CHAPTER III

SOCIAL CONDITIONS

One afternoon I sat in a street-car of the Copacabana line running to

and from the heart of Rio de Janeiro city. As we approached the Avenida

and paused at a sharp turn at the regulator’s signal, a small boy poorly

clad in cotton clothes got on to the front platform with a dinner pail

in his hand. He set it down, removed his cap, and bent his knee as the

motorman, with a swift smile at the child, extended his right hand. The

boy respectfully kissed it, replaced his cap, and jumped down.

The little incident was typical of the wide spread of gentle manners in

Brazil; it is here usual enough to see elderly bankers kiss the hands of

their parents, but courtesy is not confined to cultured classes. One may

in Brazil depend upon a street cleaner as much as upon a senator for

chivalrous politeness. A stranger may address any passer-by in a

Brazilian street in the most execrable Portuguese and will almost

invariably receive serious and kindly attention: it is said that the

Brazilian with his agreeably poised attitude to life “laughs at

everything except a stranger who is speaking bad Portuguese.”

I do not mean that strangers are treated with special courtesy; good

manners are habitual. Brazilian men meeting each other in the street

half a dozen times in a day, lift their hats to each other: no one,

obliged to step past another closely on a street-car, but will raise his

hat and murmur “_Com licença!_” A woman walking down the narrow streets

of the older cities or older parts of the rejuvenated cities will always

find her path cleared by men who step aside into the road with hats in

their hands. If she happens to be very pretty looks will follow her and

whispers may, but in my opinion the ordinary woman with quiet manners is

safer in Brazilian towns than in most centres of population in the

world, may break all the small rules with impunity and may always depend

upon the grave kindness of the Brazilian. People of less punctilious

societies are apt to speak with a degree of contempt of “surface

politeness,” and to say that they prefer roughness and a good heart;

generally this kind of remark is a clumsy apology for boorishness, and

as a matter of fact a good heart is quite as likely to exist under a

courteous exterior as under a discourteous one; a habit of consideration

for others in speech and small actions is without doubt good training

for any variety of heart and head. The Brazilian is in his mental

attitude an inheritor not only of Latin tradition in general but of

French ideas in particular: Paris is his Mecca, French literature and

French science and French art the inspirers of his youth; more

cosmopolitan than the Portuguese born, because he is in close touch with

all Europe as well as with the Americas, quite minus the feeling that

makes the Spaniard love bull-fights, the Brazilian has grounds for his

claim as the brightest spiritual heir of Latinity. His excellent manners

are a part of his heritage.

Apparently, the very considerable additions to the Brazilian population

by immigration during the last hundred years have made little difference

to Brazilian society; it is true that the Englishman with his tennis and

football and his rowing-clubs has introduced and popularized sport, so

that today there are thousands of young Brazilians taking part in these

pleasures and it is true that the influx of artistic French in the

reigns of the two Emperors affected and stimulated sculpture, painting

and writing in Brazil; in each case these were entries into Brazilian

society, the new element arriving with a recognized status as members of

important firms or with a semi-official position. There has been family

mingling, many English and French choosing wives from distinguished

Brazilian families, and in this way the influence of European ideas

frequently has its effect on the education of the children of such

unions. To a less noticeable extent almost every nationality is found in

Brazilian society, for this is a country which has always welcomed the

stranger of distinction, but no race has impressed itself so firmly upon

national characteristics as the Franco-Latin. Immigration, properly

speaking, the systematic colonization with which São Paulo supplied her

coffee lands with labour and Rio Grande and Paraná settled their open

spaces, and Minas tried to supplant negro workers, has affected

Brazilian social conditions scarcely at all. Generally isolated in wide

areas, often with no communication with the outside world except by

mule-trail or river until the railway came a few years ago, the

organized colonies of Russians, Poles, Basques, Bessarabian Jews,

Japanese, Swiss and Germans lived their own lives, retaining perforce

the language and customs of the lands from which they came. The

Italians, employed on great _fazendas_, were more in contact with

Brazilian life than any other race, and even they keep their own speech

together with newly-learned Portuguese, eat Italian food and read

Italian-language newspapers printed in Brazil. Not until the development

of industry brings the colonies into closer contact with each other and

with Brazilian centres of old standing will the Galician and Arab affect

any society but of his own race. No attempt has been made, probably

wisely, to force these settlers into the Brazilian national communion;

they were needed to fill spaces, to bring land into cultivation and

develop the wasted resources of an enormous land: they have done Brazil

this service, and Brazil in return respects their feelings and

traditions. One reason for this lack of interference with the colonies

was that Brazil possessed little machinery which could have brought

about a marked change: but deliberate policy also entered into the

question. It was realized that a change would come about with the

passage of years, when the second or third generations grew and mingled

in a common society, Brazilians born and bred, and that meanwhile Brazil

was too big to fear the effect of these _nucleos_ with their strong

retention of foreign loves and habits. Broadminded enough to sympathize

with such feelings, the Brazilian knows that no man worth his salt

forgets his native land; his idea was expressed by the genial writer, J.

M. de Macedo, when, speaking of the French who made fortunes in Brazil

and returned with their savings to France, he said: “If it be a sin to

love one’s own country better than any other country, then am I a sinner

too!” It is in fact because the Brazilian has so keen a devotion to his

own beautiful land that he comprehends the home-love of the immigrant.

Class distinction still reigns in Brazil to a certain degree, as may be

expected in a land where slavery existed until twenty-eight years ago,

and which twenty-seven years ago still had an Emperor and a Court with a

retinue of nobles. These nobles retain their titles still, except in

cases where formal renunciation was made, but a provision was made at

the establishment of the Republic that they should not be inherited. It

is an example of the liberal spirit in which the break was made, and the

absence of ill-feeling towards the Empire, that Brazil thinks as much of

her Commendadores, Conselheiros, Barões, Viscondes and Condes as she

does of any newly distinguished _bacharel_ of today. Dom Pedro II gave

these titles, very often, in recognition of some special service to

Brazilian development, and it is for this reason that, encountering the

Conde de Leopoldina, we find him to be an Englishman surnamed Lowndes.

When the Princess Isabel (Condessa d’Eu) celebrated her seventieth

birthday in the summer of 1916 the Brazilian newspapers printed long

notices speaking with appreciation of her regencies over Brazil, and

acclaiming her act in freeing the slaves of 1888; a few months

previously a monarchical society held meetings in the capital, their

sayings and doings were reported in the public press without any

excitement, and the trend of editorial comment was, “Well, with the

republic in such a muddle, it is no wonder.”

It is needless to say that the restoration of a monarchy in Brazil is

quite unthinkable, and that the society’s existence is more interesting

than important, but I mention it to show the amused tolerance of the

Brazilian towards other people’s opinions. He has a detached, sometimes

cynical attitude, believes in frank discussion and the airing of ideas,

and together with a markedly democratic habit of life retains a European

respect for tradition and authority. In Rio, the intellectual centre of

Brazil, the influence of the administration is very strongly felt, and

it is the focus of interest and activity: the Brazilian takes a

passionate part in politics, criticizes the Government when and where he

thinks fit, but will never do anything to undermine the power and

prestige of the administration. With but one notable exception the heads

of the Brazilian Government have been men of such ability and force of

character that they have thoroughly earned the confidence of the

thinking classes. From the cultivated caste in Brazil is chiefly drawn

the political group: there have been exceptions, as in the case of

Pinheiro Machado, but as a rule the reins are in the hands of a distinct

social element, descendants of white Portuguese families and frequently

men of great intellectual strength. The names of the Visconde de Rio

Branco, Conselheiro Rodrigues Alves, João Alfredo and Affonso Penna are

but four out of a long list of statesmen of the first rank in Brazil.

The ruling classes are almost always great landowners, _fazendeiros_,

and there was a time when sons of such families destined themselves to

politics, agriculture or one of the “professions;” today commercial

careers are sometimes chosen—perhaps partly because the planter of

coffee or sugar is often necessarily a mill owner and shipper as well—as

Brazil becomes more industrialized, but although these young men may

enter other than the traditional spheres, it is seldom that theirs is

invaded from the world of industrialists or _commerciantes_. The latter

are, indeed, largely recruited from the foreign element; shop-keepers as

well as commission agents and dealers all down the coast were once

largely British and French, but now the energetic Portuguese-born

trader, with the keen Italian and Spaniard, and the still more

insinuating Syrian, has absorbed a marked proportion of the retail

business.

