CHAPTER XXI.

Indians' remarks on the Zoological Gardens--Their pity for

the poor buffalo and other animals imprisoned--Jim's talk

with a clergyman about Hell and the hyænas--Indians' ideas

of astronomy--Jim and the Doctor hear of the hells of

London--Desire to go into them--Promised to go--Indians

counting the gin-palaces (_chickabobboo-ags_)in a ride to

Blackwall and back--The result--Exhibition in the Egyptian

Hall--A sudden excitement--The War-chief recognises in the

crowd his old friend "Bobasheela"--Their former lives on

the Mississippi and Missouri--Bobasheela an Englishman--His

travels in the "Far West" of America--Story of their first

acquaintance--The doomed wedding-party--Lieut. Pike--Daniel

Boone and Son--Indians visit a great brewery--Kind reception

by the proprietors--Great surprise of the Indians--Immense

quantities of _chickabobboo_--War-dance in an empty

vat--Daniel commences Jim's book of the statistics of

England--Indians visit the Tunnel--Visit to the Tower--The

Horse Armoury--The Royal Regalia--Indians' ideas of the crowns

and jewels--"_Totems_" (arms) on the fronts of noblemen's

houses--Royal arms over the shops--Strange notions of the

Doctor--They see the "man with the big nose" again--And the

"great white War-chief (the Duke of Wellington) on horseback,

near his wig-wam."

Three or four of my particular friends had joined us in our visit

to the Zoological Gardens this morning, and amongst them a reverend

gentleman, whose professional character was not made known to the

Indians. He kept close to Jeffrey and the Indians all the way, and

his ears were open to the translation of everything they said. He was

not only highly amused at their remarks, but told me he heard enough

to convince him that lessons of morality, of devotion, and religion,

as well as of philosophy, might be learned from those poor people,

although they were the savages of the wilderness, and often despised

as such. Mr. Melody and I accompanied them to their rooms, and as we

came in when their dinner was coming up, we sat down and partook of

it with them. The Indian's mode is to _eat exclusively_ while he eats,

and to talk afterwards. We adhered to their rule on this occasion, and

after the dinner was over, and a pipe was lit, there were remarks and

comments enough ready, upon the strange things they had just seen.

As usual, the first thing was, to have a laugh at the Doctor for having

frightened the parrots; and then to reflect and to comment upon the

cruelty of keeping all those poor and unoffending animals prisoners

in such a place, merely to be looked at. They spoke of the doleful

looks they all wore in their imprisoned cells, walking to and fro, and

looking through the iron bars at every person who came along, as if

they wished them to let them out. I was forcibly struck with the truth

and fitness of their remarks, having never passed through a menagerie

without coming out impressed, even to fatigue, with the sympathy I had

felt for the distressed looks and actions of these poor creatures,

imprisoned for life, for man's amusement only.

Jim asked, "What have all those poor animals and birds done that they

should be shut up to die? They never have murdered anybody--they have

not been guilty of stealing, and they owe no money; why should they be

kept so, and there to die?" He said it would afford him more pleasure

to see one of them let loose and run away over the fields, than to see

a hundred imprisoned as they were. The Doctor took up the gauntlet and

reasoned the other way. He said they were altogether the happiest wild

animals he ever saw; they were perfectly prevented from destroying each

other, and had enough to eat as long as they lived, and plenty of white

men to wait upon them. He did not see why they should not live as long

there as anywhere else, and as happy. He admitted, however, that his

heart was sad at the desolate look of the old buffalo bull, which he

would like to have seen turned loose on the prairies.

The Roman-nose said he heard one of the parrots say "God dam." "So he

did," said Jim; "and who could say otherwise, when the Doctor poked his

ugly face so suddenly in amongst them? They know how to speak English,

and I don't wonder they say God dam."[20]

[20] No Indian language in America affords the power of swearing,

not being sufficiently rich and refined.

I here diverted their attention from the jokes they were beginning

upon the Doctor, by asking them how they liked the _chickabobboo_ they

got in the gardens, which they recollected with great pleasure, and

which they pronounced to have been very good. Mr. Cross had invited

the whole party to a private view, and after showing us, with great

politeness, what he had curious, invited us into one of his delightful

little refreshment rooms, and treated all to cold chickens, pork pies,

pastries, and champagne, which the Indians called _chickabobboo_; and

as he did not know the meaning of the word, I related the story of it,

which pleased him very much.

The Doctor made some laugh, by saying that "he was going over there

again in a few days, if he could find some strings long enough, to

measure the elephant and the bones of the whale, as he had got the

dimensions of the giant man." Jim told him "he had not got the measure

of the _giant man_--he had only measured the _giant woman_, and

getting scared, he only half measured her; and he was so much afraid

of women, that he didn't believe he could ever take the measure of one

of them correct, if a hundred should stand ever so still for him."

The Doctor smiled, and looked at me as if to know if I was going to

ask some question again. He was fortunately relieved at that moment,

however, by Mr. Melody's question to Jim, "how he liked the looks of

the hyenas, and whether he would like him to buy one to carry home

with him?" Jim rolled over on to his back, and drew his knees up (the

only position in which he could "think fast," as he expressed it;

