and other gear were triced up to the boats'

masts and yards to dry. The sun was powerful enough to extract the

moisture from the woollen substance, which would freeze, forming a sort

of hoar-frost that could with ease be brushed or shaken off.

On these bright clear days, the snow on the surface of the floes over

which we were journeying was so highly crystallized that it sparkled and

glittered with the most brilliant iridescent colours. The ground upon

which we trod appeared to be strewn with bright and lustrous gems, of

which the most prominent were diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires.

It was indeed a fairy-like scene; but our duties were too matter of fact

to admit of our indulging for any time in romance or sentiment.

A glance at our comrades would quickly recall us to the reality of our

situation. Their dirty and rough-clad forms were strangely at variance

with the scene of enchantment that might be conjured up. With faces

scarified by the combined action of sun and frost, and black with smoke,

with the tips of their fingers senseless from repeated frost-bites, with

sore shoulders and aching limbs, the wearied sledgers pursued their way,

not altogether indifferent to the beauties that surrounded them, but

careless of the difficulties and discomforts they encountered.

During the afternoon, being about three miles from the nearest land, we

observed, to our surprise, the fresh traces on the snow of a little

lemming! It is hard to tell what inducement this little animal could

have had for straying so far away from the land, and consequently from

its means of obtaining the wherewithal to support life!

We passed through a dense mass of hummocks, emerging, eventually, on a

heavy floe of "ancient lineage," whose surface was undulating, and

adorned with veritable "ice-mountains" some twenty feet in height. These

were generally of a rounded form and of a smooth surface, and appeared

to be the result of long and continuous snow-drift. We camped on the

northern edge of the floe, the men being employed in cutting a road

through the hummocks whilst supper was preparing, in readiness for our

start on the morrow.

A journey through, and over, hummocks is the most unsatisfactory kind of

travelling that can possibly be imagined. "Standing pulls" must be the

order of the day, and the incessant "one, two, three, haul" is

constantly heard. The trudging backwards and forwards to drag the

different sledges to the front along the same road is decidedly

monotonous; but this had no effect on the cheerfulness and general good

spirits of the men, who were all actuated by the same zealous desire to

do their best. The temperature all day had been delightful, ranging from

8° to 20° below zero.

_April 13th._--A dull, cloudy day, with the sun shining at intervals,

and the temperature as low at one time as -33°. We cut a road and

dragged the sledges through a fringe of hummocks about two hundred yards

in breadth, then crossed a fine large floe that afforded us capital

travelling for nearly a mile in a northerly direction, then through

another long fringe of large and troublesome hummocks, until we were

completely brought to a standstill by a mass of enormous fragments of

ice, piled up in an irregular form to the height of from twenty to

thirty feet. Through this obstacle we resolved to cut a road: in fact,

no other alternative offered. It was a long and tedious job; but with

such a hearty good will did the men work that we had the satisfaction of

dragging our sledges over a very rough road and encamping for the night

with the difficulties in our rear. Parr with pickaxe and shovel was a

first-rate "navvy," and worked like a horse.

Our routine was for one or other of us to select the best route through

the hummocks. This being done, one, with a gang of road-makers,

proceeded to construct the road, whilst the other, with the remainder of

the party, dragged the sledges on one by one. Great care had to be taken

that our boats, on the exceedingly rough road over which they were

dragged, did not sustain any injury. Sometimes it was a very delicate

matter, and one that required skilful handling, after the sledges had

been hauled up to the top of the hummocks, to lower them down in safety

on the opposite side. The ease and facility with which the ice yielded

to the dexterous blows of the pickaxes, wielded by strong and determined

men, was almost incredible. Apparently impenetrable masses of ice

vanished before their efforts, and left a fairly good road by which we

advanced.

_April 14th._--Last night our sleeping-bags were frozen so hard that it

was with great difficulty we succeeded in getting into them. Even when

this was accomplished, the warmth we derived from them was

inappreciable, and we felt more as if we were confined in a wooden box

or coffin than in a woollen bag! My blanket wrappers, although I laid on

them all night, were so stiff this morning that I had the utmost

difficulty in bending them over my feet! Being Good Friday, our prayers

in the morning were of longer duration than usual.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF TENT.]

Crossed an old floe having a hard incrustation on its surface--not

sufficiently strong, however, to bear the weight either of the men or

the sledges; consequently at every step we broke through, and would

then sink deeply into soft snow. This was not only very laborious but

very aggravating work.

[Illustration: A PACKED SLEDGE.]

On portions of the road, where these patches of level soft snow

occurred, the flat-bottomed taboggans, used in the Hudson Bay Company's

territory, would be suitable. But the greater part of the road was over

heavy broken-up hummocks and hard fragments of ice, lying at all kinds

of angles; on the whole we found the eight-men high-runner sledge which

we used, and which was originally designed by Sir Leopold McClintock,

infinitely preferable. Long experience has conclusively proved its

excellence. It was the kind of sledge with which the North West Passage

was discovered and the Parry Islands explored, and with us it once more

did most admirable service in many directions, and over the roughest

ground imaginable.

The temperature was too low to allow us to stop for the purpose of

obtaining a meridian altitude, which we invariably get at noon. There

was an unpleasant nipping breeze from the northward; our faces, more

especially our noses, being "touched up" constantly by Jack Frost.

The floes off Cape Joseph Henry, although actually smaller than most of

those we have crossed, were far more heavy. In all probability they are

reduced in size by great and continual pressure off the cape. The wind

freshening, and the weather becoming very thick, we halted an hour

earlier than we otherwise would have done.

John Shirley, one of my sledge crew, complained of pains in his ankles

and knees. On examination they appeared slightly swollen, and I treated

him according to the instructions laid down for the guidance of the

sledging officers by our doctor.

Although at the time ignorant of the fact, this was the first appearance

of that dreadful disease, scurvy, which shortly afterwards laid its

destroying hand upon us, and reduced us to such a helpless and prostrate

state. From this day we were deprived of the services of Shirley, who

gradually but surely got worse, and was never again able to render the

slightest assistance even in the most minute details of our routine.

_April 15th._--A N.W. gale, with an exceedingly low temperature, and an

impervious snow-drift, rendered travelling quite out of the question.

Extreme wretchedness, I might almost say abject misery, was our lot

to-day.

We appeared to receive little benefit, in the way of warmth, from our

tent robes, and the temperature inside our tent, with our whole party

huddled close together, was 22° below zero! Gladly would we have pushed

on had it been possible. A hard day's work, even amongst the most

impenetrable hummocks, would have been infinitely preferable to our

present forced detention and inactivity. Unable to stir outside the

tent, on account of the blinding snow-drift that was whirling around,

too cold to read or even to sit up in one's bag for the sake of

conversation, tent robes and bags frozen hard--a combination of these

evils renders the position of those who suffer from them an unenviable

one indeed. It is a remarkable fact that we this day experienced a lower

temperature during a gale of wind than we did during the whole winter at

the "Alert's" winter quarters. This appears to point conclusively to the

fact that there can be no large body of water either to the northward or

westward of us.

The thermometer invariably rose during the southerly gales experienced

in the winter, and this was very naturally attributed to the wind

blowing across a large expanse of open water.

_April 16th._--Easter Sunday.

The gale, although it had moderated, was still blowing too fiercely to

allow us to proceed. We were therefore compelled, sorely against our

inclination, to remain encamped. We unanimously came to the conclusion

that this was by far the most wretched and miserable Easter Sunday that

we had ever spent. Forty-eight hours in a gale of wind, tied up in a bag

off the most northern known land, with a temperature 67° below freezing

point, is certainly not the most pleasant manner that any one would

select for passing an Easter Sunday!

For forty hours I did not have the slightest feeling in my feet, and

could not really declare that I was in possession of those useful

members--as for sleep, under the circumstances, that was quite out of

the question. In spite of the cold and dismal surroundings, we did not

neglect last evening the usual Saturday night's toast, on receipt of our

small allowance of grog. It most decidedly had the effect of cheering us

up considerably, and for the time assisted in making us forget the

discomfort of our position. At half-past four in the afternoon, the wind

having subsided, it was determined to make a move. We felt that anything

was preferable to the tedium and dreariness of our compulsory detention.

The tents were accordingly struck, sledges packed, and the march

renewed. Shirley, being unable to walk, was placed in his sleeping-bag,

rolled up in the tent robes, and tied securely on one of the sledges.

This seriously added to the weight to be dragged, whilst it also reduced

our motive power; however, we hoped that by thus giving him complete

rest, he would the more rapidly recover and resume his place on the

drag-ropes.

Alas! how little did we think that the fearful and wasting disease, the

premonitory symptoms of which were now exhibited, would insidiously

steal its way amongst us, and assailing the party one by one reduce us

so disastrously as to bring us to the verge of destruction!

We cut our way through a hedge of hummocks about one-third of a mile in

breadth, and then on to a floe apparently of great thickness; but,

unfortunately for us, not more than three hundred yards across. Between

these stupendous floes we would occasionally meet with some young ice

amongst the hummocks which, when it trended in the right direction,

would afford us easy travelling; but these leads were never of any

extent.

The gale had accumulated the snow in deep drifts, which rendered the

task of dragging the sledges harder than ever. Our progress was

necessarily slow. We halted and encamped at half-past ten. The men

appeared to be more easily fatigued after lying so long idle in their

bags than if they had performed a hard day's work. Our camp this evening

was pitched almost abreast of Cape Joseph Henry, though some miles off

it.

When viewed from seaward, or more correctly speaking, "iceward," this

headland presents a bold and rugged appearance, rising nearly

perpendicular from base to summit, to a height of about eight hundred

feet, whence the land recedes, gradually ascending until it culminates

in a peak about three or four hundred feet higher. It appears to be of

limestone formation, with regular stratifications dipping to the

southward at an angle of 6° to 10° from the horizontal. The Cape itself

terminates in a knife-like edge from summit to base, in shape very much

resembling the ram-bow of an ironclad. Conical Hill, situated

immediately to the southward of Cape Joseph Henry, when observed on the

same bearing, presents more the form of a hog's back than a cone, but

possesses the same bold, rugged aspect. It is about the same height as

the peak surmounting Cape Joseph Henry, and is of the same formation;

but, unlike its neighbour, the strata dip to the southward at an angle

of about 6° or 10° from the vertical, giving it altogether a rather

distorted appearance. There is a great deal of similarity in the

surrounding hills, all being more or less coniform, and of an altitude

of from one to two thousand feet.

