CHAPTER XX.

The Doctor and Jim visit several churches--The Indians in St.

Paul's--In Westminster Abbey--The exhibition at the Hall--The

Doctor agrees to go in the carriage of the "jolly fat dame"--Mr.

Melody objects--The Doctor's melancholy--Indians stop the bus

to talk with Lascars--Make them presents of money--Indians

discover _chickabobboo-ags_ (gin-palaces)--and ladies lying

down in their carriages reading books--_Chim-e-gotch-ees_

(or fish)--Jim's story of "Fish"--Experiments in

mesmerism--Wash-ka-mon-ya (Jim) mesmerized--The Doctor's

opinions on mesmerism--Ioways in Lord's Cricket-ground--Archery

and ball-playing--Encampment--Wigwams--Indians invited by Mrs.

Lawrence to Ealing Park--Their kind reception--Their Royal

Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge--The Princess

Mary--The Duchess of Gloucester--The Hereditary Grand Duke and

Duchess, and other distinguished guests--Amusements--Beautiful

grounds--Indians dine on the lawn--Roast beef and

plum-pudding--_Chickabobboo_--Alarm of the parrots--Doctor's

superstition--_Chickabobboo_ explained--Speech of the

War-chief--Taking leave--Fright of the poor birds--Handsome

presents--Conservatory--The Doctor's ideas of it--Indians

visit Surrey Zoological Gardens--Fright of the birds and

animals--Indians sacrifice tobacco to the lion and the

rattle-snakes.

Mr. Melody, feeling the high importance of the charge of these

fourteen wild people intrusted to his hands by the Government while

they were to see the sights of a foreign country, and feeling the

strongest attachment to them personally, was stimulated to every

exertion by which he could properly open their eyes to the benefits

of civilization, and consequently was inquiring from day to day "what

shall be shown them next?"

I had also, with feelings of the highest respect for the chiefs of the

nation, knowing them to be of the party, enlisted my warmest exertions

in their behalf, and resolved to render them, in all ways I could, the

aid that was due from me for their hospitality which benefited me when

I was in their country.

With these views we continued our omnibus in driving them about

the City and country, and one or the other of us was almost daily

accompanying them to some institution or public works from which they

might derive some useful information. To these they generally went

together and in their native dresses, but there were others where

their costumes and their paint would render them too conspicuous,

and for such purposes two or three suits of clothes, beaver hats and

wigs, became necessary for such a number as wished at any time to look

further (and unobserved) into the arcana and hidden mysteries of the

great metropolis. And the reader will be ready to exclaim with me, that

the field before us was a vast and boundless one.

The two most ambitious to profit by such adventures were "_Jim_" (as

I have before denominated him) and the "_Doctor_:" the _first_, from

a peculiar faculty he had of learning the English language (in which

he was making daily progress), and a consequent insatiable desire to

see and learn the modes, and everything he could, of white people,

excepting their religion; and the _second_, from an indomitable desire

to look in everywhere and upon everything, more for the pleasure of

gratifying a momentary curiosity, and enjoying a temporary smile, than

from any decided ambition to carry home and adopt anything, unless it

might be a vapour-bath, or something of the kind, in the way of his

profession.

In frock-coats and beaver hats, and boots, with a large stick or an

umbrella under the arm, and the paint all washed off, there was not

much in the looks of these two new-fangled gentlemen to attract the

public gaze or remark; and consequently little in the way of the sights

and treasures of London being opened to their view.

From the time that this expedient was adopted, our avocations became

more diversified and difficult; our anxieties and cares increased, and

with them our amusement: for with Melody the sights of London were as

yet prospective; and with me, whether old or new, I met them with an

equal relish with my unsophisticated brethren from the wilderness.

The amusement of "trying on" and "getting the hang" of the new dresses

made merriment enough for the party for one day; and all but these

two were quite willing to forego all the pleasures they could afford,

rather than cover their cool and naked heads with beaver hats, their

shoulders with frock-coats, and substitute for their soft and pliant

mocassins and leggings of buckskin, woollen pantaloons and high-heeled

boots. The two wiseacres, however, who had adopted them were

philosophers, and knew that they were only for certain occasions, after

which they were to be dropped off, and their limbs "at home again"

in their light and easy native dresses. They were obliged, on such

occasions (to be in keeping), to leave their long and ornamented pipes

and tomahawks behind, and (not to lose the indispensable luxury of

smoking) to carry a short and handy civilized pipe, with their tobacco,

and a box of lucifers, in their pockets.

Reader, pray don't try to imagine what a figure these two

copper-coloured "swells" cut, when they first sallied forth in their

new attire, for it will be in vain: but behold them and me, in the

future pages of this book, and when their dresses had got to work easy,

profiting by gazing upon the wonders and glories of civilization, which

we never otherwise could have beheld together.

As one of the first fruits of the new expedient (and while the subject

was fresh and revolving in the minds of all), there was now a chance of

gratifying the Doctor's desire to see the modes and places of worship

of some of the different denominations of religion, of which he had

heard so much, from Daniel and others, within the few days past. These

visits were their first attempts in their assumed characters, and were

mostly made in the company of Mr. Melody or Jeffrey, and without any

amusing results either for the congregations or the Ioways, save an

incident or two, such as must be expected in the first experiments with

all great enterprises. The Doctor had been told that when he entered

the Protestant Church, he must take his hat off at the door, and had

practised it before he started; but, seeing such an immense number of

ladies, he had unfortunately forgot it, and being reminded of it when

he had been placed in his seat, his wig came off with it, exposing, but

a moment however, his scalp-lock and the top of his head, where he had

not deemed it necessary to wash off the red paint.

In the Methodist chapel, where these two queer fellows had ventured one

day with Daniel, the sermon was long and tedious, and there was nothing

observed curious excepting a blue smoke rolling up over the top of

the pew, where the Doctor's pipe had been lit, and his head sunk down

between his knees; and one other occurrence, that afterwards happened

in the heat of the exhortation from the pulpit, and much to the

amusement of the Doctor and Jim, of a young woman, in their immediate

vicinity, who began to groan, then to sing, and at length tumbled down

from her seat upon the floor. The Doctor thought at first she was very

sick, and wondered there was no physician there to bleed her; but when

Daniel told him what was the matter, the old man smiled, and often

talked about it afterwards.

