_Europe_, there are 1. Flamencos, bigger than Turkeys, their Feathers of
a white and scarlet Colour, of which the Natives make Ornaments, and
their Legs are so long that they walk thro’ Lakes and Ponds. 2. The
Child Bird, so call’d, because they look like a swadled Child, with its
Arms at Liberty: They are very good Meat. 3. Airones, so much valued
for the Feathers, to make Tufts, that formerly, they say, every Feather
upon their Heads cost 2 Reals. These Birds are rare. There are others
call’d Garcolos, whose Feathers are generally us’d by Soldiers. 4.
Voycas, from whose Notes the _Indians_ pretend to foretel Death,
Sickness, or other Misfortunes; the Feathers on their Breasts are of a
deep scarlet Colour, and the rest brown. 5. Pinguedas, their Body is of
the size of an Almond; they feed upon Flowers, and shine like polish’d
Gold, mix’d with green; the Males have a lively Orange Colour, like Fire
on their Heads, and the Tails of those Birds are a Foot long, and 2
Inches broad. 6. Condores, which are white as Ermin; their Skins are
extreme soft and warm, and therefore us’d as Gloves. They have abundance
of Ostriches, and Variety of Hawks in this Country.
_Ovalle_ comes next to treat of their Beasts. He says, they had no Cows,
Horses, Sheep, Hogs, House-Cats, nor common Dogs of any sort, Goats,
Asses, or Rabbits, till they were brought hither by the _Spaniards_, but
now all these are increas’d to a wonderful Degree by the Richness of
their Country and Pasture, so that one Cow frequently yields 150 lb
Weight of Tallow. _Herrera_ says, that when the _Spaniards_ came first
hither, a Horse was commonly sold for 1000 Crowns, but now they are so
plenty that they send them yearly to _Peru_. The most remarkable
Animals, which are not common with us, are, 1. Their Sheep, mention’d
before, shap’d like Camels, tho’ not so large: The Natives us’d them for
Ploughing and Carriage, before they had _European_ Cattle: Their upper
Lips are slit, with which they spit at those who vex them, and wherever
their Spittle falls, it causes a Scab. They govern’d them by a kind of
Bridle put thro’ their Ears, and they would kneel like Camels, to take
on their Burden. 2. Wild Goats, which very much resemble those Sheep,
but are all of a red clear Colour, so very swift that they out-run
Horses, and are never to be tamed. They feed in great Herds, and are
hunted by Dogs, which easily catch the young ones, that are excellent
Meat. The Flesh of the old ones, dried and smoaked, is reckon’d the best
of its kind. These Creatures, especially the oldest, have Bezoar Stones,
in a Bag under their Belly. Our Author says, he brought one of those
Stones to _Italy_, which weigh’d 32 Ounces, and was as perfect an Oval
as if it had been form’d by a Turner; he gave the _Indian_ who found it
70 Pieces of 8 for it.
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
Their most remarkable Trees, besides what are common to _Europe_, are 1.
The Cinnamon Tree, so call’d, because the Bark resembles Cinnamon, in
such Plenty, that they cover their Houses with them: They keep their
Leaves all the Year, and resemble the _Italian_ Lawrel Royal. 2. The
Guyac Tree grows in the _Cordillera_, is as hard and heavy as Iron: The
Decoction is good against many Diseases. 3. The Sandal Tree, that is
very odoriferous, a Preservative against infectious Distempers, and
therefore us’d by the Priests when they visit the Sick. 4. The Maguey,
whose Leaves are admirable against Burnings; the Fruit is like
Myrtle-Berries, and of an excellent Relish. 5. The Quelu, of whose Fruit
they make a very sweet Drink. 7. Iluigan, the _Spaniards_ call it
_Molde_, ’tis of the Shape and Colour of Pepper: It grows on a small
Tree, and makes an agreeable Liquor, coveted by those of Quality. 8. The
Myrtilla which grows on the Mountains, from Lat. 37. and upwards:
_Herrera_ says, its Fruit is a common Good to the Natives, not unlike a
Grape, and of this they make a Wine that exceeds all other Liquors. ’Tis
of a bright gold Colour, will bear more Water than any other Wine,
chears the Heart, and never offends the Stomach, but increases Appetite.