evidently a peculiarity with him, and a position, ungraceful as it

was, which it was absolutely necessary for him to assume, if he was

going to tell a story well, or to make a speech); and after thinking

much more profoundly than it required to answer so simple a question,

replied, "Very well, very well," and kept thinking on. The Little Wolf,

who was lying by his side, asked him "what he was troubled about?--he

seemed to be thinking very strong." Jim replied to this, that "he was

thinking a great way, and he had to think hard." He said, that when he

was looking at the hyenas, he said to Jeffrey that he thought they were

the wickedest looking animals he ever saw, and that he believed they

would go to hell; but that the gentleman who came to the garden with

Mr. Melody[21] said to him, "No, my friend, none but the animals that

laugh and cry can go to heaven or to hell." He said that this gentleman

then wanted to know how he had heard of hell, and what idea he had of

it. He said, he told Jeffrey to say to him that some white men (_black

coats_) had told amongst his people, that there was such a place as

hell, very low under the earth, where the wicked would all go, and for

ever be in the fire. He said, the gentleman asked him if he believed

it? and that he told him he thought there might be such a place for

white people--he couldn't tell--but he didn't think the Indians would

go to it. He said, the gentleman then asked him why he thought those

poor ignorant animals the hyenas would go there? And he replied to him

that _Chippehola_[22] said "the hyenas live by digging up the bodies of

people after they are buried;" and he therefore thought they were as

wicked as the white people, who also dig up the Indians' graves, and

scatter their bones about, all along our country;[23] and he thought

such white people would go to hell, and ought to go there. He said he

also told the gentleman he had heard there were some hells under the

city of London, and that he had been invited to go and see them: this,

he said, made the gentleman laugh, and there was no more said: that he

had begun to think that this gentleman was a _black coat_, but when he

saw him laugh, he found out that he was not. "Just the time you were

mistaken," said Mr. Melody; "for that gentleman _was_ a clergyman, and

you have made a very great fool of yourself." "I will risk all that,"

said Jim; "I have wanted all the time to make a speech to some of them,

but the chiefs wouldn't let me."

[21] The reverend gentleman.

[22] Mr. Catlin.

[23] One of the most violent causes of the Indian's hatred of white

men is, that nearly every Indian grave is opened by them on

the frontier for their skulls or for the weapons and trinkets

buried with them.

The pipe, during these conversations, was being handed around, and

Jim's prolific mind, while he was "thinking fast" (as he had called

it), was now running upon the elephant, and he was anxious to know

where it came from. I told him it was from the opposite side of the

globe: he could not understand me, and to be more explicit, I told him

that the ground we stood upon was part of the surface of the earth,

which was round like a ball, and many thousands of miles around; and

that these huge animals came from the side exactly opposite to us. I

never could exactly believe that Jim, at the moment, doubted my word;

but in the richness of his imagination (particularly in his thinking

position) he so clearly saw elephants walking underside of the globe,

with their backs downwards, without falling, that he broke out into

such a flood of laughter, that he was obliged to shut out his thoughts,

and roll over upon his hands and knees until the spasms went gradually

off. The rest of the group were as incredulous as Jim, but laughed less

vehemently; and as it was not a time to lecture further on astronomy,

I thought it best to omit it until a better opportunity: merely

waiting for Jim's pencil sketch (and no doubt according to his first

impression), which he was then drawing, with considerable tact; and

with equal wit, proposed I should adopt as my "arms" or _totem_, the

globe with an inverted elephant.

Melody and I strolled off together, leaving the Indians in this

amusing mood, while we were agreeing that they were a good-natured

and well-disposed set of men, determining to take everything in the

happiest way; and that they were well entitled to our protection, and

our best energies to promote their welfare. We saw that they enjoyed

every thing that we showed them, with a high relish; and in hopes that

they might profit by it, and feel a stronger attachment to us, we

resolved to spare no pains in showing them whatever we could, that they

might wish to see, and which would be likely, in any way, to render

them a benefit.

The reader will have seen, by this time, that they were a close

observing and an amusing set of fellows: and knowing also that at this

time nearly all the curious sights of London were still before us, he

will be prepared to meet the most exciting and amusing parts of this

book as he reads on.

We continued to give these curious and good fellows their daily drives

in their bus, and by an hour spent in this way each day, for several

months, they were enabled to form a tolerably correct idea of the

general shapes and appearance of the city, and its modes, as seen in

the streets. In these drives, as well as in institutions of various

kinds, which they visited, they saw many curious things which amused

them, and others which astonished them very much; but their private

room was the place for their amusing debates, and remarks upon them,

when they returned: and to that I generally repaired every night before

they went to bed, to hear what they had to say and to think, of the

sights they had seen during the day.

_Chickabobboo_, though an Ojibbeway word, had now become a frequent and

favourite theme with them, inasmuch as it was at this time an essential

part of their dinners and suppers, and as, in all their drives about

town, they were looking into the "gin palaces" which they were every

moment passing, and at the pretty maids who were hopping about, and

across the streets, in all directions, both night and day, with

pitchers of ale in their hands. The elevated positions of the Doctor

and Jim, as they were alongside of the driver of the bus, enabling

them, in the narrow streets, to peep into the splendid interior of many

of these, as they were brilliantly illumined, and generally gay with

bonnets and ribbons, and imagining a great deal of happiness and fun

to reign in them, they had several times ventured, very modestly, to

suggest to me a wish to look into some of them--"not to drink," as they

said, "for they could get enough to drink at home, but to see how they

looked, and how the people acted there."