I took the whole party through Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's, where

they stood and contemplated in amazement the works of human hands, so

entirely beyond their comprehension that they returned in reserved and

silent contemplation.

Returning again to the Exhibition-room at the Egyptian Hall, several

evenings of which have passed by without mention, but much in the

same way, we find the same excitement and applause, and the "jolly

fat dame" at the end of the platform, nightly receiving the Doctor's

impressive smiles, which are constantly ready for her; and which by

this time, aided by the continued coldness of the _Roman-nose_, were

making visible inroads upon her tender affections. She had had, it

seemed, on this evening, some conversation with the Doctor, through the

interpreter, who had heretofore studiously kept out of the way, and she

had invited the Doctor to ride to her house in her carriage, after the

exhibition was over, believing that he would be able to find in her

garden, some roots which he was in great distress to find, and that she

would bring him home again safe. Mr. Melody objected to this, which

seemed to puzzle the fair dame, and to throw the Doctor into a profound

melancholy and dejection.

This rebuff from Mr. Melody was so unexpected and so provoking, when

she had so nearly accomplished her object, that the good lady passed

out of the room earlier than usual, and tossed her head about with her

ostrich plumes as she passed along in the crowd, without having the

heart to stop and speak a few words to Daniel, as she had been in the

habit of doing. Mr. Melody retired with the Indians, and I remained

after the crowd had left, at the solicitation of a party of ladies,

who had sent me their card and wished to see me after the exhibition

was over. The room being nearly emptied, I saw a party of several

fashionably-dressed ladies at the further end of the room, examining

the paintings on the walls. In advancing towards them, the one who

seemed to be the leader of the party turned around and exclaimed, "Oh,

here comes Mr. Catlin, I believe?" "Yes, Madam, I am Mr. Catlin." "Oh,

I am so happy to have the honour of seeing you, Sir, and of speaking

to you--you have made all these paintings?" "Yes." "These Indians are

curious fellows, and well worth seeing, but I consider you ten times

more of a curiosity. Look here, ladies, here's Mr. Catlin, the very

man that I have so often told you about. Dear me, what dangers and

hardships you must have been through! Oh, I do think you are one of the

wonders of the world--and not a grey hair in your head yet! My dear

Sir, I know your whole history-- you'd scarcely believe it--I know it

'like a book,' as they say. I recollect the very day when you started

for India, and I have followed you the whole way--I have your book--I

bought several copies to give to my friends; I have read every word of

it over and over again--and, oh! it's wonderful--it's charming--one

can't stop in it--there's no stopping place in it. By the way, I don't

suppose you were down much in the neighbourhood of Chusan (I've got a

nephew there--a fine fellow--he's a surgeon). I suppose you kept pretty

much back in the mountains? You had no object in coming down about the

coast; and they have had rather hot work there." "No, Madam, I had not

the slightest object to take me near Chusan--I kept a great way back."

"That was right; oh, how judicious! Oh, I have read your interesting

work so often. By the way, these fellows are not from the coast--they

are from a great way back, I dare say?" "Yes, Madam, they are a great

way in the interior." "I thought so, I knew so--I can tell, d' ye

see--I can always tell a coaster. These are fine men--they grow tea, I

suppose, though?" "No, these people don't grow tea." "Ah, well, it's

late, we won't take up your time; but I have been so happy to have seen

you--glad, glad to see you home alive to your native soil, and out of

that plagued India. Good night." "Good night, ladies."

As they left me, I turned round, and met a poor fellow approaching me

on one leg and a pair of crutches, and his wife holding on to his arm.

He said he had been waiting some time to have the honour of speaking to

me before he left, having heard my name pronounced. He told me he lived

at Woolwich, where he held some situation for life, as he had lost his

leg in the service of his country, and it was a good living for him,

luckily, though he had been so unfortunate as to lose his leg.

"My wife and I (said he) ave long eard of this extro'nary hexibition,

and she as often hax'd me to come to see it; and though we ave been off

and hon about it a great many times, we never got off together until

this hafter-noon--it's a wonderful sight, sir, hand we are appy to ave

seen you halso."

I thanked the poor fellow, and asked him how he lost his leg.

"It was done by the kick of a orse, Sir."

"But your leg has been taken off above your knee."

"Yes, Sir, the bone was broken, hand it ad to be hamputated."

"It must have been very painful!"

"Ah, hit urt a little; though as for the pain of hamputation, I woudn't

give a penny for it: but the loss of my leg is worth a great deal to

me; it's hall ealed up now, Sir, though it's very hunandy."

This simple and unfortunate man and his very pretty little wife left

me, and I repaired to the Indians' rooms in St. James's Street, where

I found them finishing their suppers and taking their _chickabobboo_.

Here was in readiness a long catalogue of the adventures of the day--of

things they had seen in their drive, &c., to be talked over, as well as

the cruel jokes to be listened to, which they were all passing upon the

poor Doctor, for the sudden failure of his prospects of digging roots

in the fair dame's garden.

There were many subjects of an amusing nature talked over by these

droll fellows during the pipes of this evening, and one of the themes

for their comments was the drive which we had given them in two open

carriages through Hyde Park, at the fashionable hour. They decided

that "the Park, along the banks of the Serpentine, reminded them of

the prairies on the shores of the Skunk and the Cedar rivers in their

own country; and in fact, that some parts of it were almost exactly

the same." They were amused to see many of the ladies lying down as

they rode in their carriages; and also, that many of the great chiefs,

pointed out to them riding on horseback, "didn't know how to ride--that

they were obliged to have a man riding a little behind them to pick

them up if they should fall off."