Below the commercial element comes that of labour, stratum of entirely

different composition; it differs too in varying localities, from that

of the south, where slavery tailed off in São Paulo, never penetrating

the more southerly states, and where white labour of immigrant origin

performs field work, to the central section where the _mestizo_ (mixed

blood) of white and Indian or, about Bahia and Pernambuco, white and

negro, blood is the worker; in and near Bahia itself thousands of

pure-blood negroes or mulattos form the labouring class, to the almost

total exclusion of any other. Farther north the negro element fades out

and the Indian mixture predominates in a wiry strain which furnishes all

the labour of the Amazon valley.

Upon this great mass of mixed-blood labourers the educational systems of

Brazil make a certain if slow impression. Intelligent and apt, docile if

conciliated and stubborn if crossed, the _mestizo_ has some excellent

qualities; the indolence of which he is often accused is sometimes want

of direction, and sometimes the result of ill-health in certain regions,

disappearing when the enervating malaria and ankylostomiasis are

conquered, exactly as in the South of the United States where the same

troubles are common. With better sanitation in the crowded warm regions,

and persistence in good schooling, the _brasileiro_ of the labouring

classes would not need supplanting with introduced immigrants. Between

him and the legislator there is a great gulf fixed; its existence might

be dangerous were not the habit of the Brazilian gentle; it can be

bridged only by education. “We have no organization for the expression

of popular opinion,” declared a Brazilian writer recently. “The

statesman, the government official, the legislator, the administrator

has to be a kind of powerful Jehovah, capable of creating worlds out of

nothing ... unless the bachelor (_bacharel_—“doctor”) president, the

bachelor governor, the bachelor minister or the bachelor deputy should

sally forth through Brazil (_saiam por esses Brazis afóra_), over

mountains and valleys, to enquire at the window of every farm, at the

door of every store, at the entrance of each factory, in each

lacemaker’s shop and at each blacksmith’s forge, what Agriculture,

Commerce, Industry and the Proletariat wish for their practical and

effective betterment....” At least it can never be said that the faults

and lapses of Brazil are not understood and discussed by her own

educated classes; there is no country where self-criticism is more

hearty. During the early part of 1916 a party of specialists in tropical

maladies from the Rockefeller Institute passed through Brazil and made

some investigations; one of the weeklies of Rio famous for its cartoons

and skits on public affairs remarked that the visitors need not have

come to Brazil to study malaria—they would find that in a hundred

places: they should study the troubles that were really peculiar to

Brazil. It gave an illustrated list: among the items was the “national

long tongue”—we talk too much; another was _bacharelismo_—everyone in

Brazil wants to be a “Doctor” of medicine or law or philosophy. It is a

disease not altogether limited to Brazil, despite the _Malho_.

Cartoons in Brazil have a point of interest in addition to their wit, in

the presentment of a national figure, “Zé (José) Povo.” Zé Povo is “the

people,” quite distinct from the dignified figure of the _República_, a

lady in draperies crowned with the Phrygian cap. Zé is the man in the

street who stands by and makes acid comments; he has no counterpart in

North American or English journals, but speaks his mind much as

“Liborio” does in the Cuban humorous-political papers. No one can say

that the press is not free in Brazil.

Industrial expansion in Brazil will be the great amalgamator of the

grades and divisions of the population; colonists of foreign origin

cannot continue to live in separate nests, commercial fortunes will

blend society, and the expansion of agriculture will sooner or later

mean the evolution of the _sertanejo_ into a modernized, trading farmer;

as the hills are opened for metals and the forests are entered for

hardwoods and dyes and latex, the millions of Indians of the interior

must be brought into line, or, retreating, eventually die out—the worst

solution of his case and probably an unnecessary one. But at the present

day there are many distinct types among Brazilian populations, and of

them that of the _sertanejo_, the farmer of the interior, the _sertão_,

is not the least interesting. Here on the wide uplands of the plateau he

lives very much as Isaac lived, his world about him, his home, servants

and herds his chief interests; simple, philosophic, intensely hospitable

although reserved and proud, he makes little money but by his cattle,

and wants little. His bodily needs are few, his furnishings of the

simplest; his food is mainly the inevitable _farinha de mandioca_, milk

products, beans (feijão) and eggs and _carne_. He may be the owner of

great expanses of land, but he will seldom sell or divide it and there

is no other life that he will endure and live. In touch with the open

sky, the broad horizon before him, the _sertanejo_ is of a class apart;

his is a simple and a dignified figure.

Brought to town, through acquisition of money or the wishes of his

womenfolk, the farmer of the interior is a peg for many witticisms of

the townsman; he is a “caipira,” a countryman, a hayseed, and endless

amusement is obtained at his expense. One of the Rio weeklies, the

_Careta_, once ran a series of illustrated adventures of such a farmer

who is supposed to come to Rio de Janeiro on a visit with his wife and

pretty daughter, and who takes in the “sights” of the Capital from the

countryman’s angle.

A simple _camaraderie_ prevails in the upland interior, where little

money passes and barter of goods is the most common form of exchange; it

is frequently impossible to hire labour, and as a consequence farmers

and their sons invite the help of their neighbours when field work is

needed, giving their own time in turn when occasion arises. No

distinction between rich and poor occurs in a society of such friendly

simplicity.

In the cattle regions there is a special ceremony every year, for

rounding and branding cattle, known as the _feira dos bizerros_ (calf

branding) and the _apartação do gado_—separation of herds, frequently

running with those of other _fazendeiros_ over unfenced country. All the

neighbours arrive at the farm which is thus counting its stock, families

making it an occasion of friendly reunion. During the evenings of the

two or three days of _festa_ there is a continual round of coffee

drinking and eating, many a marriage is arranged and consummated; at the

close of the work there is frequently a series of competitions of skill

in horsemanship, the clever performance of the _vaquejada_ or

_derrubada_ always exciting a critical audience. Horsemen, mounted on

well-trained animals, post themselves at the gate of the corral where

bulls have been shut up for a day or two; the bars are let down and when

the cattle rush out each of the horsemen tries to seize a bull by its

tail and throw it to the ground—success largely depending on the

cleverness of the horse in avoiding the rushes and struggles of the

bull. The last night is one of continual dancing and temperate feasting,

the flute and violin sounding until dawn. It is a little curious that

these instruments, with the guitar, are the favourites of the musical

peasantry of Brazil, and that the exquisite marimba of African origin,

carried by negroes into Central America and there enthusiastically

adopted by the Quiché-Cachiquel natives, should not have also found a

home in the southern continent.

Among the other figures of the _sertão_, created by the absence of

mechanical transportation in a series of great regions, is the

_tropeiro_, the leader and frequently the owner of a troop of mules

carrying the products of the interior to market. A good _tropeiro_ is

entrusted with the marketing of the cotton crop of a fazenda or even a

district, and he will carry cash for long distances, settling accounts,

making purchases; his mules are trained performers who know their work

and make themselves understood if there is anything wrong with one of

their number. In the north of the Brazilian promontory—Bahia,

Pernambuco, interior Ceará, Maranhão and Rio Grande do Norte as well as

the hinterlands of the central states, the _tropeiro_ undertakes the

transportation of much of the interior crop of cotton, sugar and

tobacco.

He is doomed to extinction as the steel arms of the railroads push out

into the interior, but his day is not yet done.

