CHAPTER IX

THE PORTICO DE GLORIA

A wonderful portico--The triple archway--Origin of Western

Christian art--A system of symbols--“Bible of the Poor”--Mosaic

gives place to statuary--A magnificent design--The focus of the

world--The figure of Christ--The Four Evangelists--The

four-and-twenty elders--Musical instruments--Jews and Gentiles--The

Man Christ Jesus--The central pillar--The seated figure of St.

James--The Stem of Jesse--Custom and superstition--Judith--The

prophets--The bases of the pillars--Mateo represents

himself--Another superstition--“The saint with the curls”--The

capitals--A lifelike effect--A great thought--Didron--The

drapery--The portico at South Kensington--Colouring--Mateo’s

inscription--Mateo’s birthplace

The Cathedral of Santiago di Compostella is celebrated all the world

over for the exquisite beauty of its sculpture not only as regards its

statuary but also for its ornamentation generally. Here at least the

Cathedral of St. Sernin, or St. Saturnine, as it is sometimes called,

does not attempt to compete with it: here it stands absolutely alone and

unrivalled.

Facing due west, and concealed by the Churrigueresque façade, is the

most wonderfully sculptured portico that human eye has yet seen. This

portico, or _narthex_,[143] was originally part of the exterior; now it

is part of the interior of the cathedral. It was once an open façade;

the pillars which supported its front on either side stood far apart,

and pilgrims caught sight of its beauty even before they entered the

building, and rain and wind as well as daylight and sunlight played

freely upon the flesh-coloured and lifelike features of the sculptured

saints. But in our day the brickwork of the modern façade so darkens the

portico that even when the doors are flung open it is never seen at its

best.

A triple archway gives entrance to the three naves of the cathedral; the

central arch fronts the principal nave, and the smaller arches (to the

north and south), the two collateral naves, or, as some would call

them, the side aisles. These three arches and their tympana are covered

with statues which have been adapted to the architecture with such skill

that at a little distance they appear to be carved out of the actual

material of which the arches are composed. Examined closely, every

statue, every ornament is a masterpiece of delicate sculpture. The whole

is intended to represent the Christian Church--the entrance to the House

of God, of which Christ is “the chief Corner-Stone.”[144]

It is to the walls of the catacombs that we must turn for the origin of

Western Christian art. In the West, as Didron has pointed out, the

Christian painters limited themselves to a small cycle of subjects.

Setting history and chronology aside, they treated their subjects solely

with reference to some hidden moral or devotional truth which they were

known to signify. Thus the events recorded were represented by symbols.

A system of such symbols was developed which illustrated the most

salient points in the Christian faith. A hieratic cycle of subjects came

into use, not necessarily for doctrinal purposes, but as expressive of

religious facts.[145] In the days when few, even among the rich, could

read, outside the monasteries, pictures and statues were the most potent

medium by which the contents of the Bible could be explained to the

general public. Even in our day pictures represent words to the

illiterate Russian peasant; when he goes to the neighbouring town to

purchase an agricultural implement or a new coat, he enters such shops

as have similar articles painted in brilliant colours above their

respective doors. Gregory of Tours, writing towards the close of the

sixth century, tells a pretty story of how Namatea, the aged widow of

Namatius, bishop of Auvergne (A.D. 423), reads to the painter decorating

the walls of the church she has raised over her husband’s tomb the

scenes he is to depict with his brush: “She used to sit with a book upon

her knees reading thereout stories of the deeds of the men of old.”[146]

One of the manuals so used was known as the “Bible of the Poor.” Many

legends drawn from pagan mythology were included in these manuals[147]

as types of events in the life of Christ. As Didron says, the

iconography of the pagans dovetailed into that of the Christians.

The architect of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ drew his inspiration not from

manuals, not from popular legends, but purely and simply from the Bible

alone. “Protestants,” says Ferreiro, “accuse Catholics of not letting

the people have the Bible, but Mateo, in the twelfth century, certainly

knew it as well as any Reformer ever did, and what is more, he wished to

put it before the eyes of the ignorant.” Yes, the _Pórtico de Gloria_

was begun in the twelfth century, twenty years earlier than the façade

of Notre Dame de Paris. The façades of Rheims, Chartres, Amiens had not

yet come into existence, and Italy still gave the preference to mosaic

rather than to statuary, and, as Ferreiro adds, she had not yet grasped

the way to adapt statuary to architecture. Even if Mateo had prepared

himself by studying the two façades which were already in existence,

Repoll and Vézelay, he must have felt dissatisfied with them.

