Dangerous Archipelago of the Low Islands--Krusenstern--Squalls
--Discoveries--Otaheite--Matavai--Natives--Houses--Point Venus
--Theft--Singing--Pomare--Sugar--Papiete--Church--Mr. Pritchard
--Thierry--Shells--Mr. Nott--Bible--Paamuto Natives--Falkner--‘Ua’
--Papawa--Relics--Divine Service--Hitote--Henry--Audience--Queen
--Missionaries--Roman Catholics--Forming head--Meeting at Papiete
--Dress--Behaviour--Eloquence of natives--Honourable feelings
--Interesting discussion--Venilia.
After sailing before the wind twelve days, our approach to land was
indicated by a black tern which flew past the ship.[1] Tropic birds
were seen on the previous day (2d), but they roam farther than tern.
On the 9th we saw Honden Island, one of the low coral formations,
only a few feet above water, yet thickly covered with cocoa-nut
trees.[2] Our observations corroborated the position assigned to it
by Admiral Krusenstern,[3] in his excellent chart and memoir, the
only documents of any use to us while traversing the archipelago of
the Low Islands. This archipelago is indeed extremely deserving of
its appellation, ‘Dangerous;’ for numerous coral islets, all low,
and some extensive, obstruct the navigation, while unknown currents
and strong squalls, and a total want of soundings, add to the risk
of sailing there at night. Singular interruptions to the trade-wind
are caused by these low lagoon[4] islands; not only does the easterly
wind often fail among them, but heavy squalls come from the opposite
direction, and more frequently by night than by day. This is
especially the case from November to March.
I have before remarked (pp. 65, 66), that extensive shallows, such as
the Abrolhos and Bermudas, are liable to heavy squalls; and so far
as I have heard or observed, it is usually the case that on land, a
wide tract of flat country, without hills, or at sea, a considerable
space of partly-covered ground, nowhere rising much above high-water,
is subject to more frequent and violent blasts of wind than
mountainous or even hilly regions, whether continental or island.
Clouds are certainly attracted, even if their formation be not
hastened, by land; especially when it is covered by trees: and as
low islands (such as those of the Dangerous Archipelago, between
14° and 20° south) have no hill or height of any kind, about which
clouds attracted by the archipelago (taken together) can gather and
discharge a portion of their contents, electrical as well as fluid,
it may, I think, be inferred, that the want of such a conductor as
would be furnished by a mountain five or six thousand feet high,
is the reason why clouds in various electrical conditions unite or
oppose one another, as the case may be; and, in consequence, cause
rapid changes in the atmosphere around them; of which the effects
are seen in squalls (sometimes with heavy rain, sometimes without),
and even in whirlwinds. Where high land acts as a conductor between
the earth and certain portions of our atmosphere, there may be a
continual, though unperceived, electrical action. In connection with
this subject I would, if I were able, consider the effects of rapidly
varying temperature over land, and comparatively uniform temperature
over ocean during twenty-four hours; which latter fact I might
suspect to be one reason why the great Humboldt could not discover
any particular electrical action, as indicated by his electrometers,
while sailing from Europe to Brazil: although those same instruments
were far from inactive after he landed. But I feel myself out of my
depth, and will leave such speculations to those who are qualified to
indulge in them.[5]
On the 13th, after having passed some anxious nights in very squally
weather,[6] we were gratified by seeing an islet whose existence
we had not suspected. Tairo is the name by which it is known to
the islanders of the archipelago. A few hours afterwards we ranged
along the shore of another and much larger island, or rather group
of islets, till then not laid down in any chart, the native name of
which is Cavahi. We saw a number of islets covered with cocoa-nut
trees, surrounding a lagoon; but could not delay to examine the
south side, because we had been so unexpectedly detained by contrary
winds, and I was very anxious about the chronometer measurement, the
interval being already considerable.
Hastening on, therefore, we passed between the Elizabeth and
Wittgenstein (or Faarava) groups, which are similar to Cavahi in
appearance, and carried a press of sail to reach the Society Islands.
It was singular that directly we were clear of the Low Islands, we
got into a steady trade-wind, such as we had enjoyed before seeing
Honden Island; and were no more troubled by westerly wind, or
squalls, till long after we had left Otaheite[7] and were approaching
near New Zealand.
15th. Early this morning we saw Otaheite; but clouds hanging over the
high land and a haziness about the horizon, at first disappointed
our expectations. As the sun rose higher, the clouds shrunk away,
vanishing as they rolled along the grandly formed mountains: high,
sharp, irregular peaks, and huge masses of rock appeared between the
mists, and again were hidden--deep vallies or glens showed darkly,
and while the shadows passed, seemed to be denied the light of day.
Strikingly different in appearance were the lower hills and dales,
and the richly wooded land at the sea-side. There the bright sunshine
heightened the vivid and ever-varying tints of a rich verdure. The
beautiful alternation of light and shade, each moment changing as the
flitting shadows passed over every kind of green; the groves of
graceful palm-trees; the dazzling white foam of the breakers on the
coral reefs, contrasted by the deep blue of the sea, combined to form
a most enchanting view. At a distance in the west, Eimeo (Moorea)
showed a picturesque outline, and added to the beauty of a scene
which surpassed our ideas, even heightened as they had been by the
descriptions of former voyagers.
[Illustration:
C. Martens. T. Landseer.
OTAHEITE OR TAHITI.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838.]
Passing Point Venus, and avoiding the Dolphin Shoal, we worked up to
an anchorage in Matavai Bay. No pilot appeared, but had we waited in
the offing, a very good one[8] would have offered his services. With
a fresh breeze, we gained the anchorage so quickly that few natives
had time to hasten on board, as is their usual custom: only one long
canoe came alongside while we sailed in: it was made of half a tree,
hollowed out, with a narrow rough plank laced to each side, and an
outrigger, consisting of two crooked branches, secured to the canoe
and to a long piece of light wood which floated in the water parallel
to it. This outrigger extended eight or ten feet from the ticklish
conveyance, and enabled four men to sit at their ease in the narrow
trunk of a tree that had never exceeded a foot in diameter.
The personal appearance of these men was to me most remarkable: tall
and athletic, with very well-formed heads and a good expression of
countenance, they at once made a favourable impression, which their
quiet good-humour and tractable disposition afterwards heightened
very much. To my eye they differed from the aborigines of southern
South America in the form of their heads; in the width or height
of the cheek-bones; in their eyebrows; in their colour; and most
essentially in the expression of their countenances. High foreheads;
defined and prominent eyebrows; with a rich, bronze colour, give an
Asiatic expression to the upper part of their faces; but the flat
noses (carefully flattened in infancy), and thick lips, are like
those of the South Americans.
By the time the vessel was secured, a number of canoes had
assembled, each containing from two to ten persons. A few, indeed,
were so small that they could only hold one man each. The outriggers
hindered their approach, as much as hoops impeded the motions of our
maternal ancestors; but those who could not get near looked equally
happy at a distance. All were cheerful, tractable, and patient,
though eager to see the ‘manuâ’ (their corruption of man-of-war), and
dispose of their merchandize (shells and fruit) to the new-comers.
The work necessary for securing the ship being completed, permission
was given to admit the natives; and on board they swarmed like bees.
In a minute, our deck became a crowded and noisy bazaar. ‘One dălă’
(dollar), and ‘my ty’ (‘maitai,’ meaning ‘good, fine, agreed,’ &c.)
sounded in all tones, except those of women, none of whom appeared
afloat. The current price of every article was ‘one dala’: a pig, a
shell, a whole basket of shells, a roll of cloth, a heap of fruit,
or a single fish-hook, of the worst description, were offered as
equivalents for the coveted dollar. Old clothes, if of cloth, they
would not take, unless as a gift; but linen was acceptable. Every
man had a light linen or cotton garment, or the remains of one, of
some kind; the more respectable wore shirts, and loose wrappers for
trowsers; a few had jackets and trowsers. Many had straw hats; some
had a wreath of leaves, some flowers in their hair: only a few of the
youngest boys were nearly naked.