Public lotteries are to the Brazilian what horse-racing is to the

Englishman and baseball to the North American. It is a form of

excitement, with a chance of betting something and winning a great deal,

an interest apart from the ordinary round of business. Opinion is not

popularly opposed to the system in Brazil, any more than it is in, for

instance, Italy, and in like manner it is conducted by the Federal

Government, is a recognized source of revenue, and many charities and

other worthy institutions supported by the authorities derive their main

income from it. Few people express any adverse sentiments to these

regularized lotteries, but an amusing offshoot from it, illegal,

forbidden, pounced upon now and again by the police, generally denounced

by the press, and indulged in by everyone, is the famous _bicho_. A

_bicho_ is in Brazil any kind of animal or bird or insect—everything

living is popularly a _bicho_—and in this underground lottery groups of

numbers are represented by a deer or monkey, butterfly or tiger, etc.,

something more interesting than a bald set of figures. The _bicho_ was

of independent origin, with twenty-five animals represented, but

nowadays depends upon the government results, and is really a gamble on

a gamble, but with the advantage that combinations and groups can be

played on, and very small sums staked. You can stake a few pennies on

your favourite humming-bird again and again without feeling the loss

when the _anta_ persists in coming up instead, and there would be little

harm done did not servants sent to the market get the _bicho_ habit so

badly, together with shoe-shiners and waiters and all the working class,

that in its acutest form “playing on the _bicho_” becomes an obsession

equal to drug-taking. Tickets for the _bicho_ can be bought at many

newsdealers, in scores of shops, little banks and financial houses run

it, and some daily papers print pictures of the winning animals: it is

well not to stake more than a milreis or two, because while a modest

winning will be paid your gain of a conto would probably be met by the

assurance that the ticket-seller cannot pay. In such a case there is no

redress as the whole thing is illegal.

Its chief objection in the eyes of the authorities is that it does not

yield a public revenue, and that people spend, in the aggregate, more

money on the _bicho_ than on public lotteries which are sources of

governmental income. Nevertheless, denounced, raided, and occasionally

prosecuted, the _bicheiros_ continue to exist and to furnish a mild form

of excitement and adventure. I do not think that lotteries are more

objectionable originators of a thrill than cocktails and whiskies dear

to the Anglo-Saxon; in regard to heady liquors the Latin is universally

abstemious, and the rule is not broken in Brazil.

Rarely does the Brazilian born and bred drink anything stronger than

coffee, and this he takes, in little cups in the innumerable

_cafeterias_ of every city, many times a day. Since the established

price of a little cup of hot, very strong black coffee is but a _tostão_

(two U. S. cents) there is no great extravagance about this. At family

meals a little wine, generally imported from Portugal, France or Italy,

is on the table: since Rio Grande has been trying her hand at

wine-making the bottle may contain _vinho nacional_; in any case it is

sparingly used. The younger generation has taken to a limited extent to

the whisky introduced by the Britisher, the beer of the German, now very

well brewed in the country, and the cocktail of the newcomer of North

America, but he appears to drink these exotics more with a desire to be

in the fashion or a “good sport” than because he likes them.

[Illustration:

Monroe Palacio, on the Avenida Rio Branco, Rio de Janeiro.

Municipal Theatre, São Paulo City.

]

Deliberate drinking is almost confined to the _festas_ beloved of the

_mestizo_ and mulatto populations, especially celebrated in agricultural

districts, when the Brazilian-made _cachaça_, a kind of rum made from

sugarcane, is liberally consumed. Its festive use seems to be a survival

of Indian custom, for the natives of the coasts and forests in

pre-Portuguese days made a fermented liquor (from _milho_ = maize) for

special occasions, and their descendants as well as the negro element,

also great lovers of celebrations, regard an occasional period of

revelry as a right. The influence of Christianity has succeeded in

identifying these festal occasions with, and confining them to, saints’

days and other Church celebrations, but their root is more primitive.

Religion in Brazil has never been a matter for dissension or the cause

of social upheaval: the original _donatarios_ brought chaplains with

them as a matter of course, missionary Jesuits and members of

Franciscan, Benedictine, Dominican and other Orders gradually founding

establishments in the settlements. With regard to the natives their task

was easy, since there existed no definite religion to be eradicated,

and, except when the work of the missionaries interfered with the

designs of the planters, cordial co-operation existed between the

_padres_, colonists, and authorities; many of them had a hand in

political matters, were emissaries between the mother country and

Brazil, and enjoyed marked prestige. No Inquisition was ever established

in Brazilian territory, and a bone of contention thus avoided. With the

erection of the Republic in 1889 Church was separated from State,

probably much to the betterment of conditions, for considerable

criticism of clerical ways and habits had grown up, laxity following

upon security; put upon her mettle as an independent organization, and

faced with the competition of other permitted forms of belief, the Roman

Catholic church in Brazil is said to have performed much needed

purifying.

Tolerance is a long-established habit. Protestant forms of Christianity

exist undisturbed, and although their temples are very generally

attended exclusively by the foreign congregations responsible for their

origin, and proselytizing is not encouraged, their social work is

undoubtedly useful. In the southern organized settlements each community

practises the form of faith of the home land, the Russians of the Greek

church, Germans with their Lutheran establishments, and so on; there is

not the slightest interference—religious intolerance is indeed

unimaginable in Brazil. It has been said often of the Brazilian that

this attitude arises from indifference, that the practice of religious

observances is left to women and children and that the grown men of

communities are cynical—next door to what used to be called

“agnosticism” by the professional European unbelievers of the past

generation. This is, I think, only apparently true. It has an appearance

of truth in that the churches are largely filled with women; it is

common for Brazilian men in conversation to affect an airy amusement

before the claims of religious bodies: but due allowance must be made

for French influence. Almost up to the time of the European War there

was a parade of emancipation from clerical leading strings by the

intellectual French, yet the course of the conflict has witnessed a

spiritual awakening, the resurrection of something dormant; the France

of today is probably more sincerely religious than she has been for many

a century. The cynicism of masculine Brazil may be no more deeply

rooted.

As in France, there is in Brazil no reaching out after new religions

comparable to the tendency in the United States which is so curious an

indication of emotional phases: it is impossible to conceive Brazilian

reception of Mormonism or Zionism, for instance. The only notable

example of serious adoption of a new faith is found in the extreme

South, where the principles of August Comte have taken root, and the

_riograndense_ of the educated ruling class is generally a Comtist.

In certain of the older, more northerly towns of Brazil the proportion

of Roman Catholic churches to the population is remarkably large,

particularly in Bahia, Pernambuco and its elder sister, Olinda. That

they are able to exist is largely due to the negro and mulatto element,

for here as in all other parts of the world where he has been taken the

negro is a fervent admirer of almost any kind of religion. It is the

swarming coloured people of Bahia, crowded in the cobble-paved,

half-lighted rookeries of the lower town and the tilted streets leading

to the upper town, who make it possible to keep open the doors of that

city’s four hundred churches. In these centres all the many saints’ days

are kept with fervour, but it is in the interior that tradition and a

simple faith in “white magic” survive; here that the ceremonies of All

Hallowe’en are performed by maids of the sertão, and spells invoked. St.

John’s is one of the popular days, with its legends and traditional

celebrations, when groups of boys and girls, mingling on this occasion

as youth of Latin inheritance does not often mingle, crowned with leaves

and flowers, go down to the river banks to wash, singing as they go,

because as the verse says: “Nessa noite é benta a agua. Pará tudo tem

virtudes.” Fires are lighted outside each house in homage to St. John,

and at these green corn is roasted—the traditional _milho assado na

fogueira_. Over the hot ashes of these fires the faithful walk barefoot

without being burnt....

On this night lovers make their tests of the fidelity of the sweetheart,

and girls try to discover their fate in marriage; St. John, however, is

not the only aider of candidates for matrimony—there is “São Gonçalvo,”

a great lover of lovers, and St. Anthony, famous in North Brazil for his

power in binding uncertain swains. A well-used prayer to this saint is

quoted by Pereira da Costa in his _Folklore Pernambucano_ and begins:

“Father St. Anthony of Captives, you who are a firm binder, tie him who

wishes to flee from me; with your habit and with your holy girdle hinder

the steps of Fulano as with a strong cage....”

St. Raymund is another helper of solitary maidens, and a guaranteed

prayer of noted efficiency is addressed to him; translated freely it

runs:

Miraculous Saint Raymund,

You who help everyone to marry,

Please tell Saint Anthero

That I wish to be married soon

To a very good-looking young man,

In the church of Saint Benedict.

Before the altar of Saint Rosa

I want to give my hand as a wife

To him whom I love so much,

Asking Saint German

And also Saint Henry

That I shall be happily married.

May Saint Odoric permit

That the young man be rich,

And Saint Augustine grant

That he loves me very much

And I beg Saint Robert

That he may be clever.

Also I pray Saint Vincent

That the wedding may be soon,

Begging Saint Innocencia

Not to let me lose patience,

And asking Saint Caetano

That it may happen this year.