The Vinegar made of it exceeds all other sorts. Our Author adds, that
their Cypress, Cedar and Oak Trees are extraordinary good.
He comes next to the Islands of _Chili_. The first are those of _Juan
Fernandez_, already describ’d. The second are the Islands of _Chiloe_,
which lie about Lat. 43, and form an Archipelago of 40 Islands. He says
the Nature of the Climate is such, that it rains almost all the Year, so
that only Maiz or such other Grain can ripen here, as need little Sun.
The chief Diet of the Inhabitants is the Root _Papas_, which is larger
here than any where else. They have excellent Shell-fish, very good
Poultry and Hogs, some Beeves and Sheep. The Capital of this Country is
the City of _Castra_, which lies in the chief Island, and is garrison’d
by the _Spaniards_. Here they have great Store of Honey and Wax, and
some Gold Mines on the Coast. Their chief Manufacture is Clothing for
the _Indians_, and they have vast Woods of Cedar Trees of a prodigious
size, with the Planks of which they drive a great Trade to _Chili_ and
_Peru_. 3. The Islands of _Chonos_, in Lat. 45. but of little Use,
because of the excessive Rains which drown the Soil. 4. The Fine Island,
which lies almost in the same Latitude with _Val Paraiso_ and _St.
Jugo_: It has a safe Harbour for Ships, where they may ride in 20 or 30
Fathom Water. The _Spaniards_ say ’tis a very beautiful Island, abounds
with Trees, wild Boars, and other Game, and excellent Water; and there’s
Plenty of Fish on the Coast. 5. The Island of _Mocha_, where the
_Dutch_, under _Spilberg_, found a very generous Reception by the
Natives, who furnish’d them with Plenty of Sheep, and other Provisions,
in exchange for Clothes, Axes, _&c_. The North side of it is plain and
low, but the South side rocky. 6. The Island of _St. Maria_, 13 Leagues
S.W. from the City of _Conception_, and 3 from _Arauco_: It is very
fruitful and temperate, lies about Lat. 37, and is well inhabited. 7.
The Islands of _Pedro de Sarmiento_, so call’d, because he discover’d
them, when in Pursuit of Sir _Francis Drake_. They are about 80 in
Number, and lie about Lat. 50. so that we suppose them to be those now
call’d _The Duke of York’s Islands_, which lie a little to the Northward
of the Straits of _Magillan_.
[Sidenote: _Sailing towards the Island of Guam._]
Our Author comes next to _Guio_, the third Quarter of _Chili_, which
lies on the other side of the _Cordillera_, towards the East. ’Tis
divided into several Provinces, and quite differs in Temperature from
_Chili_. The Summer is excessive hot, and the Inhabitants so annoy’d
with Bugs and Muskettos, that they lie abroad in their Gardens and
Yards. They have almost perpetual Thunders and Lightnings, and are
mightily infested with poisonous Insects: These are the bad Qualities of
the Country, to compensate which, the Soil, in many places, if possible,
exceeds that of _Chili_ in Fruitfulness; the Crops are richer, the
Fruits larger, and of a better Taste, because of the greater Heats. They
have Store of Corn, Wine, Flesh, and all the Fruits, Roots, and Herbs of
_Europe_, with large Plantations of Olives and Almonds. The Cold is not
so sharp in Winter as that of _Chili_, and the Air much clearer, so that
the Season is then very temperate: they have great Quantities of large
excellent Trouts, and other River Fish. Their peculiar Fruits are, 1.
Algaroba, of which they make a Bread so sweet, that Strangers can’t eat
it. They supply _Tucuman_ and _Paraguay_ with Figs, Pomgranates, Apples,
dry’d Peaches and Grapes, and excellent Wine and Oil. _Ovalle_ says,
That in his time there were rich Mines of Gold and Silver discover’d
here, which were reckon’d to be better than those of _Potosi_, and that
in short it had all Necessaries for Life in as great abundance as any
other Country, and in general is very healthful. The Provinces of
_Tucuman_ and _Paraguay_, which bound this Country we have already
describ’d.