I had told them that if they had the least curiosity, there should

be no objection to their going with me on some proper occasion,

when they again got on their frock coats and beaver hats; and also

that if there were any other curious places they wished to see in

London, Mr. Melody or I would take them there. Upon hearing this the

big-mouthed and quizzical Jim at once took me at my word, and told me

that "some gentleman with Daniel had been telling him and the Doctor

that there were several '_hells_' under the city of London, and that

they ought some time to go down and see them." He didn't think from

what Daniel and that man said that they were hells of "fire," but he

thought as Daniel had been to them, there could not be much danger,

and he thought they would be very curious to see; he knew these were

not the hells which the _black coats_ spoke of, for Daniel told him

there were many beautiful ladies, and fine music, and _chickabobboo_

there; that they did not wish to drink the _chickabobboo_, but merely

to look and see, and then come away; and they had no objections to

put on the black coats for that purpose; he said, in fact, that

Daniel had invited them to go, and that Jeffrey had agreed to go with

them. Jim had me thus "upon the hip" for this enterprise, and when I

mentioned it to poor Melody, he smiled as he seemed to shrink from

it, and said, "Ah, Catlin, that never will do: we are going to spoil

these Indians, as sure as the world; there will be in a little time

nothing but what they will want to see, and we shall have no peace of

our lives with them. They have all gone now, and Daniel and Jeffrey

with them, in their bus, all the way to Blackwall, merely to see how

many _chickabobbooags_ (gin palaces) they can count in the way, going

by one route and returning by another. Their minds are running on

_chickabobboo_ and such things already, and they are in the midst of

such a scene of gin-drinking and drunkenness as they see every day,

that I am almost sorry we ever undertook to drive them out at all. I

am daily more and more afraid that they will all become drunkards, in

spite of all I can do, and I sometimes wish I had them safe home, where

we started from. You have no idea what a charge I have on my hands,

and the annoyance I have about the front of their apartments every

night, from women who are beckoning them down from their windows to

the door, and even into the passages and streets. They seem daily to

be losing their respect for me, and I find it every day more and more

difficult to control them." "And so you will continue to find it," said

I, "unless privileges and freedom to a reasonable extent are granted

to them, while they are strictly adhering to the solemn promises and

restraints we have laid them under. These people have come here under

your promises to show them everything you can, and to teach them

how the civilized world live and act. They have reposed the highest

confidence in you to take care of and protect them, and in return they

have solemnly promised to conduct themselves properly and soberly; and

as long as they adhere to that, you should not let them doubt your

confidence in them, by fearing to show them some parts of the shades as

well as the lights of civilization. They are here to learn the ways of

civilization, and I should deem it wrong to deny them the privilege,

if they ask for it, of seeing such parts of it as you and myself would

go to see. I have been to see the 'hells of London' myself, and would

much sooner take my son there, and there give him the most impressive

lesson in morality, than forbid him to go, expressing to him my fears

of his contamination. These people are like children in some respects,

and they are men in others; and while I fully appreciate all your noble

attachment to them, and your anxieties for them, with the knowledge I

have gained of the Indian character, I feel assured that as they are

brought here to be shown everything of civilization, to restrict them

in seeing the parts of it they desire to see, will be to exhibit to

them a want of confidence which would be apt to lead to worse and more

injurious results before you get home with them. I should have been

very far from mentioning such places to them, or the many other dens

of iniquity which exist in the great city of London and the cities of

our own country, and which I hope they may remain strangers to; but

they having heard of the hells of London, and expressed a desire to see

them, I should feel no hesitation in giving Jim and the Doctor a peep

into them, instead of representing them (as the means of keeping them

away from them) as being a much greater degradation of human nature

than they actually are."

Good, kind Melody looked so much distressed, that I finished my

arguments here, and told him to "rest quite easy; there was a way by

which we could get over it, and I not break my promise with Jim and

the Doctor. That a friend of mine who had been into them recently and

narrowly escaped with his life, would have a talk with them on the

subject in a few days, and all would be right.[24] As for the joke

they are on to-day, about the _gin-shops_, I don't see the least harm

in it. They must have something to laugh at, and while they are getting

their usual daily ride in the open air, they are passing one of the

best comments that ever was made upon one of the greatest vices of the

greatest city in the world."

[24] This unfortunate "friend of mine" called the next day, with a

handkerchief tied over one eye, and one arm in a sling; and

while we _happened_ to be talking of their intended visit to

some of the "hells," he took occasion to exclaim at once, "My

good fellows, let me advise you, go and see everything else in

London, but take especial care you don't go into any of those

infernal regions, and get served as I have been, or ten times

worse, for I was lucky that I didn't lose my life." "Then you

have seen them?" said I. "Seen them? yes, I _saw_, till I was

knocked down three or four times, and my pockets picked, after

I paid out to those infernal demons fifteen pounds; so I lost

about thirty pounds altogether, and have not been able to see

since. Nat B--n of New York was with me, and he got off much

worse than I did; he was carried home for dead and hasn't been

out of his room since. When I get a little better, my good

fellows, I will give you a long account of what we saw, and

I'll venture you never will want to risk your heads there."

My friend here left us, and Jim and the Doctor had evidently

changed their minds about going to see the "Hells of London."

The simple old Doctor, in his curious cogitations amidst the din of

civilised excitements, while he had been ogling the thousands of

ladies and gin-palaces, and other curious things all together, from

the pinnacle of his bus, had brought home one day in round numbers the

total amount of _chickabobbooags_ that he had seen during the hour's

drive on one morning. The enormous amount of these, when added up,

seemed too great for the most credulous; and Jim, seeming to think that

the Doctor had counted the ladies instead of the grog-shops, disputed

the correctness of his report, which had led to the result that was

being carried out to-day, by some pretty spirited betting between the

Doctor, Jim, Daniel, and Jeffrey, as to the number of _gin palaces

(chickabobbooags)_ they should pass on their way from St. James's

Street to Blackwall (where they had curiosity to taste "white bait"),

and back again by a different route, taking _Euston Station_ in their

way as they returned. For this purpose it was arranged that the Doctor

and Jim should take their customary seats with the driver; and _Roman

Nose_ and the _Little Wolf_ inside of the bus, where there was less

to attract their attention, should each take his side of the street,

counting as they passed them, while the old War-chief should notch them

on a stick which they had prepared for the purpose, having Daniel and

Jeffrey by their sides to see that there was no mistake.

The amusements of this gigantic undertaking were not to be even

anticipated until they got back, nor its difficulties exactly

appreciated until they appeared in the prosecution of the design. At

starting off, the _Roman Nose_ and _Little Wolf_ took their positions

on opposite seats, each one appropriating a pane of glass for his

observations, and the old War-chief with his deal stick in one hand

and a knife in the other; and in this way they were ready for, and

commenced operations. Each one as he passed a gin-shop, called out

"_chickabobbooag!_" and the old chief cut a notch. This at first seemed

to be quite an easy thing, and even allowed the old man an occasional

moment to look around and observe the direction in which they were

going, while the two amusing chubs who were outside could pass an

occasional remark or two upon the ladies as they were commencing to

keep an oral account, to corroborate or correct the records that were

making inside. As they gradually receded from the temperate region of

St. James's (having by an ignorant oversight overlooked the numerous

_club-houses_), their labours began to increase, and the old War-chief

had to ply his knife with precision and quickness; the two companions

outside stopped all further conversation, holding on to their fingers

for tens, hundreds, &c. The word _chickabobbooag_ was now so rapidly

repeated at times inside (and oftentimes by both parties at once),

that the old chief found the greatest difficulty in keeping his record

correct. The parties all kept at their posts, and attended strictly to

their reckonings, until they arrived at Blackwall. They cast up none of

their accounts there, but the old chief's record was full--there was

no room for another notch. He procured another stick for the returning

memorandums, and the route back, being much more prolific and much

longer, filled each of the four corners of his new stick, and when it

was full he set down the rest of his sum in black marks, with a pencil

and paper which Daniel took from his pocket.