I have already prayed Saint Inez

Not to let this month pass,

And Saint Mariana,

That it may be this week—

And I beg the Virgin Our Lady

That it may be this very hour!

From which it will be seen that the saints are expected to be useful,

and that _festas_ of the church are agreeable to these young people,

leading in the older centres a rather restricted social life.

Women in Brazil occupy a position out of which they have been forced or

have voluntarily emerged in many countries. It is for many reasons a

very happy life, for, withdrawn as she is, the Brazilian wife and mother

has complete authority over the wide sphere which tradition has so long

assigned to her. It is a moot point whether women in other lands would

seek emergence from that circle if circumstances did not send them from

it; the salary-earning women of Western Europe and North America perhaps

do not always realize that theirs is not altogether a choice between

home and independence, that they work because they must work. The

exigencies of climate, as well as modern education, send women out to

the ranks of the workers in lands where there are at least as many women

as men.

In Brazil there is no such equality of numbers. The list of men is

always much longer than that of women, chiefly because of the stream of

male immigrants who arrive in the country without families, and, earning

good wages, set about the acquisition of a home. The predominant classes

of such immigrants are Portuguese, and these men, speaking the same

language and with close affiliations to Brazil, readily seek wives among

the Brazilian families to which their status gives them entry. Little

social adjustment is needed in such unions, much less than in the case

of the marriage of Brazilian girls with foreigners of a totally

divergent origin.

The Brazilian girl is said to be precocious, and she is certainly the

possessor of tactful manners and distinct aplomb in her early teens. If

she is a member of a wealthy family she has generally spent some years

in French schools, and it is not unusual to find beautiful young women

of nineteen or so who have been educated in Germany, France, Switzerland

and England, and who speak four or five languages fluently. All educated

Brazilians speak and read French, most of them understand but will not

speak English, and nearly all those from the more southerly parts of

Brazil have learned German for commercial reasons or have been partly

educated in Germany. Educational affiliations with the United States are

new, and apply to young men more than to girls; technical training in

engineering or trading is sought increasingly in North America for

business reasons as commercial exchange develops, but the closely

guarded, often conventual training of the girls has a very different

aim. The young Brazilian girl is frequently a good horsewoman, for life

on a farm is almost sure to be included in the tale of her early years;

she is often also a good swimmer. Music is an invariable part of her

education on which stress is laid, and I have heard some brilliant

executants among Brazilian women. Dressed in the height of Parisian

fashions, chic, demure outside her family and full of gay camaraderie

with her endless lines of brothers and sisters inside the home, the

Brazilian young girl is a very charming creature. She has the loveliest

dark eyes in the world, and often possesses a very fine clear pale skin.

Married, she seems to resign herself contentedly to a purely domestic

life; one enters homes in Brazil whose handsome hostess entertains

delightfully, always exquisitely dressed, and sparkling with the big

diamonds that are considered the simple right of every woman in Brazil—

my washerwoman in Rio had a pair of brilliant earrings that cost three

contos of reis, representing her life’s savings—but this same smiling

hostess will never be seen outside her spacious home and gardens, except

upon the formal occasions when she is obliged to make an appearance in

public with her husband. She not infrequently displays a tendency to

_embonpoint_ early in life, the result of lack of exertion and the

eating of the extraordinary and delicious _doces_ (sweets and candies),

the creation of which is a special art of Brazilian women, but she does

not mind this at all, fearing a thin figure as the most terrible of

disasters in this land where the highest compliment paid to a woman is:

“How pretty and fat you are getting!” _Gorda_ and _bonita_ are indeed

interchangeable terms.

She accepts her destiny as a mother of many children, and generally

spoils them badly, at least in their infancy; the father is equally

indulgent. A harsh parent is a _rara avis_, and nothing excites popular

indignation in Brazil more than any story of hardship in which children

are concerned. Passionately devoted to her babies, the Brazilian mother

stays within her home, is the gracious sovereign of her circle, and

seems little disturbed when it expands notably. This expansion is likely

to happen if any relative either on her side or her husband’s falls upon

evil days; in that case he will come with his family and camp out until

fortune smiles again. There is no turning of the cold shoulder upon poor

relations in Brazil—they are welcome to a share of the family fare, and

to hammock space if beds are lacking in the case of poorer homes, secure

in the knowledge that they in turn will repay this good deed with

similar ones later on. The city centres have of course their more rigid

social laws, but in the less restricted life of smaller towns or

_fazendas_ there is often encountered another variation from the harsher

rules of some other lands: this is the placid acceptance into a home of

children who do not claim the mistress of the house as mother, but who

receive from her bed and board and a status little inferior to that of

her own babies, regular members of society. Lapses from social law occur

all over the world; they are punished to a greater or lesser degree

everywhere, but in some countries the innocent suffer more than the

guilty; unhappy and unwanted children bear a stigma against which they

rebel in vain. Brazilian opinion does not spare offenders, but it does

withhold any harsh hand from innocent children. Acknowledged and treated

with affection, they are given a chance in life together with the more

fortunate.

Life in the two chief cities of Brazil, Rio and São Paulo, takes its hue

from the European capitals with which they are closely in touch, and

from which they have derived mental food for many a generation. There is

little about either of these fine cities, apart from the hot summers,

the brilliant vegetation, their remarkable cleanliness and the Southern

Cross overhead, to distinguish them from European cities; the clothes,

amusements, buildings, and literature of the population is predominantly

European, and there is not much to remind the visitor that he is in

tropical South America. Rio is the “intellectual centre” of Brazil, and

here are gathered the scores of good writers and poets, the artists and

politicians, of the country; there is a profuse and characteristic

literature. If the North American writer was correct in saying that

“American literature is only a phase of English literature,” he would

have been equally justified in saying that South American literature is

a phase of French literature: yet in Brazil this would have less truth

than in most parts of Latin America, because this country has so largely

developed a series of writers who take native Brazilian life for their

theme. There are long lists of Brazilian novels and poems which really

reflect Brazil conditions in the very varied sections of the country; I

know no other South American country whose literature is so emancipated,

not from French style so much as from European subject matter. There is

for instance the excellent work of the Visconde de Taunay, whose

charming _Innocencia_ is a picture of interior conditions, and has been

translated into almost every language, not excepting Japanese. The books

of José de Alencar form another series of provincial pictures; Machado

de Assis wrote a number of historical novels of great merit and

interest; Coelho Netto, Aluisio de Azevedo, J. M. de Macedo, Xavier

Marques, are among a score of names of writers who have left records of

Brazilian life. If I were advising the study of a brief list of such

novels, this would be a preliminary dozen:—

_Innocencia_: by the Visconde de Taunay. Novel of _fazenda_ life in

the interior—a delicate and touching story.

_Os Sertões_: by Euclydes da Cunha. Powerful and vivid description of

a page of national history, with a setting in the interior

Brazilian uplands.

_O Sertão_: by Coelho Netto. Scene also laid in the interior, with its

simple customs.

_O Mulato_: Aluisio de Azevedo. Deals with the position of the negro

half-caste in Brazil.

_O Gaucho_: José de Alencar. Life of the Brazilian cowboy.

_Os Praieiros_: Xavier Marques. Life of the fisherfolk on islands near

Bahia.

_O Paroara_: Rodolpho Theophilo. Exodus of the Cearenses to the rubber

forests of the Amazon.

_Maria Dusá_: Lindolpho Rocha. Story of diamond hunters in the

interior of Bahia.

_Braz Cubas_ and _Quincas Borba_: Machado de Assis. Historical novels

dealing with colonial life.

_Esphynge_: Afranio Peixoto. Social life of Rio and Petropolis, or

_Dentro da Noite_ or _Vida Vertiginosa_, by “João do Rio,” also

social life of the Capital.

There are also the finely written novels of Brazil’s woman writer, Julia

Lopez de Almeida, whose _Fallencia_ is a very skilful piece of work; and

no study of Brazilian life would be complete without José Verissimo’s

_Scenas da Vida Amazonica_, preserving tales and legends of the Amazon,

and the kindly _Memorias da Rua do Ouvidor_, of J. M. de Macedo, telling

tales of the early days of Rio de Janeiro.

Poets are many. The “Prince of Brazilian poets,” acclaimed by public

vote, is Olavo Bilac, whose _Via Lactea_ is a beautiful work: he is one

of the most distinguished members of the Academia Brasileira, whose

President is the publicist and orator of international fame, Senator Ruy

Barbosa.