_Jan. 10._ I now go on with my Journal, being on our Departure from
_California_, and returning to _Great Britain_. I shall not trouble the
Reader with every Day’s particular Transactions in this long and tedious
Passage, but only take notice of such Occurrences as are worth remark,
and to satisfy the Curious, shall subjoin a particular Table of each
Day’s Run, with the Latitude, Longtitude and Variation betwixt Cape _St.
Lucas_ on _California_, and _Guam_, one of the _Ladrones_ Islands. We
resolved to keep an exact Account of the Distance and Variation not
being certainly known to us from any former Voyagers.
_Jan. 11._ We weigh’d from Port _Segura_ last Night, but were becalm’d
under the Shore till the 12_th_ in the Afternoon, when there sprung up a
Breeze, which soon run us out of sight of the Land. We took our
Departure from Cape _St. Lucas_, which bore N. by E. at 12 a Clock,
distant about 15 Leagues. We were forc’d to go away with little or no
Refreshment, having but 3 or 4 Fowls, and a very slender Stock of
Liquor, which we got out of the _Batchelor_. Several of our Men were in
a weak Condition, besides my self, Mr. _Vanbrugh_, and the rest that
were wounded. We were forc’d to allow but 1 Pound and half of Flower,
and 1 small Piece of Meat to 5 in a Mess, with 3 Pints of Water a Man
for 24 Hours, for Drink and Dressing their Victuals. We struck down 10
of our Guns into the Hold, to ease the Ship; for being out of the way of
Enemies, they are altogether useless betwixt this and the _East Indies_.
On the 16_th_ the _Batchelor_ made a Signal to give us some Bread, they
having found a good Quantity of Bread and Sweet-meats aboard her, but
little of Flesh-kind: We had 1000 Weight of Bread for our Share, the
_Dutchess_ as much, and the _Marquiss_ 500 Weight; in lieu of which we
sent back to the Prize 2 Casks of Flower, one of _English_ Beef, and one
of Pork, they having but 45 Days Provision aboard in Flesh. This Morning
_Thomas Conner_, a Boy, fell overboard, but the Launch being a-stern, we
cut her Moarings, and took him up just as he was tired with Swimming,
and ready to sink.
On the 26_th_ in the Morning the Water was very much discolour’d, at
which being surprized, we immediately sounded, but found no Ground. We
spoke with the _Dutchess_, and agreed to go away W.S.W. till we got into
the Lat. of 13°, because our _Spanish_ Pilot told us it was dangerous
going in 14, by reason of Islands and Shoals, where a _Spanish_ Vessel
was lost some time ago, ever since which the _Manila_ Ship, in her
Return from _Acapulco_, runs in Lat. 13. and keeps that Parallel till
they make the Island of _Guam_.
On the 28_th_ the Steward missing some Pieces of Pork, we immediately
search’d, and found the Thieves, one of ’em had been guilty before, and
forgiven, on promise of Amendment, but was punish’d now, lest
Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow this bad Practice;
Provisions being so short, and our Run so long, may prove of ill
consequence. I order’d ’em to the Main Jeers, and every Man of the Watch
to give ’em a Blow with a Cat of Nine-tails, and their Messmates being
privy to the Theft, were put in Irons.
_Feb. 1._ We buried one _Boyce_, betwixt 40 and 50 Years of Age, whom we
brought from _Guiaquil_, where and in other Parts of _New Spain_ he had
been a Prisoner above 7 Years, since he was taken in the Bay of
_Campeachy_.
On the 5_th_ a Negro we named _Deptford_ died, who being very much
addicted to stealing of Provisions, his Room was more acceptable than
his Company at this time. On the 6_th_ we spoke with the _Dutchess_; I
was for augmenting the Mens Allowance in Meat, since we had such a
favourable Gale, which was like to continue; but Capt. _Courtney_
objected against it, alledging that if we miss’d _Guam_, we should all
be starved; so we deferr’d it a Week longer. We have had very bad luck
in fishing hitherto, having took only one Albicore since we came from
Cape _St. Lucas_.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island of Guam._]
On the 11_th_ I agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to continue a W. by S.