_April 17th._--Shirley no better this morning, and to add to our

troubles, George Porter, one of Parr's sledge crew, was also suffering

in the same manner from swollen and puffy knee joints.

Two men _hors de combat_ out of our little force diminishes our strength

very materially, and as they have both to be carried on the sledges it

adds seriously to the weights to be dragged. The morning was bright and

sunny, with a temperature as high as 24° below zero, so we congratulated

ourselves that it was now really on the turn, and that we should no

longer encounter any more extreme cold. The men take kindly to their

snow-goggles, and never attempt to take them off whilst on the

march--perhaps my expatiating largely on the excruciating agony and

acute pain inseparable from snow blindness, is in some way connected

with their submissiveness in this respect! Alfred Pearce was, yesterday,

rather severely frost-bitten on one of his fingers; but circulation was

rapidly restored, and to-day, with the exception of a little soreness,

he suffers no ill effects from it. The travelling to-day was nearly a

repetition of what we had hitherto been encountering: large masses of

ice thickly compacted together, squeezed up into every conceivable, but

indescribable, shape and form to a height of about twenty-five feet; but

these had to succumb to the strenuous exertions of Parr and his

indefatigable road-makers.

Energy and perseverance performed wonders. The men worked uncommonly

well--my only fear was that they would overtax their strength. Poor

fellows! they get little rest during the day, for even when we halt for

lunch, they are compelled to be continually on the move to keep their

blood in circulation. To sit or lie down for any length of time would be

fatal. No wonder, then, they are fatigued at the end of the day's work.

Some of the floes over which we travelled to-day were of greater

thickness than others, and it was no unfrequent occurrence for us to

drop a height of six or seven feet from the top of one floe to the

surface of another; or, _vice versâ_, to have to haul the sledges up the

same height. This was no easy work with our heavily laden sledges and

boats. Snow commenced falling at 3 P.M., and continued all night.

_April 18th._--The old story last night with our sleeping-bags! So hard

were they frozen that it occupied us a considerable time before we could

struggle into them. The night, however, was not so cold, and we

succeeded in sleeping pretty comfortably. Before starting this morning

we lightened our heavy sledge by making a redistribution of the weights

on all three sledges. By these means we hoped to be able to get on a

little better.

We found the helmet worsted caps that were so kindly given to us by the

Empress very warm and comfortable for sleeping in. They are much

appreciated by the men, who call them "Eugenies," and they constantly

refer with gratitude to her Majesty's kind and thoughtful present.

The travelling to-day was excessively heavy, in consequence of the

unevenness of the floes and the deep soft snow with which they were

covered. After lunch we arrived at and crossed some "veritable

palæocrystic floes"--apparently of gigantic thickness, and studded with

numerous rounded snow hillocks; the height of some of the latter being

as much as thirty feet above the surface of the floe. In crossing one of

these, the "Victoria" sledge capsized, but was soon righted without

damaging either the sledge or the boat, or injuring the invalid who was

lashed on top, and who received only a slight shaking. As we proceeded

northwards we opened out the land to the westward, and a large bay which

has since been called Clements Markham Inlet. A S.E. breeze sprang up in

the evening shortly before we halted, which, strange to say, sent the

temperature down rapidly to -33°, and we had, in consequence, to be

cautious about frost-bites.

_April 19th._--A fine clear day. Our bags last night were rendered a

little more habitable by having been exposed during the day to the heat

of the sun, which was sufficiently powerful to extract the greater part

of the moisture which had been absorbed by them. Our plan is on fine

days to suspend as much as we possibly can from the masts and yards of

the boats, and to spread the gear out over the sledges, so that it may

dry as we travel along. This answers admirably and enables us to pass

more comfortable nights.

After toiling hard for three and a half hours, during which time we had

advanced the sledges barely a quarter of a mile, I came to the

determination to abandon our largest boat. It was heart-breaking to

witness the men slaving in their endeavours to drag on the heavy sledge

and boat--to see the continual standing pulls, the incessant "one, two,

three, haul," and no result.

I did not arrive at this decision until after very mature deliberation.

My conviction was that amongst such ice as that over which we were

travelling, should a disruption occur, our boats would be of little

service to us, except as a means of ferrying from one floe to another.

For this purpose I retain the smaller boat.

Leaving the boat in as conspicuous a position as possible, with her mast

stepped and yard triced up, and having obtained a round of angles in

order to fix her position, so as to facilitate our finding her on the

return journey, the march was resumed, every one well pleased at being

rid of the incubus, as the large boat was always regarded. We travelled

over deep and uneven snow ridges, and experienced great difficulty in

getting from one floe to another, on account of the perpendicular drop.

Before halting we got on to some young ice amongst the hummocks, along

which we rattled gaily, actually performing a distance of about half a

mile in something like two hours! This is good work for us. It must be

remembered that we have to advance _three_ sledges, and to do this we

have to walk over the same road five times!

If our invalids would only show some symptoms of improvement we should

have more hope of reaching a higher latitude; but at present they

compensate in weight and loss of power for the abandonment of the boat.

I regard each man carried as about 200 lbs. extra weight, and the loss

of their services on the drag-ropes is about equal to another 200 lbs.

weight to be added--therefore the two invalids reckon as much as 800

lbs., exactly equivalent to the weight of the deserted boat! So long as

they remain ill, we gain nothing upon the actual weights dragged before

their sickness commenced. Instead of their getting better, we have the

prospect of an increased sick list, for this evening Alfred Pearce was

compelled to fall out from the drag-ropes, suffering from a badly

swollen ankle, and exhibiting in fact the same symptoms as the other

men.

_April 20th._--This morning we were unable to make a start in

consequence of the thickness of the weather. Snow was falling slightly,

but the fog was so dense that it was impossible to see the length of the

sledge ahead. As I had brought with me one of Dickens's works, "The Old

Curiosity Shop," I read aloud to the men, who were much interested in

the story.

By 2 P.M., the weather having cleared slightly, we determined to push on

and find our way through the fog and hummocks as best we could. The snow

was very deep and the hummocks appeared to be interminable. The task of

selecting a road was by no means easy--nothing to be seen but hummocks

in every direction. At eight o'clock, the fog lifting a little, we

succeeded in extricating ourselves from our difficulties, and crossing a

large heavy floe got on to a lead of young ice which gave us good

travelling. Although this young ice enabled us to travel quicker, and

rendered the work of dragging easier, still I was sorry to see it, as I

was rather apprehensive that the pack might break up earlier than we

anticipated, and so place us in an exceedingly awkward predicament. We

halted and camped at half-past ten, having (considering the lateness of

our start) performed a fair day's work.

_April 21st._--A keen piercing wind from the northward. Travelling much

the same. Although the temperature was only 17° below zero, the cold was

more intense than we had yet felt it since leaving the ship. The wind

seemed to cut us in two, and was the cause of numerous superficial

frost-bites. One man, Thomas Simpson, was rather severely frost-bitten

in the big toe, which was, however, quickly attended to and brought

round.

Our greatest enemies, whilst crossing a floe of any extent, were the

numberless cracks and fissures in the ice, radiating in all directions

and treacherously concealed by a covering of snow. Into these we

frequently fell, and as some of them were of great depth it seemed

almost miraculous that we escaped without a fractured limb! These cracks

must be produced either by enormous pressure or intense cold.

_April 22nd._--The wind blew in heavy squalls last night, and continued

fresh this morning; but as we all dreaded a longer detention in our tent

we resolved to push on at all hazards.

It was painful to witness the efforts of the poor fellows in their

endeavours to protect their faces from the cold cutting wind as they

plodded along, dragging the heavily laden sledges; but they seemed

cheerful enough, and treated the numerous frost-bites that appeared on

their cheeks as rather a good joke than anything else. The sun peeped

out for a few moments during the afternoon; but a heavy mist hung over

the land, entirely obscuring it from our view. The floes over which we

travelled to-day were more level than any we had yet crossed, and

infinitely larger; but as a set-off against this, we found the snow very

deep, which rendered the dragging excessively laborious. Few hummocks

adorned the edges of these floes. They appeared to have come into

contact with each other in a most amicable manner, and then immediately

united before any pressure could be exerted, so as to form the immense

hedges of heaped-up masses of ice that have hitherto been our great

bugbear. One floe crossed to-day was estimated at about a mile and

three-quarters in length, and about six miles in circumference.

_April 23rd._--Progressing but slowly. The travelling was very heavy,

through deep soft snow, and we were delayed considerably by being

obliged to make roads over broad belts of heavy hummocks.

We camped for the night on the verge of a floe, with enormous hummocks

squeezed up together immediately in front. The prospect of advancing was

not cheering! A S.E. breeze, springing up in the afternoon, sent the

temperature down suddenly to -24°. Our invalids did not appear to be

improving, and we were rather puzzled at some of their symptoms.

_April 24th._--The greater part of the day was employed in cutting a

road through a perfect sea of hummocks. They appeared to be

interminable. From the highest we could see nothing like a floe, nothing

but an uneven range of massive and shapeless blocks of ice. The

road-making was very hard and _very_ cold work, and the men had to be

relieved pretty often with the tools.

Skill is of more avail at this sort of work than brute force. A skilled

workman will soon demolish a large hummock, on which a strong but

inexperienced man is wasting all his energy and strength in fruitless

blows.

We had the satisfaction to-day of crossing the eighty-third parallel of

latitude,[1] and of knowing that we were the first party of men that

had ever reached such a high position. The wind to-day, although

decidedly unpleasant, was of some service, for being from the southward

we were able to make sail on our sledges and thus utilize the otherwise

unwelcome breeze.