Jim, who was in an unusual good humour this evening, either from

the effects of his _chickabobboo_ or from some fine present he might

have received in the room, seemed to be the chief "spokesman" for the

evening, and for the purpose of assisting his imagination or aiding

his voice had laid himself flat upon his back upon his robe, which was

spread upon the floor. His loquacity was such, that there was little

else for any of us to do than sit still and excessively laugh at the

dryness of his jokes, and his amusing remarks upon the things they had

seen as they were taking their ride on this and past mornings. He had

now got, as has been said, a facility of using occasional words of

English, and he brought them in once in a while with the most amusing

effect.

He said they had found another place where there were two more

Ojibbeway Indians (as he called them), Lascars. sweeping the streets;

and it seems that after passing them they had ordered their bus to

stop, and called them up and shook hands, and tried to talk with them.

They could speak a few words in English, and so could _Jim_: he was

enabled to ask them if they were Ojibbeways, and they to answer, "No,

they were Mussulmen." "Where you live?" "Bombay." "You sweep dirt in

the road?" "Yes," "Dam fool!" _Jim_ gathered a handful of pennies and

gave them, and they drove off.

It seemed that in their drive this day, Jim and the Doctor had both

rode outside, which had afforded to Jim the opportunity of seeing to

advantage, for the first time. the immense number of "gin palaces,"

as they passed along the streets; and into which they could look from

the top of the bus, and distinctly see the great number of large kegs,

and what was going on inside. The Doctor had first discovered them

in his numerous outside rides, and as he was not quite sure that he

had rightly understood them, hearing that the English people detested

drunkards so much, he had not ventured to say much about them. He had

been anxious for the corroboration of _Jim's_ sharper eyes, and during

this morning they had fully decided that the hundreds of such places

they were in all directions passing, were places where people went

to drink _chickabobboo_, and they were called _chickabobbooags_. The

conversation of Jim and the Doctor enlarged very much on this grand

discovery, and the probable effects they had upon the London people.

They had seen many women, and some of them with little babies in their

arms, standing and lying around them, and they were quite sure that

some of those women were drunk. Jim said that he and the Doctor had

counted two or three hundred in one hour. Some of the party told him

he had made his story too big, so he said he and the Doctor next day

would mark them down on a stick. Jim said there was one street they

came through, where he hoped they would never drive them again, for it

made their hearts sore to see so many women and little children all

in dirty rags: they had never seen any Indians in the wilderness half

so poor, and looking so sick. He was sure they had not half enough to

eat. He said he thought it was wrong to send missionaries from this

to the Indian country, when there were so many poor creatures here

who want their help, and so many thousands as they saw going into the

_chickabobbooags_ to drink fire-water.

He said they came through a very grand street, where every thing looked

so fine and splendid in the windows, and where the ladies looked so

beautiful in their carriages, many of them lying quite down, and seemed

as if they were very rich and happy; and some of them lay in their

carriages, that were standing still, so as to let them read their

books. And in this same grand street they saw a great many fine-looking

ladies walking along the sides of the roads, and looking back at the

gentlemen as they passed by them. These ladies, he and the Doctor

observed, looked young, and all looked very smiling, and they thought

they wanted husbands. A great deal, Jim said, they had seen of these

ladies as they were every day looking out of their own windows in St.

James's Street. A great many of these women, he said, behave very

curious; he said he didn't know for certain but some of these might

be _chimegotches_. This excited a tremendous laugh with the Doctor and

several of the young men, and made some of the women smile, though

it was rather hushed by the chiefs as an imprudent word for Jim to

apply in the present case. This did little, however, to arrest the

effects of Jim's joke, and he continued with some further ingenious

embellishments, which set the chiefs into a roar, and Jim then kept the

field. Melody and myself laughed also, not at the joke, for we did not

understand it, but at their amusement, which seemed to be very great,

and led us to inquire the meaning of _chimegotches_. "Fish," said

Jim, "fish!" We were still at a loss for the meaning of his joke; and

our ignorance being discovered, as well as our anxiety to know, they

proposed that Jim should relate the story of _Chimegotches_, or "Fish."

Some one was charging and lighting the pipe in the mean time, which was

handed to him, as he rose and took a whiff or two, and then, resuming

his former position, flat upon his back, he commenced--

"When the great Mississippi river was a young and beautiful stream,

and its waters were blue and clear, and the Ioways lived on its

banks, more than a thousand snows since, _Net-no-qua_, a young man

of great beauty, and son of a great chief, complained that he was

sick. His appetite left him, and his sleep was not good. His eyes,

which had been like those of the war-eagle, grew soft and dim, and

sunk deep in his head. His lips, that had been the music for all

about him, had become silent; his breast, that had always been calm,

was beating, and deep sighs showed that something was wrong within.

_O-za-pa_, whose medicine was great, and to whom all the plants and

roots of the prairies were known, was quite lost; he tried all, and

all was in vain; the fair son of the chief was wasting away, as each

sweet breath that he breathed went off upon the winds, and never

came back to him. Thus did _Net-no-qua_, the son of _Ti-ah-ka_, pine

away. The medicine man told him at last that there was but one thing

that could cure him, and that was attended with great danger. In his

dream a small prairie snake had got upon a bush, and its light, which

was that of the sun, opened his eyes to its brightness, and his ears

to its words: 'The son of _Ti-ah-ka_ grieves--this must not be--his

breast must be quiet, and his thoughts like the quiet waters of the

gliding brook; the son of _Ti-ah-ka_ will grow like the firm rocks of

the mountain, and the chiefs and warriors, who will descend from him,

will grow like the branches of the spreading oak.' The medicine man

said to the son of _Ti-ah-ka_ that he must now take a small piece of

the flesh from his side for his bait, and in a certain cove on the

bank of the river, the first fish that he caught was to be brought to

his wigwam alone, under his robe, and she, whose blood would become

warm, would be to him like the vine that clings around and through

the branches of the oak: that then his eyes would soon shine again

like those of the eagle; the music of his lips would soon return, and

his troubled breast would again become calm, his appetite would be

good, and his sleep would be sweet and quiet like that of a babe.

