CHAPTER X

SCULPTURED CAPITALS

Favourite subjects--Plain capitals in English cathedrals--The

foliage--The trumpet pattern--Capitals in the gallery--New

elements--The arcades at Vézelay--Original but not realistic--The

zenith of ornamental sculpture--Lay schools--Art becomes a dead

language--The abacas--Norman sculpture in England--The palace of

Gelmirez--St. Joseph’s Day--The crypt church--Its form and

architecture--Sculpture of its capitals--Stone flowers--Celtic

dances--The Capilla de Gelmirez--Sculptured scenes from daily

life--The Sala capitular

The capital of every shaft introduced into the design of the _Pórtico de

Gloria_ is, as we have already remarked, exquisitely sculptured. We have

tried to describe some of the more noticeable ones, but there are also

interesting subjects depicted on many of the smaller and less prominent

capitals. On the capital of a pillar attached to the eastern wall of the

narthex, near the statue of Esther, we find little monsters, winged

dragons with horses’ feet. Others again have exuberant foliage, amongst

which there sometimes appears the profile of a beautiful female head. A

favourite subject is a couple of harpies with women’s heads (a band

across the forehead and flowing hair), the bodies are those of birds

varying in size and type. On a capital opposite the southern or “Pagan”

arch is depicted a poor unfortunate mortal with a tormenting monster on

either side of him; one of these is engaged in pulling out his tongue

with a long pair of tongs, and the other is trying to strangle him with

a rope, one end of which he has strung round the victim’s neck. Though

the theme of the _Pórtico_ may not be the Last Judgment, it must, I

think, be admitted that these creatures have a very infernal appearance.

On another capital are depicted two hideous harpies with equine heads,

and serpents’ tails which coil round their carrion-like feet. These

horrid animals glare down upon the spectator with the most fiendish

expression imaginable.

In some of our finest cathedrals the capitals are often very little

carved, or not carved at all. At Winchester we

[Illustration: WINDOW IN THE PALACE OF GELMIREZ]

[Illustration: ARCHWAYS IN THE PALACE OF GELMIREZ]

[Illustration: SCULPTURED CAPITALS IN THE CHAPEL BENEATH THE CATHEDRAL

OF SANTIAGO]

find in the north transept (1079-93 A.D.) the so-called cushion capital,

which Parker describes as a “plain cubicle mass with the lower angles

rounded off, forming a sort of rude cushion shape.” There are plain

capitals in the arcade of Canterbury, and in the crypt, but these last

were evidently intended to be sculptured after they had been put into

place, for some are finished and others are half-finished. At

Westminster too we also find plain capitals, but it is evident that the

artist who superintended the sculpture of Santiago Cathedral meant to

have every one sculptured. As Lopez Ferreiro has remarked, it is very

rare to find a church with such a variety of carved capitals. Counting

those of the windows and side chapels, there are nearly a thousand, all

completed with the most perfect work and finish. In the interior of the

cathedral the capitals are almost all of the best granite, but they look

like sculptured marble; some of the figures in them have eyes of jet.

The foliage of many is as fine and delicate as lace work. “No epoch of

architecture,” wrote Viollet le Duc, “has produced such a variety of

capitals as the twelfth century.” The sculptors truly seem to have

looked upon their work as a labour of love and devotion.

Lopez Ferreiro believes that the capitals of Santiago Cathedral were

completed before the close of the eleventh century, and therefore before

the epoch at which the French capitals attained to their fullest

perfection.[165] Some of them certainly were, but I am a little

sceptical about the best ones. Those which resemble the early capitals

with rude volutes, such as one sees in the White Tower, London (1081

A.D.), might well date from the eleventh century, and those in the

_Puerta de los Platerias_ may be of the same date. But this question is

worthy of more careful study than has yet been devoted to it. Some of

the capitals of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ are very Byzantine in their

execution, as are those of the _Puerta de los Platerias_. Here we see

interlacings, a sort of basket work ornamented with dots like pearl

_passementérie_ and the trumpet pattern, which are certainly indicative

of the sculpture of the Eastern Empire. There is a great deal of this

work in Ireland, and for a long time patriotic Irish archæologists clung

to the belief that these twistings and plaitings and spirals were of

purely Celtic origin and typical of Celtic art,[166] but that idea is

now exploded. “There is no doubt,” writes Miss Stoke,[167] “that in the

history of Christian art in Ireland we see two currents meeting, one

Byzantine the other Latin,” and she then points out that similar

designs, “like regularly plaited twigs,” are to be found in the church

of St. Clement in Rome, which dates from 650 A.D.; where these twigs are

plaited together (a case rare in Ireland) they are intended as a symbol

of the Holy Trinity, the Three in One, as the inscription

_Unitas--Trinitas_ found with it in France indicates.

