Reninghelst, turn to the left along the Rue des Pretres, and then turn
to the right into the Rue Boescheppe, opposite the church of St.
Bertin._
_Pass in front of the_ =Diocesan College=, the roof of which was badly
damaged by shell-fire. _In the Place Bertel turn to the right._
_Cross the river by a recently restored bridge, then skirt, on the left,
the communal cemetery_, where the graves have been destroyed by the
shells, and _cross the Hazebrouck-Ypres railway_ (_l. c._).
[Illustration: LA CLYTTE ROAD AND THE MONT ROUGE]
On the left is an Allied cemetery containing 500 to 600 graves. On the
right against the sky is =Cats Hill=. Numerous machine-guns shelters can
still be seen along the road. _Cross a narrow-gauge railway_, which
serves a military station on the right.
_The road is first undulating, then descends to_ =Reninghelst=. _Here
leave on the left the church_, which has not greatly suffered. In the
churchyard near by, there are a few French soldiers' graves. _At the
cross-roads, turn to the left, then 200 yards further on, at_
=Zevecoten=, take the road on the right to =La Clytte=.
The further we advance the greater the devastation of the ground
becomes.
_At the first houses of Clytte Hamlet, turn to the right._ The German
rush of 1918 was broken before this village.
After the capture of Kemmel Hill, a violent enemy attack on April 27
broke down before the desperate resistance of the French 28th Infantry
Division (Madelin) and the British 9th Infantry Division.
=Kemmel= is seen on the left, and =Scherpenberg= in front.
_Pass the church_ (photo, p. 111). _The road turns to the right beyond
the last houses, and gradually climbs the slopes of_ =Scherpenberg=
(altitude, 340 feet). The side of this hill is almost perpendicular, and
in it are numerous remains of shelters.
[Illustration]
The narrow road which led to the top was completely destroyed. The
ascent can, however, be made on foot.
In spite of all their efforts, the Germans failed to reach Scherpenberg
in their offensive of 1918. Their efforts to outflank the Flanders Hills
on the north broke down before the resistance of the French 39th
Infantry Division (Massenet) on April 26, 27 and 28, 1918.
_At the next fork turn to the right into the village of_ =Westoutre=.
Here the road winds through the valley. The river on the left has, owing
to shell-fire, become a small lake. Westoutre suffered greatly in the
bombardments.
_Pass the Town Hall, then turn to the left in front of the church. The
road rises sharply, and winds round_ =Vidaigne Hill=. The many shelters
in the sides of the hill can plainly be seen.
_Behind the hill, leave the road leading to the French frontier, and
take on the left the road which first descends and then climbs the
slopes of_ =Rouge Hill=. From the plateau there is a splendid view
across the plains.
_Leave on the left the ruins of the Chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes._
_The road, rising rather stiffly, runs into the Bailleul Road. On
turning to the right, the first houses of_ =Locre= _village are
reached_.
[Illustration: RUINS OF LA CLYTTE CHURCH]
[Illustration: THE SLOPES OF SCHERPENBERG HILL]
[Illustration: VIDAIGNE HILL]
[Illustration: RUINS OF LOCRE AND ROUGE HILL]
Locre was the scene of terrific fighting during the German offensive
against the Flanders Hills in 1918. On April 19, 1918, it was taken by
the enemy after a daring advance by their Alpine Corps, which had
succeeded in reaching Kemmelbeek Valley. On the same day, the soldiers
of this picked corps continued their advance as far as the crossing with
the Westoutre road, 1 kilometre to the north of Locre; but here the
French dragoons, in an irresistible counter-attack, drove the Germans
back and recaptured Locre, leaving only the _Hospice_, to the south-east
of the village, in enemy hands.
[Illustration: LOCRE ROAD AT KEMMEL AND KEMMEL HILL]
[Illustration: KEMMEL CHURCH AND VILLAGE IN RUINS
_Photographed from the eastern slopes of Kemmel Hill_]
[Illustration: RUINS OF KEMMEL CHATEAU AND HILL]
[Illustration: KEMMEL HILL
_Photographed from the road to Kemmel at La Clytte, 500 yards from the
latter._]
_Beyond the ruins of the church, in the middle of a devastated cemetery,
turn to the left; then at the next fork, leaving some French graves on
the left, take the road on the right leading to_ =Kemmel Hill=.