"_Net-no-qua_ stood upon a rock, and when the hook, with a piece

of his side, lay upon the water, the parting hair of _Lin-ta_ (the

river-born) was seen floating on the water, and its black and oily

tresses were glistening in the sun as the water glided off from them;

and her lips were opening to enclose the fatal hook that raised

her beautiful breasts above the water. Her round and delicate arms

shone bright with their beauty as she extended them to the shore,

and the river shed its tears over her skin as her beautiful waist

glided through its surface, above which the strong and manly arm of

_Net-no-qua_ was gently raising her. The weeping waves in sparkling

circles clung around her swelling hips and pressing knees, until the

folding robe of the son of _Ti-ah-ka_ was over the wave and around

her bending form. One hand still held her slim and tapering fingers,

and with the other he encompassed her trembling form, as their equal

steps took them from the shore and brought them to the wig-wam of

_Net-no-qua_. His silent house was closed from the footsteps of the

world; her delicate arms clung around the neck of the son of the

chief, and her black and glossy tresses fell over and around his

naked shoulders and mingled with his own. The same robe embraced

them both, and her breath was purer than the blue waves from which

she came. Their sleep was like the dreams of the antelope, and they

awoke as the wild rose-buds open amidst the morning dew; the breast

of _Net-no-qua_ was calm, his eyes were again like the eyes of the

eagle, his appetite was keen, and his lips sounded their music in the

ears of Lin-ta. She was lovely, she was the wife of the son of the

chief, and like the vine that clings around and through the branches

of the oak, did she cling to _Net-no-qua_. They were happy, and many

have been the descendants that have sprung from the dreams of the son

of _Ti-ah-ka_ and the beautiful _Lin-ta_ (the river-born).

"_O-ne-ak'n_ was the brother of _Net-no-qua_, and _Di-ag-gon_ was

his cousin: and _they_ were sick; and they sat upon the rock in the

cove in the river: and the two sisters of Lin-ta shone as they lifted

their graceful forms above the wave, and their beautiful locks spread

as they floated on the surface. The two young warriors sighed as

they gazed upon them. The two sisters embraced each other as they

glided through and above the waves. They rose to full view, and had

no shame. The river 'shed no tears, nor did the sparkling waves hang

in circles about their swelling hips and pressing knees;' and as they

sank, they beckoned the two young warriors, who followed them to

their water-bound caves. They stole back in the morning, and were

ashamed and sick. Their tongues were not silent, and others went.

The two sisters again showed their lovely forms as they glided above

the water, and they beckoned all who came to their hidden caves, and

all came home in the morning sick and sad, while every morning saw

the son of the chief and his river-born Lin-ta calm and bright as

the rising sun. Shame and fear they knew not, but all was love and

happiness with them; very different were the sisters of Lin-ta, who

at length ventured from their caves at night, and strolled through

the village; they were hidden again at the return of the light. Their

caves were the resorts of the young men, but the fair daughters of

Lin-ta knew them not.

"Such was the story of Lin-ta (the river-born); she was the loved of

her husband, and the virtuous mother of her children. Her beautiful

sisters were the loved of all men, but had no offspring. They live

in their hidden caves to this day, and sometimes in the day as well

as in the night are seen walking through the village, though all the

Indians call them _Chim-ee-gotch-es_, that is, _Cold-bloods_, or

_Fish_."

Jim got a round of applause for his story, though the Doctor thought

he had left out some of the most essential and funny parts of it. Jim,

however, seemed well content with the manner in which it was received,

and continued to remark that he and the Doctor had come to the

conclusion that those beautiful young women, that they saw looking back

at the gentlemen in the streets, as well as those who were standing in

front of their windows, and bowing to them, and kissing their hands

every day, must be "fish;" and that in the great village of London,

where so much _chickabobboo_ is drunk, there must be a great number of

"fish." And they thought also that some of these they had seen in the

Egyptian Hall when they were giving their dances.

The above and other critiques of Jim upon London modes seemed to the

chiefs to be rather too bold, and an impolitic position for Jim to

take; and whilst their reprimands were being passed upon him, the train

of humour he had happened to get into on that night turned all their

remarks into jokes, and they were obliged to join in the irresistible

merriment he produced on this occasion, merely from his having taken

(as his wife had refused it on this evening as it was just now

discovered) the additional mug of his wife's _chickabobboo_.

Much merriment was produced amongst the Indians about this time by an

appointment that had been made to see some experiments in mesmerism,

to be performed by a Dr. M---- at the Indians' rooms. The Doctor was

received at the appointed hour, and brought with him a feeble and

pale-looking girl of 14 or 15 years of age to operate upon. This had

taken the Indians rather by surprise, as no one had fully explained the

nature of the operations to them. I got Jeffrey, however, to translate

to them, as near as he could, the nature of this extraordinary

discovery, and the effects it was to produce; and the doors being

closed, and the young woman placed in a chair, the mesmeriser commenced

his mysterious operations. I had instructed the Indians to remain

perfectly still and not to laugh, lest they might hinder the operator,

and prevent the desired effect. With one knee upon the floor, in

front of her, and placing both of his extended thumbs (with his hands

clenched) just in front of her two eyebrows, he looked her steadily

in the face. This eccentric position and expression disposed Jim to

laugh, and though he covered his huge mouth with his hand, and made no

noise, still the irresistible convulsions in his fat sides shook the

floor we were standing on; and the old Doctor at the same time, equally

amused, was liable to do less harm, for all his smiles and laughter,

however excessive, were produced by the curious machinery of his face,

and never extended further down than the chin or clavicles. The little

patient, however, was seen in a few minutes to be going to sleep, and

at length fell back in the chair, in the desired state of somnambulism.

The operator then, by mesmeric influences, opened her eyes, without

touching them, and without waking her, and by the same influence closed

them again. In the same way he caused her hand to close, and none of

us could open it. Here our Doctor, who tried it, was quite at a stand.

