Andes--Aconcagua--Villarica--Islay--Powder--Callao--Rejoin Beagle
--Constitucion--Plans--Wilson--Carrasco--‘Galāpagos’--Iguanas--Lava
Rocks--Land-tortoises--Craters--Turtle--Shells--Dye--Volcanoes
--Settlement--Albemarle Island--Cyclopian Scene--Tagus Cove--Tide
Ripples--Settlers--Climate--Salt--Dampier--Birds--Transportation
of Tortoises--Currents--Temperature of Water.
The irreclaimably barren appearance of the sea-coast of Northern
Chile, is very repulsive to an eye accustomed to woodland scenery:
yet there is an effect in its lofty mountains, which seem to rise
abruptly almost from the ocean, that charms one for a time. Just
before sunrise is generally the most favourable moment for enjoying
an unclouded view of the Andes in all their towering grandeur: for
scarcely have his beams shot between their highest pinnacles into the
westward vallies, when clouds of vapour rise from every quarter, and
during the rest of the day, with few exceptions, obscure the distant
heights.
It has been long supposed that the Andes are higher about the equator
than near or beyond the tropic; but the Beagle’s measurements of
Aconcagua[1] and Villarica,[2] prove that there is still much to be
ascertained on this subject. Few results, depending upon angular
measurement, are more difficult to obtain with accuracy than the
heights of distant mountains. With respect to Aconcagua, though a
variety of measurements, taken by different officers at various
times, agreed together so closely as to give from 23,200 to 23,400
feet for the vertical elevation of that volcano above the level of
the sea, I would not claim to be much nearer the truth than within
500 feet.
The Blonde touched at Cobija, Arica, and Islay--hapless arid
dwelling-places for either man or beast, as I have ever seen. Of
these and other ports along the coasts of Northern Chile and Peru,
nautical information will be found in the Appendix. I will only delay
the general reader with one or two observations.
From near Iquique to Arica the precipitous coast is so lofty, and
approaches so much to the character of enormous cliffs, about a
thousand feet high, that it is really sublime. Near Islay, the land
is in several places covered with a whitish powder, or dust, which
lies many inches thick in hollows or sheltered places, but is not
found abundantly in localities exposed to wind. Much difference of
opinion has arisen about this powder. People who live there say it
was thrown out of a volcano near Arequipa a great many years ago:
other persons assert that it is not a volcanic production, and
appertains to, or had its origin, where it is found. My own idea was,
before I heard any thing of the controversy, that there could be no
doubt of its having fallen upon the ground within some hundred years,
for it was drifted like snow, and where any quantity lay together,
had become consolidated about as much as flour which has got damp in
a damaged barrel.
In one of the old voyages there is a passage which seems to throw
some light upon this subject: “As they (of Van Noort’s ship) sailed
near Arequipa, they had a dry fog, or rather the air was obscured
by a white sandy dust, with which their clothes and the ship’s
rigging became entirely covered. These fogs the Spaniards called
‘arenales.’”--Voyage of Van Noort, in 1660, from Burney, vol. ii. p.
223.
On the 9th of August, the Blonde anchored in Callao Bay, and I
enjoyed the satisfaction of finding all well on board the Beagle.
She had touched at Copiapó and Iquique, for Mr. Darwin, in her way
to Callao, where she arrived on the 19th of July. Lieutenant Sulivan
brought his little vessel safely to an anchor near the Beagle on the
30th, having accomplished his survey in a very satisfactory manner.
So well did he speak of the Constitucion, as a handy craft and good
sea boat, and so correctly did his own work in her appear to have
been executed, that after some days’ consideration I decided to buy
her, and at once set on foot an examination of the coast of Peru,
similar to that which Mr. Sulivan had completed of the coast of
Chile. Don Francisco Vascuñan had authorized the sale of his vessel
at Callao: she was purchased by me for £400, and immediately fitted
out afresh.
I could not spare Lieutenant Sulivan to remain on the coast of Peru,
while the Beagle would be crossing the Pacific, on her return to
England by way of the Cape of Good Hope; but there was Mr. Usborne,
able and willing to undertake the task, who, from his station,
could be spared without prejudice to the duties yet remaining to be
executed on board the Beagle, and a better man for the purpose I
could not have desired. With him Mr. Forsyth volunteered to go, and
Commodore Mason was prevailed upon to allow Mr. E. Davis, a master’s
assistant of the Blonde, to join the little expedition; who, with
seven good seamen, and a boy, volunteers from the Beagle, completed
Mr. Usborne’s party.
A stranger might well smile at the idea of such a boat affair being
started to survey, in eight or at most ten months, the whole coast of
Peru, from Paposo, near Atacama, to the River Guayaquil; but the task
was completed; the charts are now engraved; and very soon seamen will
be able to test their accuracy.
Most people are aware that the coast of Peru is free from storms;
that the wind blows moderately along the land or from it; and that
there is little or no rain. Consequently, as the sea is seldom much
disturbed (except by a south-west swell), and there are neither
‘races’ nor dangerous streams of tide, an open boat might undertake
such a task, if safety alone were to be considered, provided that
she did not try to land in a surf. The real impediments to surveying
that coast are--the surf caused on those steep rocky shores by
an occasional heavy swell, almost amounting to rollers, from the
south-westward; the delays and doubts created by prevalent fogs;
and the loss of positions, as well as time, consequent upon being
drifted by currents during a calm. Mr. Usborne had also to prepare
for, and provide against, as much as possible, difficulties of a
very different nature--those arising out of the disturbed state of
that country--the anarchical internal dissensions which are the bane
of all South America, but especially of Peru. In this respect there
were so many prospective dangers, as well as difficulties, that I
should not have ventured to let him encounter them, had we not had
such a man as Belford Hinton Wilson[3] to rely upon for foresight,
advice, influence, and as hearty unflinching assistance, as any
one public servant could afford to another. Mr. Wilson’s exertions
were unceasing, until he procured every passport and document that
could by any possibility be required for Mr. Usborne. He introduced
him as well as myself, to the hydrographer (Don Eduardo Carrasco)
who assisted us in many ways most materially; and after I left the
coast he showed every possible attention and kindness to all the
Constitucion’s party; winding up by advancing a large sum of money
out of his own purse, to forward the service in which they were
engaged, and increase their comfort during a long passage to England
round Cape Horn.