Mr. Darwin and I went to Point Venus, and landed among a mob of
inquisitive, laughing, and chattering natives, most of whom were
women and children. Mr. Wilson, the respected missionary, so long
resident at Matavai, met us on the beach; and with him we went,
attended by the younger part of the mob, to his house. Ten minutes’
walk along level land, every where, except at the sea-side, covered
or shaded by thick underwood, tall palms, and the rich foliage of
the bread-fruit tree, brought us to the quiet dwelling. The free,
cheerful manners of the natives who gathered about the door, and
unceremoniously took possession of vacant seats, on chairs, or the
floor, showed that they were at home with their benefactors; and that
any seclusion or offensive intimation of superiority had not existed
in the conduct of Mr. or Mrs. Wilson. Two chiefs, of inferior rank,
made acquaintance with us; they walked into the room, shook hands,
sat down at their ease, and conversed with Mr. Wilson in exactly
the manner of respectable English farmers. They were large, but
inactive-looking men, and round-shouldered--suitably clothed, above
the knees, in clean white jackets, shirts, and wrapper trowsers, with
their closely-cut hair hidden by a large straw-hat--their appearance
was very respectable. ‘Ia-orana,’ pronounced ‘yoronha,’ was a
salutation we soon learned; but one of my younger shipmates was a
little perplexed during his first excursion, “Why does every one call
me ‘Your honour,’” said he. Most of our officers and many of the men
passed the evening on shore, and Mr. Darwin and myself rambled about
until darkness summoned all on board.
Often as the native houses have been described, I found them
different from the idea I had formed. Perhaps they are now rather
slighter, and not constructed exactly like those of other times. Upon
slight posts, placed in the ground in a long ellipse, a very light
and elegant frame-work of ‘purau’[9] is supported. This frame-work
forms the low, but extensive roof; and upon it a thatch of pandanus
leaves,--simply doubled upon twigs or reeds placed crosswise on the
purau-wood rafters, which have their ends outwards,--forms a light
covering, impervious to water, regular, indeed pretty to the eye,
impenetrable by heat, and easily replaced once in eight or ten years.
The middle of the roof forms an obtuse angle, as a common low roof
does elsewhere; but the ends are rounded. The purau rafters are
placed at equal distances around the circumference, converging as
radii to the centres and central line of the ellipse. All of them are
of equal length and size, and their ends are generally ornamented
with a neat matting, made of a mosaic[10] pattern. Each line of
twigs, holding the leaves, is straight and equi-distant from the
next; and as, in the house, only about three inches of the smooth
surface of each leaf is seen between the lines of twigs, the flat
under surface, of an uniform appearance and light straw colour, aids
the smooth, round purau in agreeably surprising the eye of a stranger
by a new kind of architecture, as admirable as it is simple. Around
the house, instead of a wall, are strong canes, regularly placed
between the supporting posts, at distances (one or two inches) equal
to the diameter of the canes; they are driven into the ground, and
secured to the roof; one opening only is left for a door. Within are
some screens of native cloth, or framed bed-places, or simply mats
spread upon dry grass. There are a few low stools, some baskets,
joints of bamboo holding cocoa-nut oil, and calabashes with water,
besides a variety of smaller things, which I had not time to examine.
What house in a tropical climate could be more agreeable than one of
these elegant wicker-work cottages, shaded round by large trees, and
profiting by the fresh air of every breeze?
Pretty shades for the face (they cannot be called hats, as they
encircle and project from, without covering the head) are made with
the palm leaves. When fresh, adorned by white, or deep red flowers,
and tastefully placed, this head-dress is unique and pleasing.
Perhaps my eyes were prejudiced in favour of features and complexion;
for the shambling gait and flat noses of the native women had no
charms for me. I saw no beauty among them; and either they are not
as handsome as they were said to be, or my ideas are fastidious.
The men, on the other hand, exceed every idea formed from the old
descriptions.
On this day, with us the 16th, but to agree with the reckoning of
Otaheite and those who came from the west, changed to the 17th, I was
fully occupied in making observations upon the spot where once stood
Cook’s observatory, a classical, and to us, important place. Upon
the situation of this celebrated point, Venus, depend most of the
geographical positions of islands in the South Sea; and its locality
upon our globe has been deemed well known. Messrs. Wales, Green, and
Bayley are particularly entitled to the greatest share of credit
for having by their observations attained to so great a degree of
accuracy.
While we were engaged with the instruments on shore, a crowd of
natives were eagerly displaying their merchandise along side or on
board the ship. From the dawn of day, until they were admitted at
breakfast time, canoes had been approaching from every direction.
Their occupants had heard of the dollars, and every canoe within
reach had been loaded. This sort of competition could not last; so
I thought it better to give them as much opportunity to dispose of
their wares as our small deck allowed; and desired Lieut. Wickham to
let the market be held till trade grew dull. Some wanted to build us
a house; many asked to be allowed to wash our clothes. There appeared
to be no want of will to work, if dollars were to be gained.
On shore it was difficult to make the required observations, among
a crowd of curious observers of ourselves and our instruments; for
though they readily drew back as far as we wished, it was quite
impossible to keep them from running about and shaking the ground.
While employed with the dipping needle under a tent, I thought myself
fortified: but they besieged the small opening so closely, in their
eagerness to see the sight, that the heat caused by a vertical sun
was soon increased to that of an oven, from their thus blocking up
the only air-hole.
At my return to the ship in the evening, I found that the fair had
not lasted above an hour after breakfast. All the natives had behaved
well excepting two; one of whom absconded with the top of a brass
stanchion. The other tried to carry off an axe; but was detected, and
pointed out to the more respectable of his countrymen, who said he
should be tried, and that his sentence would probably be a fine of
ten hogs.[11]
This evening some of our party were much pleased by hearing the
pretty plaintive songs of the children, as they sat in groups upon
the shore. Their voices accord in the most perfect manner; and,
although the tunes are rather monotonous, they detained us, sitting
upon the sandy beach, till we could stop no longer.
18th. Mr. Wilson went with me in a boat to Papiete, the most
frequented harbour of Otaheite. We passed inside the reefs, by
narrow twisting passages among the coral rocks. Seeing two marks set
up on an extensive rocky flat, partially covered by the water, I
concluded they were placed as beacons; but was told they were tabu
(taboo) marks to keep people from fishing or picking up shells upon
the queen’s ‘preserve.’ We passed the royal burying-ground, which is
adorned by that peculiar tree, the aito, whose wood is so hard that
it is called iron-wood. This tree looks like the English yew. It is
purposely planted by the natives near their burying-grounds, and
used to be considered sacred. Another remarkable tree, resembling
(although larger and finer than) the ilex, also casts a solemn shade
over the tomb of Pomare.[12]
The point of land on which the tombs and one of the royal houses
stand, is one of the most agreeable places on the island, in point of
position; and was a favourite residence of old Pomare. A portion of
their superstition hangs about the natives yet: I could not persuade
them to approach the tomb of their king, although they told me to go
and look at it. The tomb is a plain mass of masonry, sheltered by a
roof of wood.
At Toanoa, between this place (called Papawa) and Papiete, we saw
Mr. Bicknell’s sugar-mill. The sugar made there from native cane is
of a very good quality, and cheap. Mr. Bicknell told me that the
natives brought their canes to him; and that latterly he had given up
growing and attending to them himself. Noticing a large deficiency in
some lead-work, he remarked: “That lead was stolen in the last civil
war; our books were then in high request, not to be read, but to
make cartridges.” That such a sad misapplication of numbers of books
sent out by missionary societies, has also occurred in New Zealand,
as well as among the eastern Indian nations, I have heard from many
quarters.