He saw the fingers of the operator pass several times in front of it,

and its muscles relaxed--it opened of itself. He then brought, by the

same influence, her left arm to her breast, and then the right, and

challenged the strength of any one in the room to unbend them. This was

tried by several of us, but in vain; and when his fingers were passed

a few times lightly over them, they were relaxed and returned to their

former positions. By this time the Indian women, with their hands over

their mouths, began to groan, and soon left the room in great distress

of mind. The chiefs, however, and the Doctor and Jim, remained until

the experiments were all tried, and with unaccountable success. The

operator then, by passing his fingers a few times over the forehead of

his patient, brought her gradually to her senses, and the exhibition

ended. The convulsions of Jim's broad sides were now all tempered down

into cool quiet, and the knowing smiles of the old Doctor had all run

entirely off from, and out of, the furrows of his face, and a sort of

painful study seemed to be contracting the rigid muscles that were

gathering over them.

[Illustration: N^o. 12.]

The chiefs pronounced the unaccountable operation to be the greatest

of medicine, and themselves quite satisfied, as they retired; but the

old Doctor, not yet quite sure, and most likely thinking it a good

thing for his adoption among the mysteries of his profession in his own

country, was disposed to remain, with his untiring companion Jim, until

some clue could be got to this mystery of mysteries. With this view he

had the curiosity of feeling the little girl's pulse, of examining and

smelling the operator's fingers, &c., and of inquiring whether this

thing could be done by any others but himself; to which I replied, that

it was now being done by hundreds all through the country, and was no

secret. The charm had then fled--it had lost all its value to the old

Doctor. The deep thoughts ceased to plough his wrinkled face, and his

self-sufficient, happy smiles were again playing upon his front. His

views were evidently changed. _Jim_ caught the current of his feelings,

and amusement was their next theme. The old Doctor "thought that _Jim_

could easily be frightened," and would be a good subject. It was

proposed that _Jim_ should therefore take the chair, and it was soon

announced to the squaws, and amongst them to his wife, that _Jim_ had

gone to sleep, and was _mesmerised_. They all flew to the room, which

upset the gravity of his broad mouth, and, with its movements, as a

matter of course, the whole bearing of his face; and the operator's

fingers being withdrawn from his nose, he left the chair amidst a roar

of laughter. It was then proposed that the old Doctor should sit down

and be tried, but he resisted the invitation, on the grounds of the

_dignity of his profession_, which he got me to explain to the medical

man, whom he was now evidently disposed to treat rather sarcastically,

and his wonderful performance as a piece of extraordinary juggling,

or, at least, as divested of its supposed greatest interest, that of

novelty. He told him "that there was nothing new or very wonderful in

the operation, that he could discover; it was no more than the charm

which the snakes used to catch birds; and the more frightful and ugly

a man's face was, the better he could succeed in it. He had no doubt

but many ill-looking men amongst white people would use it as a mode of

catching pretty girls, which they could not otherwise do, and therefore

it would be called amongst white people a very useful thing."

"All the _medicine-men_ (said he) in the Indian country have known for

many years how to do the same thing, and what the white people know

of it at this time they have learned from the Indians; but I see that

they don't yet half know how to do it; that he had brought a _medicine

dress_ all the way with him for the very purpose, and if the mesmeriser

would come the next morning at 9 o'clock, he should see him with it on,

and he would engage to frighten any white lady to sleep in five minutes

who would take a good look at him without winking or laughing." The

mesmeriser did not come, though the Doctor was on the spot and ready.

(_Plate No. 12._)

An event which they had long been looking for with great solicitude

took place about this time--the prorogation of Parliament, which

afforded the poor fellows their only opportunity of seeing the Queen.

They were driven off in good season in their bus, and succeeded in

getting the most favourable view of the Queen and the Prince as they

were passing in the state-carriage; and, to use their own words for

it, "The little Queen and the Prince both put their faces quite out of

their carriage of gold to look at us and bow to us." There is no doubt

but by the kindness of the police they were indulged in a favourable

position and had a very satisfactory view of Her Majesty the Queen,

and it is equally certain that they will never cease to speak of the

splendour of the effect of the grand pageant as long as they live.

The nightly excitements and amusements going on at the Egyptian Hall

were increasing the public anxiety to see these curious people more at

large, and we resolved to procure some suitable ground for the purpose,

where their active limbs could be seen in full motion in the open air,

as they are seen on their native prairies with their ball-sticks, in

their favourite game of the ball, and the use of their bows and arrows,

all of which they had brought with them, but could not use in their

amusements at the Hall. Their dances, &c., were, however, to be kept

up as usual, at night; and for their afternoon exercises in the open

air, an arrangement was made for the use of "Lord's Cricket Ground,"

and on that beautiful field (prairie, as they called it) they amused

thousands, daily, by their dances, archery, and ball-playing.[18]

For this purpose an area of an acre or two was enclosed by a rope,

and protected for their amusements by the police. To this the

visitors advanced on every side, and seemed delighted with their rude

appearance and native sports. This arrangement afforded the Indians

the opportunity of showing their games and amusements to the greatest

advantage, and also of meeting again the acquaintances they had made

at the Egyptian Hall, and shaking hands with all who felt disposed to

do them that honour. They had also brought with them, to illustrate

the whole of Indian life, no less than three tents (wig-wams) made of

buffalo hides, curiously but rudely painted, which the squaws daily

erected on the ground, in presence of the spectators, forming by no

means the least accurate and pleasing part of the exhibition.

[18] This is, undoubtedly, the favourite and most manly and

exciting game of the North American Indians, and often played

by three or four hundred on a side, who venture their horses,

robes, weapons, and even the very clothes upon their backs,

on the issue of the game. For this beautiful game two byes or

goals are established, at three or four hundred yards from

each other, by erecting two poles in the ground for each, four

or five feet apart, between which it is the strife of either

party to force the ball (it having been thrown up at a point

half-way between) by catching it in a little hoop, or racket,

at the end of a stick, three feet in length, held in both

hands as they run, throwing the ball an immense distance when

they get it in the stick. This game is always played over an

extensive prairie or meadow, and the confusion and laughable

scrambles for the ball when it is falling, and often sought

for by two or three hundred gathered to a focus, are curious

and amusing beyond the reach of any description or painting.