The pervading idea in Christian art as seen in the sculpture of the

primitive sarcophagi was the Fall and the Redemption. Every epoch[148]

had its own ideal: in the early ages of Christianity the martyrdom of

the saints was the favourite subject; then followed a period when

asceticism came into vogue; and after the beginning of the thirteenth

century the struggle against the temptations of the world, and

especially against sensuality, became the principal topic. In the

_Pórtico de Gloria_ all these are represented. My first thought on

seeing it was instinctively, “How did the architect manage to get that

wealth of statuary into so small a space without giving the slightest

impression of overcrowding, or in any way disturbing the grand

architectural outlines of his magnificent design?” He not only succeeded

in getting them in, he did more: he succeeded in producing a piece of

work in which architecture and sculpture were interwoven and

inseparable. M. Roulin, a French Benedictine, who studied this

masterpiece from a printed plan (being unable to go and see the

original), published a critical article on it, in which he stated that

the archivolts of the lateral arches were _overcrowded_ with

statues.[149] When he looks at the real thing he will retract this

statement.

The tympanum of the central arch has three times the diameter of the

side ones: its centre is occupied by a colossal figure of Christ with a

crown and a cruciform nimbus, seated upon a throne with His feet upon

two sculptured fern leaves curled like ostrich feathers. Christ serves

as the centre towards which all the lines converge--“the focus of the

whole world in the splendour of His glory. He attracts and absorbs

everything, as the ocean absorbs the rivers. But Christ was also the

Victim, the Scapegoat: there are marks on His hands, His feet, His side.

He is the victim who has burst asunder the bars of Hell and has opened

the gates of Heaven to all Believers.”[150] Mateo chiefly follows the

words of St. Paul, but in the disposition of the figures on the tympanum

he follows the description given in Rev. iv. and v.:--

“_And there was a rainbow round about the throne, in sight like unto an

emerald._

“_And round about the throne were four-and-twenty seats: and upon the

seats I saw four-and-twenty elders sitting, clothed in white raiment;

and they had on their heads crowns of gold._ ...

“ ... _The four beasts and four-and-twenty elders fell down before the

Lamb, having every one of them harps, and golden vials full of odours,

which are the prayers of the saints._

“_And they sung a new song, saying, Thou art worthy to take the book,

and to open the seals thereof: for Thou wast slain, and hast redeemed us

to God by Thy blood out of every kindred, and tongue, and people, and

nation._”

The figure of Christ, as Ferreiro observes, is the only statue of

hieratic form; all the others are human to a remarkable degree.[151] The

seated statue of Christ measures nearly five yards in height; His arms

are outspread, and He is raised six yards from the ground. His features

are serene, with a broad forehead and somewhat protruding eyes and thin

lips. His beard reaches to His shoulders. The throne is a Roman

_curule_, the faldesterium of the Middle Ages. It was a rule among the

Greeks that the larger the statue the more they must sacrifice detail to

important points, and Mateo followed this rule most strictly. Much

detail is left out altogether in this statue of Christ.

Grouped round the throne are the Four Evangelists writing on the

respective animals that accompanied each: John, a youth with an eagle;

Luke with a bull; Mark with a lion, whose front paws rest upon his knee;

Matthew, a beardless young man, writes on his knee. St. Luke writes:

“_Facit in Diebus Herodis_.” Some of the words on the open page of

John’s book are also still readable: “_Initium Sancti evangelii secundum

Joannem_.”[152] These evangelists represent the interpreters of the

Word. In the base of the pediment there are four angels on either side

carrying trophies of the Passion. One, kneeling, presents the column to

which Christ was bound; two others carry the cross; a third bears the

crown of thorns; a fourth, four keys; a fifth, Pilate’s sentence (on a

scroll); a sixth, a pitcher; a seventh, the leathern thongs; an eighth,

the cane and sponge with a scroll which is now illegible. The feet of

these angels rest upon clumps of sculptured foliage.