This hill, the first of the Hills of Flanders, is famous for the battles
fought there in 1918. On April 17, 1918, the Germans had reached the
foot. On the 25th, they rushed to the attack, encircling and capturing
the hill, which was held by the French 30th Infantry Regiment. During
the next and following days French counter-attacks failed to dislodge
the enemy. It was only on August 30 that the Germans evacuated the hill;
on the 31st it was occupied by the British.
_Pass Burgrave Farm. At the foot of the hill (inaccessible to vehicles)
the road turns to the left._ Here the ground is completely churned up,
the bits of road being connected up by little bridges thrown across the
shell-holes. In the distance is seen the ruined church of Kemmel (photo,
p. 113). _On reaching the village, turn to the right, to visit the ruins
of the chateau_ (photo, p. 114), _then return to the fork and take the
road on the right_.
The road is hilly, as the photograph, taken 500 yards this side of the
crossing with the La Clytte road, shows. _Keeping straight along the
road by which he came, as far as Zevecoten, the tourist then returns
first to the left and then to the right._
_In the centre of_ =Reninghelst= _village, take the Neuve-Eglise road on
the left. At the fork in the road at_ =Heksken=, _turn to the right
towards_ =Poperinghe=. _Cross the river. At the crossing of the road
from Poperinghe to Boeschepe, turn to the left to visit the largest
cemetery in this region_ (shown on the Itinerary, p. 108), which
contains 20,000 to 22,000 graves The photograph gives but a slight idea
of the size of it.
[Illustration: FRAGMENT OF CEMETERY CONTAINING 20,000 GRAVES AT
BOESCHEPE, ON THE ROAD TO POPERINGHE]
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF CATS HILL]
_Retracing his steps the tourist takes the road which first skirts the
railway, and then crosses it (l. c.) to rejoin the
Poperinghe-Steenwoorde road. Take the latter on the left._ (See
Itinerary, p. 108.)
At the hamlet of Abeele there is a Belgian custom-house (visa of
"triptyque" or motor-car permit). The French custom-house is at
=Steenwoorde= (the third house to the right on entering). Usual
formalities.
_Opposite the custom office take I.C. 128 on the left, which, after
several turnings, leads to_ =Godewaerstelde=. _Leave the village on the
left._
[Illustration: THE CRUCIFIX AND ABBEY OF CATS HILL]
[Illustration: CATS HILL ABBEY]
[Illustration: DESTRUCTION OF THE CHAPEL CHOIR]
[Illustration: THE COURTYARD OF CATS HILL ABBEY AFTER THE BOMBARDMENTS]
_On the far side of the level-crossing the road rises, and the Abbey on
the top of_ =Cats Hill= _soon comes into view_.
There is a magnificent view from the wayside-cross on the plateau. Visit
the monastery, whose buildings suffered greatly from the bombardments.
_Pass in front of the cross and take the second road on the right, which
slopes down fairly quickly to the village of_ =Berthem=, _through which
the tourist passes_.
[Illustration: VIDAIGNE HILL AND NOIR HILL]
_In the hamlet of_ =Schaexnen=, _opposite the inn with the sign "Au
Vieux Schaexnen," turn to the left, passing in front of a small chateau
in the middle of a wood on the right. A plateau_--=Noir Hill=--_ploughed
up by countless shells, is reached shortly afterwards_.
_At the fork in the road turn to the right_ (the road on the left leads
back into Belgium).
_Go through the hamlet of_ =La Croix-de-Poperinghe=, _then at the next
fork take the road to_ =Bailleul= _on the right_. _At Bailleul leave the
lunatic asylum on the left._ The French custom-house is in the Rue
d'Ypres. (In June, 1919, there was as yet no corresponding office at
Locre in Belgium.)
Bailleul suffered terribly from the bombardments, most of the houses
being destroyed.