The beautiful scenes presented there could be repeated but a few

days, owing to other uses to be made of the grounds; but during that

time they were visited by vast numbers of the nobility of London, and

several members of the Royal Family. The incidents of those days, which

were curious and many, must be passed over, excepting that the Doctor

daily beheld in front of the crowd, and at full length, the "jolly fat

dame," to whom he as often advanced, with a diffident smile, to receive

a beautiful rose, which she handed to him over the rope.

These amusements in the open air in the daytime, with the dances,

&c., at the Hall in the evenings, with their "drive" in the morning,

and civil attentions to persons calling on them at their rooms, now

engrossed completely all their time, and they were actually compelled

to give offence to some parties who called on them, and to whom they

could not devote the time. Amongst those were several deputations from

public schools, of clergymen, and Sunday school teachers; and also

three very excellent Christian ladies in a party, one of whom, Mrs.

E----, I was well acquainted with, and knowing her extensive Christian

and charitable labours, I had encouraged to call, as she had expressed

a strong desire to talk with them on the subject of religion. They

appealed to me, and I desired them to call at another hour, which they

did, and I said to the chief that there was another proposition for a

talk on the subject of religion. This seemed to annoy them somewhat,

and after smoking a pipe, they decided not to see them. I then told

them that they were three ladies; this seemed to startle them for a

few moments, but they smoked on, and finally the War-chief said "it

was a subject on which, if they had anything more to say, they would

rather say it to the men than to women--they can talk with our women if

they like." I then invited the Indian women into the room, and Jeffrey

interpreted for the ladies, who had a long conversation with them, but,

as the ladies afterwards told me, few words on the subject of religion:

as to the first questions on that subject, the squaws answered that

they left that mostly to their husbands, and they thought that if they

loved their husbands, and took good care of their children, the Great

Spirit would be kind to them. These kind ladies called the next day

and left them fourteen Bibles and some other very useful presents,

and their prayers for their happiness, feeling convinced that this

was the most effectual and best way of making lasting and beneficial

impressions on their minds.

One of the very high compliments paid them from the fashionable world

was now before them, and this being the day for it, all parties were

dressing and painting for the occasion. I had received a very kind note

from Mrs. Lawrence, inviting me to bring them to pay her a visit in her

lovely grounds at Ealing Park, a few miles from the city of London.

The omnibus was ready, and being seated, we were there with an hour's

drive, and received on the fine lawn in the rear of her house. Here was

presented the most beautiful scene which the Ioways helped to embellish

whilst they were in the kingdom--for nothing more sweet can be seen

than this little paradise, hemmed in with the richness and wildness

of its surrounding foliage, and its velvet carpet of green on which

the Indians were standing and reclining, and the kind lady and her

Royal and noble guests, collected in groups, to witness their dances

and other amusements. Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of

Cambridge, with the lovely Princess Mary, the Hereditary Grand Duke

and Duchess of Mecklenburgh Strelitz, the Duchess of Gloucester, and

many of the nobility, formed the party of her friends whom this lady

had invited, and who soon entered the lawn to meet these sons of the

forest, and witness their wild sports.

At the approach of the lady and her Royal party, the Indians all

arose, and the chiefs having been introduced, half an hour or more

was passed in a conversation with them, through Jeffrey and myself,

and an examination of their costumes, weapons, &c., when they seated

themselves in a circle, and passing the pipe around, were preparing for

a dance. The first they selected was their favourite, the eagle-dance,

which they gave with great spirit, and my explanation of the meaning

of it seemed to add much to its interest. (_Plate No. 13._) After the

dance they strung their bows and practised at the target, and at length

Mr. Melody tossed up the ball, when they snatched up their ballsticks,

which they had brought for the purpose, and darted over and about the

grounds in the exciting game of the ball. This proved more amusing

to the spectators than either of the former exercises, but it was

short, for they soon lost their ball, and the game being completed,

they seated themselves again, and with the pipe were preparing for the

_war-dance_, in which, when they gave it, the beautiful lawn, and the

forests around it, resounded with the shrill notes of the _war-whoop_,

which the frightened parroquets and cockatoos saucily echoed back with

a laughable effect, and a tolerable exactness. The pipe of peace (or

calumet) dance was also given, with the pipes of peace in their hands,

which they had brought out for the purpose.

While these exciting scenes were going on, the butler was busy

spreading a white cloth over a long table arranged on the lawn, near

the house, and on it the luxuries that had been preparing in the

kitchen, for their dinners. This arrangement was so timed that the

roast beef was on and smoking just when their amusements were finished,

and when the announcement was made that their "dinner was up," all

parties moved in that direction, but in two divisions, the one to

partake, and the other to look on and see how wild people could handle

the knife and fork. This was to be the _last_, though (as I could see

by the anxiety of the spectators) not the _least amusing_ of their

amusements, and it was in the event rendered peculiarly so to some of

us, from the various parts which the kind and illustrious spectators

were enabled to take in it, when in all their former amusements there

was no possible way in which they could "lend a hand." Every one could

here assist in placing a chair or handing a plate, and the Indians

being seated, all were ready and emulous, standing around the table and

at their elbows, to perform some little office of the kind, to assist

them to eat, and to make them comfortable. His Royal Highness proposed

that I should take my stand at the head of the table, before a huge

sirloin of roast beef, and ply the carving knife, which I did; whilst

he travelled, plates in hand, until they all were helped. The young

Princess Mary, and the two little daughters of the kind lady, like the

three Graces, were bending about under loads of bread and vegetables

they were helping the Indians to, and the kind lady herself was filling

their glasses from the generous pitcher of foaming ale, and ordering

the butler to uncork the bottles of champagne which were ready and

hissing at the delay.

[Illustration: N^o. 13.]