To any one who is fond of beautiful sculpture a walk round the gallery

which encircles the cathedral of Santiago is nothing short of a delight.

The arches of windows through which we look down into the naves are

supported by carved capitals of the most perfect workmanship; there are

many hundreds of them, and there are not two alike.

Frenchmen claim that all this beautiful work was done under the

supervision of monks from Cluny; if not, indeed, by them, they argue

that the same class of finely sculptured foliage is to be found at

Toulouse and elsewhere in Southern France. Yet, according to Viollet le

Duc, it was after 1130 that the monks of Cluny began to turn to Nature

for fresh ideas. They then sought for new elements, and these they found

in the vegetation of their own fields, and it occurred to them that,

instead of arranging canthus leaves stiffly and conventionally, like

those on the friezes and capitals of Syria, each sculptor should be at

liberty to gather such foliage as grew in his own neighbourhood, and

arrange it as his own taste should dictate. It was towards 1160 that

these monks completed their arcades at Vézelay, and displayed their

capitals sculptured with an elegant suppleness that nothing has ever

equalled. The general form of these capitals, like those at Santiago,

was Roman, but the grouping and adjustment of the flowers of the fields

are managed with such grace and skill that the cleverest of modern

sculptors would find it hard to compete with them.

As at Vézelay, so at Santiago, there is such varied grouping of the

foliage as could only have been arrived at by each individual sculptor

drawing his inspiration from the tender sprays themselves and working

out his own fancy. Towards the close of the twelfth century the mass of

traditional

[Illustration: SCULPTURE IN THE REFECTORY OF THE PALACE OF GELMIREZ,

SANTIAGO

PHOTOS. BY VARELA]

ornamentation such as interlacings, and billets, began to disappear and

their place was filled by local vegetation. There is plenty of this new

decorative sculpture in the choir of _Notre Dame de Paris_, which was

begun in 1163 and finished before 1190, the work of the lay-school,

_l’Isle de France_. The sculptors went out into the fields to search for

the leaves and buds that would best suit their purpose. Every man wished

his block of stone to become a capital whose beauty distinguished it

from all the rest.[168] The work of this period is wonderfully original,

but it is far from being realistic.

The general composition of the Paris capitals resembles that of those of

Santiago Cathedral, but is not nearly so beautiful. The foliage, too,

that grew in the neighbourhood of Paris, and was adapted by the

sculptors there, is quite different from the foliage of the Santiago

capitals, which seem to have been copied from the cabbages which form

the staple food of the Gallegan peasants. These cabbages shoot up with

long thick stems more than a yard above ground before they spread out

their long, curling leaves, and more nearly resemble wild bracken than

English cabbages. The fact that the leaves on the Santiago capitals seem

to be full of sap and lifelike, must likewise be due to the sculptor’s

keen observation and study of the original plant as it grew in its

native soil. Viollet le Duc says that it was in _Notre Dame de Paris_

that this stone vegetation first unfolded its leaves, and that other

sculptors of northern France took thence their ideas; but it was not

till some years later that they learned to represent the leaves as they

grew. It needed consummate art to form, out of many parts, one combined

whole which should resemble an individual and real plant or animal; even

the imaginary and fantastic animals that twelfth-century artists

represented as creeping out from between the foliage looked real and

lifelike. The zenith of ornamental sculpture, in the opinion of Viollet

le Duc, was reached at that moment when Roman tradition had disappeared,

and when the search after reality had not yet imposed its exigencies

upon the sculptor. This was the most brilliant period of the French

school, and it lasted for about twenty-five years, between 1199 and

1215. The new school spread its influence into every province of France

and even into foreign countries, but at the same time the work of each

province preserved a certain individuality of its own. In Bourgogne

there was a tendency even to exaggerate nature.