Captain Carrasco, formerly in the Spanish navy, and now Director
of the Nautical School at Lima, gave me, and afterwards Mr.
Usborne, every particle of information which he and I thought
might be useful--both verbally and in writing--besides which he
ransacked the archives for manuscripts, charts, and books, from
which he allowed extracts to be taken or copies made, in the
most truly liberal manner; and I long to see the results of our
voyage, whatever they may be, laid before him and his friends, as
an acknowledgment--however slight--of their free assistance and
co-operation.
On the 6th of September Mr. Usborne sailed.[4] He was to commence
near Paposo; work along the coast thence to Guayaquil, and afterwards
return to Callao.
The following day the Beagle left Callao, and steered direct towards
the Galāpagos Islands, of which, as they are novel ground, I shall be
rather minute in my description.
15th. Uncertain of the strength, and even of the direction of
the currents--though aware that at times the former is very
considerable--we were anxiously looking out for land, when what
appeared to be an islet was seen from the mast-head. This seeming
islet turned out to be the summit of Mount Pitt, a remarkable hill
at the north-east end of Chatham Island. (Charles Island of Cowley,
1684). As the breeze and current carried us onwards, the tops of
other hills successively appeared, and for a short time looked very
like a cluster of islets.
Gradually rising above the horizon, the greater part of Chatham
Island became distinctly visible: in this neighbourhood it is not
often that the air near the water is clear enough to allow of very
distant high land being thus gradually raised above the horizon
of an eye at the mast-head; for, in general, clouds hang about
these islands, and the atmosphere itself is hazy. Towards evening
the higher parts of the land were clouded over, but we were near
enough to see that the island was very rugged--in some places quite
barren--in others covered with a stunted and sun-dried brushwood--and
that the heights, on which the clouds hung, were thickly clothed
with green wood. The shores seemed to be bold, and easy to approach,
though not to land upon, because of a continual high surf.
A number of little craters (as they appeared to be) and huge
irregular-shaped masses of lava rock, gave a strangely misleading
appearance to the lower parts of the island; and when first seen
through that indistinct glimmer which is usually noticed over land on
which a hot sun is shining, were supposed to be large trees and thick
wood.[5] Hood Island, small and rather low, was seen before dusk,
when we tacked and stretched to seaward for a few hours.
16th. Assisted by a current running to the westward, we worked up to
Hood Island during the night, and at daylight lowered a boat down
and prepared her for Mr. Chaffers, who, with Mr. Mellersh, was to
examine this island and the anchorages about it. Under the land we
saw two whalers at anchor, which showed North American colours. The
island is small--neither high nor low--rugged, covered with small
sun-burnt brushwood, and bounded by a bold, rocky shore. Some small
beaches of white sand are visible here and there.
As soon as Mr. Chaffers had set out, the Beagle steered towards
Chatham Island, with a moderate breeze, which allowed us to prepare
the yawl for another party, under Lieutenant Sulivan. At noon,
Barrington Island was visible from the deck, and appeared to be
distant about twenty miles; when with Messrs. Stewart and Johnson,
and ten chosen seamen in the yawl, Mr. Sulivan left us to examine the
central islands of the archipelago.
In continuing our course, we passed through several ripplings,
apparently caused by the meeting of streams of current which set
along the shores of Chatham Island, from the east towards the west.
If not so caused, they must be the effects of currents passing over
very uneven ground, but we got no bottom, with fifty fathoms of line.
When such appearances are created by shoals, it should be remembered
that the shallowest place is generally under the smoothest part,
close to the ripple. Favoured by smooth water and fine weather, we
passed close to the low south-west extreme, and anchored directly
that point was found to defend us from the swell.
This part of the island is low, and very rugged. We landed upon
black, dismal-looking heaps of broken lava, forming a shore fit
for Pandemonium. Innumerable crabs and hideous iguanas started in
every direction as we scrambled from rock to rock. Few animals are
uglier than these iguanas; they are lizard-shaped, about three feet
in length; of a dirty black colour; with a great mouth, and a pouch
hanging under it; a kind of horny mane upon the neck and back; and
long claws and tail. These reptiles swim with ease and swiftness--but
use their tails only at that time. At a few yards from the water we
found vegetation abundant, though the only soil seen was a little
loose dusty earth, scattered upon and between the broken lava.
Walking is extremely difficult. A hand-barrow was lying at the
landing-place, which showed that terrapin were to be got near us,
though we did not then see any. The men from whalers and sealing
vessels carry the large terrapin, or land-tortoises, on these barrows.
Ascending a little hill, we were surprised to find much brush or
underwood, and trees of considerable size, as large in the trunk
as one man could clasp. These were prickly pears, and a kind
of gum-tree: how their roots are able to penetrate, or derive
nourishment from the hard lava, it is hard to say; for earth there is
scarcely any. Wild cotton shrubs are numerous. This first excursion
had no tendency to raise our ideas of the Galāpagos Islands.