Olavo Bilac is something more than a poet; he has recently made it his

mission to sound a “call to arms,” addressed to Brazilian young men,

with the object of bringing about physical and moral improvement through

military service. His addresses in the capitals in 1915 made a great

stir: he later, in the middle of 1916, began a tour of Brazil,

penetrating into interior regions as well as visiting coast towns, to

repeat his appeal. A most admired and beloved poet, Bilac has prestige

which few other people could bring to such a self-appointed task.

After Bilac comes Alberto de Oliveira, and a long list of other

dexterous versifiers; many produce charming poems, and he who wishes to

have an acquaintance with classical Brazilian verse must read the output

of Gonçalves Dias, who took the life of the Indians for his theme, as

well as that of the lyric writer Gonzaga and the graceful Claudio da

Costa.

Brazil also has a national stage. I know of no play of first-class

importance, but there is an active supply of native Brazilian actors and

actresses, and if their work is generally that of playing in the

home-made _revistas_, and if these _revistas_ are not very high art, at

least they are genuinely Brazilian, and often extremely amusing. I

suppose that on the stage, as in the pages of the Brazilian press, there

is a limit beyond which the libel law would become active, but I cannot

imagine where it is drawn; the audience rocks with laughter when

well-known political personages are caricatured upon the stage—as they

are lampooned in the press—and no notice appears to be taken of whatever

alludes to matters of intimate family concern. Nobody in the public eye

is exempt, and the result is that Brazil possesses a lively, home-made

stage which is at least a beginning in dramatic craft.

Brazil has an exuberant press. There is a large number of dailies and

weeklies in proportion to the population, many of the smaller journals

existing to serve the purposes of some special movement, colony, or

party, and there are many technical periodicals of varying merit. Grace,

pungency and a frequently merciless frankness are the chief

characteristics of the free-lance sections of the Brazilian press,

although there are certain staid and conservative journals whose dignity

never deserts them. The first of all Brazilian newspapers was a little

sheet started in Rio, soon after the arrival of Dom João, by Frey

Tiburcio; it was practically a Court Journal. Two of its notable

antagonists later on were the _Tamoyo_ and the _Sentinella_. All of

these early periodicals died a natural death, the newspaper of longest

continual publication in Brazil being the _Diario de Pernambuco_.

The premier newspaper in Brazil, which is also perhaps the best in South

America, although it has a formidable rival in the Argentine, is “o

velho,” the famous _Jornal do Commercio_, the semi-official, powerful,

wealthy, and most excellent daily of Rio, with a circulation all over

Brazil and reaching out as well to most parts of the educated world. It

is a great paper in all senses of the word, is finely printed—this great

sheet, often with thirty-two and sometimes eighty big pages, eight

columns wide, printed in a language requiring the “til,” “cedilla,”

acute and circumflex accents, constantly employed, comes out day after

day almost without any typographical errors. Its reviews of commercial

affairs are made with authority; it is remarkable for having no

editorials, anything that needs to be said editorially appearing in the

“_Varias Noticias_;” months may pass without this column containing more

than chronicles of official acts and movements, but when the _Jornal_ is

moved to speak its voice comes in no uncertain tone. Its denunciations

and pronouncements are discussed like a Papal Edict in the Middle Ages.

Anyone who reads the _Jornal_ day by day, with its pages of European

telegrams, its excellent letters from world capitals, its fine literary

and political essays, its _Publicações a pedido_ where every kind of

public or private matter is thrashed out, often to the great

entertainment of the reader, knows everything that is going on in

Brazil, is well up in European news, but will hear only faint echoes

coming from North America and these as a rule only when some

distinguished Brazilian happens to be travelling there, and cables are

sent south dealing with his sayings and doings. When I have enquired the

reason for this lack of news from North America the reply has generally

been that the news services are responsible: that the arrangements made

with certain European agencies cannot be duplicated. It seems as if this

is a matter needing thoughtful attention, for it is obvious that the

Brazilian cannot be so deeply interested in a country about which he

hears practically nothing as about others which present even trivial

domestic news to him in long cables every day. The same lack occurs, of

course, in the United States in regard to Brazil; if accurate, frequent

information were disseminated we should not read that “in the states of

Paraná and Santa Catarina, in Brazil, the entire population subsists on

bananas as food and are famous for their strength and endurance,” or

that (an item of early October, 1916) “the Brazilian coffee crop is

estimated at 11,000,000 bags, the greatest ever harvested and three

million bags bigger than last year’s crop,” nor should we see the “Girl

from Brazil” represented upon a New York stage dressed, and comporting

herself, much like a Carmen, and speaking Spanish; or read tales

repeated in the press of the “little republic of Coanani” near the

Guiana boundary in Brazil which has “sent its army to fight on the side

of the Allies.” With the United States as Brazil’s best customer, and,

at least for the present, Brazil’s greatest supplier, there should be

better channels of interchange not only of information but ideas; there

should be room for a Brazilian journal in New York—there is one in

Paris—and for a Bureau of Information with exhibits, something on the

lines of the existing Bureau in the French capital, where Brazilian

hardwoods, cotton, precious stones, fibres, ores, etc., are on view. The

Pan-American Union, as well as other organizations and publications with

the Pan-American object in view, do sincere and arduous work which has

borne much industrial and social fruit, but their labours are

necessarily spread over a great field: nor can Consuls do everything,

however energetic. Brazilian interchange with North America is quite

important and promising enough to merit a special news service.

Other strong Brazilian newspapers published in Rio are _O Paiz_, _O

Imparcial_, _O Correio da Manhã_ issued in the morning, with a host,

including _A Platea_, _A Tarde_, _O Noite_ and the afternoon edition of

the _Jornal do Commercio_, issued any time after mid-day: the latter has

had a wonderful war-review series of articles running since 1914. Very

many papers of the Brazilian press, like the major part of the

non-German Brazilian people, are strongly pro-Ally, and particularly

pro-French, and have no hesitation in declaring their feelings, as

witness the “Liga Brasileira pelos Alliados” formed by some of the

foremost men of the country, but in the case of the war articles of the

afternoon _Jornal_ there was a serious attempt at impartiality. It was

possible thus to read first a criticism of the war-telegrams of the day

showing that a distinct advantage had accrued to the Allies, while

printed just below would be another analysis by a second contributor,

demonstrating that the news was distinctly favourable to the Teutonic

forces.

Also published in Rio are many technical papers, medical and engineering

periodicals, etc., and some of the gay illustrated weeklies of very free

speech, as _O Malho_, _A Careta_, _Fon-Fon_; also the _Revista da

Semana_, a society paper. There are French, Italian and German papers,

but the great home of a polyglot press is São Paulo, with its groups of

immigrants. Here the oldest Brazilian paper is the _Correio Paulistano_,

sixty years established, a daily morning paper; another in the same

class and perhaps the most widely read is the _Estado de São Paulo_,

while the _Commercio de São Paulo_[5] also has a high reputation. The

_Estado_ runs an afternoon edition, and there are many other evening

papers—the _Diario Popular_, _Naçao_, _Gazeta_, etc. For the Italian

population there is the daily morning _Fanfulla_, the afternoon

_Giornale degli Italiani_ and the weekly _Italiano_. Germans have the

morning _Diario Alemão_ and the weekly _Germania_. Two French weeklies

seem to do well, the _Messager de S. Paul_, and the _Courrier Français_.

There is a Spanish _Diario Español_, two Turkish papers, and in the

colonies outside the city there are said to be Russian and Japanese

sheets published. The city of S. Paulo counts eighty journals, the State

counting over two hundred dailies and weeklies.

Rio and S. Paulo are the two chief literary centres, but every town of

any size in Brazil has its newspaper. Of these perhaps the most

important are the Pernambuco papers; the _Diario de Pernambuco_, already

mentioned, bears the proud inscription of its age in conspicuous

lettering on the front of its building in a square in Recife; it is a

very good paper, and so is the _Jornal do Recife_, among several other

daily sheets. Bahia has the _Diario de Bahia_ and _Diario de Noticias_,

amongst others, and the State Press here also publishes daily an

excellent _Diario Official_.