When the lay schools were formed, when art had come forth from the

monasteries and taken its place in the family and in the workshop of the

artisan, the members of each corporation were free to do as they pleased

with their blocks of marble or stone, they had no written rules to

follow; the father taught his son, and the master explained his method

to his disciple or apprentice. It seems to have been their first care to

break with the past, and to study nature in the woods and fields in

search of fresh inspiration. “Alas,” cries Viollet le Duc, “that in Art

progress should lead us to a zenith and then force us to descend!”

Sculpture falls at last through her very zeal for reality.

The capitals of Santiago like those in France were sculptured before the

mason lifted them to their place. Each workman was responsible for the

work of his own capital, and we often find the name of the proud

sculptor cut into the stone.

But how did such perfect sculpture spring up in this remote town of

Galicia, contemporaneously with, if not earlier than, the best French

work? “Pour former l’artiste,” says the writer we have been quoting, “il

est besoin d’un public appréciateur, pénétrable au langage de l’art;

pour former le public, il faut un art comprehensible, en harmonie âvec

les idées du moment.” And what sort of a public had Santiago in those

days. Was it not one of the most brilliant of the world’s intellectual

centres? All this exquisite sculpture was produced during Galicia’s

second Golden Age. In the Middle Ages there was a far stronger tie

between the artist and the public than there is in our day. “Le moyen

age n’aurait pas fait un si grand nombre de sculpteurs pour plaire a’

une coterie, l’art s’était democratisé autant qu’il pent l’être.” In our

day art speaks only to the few, the chosen and the cultivated few, with

money in their pockets. It is a dead language to four-fifths of the

world, not because the people have rejected it, but because it has

neglected the people.

One of the glories of the lay schools of the thirteenth century, remarks

Viollet le Duc, is the way in which they helped to spread art among the

people. From the moment that you begin to teach the people that art is

only for a caste, a select few, you cannot continue to spread it abroad.

You cannot command taste. Art is a tree which can only spread and grow

when it is given fair play. “Le régime féodal n’avait ni Acadèmies ni

conseils de batiments civils, ni comités protecteurs des Arts.” In the

twelfth and thirteenth centuries

[Illustration: SCULPTURE IN THE CHAPEL BENEATH SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL]

[Illustration: SCULPTURE IN THE CHAPEL BENEATH SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL]

[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE CHAPEL BENEATH SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL

PHOTOS. BY VARELA]

there were no prizes, no medals to strive for, but art lived and

flourished everywhere.

Many of the capitals in Santiago Cathedral are decorated with groups of

animals, birds, harpies, dragons, in endless variety, while a few,

especially those in the gallery above the apse, are true to the old

Byzantine design of plaits and bands and dots; some again of the later

style have pods full of peas or beans instead of foliage, and in others

the foliage is curling daintily at the tip like ostrich feathers. The

scalloped capital, the most common of all in England in the first half

of the twelfth century, is not to be found in Santiago. The abacas is

always square in Galicia; as far as I remember, it is also square in

French Gothic capitals as well as in Norman, but in English Gothic it is

generally round.[169] In England, too, there has been much discussion as

to how the use of this sculpture was first introduced. Sir Gilbert Scott

thought he could trace it from Byzantium through the south of France;

and Parker attributes its introduction into England to the Crusaders in

the latter half of the twelfth century, but Viollet le Duc scoffs at the

idea. “Soldiers,” he says, “do not usually find a place for art in their

knapsacks.” “We have seen,” writes Parker, “by the testimony of Gervase,

that the chisel was not used in the “Glorious choir of Conrad” at

Canterbury, which was built between 1096 and 1130, and an examination of

the old work proves the exactness of the statement; all the sculptured

ornament on the old work is shallow, and such as could well be executed

with an axe, which is not a bad tool in the hands of a skilful workman,

and is still commonly used in many parts of England and France.... The

chisel is only required for deep-cutting, and especially under-cutting,

and that we do not find on any buildings of ascertained date before

1120.” Parker speaks of some very rich Norman sculpture on the capitals

of the little old church of Shobdon in Herefordshire, built about 1150

by Oliver de Merlemond: the founder went on a pilgrimage to the shrine

of St. James of Compostella in Spain while this church was being built.