17th. Weighed and stood along-shore, sounding. There was good
anchorage, until near the south-west point of Stephens Bay, off which
the water is shoal, and the bottom uneven. We anchored in Stephens
Bay, and found an American whaler lying there. This bay is large, and
the anchoring ground generally good; but the landing is bad at low
water. There is no fresh water: and it is frequently difficult to
enter, as well as to leave, because usually becalmed by high land,
it seldom feels the true wind. Enderby Cove is only fit for a boat;
at low water it is full of rocks. The Kicker Rock is a curious mass
of stone, rising almost perpendicularly from the bottom of the sea,
where it is thirty fathoms deep; and in the offing is another (called
the Dalrymple, by Colnett), which looks exactly like a ship becalmed,
with all sail set. Seeing a remarkable hill at the north-east side of
the bay, which had not an appearance like other parts of the island,
I went to it in a boat, hoping to find water near the foot, and to
have a good view from the summit. Disappointed in both ways, the hill
being composed of a crumbling sand-stone, and almost inaccessible, I
returned to the ship early next morning. Several new birds were seen
by those who were on shore, and many fish were caught on board, of
which the best and most numerous were a kind of rock cod, of large
size.
18th. Weighed and stood along-shore until noon, when we anchored
close to a low rugged point, near the north-east end of the island:
employed two boats in examining the shore, and landed a party to
look for terrapin: Mr. Darwin and Mr. Stokes went to the top of a
neighbouring hill. Throughout this day it blew so fresh a breeze,
that double-reefed topsails were as much as could be carried: but
I think this strength of wind only prevailed under the lee of the
island, where the wind rushed down in squalls, after having been
intercepted and checked by the high land. All the hills appear to
have been the craters of volcanoes: some are of sandy mud, others are
lava. There is plenty of wood hereabouts, though stunted and dry.
On no part of this shore is there a chance of finding water; all is
stony, without any soil which could either collect or carry it off.
Our party brought eighteen terrapin on board. In size they were not
remarkable, none exceeding eighty pounds. This animal appears to
be well defended by nature; but, in truth, it is rather helpless,
and easily injured. The shell is slight, and becomes weaker (in
proportion to the animal’s size), as the tortoise grows older.
19th. Sailed round the north-east extremity of the island, and worked
to the southward against a tide, or rather current, setting strongly
to the north-west.
20th. At daylight we were off the south-east part of the island; and
continued working to the south-west, during the forenoon, along a
shore quite bold, excepting the small rocks above water in ‘Middle’
Bay. At noon, seeing a small cove, I went in a boat to examine it,
and look for water. We found no signs of any in that place; but a
little farther west, a fine stream was seen falling from a lava
cliff, about thirty feet high. Mr. Low had described this waterfall
correctly; and his account of the watering place near it was soon
verified, by our discovering a cove half a mile to the westward of
the cascade. We landed on a stony beach in the cove, and found a fine
stream of excellent water: two others were likewise seen, but they
were inaccessible. This water runs from the highest parts of the
island (which are almost always enveloped in clouds) down a large
valley.[6] All this southern side of the island is well wooded; and
on the higher ground the wood is very green.
Continuing our course along shore, we arrived at our former anchorage
in Stephens Bay soon after dark, when Mr. Chaffers returned on board,
having reached the anchorage in the morning.
22d. So generally cloudy is the weather here, that a day such as this
proved to be, of hot, vertical sunshine, was much felt by every body;
and to show how objectionable our anchorage was in this respect, I
may mention that a fresh breeze was blowing all day in the offing;
yet in the bay only light variable airs were felt.
Some fine turtle were brought on board, the first we had seen here;
they are rather like the green turtle of the West-Indies, but not
exactly. Among the shells found about the islands one is common,
which reminded me of the purple murex, as the fish emits a strongly
dyeing liquid of a similar colour.[7] A kind of mangrove grows
near the water, on the sandy beaches of this island; and the shape
and colour of that curious tree are some relief to an eye tired of
looking at rugged lava or withered bushes.
23d. While becalmed we tried the clamms[8] in fifty fathoms water,
and brought up as much sand as would fill a bucket, but nothing
curious. Afterwards we had a breeze, and passed Barrington Island
pretty closely. It is not high, yet the shores are bold and fronted
by cliffs; the more elevated parts appear to be level, and rather
woody. This night was spent under sail between Charles and Hood
Islands.
24th. While we were endeavouring to reach the anchorage in
Post-Office Bay (Charles Island), Mr. Chaffers and Mr. Mellersh
went away in a boat to visit the islets that lie near the eastern
side of that island: and it was found that they had all been the
summits of volcanoes. Charles Island is peculiar in its outline:
for a succession of round topped hills, precisely similar in shape,
though differing in size, shews on every point of view. This exact
similarity is very remarkable. Must not all these volcanoes[9]
have been thrown up under the same circumstances, such as similar
action of the ocean, or even a strong wind--perhaps at the very same
time?[10]
The highest and largest of these hills rises 1,800 feet, the next
about 1,700; the rest are of various smaller heights. The northern
sides of the island are wooded, but the wood looks as brown as that
on the lower parts of Chatham Island. Post-Office Bay is sheltered,
easy of access, has excellent anchorage, and only wants fresh-water
to make it a most desirable harbour for shipping. Its name is the
result of a custom established by the whalers: a box was placed on
a post, to receive letters, and homeward-bound ships examined the
directions, taking with them all which they might have means of
forwarding; but since the island has been peopled the box has been
empty, for letters are now left at the settlement.
25th. Mr. Nicholas O. Lawson, acting for the governor of this
archipelago,[11] came on board. With him and me a party went to
another anchorage called Black Beach Road, landed, and walked up
towards the settlement. In 1832, the republic of the ‘Ecuador’
decided to use these islands as a place of banishment, and sent a
small colony to Charles Island. ‘La Floriana’ is the name given to
this island by the Guayaquilians, though by the Spaniards it was
once called ‘Santa Maria de l’Aguada.’ The governor, at the time of
our visit, was Don José Villamil. There were then about eighty small
houses, or huts, and nearly two hundred souls upon the island, most
of whom were convicts.