_April 25th._--A beautiful day, but with a low temperature. A slight

breeze from the eastward reminded us that we possessed noses. These

latter appendages have been voted decided nuisances, and could easily be

dispensed with whilst sledging! The travelling to-day was a slight

improvement on our preceding day's work. Indeed at one time we were able

to advance our two light sledges "single banked," that is with their own

individual crews, instead of employing both crews to drag on one sledge

at a time; but this was only for a very short distance. The snow was

very deep and of a tenacious consistency, clinging to the sledge runners

and thereby seriously impeding our progress. So powerful were the rays

of the sun this afternoon that my thermometer, when exposed to them,

rose rapidly from -17° to -3°. At 6 P.M. I observed faint parhelia

showing prismatic colours. We were delayed towards the end of the day by

a broad belt of hummocks, through which a road had to be cut. The large

hummocks passed to-day, although smooth and rounded on the top and on

one side, were precipitous on the other and were fully thirty feet high.

Some of them appeared like isolated fragments in the centre of a floe,

and resembled the large grounded floe-bergs in the vicinity of the

"Alert's" winter quarters. They were undoubtedly portions of the floe

which had been broken off and squeezed up under irresistible pressure.

_April 26th._--Temperature to-day as high as -2°. For the first time,

since we have been away, were we able thoroughly to enjoy our lunch. On

account of the increased warmth, our bacon was more palateable, and we

could throw our wearied forms on the soft snow and discuss our pint of

tea without running the risk of having our toes frost-bitten. The

sensation of possessing feet was a novel and delightful one. Several of

the men have of late been attacked by violent bleedings of the nose; but

this, in all probability, is due to the rise of temperature. No

improvement in our travelling--still the same old story--hummocks and

snow-drifts, snow-drifts and hummocks. So dense were the latter that,

when we halted for the night, it really seemed as if we had arrived at

"the end of all things;" for in front of us was an apparently impassable

sea of hummocks extending north, east, and west as far as the range of

vision. A dismal prospect, indeed! But we did not despair, and still

hoped we might cut our way through these obstacles, and emerge upon

floes along which we should have little difficulty in advancing.

_April 27th._--A hard day's work! Road-makers incessantly employed, and

the sledges "double banked" the whole day, progress being necessarily

slow. Our invalids showed no signs of amendment, indeed two others

exhibited symptoms of the same disease; for such it appears to be.

Another great misfortune that happened was that both our shovels came to

grief--the handles breaking off at the junction between the wood and

iron. We, however, succeeded in "fishing" and thus rendering them

serviceable. We should be in a sorry plight if any accident happened to

our pickaxes as well as to our shovels. As an instance of the amount of

walking we had to perform, I may mention that to-day I had, of

necessity, to cross the same floe, on which the snow was knee-deep, no

less than thirteen times, "and didn't I hate that blackguard floe!"

_April 28th._--The temperature actually rose as high as +2°! This is the

first day that we have registered the thermometer above zero! It is a

decided improvement.

Last night, inside my tent, the temperature was as high as 33°, and, in

spite of a hard day's work, we were all busily employed, after supper

was over, in some way or another. A couple were splicing lanyards in

their drag-belts; one was tailoring; another repairing his moccasins;

one was darning his mitts, and another patching up his stockings with an

old blanket wrapper; whilst I was both reading aloud and dressing and

bandaging my patients' legs. All were smoking except myself. The effect

in a small confined tent may be imagined!

Two of the men, who are not tobacco smokers, smoked what they called

"herb" tobacco, which diffused a rather pleasing aroma, and served to

deaden the unpleasantness of the tobacco smoke. It is composed of

various dried aromatic herbs, and is, I believe, recommended by the

faculty for many disorders.

The travelling was as bad as ever--through heavy hummocks and deep

snow-drifts. We had the misfortune to capsize the sledge, on which was

one of the invalids; but a slight delay was the only inconvenience

caused. The weather in the afternoon became very thick, making it

extremely difficult to select a route. Everything was of one uniform

colour: above, below, behind, and before; all was alike, and it was

quite impossible to tell whether we were going up or down hill until a

fall would inform us of the fact. To our great surprise, this evening,

we came across the traces of a hare in the soft snow. They were

apparently recent, and travelling in a southerly direction. The little

creature was evidently very tired, as the footsteps appeared to be close

together. Poor Pussy! it must have wandered out on the floe and lost

itself, for we were quite seventeen miles from the nearest land. I have

no doubt, if we had followed up the track, that we should have found the

poor little animal lying dead or exhausted under some hummock, famished

for want of food.

_April 29th._--Small floes surrounded with high hummocks and covered

with deep snow, were still encountered, with occasionally a short lead

on some young ice that we sometimes met twining round the larger floes.

It was difficult to account for the presence of so much young ice, and I

can only suggest that, after the disruption in the summer, the pack

remained some length of time in a quiescent state, and so allowed the

young ice to form between the floes; for if once in motion, no ice of a

single season's formation could withstand the tremendous pressure that

would be exerted by these stupendous floes, but must inevitably be

pulverized and broken up into small fragments. Our wretched cook last

night made our tea and cooked our pemmican with the water obtained from

salt-water ice. We all in consequence suffered from intense thirst,

without being able to obtain anything to alleviate it.

_April 30th._--After halting last night the wind freshened into a gale,

the clouds thickened, and snow began to fall heavily, and this

continued all day without intermission, so much so that we were unable

to make a start. It was impossible to see the length of the sledge

ahead, and, surrounded as we were by hummocks, it would have been folly

to have attempted a move. We consoled ourselves by saying that the rest

would do us good, and that the invalids more especially would benefit by

it.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] By the Act of Parliament (58 Geo. III. cap. xx.) passed in 1818,

a reward of £1000 was assigned to any one who should cross the

latitude of 83° N. But in 1828 this Act for the encouragement of

Polar discovery was repealed by 9 Geo. IV. cap. lxvi.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE MOST NORTHERN POINT EVER REACHED BY MAN.

"And here on snows, where never human foot

Of common mortal trod, we nightly tread

And leave no traces, o'er the savage sea,

The glassy ocean of the mountain ice;

We skim its rugged breakers, which put on

The aspect of a tumbling tempest's foam

Frozen in a moment."

BYRON.

_May 1st._--A fine sunny morning ushered in the month of May, all the

more appreciated in consequence of the enforced idleness of the

preceding day. The bright sun had a wonderful effect upon us all. It

seemed to cheer and invigorate our spirits, whilst it stimulated us to

renewed exertions in our endeavours to reach as high a northern latitude

as possible. Our invalids, however, were very faint and weak. They

exhibited no favourable symptoms of improvement, and were a great clog

and drawback to our progress. With our diminished crews we found it hard

work to drag the sledges over the rough hummocky road, and through the

deep soft snow-drifts that were constantly met. Road-making became a

necessary part of the daily routine. Floes of any extent were rarely

seen, and we had to thread our way through a perfect labyrinth of

piled-up masses of ice, with little or no prospect of its improving. It

was a dreary and wild-looking scene: no living thing in sight but our

own little party, no colour or object to relieve the eye; nothing but a

chaotic and illimitable sea of ice. Sometimes a fog was observed

gradually rolling itself towards us, like a large mantle, until we were

completely enveloped in its dense folds; when, continuing its onward

course, it would roll as rapidly away, leaving a bright luminous band

stretching across the horizon in the direction whence it had come.

_May 2nd._--Although we had been told that there was not the slightest

chance of our being attacked with scurvy, still, from the utter

prostration of our invalids, combined with other symptoms, we were

almost inclined to believe that we were really afflicted with this dire

and wasting disease. It was a terrible idea that forced itself upon us,

and one that we were loath to indulge in; but we feared that the

symptoms pointed unmistakeably to the fact that this fearful disease, so

dreaded by the mariners of old, was gradually but surely laying its hand

upon us, completely prostrating those it attacked and rendering them

helpless from pain and exhaustion. Parr and myself spoke of it only when

we were by ourselves, as we considered it of the utmost importance that

the men should remain in ignorance as long as possible, and not even

suspect the nature of the disease which had crippled so many of their

number. Swollen joints and discolouration of the skin, attended with

faintness and great weakness, were the principal symptoms. Great as were

the natural difficulties which surrounded us, still, should our surmise

be correct, we could not but regard this as the most formidable of all

obstacles to our advance that could possibly be imagined. Our only hope

was that the five men now afflicted might, through their habits or

disposition, have been more prone to the attacks of this insidious

disease, than the remainder of our party, who, we hoped, might escape

scathless. We camped this evening amidst a pile of hummocks, after one

of the hardest day's work we have yet performed. So rough was the road

and so deep was the snow that the sledges could only be advanced by

"standing pulls." This was disheartening, for we had all been cherishing

the hope that as we advanced northwards we should find larger and more

level floes and less snow; the reverse, however, was the case. Several

times did one or other of us disappear through deep rents in the floe,

but we always succeeded in scrambling up again unhurt.

_May 3rd._--A dull, dark, foggy day rendered it extremely difficult to

select our road, and we were occasionally compelled to unload the

sledges before they could be dragged through the deep soft snow-drifts

which were continually met across our route, making the work all the

more hard and distressing. The fog persistently hung over us all day;

but was not sufficiently dense to retard our progress altogether, though

it materially increased our labours and augmented our difficulties.

_May 4th._--Everything appeared to combine against us: weather, snow

ice, and sickness! In spite of these evils our tents were struck and a

start made; but after advancing for half a mile, which took us exactly

three and a half hours to accomplish, we arrived at such a confused heap

of hummocks that, with the dense fog prevailing and the falling snow,

it was impossible to make any headway. To persevere would have been

imprudent. The tents were accordingly pitched, and we consoled ourselves

by saying that the rest would be productive of much good to our sick

companions, for even those that had to be carried on the sledges could

get no rest whilst being dragged and jolted and sometimes capsized over

the roughest road imaginable. After lunch, the weather clearing a

little, we employed ourselves in cutting a road through an amorphous

conglomeration of ice for quite three-quarters of a mile. The pack over

which we were travelling appeared to consist of numerous small floes,

the largest being barely one hundred yards across at its widest

diameter, but the majority much smaller, and each of these floes was

surrounded by a mass of hummocks piled up and lying one on top of the

other to the height of twenty and thirty feet: the belts of hummocks

being from thirty to forty yards in breadth.