Course till we get clear of the Rocks call’d the _Bartholomews_, which
are laid down in 13° and a half; but the Distance of them being
variously computed, makes us the more cautious, and keep a constant good
Look-out. On the 13_th_ the _Spanish_ Pilot we took in the _Batchelor_
died; we kept him, thinking he might be of use to us, if he recover’d of
his Wounds; but he was shot in the Throat with a Musket-ball, which
lodg’d so deep, the Doctors could not come at it. On the 14_th_ we
agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to give half a Pound of Flower or Bread
more to a Mess. That same Day, in Commemoration of the ancient Custom in
_England_ of chusing _Valentines_, I drew up a List of the fair Ladies
in _Bristol_, that were any ways related to or concern’d in the Ships,
and sent for my Officers into the Cabbin, where every one drew, and
drank the Lady’s Health in a Cup of Punch, and to a happy Sight of ’em
all; this I did to put ’em in mind of Home. On the 17_th_ I was troubled
with a swelling in my Throat, which incommoded me very much, till this
Morning I got out a Piece of my Jaw Bone that lodg’d there since I was
wounded. Our Ship began to make more Water, so we clapt on a new Bonnet
where we took the old one off; but after many fruitless Attempts, were
forc’d to keep one Pump continually going, every two Men in the Watch
taking their Posts once an Hour; which Labour, with the want of
sufficient Food, make our People look miserably.
On the 18_th_ we threw a Negro overboard, who died of a Consumption and
Want together. Our Men began to be very much out of order, and what adds
to their Weakness is our continual Pumping, nor can we pretend to make
any further Addition to their Allowance.
On the 25_th_ _Tho. Williams_, a _Welch_ Taylor, died; he was shot in
the Leg at engaging the 2_d_ _Manila_ Ship, and being of a weak
Constitution, fell into a Dysentery, which kill’d him. On the 26_th_ we
caught a Couple of fine Dolphins, which were very acceptable to us,
having had but very indifferent Luck of Fish in this long Passage.
On _March_ the 3_d_ we buried a Negro call’d _Augustine_, who died of
the Scurvy and Dropsy. We agree to give 6 Negroes the same Allowance as
five of our own Men, which will but just keep those that are in health
alive.
On the 10_th_ we made Land, being the Island _Serpana_, which bore N.W.
distant about 8 Leagues. The _Dutchess_ made another Island to the
Westward, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues; the latter they
took to be the Island _Guam_, so we clapt upon a Wind, and stood for it.
_March 11._ This Morning we had sight of both Islands, the Northermost
bearing N.N.W. distant about 7 Leagues, and the Body of the Westermost
W.S.W. 5 Leagues. The _Spaniards_ say there is a great Shoal between
these Islands, but nearest to _Serpana_. We ran along the Shore, being
satisfied it was the Island of _Guam_, from whence there came several
flying Prows to look at the Ships; they run by us very swift, but none
would venture aboard. At Noon the Westermost part of the Island bore
West, and at the same time we made a small low Island joining to _Guam_,
with a Shoal between it and _Guam_; the Island appear’d green and very
pleasant, off of it there runs a Spit of Sand to the Southward, but
keeping it a good Birth from you as you near it, there’s no Danger,
being gradual Soundings to the Shoal. After we were clear of it we
sprung our Luff, and stood in for the Harbour, which lies mid-way
betwixt this and the North part of the Island. There came heavy Flaws of
Wind off Shore, sometimes for us, and at other times against us; but we
got to an Anchor in the Afternoon in 12 Fathom Water, about half a Mile
off Shore, where there was a little Village. The small Island to the
Southward bore South of us, distant about 3 Leagues, and another small
one to the Northward bore N. N. W. about 2 Leagues. The Necessity of our
stopping at these Islands to get a Refreshment of Provisions, was very
great, our Sea Store being almost exhausted, and what we had left was
very ordinary, especially our Bread and Flower, which was not enough for
14 Days at the shortest Allowance. In order to recruit quietly, we
endeavour’d to get some of the Natives aboard that were in the Prows, to
keep ’em as Hostages in case of sending any of our Men to the Governour:
One of ’em, as we were turning into the Harbour with _Spanish_ Colours,
came under our Stern. There were 2 _Spaniards_ in the Boat, who asked