After walking rather more than a mile along a good path, through the
underwood (which as the ground rises becomes very thick), we reached
a small spring of water, near which are a few huts, but no cultivated
ground. The water from this spring might be conveyed to shipping by
means of leaden pipes, without much difficulty, but it is not of very
good quality. Having ascended gradually during another half-hour’s
walk, we reached the ridge of that height which limited our view
from the sea; when surprisingly sudden and agreeable was the change.
Heated and tired by a dusty uphill walk, through sun dried trees and
over rugged lava stones, our bodies were here refreshed by a cool
breeze, while our eyes enjoyed the view of an extensive, fertile and
cultivated plain. Surrounded by tropical vegetation, by bananas,
sugar canes, Indian corn, and sweet potatoes, all luxuriantly
flourishing, it was hard to believe that any extent of sterile and
apparently useless country could be close to land so fertile, and yet
wear the most opposite appearance. Our eyes having been accustomed
to the desert shores of Peru and northern Chile, during many months,
were completely dazzled by a sight so new and unforeseen.
It appears that rain falls very frequently on these higher grounds,
and is absorbed by rich black mould of a nature sufficiently clayey
to enable it to retain moisture. During the wet season this plain
becomes quite muddy, while the little rain that falls on the lower
ground is so quickly absorbed, or finds its way so soon through the
loose lava stones that its effects are not there visible.
Most of the houses are in this fertile space, but it appears that
a house on the dry ground, and plantations in the moist valley,
would answer better: for at Mr. Lawson’s house salt cannot be kept
dry, books and paper become mouldy, and iron rusts very quickly. At
his table we found the welcome of a countryman, and a variety of
food quite unexpected in the Galāpagos Islands, but fully proving
their productiveness. At the foot of a hill we saw water dropping
plentifully, and from this spring, called the “Governor’s Dripstone,”
the inhabitants obtain a certain supply throughout the year.
Although most of the settlers were sent here against their wish,
there are many who do not desire to return to the continent. Some are
married and have children on the island. In a small cave near the
“governor’s dripstone,” an old sailor lived during several years:
he had been unfortunate, and was tired of the world. Terrapin and
potatoes were his food, till a former friend, the master of a whaler,
recognised him, and carried him away by force. So strongly was the
old man attached to his cave, that he shed tears when taken away.
There are goats and hogs upon this island, but they are scarce and
wild, not having yet had time to increase much; they are hunted with
dogs, though it would be wiser to let them alone for a few years.
The settlers have abundance of vegetables, and depend chiefly upon
terrapin for their meat. Many of these animals being large and heavy,
the people who go in search of them kill and open them on the spot,
then take out the fleshy pieces and put them in a bag. Thus one man
can carry away the useful parts of more terrapins than several men
could lift.
The quantity of tortoise shells lying about the ground, shows
what havock has been made among these helpless animals. On the
lower ground, near the spring, I saw an apology for a garden, in
which the large terrapin shells were used to cover young plants,
instead of flower pots. In a place one has not seen before, some
marked peculiarity occasionally reminds one, more forcibly than the
ordinary novelties of scenery, that all around is strange and new.
The palm-trees and arid appearance of St. Jago, the sedan chairs
of Bahia, the boats of Rio de Janeiro, the beef carts of Monte
Video, the travelling waggons of Buenos Ayres, the ‘toldo’ of the
Patagonian, the wigwam of the Fuegian, the wooden houses and clogs
of San Carlos de Chilóe, the stockades of Valdivia, the effects of
earthquake at Concepcion, the concentrated bustle of Valparaiso, the
quiet and uniform serenity of Coquimbo, women riding astride and
troops of ill-used donkeys at Lima, are a few instances among the
multitude of such local peculiarities.
Small birds are numerous on this island, and so remarkably tame that
they may be knocked down with a stick. Lizards are also numerous; and
there are a few small snakes, but those we caught were not venomous.
Among the useful vegetables we noticed the plantain, pumpkin, yuca,
Quito orange, castor oil plant and melon, besides those before
mentioned.
Returning on board we met Mr. Stokes on his way from the southern
parts of the island: he described the lava thereabouts as having
such a form and rugged surface as the sea would present if suddenly
congealed, while ruffled by a very strong wind.
26th. After completing the necessary observations in Post-Office Bay,
we weighed and worked round to an anchorage off Black Beach: and at
nine in the evening Mr. Chaffers returned, having been round the
south side of this island after visiting the small eastern islets.
He found much difficulty in landing on them, but succeeded, and from
the top of Gardner Islet saw a dangerous breaker about a mile to the
south-eastward.
27th. Being Sunday, many of the officers and ship’s company were on
shore in the afternoon, and some of the officers went to the top
of the highest hill, which has a crater, as have all the hills we
examined about these islands; and these craters are all similarly
broken down on the side towards the south.
28th. Having taken on board live pigs and a quantity of vegetables,
we weighed and stood towards Albemarle Island. Four small islets, the
remains of volcanoes, lie near the low south-east extreme of this
island, and together with Brattle Islet, are extremely useful in
warning vessels of their approach to a very dangerous piece of coast.
So low are the south-eastern extremities of Albemarle Island that
they are not discernible until you see the surf on the shore. A heavy
swell setting towards the land, and generally light winds, add to the
danger of getting near this coast; but there is anchorage in case of
necessity.
Albemarle Island is a singular mass of volcanic ejections. Six
volcanoes have there raised their summits from two to four thousand
feet above the ocean, and from them immense quantities of lava have
from time to time flowed towards the sea; so that this island, large
as it is, may be literally described by saying that it consists of
six huge craters, whose bases are united by their own overflowed
lava. The southern side, which is exposed to the trade wind, and
completely intercepts it, with all the clouds it brings, is thickly
wooded, very green, and doubtless has fresh water; but how is that
water to be obtained where such a swell rolls upon the shore? The
weather side of Chatham Island is partially protected from the great
south-west swell of the Pacific by Hood Island, yet even there it is
difficult to land.