Papiete is a pretty and secure little bay. Around it is low land,
ornamented with trees and European as well as native houses: but
immediately behind the level part, hills rise to a height of two or
three thousand feet. Lying to leeward of the island it enjoys less
sea-breeze, and is therefore hotter than other harbours. In the
middle of the bay is a little island belonging to the queen, where
the colours of Otaheite (red, white, red, horizontal) are displayed.
Several neat-looking white cottages showed that European ideas had
extended their influence hither: but I was sorry to see the new
church, a large wooden structure capable of holding six hundred
people, covered by a partly Otaheitan roof, in lieu of one formed
completely in their own style. Instead of the circular end, an ugly
gable terminates a high box-shaped house, resembling a factory.
Mr. Pritchard[13] arrived from Eimeo as we landed. Leaving him
for a short time, I went to see a person who styled himself
Baron de Thierry, King of Nuhahiva[14] and sovereign chief of
New Zealand. About the house in which resides this self-called
philanthropist,--said to be maturing arrangements for civilizing
Nuhahiva and New Zealand--as well as for cutting a canal across the
Isthmus of Darien,--were a motley group of tattowed New Zealanders,
half-clothed natives of Otaheite, and some ill-looking American
seamen. I was received in affected state by this grandee, who
abruptly began to question me with--“Well, Captain! what news from
Panama? Have the Congress settled the manner in which they are to
carry my ideas into effect?” I tried to be decently civil to him, as
well as to the ‘baroness’; but could not diminish my suspicions, and
soon cut short our conference.
In his house was a pile of muskets, whose fixed and very long
bayonets had not a philanthropic aspect. He had been there three
months, and was said to be waiting for his ships to arrive and carry
him to his sovereignty. Born in England, of French emigrant parents;
his own account of himself was that he was secretary of legation
to the Marquis of Marialva, at the congress of Vienna; and that
in 1815 he belonged to the 23d Light Dragoons (English). In 1816
he was attaché to the French ambassador in London. In 1819 he was
studying divinity at Oxford. In 1820-21, he was a student of laws at
Cambridge. Afterwards he travelled on the continent: and lately had
been sojourning in the United States. He visited and brought letters
from the Governor of St. Thomas, in the West Indies. He showed papers
to prove these assertions: had a wife and four children with him; and
he had succeeded in duping a great many people.
Mr. Pritchard had seen the queen (by courtesy called Pomare, after
her father, though her name was Aimatta) at Eimeo, the day before
he arrived at Otaheite; and as she had not intimated an intention
of coming thence, I agreed to go with him in a few days to pay my
respects to her, and to make a formal application upon the subject
of the Truro, a merchant vessel plundered and destroyed by the Low
Islanders in 1830-31.[15] I returned to Matavai in the evening,
and, after landing Mr. Wilson, remained nearly two hours listening
to the natives singing. I asked them to dance; but they said it was
forbidden, and that the watchman would take them to the governor of
the district, who would fine them heavily. Singing, except hymns, is
also forbidden to the grown people, but they seemed to like listening
to the children.
This evening, before dark, there was a sight upon the Beagle’s deck,
which delighted us who wished to collect shells but had not time to
look for them. An Englishman[16] had spread out a large collection
which he had just brought from the Low Islands, and soon found eager
purchasers.
19th. We weighed anchor, and went into the little cove of Papawa, for
the sake of watering quickly, without exposing the men and boats to
a heavy surf. It is easy to avoid the numerous rocky patches, while
there is a breeze, and the sun shining on either side, or astern;
but if the sun is a-head, it is almost impossible to distinguish the
reefs, by the colour, or relative smoothness of the water. Walking to
the house of Mr. Nott, I saw an elderly native writing in a cottage,
and apparently very intent upon his employment. He showed me what had
engaged his attention, an Otaheitan version of the book of Jeremiah,
in Mr. Nott’s writing, which he was copying in a very distinct, good
hand.
[Illustration: EIMEO NEAR OTAHEITE.
NEAR MATAVAI IN OTAHEITE.
P. G. King. T. Landseer.
M^R. NOTT’S OLD CHAPEL.
OTAHEITE OR TAHITI.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838.]
Mr. Nott, the senior missionary upon the island, had then almost
completed a great work, the translation of the Bible.[17] When we
consider the judgment and persevering industry required to translate
the Bible from one written language into another, it becomes easier
to obtain a fair conception of the labour necessary to fix, and make
proper use of an unwritten, and very peculiar language, in order to
effect such a work,--a work worthy of the fathers of our church.
I paid my respects to the author of this immense undertaking, and
asked his advice and opinion respecting the affairs in which I was
instructed to take a part, while on the island.
In the course of another visit to Papiete, I again met the titular
king of Nuhahiva, and told him my suspicions, so plainly, that he
said he should appeal to the governor of New South Wales, to the
Admiralty, and to the king of England himself, against the unjust
suspicions and improper conduct of the captain of the Beagle!
Since the 17th the weather had been too cloudy, by night and by day,
to admit of astronomical observations. Instead of fine clear weather,
there was a thickly overcast sky, and only light and variable wind.
From the latter end of December to the beginning of March cloudy
weather (with much rain, and westerly winds) is usual at Otaheite.
Singular interruptions to the regularity of the trade-wind occur
among all the tropical islands of this ocean. One instance has
already been given of the uncertain and changeable state of the
weather among the Low Islands, and many more may be found in the
narratives of voyages in the Pacific between the tropics.
20th. While conversing with Middleton about those Low Islands (where
he had passed much time), I was very much struck by the unpleasant
personal feeling shewn by him when alluding to the missionaries,
and their regulations, as contrasted with the strong terms in which
he mentioned the good effects of their intercourse with the Low
Islanders; and how much more missionaries were required. His own
words, as I find them in a paper of remarks he gave me, are, “the
inhabitants (of the Low Islands) are familiarized to Europeans;
and are partly civilized, owing to the Gospel having been preached
to them by the missionaries.” In another place he says, “there are
inhabitants enough to require the constant residence of one or two
missionaries. They have some books of the Gospel in their hands,
but are yet too ignorant to profit by their contents.” His own
antipathy to the missionaries had arisen, I found, in consequence
of their restraints upon his conduct, while at Otaheite.--Among
other information he said that the natives of Chain Island told him
frequently, that the first ship they ever saw was manned with black
people; but the captain, whom the natives styled the ‘King of the
Spirits,’ was a white man. They were much alarmed when they saw
the vessel come close to their island, and their old men deemed it
an omen of impending disasters. Soon after this event, the island
was inundated by the sea, and many people perished. They were then
cannibals, and always at war with the natives of the neighbouring
islands: since that time, which was ‘long ago’ (how long he could
not ascertain), the Chain Islanders have invaded and successively
conquered the other Low Islands, invariably killing and eating the
greater proportion of their captives. (The Low Islands are called
Paamuto.)
Middleton arrived at Otaheite from Chain Island, only two days
before this conversation took place. He came in his own open whale
boat, with a crew of five natives; two being Chain Islanders, one a
native of the Gambier Islands, one from the Marquesas, and one from
the ferocious set who live upon an island called Aura.[18] Knowing
their habits, and understanding their language, radically the same
though differing in dialect, had assisted his daring and enterprising
disposition in a series of wanderings about all the islands which lie
in this quarter of the Pacific. He sold me a chart, made by himself,
in which, he said, every one of the Low Islands was marked, though
not correctly.[19] From him I obtained their native names also, with
the proper pronunciation. He says the natives are great talkers, and
have very good memories: for hours at a time he has often listened,
with the deepest interest, to their traditions, and to the terrible
tales of their inhuman warfare. About the year 1800, as near as he
could ascertain, a ship was cast away upon the low island Arutua:[20]
her crew were Europeans (meaning white men). The people of Arutua
offered no violence, but the blood-thirsty natives of Aura hearing of
the wreck, repaired to the place in a body, and massacred every man.
