_Chili_, are not so full of _Indians_ as formerly; for many of ’em are
gone to remote Parts, and live in Colonies by themselves, to avoid the
Slavery and Taxes impos’d on them by the _Spaniards_, for they were
oblig’d to pay from 8 to 14 Dollars _per Ann._ _per_ Head to the King,
which had it been duly collected and faithfully paid, would have
amounted to the greatest Poll Tax in the World; but ’tis now lessen’d by
the removal of so many Natives as abovemention’d, and the Impoverishment
of the rest, who are sensible enough of their Oppression, but are so
dispirited, that they can do nothing to assert their Liberty, and they
are besides kept under by the Artifices of the Priests.
The _Spaniards_ here are very profuse in their Clothing and Equipage,
and affect to wear the most costly things that can be purchas’d; so that
those who trade hither with such Commodities as they want, may be sure
to have the greatest Share of their Wealth.
Chili _describ’d_.
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
I come next to the Kingdom of _Chili_, which lies nearest to those who
shall think fit to attempt a Trade from _England_ into the _South Sea_.
Father _Ovalle_, a Native of this Country, and Procurator for it at
_Rome_, agrees with our Maps, that it lies farthest South of any part of
_America_ on that call’d the _South_ or _Pacifick Sea_. He bounds it
with _Peru_ on the North, the Straits of _Magellan_ on the South,
_Paraguay_, _Tucuman_, and _Patagonia_ on the East, and the _South Sea_
on the West. He begins it at S. Latitude 25, and extends it to Lat. 59,
which is near 500 Leagues. The Breadth of it varies, and the broadest
Place from East to West he makes about 150 Leagues, tho’ _Chili_
properly so call’d is not above 20 or 30 Leagues broad, from the Chain
of Mountains named _Cordillera_ to the _South Sea_; but when the King of
_Spain_ divided _America_ into particular Governments, he added to
_Chili_ the vast Plains of _Cuio_, which are of an equal Length, and
twice as broad as _Chili_ it self. The Country in general _Ovalle_
places in the 3_d_, 4_th_ and 5_th_ Climates; the longest Day in the
3_d_ is 13 Hours, and in the 5_th_ above 14.
The first _European_ who took possession of it was _Don Diego
d’Almagro_, a _Spaniard_, in 1535. He is said to march hither from
_Peru_ by Order of the King of _Spain_, with a Body of _Spanish_ Troops
and 15000 _Indians_ and Blacks commanded by some _Indian_ Princes, who
had submitted to the _Spaniards_. I shall not trouble the Reader with
the particular History of the _Spanish_ Conquests till they reduced this
Country, which they may find at large in _Ovalle_, _Herrera_, and
others; but shall only say in general, that it was not totally in
subjection to the _Spaniards_ till the Year 1640, when the Inhabitants
submitted to the Crown of _Spain_, on Condition that they should not be
given in Property as Slaves. The _Spaniards_, who sufficiently
experienc’d the Valour of this People, treat them with more Civility
than they do the rest of the _Americans_, on purpose to keep them in
Obedience, and for the most part they have submitted to the Church of
_Rome_.
The _Sansons_ say that _Chili_, in the Language of the Country,
signifies Cold, which is so excessive in the Mountains call’d _Sierra
Nevada_, a part of the _Cordillera_, that it freezes Men and Cattle to
Death, and keeps their Corps from Putrefaction; so that _Almagro_ lost a
great many of his Men and Horses as he past those Mountains. But the
Vallies toward the Sea are very healthful, the Climate temperate, and
the Soil excellent and fruitful, tho’ with some difference, according as
it lies nearer or further from the Equator; but the Coasts are subject
to strong Gales of Wind.