Bailleul was taken by three German divisions on April 15, 1918, as well
as Little Hill and the Ravelsberg, to the west of the town. But the next
day the German forces, who had orders to consolidate their success and
turn the chain of hills from the south, were rudely checked by French
divisions, rushed up to relieve their British comrades, and in three
days, thanks to the prompt and vigorous action of General Petain, they
were driven back.
_Have a look round the Grande Place before taking the Rue de Lille_ (N.
42) _on the left_. _At the Noveau-Monde cross-roads_, where there is an
important munitions depot with railway-station, _turn sharply to the
left, leaving Lille Hill on the left_.
_After twice crossing the railway_ (_l. c._) the Customs Barracks are
passed. The road passes over three more level-crossings, skirts the
frontier, crosses the railway, and then the Stilbecque stream. _Next
pass through_ =Nieppe= village--almost entirely demolished; _then over
the railway_ (_l. c._). _Cross the Lys by the Nieppe Bridge and enter_
=Armentieres=, _via the Rue de Nieppe_.
_At the cross-roads take Rue Nationale on the right, and follow the
tram-lines as far as the crossing of Rue de Lille with Rue de Marle.
Take the latter to the right, and cross the railway_ (_l. c._).
For particulars concerning Armentieres, see pp. 49--55, first Itinerary.
_Keep straight to_ =Bois-Grenier=, _turning to the right in front of the
ruined church_.
_Outside the village take the second road on the right to_ =Fleurbaix=.
_Pass the church, of which a few walls are still standing_ (photo
below), _then turn to the left beyond the Square into Rue de Quesnes_.
Numerous concrete shelters were built inside the houses.
_Near the British cemetery the road turns to the right, then to the
left, and enters_ =Laventie=. _Turn to the right in the Place de
l'Eglise, then to the left over a level-crossing near the station_.
[Illustration: DESTROYED CHURCH OF FLEURBAIX]
[Illustration: LAVENTIE CHURCH, RUINED BY THE BOMBARDMENTS]
_After several turnings the road runs past a small ruined chapel,
crosses a river, then turns to the right, and crosses the Lys. At the
first houses of_ =Estaires=, _100 yards beyond the bridge, turn to the
left, amid the ruins._
_Pass the ruined gasworks and follow the main street shown in the photo
below._ In the middle ground of this photograph are seen the walls of
the church, the steeple of which has fallen in.
[Illustration: ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE MAIN STREET OF ESTAIRES]
[Illustration: MERVILLE (_from old engraving_)]
_Leave on the left the Square, in which formerly stood the
Hotel-de-Ville_; its ruined belfry is now a mere heap of bricks and
stones.
_Beyond a German cemetery on the right, pass through_ =Neuf-Berquin=,
_after which, on turning to the left_, =Merville= comes into view.
[Illustration: MERVILLE CHURCH, AS THE GERMAN SHELLS LEFT IT
_Seen from the Rue des Trois Pretres._]
[Illustration: RUINS OF LESTREM CHURCH]
At the entrance is the cemetery, the area of which has been doubled by
serried rows of little wooden crosses, each marking a British grave.
If time can be spared (two or three hours) proceed as far as =Nieppe
Forest=, keeping straight on, and leaving Merville on the left.
[Illustration: LESTREM CHATEAU
(_Destroyed by the German bombardments._)]
[Illustration: REMAINS OF LOCON VILLAGE]
Contrarily to other forests in the battle area, Nieppe Forest did not
suffer greatly, although, like the others, it concealed munitions and
stores. (Note the numerous narrow-gauge rails lying along the roadside.)
The roads themselves bear traces of hastily constructed defence-works.
On the left, near the outskirts of the forest, a pathway leads to a
cemetery containing British soldiers' graves.
La Motte-au-Bois, lying in a clearing, suffered little. Its 17th century
chateau, which escaped destruction, can be reached by crossing the canal
over a temporary bridge, leaving on the right a small octagonal chapel
of no special interest.