what we were, and from whence we came? Being answer’d in _Spanish_, that
we were Friends, and came from _New Spain_, they willingly came aboard,
and ask’d if we had any Letter to the Governour? We had one ready, but
before we could get it signed by all the Commanders, there came a
Messenger from the Governour, who demanded the same Account of us. We
immediately sent him away with 2 of our Linguists, detaining one of the
_Spaniards_ till they return’d. The Letter was thus:
_S I R_,
[Sidenote: _At the Island of Guam._]
_We being Servants to Her Majesty of_ Great Britain, _and stopping
at these Islands in our Way to the_ East Indies, _will not molest
the Settlement, provided you deal friendly by us. We will pay for
whatever Provisions and Refreshments you have to spare, in such
manner as best agrees with your Conveniency, either in Money, or
any Necessaries you want. But if after this civil Request you deny
us, and do not act like a Man of Honour, you may immediately expect
such Military Treatment, as we are with ease able to give you. This
we thought fit to confirm under our Hands, recommending to you our
Friendship and kind Treatment, which we hope you’ll esteem, and
assure your self we then shall be with the strictest Honour_,
_Your Friends and humble Servants_,
To the Honourable Governour of the Island of _Guam, March 23. 1709_
W. Rogers.
S. Courtney.
E. Cooke.
_March 11._ In the Morning we and the _Dutchess_ mann’d our Pinnace, and
sent her ashore with a Flag of Truce, where they were entertained
curteously by the Natives, who promis’d to supply us with such
Provisions as they could spare, provided the Governour would give ’em
leave. About Noon our Linguist return’d, and brought with him 3
_Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour, who in answer to our Letter sent
another, expressing all Readiness imaginable to accommodate us with what
the Island afforded, and that he had sent those Gentlemen to treat with
us. I immediately sent for Capt. _Dover_, _Courtney_, and _Cooke_, &c.
being not able to stir out of the Ship, and desir’d they would come and
consult with me how to act.
_March 13._ This Morning we had 4 Bullocks, 1 for each Ship, with some
Limes, Oranges, and Cocoa Nuts. Our Misunderstandings at _California_
have been very much augmented since by our Want of Provisions, one
Ship’s Company being jealous the other had most and best; but now being
arriv’d at a Place of Plenty, we are all indifferently well reconciled,
and an Entertainment was provided aboard the _Batchelor_ for the
_Spanish_ Gentlemen, where most of our Officers appointed to meet. I
being not able to move my self, was hoisted in a Chair out of the Ship,
and also out of the Boat into the _Batchelor_; there we had a good
Entertainment, and agreed, that on Thursday next a Representative for
each Ship should wait upon the Governour, and make him a handsome
Present for his Civility and Readiness to supply us.
_March 15._ This Morning we had another Entertainment aboard the
_Marquiss_, where I likewise went in the same manner as before.
_March 16._ This Morning our Pinnace went with several of our Officers
to accept of the Governour’s Invitation ashore, who received them with
all imaginable Friendship and Respect, having near 200 Men drawn up in
Arms at their Landing, and the Officers and Clergy of the Island to
conduct them to the Governour’s House, which was a very handsome Seat,
considering where we are: They entertain’d them with at least sixty
Dishes of several sorts, the best could be got on the Island, and when
they took their Leaves, each fired a Volley of Small Arms. They
presented the Governour, according as we had agreed, with 2 Negro Boys
dress’d in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 6 Pieces of
Cambrick, which he seem’d wonderfully pleas’d with, and promis’d to
assist us in whatever lay in his Power.
_March 17._ This Day we got our Dividend, being about 60 Hogs, 99 Fowls,
24 Baskets of _Indian_ Corn, and 14 Bags of Rice, 44 Baskets of Yams,
and 800 Cocoa Nuts.
_March 18._ There was an Entertainment aboard us to day, where we had
most of our Officers, and 4 _Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour. I
made ’em as welcome as Time and Place would afford, diverting ’em with
Musick, and our Sailors Dancing till Night, when we parted very
friendly. We got some more Bullocks on board, being small lean Cattle,
but what we gladly accepted of; each Ship had 14 in all.