The Country is divided into 3 Quarters, and those 3 into 13
Jurisdictions. The Quarter of _Chili_ proper extends from the River
_Copiapo_ to that of _Maule_, and is hotter than _Spain_. The 2_d_
Quarter call’d Imperial, reaches from the River _Maule_ to that of
_Gallegos_, and much resembles the Climate of _Spain_. The Proximity of
the Mountains on one side, and of the Sea on the other, makes it colder
than otherwise it would be; but it has Warmth enough to make it one of
the best Countries in _America_. The Valley of _Copiapo_ is so fruitful,
that it frequently yields 300 for one single Measure, those of _Guasco_
and _Coquimbo_ fall very little short of it, and that of _Chili_ proper
is so excellent, that it gives Name to the whole Country by way of
Eminence.
I come now to give a brief View of what _Ovalle_, a Native, says to it
in general.
He tells us, that in _Chili_, properly so call’d, _viz._ the Country
betwixt the Mountains and the Sea, the Soil and Climate exceed those of
any part of _Europe_ in Goodness, by the Confession of the _Europeans_
themselves: He says it is like the best part of _Europe_ in every thing,
except the Opposition of the Seasons, it being Spring and Summer in the
one, when it is Autumn and Winter in the other; but in the Vallies the
Heat and Cold are not so excessive as in _Europe_, especially from Lat.
36, or thereabouts to Lat. 45, so that neither the Heat of the Day nor
the Cold of the Night can be complain’d of, from whence it is that the
Inhabitants make no difference between the Summer and Winter in their
Bedding and Clothes. He adds, that they are not troubled here with
Lightning, and seldom hear Thunder, except at a great distance. They
have no Storms of Hail in the Spring, and seldom above 2 or 3 rainy Days
together in the Winter, after which the Sky is serene without the least
Cloud. The North Winds bring the Clouds and Rain, and the South Winds
speedily make all clear. They have no poysonous or ravenous Creatures,
except a small sort of Lions, which sometimes prey on their Flocks, but
always fly from Men; nor are these Lions numerous, there being only a
few of them in the Woods and Desarts. He observes as a peculiar Property
of the Air of _Chili_, that no Bugs will live in it, tho’ they swarm in
_Cuio_ on the other side of the Mountains. From the whole he infers,
that there is no Country in _America_ so agreeable to _European_
Constitutions as _Chili_, and Air and Provisions are so like their own,
but rather better.
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
The Spring begins about the Middle of our _August_, and lasts till the
Middle of _November_; then the Summer holds to the Middle of _February_,
the Autumn continues to the Middle of _May_, and the Winter from thence
to the Middle of _August_. During this Season the Trees are depriv’d of
their Leaves, and the Ground is cover’d with white Frosts, which are
dissolved about 2 hours after the Sun rises. The Snow falls seldom in
the Vallies, but in great Quantity in the Mountains, from whence it is
melted in the Summer, and fructifies the Vallies and Plains with
Rivulets. In the Spring the Fields are adorn’d with beautiful Flowers of
all Colours and sorts, and of an admirable Scent, from whence they
distil a fine Liquid called Angels Water, which makes a noble Perfume.