We passed this night under easy sail, off the south-west extreme of
Albemarle Island; and on the 29th we found a small cove, in which
we anchored; but such a wild-looking place--with such quantities
of hideous iguanas as were quite startling! Hence I despatched Mr.
Mellersh and Mr. King, to examine the depth of Elizabeth Bay, and
rejoin us beyond Narborough Island; we then weighed, and continued
our examination of this unearthly shore. Passing a low projecting
point, our eyes and imagination were engrossed by the strange
wildness of the view; for in such a place Vulcan might have worked.
Amidst the most confusedly heaped masses of lava, black and barren,
as if hardly yet cooled, innumerable craters (or fumeroles) showed
their very regular, even artificial looking heaps. It was like
immense iron works, on a Cyclopian scale!
When this lava flowed from the heights it must have been stopped
rather suddenly (cooled) by the water; for the lava cliffs are in
some places twenty, and in others forty feet high, while close to
them there is water so deep that a ship could not anchor there, even
in a calm while the sea is quite smooth. Until we rounded this point
the wind was very strong, eddying round the high south-west cape; but
here we were becalmed, and passed some anxious hours, till at length
light variable airs carried us off-shore.
30th. This morning we passed a remarkably fine American whaler, the
Science, carrying nine whale-boats! On the south-eastern height
of Albemarle, smoke was seen issuing from several places near the
summit, but no flame. Profiting by every breeze, we hastened towards
Tagus (or Banks) Cove.
Narborough Island is exactly like a part of Albemarle--a great
volcano, whose base is surrounded by an extensive field of lava: it
is utterly barren and desolate. A few mangroves, on the sandy beaches
near Albemarle Island, are not seen in the distance; neither are
there enough of them even to diminish the dismal appearance of the
island.
We entered the passage in the afternoon, and anchored in the little
cove first described by Capt. Pipon, who then commanded H.M.S. Tagus.
This cove is the crater of an extinct volcano, and its sides are so
steep as to be almost inaccessible.[12]
1st October. Our first object was to find water: none could be got
in the cove, but at a short distance from it a few holes were found,
out of which a bottle might be filled in an hour. Around this scanty
spring draining continually through the rock, all the little birds
of the island appeared to be collected, a pretty clear indication
of there being then no other fresh-water within their reach: yet
during the rainy season there must be considerable streams, judging
by gullies which are worn in the rock. All the heights hereabouts,
and the sides of the craters, are composed of sandstone that looks
like fine sandy mud half baked; but the low grounds are lava. The
crater in which we anchored gave me the idea of its having been a
mud volcano. The climate is very different from that of the Windward
Islands; for wind clouds and rain appear to be obstructed in their
northward passage, by the heights on the southern part of this
island. The heat is here far greater than in other parts of the
archipelago, and the land is more sterile. Numbers of another sort
of iguana were seen for the first time, and many were killed and
eaten. In size and shape they resemble the black kind, but their
colour is a dirty orange red, inclining to reddish brown above and
yellow beneath. These reptiles burrow in the earth like rabbits, and
are not bad eating. Of the black kind a vast number run about the
rocks near the sea, living either upon fish or sea-weed. As we went
afterwards in a boat along the ragged irregular shore, we saw numbers
of turtle. There are small sandy beaches here and there, to which
these animals approach in the evenings: when, as it gets dark, they
land and usually lie on the beach during the night, even if it is not
the season in which they seek a place for their eggs.
From a height near Tagus Cove dismal indeed was the view, yet deeply
interesting. To see such an extent of country overwhelmed by lava, to
think of the possible effects of the seven dormant volcanoes then in
sight, and to reflect that at some one period all was activity and
dreadful combustion where we then witnessed only silent desolation,
was very impressive.
2d October. We passed this day and the following night in Banks Bay.
On the 3d, Mr. Mellersh returned, having examined Elizabeth Bay
and the western shore of Narborough Island. We then went round the
north-west end of Albemarle Island, and passed the night under sail
off the north extreme. At daybreak, on the 4th, we made all sail
towards Abingdon Island, which is small, rather high, and tolerably
covered with stunted wood; we did not maintain a position even near
where I wished to pass the night, but were carried about forty
miles away, dead to leeward, during only a few hours of light wind.
The current hereabouts runs between one and four knots an hour to
the north-westward, yet the depth of the water is unfathomable by
ordinary means: excepting for which it is like a vast river in the
sea.
5th. While working to windward, endeavouring to regain our lost
ground, we saw Bindloes Island: and passed through many ripplings,
some of them dangerous for a boat; these were northward, and rather
eastward of Abingdon. During the 6th, other indications of a strong
current were noticed, besides ripplings such as these, which, in very
deep water, and in the open sea, are difficult to explain: sometimes
at night, while all around was smooth and tranquil--a short, deep
plunge suddenly startled every one: but in a minute afterwards the
ship was again quiet. We continued to work to the southward in order
to reach James Island, and meet Lieutenant Sulivan.