In the year 1831, the master and mate of the unfortunate Truro,
passing by Aura in a small boat, were invited ashore by many friendly
signs. They suspected no danger, landed together, without arms, were
instantly speared by the treacherous natives, and fell, embracing
each other.[21] Those islands are supposed, by Middleton, to have
received their earlier inhabitants from the Marquesas; and a few,
latterly, from Otaheite.
By frequent intercourse, by presents, and by some slight knowledge
of medicine, Middleton thought he had established himself among
the low islanders so securely that he scrupled not to visit any of
their islands, Aura alone excepted. How necessary it must be for a
missionary to have a knowledge of medicine and surgery. The Jesuit,
Falkner, wandered alone in safety among the tribes of South American
Indians, owing, in a great measure, to his knowledge of the healing
art.[22]
21st. I went to see ‘Ua,’ an old man, who remembered ‘Toote’ (Cook);
yet was still strong and active: he told me that in those days he was
a little boy. There were many more people then in Otaheite; ten to
one, as compared with the present numbers: but sickness had destroyed
a great many, he thought. The island was not so healthy as in former
times; and they had caught diseases, in those days unknown. Asking
who brought this or that disease, he imputed the worst to the ships
which came after Cook’s first visit, and left men upon the island
until their return the following year.[23] Curvature of the spine,
or a hump-back, never appeared until after Cook’s visits; and as he
had a hump-backed man in his ship, they attribute that deformity
to him. ‘Ua’ told me that I need not yet have any anxiety about a
westerly wind, or bad weather. “The wind would be light and variable
during that day, but on the morrow would draw round to the eastward,
and two days afterwards the sky would be nearly free from clouds.”
Thanking the old man with some presents, I returned on board; and the
Beagle then got under weigh, ‘swept’ out of the harbour, and, by the
sails and sweeps, alternately employed, regained her former anchorage
in Matavai Bay. In the course of a walk among the cottages between
Papawa and Matavai, I found numerous tokens of industry, such as I
had not expected in a South Sea island. In an enervating climate,
where abundance of food is easily procured, one ought not to expect
the contented natives to distress their minds or bodies, with anxious
and industrious endeavours to supply wants which they do not feel, in
any degree like the inhabitants of cold or temperate climates; yet
the men of Otaheite undergo great fatigue, and carry heavy burthens
up and down most difficult tracks in the mountains, in a manner
astonishing, if not impossible, to Europeans. Mr. Darwin, who made
a three days’ excursion among the wildest parts of the mountains,
was quite enthusiastic in his account of the strength, activity, and
above all, the excellent disposition and good conduct of the two
natives who were his companions and guides.
At the door of one house I saw the owner reading a book attentively.
It was the New Testament translated into his native language. His
wife was rolling up some of the large green leaves which they use
as substitutes for plates; and two merry little children had been
running after me, singing, in hopes of a present of some trifle. The
superior expression of that man’s countenance, and his unaffected
employment (for I came upon him suddenly, and unperceived till the
children spoke), made an impression upon my mind, which, I hope, will
not be forgotten.
In my way back, passing some tall palm trees, I asked a native to
get me some cocoa-nuts. Putting a strip of bark between his feet, he
threw off his shirt, and jumped ‘at’ the tree, catching the trunk
with his feet and hands at the same moment; then moving his hands
alternately, and his feet by short jumps, the band of bark assisting
their hold on the slender trunk, in a few seconds he was at the top
of a tree seventy feet in height, quite straight and perpendicular,
and tapering in size from a foot to six inches in diameter.
Some curious relics of former times were found for me, which had long
remained in dusty quiet; among them were tortoise-shell masks, and
head pieces surmounted by feathers of the tropic bird; also an apron,
ingeniously, or rather laboriously made of small pieces of mother of
pearl. So long was it since they had been used, that a native about
thirty years of age did not know what they were for: but from the
signs and expressions of the old man to whom they belonged, I think
they formed part of the dress of a priest, used when sacrificing a
(perhaps human) victim.[24] Two English sixpences also found their
way to me, bearing the date 1787; memorials of the ill-fated Bounty.
News arrived that the queen intended to return to her head-quarters
at Papiete, and that she had ordered a present of fruit and pigs to
be prepared.
22d. Sunday. Early this morning a party went with me to Papiete,
and others went to Mr. Nott’s church, while those who could not go
far from the ship attended Mr. Wilson, to hear as well as see the
natives at divine service. At Mr. Pritchard’s church we found an
orderly, attentive, and decently dressed congregation. I saw nothing
“grotesque,” nothing “ludicrous,” nor anything which had a tendency
to “depress the spirits,” or “disappoint one’s expectations.”[25]
The church was quite full and many were sitting outside; I suppose
six hundred people were present besides children, who, like others of
their happy age, required an occasional touch with the white wand of
a most stern looking old beadle, to prevent their chattering to one
another about the strangers, and their ‘money.’[26]
Mr. Pritchard’s fluent delivery in the native language surprised and
pleased us much. The greater part of the natives were very attentive.
Two were making notes upon paper, of the subject of his discourse.
A few were careless, but only a very few; and their eye-wanderings
were caused chiefly by the strangers in uniform. Where is the English
congregation of five or six hundred persons, in which a captious
observer could not occasionally detect inattention to the clergyman?
Hymns were sung with much propriety, and a very pleasing musical
effect. The language is so soft and so full of vowels, that the
good voices and very correct ears of the natives succeed admirably
in hymns. After the service in the native language had ended, we
repaired to the English chapel with Mr. Pritchard, who performed
divine service in the manner of the Independents. Occasional visitors
from ships at the island, and the few European residents who are
within reach, frequent this chapel.
It was certainly better to suppress altogether, rather than only
to restrain and alter their former licentious amusements, but it
seemed to me that some kind of innocent recreation was much wanted
by these light-hearted islanders. There is a void in the mind where
a naturally thoughtless and volatile disposition exists, which it is
extremely difficult to fill with serious thoughts of any duration.
To such minds “a quiet reflecting day,” (as my respected and much
lamented messmate in the Thetis, the Rev. Henry Hall, used to term
Sunday), is, in a great measure, a vacant time of leisure, which if
not occupied by innocent thoughts which interest without doing harm,
is certain to be seized upon by evil imaginations and bad passions.
During the time we passed in the churches it was sufficiently plain
that there was no harshness usually shewn towards the children: for
they clustered round their minister so closely when he moved about,
that he was obliged to push them away, good naturedly, several times.
From the manner of elderly, as well as young natives, I should
conclude that “Pritate,”[27] as they called Mr. Pritchard, was a
favourite.
23d. With Mr. Henry (the son of the missionary) a well known chief,
‘Hitote,’ came on board to share our breakfast. Captain Beechey has
introduced him in his work and described his character. Mr. Henry
was born upon the island, and had never visited England, yet a more
English countenance, or more genuine English ideas, I have seldom met
with in any part of the world. From him I received some information,
to me very interesting, and to those for whom it was my duty to
collect nautical intelligence, I hope useful.[28] Afterwards I
hastened to Papiete to pay my respects to Queen Pomare. I was in time
to see her arrive from Eimeo, sitting on the gunwale of a whale-boat,
loosely dressed in a dark kind of gown, without anything upon her
head, hands, or feet, and without any kind of girdle or sash to
confine her gown, which was fastened only at the throat. There was
no reception at landing: no attendance, no kind of outward ceremony
showed that the ‘Queen of the Isles’ had arrived at her home.
Some time afterwards, when I heard that she was inclined to give an
audience, I went to the royal cottage with Mr. Pritchard. A parcel of
half-dressed merry looking damsels eyed us with an amusing mixture
of shyness and curiosity. These, I concluded, were a part of the
‘Queen’s mob,’ as our interpreter had ignorantly or democratically
called the royal attendants. Only a few men were about the house,
one of whom was the queen’s foster-father (‘feeding father’ in the
Otaheitan language) and another her husband.