_Return by the same road to_ =Merville=, _and pass through it_, taking a
glance at the ruins of the church on the right. _Cross the canal, the
Lys, and the railway near the station, and turn to the left immediately
afterwards._
_Follow the railway, then re-cross it. The road here runs parallel to
the canal. At the next fork leave on the left the road to the Gorgue;
turn to the right, cross the railway, and enter_ =Lestrem=. _Beyond the
bridge over the Lawe, pass the church, then turn to the right, and skirt
the grounds of an old ruined chateau._
This chateau--completely restored in 1890--was used by the Germans as an
observation-post, and subsequently blown up by them on April 10, 1918
(photo, p. 122).
On leaving Lestrem the road winds. On the left, broken fragments of
ironwork mark the site of the distillery, which provided a livelihood
for part of the working population of =La Fosse= village. The ruined
church is seen to the left, on the far side of the canal.
[Illustration: BETHUNE. THE CANAL AND SIDING (_Cliche LL._)]
_Go through the hamlet of_ =Zelobes=, which, like that of =Lobes=, was
razed to the ground.
_Pass through what was_ =Locon= village (photo, p. 123).
Lawe Canal, after running parallel to the road, turns and cuts it.
_Cross the canal by the temporary bridge._
A little further on, the road again follows the canal as far as the
entrance to =Bethune=.
_Cross the Aires Canal, pass the railway station on the left, then
through the horse-market to the Place de la Republique. Cross the latter
and take the Rue de Rivage to the Grande Place._
For four years the whole district just passed through, since leaving
Armentieres, was the scene of incessant fighting.
In October, 1914, it saw the close of the fighting which concluded the
"race to the sea," and the stabilising of the front here resulted in
more than six months' continuous fighting.
A little later, the Artois offensive of 1915 found an echo in local
operations for the possession of key positions like Festubert and
Neuve-Chapelle, giving rise to sanguinary struggles without decisive
result for either side.
Finally, in 1918, it was the scene of the third great German offensive
for the conquest of the Hills (see pp. 38--43.)
=Bethune=
The foundation in 984 of the Collegiate Church of St. Bartholomew, by
Robert I., ancestor of Sully, is the first mention of Bethune in
history. The town, owned in turn by the Counts of Flanders, the Dukes of
Burgundy, and the House of Austria, annexed to France at the Peace of
Nimegue in 1678, taken in 1710 by the Triple Alliance, was finally
restored to France in 1713 by the Treaty of Utrecht.
A fraternity, called the "Confrerie des Charitables," still survives.
Founded after the plague of 1188 by two blacksmiths, to whom St. Eloi
appeared in a vision, asking them to assist their fellow-countrymen who
were dying unsuccoured, it performed the burial rites of the dead.
During the Great War the town was intermittently bombarded for three and
a half years, but from the end of February, 1918, to April 21 the
violence of the shelling increased tenfold, and on the latter date the
civil population had to be evacuated, the battle having carried the
German lines within two miles of Bethune.
[Illustration: BETHUNE, _from an old engraving_]
On April 13--18 the bombardment became so intense that the town was
almost razed to the ground.
The officials and the miners of the district were mentioned in Orders of
the Day for their courage and endurance.
At first sight, the town does not seem to have suffered so much, but
this impression soon passes.
The Grande Place (photo, p. 126) where the chief beauties of this small
town were concentrated, is now a heap of bricks and stones.
The old houses have fallen in; only the facade of one of them (No. 44),
dating from the 16th century, remains, and even this one was severely
damaged and is now supported by wooden props.
Of the modern Hotel-de-Ville there remains only a small portion of the
facade (photo, p. 127), whilst the Savings Bank on the left is a
shapeless ruin.
The belfry, built in 1346 and restored forty years later, is still
standing, but the upper portion of it has disappeared, and the houses
which surrounded it have fallen in.
[Illustration: BETHUNE. THE GRANDE PLACE. _Before the War._ (_Cliche
LL._)]
Its tower is standing, as far as the upper part of the sun-dial, whilst
the four admirable gargoyles which project at the corners, and the
graceful curve of the pointed windows of its first storey, escaped
injury.