Observing one large hummock to be very much discoloured, we found, on

approach, that this discolouration was caused by the adhesion of mud or

clay, a line of which extended for some distance along the edge of the

floe, and gave one the idea that it had rubbed against, or in some

manner had come into contact with, the shore. Mud it undoubtedly was,

and we bottled a quantity of it for the purpose of subjecting it to

microscopic investigation when we should return on board. This was

conclusive evidence that a periodical, if not an annual, disruption of

the pack occurs, and that these floes, although now at such a distance

from the land, had at some time or another been in very close

proximity. Moreover, this must have occurred at a recent date,

otherwise the summer thaws and the autumn snow would have obliterated

all such traces as those we had discovered.

_May 5th._--The weather was still as thick as pea-soup! However, we were

able to avail ourselves of the road that we had constructed yesterday,

and moved our camp so far. To do this, although the road was fairly good

and the distance only three-quarters of a mile, the time occupied was

four and a half hours! The scene that surrounded our encampment was a

dreary one indeed--a desolate, cold, and inhospitable scene: everything

of the same uniform colour; no object to relieve the eye; no signs of

life; nothing to break the stillness and solitude of this waste of snow

and ice. Surely Shelley must have contemplated such a scene when he

wrote the following lines:

"Those wastes of frozen billows that were hurled

By everlasting snow-storms round the Poles,

Where matters dared not vegetate nor live,

But ceaseless frost round the vast solitude

Bound the broad zone of stillness."

It was a relief, indeed, to turn from such a scene, and rest the eye

upon our little encampment, while listening to the cheerful voices of

our men, as, oblivious to hardship and suffering, they sat "yarning," in

their tents, and relating to each other their adventures in other parts

of the globe. To our great satisfaction and comfort the temperature was

at, or about, zero all day, and for the first time, since leaving the

ship, we were able to eat our bacon without in the first place thawing

it in our tea!

_May 6th._--A fine, bright day; but the rest of yesterday had produced

no beneficial results. Our invalids were gradually getting worse; even

those who were apparently in good health complained of aching limbs, and

exhibited some of the first symptoms of those who were already ailing.

Four of the men had also been suffering for the last few days from snow

blindness, though not in a severe form. A suger of lead lotion afforded

them great relief, and acted as a cure. We had been so far extremely

fortunate in our comparative exemption from this painful and irritating

affliction. We must attribute our immunity from it to the constant use

of our snow-goggles, which were never taken off until the time of

"bagging!"

In getting under weigh in the morning, and also when we are encamping,

the sick men cause us no little delay; for they are perfectly helpless,

and require assistance in every little detail connected with their

dressing and undressing, being totally incapacitated from doing anything

themselves.

The travelling was very heavy. We appeared to have arrived at a perfect

barrier of hummocks, with portions of large floes intermixed, all broken

and squeezed up together and covered with deep snow. As far as reaching

a high latitude was concerned, we might as well have turned back at

once, for our advance must needs be slow; but it was not impossible that

this sea of hummocks, with which we were contending, might be the limit

of our rough road, and that if we could succeed in struggling through

them for a few miles, we might emerge upon large and level floes on

which we should be able to travel with greater ease and celerity.

Possibly the rugged nature of the ice might be due to the junction of

two tides, which, from the commotion produced, would create the

obstacles that were impeding our progress. After halting for the night,

a party of men were employed road-making whilst the tents were being

pitched and supper preparing. All were very glad to get into their bags

and rest after the fatigues of the day. A slight air from the S.E. sent

the temperature down rapidly to 11° below zero. The minus quantities

still prevailed.

_May 7th._--We started this morning carrying three of our invalids; but

before we had gone many yards it became painfully evident that the two

others were quite unable to walk, although the gallant fellows struggled

along manfully.

Our only resource was to advance the sledges and then return with them

empty to bring on the other disabled sufferers. We had now a third of

our little band _hors de combat_, our strength was diminishing daily,

and our weights on the sledges in consequence were increasing. The

travelling appeared to be getting, if possible, worse; the hummocks were

higher and the snow-drifts deeper. One of the former, on being measured

by means of a lead line, was found to be, from the top of the floe to

its summit, forty-three feet three inches.

We halted earlier than usual, and, having constructed a pedestal for the

magnetic instrument out of solid snow, obtained a series of observations

for the inclination of the needle and for the total magnetic force.

_May 8th._--We at length forced ourselves to believe that the disease

from which our men were suffering was really scurvy. We issued to those

who were afflicted daily allowances of lime-juice from the small stock

that we brought away with us.

But it was with the utmost difficulty that a small allowance for each

could be thawed. The lime-juice was in two bottles. On putting one near

the cooking apparatus to thaw, the bottle cracked and fell to pieces. At

last I adopted the plan of placing the other bottle between my legs when

in the sleeping-bag, and, after a long time, I succeeded in thawing a

small quantity. But it is now known that this was of no use; for the

state of the lime-juice used by Dr. Coppinger at Polaris Bay showed that

the whole volume must be thawed and remixed before it can be used with

any advantage. This can only be done in the warmer weather of June or

July.

The loss of appetite, depression of spirits, with other symptoms were,

we thought, decidedly scorbutic, and we feared, without fresh meat and

vegetables, that there was little chance of seeing the sick men on the

drag-ropes again during the journey. Being a fine, bright day, the

invalids were made to come out and bask in the sun, whilst the rest of

the party, with pickaxes and shovels, were engaged in cutting a road

through the hummocks. A double series of magnetic observations were

obtained, together with sights for latitude, longitude, and variation of

the compass. The hummocks amongst which our tents were pitched were of

various heights and bulk, from small fragments of ice to huge piles over

forty feet high. Some of them consisted of a number of small hummocks

squeezed up into one large mass, whilst others were apparently the

regular floe-bergs, and, although perhaps of greater bulk, were not

quite so high.

Between these hummocks, and consequently along the only road where we

could drag our sledges, the snow had accumulated in drifts to a great

depth, and this, formed into ridges by the wind, rendered the travelling

all the more difficult. Occasionally the tops of these ridges were

frozen hard, and it was of no uncommon occurrence to step from deep

snow, through which we were floundering up to our waists, on to a hard,

frozen piece, or _vice versâ_.

Sometimes these ridges were only partially frozen, or covered with a

slight crust, just hard enough _not_ to bear our weights, and this made

it exceedingly disagreeable and laborious to travel over.

_May 9th._--Another beautifully warm day, with the temperature only a

degree or two below zero! It was impossible to remain idle on such a

day, so we resolved to push on.

Lightening two of the sledges of about half their loads, two of the sick

men were placed on them, and these were dragged to the limit of the road

made yesterday. Here the tent was pitched, the two invalids placed

inside, the sledge unpacked and dragged back. In this manner we

succeeded in advancing during the day a distance of about three-quarters

of a mile; but so tortuous was our road, and so often had it to be

traversed, that to accomplish this short distance we had to walk about

seven miles, and this through very deep snow. Rawlings, Simpson, and

Ferbrache were complaining of aching limbs, and their legs exhibited

slight discolouration.

_May 10th._--We advanced the sledges in the same manner as yesterday,

accomplishing about the same distance; but so distressing was it to see

the exertions of the men in their endeavours to perform a good day's

work, and so painful was it to witness the sufferings of the sick, that

I very reluctantly came to the conclusion that our camp this evening

must be our most northern one. With five of my little force disabled,

and as many more showing decided scorbutic symptoms, it would have been

imprudent to persevere farther, however much inclination might prompt

such a proceeding. Besides, our provisions must be taken into

consideration, and we had only thirty days left to take us back a

distance that occupied us forty days to advance, so that our turning

back became an imperative necessity. We might, I think, console

ourselves with the knowledge that the motto engraved on my flagstaff,

and which had been presented to me by my friend and former Captain, now

Commodore A. H. Hoskins, had been fully carried out. It was happily

chosen, and although the lines are expressed in the first personal

pronoun they had reference to the whole party:

"I dare do all that may become a man:

Who dares do more is none."

We felt that the absence of any greater success could not be attributed

either to a lack of energy or of perseverence. It was, however, a bitter

ending to all our aspirations, for which even the knowledge of being

homeward bound failed to compensate. In justice to my brave companions I

must say that no men could have done more under the same circumstances.

_May 11th._--Having arrived at the determination of dragging the sledges

no farther in a northerly direction, I deemed it desirable to try what

good two days' perfect rest would do for our invalids; and, as there

were many useful observations to be taken in this high latitude, I

determined to devote the two following days to obtaining them. As soon

as breakfast was discussed, a snow pedestal was erected for the

instrument for determining the magnetic force and inclination of the

needle, a double series of observations being obtained. Sights were

taken in order to fix our position both by latitude and longitude, and

also for the variation of the compass.[1]

Some of the men were employed in cutting a hole through young ice that

existed between the hummocks in order that we might obtain deep sea

temperatures with a Casella's thermometer, which we had brought with us

for the purpose.

In three hours this work was accomplished, the ice being only sixty-four

inches in thickness. On attempting to get soundings, to our great

surprise we succeeded in finding bottom in seventy-one fathoms (four

hundred and twenty-six feet).

At this depth we managed to obtain, by various contrivances that were

lowered down, a specimen of the bottom, which was carefully bottled, in

order to be carried to the ship, there to undergo microscopic

examination.

[Illustration: HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP.]

Wishing to possess any specimens of animal life that might exist in this

high latitude, a bread bag, filled with the scrapings of our pannikins

and a little pemmican, was lowered to the bottom, and, having been kept

there some hours, was hauled up, and to our great joy found to be almost

alive with numerous small crustaceans[2] and foraminifera; specimens

of which were, of course, collected and preserved, being the most

northern animal life yet discovered. With our thermometer a series of

temperatures was taken at every ten fathoms, whilst the specific gravity

of the surface water was also obtained.

Tidal action was apparent; but, with the means at our disposal, we were

unable to observe the rise and fall of the tide, or to make any accurate

measurement regarding it. Altogether the day was not unprofitably spent.

_May 12th._--This 12th of May must always be regarded as an eventful day

in the lives of our little party, for it was that on which we had the

honour, and no small gratification, of planting the Union Jack on the

most northern limit of the globe ever attained by civilized man, or, in

fact, so far as our knowledge goes, by mortal man! In order to insure

being within four hundred miles of the North Pole, we started

immediately after breakfast to the northward, carrying with us the

sextant, artificial horizon, and all our colours and banners. We were a

party of ten,[3] two men being left behind to attend to the wants of the

five who were sick, and who were left comfortably settled inside the

tents.