The choicest Flowers and Plants that we cultivate grow wild there; they
have Groves of Mustard Trees higher than a Man on Horseback, and the
Birds build their Nests in them. They have many Physical Plants and
Herbs, with which their _Indian_ Physicians perform wonderful Cures,
when the Patients are despair’d of by our _European_ Doctors, but they
are very shy of communicating those Secrets. Fruits and Seeds brought
hither from _Europe_ thrive very well, but those of _Mexico_ and _Peru_
don’t. They have all our sorts of Fruit in such abundance, that every
one may take what they please; so that none is sold, except a sort of
extraordinary large Strawberries, which they cultivate. They have Oats,
Wheat and Maiz in such plenty, that they are seldom troubled with Want
of Grain. Their Pastures are so rich, and their Cattle of all sorts so
numerous, that they don’t value the Flesh, but salt the Tongues and
Loins, and send ’em to _Peru_ with the Hides and Tallow, which is a
great Branch of their Trade. They have Store of noble and generous
Wines, both white and red; their Vines are larger, and their Clusters of
Grapes much bigger than any in _Europe_. They have also plenty of
Olives, Groves of Cocoa Trees of several Leagues long. Almond-trees, and
such Store of Silk grass, which they use instead of Hemp, that they
furnish all the Coasts of the _South Sea_ with Cordage for their Ships;
they have also great Quantities of Annise and Cummin-seed, Salt, Flax,
Wool, Leather, Timber, Pitch, Amber, _&c._ So that according to
_Ovalle_, Merchants may trade from hence to other Parts in the _South
Sea_, and especially to _Lima_, from 100 to 300 _per Cent._ Profit, of
which I have also been informed by our Prisoners. Though they have
abundance of Mulberry-trees, they breed no Silk-worms; so that the
Ladies, who are extravagant in their Apparel, impoverish the Country by
purchasing the richest Silks, tho’ they might easily have enough of
their own. They have plenty of Bees, yet have their Wax from _Europe_,
for want of Industry to improve their own, and they have Pepper and
other Spice from the _East Indies_, tho’ they have a kind of Spice of
their own, which might very well supply them. He adds, that the
Herbage, Fishing, Hunting, Wood for Fuel and Timber, and Salt Mines, are
here in common, so that every one may take what they please. They make
little use of their Mines of Lead and Quicksilver; for _Peru_ has enough
of the latter to purify their Silver. _Ovalle_ says the Gold Mines are
so many, that from the Confines of _Peru_ to the Straits of _Magellan_
there is no part of the Country without ’em; but they are not so much
follow’d as in _Peru_, and they don’t so much apply themselves to the
Silver Mines, because those of Gold are wrought with less charge; their
Silver is dug from hard Rocks, ground to Powder in their Mills, and then
refin’d with Quicksilver, which is laborious as well as expensive;
whereas they have no other trouble with the Gold than to wash the Earth
from it; yet sometimes they follow the Veins of Gold through Rocks, when
they have hopes that they will grow larger, as they frequently do, and
one of these Veins is often enough to enrich the Discoverers. Gold is
not dug here in such Plenty, since the War betwixt the _Spaniards_ and
_Araucanos_; but the Natives wait for the Winter Rains, which wash it
down from the Mountains, into Rivers, Ponds, _&c._ when the Women go
into the Water, feel out the Grains with their Toes, and make up as much
as supplys their present Necessities, as our Author says, but to me this
appears a very odd Way to get Gold. He tells us that he sent one of
those Grains to _Seville_, where being touch’d, it was found to be 23
Carats fine, without any manner of Purification. Most of the Bells and
great Guns us’d in _Peru_, are made of the Copper of this Country.
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
He comes next to give an Account of the Chain of Mountains, named
_Cordillera_, from his own Observation, and what he has read in Authors:
He says they run from N. to S. from the Province of _Quito_ to the
Straits of _Magellan_, which is above a Thousand Leagues, and accounts
them the highest Mountains in the World; they are generally 40 Leagues
broad, and intermix’d with Abundance of habitable Valleys: These
Mountains form 2 Ridges, the lowermost is cover’d with Woods and Groves,
but the higher barren, because of the excessive Cold and Snow on them.