[Illustration: BETHUNE. THE GRANDE PLACE. _After the Bombardments_]
The remains of the spiral staircase leading to the top may still be
seen, but the 15th century wooden spire has gone.
[Illustration: BETHUNE. RUINS OF THE HOTEL-DE-VILLE]
This spire contained a peal of bells, one of which, dated 1576, was
called "La Joyeuse."
"La Joyeuse" is silenced for ever.
This peal gave its name to the street behind the belfry, which leads to
the Church of St. Waast (1533--1545), whose massive tower was more than
half-a-century later than the rest of the building.
_To leave the town, return from the Grande Place to the Place de la
Republique_ (in June, 1917, it was impossible to take the Rue d'Arras,
which is the direct road, all this part of the town being obstructed by
ruins).
[Illustration: RUINS OF ST. WAAST CHURCH]
_In the Place de la Republique take the Boulevard Victor-Hugo on the
right, and then Rue Marcelin-Berthelot, also on the right. At the
cross-roads take the Rue de Lille to the left._ The Faubourg de Lille
suffered severely from the bombardment. _Take N. 41 alongside the Aire
Canal._
[Illustration: BETHUNE. RUE D'ARRAS, BEFORE KULTUR'S BLIGHT FELL ON IT.
(_Cliche LL._) (_See below_)]
[Illustration: BETHUNE. RUE D'ARRAS--WHAT THE GERMAN SHELLS LEFT OF IT
(_see above_)]
[Illustration: DESTROYED BRIDGE ACROSS THE BASSEE]
For four years the fighting never ceased in this region. _Leave the
Festubert sector on the right._ Throughout the struggle, the Canadians
fought so bravely that one of their recruiting posters was dedicated to
the heroes of Festubert, with this inscription:
"Oui, vous avez raison, c'est hideux le carnage,
Oui, le progres blesse recule et se debat,
Notre siecle en fureur retourne au moyen age,
Mais sachons donc nous battre, au moins, puisqu'on se bat."
_At the crossing of N. 41 and 43 leave the latter on the right._
_Cross the Grande Rue d'Annequin._ From here, on the right, coalpit No.
9 can be seen, with its wrecked machinery in the air--a mass of twisted
ironwork.
_The ruined village of_ =Cambrin= _is next passed through. On the other
side of the level-crossing, leave on the right the badly damaged village
of_ =Auchy-lez-La-Bassee=. _The road now follows the canal._ After
crossing the railway (l. c.) vast heaps of broken railway trucks smashed
by the shells can be seen in the fields on the right. Further on are
eight or nine blockhouses which were formerly brick-kilns. _Turn to the
left, cross the railway, then the Aire Canal by the new suspension
bridge_ (beside the old one shown in the photograph) _and enter_ =La
Bassee=, _now a heap of ruins_.
La Bassee, an important centre standing at the junction of several roads
and railways, in the heart of the plain of Flanders, south-west of
Lille, was the objective of many desperate struggles during the war.
In October, 1914, the district of La Bassee was the scene of endless
conflicts between the Allied and enemy cavalry forces, the little town
finally remaining in the hands of the Germans.
A year later, the British offensive in Artois drove back the Germans
south of La Bassee, whilst to the north the positions of Neuve-Chapelle
and Aubers were bitterly disputed. However, the lines shifted but
little, and La Bassee still remained in the centre of the line of fire.
[Illustration: LA BASSEE, _from an old engraving_]
During the German offensive of 1918, the town again came inside the
German lines, but the enemy were driven out shortly afterwards, during
the Allied offensive that led to the Armistice and to the consummation
of victory.
_Go through the Rue d'Estaires_, in which there is a large and very high
armoured shelter that served as an observation-post. _Pass the ruined
church_ (photo, p. 132), _then turn to the right into the Grande Place_.
Inside a three-storied house, which later collapsed under the shell-fire
(photo, p. 132), there was a German observation-post of concrete, armed
with machine-guns.