The walking was undoubtedly severe, at one moment struggling through

deep snow-drifts, in which we floundered up to our waists, and at

another tumbling about amongst the hummocks.

Some idea may be formed of the difficulties of the road, when, after

more than two hours' hard walking, with little or nothing to carry, we

had barely accomplished one mile!

Shortly before noon a halt was called, the artificial horizon set up,

and the flags and sledge standards displayed. Fortunately the sun was

favourable to us, and we were able to obtain a good altitude as it

passed the meridian, although almost immediately afterwards dark clouds

rolled up, snow began to fall, and the sun was lost in obscurity.

We found the latitude to be 83° 20´ 26´´ N., or three hundred and

ninety-nine miles and a half from the North Pole. The announcement of

our position was received with three cheers, with one more for Captain

Nares; then all sang the "Union Jack of Old England," our "Grand

Palæocrystic Sledging Chorus," winding up, like loyal subjects, with

"God save the Queen."

No words of mine could describe the scene that surrounded us better than

those of Coleridge in his "Ancient Mariner":

"The ice was here, the ice was there,

The ice was all around."

For nought else but snow and ice could be seen in any direction.

In spite, however, of these dreary surroundings, suggesting everything

that was desolate and miserable, mirth, happiness, and joy seemed to

reign paramount amongst our little party. Perhaps there was something

in the idea of having been farther north than any other man had hitherto

penetrated, that promoted such feelings! Whatever produced them, they

were shared in by all. Even the sick, on our return to camp, prostrate

and suffering as they were, participated in the general hilarity and

rejoicing. They knew their toilsome journey had terminated, and that

each day would bring them nearer to their ship and to those supplies

that were necessary to save their lives.

On returning to the tents, a magnum of whiskey, kindly sent by the "Dean

of Dundee," for the express purpose of being drunk at our highest

northern position, was broached, and for supper we had divided amongst

the two sledge crews a hare that had been shot by Dr. Moss on the third

day after leaving the ship. Could men in our position want more? Never

were the bones of a hare picked so clean! No dog would have benefited

much from the scraps remaining from our repast!

Absent friends were duly toasted, and the evening was brought to a close

with songs, in which even the invalids joined. All appeared happy,

cheerful, and contented.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] The original from which the annexed illustration is a copy, was

painted by Admiral R. B. Beechey, and exhibited in the Royal Academy

in 1877. It is now in the possession of Mr. Clements Markham.

[2] _Anonyx nugax_, a fine adult male example, and several smaller

ones. The length of the largest specimen is 1½ inch. This species is

one of the commonest and most abundantly distributed of the northern

_Amphipoda_. It was discovered by Captain Phipps in 1773, and is

found along the shores of Arctic America, in the White Sea, on the

coasts of Greenland, Iceland, Spitzbergen, Norway, and in the Sea of

Okhotsk.

[3] The names of these men are--Commander A. H. Markham, Lieutenant

A. A. C. Parr, Thos. Rawlings, Ed. Lawrence, John Radmore, Thos.

Jolliffe, Daniel Harley, Wm. Ferbrache, Wm. Maskell, and John

Pearson.

CHAPTER XXIV.

RETURN OF THE NORTHERN DIVISION.

"Is not short payne well borne, that brings long ease,

And layes the soule to sleepe in quiet grace?

Sleepe after toyle, port after stormie seas,

Ease after warre, death after life, does greatly please."

_Faërie Queene._

At three o'clock on the afternoon of the 13th of May the homeward march

was commenced, our main object, of course, being to get back to the ship

as speedily as possible.

Before starting, a couple of records, inclosed in two tin cases, were

deposited on the floe. One was placed as near the centre of the floe as

possible, the other was secured on the top of a hummock.

On the records was stated the latitude and longitude of the position,

together with a few words regarding the condition of the party. If these

are ever picked up it will be very interesting and important, as

throwing light on the drift or tide in these high latitudes.

It is unnecessary to describe the incidents that occurred on each

successive day during the return journey. Day by day did our strength

diminish. Gradually, but surely, the men, one after the other, began to

feel the cruel grasp of the disease, as they struggled manfully on,

dragging their poor, helpless companions, in spite of racking pains and

aching limbs. Although themselves attacked by the dreadful malady, the

men who were still able to work suppressed their own sufferings in their

endeavours to ameliorate those of their more helpless and ailing

comrades. Unmindful of their own miserable plight, they devoted

themselves to the tender and soothing functions of nurses with a

thoughtful and careful tenderness that would have done credit even to

those of the weaker sex.

Often had the same road to be traversed, as the sledges were advanced

one at a time, and most fortunate was it that we were able to adhere to

the road constructed during our outward journey. To do so, however,

during the thick weather which constantly prevailed, was a task of great

difficulty and very trying to the eyes; but we knew that if by ill-luck

we should wander away and lose it, our chances of ever seeing the ship

again would be poor indeed! The hours selected for travelling were

between 6 P.M. and 6 A.M. By choosing this part of the day, or rather

night, for working, we kept the sun as much as possible at our backs,

and slept during the warmth of the day. Towards the end of May, although

the temperature of the outside air was below the freezing point, the sun

was so powerful that it would raise the temperature inside our tent,

whilst we were sleeping, to as much as 70° or 80°, which would be quite

unbearable! Frost-bites had become a thing of the past, and were no

longer dreaded. The temperature did not rise above the freezing point

until the month of June.

Snow fell heavily during the greater part of the return journey, and

fogs were very prevalent. Gales of wind had to be endured, for to halt

was out of the question--rest there was none--onward was the order of

the day.

As the disease gradually assumed the mastery over the party, so did the

appetites decrease, and in a very alarming manner, until it was with the

greatest difficulty that anybody could be induced to eat at all. Instead

of each man disposing of one pound of pemmican a day, the same quantity

sufficed for the entire party in one tent; and even this, occasionally,

was not consumed. Nor was the subject of eating and drinking so often

discussed. During the outward journey, beefsteaks and onions, mutton

chops and new potatoes, and Bass's beer formed the chief topics of

conversation. On the return journey they were scarcely alluded to.

Hunger was never felt; but we were all assailed by an intolerable

thirst, which could only be appeased at meal times, or after the

temperature was sufficiently high to admit of quenching our thirst by

putting icicles into our mouths.

Aching bones and sleepless nights were the chief causes of our

sufferings.

With all these hardships it was a great comfort to be able to put on dry

foot gear. If it was fine when we encamped, our blanket wrappers and

hose were spread out on the tent in the sun, so that when we got up they

were not only dry, but _not frozen_, and were, therefore, limp and

supple!

On the 17th of May we again, strange to say, crossed the track of a

hare, being at the time about twenty-five miles from the nearest land.

Like the track before seen, the footsteps were close together,

indicating that the poor little creature was in a very exhausted state.

Although the traces were very indistinct, they appeared to be going in a

northerly direction.

Though our travelling was slow, we could see a perceptible decrease in

the distance between ourselves and the land, whenever the weather was

fine enough for us to observe it. "Old Joe," as the men irreverently

termed Cape Joseph Henry, loomed nearer and darker, and we all regarded

it with anxious, longing eyes.

On the 18th of May the first icicles were observed hanging from the

edges of a few hummocks--a sure sign of the returning power of the sun.

Ominous symptoms of a disruption of the pack were seen on the same day,

and again on the following one. A crack in some ice had opened

considerably since we last passed over it, whilst small hummocks had

been formed by the pressure of two floes, one against the other. These

little indications made matters assume a still more serious aspect. They

may have been due to tidal action, but they were undoubtedly warnings to

get off the pack as speedily as possible.

On the 20th the snow crystals that fell actually melted on coming into

contact with our clothes or any dark substance. These crystals were all

of a beautiful stellar shape. A hummock passed, although composed,

apparently, of one piece of ice, was of two different colours, a deep

blue and a pale yellow. Portions of each were broken off for the purpose

of testing their respective specific gravities, and also to carry back

to the ship for analysis. In all probability the discolouration was

caused by the presence of diatomaceæ. The hummocks, at about this date,

began to assume a different appearance, the mild weather depriving them

of their snowy covering, and causing them to lose much of their former

resemblance to gigantic wedding cakes!

The men began to have an inkling of the nature of the disease from which

they were suffering, although we studiously avoided all mention of it.

It went with them by the name of the "Joseph Henry mange!" Their spirits

were wonderful, and they joked each other as they hobbled along. Their

lameness they called the "Marco Polo limp," and declared on their return

to England they would introduce it as the fashionable gait!

Nothing appeared to subdue their courage or their zeal. Orders were

always executed with the utmost willingness and good humour, and with as

much alacrity as they were capable of evincing.

The men having heard that tea-leaves had been recommended as a good

_vegetable_, the contents of the tea-kettle, after lunch and supper,

were carefully collected, and devoured with avidity; but there is little

faith, I fear, to be placed in their efficacy for warding off or

subduing our terrible complaint.

Instead of our sledge loads appearing to diminish in weight as the

provisions were consumed, they seemed to drag heavier, and we were at a

loss whether to attribute this to the depth and softness of the snow

over which we travelled, or to the increasing weakness of our party! It

was hard work, and as much as we could do to make any progress at all.

The men experienced great difficulty in moving their legs, the slightest

exertion caused intense pain, and it was a piteous sight to witness

them struggling bravely on, without uttering a murmur or complaint.

They all knew that their only hope of safety was to get back to the ship

as speedily as possible.

The 24th of May being the Queen's birthday, all the flags and banners

were displayed during the short time we halted for lunch, and her

Majesty's health was drunk by her most northern and not least loyal

subjects. On that day, amongst the entire party, we could only muster

four and a half good and sound pairs of legs! Still even those with

"game legs" stuck to the drag-ropes nobly, and if they were unable to

render much assistance, still the drag-ropes acted as a support, and

therefore enabled them to keep up.

On the 25th the eighty-third parallel of latitude was recrossed.