7th. While working to windward we saw Towers Island, which is
different in appearance from all the other islands of this
archipelago, being low and flat. We passed it about noon, and
Bindloes at sunset. The latter has an irregular hilly surface,
partially wooded, but like the rest is a mass of lava, and indurated
sandy mud.[13]
8th. The Beagle was close to James Island, a high, large, and
well-wooded tract of ground, or rather lava. We anchored at the
northern end, and a boat came alongside loaded with fish, for there
was a party of settlers here, detached from Charles Island, whose
employment was salting fish and extracting oil from terrapin.[14]
This oil is of a light colour, and exceedingly good quality, being
very like pure olive oil. Lieutenant Sulivan returned with his
party, and I then detached Mr. Chaffers in the yawl, accompanied by
Mr. Johnson and six men, to examine Bindloes, Abingdon, and Towers
Islands. As Mr. Darwin anxiously desired to see as much as possible
of the productions of this central and large island, he was landed,
accompanied by Mr. Bynoe, besides his servant and H. Fuller, to
remain until the Beagle’s return. Although there is abundance of
water on the higher parts of this island, so broken and dry are the
lower grounds that it does not arrive at the shore: at two places
only can enough water for even a boat’s crew be procured, in the dry
season; and for a ship there is scarcely hope of a sufficiency. The
poor fellows who brought us the fish had been living so long upon
terrapin, and the produce of their lines, without any thing else,
that half a bag of biscuit (50 lbs.) which we gave them, appeared to
be an inestimable treasure, for which they could not sufficiently
thank us. We sailed in the evening, but made very little progress
towards our destination (Chatham Island) this day (9th). The winds
appear to be much lighter and more variable, to leeward of the
archipelago, while the current is considerably stronger.[15] We got
pretty close to Chatham Island at dusk, worked to windward during the
night, and on the following morning stood along the weather shore
towards the watering place.
11th. How remarkably different is the climate of the windward and
leeward islands of this group! Here we were enveloped by clouds
and drizzling fog, and wore cloth clothes. At Tagus Cove and James
Island, a hot sun, nearly vertical, overpowered us;--while the
south side of Albemarle, Charles, and Chatham Islands, were almost
always overshadowed by clouds, and had frequent showers of rain. We
anchored close to the watering place: but it appeared strange to
remain at anchor in such a spot, only three cables’ lengths from a
surf breaking high upon a steep cliffy shore, with nothing but the
ocean between us and the antarctic; and such was our position; yet
it was a safe one, because the great south-west swell of the Pacific
is interrupted by Hood Island, and the southerly trade, or perennial
wind is so moderate, that it has neither power to raise a sea nor to
harm a vessel lying at anchor, if her ground tackle is not defective.
The 12th was spent in filling water, washing, cutting some wood,
and bringing thirty large terrapin on board. These animals abound
hereabouts; and some are very large, deserving the name of
elephant-tortoises. Two of our party tried to reach the higher
and thickly wooded part of the island, but found their task
impracticable, in so short a time as they could spare, for the wood
grows impenetrably thick, though none is straight or of a large size.
The upper grounds have a rich loamy soil, lying upon rock, in which
the terrapin wallow like hogs, and may be found by dozens. This was
a very hard day’s work for so few men as were then on board our
small vessel. (13th) We had some difficulty in ‘casting,’ so as to
clear the land, but got out of the scrape and were working towards
Hood Island when the man looking out aloft reported a breaker, which
proved to be on a rock at the west end of MacGowen shoal. When first
seen it was on the horizon, and hardly differed from the topping
of a sea;--once only in about ten minutes it showed distinctly. We
steered for it, lowered two boats, and employed the rest of the day
in examining this very dangerous shoal, and fixing its position.
One rock at the west end is just a-wash, but there is another under
water, except in the hollow of a swell, about half-a-mile to the
eastward, which is exceedingly treacherous. We had two narrow escapes
this day; while weighing from Chatham Island, baffling winds sent us
a great deal too close to the cliffs before our anchor was up, or the
ship under command; and while sounding along the edge of MacGowen
shoal we were drifted so close to the second rock, mentioned above,
that I was not sure on which side of us it lay.
[Illustration:
CHARLES ISLAND.
CHATHAM ISLAND.
WATERING PLACE.
_P. G. King._ _S. Bull._
ALBEMARLE ISLAND.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838.]
14th. Anchored and examined Hood Harbour, having heard there was a
sunken rock in it which our boat had not discovered, but we found
nothing dangerous for a ship. Shoal water and large blocks of lava
lie near the shore in the harbour; but a vessel must have stood too
close in if she touches thereabouts. Left Hood Island at noon, and
steered for the southern part of Charles Island. Having a fine breeze
we rounded Saddle Point at eight, and anchored at nine off Black
Beach.
15th. I went to Post-Office Bay and near the best landing place,
found some excellent salt, which though but small in quantity gives a
hint that more may be got elsewhere.
16th. Weighed in the afternoon, having obtained the necessary
observations, and went to Black Beach Road to take in wood, potatoes,
and pigs. We there found a small schooner at anchor, just arrived
from Guayaquil, and having, among other things, a bag of letters from
England, for the Beagle. That very evening we were to leave Charles
Island; not to return! In the schooner were some emigrants; who
brought cattle, and information that the governor, Villamil, might be
expected to arrive in a few days, with a vessel laden with animals,
and supplies for the settlement. We stood across, during the night,
to the four islands near Point Woodford; and at daylight next morning
(17th) resumed our usual occupations, while sailing along the east
side of Albemarle Island. At noon we steered for Albany Islet, to
embark Mr. Darwin and Mr. Bynoe; and after our party were on board,
we returned towards the shore of Albemarle Island, and there passed
the night under sail, in order to start early from a particular
position. Our landsmen had enjoyed their stay and profited by it,
though the heat was oppressive, and the sky nearly cloudless by night
and by day: how different was this from the weather we had had on
board! The higher grounds of James Island are extensive, and would
be adapted to cultivation if the wood, which now grows thickly, were
cleared. There is a fine salt spring, or lake, in an old crater; the
salt is excellent, in colour and quality: and the men employed by Mr.
Lawson were using it daily for curing their fish and terrapin.