The most remarkable Animals in these Mountains are, 1. that Species of
Hogs which have their Navels on their Backs, call’d Pecarys, these go in
great Herds, with each their Leader, and till he be kill’d, ’tis not
safe for Hunters to attack them, but when he falls, they immediately
disperse. 2. Wild Goats, whose Hair is as soft as Silk, and much us’d
for fine Hats. 4. Their Sheep call’d Guanacos, shap’d like Camels, but
of a far less Size, with Wool so fine that it is preferr’d to Silk for
Softness and Colour. He adds, that the ancient _Yncas_, or Princes, cut
two Roads through those Mountains, and if we may believe _Herrera_,[148]
one of them was pav’d for 900 Leagues from _Cusco_ to _Chili_, ’twas 25
Foot broad, and at every 4 Leagues, there was a noble Structure, and at
each half League Couriers to relieve one another, in carrying Messages
from the State. He says, there are still a sort of Inns on this Road,
where Travellers find all Necessaries; but the Paths into the Mountains
are so narrow, that a single Mule can scarce pass them. The Ascent
begins at the very Shore of the Sea, but that which is properly call’d
the Mountains, requires three or four Days Journey to the Top of them,
where the Air is so very piercing and cold, that he found difficulty to
breath, when he pass’d them, so that he and his fellow Travellers were
obliged to breath quicker and stronger than ordinary and to apply their
Handkerchiefs to their Mouths, to break the extreme Coldness of the Air.
_Herrera_ says, That those who pass them from _Peru_ are troubled with
Reachings and Vomitings. _Ovalle_ adds, That there are Meteors upon
those Mountains sometimes so high in the Air, that they resemble Stars,
and at other times so low, that they frighten the Mules and buz about
their Ears and Feet. He says, on the Top of those Mountains they can’t
see the Country below for Clouds, tho’ the Sky over their Heads is clear
and bright, and the Sun shines with admirable Beauty. When he pass’d the
highest Part of that which is properly call’d the _Cordillera_, he found
no Snow, tho’ in the beginning of Winter, whereas, in the lower Parts,
’twas so deep, that the Mules could scarce travel. He supposes the
Reason why there was no Snow on the Top is, that it reaches above the
middle Region of the Air. There are 16 Vulcanos in this Chain of
Mountains, which sometimes break out with dreadful Effects, cleave the
Rocks, and issue great Quantities of Fire, with a Noise resembling
Thunder. I refer to our Author for the particular Names and Places of
those Vulcanos. He doubts not but there are many rich Mines among those
Mountains, tho’ the Natives industriously conceal them, and make it
Death to discover them, which has defeated several Attempts of that
Nature by the _Spaniards_. The Natives have no occasion for those Mines
themselves, because they have Plenty of Provisions, which is all they
desire, and they are afraid that such Discoveries will occasion the
_Spaniards_ to dispossess them, or to make them work in the Mines as
Slaves. He concludes this Head with an Account that very rich Mines were
discover’d at the Foot of those Mountains on the side of _Cuio_.
Those Mountains of the _Cordillera_ are passable only in Summer, or in
the Beginning of the Winter. There are frightful Precipices, and deep
Rivers, at the sides of the narrow Passes, which frequently occasions
the Loss of Mules and Travellers. The Streams run with such Violence,
and so far below the Roads, that to look at them turns ones Head. The
Ascents and Descents are so steep, that they are difficult to pass on
Foot, but the Irksomeness of the Way is alleviated by the beautiful
Cascades which the Water naturally forms as it falls from the Rocks and
Mountains; and in some of the Valleys the Water springs up to a great
Height, like Fountains made by Art, amongst odoriferous Plants and
Flowers, which make an Agreeable Prospect. All these Streams and Springs
are so very cool, that a Man can’t drink above 2 or 3 Sips at once, nor
hold his Hand in them above a Minute. In some Places there are hot
Springs, good against many Distempers, and leave a green Tincture in the
Channels thro’ which they run. One of those Rivers, call’d _Mendoca_,
has a natural Bridge of Rock over it, from the Vault of which there
hangs several Pieces of Stone, resembling Salt, which congeal like
Icecles, as the Water drops from the Rock, and are form’d into several
Shapes and Colours. This Bridge is broad enough for 3 or 4 Carts to pass
a-breast. There’s another Bridge near this, call’d the _Yncas_, laid
over by Art, betwixt 2 Rocks, as some say, but our Author thinks it is
the Work of Nature: It is so very high from the River, that he could not
hear the Stream, which runs with great Rapidity, and though it be a
large River, it appear’d like a Brook when he look’d down from the
Bridge, which he could not do without being struck with Horror.