Pará has quite a variety of papers, the _Estado de Pará_ and the _Folha

do Norte_ probably the two most powerful. Manáos also supports several

newspapers, of which the _Jornal do Commercio_ and _O Tempo_ appear to

be most widely read.

Many imported foreign periodicals have a ready sale in Brazil, as the

French _L’Illustration_, many Portuguese publications, and the _Blanco y

Negro_ of Madrid; nearly all the English serious reviews and illustrated

weeklies are sold, and there is an increasing demand for illustrated

North American periodicals of good class. Altogether Brazil has a

remarkably cosmopolitan class of readers and therefore a cosmopolitan

press.

Almost all the Brazilian authors of note have, at one time or another,

contributed to the great _Jornal do Commercio_; this is really the

cradle of much fine writing. Founded in 1827, it is today housed in a

splendid building on the corner of the famous Rua do Ouvidor and the

Avenida Rio Branco, the building and press equipment costing over half a

million dollars.

Linked with the life of the _Jornal_ for the last twenty-five years is

that of José Carlos Rodrigues, Director from 1890 until his retirement

in 1915; a great student and great organizer, possessed of international

prestige, José Carlos was the moving spirit of the newspaper for a

generation. He is one of the eminent figures in modern Brazilian life.

At seventy-two years of age he is completing his _Vida de Jesus_, fruit

of long years of research.

José Carlos Rodrigues is one of the constructive Brazilians. There have

been many others, as the great Andrada brothers, Campos Salles, the

Visconde de Rio Branco and his son, the Barão; Varnhagen (Visconde de

Porto Seguro), politician and historian; Joaquim Nabuco, writer,

ambassador, and instigator of slavery abolition—as were also several

fine men still alive, as Rodrigues Alves, the great Paulista.

Of modern Brazilians to whom the country owes a debt there are none with

more claim to gratitude than Dr. Oswaldo Cruz, who banished yellow fever

from coast towns once notorious for their unhealthiness, and Colonel

Rondon, who has devoted his life to the opening-up of the Brazilian

interior, and besides mapping, charting, and creating telegraphic

communication throughout the hinterlands of Matto Grosso, has brought

whole tribes of wild Indians into civilized ways of living.

Among the elements which comprise and influence Brazilian social

conditions, that of the Portuguese of course stands first, for as Ruy

Barbosa said the other day, “Americans are descendants not of Apaches,

but of Anglo-Saxons; not of Guaranis, but of Latins.” The Indian

admixture has left little traceable influence but that of physical

hardihood. The extreme south of Brazil, as we have already seen, has had

during the last century an enormous influx of European white blood other

than Portuguese, chiefly Italian and Germanic, while all the large coast

cities are noticeably impregnated with more or less foreign elements. In

the interior of the northern promontory a noticeable feature is the

blonde average of the population, partly an inheritance from the days of

Dutch control and partly from that of French settlement. Among the

groups of unhappy _retirantes_ from the drought districts, encountered

in the streets of Pará and Manáos, waiting for shelter and work, there

are often to be seen people with fair hair and blue eyes who might have

come direct from Amsterdam or Brittany.

On the coastal belt of the lower half of the northern promontory there

is another very strong admixture, that of the negro. Frequently the

Brazilian shakes his head over this element, but occasionally the

cudgels are taken up in its defence. The author Sylvio Romero says

frankly that the European was not, in early colonial days, “strong

enough to repel the native savage and cultivate the soil, and so

resorted to that powerful auxiliary, the negro of Africa ... the ally of

the white men.” He calls the negro “a robust civilizing element,” and

says that from the close association of slavery sprang the mixed-blood

descendants, who constitute today “the mass of our population and the

chief beauty of our race.”

“Still today,” he declares, “the most beautiful feminine types are these

agile, strong, brown-skinned girls with black eyes and hair, in whose

veins run, although well diluted, many drops of African blood.... The

coast of Africa civilized Brazil, said one of our statesmen, and he

spoke truth; the negro has influenced all our intimate life and many of

our customs are transmitted from him. It is sufficient to remember that

the only genuine Brazilian cooking, the _cozinha bahiana_, is entirely

African. Many of our dances, songs and popular music, a whole literature

of ardent outpourings, have this origin. It is unfortunate that this

energetic race should have suffered the brand of slavery; we should make

a vow to revindicate its place in our history. There are means of

utilizing the negro without degrading him.”

Sylvio Romero adds that “all the first-class people of Brazil have white

blood, either pure or mingled with that of another race,” but that the

white element should do justice to the degree to which the black has

been a mental, political, economic and social factor. He traces, in a

little book of which I found a stray copy on a bookstall in Manáos

market, the negro element in the folklore of Brazil (_Contos Populares_,

Rio de Janeiro) as well as that of the native Indian, and makes the

point that both Indian and negro are “inarticulate” in Brazilian

society, except through the medium of a language foreign to their ideas,

Portuguese, which has undoubtedly coloured their mental expression.

These Folk-tales of Sylvio Romero’s collection, as well as those

preserved by Couto de Magalhães in his _Selvagem_, are delightful tales,

many hinging upon the adventures of various wild animals, and frequently

displaying a decided streak of humour not unlike that of the “Uncle

Remus” negro tales of North America.

At least one negro poet of Brazil has a claim to fame—Cruz e Souza; the

sculptor Pinheiro was also chiefly of African blood; José de Patrocinio,

who worked hard for the abolition of slavery and stood by the chair of

Princess Isabel when she signed the decree of freedom, was an able and

eloquent negro writer. Altogether, the debt of Brazil to the strong

African races appears to be quite as important, if not much more so,

than that owed to the Tupi-Guarani and other “Indian” tribes of native

Brazil. Fleeing from before the hard hand of the white man, the Indian

as a separate social element has disappeared from those parts of Brazil

brought into touch with modern life.

This native Brazilian, the “Indian” of the coasts, inland plains, and

forest-bordered rivers who lived in the country before Portuguese

possession, has left no traces of civilization comparable with that of

the Incas or pre-Incas of the north-west of South America, or with the

culture of the Maya of Central America and their pupils and conquerors,

the Aztecs. Only in the north, along the Amazonian river highway

connecting with Peru are there remains of ceramic art, and survivals of

weaving skill, which denote marked attainments by a people with settled

homes and defined social habits.

The Museo Goldi at Pará is full of good pottery, some fairly modern, and

much dug from burial grounds on the great island of Marajó at the mouth

of the Amazon; Marajó has a lake which in turn shelters an island which

has proved a mine for the archaeologist—and none too respectfully

treated, unfortunately, by some recent excavators, who seem to have been

more occupied in acquiring loot than in making historical records. This

island in the lake appears to have served for a burial ground of tribes

with social customs of a distinct type; many of the funerary urns are

large enough to contain an entire human body, and some are of good

artistic design; there is a very noticeable resemblance between certain

of these Marajó pottery specimens, especially the smaller jars and

domestic vessels, and ceramics found in Colombia and Southern Central

America.

To the present day the Amazon Indians have preserved their skill in

weaving native fibres; hammocks made of delicate threads, fine as lace

and beautifully prepared, are ornamented with elaborate feather devices

worked in with the fibres. They are sold on the Amazon for prices

reaching several hundred milreis. Both the Museum in Pará and that in

Rio de Janeiro, begun by Dom Pedro and housed in his one-time palace,

contain beautiful specimens of Indian feather work, the exquisite pinks,

blues and greens of Brazilian birds lending themselves to the gay

effect. Allied in race, apparently, to handsome, stocky natives of

British Guiana, the Amazon Indian often has a skin of a cinnamon tint,

is physically strong so long as he is not called upon for regular and

confined labour, is a good waterman and archer, and is not inimical

while he is allowed to remain undisturbed in his forests. If it were not

necessary to enlist his help or enter his retreats, his effect upon

Brazilian modern social conditions would be nil; there was a time when

Indian blood and labour were forcibly brought into service, but that

period is past, although the effect of the former survives in the

fortifying of much Portuguese blood. The hardy mixture that resulted was

able to withstand a trying climate as a pure European race probably

could not have done.

[Illustration:

Igapó near the Rio Negro, Amazonas.

Caripuna Indians, on the Madeira River.