The comparatively high temperature caused the snow over which we

journeyed to assume a "sludgy" consistency, which clung tenaciously to

our legs and to the sledge runners, rendering the work of dragging and

walking all the more laborious.

On the 27th the condition of the party was so critical that it became

only too painfully evident that, to insure their reaching the land

alive, the sledges must be considerably lightened in order to admit of a

more rapid advance. The state of the party was on that day as follows:

five men were in a very precarious condition, utterly unable to move,

and consequently had to be carried on the sledges; five others nearly as

bad, but who nobly persisted in hobbling after the sledges, which they

could just manage to accomplish, for, as the sledges had to be advanced

one by one, it gave them plenty of time to perform the distance; whilst

three others exhibited all the premonitory scorbutic symptoms. Thus only

the two officers and two men[1] could be considered as effective! This

was, it must be acknowledged, a very deplorable state of affairs.

I therefore decided to abandon the remaining boat, which would

materially lessen the load to be dragged. This decision was only arrived

at after long and anxious consideration. I had to decide which was the

lesser of two evils.

For I well knew that should a disruption of the pack occur, and we had

already observed ominous signs of such an event, without a boat the

party would indeed be placed in a hopeless position; but again I knew

that in retaining the boat, the weights to be dragged by our weakened

crew would be so excessive as to preclude the possibility of reaching

the shore before all the provisions would be expended, and starvation

would be the result. Again it was of the utmost importance that haste

should be made in order to reach the ship, and place the sick under

proper medical treatment. The disease was extending so rapidly as to

produce a marked change for the worse every day. The boat, therefore,

and all superfluous weights were abandoned, and the march was again

wearily resumed.

Many a silent prayer was offered up to God to protect and watch over us,

for we felt, indeed, that we were in dire distress, and that without His

aid and assistance we must perish; and we prayed for strength to enable

us to drag our poor helpless and suffering companions to a place of

safety. A record was left in the deserted boat, containing a brief

account of our state and condition, with the latitude and longitude

where it was abandoned.

[Illustration: SNOW BUNTING]

On the following day great excitement was caused by the appearance of a

snow bunting, which was seen fluttering about amongst the hummocks,

uttering its sweet and pleasant chirp, which to us was the most pleasing

music we had heard for many a long day. No wonder the sudden appearance

amongst us of this little warbler was so interesting, for it was the

first bird we had seen for nine long months. Even the invalids, as they

lay on the sledges, requested that they might have their faces

uncovered, so as both to see and hear the little friend that had flown

off to us, as if it were a messenger to welcome our party back to life

and friends. Long and anxiously was it watched as it winged its course

towards the land, whither we also were slowly wending our way.

On the 29th the colours were again displayed at lunch time, in

commemoration of the first anniversary of our sailing from England, and

allusions were made to that ever-memorable day, comparisons being drawn

between our condition then and now! On that evening our tents were

pitched close to the boat that we had abandoned on our outward journey,

and which we found exactly in the same state as when we left it, with

its mast stepped and yard hoisted, standing out like a grim sentinel

guarding those icy wastes.

On the 31st, whilst crossing some young ice between two heavy floes, one

of the sledges broke through, and we had no little trouble in saving it

from complete immersion, and the invalid who was on it from being

drowned! These warnings were unmistakeable, and pointed to the necessity

of reaching the land as quickly as possible. The falling snow and drift

thawed upon our clothes, making us wet and extremely wretched and

uncomfortable.

On the 1st of June the temperature was some two or three degrees above

freezing point. This had the effect of thawing the surface snow and

converting it into a thick sludge. Our foot gear in consequence was in a

soaking wet state. Our working force on this day was reduced to six, and

all suffering more or less.

On the 2nd the thick weather, which had so persistently clung to us,

proved triumphant and robbed us of our road. Up to this date we had been

able to avail ourselves of the road constructed with so much trouble and

labour on our outward journey. On this day we wandered off it, and in

spite of our efforts were unable to pick up the trail again. The severe

and monotonous labour of road-making had again to be resorted to. On the

5th, to our very great joy, we succeeded once more in pitching our camp

on _terra firma_, after an absence from it of two months. On first

landing our hopes were excited on observing the recent traces of a

sledge and human footprints, and we congratulated ourselves upon soon

obtaining that relief we all so much required; but we were doomed to

disappointment, for on reaching the depôt of provisions established near

Cape Joseph Henry for our use, and which was found intact, we learnt

that a sledge party with Captain Nares had left for the ship only two

days previously! This was a bitter blow, for we knew that something more

than provisions was needed for the safety of the party.

We learnt also that scurvy had made its appearance on board the "Alert,"

and that poor Petersen died from the effects of his last sledge journey,

on the 14th of May.

Three hares had been kindly and thoughtfully left for us in a crevice

amongst the hummocks by Captain Nares, and this furnished us with meals

for a couple of days; it is needless to add, they were done ample

justice to, not only for the sake of their goodness and the change they

afforded, but also because we thought the fresh meat would act as a

specific against the scurvy.

The tracks of a wolf were observed near the depôt, and the animal was

frequently heard howling in a mournful manner, but we never saw it.

Obtaining a few supplies from the depôt, our march was again resumed;

but so rapid had been the encroachments of the disease, that it was

only too palpable that immediate succour was absolutely necessary for

our salvation. At the rate of progress we were making, it would take us

fully three weeks to reach the ship, although only forty miles distant;

and who would there be left in three weeks' time? The few who were still

strong enough to drag the sledges would barely last as many days!

Assistance had, therefore, to be obtained. To procure it, one amongst us

was ready and willing to set out on this lonely and solitary mission,

with the firm reliance of being able to accomplish what he had

undertaken, and with the knowledge that he possessed the full confidence

of those for whose relief he was about to start on a long and hazardous

walk. On the 7th of June Lieut. Parr started on his arduous march to the

ship. Deep and heartfelt were the God-speeds uttered as he took his

departure, and anxiously was his retreating form watched until it was

gradually lost to sight amidst the interminable hummocks.

"All waste! no sign of life

But the track of the wolf and the bear!

No sound but the wild, wild wind,

And the snow crunching under his feet."

Although the loss of one strong man, like Parr, from the party was

seriously felt, still the knowledge that active steps had been taken to

procure aid was sufficient to compensate for this reduction in our

strength, and the men gallantly persevered at the drag-ropes, buoyed up

by renewed hopes.

On the day previous to that on which Parr left, an Eskimo dog, to our

great surprise, was seen threading its way to us through the hummocks.

It was soon recognized to be one of our dogs, named Flo; but she was so

timid that at first nothing would induce her to approach. After a little

time, however, we coaxed her to us, and on having some pemmican thrown

to her she ate it ravenously. Poor thing! she was wretchedly thin and

emaciated; she, we concluded, had been cast adrift, or made her escape

from the last dog-sledge that visited this neighbourhood. She joined our

tail of cripples, hobbling, like them, after us and carefully walking in

the track of our sledges.

On the 8th of June sadness and despondency prevailed amongst our little

band. One of our number had received that summons to which all must at

some time attend, and had been called to his long account.

"His soul to Him who gave it rose.

God led it to its long repose--

Its glorious rest."

This was a terrible and unexpected blow to many who regarded themselves

as being in a still more critical and precarious condition than was poor

Porter. His end was calm and peaceful, and he retained his senses to

within five minutes of the time of dissolution.

Sad and mournful, indeed, was the small procession that wended its way

slowly to the new-made grave, dug out of a frozen soil, carrying the

lifeless remains of their comrade, covered with the Union Jack, on the

same sledge on which he had been dragged, whilst alive, for many weeks;

and there, with the tears trickling down their weather-beaten and

smoke-begrimed faces, with their hearts so full as to choke all

utterance, they laid their late fellow-sufferer in his last

resting-place.

A rude cross, improvised out of the rough materials that our own

equipment supplied, with a brief inscription, marks the lone and dreary

spot in that far-off icy desert where rests our comrade in his long

sleep that knows no waking, and where probably human foot will never

again tread.

"O World! so few the years we live,

Would that the life that thou dost give

Were life indeed!

Alas! thy sorrows fall so fast,

Our happiest hour is when at last

The soul is freed."

Gladly, after the ceremony was concluded, was the order to renew the

march received, every one being desirous of quitting a place so fraught

with sad and melancholy associations; the day, as if in unison with the

state of our own thoughts and feelings, was dull and gloomy.

The late mournful event produced a despondency in our little band to

which we had hitherto been strangers.

One and all felt and knew that assistance, to be of any avail, must

arrive speedily, and many a wistful glance was directed towards the

south, in the faint hope of seeing that succour without which they would

surely perish. They felt more their own weakness and helplessness, and

dreaded a recurrence of what had recently taken place. The journey was

silently and wearily resumed.

As many of the men were unable to eat their pemmican, on account of the

soreness of their gums, and from a certain dislike that they had lately

taken to it, a new "dish" was tried, consisting of preserved potatoes

mixed with bacon fat, and although in flavour, if any was perceptible,

it rather resembled what starch might be like, it was decidedly

acceptable as a change, and each person consumed about two-thirds of a

pannikin.

On the morning of the 9th a rainbow was seen, which, being an unusual

sight, afforded much interest. On the same day, shortly after the march

had been commenced, a moving object was suddenly seen amidst the

hummocks to the southward. At first it was regarded as an optical

illusion, for we could scarcely realize the fact that it could be

anybody from the "Alert!" With what intense anxiety this object was

regarded is beyond description.

Gradually emerging from the hummocks, a hearty cheer put an end to the

suspense that was almost agonizing, as a dog-sledge with three men was

seen to be approaching. A cheer in return was attempted, but so full

were our hearts that it resembled more a wail than a cheer.

It is impossible to describe our feelings as May and Moss came up, and

we received from them a warm and hearty welcome. We felt that we were

saved, and a feeling of thankfulness and gratitude was uppermost in our

minds, as we shook the hands of those who had hurried out to our relief

the moment that Parr had conveyed to them intelligence of our distress.

Those who a few short moments before were in the lowest depths of

despondency, appeared now in the most exuberant spirits. Pain was

disregarded and hardships were forgotten as numerous and varied

questions were asked and answered.