Entering a small room, ‘Ia-orana Pomare,’ with a shake of the hand,
was the salutation given by Mr. Pritchard, and by myself, following
his example. On the only three chairs in the room we sat down,
but the queen looked very uncomfortable, and certainly not at all
dignified. I could not help pitying her, for it was evident she was
expecting a lecture on the subject of the Truro, and felt her utter
helplessness: I was therefore glad, after a few words of compliment,
to see her mother, husband, and foster-father enter the room, though
they sat down upon chests or the floor.
I delivered a letter from Commodore Mason, which she asked Mr.
Pritchard to interpret, and sent out to her secretary. A meeting of
the chiefs, herself presiding, was proposed and decided to be held on
the following day. Some conversation then passed on other subjects,
and we took our leave by shaking each individual by the hand. This is
certainly preferable to pressing noses, but I was sorry to see that
the missionaries had attended but little to the outward demeanour,
to the manners, to the attendance, and to the dwelling of the
sovereign of a people whose happiness and improvement would certainly
be increased by raising the character, and improving the condition
of their ruler. While called a queen, Pomare ought to be supported
by some of those ceremonious distinctions, which have, in all ages
and nations, accompanied the chief authority. That the missionaries
should interfere harshly or sweepingly, would doubtless irritate;
but a beneficial influence, almost unnoticed except in its effects,
might be exerted in these temporal, and seemingly trifling affairs,
which might assist hereafter in a day of need.
I have been told that the natives have been very ungrateful to the
missionaries. Perhaps they are not all aware what a debt of gratitude
they owe. Certainly, the better informed and the older inhabitants
understand and appreciate the kindness and the labours of their
devoted teachers; but whether the younger or the lightly-disposed
have, generally speaking, a kindly feeling towards them I doubt. More
temporal enjoyments, and more visible or tangible benefits are asked
for by the younger inhabitants, who are daily becoming more aware
of the manners and habits of civilized nations. Surely the queen,
a young and lively woman, is likely to compare her own habits and
personal comforts, and the degrees of attention or deference shown
to her, with those of foreigners, either resident in or visiting
Otaheite.
Dispensing temporal benefits, with an evident desire to better their
condition in every way, excites the gratitude of ignorant minds,
and often paves the way towards teaching them to acquire abstract
ideas, and to wage war against many of those things which they would
rather do than leave undone. There is a Roman Catholic mission at
the Gambier Islands, amply provided with presents and property fit
for the natives, and it is said that they are succeeding well. At
Otaheite the missionaries were afraid that the doctrines of the Roman
church would obtain a greater influence, and agree better with the
disposition of the natives than the strict discipline in which they
have hitherto been held. Unless preventive measures are taken in
Europe, religious strife and internal warfare may again be caused in
these islands, even by those whose aim is peace. Already there is a
remarkable bitterness of feeling on the subject, which is unlikely to
diminish if the success of the Roman Catholic mission increases.
But I have wandered away from Pomare--her small ill-furnished room
and her awkwardly-contrived house, neither English nor Otaheitan.
Before she became sovereign, she was known by the name of Aimatta,
which signifies ‘eye-eater’;[29] but Pomare has since been adopted
as the royal name. In affixing her signature, ‘Vahine’ is added,
which means ‘female’--thus ‘Pomare Vahine.’ Her husband is a young,
intelligent man; but he has no share in the government, being only
king-consort. This man was the only native of the island, that I saw,
whose nose was sharp and projecting. It is amusing to think that they
call a man ‘long nose,’ in this country, when they wish to wound his
feelings deeply.
During the first few days after a child is born, the mother or her
attendants keep pressing the back of the infant’s head with one hand,
and the forehead and nose with the other, to make the head high and
the nose and brow flat. Children of the higher ranks undergo more
compression, because they are more carefully attended.[30] How the
queen’s husband escaped, or could be chosen by her with such a nose,
I am at a loss to discover.
24th. With all the officers who could be spared from the duty of
the ship, Mr. Darwin and I repaired early to Papiete. Mr. Wilson,
Mr. Henry, and Hitote, were of the party. Arrived at the hospitable
abode of Mr. Pritchard, we waited until a messenger informed us of
the queen’s arrival at the appointed place of meeting--the English
chapel. From our position we had just seen the royal escort--a very
inferior assemblage. It appeared that the chiefs and elderly people
had walked to the chapel when our boats arrived, leaving only the
younger branches of the community to accompany Pomare. The English
chapel is a small, wooden structure, with a high, angular roof; it
is about fifty feet in length and thirty feet wide; near the eastern
end is a pulpit, and at each corner a small pew. The rest of the
building is occupied by strong benches, extending nearly from side to
side; latticed windows admit light and air; the roof is thatched in
a partly Otaheitan manner; none of the woodwork is painted, neither
is there any decoration. Entering the chapel with my companions, I
turned towards the principal pews, expecting to see Pomare there; but
no, she was sitting almost alone, at the other end of the building,
looking very disconsolate. Natives sitting promiscuously on the
benches saluted us as we entered:--order, or any kind of form, there
was none.
The only visible difference between Pomare and her subjects was
her wearing a gay silk gown, tied however round the throat,
though entirely loose elsewhere; being made and worn like a loose
smock-frock, its uncouth appearance excited more notice from our
eyes than the rich material. In her figure, her countenance, or
her manner, there was nothing prepossessing, or at all calculated
to command the respect of foreigners. I thought of Oberea,[31] and
wished that it had been possible to retain a modified dress of the
former kind. A light under-garment added to the dress of Oberea might
have suited the climate, satisfied decency, and pleased the eye, even
of a painter.
Disposed at first to criticise rather ill-naturedly--how soon
our feelings altered, as we remarked the superior appearance and
indications of intellectual ability shown by the chieftains, and by
very many of the natives of a lower class. Their manner, and animated
though quiet tone of speaking, assisted the good sense and apparent
honesty of the principal men in elevating our ideas of their talents,
and of their wish to act correctly.
Every reader of voyages knows that the chiefs of Otaheite are large,
fine-looking men. Their manner is easy, respectful, and to a certain
degree dignified; indeed on the whole surprisingly good. They speak
with apparent ease, very much to the purpose in few words, and
in the most orderly, regular way. Not one individual interrupted
another; no one attempted to give his opinions, or introduce a
new subject, without asking permission; yet did the matters under
discussion affect them all in a very serious manner. Might not these
half-enlightened Otaheitans set an example to numbers whose habits
and education have been, or ought to have been, so superior?
It had become customary to shake hands with the queen, as well as
with the chiefs. This compliment we were expected to pay; but it
seemed difficult to manage, since Pomare occupied a large share of
the space between two benches nearest to the wall, and the next
space was filled by natives. However, squeezing past her, one after
another, shaking hands at the most awkward moment, we countermarched
into vacant places on the benches next in front of her. The principal
chiefs, Utaame, Taati, Hitote, and others, sat near the queen, whose
advisers and speakers appeared to be Taati and her foster-father.
It was left for me to break the silence and enter upon the business
for which we had assembled. Desirous of explaining the motives of
our visit, by means of an interpreter in whom the natives would
place confidence, I told Mitchell the pilot to request that Queen
Pomare would choose a person to act in that character. She named
Mr. Pritchard. I remarked, that his sacred office ought to raise
him above the unpleasant disputes in which he might become involved
as interpreter. The missionaries had approached, and were living in
Otaheite, with the sole object of doing good to their fellow-men, but
I was sent in a very different capacity. As an officer in the service
of my king, I was either to do good or harm, as I might be ordered;
and it was necessary to distinguish between those who were, and ought
to be always their friends, and men whose duty might be unfriendly,
if events should unfortunately disappoint the hopes of those
interested in the welfare of Otaheite. These expressions appeared to
perplex the queen, and cause serious discussions among the chiefs.