When at some height upon the island, among the thick wood, it is
extremely difficult to find the way: men have been lost thereabouts,
and it is said that some of the bodies never were found. The day
we re-embarked Mr. Darwin there was a man missing, belonging to an
American whale ship, and his shipmates were seeking for him. The
master of this whaler was very obliging to our party, supplying them
with water, and offering his hearty assistance in any way which lay
in his power. The earnest wishes to be of use, and the attentions
of North Americans to us on all occasions, have been often and
gratefully remarked by many on board the Beagle.
18th. Continued our examination of Albemarle Island. When off the
northern volcano, the black streams of lava, which have flowed in
every direction down the sides of the mountain, looked like immense
streams of ink. Thence we steered for Abingdon Island to meet Mr.
Chaffers. I thought the current less strong, and setting more to the
west, than when I was here on a former day.
On the 19th we were close to Abingdon Island, where there is a fine
bold-looking cliff, at the west side, considerably higher than any I
had seen in the Galapagos. Mr. Chaffers soon came alongside after we
closed the land; when, his orders being all executed, the boat was
hoisted in, and we made sail to the north-west in search of Wenman
and Culpepper Islets.
Next day (20th) we saw and steered for Wenman Islet, another crater
of an extinct volcano. It is high, small, and quite barren: correctly
speaking, there are three islets and a large rock, near each other,
which, at a distance, appear as one island, but they are fragments
of the same crater. We afterwards passed Culpepper Islet, which is
a similar rocky, high, and barren little island. At sunset we made
all sail and steered to get well into the south-east trade wind, so
as to expedite our passage towards the dangerous archipelago of the
Low Islands, and thence to Otaheite (or Tahiti). While sailing away
from the Galapagos, impelled westward over a smooth sea, not only by
favouring easterly breezes but by a current that set more than sixty
miles to the west during the first twenty-four hours after our losing
sight of Culpepper Islet, and from forty to ten miles each subsequent
day until the 1st of November,[16] I will look back at those strange
islands, and make a few more remarks on them.
There are six principal ones, nine smaller, and many islets scarcely
deserving to be distinguished from mere rocks. The largest island
is sixty miles in length, and about fifteen broad; the highest
part being four thousand feet above the sea. All are of volcanic
origin, and the lava, of which they are chiefly composed, is
excessively hard. Old Dampier says,[17] “The Spaniards, when they
first discovered these islands, found multitudes of ‘guanoes’ and
land-turtle, or tortoise, and named them the Galapagos[18] Islands.”
Again, “the air of these islands is temperate enough, considering
the clime. Here is constantly a fresh sea-breeze all day, and
cooling refreshing winds in the night; therefore the heat is not so
violent here as in most places near the equator. The time of the
year for the rains is in November, December, and January: then there
is oftentimes excessive dark tempestuous weather, mixed with much
thunder and lightning. Sometimes before and after these months there
are moderate refreshing showers; but in May, June, July, and August,
the weather is always very fair.”[19] I can add nothing to this
excellent description, except that heavy rollers occasionally break
upon the northern shores of the Galapagos during the rainy season
above-mentioned--though no wind of any consequence accompanies them.
They are caused by the ‘Northers,’ or ‘Papagayos,’ which are so well
known on the coast between Panama and Acapulco. Colnett also gives a
good description of these islands:--in his voyage, p. 58, he says,
“I consider it as one of the most delightful climates under heaven,
although situated within a few miles of the equator.” The buccaneers
often resorted to them for refreshments, and as a place where they
might refit their vessels, share out plunder, or plan new schemes of
rapine, without any risk of being molested.
Striking instances of the manner in which high land deprives air of
its moisture may be seen at the Galapagos. Situated in a wind nearly
perennial, those sides only which are exposed to it (the southern)
are covered with verdure, and have water: all else is dry and
barren, excepting such high ground as the passing clouds hang upon
indolently as they move northward. In a similar manner may we not
conclude that western Peru is deprived of rain--since the easterly
trade wind which carries moisture, and consequent fertility, to
eastern Peru, is drained, or dried, as it crosses the Andes? And may
we not extend this reasoning to other countries similarly situated,
such as Patagonia, perhaps Arabia, and even Africa, upon whose arid
deserts no moist wind blows? Currents of air, moving from ocean to
land, convey vapour; but as these currents pass over high land, or
even a considerable extent of low country, much if not the whole of
their aqueous contents is discharged, and until such a body of air
has again acquired moisture, it is found to be dry, parching, and
unfavourable to vegetation.
All the small birds that live on these lava-covered islands have
short beaks, very thick at the base, like that of a bullfinch. This
appears to be one of those admirable provisions of Infinite Wisdom
by which each created thing is adapted to the place for which it was
intended. In picking up insects, or seeds which lie on hard iron-like
lava, the superiority of such beaks over delicate ones, cannot, I
think, be doubted; but there is, perhaps, another object in their
being so strong and wide. Colnett says, p. 59, “they observed an
old bird in the act of supplying three young ones with drink, by
squeezing the berry of a tree into their mouths. It was about the
size of a pea, and contained a watery juice, of an acid, but not
unpleasant taste.” “The leaves of these trees absorb the copious dews
which fall during the night; the birds then pierce them with their
bills for the moisture they retain, and which, I believe, they also
procure from the various plants and evergreens.” “The torch thistle
contains a liquid in its heart, which the birds drank, when it was
cut down. They sometimes even extracted it from the young trees by
piercing the trunks with their bills.” For thus squeezing berries,
and piercing woody fibre, or even only stout leaves, a slight thin
beak would be scarcely available. Colnett[20] observes, that some
of the birds which he saw resembled a few that he had seen at New
Zealand, but as he also remarks that all the dead shells which he
found upon the beach were familiar to him, I think one may suspect
the accuracy of his eye, if not his memory, in those instances.
Mr. Stokes made some notes about the tortoises (terrapin), while with
me, and as he and I are satisfied as to the facts, I will add them.