This unusual scene was taking place in the nearer vicinity of the

poor parroquets and cockatoos, who seemed, thus far, awed into a

discretionary silence, but were dancing to the right and the left,

and busily swinging their heads to and fro, with their eyes and their

ears open to all that was said and done. When the cork flew from the

first bottle of champagne, the parrots squalled out, "There! there!!

there!!!" and the Indians as suddenly, "_Chickabobboo! chickabobboo!_"

Both laughed, and all the party _had_ to laugh, at the simultaneous

excitement of the parrots and the Indians; and most of them were as

ignorant of the language (and of course of the wit of) the one as of

the other. _Chickabobboo_, however, was understood, at least by the

Indians; and their glasses being filled with champagne, the moment they

were raising it to their lips, and some had commenced drinking, the

cockatoos suddenly squalled out again, "_There! there!! there!!!_" The

old Doctor, and his superstitious friend Jim, who had not got their

glasses quite to their mouths, slowly lowered them upon the table, and

turned, with the most beseeching looks, upon Mr. Melody and myself, to

know whether they were breaking their vow to us. They said nothing, but

the question was sufficiently plain in their _looks_ for an answer, and

I replied, "No, my good fellows, the parrots are fools, they don't know

what they are talking about; they, no doubt, thought this was whiskey,

but we know better; it's some of the '_Queen's chickabobboo_,' and

you need not fear to drink it." This curious affair had been seen but

by a part of the company, and only by the Indians at our end of the

table, and therefore lost its general effect until I related it. The

queer-sounding word "_chickabobboo_" seemed to amuse, and to excite the

curiosity of many, and there was no understanding it without my going

over the whole ground, and explaining how and where it originated,

which, when finished, created much amusement. While I was relating this

story the plates were being changed, and just at the end of it the

parrots sang out again, "_There! there!! there!!!_" as before; but it

was discovered that, at that instant, one of the waiters was passing

near them with a huge and smoking plum-pudding, and so high that we

could but just see his face over the top of it. This was placed before

me, and as I divided and served it, the same hands, Royal and fair,

conveyed it to the different parts of the table. This was a glorious

pudding, and I had helped each one abundantly, expecting, as all did,

that they would devour it without mincing; but, to the surprise of all,

they tasted a little, and left the rest upon their plates. Fears were

entertained that the pudding did not suit them, and I was constrained

to ask why they did not eat more. The reply was reluctant, but very

significant and satisfactory when it came. Jim spoke for all. He said,

"They all agreed that it was good--very good; but that the beef was

also very good, and the only fault of the pudding was, that it had come

too late."

The War-chief at this time was charging his long pipe with _k'nick

k'neck_, and some fire being brought to light it, it was soon passed

from his into the chiefs hands, when he arose from the table, and

offering his hand to His Royal Highness, stepped a little back, and

addressed him thus:--

"My Great Father,--Your face to-day has made us all very happy. The

Great Spirit has done this for us, and we are thankful for it. The

Great Spirit inclined your heart to let us see your face, and to

shake your hand, and we are very happy that it has been so. (_How,

how, how!_)

"My Father,--We have been told that you are the uncle of the Queen,

and that your brother was the King of this rich country. We fear we

shall go home without seeing the face of your Queen, except as we saw

it in her carriage; but if so, we shall be happy to say that we have

seen the great chief who is next to the Queen. (_How, how, how!_)

"My Father,--We are poor and ignorant people from the wilderness,

whose eyes are not yet open, and we did not think that we should be

treated so kindly as we have to-day. Our skins are red, and our ways

are not so pleasing as those of the white people, and we therefore

feel the more proud that so great a chief should come so far to see

us, and to help to feed us; this we shall never forget. (_How, how,

how!_)

"My Father,--We feel thankful to the lady who has this fine house and

these fine fields, and who has invited us here to-day, and to all the

ladies and gentlemen who are here to see us. We shall pray for you

all in our prayers to the Great Spirit, and now we shall be obliged

to shake hands with you and go home. (_How, how, how!_)"

His Royal Highness replied to him,--

"That he and all his friends present had been highly pleased with

their appearance and amusements to-day, and most of all with the

reverential manner in which he had just spoken of the Great Spirit,

before whom we must all, whether red or white, soon appear. He

thanked the chiefs for the efforts they had made to entertain them,

and trusted that the Great Spirit would be kind to them in restoring

them safe home to their friends again."

At this moment, when all were rising and wrapping their robes around

them preparing to start, the lady appeared among them, with a large

plate in her hands, bearing on it a variety of beautiful trinkets,

which she dispensed among them according to their various tastes; and

with a general shake of the hand, they retired from the grounds to take

their carriage for town. The parrots and cockatoos all bowed their

heads in silence as they passed by them; but as the old Doctor (who

always lingers behind to bestow and catch the last smile, and take the

second shake of the hand where there are ladies in question) extended

his hand to the kind lady, to thank her the second and last time, there

was a tremendous cry of "_There! there!! there!!!_" and "_Cockatoo!

cockatoo!_"--the last of which the poor Doctor, in his confusion, had

mistaken for "_Chickabobboo! chickabobboo!_" He, however, kept a steady

gait between the din of "_There! there!! there!!!_" and "_Cockatoo!_"

that was behind him, and the inconceivable laughter of his party in the

carriage, who now insisted on it (and almost made him believe), that

his ugly face had been the sole cause of the alarm of the birds and

monkeys since the Indians entered the ground.[19]

[19] The polite Doctor often spoke of his admiration of this

excellent lady and of her beautiful park, and expressed his

regrets also that the day they spent there was so short; for

while hunting for the ball which they had lost, it seemed he

had strolled alone into her beautiful _Conservatoire_, where

he said, "in just casting his eyes around, he thought there

were roots that they had not yet been able to find in this

country, and which they stood much in need of." He said "he

believed from what he had seen when he was looking for the

ball, though nobody had ever told him, that this lady was a

great root-doctor."

This was theme enough, to ensure them a merry ride home, where they

arrived in time, and in the very best of humour, for their accustomed

evening amusements at the Hall; and after that, of taking their suppers

and _chickabobboo_ in their own apartments, which resounded with songs

and with encomiums on the kind lady and her _chickabobboo_, until they

got to sleep.