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]
He comes next to describe the particular Rivers which run from these
Mountains; but I shall only mention the chief of them; and tho’ most of
them don’t run above 30 Leagues, yet some of them, towards their Mouths,
are navigable by Ships of the greatest Burthen. The first is that which
rises in the Confines of _Peru_, about S. Lat. 25. ’tis call’d the
River of Salt, because ’tis so salt that it can’t be drank, and
petrifies what’s thrown into it. 2. _Copiapo_, which rises in Lat. 26.
runs 20 Leagues from E. to W. and forms a Bay and a Harbour, at its
Entrance into the Sea. 3. _Guasco_ rises in Lat. 28. and forms likewise
a Bay and Harbour. 4. The River of _Coquimbo_, which rises in Lat. 30,
forms a noble Bay and a Port, with beautiful Myrtles, and other Trees on
the Bank, that make a noble and a pleasant Grove. 5. _Aconcagua_, a
large deep River that rises about Lat. 33. runs thro’ several fruitful
Valleys. 6. _Maypo_ rises about Lat. 33 and a half. It is so rapid, that
it admits no Bridge but one made of Cables; it enters the Sea with so
much Force, that its Waters form a Circle, and are distinguished a great
Way. It is brackish, noted for excellent Trouts, and the Sheep which
feed on its Banks, afford Mutton of a curious Relish. There are several
other Rivers which fall into it; the first is, that of St. _Jago_, alias
_Mapocho_; ’tis divided into several Streams, to water the District of
St. _Jago_, which sometimes it over-flows: Not far from the City it
sinks under Ground, and rises again in a Grove, about 2 or 3 Leagues
distant. 2. The River _Poangue_, its Water is extraordinary clear and
sweet, and flowing thro’ Veins of Metal, very much helps Digestion. It
runs for several Leagues under Ground, fructifies the Valley which lies
over it, and produces excellent Corn and Melons. The Banks of this River
are adorn’d with beautiful Trees. 3. The Rivers _Decollina_ and _Lampa_,
which unite together within 10 or 12 Leagues off their Rise, and form
the noted Lake of _Cudagues_. It is so deep, that great Vessels may sail
in it, is about 2 Leagues long, and its Banks cover’d with Trees that
are verdant all the Year. It abounds with excellent Trouts and Smelts,
which are a great Conveniency to the City of St. _Jago_. 7. _Rapel_ is
nothing inferior to _Maypo_, enters the Sea about Lat. 34. and a half,
and receives several other rapid Streams. The adjacent Country has
excellent Pastures for fattening of Cattle. 8. _Delora_ rises in Lat. 34
three quarters, and is exactly like the former. 9. _Maul_, a great
River, which rises in Lat. 35. and bounds the Jurisdiction of St.
_Jago_. The Natives call all the Country betwixt those Rivers,
_Promocaes, i.e._ a Place of Dancing and Delight, which our Author says
is very just, for he never saw a more pleasant Country, nor one better
furnish’d with Provisions of all sorts. The _Spaniards_ have many noble
Farms in these Parts. Near the Mouth of this River, there’s a Dock for
building of Ships, and a Ferry belonging to the King for the Conveniency
of Passengers. 10. _Itata_; ’tis 3 times as large and deep as the
_Maul_, and enters the Sea about Lat. 36. In most Places they pass it on
Rafts, and in some it is fordable. 11. _Andalien_, a River which runs
slow, and enters the spacious and pleasant Bay of _Conception_, at Lat.