_March 20._ This Morning each Ship had 2 Cows and Calves more, being the
last we are like to get. We had a Meeting on board the _Marquiss_, where
’twas agreed to make a handsome Present to the Governour’s Deputy, who
had the Fatigue to get our Provisions together, wherein he us’d all
possible dispatch. We gave him and the rest of the Gentlemen what they
esteem’d double the Value of what we received of them, which they
certify’d under their Hands, and that we had been very civil to them. We
also gave them the like Certificate, sign’d by all our Officers, to shew
to any _English_ that might have occasion to recruit there, and parted
very friendly. Having finish’d that Affair, it was agreed, that we
should steer from hence a West and by South Course to go clear of some
Islands that lie in our way, and then thought it proper to steer
directly for the South East part of _Mindanao_, and from thence the
clearest Way to _Ternate_. It was also agreed, that our Ship being very
leaky, I should deliver to Capt. _Courtney_ one Chest of Plate and
Money, to be put on board the _Dutchess_.
[Sidenote: _The Island of Guam Described._]
_March 21._ At Break of Day we hoisted our Colours, and fired a Gun for
our Consorts to unmoar. In the meantime, with the Consent of the other
Officers I put an old _Spaniard_ ashore, call’d _Ant. Gomes Figuero_,
whom we took in the 1_st_ Bark in the _South Seas_, and design’d to
carry him to _Great Britain_, to condemn all our Prizes took there; but
he being now in all appearance not likely to live, we agreed to dismiss
him, he giving us a Certificate that he saw us attack and take several
Prizes, all Subjects to _Philip_ V. King of _Spain_, &c. I gave him some
Clothes and other odd things to help him in his Sickness, then put him
ashore to the Deputy Governour, and the rest of the _Spanish_ Officers,
who gave us a Certificate, that they receiv’d such a Person.
I shall here give a Description of the Isle of _Guam_.
_The Island of_ Guam _Describ’d_
This Island is about 40 Leagues round; the Anchoring Place is on the W.
Side, and about the Middle there’s a large Cove, with several Houses
built after the _Spanish_ Mode, with Accommodations for the Officers and
Crew of the _Acapulco_ Ship, the Settlement being made here on purpose
for that Ship to recruit at, in her Way to _Manila_. There are about 300
_Spaniards_ on this and the Neighbouring Islands; most of the Natives
are their Converts. They told us they have 8 Fathers, 6 of whom teach
School, besides performing their Offices as Clergymen. They have also
Schools taught by _Mullattoes_ and _Indians_, who have learn’d the
Language, so that most of the Natives understand _Spanish_. The
_Spaniards_ inform me, that there’s a Range of Islands from hence to
_Japan_. Among which there are several abound with Gold, and they were
now building a small Vessel to discover them, in order to get a Trade.
The Island of _Guam_ it self abounds with Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Musk
and Water Melons, which were brought hither by the _Spaniards_. The
Orange Trees thrive very well here. The Island is full of Hills and
Dales, and Streams of good Water. They have Plenty of Cattle, but small,
poor, and generally white. The _Indico_ Plant grows wild in such
Abundance, that were they industrious, and had Coppers to boil it up,
they might have great Quantities of that Commodity; but being so remote
and out of the Way of Trade, they make no Use of it, nor do they improve
any thing but what contributes to their present Subsistance; and having
that, they are easie. Money is of so little Use, and so scarce among
them, that they could not raise 1000 Dollars in the whole Island to
purchase Commodities from us, which they would gladly have done. Here
are about 200 Soldiers, who receive their Pay from _Manila_ by a small
Ship once _per Ann._ This Ship brings them Cloaths, Sugar, Rice, and
Liquor, for which she carries back most of the Money again. This has
made them of late sow Rice in their Valleys, and make other
Improvements. They abound with Hogs, which are the best Pork in the
World, because they feed altogether on Cocoa-Nutts, and Bread-Fruit,
which are plentiful here; and were not the _Spaniards_ slothful, they
might have most Necessaries of their own Growth for the Maintenance of
Life.