The reckoning, when they got back, and their curious remarks upon the

incidents of their ride, were altogether very amusing, and so numerous

and discordant were their accounts, that there was no final decision

agreed upon as to the bets.

Their results were brought in thus:

War-chief notches 446

Jim oral 432 doubtful 60

Doctor oral 754 doubtful 0

----

Average 544.

What route they took I never was able to learn, but such were their

accounts as they brought them in; and as it was ascertained that the

Doctor had been adding to his account all the shops where he saw

bottles in the windows, it was decided to be a reasonable calculation

that he had brought into the account erroneously:

Apothecaries and confectioners--say 300

Leaving the average of all together (which was no doubt

very near the thing) Chickabobbooags 450

So ended (after the half-hour's jokes they had about it) this novel

enterprise, which had been carried out with great pains and much

fatigue, and in which, it was suggested by them, and admitted by me,

they had well earned a jug of _chickabobboo_.

The settlement of this important affair was not calculated by any means

to lessen the Doctor's curiosity in another respect, and which has been

alluded to before--his desire to visit some of those places, to see

the manner in which the _chickabobboo_ was made. I put him at rest on

that subject, however, by telling him that there was none of it made

at those shops where it was sold, but that I had procured an order to

admit the whole party to one of the greatest breweries in the city,

where the _chickabobboo_ was made, and that we were all to go the next

day and see the manner in which it was done. This information seemed to

give great pleasure to all, and to finish for the present the subject

of _chickabobboo_.

The night of this memorable day I had announced as the last night of

the Indians at the Egyptian Hall, arrangements having been effected

for their exhibitions to be made a few days in Vauxhall Gardens before

leaving London for some of the provincial towns. This announcement, of

course, brought a dense crowd into the Hall, and in it, as usual, the

"jolly fat dame," and many of my old friends, to take their last gaze

at the Indians.

The amusements were proceeding this evening, as on former occasions,

when a sudden excitement was raised in the following manner. In the

midst of one of their noisy dances, the War-chief threw himself, with a

violent jump and a yell of the shrill war-whoop, to the corner of the

platform, where he landed on his feet in a half-crouching position,

with his eyes, and one of his forefingers, fixed upon something that

attracted his whole attention in a distant part of the crowd. The

dance stopped--the eyes of all the Indians, and of course those of

most of the crowd, were attracted to the same point; the eyes of the

old War-chief were standing open, and in a full blaze upon the object

before him, which nobody could well imagine, from his expression, to be

anything less exciting than a huge panther, or a grizly bear, in the

act of springing upon him. After staring awhile, and then shifting his

weight upon the other leg, and taking a moment to wink, for the relief

of his eyes, he resumed the intensity of his gaze upon the object

before him in the crowd, and was indulging during a minute or two in a

dead silence, for the events of twenty or thirty years to run through

his mind, when he slowly straightened up to a more confident position,

with his eyes relaxed, but still fixed upon their object, when, in an

emphatic and ejaculatory tone, he pronounced the bewildering word of

_Bobasheela!_ and repeated it, _Bobasheela?_ "Yes, I'm _Bobasheela_,

my good old fellow! I knew your voice as soon as you spoke (though

you don't understand English yet)." _Chee-au-mung-ta-wangish-kee,

Bobasheela._ "My friends, will you allow me to move along towards

that good old fellow? he knows me;" at which the old chief (not of a

_hundred_, but) of _many_ battles, gave a yell, and a leap from the

platform, and took his faithful friend _Bobasheela_ in his arms, and

after a lapse of thirty years, had the pleasure of warming his cheek

against that of one of his oldest and dearest friends--one whose heart,

we have since found, had been tried and trusted, and as often requited,

in the midst of the dense and distant wildernesses of the banks of

the Mississippi and Missouri. Whilst this extraordinary interview was

proceeding, all ideas of the dance were for the time lost sight

of, and whilst these veterans were rapidly and mutually reciting the

evidences of their bygone days of attachment, there came a simultaneous

demand from all parts of the room, for an interpretation of their

conversation, which I gave as far as I could understand it, and as far

as it had then progressed, thus:--The old Sachem, in leading off his

favourite war-dance, suddenly fixed his eye upon a face in the crowd,

which he instantly recognized, and gazing upon it a moment, decided

that it was the well-known face of an old friend, with whom he had

spent many happy days of his early life on the banks of the Mississippi

and Missouri rivers in America. The old chief, by appealing to this

gentleman's familiar Indian cognomen of _Bobasheela_, brought out an

instant proof of the correctness of his recognition; and as he held

him by both hands, to make proof doubly strong, he made much merriment

amongst the party of Indians, by asking him if he ever "floated down

any part of the great Mississippi river in the night, astride of two

huge logs of wood, with his legs hanging in the water?" To which

_Bobasheela_ instantly replied in the affirmative. After which, and

several _medicine_ phrases, and masonic grips and signs had passed

between them, the dance was resumed, and the rest of the story, as

well as other anecdotes of the lives of these extraordinary personages

postponed to the proper time and place, when and where the reader will

be sure to hear them.

[Illustration: N^o. 14.]

The exhibition for the evening being over, Bobasheela was taken home

with the Indians, to their lodgings, to smoke a pipe with them; and

having had the curiosity to be of the party, I was enabled to gather

the following further information. This _Bobasheela_ (Mr. J. H., a

native of Cornwall) (Plate No. 14), who is now spending the latter part

of a very independent bachelor's life amongst his friends in London,

left his native country as long ago as the year 1805, and making his

way, like many other bold adventurers, across the Alleghany Mountains

in America, descended into the great and almost boundless valley of

the Mississippi, in hopes by his indefatigable industry, and daring

enterprise, to share in the products that must find their way from that

fertile wilderness valley to the civilized world.