Parker thinks he must have brought home with him some drawings, or a

remembrance of what he had seen on his way through France, and applied

this knowledge to the new building. He adds, “It would be a curious

matter of research to ascertain where he found it.” It is much more

likely, in my opinion, that he got his ideas from the sculpture of St.

James, _i.e._ Santiago, though I do not remember seeing anything exactly

like the illustration given in Parker’s book. The sculpture of the

Santiago[170] capitals bears close inspection, like those of St. Sernin,

in France, but at the same time it is of a kind that looks well from a

distance, which is not the case with those of St. Sernin.

Mateo did not erect the _Pórtico de Gloria_ until after he had completed

the so-called “Palace of Gelmirez” adjoining the cathedral, and also the

little church which has been erroneously called “_la Catedral Vieja_”

(the old cathedral). In both of these there is contemporary sculpture of

great interest and merit. Underneath the principal entrance to the

cathedral, and below the flight of steps by which the principal entrance

is reached, there is another entrance in the western wall, that of the

little church, or crypt, beneath the _Pórtico de Gloria_, which is now

called the chapel of St. Joseph. An eighteenth-century circular arch,

broken by a coat of arms, forms the head of the doorway, on either side

of which, on pedestals, stand the figures of two knights in armour work

of the fifteenth century. As soon as we have entered we perceive that

the little church and the portico above are the work of the same

architect, and, consequently, of the same period.

On St. Joseph’s Day this little church stands open from early morning

till late at night, and on the Eve of St. Joseph’s Day it is also open;

but throughout the rest of the year travellers invariably find it

closed. Even now it is very seldom visited by travellers as in the days

of Street, who discovered its existence by a mere accident.

On entering the door the visitor confronts a relief figure, somewhat

under life size, of St. James the Less, the garments of which are highly

coloured, red and blue. St. James holds in his hand a scroll on which

his name is written. In front of the statue is a very ancient baptismal

font with a thick stem. Sanchez calls this statue Byzantine, but some

think it to be Mateo’s work. Opposite the entrance, at the end of a

modern passage, about three yards in length, is a stout clustered pier

(A) from which spring three arches, one to the north, one to the south,

and one to the east; the first two give entrance as it were to twin

naves leading to the high altar, the third arch joins the clustered pier

(A) to another and yet more robust clustered pier (B), an elephantine

one, in fact, which in its turn also throws out three arches to north,

south, and east. A third and smaller clustered pier (C) is joined to the

second (B) by the last mentioned arch. An aisle running round the third

clustered pier forms a

[Illustration: SCULPTURED CAPITALS EXACTLY BENEATH THE CENTRAL ARCH OF

THE PORTICO DE GLORIA IN SANTIAGO CATHEDRAL

PHOTO. BY VARELA]

[Illustration: THE PALACE OF GELMIREZ, SANTIAGO

PHOTO. BY VARELA]

circular apse in which are the chief altar, and an altar to the Virgin

and to St. James on either side.

The form of the little church is that of a Latin cross; but the three

stout piers, A, B, and C, taking up so much room that, being planted in

a line with one another in the centre, they prevent the church from

having any central nave; they give it instead a couple of twin naves,

and make it look like two churches. Street remarked with regard to this

church that its arrangement was very peculiar. The fact of the matter

is, that Mateo had to build strong and lasting foundations for his

_portico_ to rest on; and the crypt church had to be adapted to them as

best it might. From the clustered pier (C) springs the arches which form

a vaulting to the aisle which encircles it, tores spring out over the

aisle like branches from a weeping ash. The inner side of the arches are

decorated with sculpture from the hand of Mateo, as also are the

capitals of the shafts which adorn the clustered piers. The capitals

round the central pier (B) are marvellously beautiful, and those round

the outer walls of the edifice are every one of them worthy of careful

inspection. It is so dark that without good artificial light the work

cannot be satisfactorily examined, and even with a good light a couple

of hours are required to see all properly.