Before any reply was made, I continued: “But if Mr. Pritchard will
undertake an office which may prove disagreeable, for the sake of
giving your majesty satisfaction, by forwarding the business for
which this assembly was convened, it will not become me to object;
on the contrary, I shall esteem his able assistance as of the most
material consequence.”
The queen immediately replied, through the chieftain at her right
hand, Taati, that she wished Mr. Pritchard to interpret.
Removing to a position nearer the queen and chiefs (he had been
sitting at a distance), Mr. Pritchard expressed his entire
readiness to exert himself on any question which might affect the
good understanding and harmony that hitherto had existed between
the natives of Otaheite and the British; and he trusted that
those persons present who understood both languages, (Messrs.
Wilson, Bicknell, Henry, and others,) would assist and correct his
interpretations as often as they thought it necessary.
Commodore Mason’s letter to me, authorizing my proceedings, was then
read--in English, by myself--and translated by Mr. Pritchard. Next
was read an agreement or bond, by which Queen Pomare had engaged to
pay 2,853 dollars, or an equivalent, on or before the 1st day of
September 1835, as an indemnification for the capture and robbery of
the Truro at the Low Islands.
The queen was asked whether her promise had been fulfilled?
Taati answered, “Neither the money nor an equivalent has yet been
given.”
“Why is this?” I asked. “Has any unforeseen accident hindered your
acting up to your intentions; or is it not to be paid?”
Utaame and Hitote spoke to Taati, who replied, “We did not understand
distinctly how and to whom payment was to be made. It is our
intention to pay; and we now wish to remove all doubts, as to the
manner of payment.”
I observed, that a clear and explicit agreement had been entered into
with Capt. Seymour; if a doubt had arisen it might have been removed
by reference to the parties concerned, or to disinterested persons;
but no reference of any kind had been made, and Mr. Bicknell, the
person appointed to receive the money, or an equivalent, had applied
to the queen, yet had not obtained an answer.
I then reminded Pomare of the solemn nature of her agreement; of the
loss which her character, and that of her chiefs, would sustain; and
of the means England eventually might adopt to recover the property
so nefariously taken away from British subjects. I said that I was on
my way to England, where her conduct would become known; and if harsh
measures should, in consequence, be adopted, she must herself expect
to bear the blame.
These words seemed to produce a serious effect. Much argumentative
discussion occupied the more respectable natives as well as the
chiefs; while the queen sat in silence.
I must here remark, in explanation of the assuming or even harsh
tone of my conduct towards Pomare, at this meeting, that there was
too much reason for believing that she had abetted, if not in a
great measure instigated, the piracy of the Paamuto people (or Low
Islanders). For such conduct, however, her advisers were the most
to blame. She was then very young; and during those years in which
mischief occurred, must have been guided less by her own will than by
the desires of her relations.
I had been told that excuses would be made; and that unless something
like harshness and threatening were employed, ill effects, instead
of a beneficial result, would be caused by the meeting: for the
natives, seeing that the case was not taken up in a serious manner,
and that the captain of the ship of war did not insist, would trouble
themselves no farther after she had sailed away; and would laugh at
those by whom the property was to be received.
The ‘Paamuto,’ or Low Islands, where the piracies have occurred, in
which she and her relations were supposed to have been concerned,
were, and are still considered (though nominally given up by her),
as under her authority and particular influence. Her father was a
good friend to all the natives of those islands; and the respect and
esteem excited by his unusual conduct have continued to the present
time, and shown themselves in attachment to his daughter. So much
hostility has in general influenced the natives of different islands,
that to be well treated by a powerful chief, into whose hands a gale
of wind, or warfare throws them, is a rare occurrence.
The Paamuto Isles are rich in pearl oysters. Pomare, or her
relations, desired to monopolize the trade. Unjustifiable steps were
taken, actuated, it is said, by her or by these relations; and hence
this affair.
They soon decided to pay the debt at once. Thirty-six tons of pearl
oyster-shells, belonging to Pomare, and then lying at Papiete, were
to form part of the equivalent; the remainder was to be collected
among the queen’s friends. Taati left his place near her, went into
the midst of the assembly, and harangued the people in a forcible
though humorous manner, in order to stimulate them to subscribe for
the queen. After he had done speaking, I requested Mr. Pritchard to
state strongly that the innocent natives of Otaheite ought not to
suffer for the misdeeds of the Low Islanders. The shells which had
come from those ill-conducted people, might well be given as part of
the payment; but the queen ought to procure the rest from them, and
not from her innocent and deserving subjects. A document, expressing
her intention to pay the remaining sum within a stated time, signed
by herself and by two chiefs, with a certainty that the property
would be obtained from the Low Islanders, would be more satisfactory
than immediate payment, if effected by distressing her Otaheitan
subjects, who were in no way to blame.
Taati replied, “The honour of the queen is our honour. We will share
her difficulties. Her friends prefer assisting her in clearing
off this debt, to leaving her conduct exposed to censure. We have
determined to unite in her cause, and endeavour to pay all before the
departure of the man-of-war.”
It was easy to see that the other principal chiefs had no doubt of
the propriety of the demand; and that they thought the queen and
her relations ought to bear the consequences of their own conduct.
Taati, who is related to her, exerted himself far more than Utaame,
Hitote, or any of the others. This part of the business was then
settled by their agreeing to give the shells already collected, such
sums of money as her friends should choose to contribute, and a
document signed by two principal chiefs, expressing the sum already
collected and paid; and their intention of forthwith collecting the
remainder, and paying it before a stipulated time. Difficulties about
the present, as compared with the former value of the shells, were
quickly ended by arbitration; and their value estimated at fifty
dollars per ton: the ready way in which this question about the value
of the shells was settled, gave me a high idea of the natives’ wish
to do right, rather than take advantage of a doubtful point of law.
I next had to remark, that the queen had given up the murderers of
the master and mate of the Truro in a merely nominal manner, and not
in effect; and that she must expect to receive a communication upon
that subject by the next man-of-war.
She asked me--whether I really thought they would be required from
her by the next man-of-war?
I replied: “Those men were tried and condemned by the laws of
Otaheite. Your majesty, as sovereign, exercised your right of
pardoning them. I think that the British Government will respect your
right as queen of these islands; and that his Britannic Majesty will
not insist upon those men being punished, or again tried for the same
offence; but the propriety of your own conduct in pardoning such
notorious offenders, is a very different affair. It will not tend to
diminish the effect of a report injurious to your character, which
you are aware has been circulated.”
After a pause, I said, “I was desired to enquire into the complaints
of British subjects and demand redress where necessary. No complaints
had been made to me; therefore I begged to congratulate her majesty
on the regularity and good conduct which had prevailed; and thanked
her, in the name of my countrymen, for the kindness with which they
had been treated.”
I then reminded Pomare of the deep interest generally felt for
those highly deserving and devoted missionaries, whose exertions,
hazardous and difficult as they had been, and still were, had raised
the natives of Otaheite to their present enlightened and improved
condition; and that every reason united to demand for them the steady
co-operation of both her and her chiefs. Finding that they listened
attentively to Mr. Pritchard’s interpretation, which I was told
was as good as it appeared to me fluent and effective, I requested
permission to say a few words more to the queen--to the effect that
I had heard much of her associating chiefly with the young and
inexperienced, almost to the exclusion of the older and trustworthy
counsellors whom she had around her at this assembly. To be
respected, either at home or abroad, it was indispensably necessary
for her to avoid the society of inferior minds and dispositions; and
to be very guarded in her own personal conduct. She ought to avoid
taking advice from foreigners, whom she knew not, and whose station
was not such as might be a guarantee for their upright dealings:
and she ought to guard carefully against the specious appearances
of adventurers whose intentions, or real character, it was not
possible for her to discover readily. Such men could hardly fail to
misinform her on most subjects; but especially on such as interested
themselves; or about which they might entertain the prejudices and
illiberal ideas which are so prevalent among ignorant or ill-disposed
people. I tried to say these things kindly, as the advice of a
friend: Pomare thanked me, acknowledged the truth of my remarks, and
said she would bear them in mind.