In this arduous and most perilous pursuit, he repeatedly ascended and

descended in his bark canoe--his pirogue or his Mackinaw boat, the

Ohio, the Muskingham, the Cumberland, the Tennessee, the Arkansas,

the Missouri, and Mississippi rivers; and amongst the thousand and

one droll and amusing incidents of thirty years spent in such a sort

of life, was the anecdote which the War-chief alluded to, in the

unexpected meeting with his old friend in my exhibition-room, and which

the two parties more fully related to me in this evening's interview.

The good-natured Mr. H. told me that the tale was a true one, and the

awkward predicament spoken of by the War-chief was one that he was

actually placed in when his acquaintance first began with his good

friend.

Though the exhibition had kept us to a late hour, the greetings and

pleasing reminiscences to be gone over by these two reclaimed friends,

and (as they called themselves) "brothers" of the "Far West," over

repeatedly charged pipes of k'nick k'neck, were pleasing, and held

us to a most unreasonable hour at night. When the chief, amongst his

rapid interrogations to Bobasheela, asked him if he had preserved his

_she-she-quoin_, he gave instant relief to the mind of his friend,

from which the lapse of time and changes of society had erased the

recollection of the chief's familiar name, _She-she-quoi-me-gon_,

by which his friend had christened him, from the circumstance of

his having presented him a _she-she-quoin_(or mystery rattle), the

customary badge bestowed when any one is initiated into the degree of

"doctor" or "brother."

From the forms and ceremonies which my good friend _Bobasheela_ had

gone through, it seems (as his name indicates) that he stood in

the relationship of brother to the chief; and although the chief's

interrogations had produced him pleasure in one respect, one can easily

imagine him much pained in another, inasmuch as he was obliged to

acknowledge that his sacred badge, his _she-she-quoin_, had been lost

many years since, by the sinking of one of his boats on the Cumberland

river. For his standing in the tribe, such an event might have been

of an irretrievable character; but for the renewed and continued good

fellowship of his friend in this country, the accident proved to be one

of little moment, as will be learned from various incidents recited in

the following pages.

In this first evening's interview over the pipe, my friend Mr. H., to

the great amusement of the party of Indians, and of Daniel and the

squaws, who had gathered around us, as well as several of my London

friends, related the story of "floating down the Mississippi river on

two logs of wood," &c., as follows:--

"This good old fellow and I formed our first acquaintance in a very

curious way, and when you hear me relate the manner of it, I am

quite sure you will know how to account for his recognizing me this

evening, and for the pleasure we have both felt at thus unexpectedly

meeting. In the year 1806 I happened to be on a visit to St. Louis,

and thence proceeded up the Missouri to the mouth of the 'Femme

Osage' to pay a visit to my old friend Daniel Boone, who had a short

time before left his farm in Kentucky and settled on the banks of

the Missouri, in the heart of an entire wilderness, to avoid the

constant annoyance of the neighbours who had flocked into the country

around him in Kentucky. The place for his future abode, which he

had selected, was in a rich and fertile country, and forty or fifty

miles from any white inhabitants, where he was determined to spend

the remainder of his days, believing that for the rest of his life

he would be no more annoyed by the familiarity of neighbours. I

spent several weeks very pleasantly with the old pioneer, who had

intentionally built his log cabin so small, with only one room and

one bed for himself and his wife, that even his best friends should

not break upon the sacred retirement of his house at night, but

having shared his hospitable board during the day were referred to

the cabin of his son, Nathan Boone, about four hundred yards distant,

where an extra room and an extra bed afforded them the means of

passing the night.

"The old hunter and his son were thus living very happily, and made

me comfortable and happy whilst I was with them. The anecdotes of his

extraordinary life, which were talked over for amusement during that

time, were enough to fill a volume. The venerable old man, whose long

and flowing locks were silvery white, was then in his 78th year, and

still he almost daily took down his trusty rifle from its hooks in

the morning, and in a little time would bring in a saddle of venison

for our breakfast, and thus he chiefly supported his affectionate

old lady and himself, and the few friends who found their way to his

solitary abode, without concern or care for the future. The stump of

a large cotton-wood tree, which had been cut down, was left standing

in the ground, and being cut square off on the top, and his cabin

being built around it, answered the purpose of a table in the centre

of his cabin, from which our meals were eaten. When I made my visit

to him, he had been living several years in this retired state and

been perfectly happy in the undisturbed solitude of the wilderness,

but told me several times that he was becoming very uneasy and

distressed, as he found that his days of peace were nearly over, as

two Yankee families had already found the way into the country, and

one of them had actually settled within nine miles of him.

"Having finished my visit to this veteran and his son, I mounted my

horse, and taking leave followed an Indian trail to the town of St.

Charles, some thirty or forty miles below, on the north banks of the

Missouri. I here visited some old friends with whom I had become

acquainted on the lower Mississippi in former years, and intending

to descend the river from that to St. Louis by a boat had sold my

horse when I arrived there. Before I was ready to embark, however,

an old friend of mine, Lieutenant Pike, who had just returned from

his exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, had passed up

from St. Louis to a small settlement formed on the east bank of

the Mississippi, and a few miles below the mouth of the Missouri,

to attend a wedding which was to take place on the very evening

that I had received the information of it, and like himself, being

intimately acquainted with the young man who was to be married, I

resolved to be present if possible, though I had had no invitation to

attend, it not being known to the parties that I was in that part of

the country. The spot where the wedding was to take place being on

the bank of the river, and on my route to St. Louis, I endeavoured

to procure a canoe for the purpose, but not being able to get such

a thing in St. Charles at that time for love or money, and still

resolved to be at the wedding, I succeeded in rolling a couple of

large logs into the stream, which laid upon the shore in front of

the village, and lashing them firmly together, took a paddle from

the first boat that I could meet, and seating myself astride of

the two logs I pushed off into the muddy current of the Missouri,

and was soon swept away out of sight of the town of St. Charles.