The vaulting of the inner sides of the arches has large rosettes to join

the tores together, but the most remarkable of all the rosettes are

those which line the inner side of the arches over the twin naves. Never

have I seen such a variety of stone flowers in so small a space. The

accompanying photograph taken by limelight will give my readers only a

slight idea of these wonderful rows of flowers plucked from the stalks,

but the pen here is helpless. We have nothing like this in England; our

ball-flower, our four-leaved flower, our trefoil are hideous in

comparison. The photograph, though it only shows a part of one wall,

shows twelve flowers, every one different, every one perfected with

scrupulous care.

Now let us turn to the capitals; the variety of foliage they represent

is simply endless. They are remarkable for the energy, the vigour of

their design. Here on a side capital is a man up in a vine, cutting down

the grapes with a crescent-shaped sickle: there are the real vine-leaves

of Galicia, and the sickle in the man’s hand is the very one still used

by the Gallegan peasants. On another side of the same capital are two

persons with large bunches of grapes at their feet. On another is a man

grasping a wild beast by the throat; the man’s head, which has gone,

should form a corner of the capital. But perhaps the most interesting

capital of all is that with the two maidens gracefully dancing with

raised arms an old Spanish dance. Some have thought this represented the

daughter of Herodias, and that subject has been depicted on a capital;

there is one in the Toulouse Museum,[171] but others believe it to be a

scene taken from the life of the day. That very kind of dancing still

takes place on the village greens of Galicia.

In a niche over the chief altar is a very old stone image, supposed to

have belonged to the original church built over the body of St. James.

The two slender marble shafts to the left and right of the niche have

capitals with Byzantine sculpture; their style is simple and elegant,

and quite distinct from any of the other work. On either side of these

plain shafts are a couple of shafts covered with carving in spiral

bands; ugly modern capitals replace their original ones, but the

pedestals are intact and worthy of note. Some think these four shafts

are among the earliest sculptures in Galicia, and date from the end of

the tenth or beginning of the eleventh century. The frontal of the altar

is covered with a geometrical design, a kind of diaper pattern; some of

its original red and gold colouring is still preserved. The design

consists of a red braid with dots (pearls and a gold border arranged

geometrically on a white background), and joined by stone rosettes with

gold centres. It has been suggested that this altar is a sculptured

sarcophagus adapted, but it is rather too deep for a sarcophagus.

The so-called Palace of Gelmirez was not built till the end of the

twelfth century, or perhaps the beginning of the thirteenth, but the

style of its architecture is the same as that of Mateo’s school. It is

built on to the cathedral to the right of the western façade. We entered

it, by special permit, by way of the modern archiepiscopal library, and

descended to the _capilla de Gelmirez_. The banded imposts on which the

arches and early Gothic vaulting of this chapel rest are ornamented with

remarkable sculpture, quite different from any we have noticed in the

cathedral. Musicians with various quaint instruments are represented as

singing the praises of the Most High: angels, birds, and rosettes adorn

the groined vaults. In the adjoining refectory, separated from the

chapel by a huge pier, the sculptures represent scenes from the everyday

life of Santiago in the twelfth century. Here a Gallegan lady is seated

at dinner with a young girl on either side of her: a servant stands

close by with a dish of eatables in her hand. We see people carrying all

manner of viands, bread, fruits, etc. As Sanchez has remarked, this must

be the refectory, it could be nothing else with so many eatables about.

All the faces wear a look of placid contentment, which centuries have

not been able to obliterate. The musical instruments we see in the

capilla are supposed to be representations of the ones that were used by

the minstrels of the twelfth century. They are quite different from

those of the four-and-twenty elders in the _Pórtico de Gloria_.

There has been some dispute as to the original plan of the archbishop’s

palace, and an architect of my acquaintance is devoting a good deal of

study to the subject. With him I went upstairs to look through the

windows of the notary’s office at the now sealed up old windows of one

of the original lateral façades. These windows are in the Romanesque

style, very like those in the transept of Winchester Cathedral, which

are also eleventh-century work, only that the latter have two windows

under each arch. The arches here are double, the inner arch resting on

slender shafts. It is a simple and at the same time a noble style of

window. We then went down into the basement to look at the long vaulted

room below the capilla--probably an old Sala Capitular--and numerous

bits of stone ornament, archwayed passages, all dating from the eleventh

century. It was down here that Gelmirez established his mint, by the

special permission of Alfonso VI. (1107)[172] in order that money might

be forthcoming to meet the expense of completing the cathedral.

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