]

Farther south the Indian seems to have been of a different origin, whose

cradle is assigned by some scientists to Paraguay, and who are

identified with the fierce Caribs, invaders of the West Indian islands

and destroyers of the gentle aborigines of those shores before the

Spanish came. No pottery remains are found in the south as in the north;

these tribes seem to have been nomadic in tendency, cultivators of no

arts that have left traces, builders of but light and temporary

dwellings, living upon few foods and those obtained chiefly by hunting.

The chief articles cultivated were mandioca and maize, the forests

yielding wild fruits and nuts. There seems to be no doubt that the

majority, if not all, of these natives were given to cannibal feasts,

but in some cases the act was ceremonial and in others was confined to

enemies of the tribe. Apart from these propensities the native appears

to have been a gentle and even timid creature, endowed with simple good

sense, and quite a man of his word. With the Portuguese settler he was

almost always at loggerheads, but the French knew well how to make a

valuable and faithful ally of him, loyal supplier of food and shelter in

the darkest day of the French attempt at colonization both north and

south; the Jesuit priests, too, who followed the Indians into the

wilderness were able to make quiet converts out of them, and to train

them to domesticity. Since the Jesuits’ work was destroyed and the

missionaries themselves expelled from the country the Indian has been

practically let alone; withdrawn socially, his part in Brazilian life

has been a silent one. He has been still living in the Stone Age. He

never knew and has not adopted the use of metal, erected no stone or

other permanent buildings of any kind, and set up no temples to his

gods. Idea of a deity was to many tribes represented by Tupan, a being

somewhat resembling the North American’s “Great Spirit;” medicine men,

called _pagés_, performed and still perform, wonders and enchantments to

cure the sick. When Prince Adalbert of Prussia went up the Amazon in

1843 he was able to see one of these wizards at work upon a sick man,

and himself complained of a pain in his arm, asking the pagé to cure it;

the spot was rubbed with unguents, covered with leaves, exorcisms were

made, and at last the pagé blowing upon the arm freed a butterfly and

declared that this was the disappearing pain; the European onlookers

said that it was a marvel that the wizard had been able to go through

such a performance with the butterfly concealed in his mouth: evidently

these are quite good conjurers. It is not unknown for the position of

pagé to be offered to a distinguished foreigner: I heard on the Amazon

of a German doctor, whose cures had won the confidence of a remote

tribe, receiving this curious honour.

The only man of modern times who has had continued success with the

native of the interior is that great Brazilian, Colonel Candido Rondon:

in his work of constructing telegraphs and roads and mapping and

surveying in the vast sertões of Matto Grosso, Rondon has laboured for

twenty-five years to win over the timid and hostile Indians. He has so

far succeeded that not only do they now refrain from destroying his

lines and stations, but have been trained to the service of the

Commission which Rondon heads, guarding the posts and cultivating fields

in their neighbourhood for the supply of the engineers. In 1915 a series

of moving picture films were shown in Brazilian cities, made on the

route of the Commission’s work, and showing interesting pictures of

Parecís, Nhambiquaras, and other Indian tribes friendly to the invaders

of their interior regions; they are frequently fine-looking,

welldeveloped, sturdy people, very well worth saving among the world’s

races.

All over the Americas the question of the fate of the native is a

painful one. In North America, both in Canada and the United States, he

has diminished with extraordinary rapidity even when wars have ceased;

contact with the white man seems to be fatal to him. It is only of late,

since he ceased to be a physical danger, that conscience has been

aroused on his behalf and efforts made to retain the survivals. Farther

south the Aztec is still holding his own, a hardy race living its own

life yet and able to preserve customs and wide land spaces. In Central

America the only marked group of pure race is the gentle Guatemalan

Maya, almost enslaved but still living the life of the sixteenth century

in the uplands: when taken to work in the lowlands, he dies.

In Peru the natives are still a strong tough mountain people: Ecuador,

Bolivia and Chile also have incorporated the Indian into the industrial

life of the country; from the Argentine he has practically disappeared,

the face of the land occupied by restless, industrial strangers, while

he has no place in statistics or in calculations affecting the progress

of the country. He is no more a factor than the North American Indian is

a factor in the United States.

Is he to suffer a similar fate in Brazil? Not yet, for his numbers are

large and he still occupies great tracts of the vast hinterlands. There

is, too, a lively public sentiment on the subject of the Indian in

Brazil, statesmen and writers frequently calling attention to the

problem. Spaces in Brazil are so enormous that it will be many a

generation before any question arises of intrusion upon Indian retreats,

and perhaps by that time an extension of the methods of Rondon will have

divested him of fear of civilization.

It cannot, however, be imagined that the native of Brazil will supply

the labour needed to develop great interior regions; he is not willing

to work at given tasks at appointed times and to maintain such work day

by day. He is probably not physically fitted for such tasks. When,

seduced by agents during rubber booms, he has been bribed into working

at the systematic gathering of _goma_, he has failed and died in too

many instances; only when his blood is mingled with that of another

race, and the _caboclo_ produced, is the child of the _selvagem_ able to

take his place in the industrial world.

With the suggestion that the Indian should be strengthened by admixtures

of introduced Asiatics, on the score that the Oriental and the native of

Brazil are already akin, I have scant patience. A tilt of the eyelids

seen in some Central and South American natives has been the chief basis

of a number of fantastic theories generally pre-supposing the passage of

large numbers of Chinese immigrants by way of the Behring Strait;

difficulties are brushed away with an easy hand by enthusiasts of this

idea, but to ignore them is, as T. A. Joyce says, to ignore the value of

scientific evidence. It is just as reasonable to suppose that China or

Japan or both were colonized from South America as to insist on the

reverse movement, but as a matter of fact the division is so extreme on

the very points where resemblances should exist—in language roots,

social customs, arts and food, and religion—that discussion of the

question appears futile. It may be taken for granted that oriental

immigration and mixing will not be accepted by Brazilians as the

solution to the Indian problem; like many another Brazilian problem, it

will be solved from within.

Education in Brazil for the masses of the people has been the subject of

serious consideration and effort for the last fifty years. Government

schools in the care of the separate States differ widely in varying

latitudes, both in quantity and quality, and problems depend largely

upon the origin of the population. The Italian immigrants of São Paulo

are obviously not in the same class as pupils as the negroes of Bahia

State or the three-quarter Indians of Amazonas, nor can States with few

exports and small revenues spend a corresponding amount on education

with rich and expanding regions.

São Paulo is in the matter of public schools, as in commerce, the leader

State; she is a wealthy State, and she has not hesitated to spend

enormous sums on all kinds of public works, whether roads, water-supply,

railways, drainage—or school buildings and service. The Director of

Public Instruction, Dr. João Chrisostomo, in speeches and writings shows

that he has a very clear idea of the object of modern schooling, to

train a healthy mind in a healthy body. Medical and dental attendance

upon the children is regularly carried out in the Paulista schools,

teachers are trained in an excellently equipped and managed Normal

School, and buildings have been multiplied until there is today a school

for every fourteen hundred of the inhabitants of São Paulo state. The

task of educating the children of the working population is a more

difficult one in the agricultural districts, but every good coffee

fazenda has its school. São Paulo has made special efforts to bring new

immigrants into touch with Brazilian conditions by establishing a series

of night schools where Portuguese is taught, together with Brazilian

history and geography; the writer once visited a school of this kind and

saw Italians, Syrians, Greeks and a Japanese, all adults, learning

earnestly in the same room.

Not all of the Brazilian States have as much money to spare as São

Paulo, but the framework, and much of the real building and equipment,

of a satisfactory public school system exists in every section of the

country. Feminine professional education has made a certain start, and

the writer has rarely seen a more promising, and handsome, group of

young women than the students of a normal school in Pará. Many Brazilian

cities take pride in their professional and technical colleges, some of

very old foundation, as that of the School of Law of Pernambuco, the

School of Medicine of Bahia, the Polytechnic School of Rio de Janeiro,

and the School of Law of São Paulo.