We heard with delight that they were only the vanguard of a larger

party, headed by Captain Nares himself, that was coming out to our

relief, and which we should probably meet on the following day. A halt

was immediately ordered, cooking utensils lighted up, ice made into

water, and we were soon all enjoying a good pannikin full of lime-juice,

with the prospect of mutton for supper!

After halting for the night Moss made a thorough medical inspection of

the whole party. His report was by no means cheering: all were more or

less affected, and some were in a very precarious condition. The

presence, however, of a medical officer amongst us restored confidence,

and acted as a powerful antiscorbutic!

On the following day we met the larger party coming out to our

assistance, and with their help arrived alongside the "Alert" on the

14th of June, seventy-two days after our departure from the ship.

What a contrast did that departure afford to our return!

Then, on that bright but cold April morning, all were in the highest

spirits, cheerful and enthusiastic, looking forward with confidence to a

comparatively successful issue to their undertaking--a fine, strong, and

resolute band.

Alas! how different was the return! Out of that party of fifteen men,

one had gone to his long home, eleven others were carried alongside the

ship on sledges dragged by a party despatched to their relief, and only

the remaining three were capable of walking.[2] Even they were scarcely

able to move one leg before the other, and were, on their return, placed

with the others under the doctor's hands. It was, indeed, a sad and

terrible calamity with which we had been afflicted, totally unexpected

and unparalleled in the annals of Arctic sledging experiences. On our

arrival alongside the ship, we were, of course, most warmly welcomed by

every soul on board; before entering Captain Nares called for three

cheers for our party, and then offered up thanks to Almighty God for

having preserved us through many dangers and privations, and for guiding

us back to our ship without further loss of life.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] John Radmore, chief carpenter's mate, and William Maskell, able

seaman.

[2] Radmore, Jolliffe, and Maskell.

CHAPTER XXV.

RETURN OF ALL THE SLEDGE TRAVELLERS.

"Now that the winter's gone, the earth hath lost

Her snow-white robes, and now no more the frost

Candies the grass, or calls an icy cream

Upon the silver lake or crystal stream,

But the warm sun thaws the benumbed earth."

CAREW.

The hearty welcome we received from one and all on board the "Alert,"

together with the indescribable pleasure of a warm bath, followed by a

champagne supper for those whom the doctor reported well enough to

indulge in such a luxury, made us all supremely happy; the feeling being

increased by the knowledge that our suffering companions were under the

tender care of kind and skilful hands, and that all responsibility

connected with their treatment had, so far as we were concerned, ceased.

Our late hardships and the anxiety we had felt regarding the safe return

of the party were almost forgotten, and were it not for the number of

cots hanging up outside the ward-room, and the row of beds along the

lower deck, each occupied by a sick man, we should almost have felt

inclined to regard our late sledging expedition as a dream from which we

had suddenly been awakened.

A more thorough break-up of a healthy and strong body of men it would be

difficult to conceive. Not only had the men engaged in the extended

party under my command been attacked with scurvy, but also those who had

been absent from the ship only for short periods, and some, who may be

said never to have left the ship at all, or if they did, only for two or

three days! The disease then could not be attributed to any special

circumstance connected with sledge travelling.

The seeds must have been sown during the time, nearly five months, that

the sun was absent, and we were in darkness. Fresh animal and vegetable

food is undoubtedly necessary for the preservation of health, and its

absence is the originating cause of scurvy. To this originating cause

all Arctic Expeditions have been equally exposed. The predisposing

causes of scurvy, which actually lead to an outbreak when the

originating cause exists, are the long absence of the sun, entailing

darkness, damp, intense cold, and bad ventilation. To these predisposing

causes our expedition was exposed for a very much longer period than any

other which sent out extended travelling parties. For this reason other

expeditions were exempt from scurvy while we were attacked. In short,

the different result was caused by the difference in latitude. As our

winter arrangements, and our scale of diet, both on board and while

travelling, were identical with those of former expeditions, the cause

of the outbreak could not have had anything to do either with diet or

winter routine. Lime-juice, though most useful in warding off for a time

and delaying an attack of scurvy, and as a cure, will not, with other

circumstances unfavourable, prevent an outbreak. This is the opinion of

all the best medical authorities; and our experience proved it to be an

undoubted fact. Some of our men had scurvy who never left the ship and

never ceased to take their daily rations of lime-juice, and others were

attacked who went away travelling at a time when daily rations of

lime-juice formed a part of the sledge dietary.[1]

In future, when an expedition winters in so high a latitude as 82° N.,

the prevention of an outbreak of scurvy must be secured by improved

measures for mitigating the predisposing causes.

Owing to the condition of the crew of the "Alert," Captain Nares

publicly announced, on the 16th of June, that on the return of the

sledge parties, he would endeavour to rejoin the "Discovery," and would

then send that vessel to England with all the invalids, and those unfit

to remain out a second winter. The "Alert" would pass her second winter

at Port Foulke, whence, in the ensuing spring, parties would be

despatched for the purpose of exploring Hayes Sound, and the adjacent

land. This work completed, that vessel also would return to England. The

reason that Port Foulke was selected as our future winter quarters was

the amount of animal life, principally reindeer, reported to abound in

that neighbourhood, and we also anticipated little or no difficulty in

breaking out in the following summer.

This resolution was undoubtedly a wise one, for it was certain that in

the then state of the ship's company of the "Alert," many lives would be

sacrificed if all the men were required to spend another winter in the

Arctic Regions. The idea of soon reaching England acted as a cure upon

those who were in the worst stage of scurvy, and conduced more to their

recovery than all the medicines and careful nursing that they received

from our painstaking and attentive doctor.

In the mean time great anxiety began to be felt regarding the safety of

the western sledge party under Aldrich. From the wholesale manner in

which the northern division had been afflicted, it was feared that they

also would not pass scathless.

Still we hoped they would not suffer to the same extent. Their route was

along the coast line, and it was expected that they would have been able

to supply themselves occasionally with fresh provisions, such as hares,

geese, and perhaps musk-oxen.

On the 18th of June, four days after the return of my party, May, with

three men and the dog-sledge, dragged by our remaining six dogs, left

the ship in order to obtain intelligence of Aldrich's party, and if

necessary to take him relief and assistance. The succeeding days were

anxious ones to all on board, and many were the trips taken to the

summit of Look-out-hill, in the hope of seeing the returning sledgers.

We could not disguise from ourselves the fact that unless they returned

quickly they would be placed in a very critical position. In a few days

they must be without provisions. This we knew. The temperature, too, had

reached freezing point, and frequently stood two or three degrees above

it, causing the surface snow to thaw, and therefore making the task of

dragging a sledge one of severe and unpleasant toil.

On the 21st the sun reached its highest northern declination, and every

day would bring us nearer to another winter; therefore we knew that to

effect our deliverance from the ice this year, it was necessary to get

our sledging parties on board as soon as possible, in order to prepare

the ship for sea, and to commence the operations requisite for cutting

her out of winter quarters.

The snow on the hills to the northward of us was rapidly disappearing;

but this might only be due to their southern aspect, for in our

immediate vicinity the snow appeared as deep as ever. Towards the latter

end of May the hills around the ship were perfectly bare; but the heavy

fall of snow, experienced by us during our return journey, had again

covered them as they were during the winter.

Water began to form in little pools on the floes near the ship, and

every sign betokened the approaching disruption of the pack. On the

23rd, a few king ducks, some Arctic terns, and skuas were seen hovering

about the land, and one or two specimens of the latter were shot--their

skins swelling our natural history collection, their bodies being

reserved for the sick.

On Sunday, June 25th, immediately after Divine Service, on ascending

Look-out-hill, to our very great delight we observed the wanderers

struggling through the hummocks some six or seven miles off. Hurrying

down to communicate the good news, a relief party was speedily formed,

and by midnight we had the very great satisfaction of receiving them all

on board. It was the old story repeated. All were suffering from scurvy,

and only Aldrich and two men were able to walk alongside the ship, one

of the latter being so bad that he was under medical treatment for many

weeks after his return on board.

Their absence from the ship extended over a period of eighty-four days,

during which they did very good service, having explored no less than

two hundred and twenty miles of new coast line. May found them near Cape

Joseph Henry, not far from the spot where he had before brought succour

to my party. They were then struggling bravely on, but were in a very

crippled condition. It is most fortunate he succeeded in reaching them

when he did. His cheery spirit and strong help did much to assist them,

and enabled Aldrich to bring his little party alongside their Arctic

home in undiminished numbers. It was a great relief to all on board to

know that every one had returned, that no stragglers were absent. So

great was the anxiety felt until all the sledging parties had arrived,

that the lot of those on board was hardly more enviable than that of the

travellers!

Our good ship was now converted into a regular hospital, and might

almost be said to be in charge of the medical officers; for those who

were not actually under treatment had to be placed at the disposal of

the doctor, so as to act as nurses, cooks, or attendants of some kind.

Perfect rest and careful nursing were the most essential requisites for

a complete restoration to health. Spenser must have had the recovery of

similar wayworn and stricken travellers in his mind when he wrote--

"Now when their wearie limbes with kindly reste

And bodies were refresht with dew repast."

The medical staff were unremitting in their ceaseless attention to their

patients, and it was to their untiring watchfulness that we owed the

complete recovery of our sick.

Much had to be done to get the ship ready for sea; but, for some time,

only a few officers and _three_ men could be employed in any work

connected with these preparations, the remainder being engaged entirely

with their duties to the sick. The principal work that had to be done,

before the ice broke up round the ship, was to get on board and stow

away all our powder, besides the provisions and stores that had been

landed before the winter. The housing had long been taken down, and the

upper deck had been partially cleared of snow, so that daylight was once

more admitted through the skylights and illuminators. It is a curious

fact connected with those who were for a long period absent from their

ship, that the hair on their faces became perfectly bleached, until in

fact it was nearly white. The loss of colour was gradual, and, although

noticed, was never alluded to, each one imagining that his companion's

hair was turning grey from the effects of hardship and anxiety! It was

only after our return to the ship that those possessing beards and

moustaches discovered the change that had occurred. The colour returned

in the same gradual manner that it had disappeared. We all suffered a

loss of hair from the head; but this may easily be attributed to our

sealskin caps, and other head-dresses, which were constantly worn.