Fresh water was first discovered on Charles and on James Islands,
by following the terrapin paths. These animals visit the low, warm
ground to seek for food and deposit their eggs; but it must be a
toilsome journey indeed for them to ascend and descend the rugged
heights. Some that Mr. Stokes saw in wet, muddy places, on high
ground, seemed to enjoy themselves very much, snuffling and waddling
about in the soft clayey soil near a spring. Their manner of drinking
is not unlike that of a fowl: and so fond do they appear to be of
water, that it is strange they can exist for a length of time without
it; yet people living at the Galapagos say that these animals can go
more than six months without drinking. A very small one lived upwards
of two months on board the Beagle without either eating or drinking:
and whale-ships have often had them on board alive for a much longer
period. Some few of the terrapin are so large as to weigh between
two and three hundred weight; and, when standing up on their four
elephantine legs, are able to reach the breast of a middle-sized man
with their snake-like head.[21] The settlers at Charles Island do not
know any way of ascertaining the age of a terrapin, all they say is,
that the male has a longer neck than the female.[22] On board the
Beagle a small one grew three-eighths of an inch, in length, in three
months; and another grew two inches in length in one year. Several
were brought alive to England. The largest we killed was three feet
in length from one end of the shell to the other: but the large ones
are not so good to eat as those of about fifty pounds weight--which
are excellent, and extremely wholesome food. From a large one upwards
of a gallon of very fine oil may be extracted. It is rather curious,
and a striking instance of the short-sightedness of some men, who
think themselves keener in discrimination than most others, that
these tortoises should have excited such remarks as--“well, these
reptiles never could have migrated far, that is quite clear,” when,
in simple truth, there is no other animal in the whole creation so
easily caught, so portable, requiring so little food for a long
period, and at the same time so likely to have been carried, for
food, by the aborigines who probably visited the Galapagos Islands
on their balsas,[23] or in large double canoes, long before Columbus
saw that twinkling light, which, to his mind, was as the keystone
to an arch. Honest Dampier immediately reverted to the tortoises of
the West Indies, and of Madagascar,[24] when he saw those of the
Galapagos. He had observed too many varieties caused by climate,
soil, food, and habits, to entertain a doubt of their being other
than a variety of the tortoise kind. As to the ‘guanoes’ they were,
to his eye, familiar objects.
The currents about these islands are very remarkable, for in addition
to their velocity, which is from two to five miles an hour, and
usually towards the north-west,[25] there is such a surprising
difference in the temperature of bodies of water moving within a few
miles of each other, that this subject must be reserved for further
discussion. On one side of an island (Albemarle Island) we found the
temperature of the sea, a foot below the surface, 80°. Faht.; but
at the other side it was less than 60°. In brief, those striking
differences may be owing to the cool current which comes from the
southward along the coasts of Peru and Chile, and at the Galapagos
encounters a far warmer body of water moving from the bay of Panama,
a sort of ‘gulf stream.’ The retentive manner in which such ocean
rivers preserve their temperature has been frequently remarked: and
must have a great effect upon the climates of countries near whose
shores they flow.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Lat. 32°. 39′. S.: height, 23,000 feet above the sea level.
[2] Lat. 39°. 10′. S.: height, 16,000 feet above the sea level.
[3] Then consul-general, now chargé d’affaires of H.B.M. in Peru.
[4] Orders in Appendix.
[5] This glimmering haziness is at times a great impediment to
making accurate measurements of an object, when both it and the
observer’s eye are near the ground. Raising either some few feet
higher, remedies this inconvenience, which is much felt when using a
micrometer for measuring a base.
[6] There is no other place in the Galāpagos where ships can water at
all times of the year.
[7] Found also on the coast of Peru (Ulloa).
[8] An indifferent contrivance of mine, made and put together by our
own armourer.
[9] For volcanoes they certainly have been.
[10] See page 493.
[11] An officer of the republic of the Equator.
[12] In 1825 H.M.S. Blonde, commanded by Lord Byron, anchored here.
In her voyage (pp. 92, 93, 94) the black and the red (or brown)
iguanas are described, and it is stated that a specimen of the black
kind was brought to England from Mexico. Lord Byron saw a volcano
burning on Narborough Island.
[13] Of course much of the information given in these pages was
collected by the officers.
[14] They also salt the terrapin; or tortoise.
[15] It appears that the Norfolk Island of Colnett, is the north-east
extreme of Indefatigable Island.
[16] Lat. 10°. 14′. S. long. 120°. 35′. W.
[17] Dampier’s Voyage round the World, 1681-1691. (At the Galapagos
in 1684).
[18] Galāpăgo being Spanish for tortoise.
[19] During the rainy season, or from November to March (which is
not, however, at all to be compared to a continental rainy season)
there are calms, variable breezes, and sometimes westerly winds:
though the latter are neither of long duration, nor frequent.
[20] Colnett’s Voyage to the South Seas, pages 52, 55, 57.
[21] When their long necks and small heads are seen above low bushes
they look just like those of snakes.
[22] Their eggs were found in great numbers in cracks of a hard
kind of clayey sand; but so small were the cracks that many of the
eggs could not be got out without being broken. The egg is nearly
round, of a whitish colour, and measures two inches and a half in
diameter--which is about the size of a young one when first hatched.
[23] I have heard that driftwood, not the growth of these islands, is
frequently found on the south-east shores. On this subject Colnett
says (p. 58), “on several parts of the shore there was driftwood, of
a larger size than any of the trees that grow on the island: also
bamboos and wild sugar canes, with a few small cocoa-nuts at full
growth, though not larger than a pigeon’s egg.”
[24] Dampier, vol. i. p. 102.
[25] In the twenty-four hours immediately previous to first making
these islands, the Beagle was set fifty miles to the west north-west.