The next morning we had an appointment to visit the Surrey Zoological

Gardens, and having the greatest curiosity to witness the mutual

surprise there might be exhibited at the meeting of wild men and wild

animals, I was one of the party. The interview, in order to avoid the

annoyance of a crowd, had been arranged as a private one: we were,

therefore, on the spot at an early hour; and as we were entering (the

Doctor, with his jingling dress and red face, being in advance of the

party, as he was sure to be in _entering_ any curious place, though

the last to _leave_ if there were ladies behind), we were assailed

with the most tremendous din of "_There! there!! there!!!" "Cockatoo!

cockatoo!_" and "_God dam!_" and fluttering of wings of the poor

affrighted parrots, that were pitching down from their perches in all

directions. I thought it best that we should retreat a few moments,

until Mr. Cross could arrange the front ranks of his aviary a little,

which he did by moving back some of their outposts to let us pass. We

had been shown into a little office in the meantime, where Mr. Melody

had very prudently suggested that they had better discharge as many of

their rattling gewgaws as possible, and try to carry into the ground as

little of the frightful as they could. Amusing jokes were here heaped

upon the Doctor for his extreme ugliness, which, as Jim told him,

had terrified the poor birds almost to death. The Doctor bore it all

patiently, however, and with a smile; and partially turned the laugh

upon Jim with the big mouth, by replying that it was lucky for the

gentleman owning the parrots that Jim did not enter first; for if he

had, the poor man would have found them all dead, instead of being a

little alarmed, as they then were.

We were now entering upon the greatest field for the speculations and

amusement (as well as astonishment) of the Indians that they were to

meet in the great metropolis. My note-book was in my hand and my pencil

constantly employed; and the notes that I then and in subsequent visits

made, can be allowed very little space in this work. All were ready,

and we followed Mr. Cross; the Indians, fourteen in number, with their

red faces and red crests, marching in single file. The squalling of

parrots and barking of dogs seemed to have announced to the whole

neighbourhood that some extraordinary visitation was at hand; and when

we were in front of the lions' cage, their tremendous bolts against

its sides, and unusual roar, announced to the stupidest animal and

reptile that an enemy was in the field. The terrible voice of the king

of beasts was heard in every part, and echoed back in affrighted notes

of a hundred kinds. Men as well as beasts were alarmed, for the men

employed within the grounds were retreating, and at every turn they

made amidst its bewildering mazes, they imagined a roaring lion was to

spring upon their backs. The horrid roaring of the lions was answered

by lions from another part of the garden. Hyenas and panthers hissed,

wolves were howling, the Indians (catching the loved inspiration of

nature's wildness) sounded their native war-whoop, the buffaloes

bellowed, the wild geese stretched their necks and screamed; the deer,

the elk, and the antelopes were trembling, the otters and beavers dived

to the bottom of their pools, the monkeys were chattering from the tops

of their wire cages, the bears were all at the summit of their poles,

and the ducks and the geese whose wings were not cropped, were hoisting

themselves out of their element into quieter regions.

The whole establishment was thus in an instant "brushed up," and

in their excitement, prepared to be seen to the greatest possible

advantage; all upon their feet, and walking their cages to and fro,

seemingly as impatient to see what they seemed to know was coming, as

the visiting party was impatient to see them.

I explained to the Indians that the lion was the king of beasts--and

they threw tobacco before him as a sacrifice. The hyenas attracted

their attention very much, and the leopards and tigers, of the nature

of all of which I promised to give them some fuller account after we

got home. They met the panther, which they instantly recognized, and

the recognition would seem to have been mutual, from its evident alarm,

evinced by its hissing and showing its teeth. _Jim_ called for the

Doctor "to see his brother," the wolf. The Doctor's _totem_ or _arms_

was the wolf--it was therefore _medicine_ to him. The Doctor advanced

with a smile, and offering it his hand, with a smirk of recognition,

he began, in a low and soft tone, to howl like a wolf. All were quiet

a moment, when the poor animal was led away by the Doctor's "_distant

howlings_," until it raised up its nose, with the most pitiable looks

of imploration for its liberty, and joined him in the chorus. He turned

to us with an exulting smile, but to his "poor imprisoned brother,"

as he called it, with a tear in his eye, and a plug of tobacco in his

hand, which he left by the side of its cage as a _peace-offering_.

The ostrich (of which there was a noble specimen there) and the

kangaroo excited the admiration and lively remarks of the Indians; but

when they met the poor distressed and ragged prisoner, the buffalo

from their own wild and free prairies, their spirits were overshadowed

with an instant gloom; forebodings, perhaps, of their own approaching

destiny. They sighed, and even wept, for this worn veteran, and walked

on. With the bears they would have shaken hands, if they could have

done it, "and embraced them too," said the Little-wolf, "for he had

hugged many a one." They threw tobacco to the rattlesnake, which is

_medicine_ with them, and not to be killed. The joker, _Jim_, made

us white men take off our hats as we passed the beaver, for it was

his relation; and as he had learned a little English, when he heard

the ducks cry "quack," he pointed to them and told the Doctor to go

there--he was called for.

Thus rapid were the transitions from surprise to pity, and to mirth,

as we passed along, and yet to wonder and astonishment, which had been

reserved for the remotest and the last. Before the massive _elephant_

little or nothing was said; all hands were over their mouths; their

tobacco was forgotten, they walked quietly away, and all of us being

seated under an arbour, to which we were conducted, our kind guide

said to Jeffrey, "Tell the Indians that the immense arch they see now

over their heads is made of the jaw-bones of a whale, and they may now

imagine themselves and the whole party sitting in its mouth." "Well,

now," said Jeffrey, "you don't say so?" "Yes, it's even so." "Well,

I declare! why, the elephant would be a mere baby to it." Jeffrey

explained it to the Indians, and having risen from their seats, and

being satisfied, by feeling it, that it was actually bone, they wished

to go home, and "see the rest at a future time." We were then near the

gate, where we soon took our carriage, and returned to their quarters

in St. James's Street.

Adventures of the Ojibbeway and Ioway Indians in England, France, and Belgium; Vol. 2 (of 2) being Notes of Eight Years' Travels and Residence in Europe with his North American Indian Collection · 第 4 / 15 章