After the long use of moccasins, it took us some time to get accustomed

to leather boots, which we were obliged to wear on account of the sludgy

state of the surface of the floes and the land. With a temperature some

degrees below freezing point, nothing is more comfortable or better

suited for travelling over the pack than a good pair of moccasins.

The return of the sledge travellers was celebrated, on the 29th of June,

by the best dinner we could afford to put on the table. As our

printing-press had long been dismantled, a written _menu_ was given to

myself and Aldrich as the leaders of the two extended sledge parties. A

beautiful sketch of the highest position reached was drawn by Moss, the

following being as near as possible a fac-simile:--

[Illustration: "Marco Polo." Lat. 83° 20´ 26´´ N.]

MENU.

Potage olla Podrida.

Petits Pâtes d'Homards. Fricassée de Pégouse et Sardines.

Rognons aux Champignons saucés dans Attrapez-en-haut.

Rissoles à la Tomato.

Mâchoire de Boeuf. Jambon au Champagne.

Petits Pois. Carottes. Ognons. Pommes de Terre.

Tourte de Pêches.

Compote de Blancmange et Rhubarbe Fou. Pouding en Marmelade.

Pains rôtis aux Anchois.

Fromage. Liqueurs. Dessert.

Café noir.

H.M.S. "Alert." _29th June, 1876._

On the reverse side of the bill of fare were the following verses

composed by Pullen for the occasion. It is needless to add that they

were not only appreciated, but that they found a response in every

breast:--

Welcome home to the wished-for rest,

Travellers to north and travellers to west!

Welcome back from bristling floe,

Frowning cliff and quaking snow!

Nobly, bravely the work was done;

Inch by inch was the hard fight won.

Now the toilsome march is o'er,

Welcome home to our tranquil shore.

Rough and rude is the feast we bring;

Rougher and ruder the verse we sing.

Not rough, not rude are the thoughts that rise

To choke our voices and dim our eyes,

As we call to mind that joyous sight

On an April morning cold and bright,

When a chosen band stepped boldly forth

To the unknown west and the unknown north;

And we from our haven could only pray--

"God send them strength for each weary day!"

He heard our prayer; He made them strong;

He bore their stalwart limbs along;

Planted their sturdy footsteps sure;

Gave them courage to endure.

Taught them, too, for His dear sake,

Many a sacrifice to make:

By many a tender woman's deed

To aid a brother in his need.

And safe for ever shall He keep

In His gentle hand the two who sleep.

His love shall quench the tears that flow

For the buried dear ones under the snow.

And we who live and are strong to do,

His love shall keep us safely too:

Shall tend our sick, and soothe their pain,

And bring them back to health again.

And the breath of His wind shall set us free,

Through the opening ice to the soft green sea.

Captain Nares had hinted that, in the present condition of the men, and

supposing also that those of the "Discovery" were in the same state, he

would not be justified in allowing even one ship to remain another year

exposed to the rigours of an Arctic winter and to the same causes that

had led to the recent outbreak of scurvy. We were prepared for this

announcement; for we well knew that to remain out a second winter,

although there were many of us ready and eager to do so, would simply be

to sacrifice many valuable lives for no object; for we could not

possibly expect to reach a higher northern latitude, or even to extend

our explorations much farther to the westward, although the whole force

of the expedition should be confined to the one direction. In deciding

to return to England, Captain Nares showed great moral courage, and

exercised a sound and wise judgment, in the opinion of all his officers.

On the Sunday following the return of Aldrich's party, a special

thanksgiving was offered up to Almighty God for our safe return, and

prayers were also said for the speedy recovery of our sick comrades.

On the 1st of July, on the usual monthly medical examination being held,

only ten men out of our fine ship's company were reported in a fit state

for work, and some of these were convalescents! The invalids, however,

thanks to the doctor's assiduous care, were improving slowly but surely.

The thaw had by this time commenced. The snow was soft and wet in the

valleys, small rivulets were already meandering through the ravines and

gorges, whilst the summits of the mountains were covered with brown

patches that the wind and thaw combined had left bare. Little tufts of

the beautiful purple saxifrage dotted the sides of the hills over which

we walked, bringing forcibly to our minds the wild flowers of our own

dear country, and creating a longing desire to behold them once more.

Footprints of animals, notably musk-oxen, were occasionally observed;

but although these traces appeared fresh, they were evidently those of

the preceding autumn, which, having been covered with snow and frozen

hard during the winter, had thus been perfectly preserved.

On the 5th of July, however, we were so fortunate as to shoot three

musk-oxen within three or four miles of the ship, and on the following

morning another fell a victim to the prowess of our sportsmen. This was

indeed a God-send, for without fresh meat the recovery of our sick would

be long and tedious. The actual amount of food obtained from these

animals was at the average rate of 120 lbs. from each. The dexterity

with which the beasts were operated upon after death would have done

credit to the most accomplished butchers. Our first dish of liver and

bacon at breakfast was, it is needless to say, done full justice to--the

only fault being an insufficiency in amount.

Fresh provisions were indispensable for the restoration of the invalids

to health. Shooting parties were, therefore, organized amongst the

officers, and the whole country for a radius of many miles was well

scoured in search of game. These shooting parties were very enjoyable,

especially to those who, like myself, had been engaged on one of the

prolonged sledging expeditions--the contrast being very great. No

anxiety, little or no responsibility, careless of time, and oblivious of

everything save our own pleasure and convenience. Sleeping when we felt

tired, and having our meals when we felt hungry, the night the same as

the day, the sun at midnight being as bright as at noon, free from all

cares, intent only on sport, the time passed in a serene and delightful

manner, and we were truly sorry when the time came to relinquish our

gipsying life for a more civilized one on board.

On one of these shooting tours I was away from the ship, accompanied by

a few choice spirits, for fourteen days. During that time we succeeded

in obtaining a couple of musk-oxen, and several brent geese, which were

a welcome addition to the fresh meat already obtained for the sick on

board the ship. What delightful little meals we used to cook for

ourselves, each one taking his turn, and vying with the others in his

endeavours to make his dishes excel those of his predecessor!

On one occasion we had for breakfast the livers and gizzards of thirteen

geese served up with a little bacon, these being the perquisites of the

sportsmen. In the enjoyment of such luxuries it is not surprising that a

return to the ship, and our everlasting Australian and New Zealand beef

and mutton, was not hailed with delight.

All this time the thaw had been rapidly progressing, the tops of the

hills were bare, and the ravines were rendered almost impassable from

the mountain torrents that dashed down towards the sea, gaining strength

and volume as they neared their outlets. These had to be crossed by the

shooting parties, the water reaching up to our waists, and flowing with

such force as nearly to carry us off our legs. As for change of

clothing, we had none; but on reaching our tents we would get into our

sleeping-bags and leave our wet clothes outside to dry; the temperature

at this time being about 40°. A warm supper, with a pannikin of hot tea,

followed by a glass of grog, soon made us forget the discomforts of the

past in the enjoyment of the present.

[Illustration: BRENT GOOSE AND EIDER DUCKS.]

Some of the scenery, about five or ten miles in the interior, was

extremely picturesque. The spot that we selected for our camp was on the

borders of a lake that formed one of a chain extending to the south

westward. Some of the hills surrounding these lakes were beautifully

carpeted with the pretty little purple saxifrage, a _draba_, a

_potentilla_, and other wild flowers, while the valleys were covered

with patches of luxuriant vegetation, consisting of grasses and

delightfully soft moss. Altogether the aspect of the surrounding country

afforded a striking contrast to what it was but a few short weeks back,

when still wrapped in its wintry garb.

On our return to the ship on the 24th of July, we were glad to hear

that our invalids were progressing favourably, and the convalescents

regaining strength. It was also a source of great gratification to us to

find a broad stream of water forming outside our protecting floe-bergs,

and extending from Point Sheridan to as far south as we could see. This

was a very agreeable and unexpected surprise. Active preparations were

at once made to release the ship from her icy prison. All stores and

provisions were re-embarked, instruments were brought on board and

carefully packed up and put away, boats were hoisted up, the screw

lowered, and the engines reported in good working order. Strict orders

were issued that no one was to be absent from the ship, on any pretence,

for a longer period than four hours without express permission. Any day

might see our release! Anxious eyes were constantly directed towards the

pack, which was now acted upon both by wind and tide, drifting north and

south as it felt their influences.

A large cairn, fully ten feet high, was erected on the summit of "Cairn

Hill," in which was deposited a record stating briefly what had been

accomplished by the expedition, and giving a list of the officers and

men of both ships. To this document each of the former attached his

signature. Will this ever be disturbed by our fellow-men?

Strenuous exertions were made by means of powder to blow up the ice

between the ship and the channel of water that almost tantalized us by

its existence, and so clear a passage by which we could effect our

escape. Countless torpedoes, containing from 1 to 50 lbs. of powder,

were used to accomplish this object, and many hours of hard labour were

expended in the same endeavour. At length, on the morning of the 31st

of July, our exertions were crowned with success, and great was the

excitement on board when hurried orders were issued to raise steam with

all despatch and to prepare for sea! A fresh south-westerly wind had

blown the pack off the shore, leaving a clear channel of water extending

as far as could be seen to the southward.

By 7 A.M. the ship was free and afloat, and at eight o'clock the colours

were hoisted, and we succeeded, without much difficulty, in steaming

clear of the prison that had for eleven long months so securely held us

in its icy fetters.

Who can describe the feelings experienced by all on board the "Alert" on

again hearing the long-silent throbbing of the engines, and knowing that

the ship was once more in motion?

Yet a slight pang of regret was felt at leaving the barren, sterile

coast, off which we had passed so many happy days, and we could not but

feel grateful to the kind floe-bergs which had, during that time,

protected us so well from "ye merciless yce."

FOOTNOTE:

[1] As soon as it was possible to use the lime-juice in the form in

which it was supplied to the expedition (that is, in jars or bottles)

all sledge parties were invariably supplied with it as a daily

ration.

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE RETURN VOYAGE IN THE ICE.

"Let our trusty band

Haste to Fatherland,

Let our vessel brave

Plough the angry wave."

THORHALL'S _Saga_.