My embarkation was a little before sundown, and having fifteen or

twenty miles to float before I should be upon the waters of the

Mississippi, I was in the midst of my journey overtaken by night, and

had to navigate my floating logs as well as I could among the snags

and sandbars that fell in my way. I was lucky, however, in escaping

them all, though I sometimes grazed them as I passed, and within a

few inches of being hurled to destruction. I at length entered the

broad waters of the Mississippi, and a few miles below on the left

bank saw the light in the cabins in which the merry circle of my

friends were assembled, and with all my might was plying my paddle to

propel my two logs to the shore. In the midst of my hard struggle I

discovered several objects on my right and ahead of me, which seemed

to be rapidly approaching me, and I concluded that I was drifting

on to rocks or snags that were in a moment to destroy me. But in an

instant one of these supposed snags silently shot along by the side

of my logs, and being a canoe with four Indians in it, and all with

their bows and war-clubs drawn upon me, they gave the signal for

silence, as one of them, a tall, long-armed, and powerful man, seized

me by the collar. Having partially learned several of the languages

of the Indian tribes bordering on the Mississippi, I understood him

as he said in the Ioway language, 'Not a word! if you speak you die!'

At that moment a dozen or more canoes were all drawn close around my

two logs of wood, astride of which I sat, with my legs in the water

up to my knees. These canoes were all filled with warriors with

their weapons in their hands, and no women being with them, I saw

they were a war party, and preparing for some mischief. Finding that

I understood their language and could speak a few words with them,

the warrior who still held me by the collar made a sign to the other

canoes to fall back a little while he addressed me in a low voice.

'Do you know the white chief who is visiting his friends this night

on the bank yonder where we see the lights?' to which I replied 'Yes,

he is an old friend of mine.' 'Well,' said he, 'he dies to-night,

and all those wig-wams are to be laid in ashes. _Stet-e-no-ka_ was a

cousin of mine, and _Que-tun-ka_ was a good man, and a friend to the

white people. The pale faces hung them like two dogs by their necks,

and the life of your friend, the white warrior, pays the forfeit

this night, and many may be the women and children who will die by

his side!' I explained to him as well as I could that my friend,

Lieutenant Pike, had had no hand in the execution of the two Indians;

that they were hung below St. Louis when Lieutenant Pike was on his

way home from the Rocky Mountains. I told him also that Lieutenant

Pike was a great friend of the Indians, and would do anything to aid

or please them; that he had gone over the river that night to attend

the wedding of a friend, and little dreamed that amongst the Indians

he had any enemies who would raise their hands against him.

"'My friend,' said he, 'you have said enough: if you tell me that

your friend, or the friend or the enemy of any man, takes the hand

of a fair daughter on that ground to-night, an Ioway chief will not

offend the Great Spirit by raising the war-cry there. No Ioway can

spill the blood of an enemy on the ground where the hands and the

hearts of man and woman are joined together. This is the command of

the Great Spirit, and an Ioway warrior cannot break it. My friend,

these warriors you see around me with myself had sworn to kill the

first human being we met on our war excursion; we shall not harm

you, so you see that I give you your life. You will therefore keep

your lips shut, and we will return in peace to our village, which is

far up the river, and we shall hereafter meet our friends, the white

people, in the great city,[25] as we have heretofore done, and we

have many friends there. We shall do no harm to any one. My face is

now blackened, and the night is dark, therefore you cannot know me;

but this arrow you will keep--it matches with all the others in my

quiver, and by it you can always recognize me, but the meeting of

this night is not to be known.' He gave me the arrow, and with these

words turned his canoe, and joining his companions was in a moment

out of sight. My arrow being passed under my hat-band, and finding

that the current had by this time drifted me down a mile or two below

the place where I designed to land, and beyond the power of reaching

it with my two awkward logs of wood, I steered my course onward

toward St. Louis, rapidly gliding over the surface of the broad

river, and arrived safely at the shore in front of the town at a late

hour in the night, having drifted a distance of more than thirty-five

miles. My two logs were an ample price for a night's lodging, and

breakfast and dinner the next day; and I continued my voyage in a

Mackinaw boat on the same day to _Vide Pouche_, a small French town

about twenty miles below, where my business required my presence. The

wedding party proceeded undisturbed, and the danger they had been in

was never made known to them, as I promised the War-chief, who gave

me as the condition of my silence the solemn promise, that he would

never carry his feelings of revenge upon innocent persons any farther.

"Thus ends the story of 'floating down the Mississippi River on the

two logs of wood,' which the War-chief alluded to in the question he

put to me this evening. On a subsequent occasion, some two or three

years afterwards, while sitting in the office of Governor Clark, the

superintendent of Indian affairs in St. Louis, where he was holding

'a talk' with a party of Indians, a fine-looking fellow, of six

feet or more in stature, fixed his eyes intently upon me, and after

scanning me closely for a few moments, advanced, and seating himself

on the floor by the side of me, pronounced the word '_Bobasheela_,'

and asked me if ever I had received an arrow from the quiver of an

Indian warrior. The mutual recognition took place by my acknowledging

the fact, and a shake of the hand, and an amusing conversation about

the circumstances, and still the facts and the amusement all kept to

ourselves. This step led to the future familiarities of our lives

in the various places where the nature of my business led me into

his society, and gained for me the regular adoption as Bobasheela

(or Brother) and the badge (the _she-she-quoin_, or Mystery Rattle)

alluded to in the previous remarks, and which, it has been already

stated, was lost by the sinking of one of my boats on the Cumberland

River."

[25] St Louis.

There was a burst of laughter and mirth amongst the squaws and others

of us who had listened to this curious tale, and, as the reader will

easily decide, a great deal of pleasure produced by its relation. The

supper-table by this time was ready, and Bobasheela took a seat by the

side of his old friend. The author was also in the humour, and joined

them at their beef-steak and _chickabobboo_, and so did Mr. Melody

and Daniel, and all who had joined in the merriment of the occasion

of _Bobasheela's_ relation of the story of his going to the wedding

astride of the two logs of wood. After the supper was over, and while

the pipe was passing around, a number of other recitals of adventures

in the "Far-West" continued the amusements of the evening to a late

hour, when the author retired and left them to their own jokes and

their night's rest.