Turning to the chiefs, a few words passed, previous to Taati asking
me, in her name, “Whether they were right in allowing a foreigner
to enlist Otaheitans to serve him as soldiers; and in permitting
them and other men to be trained, for warlike purposes, upon their
island?”[32] My reply was, “If Otaheitan subjects, so trained, almost
under the queen’s eye, act hostilely against the natives of any other
island, will not those natives deem her culpable? To my limited view
of the present case, it appears impolitic, and decidedly improper
to do so.” After a few words with Utaame and Hitote, Taati rose and
gave notice that no Otaheitan should enlist or be trained to serve as
a soldier, in a foreign cause. By this decree de Thierry lost his
enlisted troops, except a few New Zealanders, and whaling seamen.
One of the seven judges, an intelligent, and, for an Otaheitan, a
very well educated man, named ‘Mare,’ asked to speak to me. “You
mentioned, in the third place,” said Mare, “that you were desired to
enquire into the complaints of British subjects, and demand redress,
if necessary. You have stated that no complaint has been made, and
you have given us credit for our conduct: allow me now to complain
of the behaviour of one of your countrymen, for which we have failed
in obtaining redress.” Here Mare detailed the following case of the
‘Venilia,’ and said that no reply to their letter to the British
government, had yet been received. Mare then added, in a temperate
though feeling manner, “does it not appear hard to require our queen
to pay so large a sum as 2,853 dollars out of her small income;
while that which is due to her, 390 dollars, a mere trifle to Great
Britain, has not obtained even an acknowledgment from the British
government?”
I ventured to assure Mare that some oversight, or mistake, must have
occurred, and promised to try to procure an answer for them, which, I
felt assured, would be satisfactory.
The letter on the subject of the Venilia, very literally translated,
is as follows: it is, for many reasons, a curious document.
“Our friend, the king of Britain, and all persons in office in your
government, may you all be saved by the true God!
“The following is the petition of Pomare, of the governors, and of
the chiefs of Tahiti.
“A whale-ship belonging to London, has been at Tahiti: ‘Venilia’ is
the name of the ship, ‘Miner’ is the name of the captain. This ship
has disturbed the peace of the government of Queen Pomare the first.
We consider this ship a disturber of the peace, because the captain
has turned on shore thirteen of his men, against the will of the
governor of this place, and other persons in office. The governor of
this district made known the law clearly. The captain of the ship
objected to the law, and said that he would not regard the law. We
then became more resolute: the governor said to the chiefs, ‘Friends,
chiefs of the land, we must have a meeting.’ The chiefs assembled
on the twenty-second day of December 1831. The governor ordered a
man to go for the captain of the ship. When he had arrived on shore,
the governor appointed a man to be speaker for him. The speaker said
to the captain of the ship, ‘Friend, here are your men, take them,
and put them on board of your ship; it is not agreeable to us that
they should remain upon our land.’ The captain said, ‘I will not
by any means receive them again: no, not on any account whatever!’
The governor again told his speaker to say, ‘Take your men, and put
them on board your ship, we shall enforce our laws.’ The captain
strongly objected to this, saying, ‘I will not, on any account, again
receive these bad men, these mutineers.’ We then said, ‘It is by no
means agreeable to us for these men to live on shore: if they are
disturbers of the peace on board the ship, they will disturb the
peace on shore.’ Captain Hill, who has long been a captain belonging
to Britain, spoke to the captain of the ship: this is what he said
to him: ‘It is not at all agreeable to the laws of Britain that you
should discharge, or in any manner turn away your men in a foreign
land.’ This is another thing Captain Hill said, ‘you should write a
document, stating clearly the crime for which these men have been
turned on shore; that the governor and chiefs may know how to act
towards them, and that they may render you any assistance.’ But this
was not agreeable to the captain; he would not write a document. The
governor then said to the captain, ‘If you will not take your men
on board again, give us the money, as expressed in the law.’ The
captain said, ‘I will not give the money, neither will I again take
the men: no, not on any terms whatever; and if you attempt to put
them on board the ship, I will resist, even unto death.’ The governor
then said, ‘We shall continue to be firm; if you will not give the
money, according to the law, we shall put your men on board the ship,
and should you die, your death will be deserved.’ When the captain
perceived that we were determined to enforce the law, he said,
‘It is agreed; I will give you the money, three hundred and ninety
dollars.’
“On the 24th of December the governor sent a person for the money.
The captain of the ship said, ‘He had no money.’ We then held a
meeting: the governor’s speaker said to the captain, ‘Pay the money
according to the agreement of the 22d day of this month.’ The captain
said, ‘I have no money.’ The governor told him, ‘If you will not pay
the money we will put your men on board the ship.’
“One Lawler said, ‘Friends, is it agreeable to you that I should
assist him? I will pay the money to you, three hundred and ninety
dollars! I will give property into your hands: this is the kind of
property; such as may remain a long time by the sea-side and not
be perishable. In five months, should not the money be paid, this
property shall become your own.’
“Mr. Pritchard said that this was the custom among foreigners. We
agreed to the proposal.
“On the 26th of December we went to Lawler’s house to look at the
property, and see if it was suitable for the sum of money; and also
to make some writings about this property. While there, Lawler made
known to us something new, which was, that we should sign our names
to a paper, written by the captain, for him to show his owners. We
did not agree to this proposal, because we did not know the crime for
which these men were turned on shore. We saw clearly that these two
persons were deceiving us, and that they would not pay the money;
also that the captain would not again take his men; but we did not
attempt to put his men on board the ship, because another English
whaler had come to anchor. We told the captain that we should write a
letter to the British government, that they might order this business
to be investigated, and might afford us their assistance.
“This is the substance of what we have to say:--We entreat you, the
British Government, to help us in our troubles. Punish this Captain
Miner, and command the owners of the Venilia to pay us three hundred
and ninety dollars for thirteen of their men having been left on our
land; and also to send the wages of a native man who was employed
to supply the whole crew with bread-fruit while at anchor here. Let
them send a good musket for this man, because the captain has not
given him a good musket according to the agreement at the beginning.
Captain Miner also gave much trouble to the pilot. He took his ship
out himself: the pilot went after the ship to get his money, and also
the money for Pomare, for anchorage. He would not give the pilot his
share. After some time he gave the pilot some cloth for his share.
“In asking this, we believe that our wish will be complied with.
We have agreed to the wish of the British government in receiving
the Pitcairn’s people, and in giving them land. We wish to live in
peace, and behave well to the British flag, which we consider our
real friend, and special protection. We also wish that you would
put in office a man like Captain Hill, and send him to Tahiti, as a
representative of the king of Great Britain, that he may assist us.
If this should not be agreeable to you, we pray you to give authority
to the reverend George Pritchard, the missionary at this station.
“This is the conclusion of what we have to say. Peace be with you.
May you be in a flourishing condition, and may the reign of the
beloved king of Britain be long! Written at Tahiti on the sixth day
of January, one thousand eight hundred and thirty-two.
“On behalf of POMARE, the queen.
“Signed by APAAPA, chief secretary.
ARUPAEA, district governor.
TEPAU, district governor.
TEHORO, one of the seven supreme judges.
MARE, a district judge, (since raised to be a supreme judge).”
“Addition:--This man, Lawler,[33] is an Irishman: he has been living
at Tahiti about three months: he came from the Sandwich Islands. Of
his previous conduct we can say nothing. We much wish that a British
ship of war would come frequently to Tahiti to take to their own
lands these bad foreigners that trouble us. It is useless for us to
depend upon the consul at the Sandwich Islands. We have long known
that we can obtain no assistance from him.[34]
“We wish to do our duty towards you Britons. You are powerful and
rich--but we are like weak children.