Religious scholastic institutions are many, several of the great Orders,

such as the Benedictines, Franciscans, and of course the Jesuits,

maintaining splendid, large, and wealthy colleges. Convents for girls

are also of first-class importance in the Brazilian educational field,

the Sacred Heart institutions taking thousands of girls, and apparently

giving them a good training. In São Paulo there are several schools of

Italian origin; there is a popular French Lycée in Rio; the American

Mackenzie College in São Paulo, founded by Dr. Horace Lane, is a fine

institution doing good work—possessing a kindergarten branch for young

children as well as upper grade classes and technical courses; and there

is a series of excellent and popular schools known as the Gymnasio

Anglo-Brazileiro. The first of these was started in 1899 by an

Englishman, Mr. Charles W. Armstrong, in São Paulo, for boys;

subsequently a beautiful property was acquired among the woods on the

lower slopes of the Dois Irmãos mountain just outside Rio, and a second

school opened there, followed in 1913 by the foundation of a school for

girls on the slopes of the Gavea. Sixty-two per cent of the pupils are

Brazilians, who seem to take to the healthy open-air games of the

Anglo-Saxon with a great deal of appreciation.

[Illustration:

_Agricultural School at Piracicaba, S. Paulo State._

Maintained by the State Government; teaches scientific agriculture,

conducts chemical experiments and maintains a splendid demonstration

farm. Director, Dr. Emilio Castello.

_The Butantan Institute, S. Paulo City._

The _Instituto Serumtherapico do Estado de São Paulo_ is maintained by

the State Government. Several thousand poisonous snakes are kept

here in the _Serpentario_ and from them venom is extracted and

injected into horses; the resulting serum is prepared as an antidote

for snakebite, and is distributed all over Brazil. The Director is

Dr. Vital Brasil.

]

The more southerly colonies have their own schools, generally taught in

their own languages; the only criticism of this retention of the

immigrants’ tongue and ideas that I have ever heard in Brazil made

itself known at the time when rumours were freely repeated of plots in

the German settlements of Rio Grande do Sul, soon after the outbreak of

war in Europe, and which were strengthened by von Tannenberg’s book on

German expansion, which discussed the annexation of South Brazil,

Uruguay and Argentina. Brazilian newspapers ran stories dealing with the

possibility of German naval victories being followed by the occupation

of Rio Grande and the use of the Lagôa dos Patos as a base for vessels,

and while the defeat of Admiral von Spee off the Falkland Islands

disposed of such a plan if it ever existed, the suggestion drew the

attention of many formerly indifferent people to the self-centred life

of some of the German colonies. It was complained that nothing but the

German language was taught in the schools, that public notices and

records were issued in German, and the German ideal held before the

people to the exclusion of any other. The matter was very warmly argued,

the colonists scouting, and with a show of reason, any evil intention;

it is hardly to be supposed that any sane person could plan the

deliverance of a piece of South American territory to a foreign power,

with the surrounding republics, not to speak of Brazil herself, looking

quietly on. But so much feeling was expressed that the Governor of Rio

Grande thought it well to announce new introductions of the Portuguese

language into schools. As a matter of fact the Italians in Rio Grande

out-number the inhabitants of German blood, few of whom are German born;

emigration to Brazil was forbidden by the German Government in the year

1859, after some eighty thousand people had settled: the survivors with

their descendants are said today to number two hundred and fifty

thousand. Living as they have chiefly done, in isolated towns, it would

be strange if they had acquired any habits and customs other than those

of their European fathers; they speak German for the same reasons that

they sleep on feather beds, brew beer, plant gardens and build

comfortable houses.

The sweeping charge that South America is a land of revolutions is made

so often and so lightly that few people stop to consider the record of

the vastly different countries comprising the area below Panama. When

the writer has remarked—outside Brazil—that Brazil has never as a whole

had any blood-stained revolution, the statement has been received with

looks of polite incredulity, and yet it is true. Prior to separation

from Portugal a few local, factional feuds occurred, as in Pernambuco

when the natives quarrelled with the petty merchant Portuguese, and in

Minas when the Paulistas fought the men of other states for claims to

the gold mines, but there was no more serious internal disturbance.

Independence from Portugal was achieved almost without bloodshed, by

force of a proclamation: the end of the monarchy and establishment of a

republic was attained peacefully.

After the republican régime began there was occasional trouble, a mere

candle flicker compared to the republican bonfires in neighbour states,

the insurgents of Rio Grande giving trouble for some years; there were

two revolts by the navy, of a not too creditable kind. In none of these

were the Brazilian people deeply concerned, nor did they affect the

government of the country. No Viceroy of Brazil, no King and no

President, has been assassinated in the history of the country.

External troubles, excluding the fights for twenty-four years to expel

the Dutch from Pernambuco, are limited to two, with neighbours in the

south; the first of these was as much the fault of Brazil as that of

Argentina, and she was forced to give up the Cisplatine Province

(Uruguay) forcibly annexed: but in the second, the Paraguayan war,

Brazil acted only after years of aggression obliged her to take up arms.

The fact is that the Brazilian is a peace lover, that Brazil has had few

wars in the past and has no cause for quarrel as far as can be foreseen.

Wars between South American states have frequently hinged upon questions

of boundaries, the result of vague delimitation in colonial days when

much of the interior was still a sealed book. Brazil took steps early in

her history as a republic to avoid such differences: that good diplomat

the Barão de Rio Branco worked for years on the subject of Brazilian

boundaries, and succeeded in making definite settlements with the

Argentine, Bolivia and French Guiana.

Another big step for the preservation of Brazilian peace was made when

in 1915 a pact was arranged between Argentina, Brazil and Chile which

binds the three greatest South American states in a closer alliance than

has yet been possible between North American countries. The terms

include “rules for proceeding to facilitate the friendly solution of

questions that were formerly excluded from arbitration” in virtue of the

treaty of 1899 between Brazil and Chile, of 1902 between Chile and

Argentina, and of 1905 between Argentina and Brazil. The articles of the

new agreement arrange for the submission of disputes to a permanent

Commission, the signatories agreeing not to commit hostile acts while

the Commission’s report is pending or until one year has elapsed: the

constitution of the Commission is provided for, and it is agreed that

any one of the three contracting parties has power to convoke it; the

seat of the Commission was fixed in the neighbouring (and presumably

neutral) Republic of Uruguay—at Montevideo—and after it had presented

its report upon matters in dispute the contracting parties, it was

agreed, would recover liberty of action “to proceed as best consults

their interest in the matter under investigation.”

The A. B. C. Treaty, as it is known, was signed at Buenos Aires on May

25, 1915, by representatives of the three Governments; its strength has

not been tested, but there is little reason to doubt that the formal

acceptance of the arbitration principle by these three powerful states

in the agreement is a big step forward in American history. “Brazil has

always been an advocate of arbitration, and has accepted the fiats of

arbitrators even when against her interests,” says J. P. Wileman, adding

that the actual treaty is but a development of Brazil’s historic policy,

though in the particular form it has taken the formula adopted by the

United States has been followed; it is also significant because it

“diminishes, although it does not eliminate, chances of war between the

three leading South American countries,” and “leaves no excuse for the

ruinous competition in armaments that has contributed so powerfully to

the actual financial crises in all three countries.” With burdensome

purchases of fighting vessels, rifles and cannon eliminated from their

budgets the Argentine, Brazil and Chile can therefore “in future devote

all their energies and resources to the moral and material advancement

of their peoples.”

The proof of arbitration puddings is in the eating. If the contributed

ingredients do not emerge from well-kept cupboards, they are apt to sour

whatever the label upon the cooked product. North of Panama the five

Central American Republics agreed upon the erection of the Court of

Cartago some years ago where all disputes between these neighbours

should be thrashed out. Approval smiled upon the project from the United

States, deeply interested in the peace of Central America; Mr. Carnegie

spent a large number of dollars upon the building of a beautiful palace,

and the first meetings were held with mutual kindliness and the applause

of the world. The writer saw the Peace Palace in May, 1910. A few days

previously an earthquake had visited the lovely mountain-surrounded

valley of Cartago and nothing remained of a charming city but a heap of

broken bricks and stone. The Peace Palace was a dust-heap, with twisted

iron girders thrusting up against the serene sky from a medley of

disaster. The sight was symbolical of the spiritual fate of the Court.

At the shake of an earthquake of opinions it is in ruins.

When Nicaragua signed a treaty which Costa Rica, Salvador and Honduras

declare an encroachment upon their territorial rights, recourse was had

to the Court, re-erected in San José. The Court found for the three

appellants—and Nicaragua refuses to accept its decision.

Let us hope the A. B. C. treaty is made of better material.

Brazil today and tomorrow · 第 3 / 9 章