The next morning after this was an exciting and bustling one, as all

were preparing, at an early hour, to visit the great brewery on that

day, as had been promised; and on their way back to see the Thames

Tunnel, and the treasures of the Tower of London. One will easily see

that here was a gigantic day's work struck out, and that material

enough was at hand for my note-book. _Bobasheela_ must be of this

party, and therefore was not left behind: with all in (except the two

bucks, who habitually went outside), the Indian bus, with four horses,

was a travelling _music_ box as it passed rapidly through the streets;

and the clouds of smoke issuing from it at times often spread the alarm

that "she was all on fire within" as she went by. At the brewery, where

they had been invited by the proprietors, servants in abundance were

in readiness to turn upon their giant hinges the great gates, and pass

the carriage into the court; and at the entrance to the grand fountain

of _chickabobboo_ there were servants to receive them and announce

their arrival, when they were met, and with the greatest politeness

and kindness led by one of the proprietors, and an escort of ladies,

through the vast labyrinths and mazes, through the immense halls and

courts, and under and over the dry-land bridges and arches of this

smoking, steeping, and steaming wonder of the world, as they were sure

to call it when they got home. The vastness and completeness of this

huge manufactory, or, in fact, village of manufactures, illustrated and

explained in all its parts and all its mysterious modes of operation,

formed a subject of amazement in our own as well as the Indians'

minds--difficult to be described, and never to be forgotten.

When the poor untutored Indians, from the soft and simple prairies of

the Missouri, seated themselves upon a beam, and were looking into

and contemplating the immensity of a smoking steeping-vat, containing

more than 3000 barrels, and were told that there were 130 others of

various dimensions in the establishment--that the whole edifice covered

twelve acres of ground, and that there were necessarily constantly on

hand in their cellars 232,000 barrels of ale, and also that this was

only one of a great number of breweries in London, and that similar

manufactories were in every town in the kingdom, though on a less

scale, they began, almost for the first time since their arrival, to

evince profound astonishment; and the fermentation in their minds,

as to the consistency of white man's teachings of temperance and

manufacturing and selling ale, seemed not less than that which was

going on in the vast abyss below them. The pipe was lit and passed

around while they were in this contemplative mood, and as their ears

were open, they got, in the meantime, further information of the

wonderful modes and operations of this vast machine; and also, in round

numbers, read from a report by one of the proprietors, the quantity of

ale consumed in the kingdom annually. Upon hearing this, which seemed

to cap the climax of all their astonishment, they threw down the pipe,

and leaping into an empty vat, suddenly dissipated the pain of their

mental calculations by joining in the Medicine (_or Mystery_) Dance.

Their yells and screaming echoing through the vast and vapouring halls,

soon brought some hundreds of maltsmen, grinders, firers, mashers,

ostlers, painters, coopers, &c., peeping through and amongst the

blackened timbers and casks, and curling and hissing fumes, completing

the scene as the richest model for the infernal regions.

Every reader will paint (and _must_ paint) this picture for himself,

imagining the steeping vapour everywhere rising in curling clouds

of white towards the blackened walls, and timbers, and wheels, and

stairways, and arches, and bridges, and casks, and from amongst and

between all of these, the blackened faces and glaring eyeballs piercing

through the steam, upon the unusual, and to them as yet unaccountable,

_fermentation_ going on (to the admiration and amusement of those who

were in the secret) in the empty vat!

At the end of their dance, a foaming mug of the _delicious_ was passed

around, enabling them more easily and lightly to comprehend the wonders

of this mighty scene; and after they had finished their round, and seen

its varied mysteries, a huge and delicious beefsteak, and foaming mugs

of the _cream of chickabobboo_, prepared for them by the kind lady of

one of the proprietors of the establishment, soon smoothed off all the

edges of their astonishment; and after the war-dance and the war-whoop,

given to please the ladies, they again passed under the huge arches and

gateways, and took their omnibus for a visit to the _Tower_.

The mood in which these good-natured fellows had left the brewery was a

very merry one; they had got just ale enough for the present emergency,

and seen an abundant and infallible source at the great fountain of

_chickabobboo_ to ensure them a constant supply, and seemed, as they

passed along the streets, to be pleased with everything they saw. They

met the man again with the "big nose," and succeeded in stopping the

bus to take a good look at his wonderful proboscis. As the bus stopped,

he, like many others, came up to catch a glimpse of the red skins, and

they all declared, on close examination, that his nose at least must

have been begot by a potato; for, as the women had before said, they

could distinctly see the sprouts, and Jim and the Doctor both insisted,

that "if it were planted it would sprout and grow."

They stopped the bus again to speak with some poor Lascars sweeping the

streets; it was difficult to get any interpretation from them, though

the Indians tried their own language on both sides, but in vain; they

gave them fifteen shillings, and passed on.

The Tower, from its outward appearance, did not seem to excite in them

any extravagant expectation of what they were to see within its gloomy

walls. They remarked, when going in, that "they were going to prison;"

and they were of opinion, no doubt, that it consisted of little else,

as they had as yet heard no other description of it than that it was

the "_Tower of London_" and they were going to see it. Poor fellows!

they guessed right; they knew not of the illustrious prisoners who had

pined within its gloomy walls, nor of the blood that had been shed

within and around it. They went to _see_, and had enough to engage

all their thoughts and attention without referring to the events of

history. We were kindly conducted through the different rooms, and most

of its curiosities explained to us. The "small-arms room," containing

200,000 muskets, had been burned. The "horse armoury" seemed to afford

them much delight; the thousands of various spears and lances, they

thought, presented some beautiful models for Indian warfare, and

hunting the buffaloes. The _beheading block_, on which Lords Balmerino,

Kilmarnock, and Lovat were beheaded in the Tower in 1746, attracted

their attention, and the axe that severed the head of Anne Boleyn.