“On behalf of POMARE, the queen.
APAAPA, chief secretary.”
“Paofai (close to Papiete),
Tahiti, 7th January 1832.”
This interesting letter needs no apology for its insertion at full
length. Besides explaining Mare’s application, it helps to give an
idea of the state of Otaheite; and it appeals to our better feelings
in a persuasive manner.
* * * * *
Note (_a_) referred to in page 507.
That the electric agent (whether fire or fluid) goes upward
from the earth to the atmosphere, as well as in the contrary
direction, showing that a mutual action takes place between air
and land, many facts might be brought to prove: I will only
mention two.
“On October 25th we had a very remarkable storm: the sky was all
in flames. I employed part of the night in observing it, and
had the pleasure of seeing three ascending thunderbolts! They
rose from the sea like an arrow; two of them in a perpendicular
direction, and the third at an angle of about 75 degrees.”--(De
Lamanon, in the Voyage of La Pérouse, vol. iii. pp. 431-2).
While H.M. corvette Hind, was lying at anchor off Zante, in 1823,
in twelve fathoms water, an electric shock came in through her
hawse, along the chain-cable, by which she was riding. Two men,
who were sitting on the cable, before the bitts, were knocked
down--felt the effects of the shock about half an hour--but were
not seriously hurt. A noise like that of a gun startled every one
on board; yet there was neither smell, nor smoke, nor any other
visible effect. The sky was heavily clouded over; small rain
was falling; and there was distant thunder occasionally, but no
visible lightning. The cable was hanging slack, almost ‘up and
down.’ I witnessed this myself.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] 3d November, lat. 11°.45′ S., long. 126° W.
[2] About 110 feet from the water level to the top of the trees.
[3] Admiral Krusenstern had the kindness to send me a copy of his
Atlas of the Pacific Ocean, accompanied by an elaborate memoir.
[4] Most of them are little better than dry reefs encircling a
shallow lake or lagoon.
[5] See note (_a_) at the end of this chapter.
[6] All the squalls were from the westward.
[7] Some diversity of opinion has arisen respecting the spelling of
this name. No person now doubts that Tahiti is the native word, and
therefore the most correct to be used when talking to Polynesian
islanders, or writing for them; but as our immortal countryman, Cook,
wrote Otaheite, and it is difficult to hear or see the word without
thinking of him, I shall beg to be allowed the same privilege that
Frenchmen claim when writing ‘Londres,’ or Englishmen when they write
‘Sicily;’ and for the future use only the word Otaheite.
[8] Called James Mitchell, though an aboriginal Otaheitan.
[9] The ‘purau’ is something like bamboo.
[10] Or arabesque.
[11] The man who tried to steal the axe was fined eight hogs and a
large piece of cloth. Five of the pigs went to the queen, and three
were sent on board the Beagle. The cloth was given to the man who
caught the thief.
[12] The late king.
[13] Now Her Majesty’s Consul.
[14] One of the Marquesas.
[15] This I was requested to do by Commodore Mason.
[16] John Middleton.
[17] This noble work is completed. I have now lying by me a copy
of the entire Bible, in the language of Otaheite, translated and
compiled by Mr. Nott, who has just sailed from England on his return
to Otaheite, carrying with him an ample number of copies of the Book
of Books. I felt deeply gratified by that good man’s kindness in
giving me one of the first copies which were printed.
[18] Excepting the savages of Aura the natives of Chain Island
have conquered, successively, all the other islanders in their
neighbourhood. On Chain Island there are more hogs and fruits than on
any other low island.
[19] Some of these data were used in adding to Admiral Krusenstern’s
chart.
[20] I do not know its position.
[21] I remarked that the heads of the Otaheitans and those few of
the Chain Islanders whom I saw, were strikingly different, but truly
conformable to their respective characters.
[22] “Mr. Thomas Falkner was the son of a surgeon of eminence at
Manchester, and was brought up in his father’s profession, for which
he always manifested the most promising disposition. To complete his
professional studies, he was sent to London to attend St. Thomas’s
Hospital; and, happening to lodge in Tooley-street, on the Surrey
bank of the Thames, he made an acquaintance with the master of a
ship, employed in the Guinea trade, who persuaded the young surgeon
to accompany him in his next voyage in his professional capacity.
On his return to England, he engaged to go in the same situation
on board a merchant ship to Cadiz, from which he continued his
voyage to Buenos Ayres, a Spanish settlement on the River La Plata.
Here he fell sick, and was in so dangerous a state when his ship
was ready to depart, as not to be in a condition to be carried on
board; so she sailed without him. The Jesuits, of which there was
a college at Buenos Ayres, nursed him during his illness with the
greatest care and kindest assiduity; and perceiving the very great
advantage which they would derive, in their missions, from possessing
a brother who was so well skilled in medicine and surgery, spared
no pains to win his affection and secure his confidence. In short,
they so worked upon his mind, as to persuade him to enter into their
college, and finally to become one of their order. He now entered
upon his ministry among the Indians who inhabit the vast track of
country between the River La Plata and the Straits of Magellan.
His skill in the cure of diseases, and in performing chirurgical
operations, together with his knowledge of mechanics, rendered his
mission successful beyond example. In this country he remained near
forty years, and was among the persons appointed by the Spanish
government to make a survey of the coasts between the Brazils and the
Tierra del Fuego, Falkland Island, &c. When the society of Jesuits
was dissolved, he was sent back to Spain, and after an absence of
near forty years, arrived in his native country. Soon after his
return to England he became domestic chaplain to Robert Berkeley,
esquire, of Spetchley, near Worcester, a Roman Catholic gentleman
of distinguished knowledge, most respectable character, and large
fortune. There he wrote the account of Patagonia, which has been
quoted in this volume, and was afterwards published, with a map
corrected from that of D’Anville, according to his own observations.
Mr. Falkner possessed a very acute mind, a general knowledge, and
most retentive memory. Of his medical experience and practice, I
have heard physicians of eminence speak in the highest terms of
commendation. His manners, as may be supposed from the tenor of his
life, were at once singular and inoffensive: and he retained somewhat
of his Indian habits to the last. He died, as I have been informed,
about the year 1781.”--Colnett’s Voyage, page 25, note.
[23] Spanish ships, from Lima, in 1774-6.
[24] A whole dress may be seen at the British Museum, brought to
England by Cook in 1771.
[25] I had read Kotzebue’s voyage a few days previously.
[26] All gold or silver is by them called ‘money;’ the gold lace on a
coat, an epaulette, a gold coin, or a dollar, is ‘money.’
[27] Having so few consonants in their language, obliges them to
change most of our names.
[28] Mr. Henry’s data were also used in adding to Krusenstern’s chart.
[29] I need not remark upon the offering made to the king in the time
of human sacrifice.
[30] Mitchell, the native pilot, described this process to me
minutely.
[31] Queen of Otaheite in 1767. “Both men and women are not only
decently, but gracefully clothed, in a kind of white cloth, that is
made of the bark of a shrub, and very much resembles coarse China
paper. Their dress consists of two pieces of this cloth: one of them,
a hole having been made in the middle to put the head through, hangs
down from the shoulders to the mid leg before and behind; another
piece, which is between four and five yards long, and about one yard
broad, they wrap round the body in a very easy manner.”--Wallis’s
Voyage Round the World, 1767.
[32] With reference to the so-called Baron de Thierry.
[33] This Lawler was so remarkably good-looking a man, that the
natives used to say (literally translated) that “he was as beautiful
as a glass tumbler.” (Many years ago, when Wallis discovered the
Society Islands, a drinking-glass excited so much notice, that
ever since it has been referred to as one of the most beautiful of
objects.)
[34] The British government has since appointed Mr. Pritchard to act
as Consul for the Society and Friendly Islands.