36 three quarters. There’s another small River, which runs through the
middle of the City of _Conception_, a little above which it falls from a
high Rock, and gives the Inhabitants an Opportunity to form all sorts of
Water-works from it, among pleasant Groves of Lawrels, Myrtles, and
other odoriferous Plants. 12. _Biobio_, a famous River, which enters the
Sea, in Lat. 37. ’tis the largest in _Chili_, and is from 2 to 3 Mile
broad at its Mouth. Our Author says its Waters run thro’ Veins of Gold,
and Fields of Sarsaparilla, which make them very wholesom, and good
against several Distempers. This River is the Boundary betwixt the
_Indians_ who are Friends to the _Spaniards_, and those who are their
Enemies, and make frequent Incursions upon them. This obliges the
_Spaniards_ to keep many Garrisons in those Parts, but the Natives trust
to their Mountains. This River swells so much in the Winter, that it
becomes unpassable, and occasions a Cessation of Arms on both sides.
These People, says _Ovalle_, have given the _Spaniards_ more trouble
than all the other Natives of _America_; so that they are forced to
maintain 12 Forts, well provided with Men and Cannon, besides the City
of _Conception_ and _Chillam_, to over-aw the Natives. 13. _Imperial_, a
pleasant River, which falls into the Sea, about Lat. 39. after having
receiv’d many other Rivers, and among ’em two which run into the famous
Lake of _Buren_, where the _Indians_ have an impregnable Fortress. 24.
_Tolten_, about 30 Miles from the River _Imperial_, is deep enough for
great Ships, where it enters the Sea. 15. About 8 Leagues farther, the
River _Quenale_ enters the Sea, and is capable of small Barks. 16.
_Valdivia_, so called from _Pedro de Valdivia_, one of the Conquerors
and Governors of _Chili_, who built a Port and City, near the Mouth of
it, where great Ships may come up about 3 Leagues from the Sea. This
River opens to the North, and over-against the City lies the pleasant
Island of _Constantine_, with two others; the River is navigable on both
sides of the Island, but deepest on the South side. 17. _Chilo_, which
rises from a Lake at the Foot of the _Cordillera_, where there are Baths
good against the Leprosy and other Distempers. Our Author says so
little of the Rivers on the East side of the _Cordillera_, that we pass
them over.
_Ovalle_ gives an Account of many remarkable Fountains, both hot and
cold, good against most Distempers; but I shall not insist on them. He
says, they have many Sea Lakes or Bays, which bring great Profit to the
Owners, because their Fisheries are more certain than those of the Sea;
and furnish most part of the Lenten Fair to the Inhabitants, and in the
hot Season abundance of Salt.
He adds, that in the Valley of _Lampa_, near St. _Jago_, there’s an
Herb, about a Foot high, resembling Sweet _Basil_. In Summer it is
cover’d with Grains of Salt, like Pearl, which is more savoury, and has
a finer Flavour than any other Salt. Our Author comes next to treat of
the Fertility of the Coast, which, he says, among other Fish produces
Shell-Fish in greater Quantities, larger than any where else, and 1.
Oisters, valuable both for their Meat and Pearls. 2. Choros, a fine Sort
of Shell-fish, which also breed Pearl. 3. Manegues, which have 2 round
Shells, the inside of which resembles Mother of Pearl. In short, he
says, the Sea throws up Shell-fish, in such Quantities, upon some Parts
of the Coast, that Ships may be loaded with them, and their Shells are
of such Variety of Colours and Shapes, that our _European_ Virtusos
might from hence have a curious Collection, whereas the _Indians_ only
burn them for Chalk. There are other Sorts of Fish on these Coasts, some
of which they call Sea-Stars, others Suns and Moons, because they
resemble those Planets, as they are usually painted, which are common
elsewhere, but not so large as here. These Fish reduc’d into Powder, and
drank in Wine, are an infallible Remedy against Drunkenness, and
frequently us’d for that end, because it creates an Abhorrence of Wine
in those who drink it, says our Author. He adds, that great Quantities
of Amber are found on this Coast, particularly, the grey sort, which is
the best. They have all other sorts of Fish, common to us in _Europe_,
besides others, peculiar to themselves.