In the _Regalia Room_, the crown of her Majesty and four other crowns,

the sceptres and staffs, and orbs, swords of justice, swords of

mercy, royal spurs, salts, baptismal fonts, &c., in massive gold and

brilliant stones, seemed rather to disappoint than to astonish them;

and to us, who knew better than they did the meaning and value of these

magnificent treasures, there seemed a striking incongruity in the

public exhibition of them in so confined and humble an apartment.

The _Thames Tunnel_ was our next object, and a drive of a quarter of an

hour brought us to the dismal neighbourhood of its entrance. Paying our

fees, and descending some hundred or more steps by a spiral staircase,

we were ready to enter the tunnel. Walking through its gloomy halls,

and spending a few shillings for toys protruded under our faces at

every rod we advanced, by young women sitting at their little stalls

under each of its arches, we at length ascended an equal number of

steps, and came to the light of day on the opposite side of the Thames;

and in the midst of one of the most unintelligible, forlorn, and

forsaken districts of London or the world, we waited half an hour or

more for our omnibus to make its circuit across the bridge and take us

up. We sauntered and loitered our way through, and as long as we were

passing this monster speculation of the world, we met, to the best of

our recollection, but four or five persons passing through, who had

paid their penny a-head for the privilege.

While waiting for the bus, some "on-the-spot" remarks were made by the

Indians, which I thought had some sound sense in them. They thought it

must have cost a great deal of money, and believed it was too far out

of London ever to pay; and they did not see that it was any curiosity

for them, as they had passed through several on the railway ten times

as long. They did not think, however, that it need be time and money

thrown away, as "they thought it might make a first-rate place to twist

ropes." These and other remarks they were making about the great tunnel

as we were jogging along towards home, and evidently somewhat surprised

that we should have excited their curiosity so high about it.

On our return, after this fatiguing day's work was finished, their

dinner was ready; and after that their pipe was smoked, a nap taken,

and then their accustomed amusements in the Egyptian Hall. Their supper

was the next thing, and with it their mug of _chickabobboo_, then their

pipe, passing around as they all reclined on their buffalo robes on the

floor, and then began the gossip about the sights they had seen and

incidents they had witnessed during the day.

This extraordinary day's rambling had taken them across more bridges

and through a greater number of crooked and narrow streets than they

had passed on any former occasion, which brought the Doctor to one of

the first and shrewdest remarks of the evening. He said "he thought

from all that he had seen, sitting on top of the bus all day, that the

English people had the best way in the world for crossing rivers, but

he thought their _paths_ were many of them too narrow and much too

crooked."

"The poor people, and those who seemed to be drunk, were much more

numerous than they had seen them in any other of their drives;" and

they were counting the money left in their pouches to see how much they

had thrown out to the poor. They soon agreed that "they had given away

something more than thirty shillings, which they thought would do a

great deal of good, and the Great Spirit would reward them for it."

The _Doctor_ and _Jim_, the everlasting cronies, on the outside, were

comparing their estimates of the numbers they had counted of the

"_Kon-to-too-ags_ (fighters with one horn)[26] that they had seen over

the doors and shops as they had passed along, which they had been

looking at every day since they came to London, but had never yet been

able quite to learn the meaning of," and also "the _totems_ (arms, as

they supposed) of great chiefs, so beautifully painted and put out

between their chamber windows."

[26] The Royal Arms (the Lion and the Unicorn).

The Doctor said "he believed the white people had got this custom from

the Indians, as it was the habit of the great chiefs and warriors to

put their '_totems_' over their wig-wam doors, but when they did so,

they always put out scalps on certain days, to show what they had

done. He had watched these totems in London as he had been riding, in

all sorts of weather, and as he had seen no scalps or anything hung

out by the side of them, he couldn't exactly see how all these people

were entitled to them; still, it might all be right." Daniel put

the Doctor's inquiries all at rest on the subject of totems and the

"one-horn fighters," by telling him that if he would wait a little

until Mr. Catlin and Mr. Melody had gone, he would give him the whole

history of white men's totems, how they got them and the use they made

of them; and he would also tell him all about the "Lion and the Unicorn

fighting for the Crown," &c.

The Doctor here made some comments on the great white war-chief (the

Duke of Wellington) who had been pointed out to them on horseback as

they passed him in the street, and his wig-wam was also shown to them

(_i.e._ to the Doctor and Jim as they sat outside with the driver). He

was disposed to learn something more of him, and Daniel silenced him by

saying, "Let that alone too for awhile, and I will tell you all about

him."

Daniel and Jim I found at this time very busily engaged in a corner

of the room, with a candle on the floor; whilst Daniel was entering

in a little book the astonishing estimates given us at the brewery,

of the quantity of ale on hand, the size and number of the vats, and

the almost incredible quantity consumed in the kingdom each year.

Jim, as I have before said, was the only one of the party who seemed

ambitious to civilize; and as he was daily labouring to learn something

of the English language, he had this day conceived the importance of

instituting a little book of entries in which he could carry home, to

enlighten his people, something like a brief statistical account of

the marvellous things he was seeing, and was to see, amongst the white

people.

Daniel had at this moment finished entering into it the estimates of

the brewery and _chickabobboo_, which had opened their eyes wider,

perhaps, than anything else they had seen; and he had very wisely left

a few blank pages in the beginning of the book for other retrospective

notes and estimates of things they had already seen since the day

they left home. Jim's Journal was thus established, and he was, with

Daniel's aid, to become a sort of historian to the party; and as the

sequel will show, he became stimulated thereby to greater exertions

to see and to understand what was curious and interesting, and to get

estimates of the beauties and blessings of civilization to carry home.

He laboured from that moment indefatigably, not to write or to read,

but to speak; and made rapid progress, as will be seen hereafter,

having known, as he said, but two English sentences when he came to

England, which were, "How do do?" and "God dam."

Adventures of the Ojibbeway and Ioway Indians in England, France, and Belgium; Vol. 2 (of 2) being Notes of Eight Years' Travels and Residence in Europe with his North American Indian Collection · 第 5 / 15 章