_On leaving La Bassee continue along N. 41_, with its fine trees cut
down and left along the sides of the road. _Pass the first houses of_
=Illies= _village, on the left, and 100 yards further on, cross a large
avenue_ (_leading to the Chateau de Varneton_).
[Illustration: LA BASSEE. STREET CAMOUFLAGED BY THE GERMANS (_Note the
high poles on the left._)]
[Illustration: LA BASSEE. RUE D'ESTAIRES BEFORE THE WAR (_Compare with
photo below._)]
On the right, and connected with _N. 41_ by a small bridge, there is a
large German cemetery with a monument to the memory of the soldiers of
the XVth Regiment (Prinz Friedrich) (photo, p. 133).
_The road leads to_ =Fournes=, _the outskirts of which are crossed by
Rue Pasteur_. Pass an avenue of fine trees leading to the Chateau of
Comte d'Hespel, accidentally burned down.
At the cross-roads there is a bandstand erected by the Germans. A crude
painting on the back of the stand represents a tug-of-war between a
German and British, French and American soldiers, in which the German
wins apparently with ease. Italy, depicted as a monkey, is seen clinging
to the rope.
After turning to the right the road passes the large Gambert Boarding
School, which was severely damaged. Behind it is a large cemetery.
_Follow the road to the badly damaged village of_ =Beaucamps=, where
there are numerous concrete shelters in the houses. _At the cross-roads
turn to the left._ A wayside-cross, ten yards further on, indicate the
road. A short distance further on are the ruins of the Chateau de
Flandre, the basement of which, in reinforced concrete, was used as a
machine-gun emplacement.
[Illustration: LA BASSEE. RUE D'ESTAIRES IN 1919 (_Compare with photo
above._)]
[Illustration: LA BASSEE. ALL THAT REMAINS OF THE CHURCH]
The tourist next comes to what was =Radinghem=. _Beyond the ruined
church_ (photo, p. 133), _turn to the right past an armoured shelter,
which defended the road, pass under the railway, and at the hamlet of_
=La Vallee=, _beyond a chapel, turn to the right into_ =Ennetieres=.
_The road continues through the ruins of_ =Englos= _and_ =Haubourdin=.
[Illustration: LA BASSEE. CONCRETE OBSERVATION-POST BUILT BY THE GERMANS
INSIDE A HOUSE WHICH, LATER, COLLAPSED]
[Illustration: GERMAN CEMETERY ON THE RIGHT OF THE ROAD FROM LA BASSEE
TO TOURNES, 100 YDS. FROM ILLIES. (_See Itinerary, p. 108._)]
[Illustration: GERMAN FUNEREAL MONUMENT]
Haubourdin suffered comparatively little from the shells, but like all
the other occupied towns of France, it was subjected to exactions,
war-levies, deportations and pillage. The German soldiers, when relieved
from the Hindenburg line, had their rest-billets there. The church (of
no especial interest), the hospital (15th century), and a chapel built
in 1347, are still preserved.
_After passing through_ =Loos=, _return to_ =Lille=, _entering by the
Bethune Gate_.
[Illustration: RADINGHEM IN RUINS]
[Illustration: LILLE. THE EX-KAISER IN THE PLACE CORMONTAIGNE]
_For visiting Lille, see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: "Lille Before
and During the War."_
[Illustration: LILLE. THE COURTYARD OF THE BOURSE, WITH BRONZE STATUE OF
NAPOLEON I. CAST FROM CANNONS CAPTURED AT AUSTERLITZ]
[Illustration: LILLE, AFTER THE BOMBARDMENT OF 1914]
[Illustration: THE COLLAPSE OF A HOUSE ON THE RUE DE PARIS]
[Illustration: LILLE. ENTRY OF THE BRITISH 5TH ARMY ON OCT. 21, 1918]
[Illustration: KEMMEL HILL
Seen from the road to Warneton, at Neuve Eglise._]
THE BRITISH FORCES ENGAGED in the YPRES SECTOR
[Illustration: _Photo, F. A. Swaine, London._
VISCOUNT FRENCH OF YPRES,
K.P., G.C.B., O.M., G.C.V.O., K.C.M.G.]