The four-and-twenty elders are placed like a fringe round the inner side

of the arch; the tympanum describes a perfect semi-circle. Each has a

stringed instrument and a little vessel, and each has a kind of ducal

crown upon his head. The crowns were gilded originally, and their tunics

were white bordered with gold. Some of them have short mantles fastened

on the left shoulder. All are seated on a kind of Oriental divan, and

are conversing together two and two, like people at an entertainment

whose thoughts are engrossed in what they are saying and who are

careless of what others are doing. Their musical instruments are a study

in themselves: some think they are copied from the instruments that were

used by the troubadours and other minstrels of the day, but Dr. Eladio

Oviedo, who has made a special study of the subject, believes they are

intended to represent the musical instruments of the Old Testament. They

all have three strings, though there are five screws; some of them

resemble the violins of our day. “Strange,” says Ferreiro, “that there

is not a viola among them, especially as there is a viola in the hands

of King David on the _Puerta de Los Platerias_. Perhaps it is because, a

bow being needed, it would be difficult to get it in.”

A crowd of little human figures take the space round the figure of

Christ. All are crowned, and most of them are carrying books or scrolls,

but all have their eyes fixed upon Christ. These represent the citizens

of the Holy City, of Isaiah, who have been redeemed by Christ; or the

Ten Thousand times ten thousand, who are singing a new song. Their

crowns are symbols of glory.

On either extreme of the tympanum are two angels, lifting in their arms

and presenting to Christ each a little naked figure representing a human

soul, which holds in its little hands its “title clear to mansions in

the skies.” The faces of the angels are full of tender and passionate

sympathy. Those to the left are bringing in the Jews, those to the right

the Gentiles, an illustration of the words, “And He shall give His

angels charge concerning thee.” The number of figures on the Gentile

side is double that on the side of the Jews, according to Isaiah’s

prophecy that the barren woman should have more children than she who

had a husband. The archivolt or face of this marvellous arch is

decorated with exquisitely sculptured foliage, which forms a graceful

background to the heads of the four-and-twenty elders.

The lateral arch to the right has also a statue of Christ, but a very

small one, on the keystone of its archivolt. In His left hand he holds a

sealed book representing Eternal Truth. Eve is seen to His right and

Adam to His left; then in the next semi-circle come Abraham, Isaac,

Jacob, and Judah on the right, and Moses, Aaron, Samuel, and David on

the left. A thick and exuberant foliage partially conceals these

figures; the upper band of sculpture in this arch also appears, at the

first glance, to represent nothing more than a semi-circle of foliage

behind a tore or large round moulding such as is commonly used in the

bases of columns. Looking more closely, however, and with the aid of an

opera-glass, we clearly distinguish the arms and heads of little naked

human beings at intervals between the foliage peeping over the tore,

with their legs and feet on the lower side of it. Lopez Ferreiro and

Eladio Oviedo believe that the tore represents the old Jewish Divorce

Law, and the figures--the Jews who are still bound by it (they nearly

all hold scrolls in their hands stretched over the tore)--Bills of

Divorce; the thick foliage represents sin. The Jews are being rescued,

two and two, naked (so that no sin may remain on them), by tender

angels. The first angel, with a cloth, bears them in his arms, and the

second hands them still naked into the Christian Church (which is

represented by the tympanum of the central arch already described).

The sculpture on the side arch to the south is supposed by the

above-quoted authorities to represent the conversion of the Gentile or

pagan world, as that to the north represents that of the Jews. The

keystone of the southern arch is occupied by two busts--the upper, with

a beard, represents “the man Christ Jesus,” and the lower, a beardless

youth, also Christ, but this time “the God-Christ.” To the right of

these busts are sculptured horizontally four angels bearing little human

figures, round which they have wrapped their flowing mantles, towards

Paradise (_i.e._ the central arch). To the left, also placed

horizontally, are four hideous demons--the nearest one to the keystone

of the lower archivolt is crouching down, and has the limbs of two

little human beings hanging from his jaws; the second, with the feet of

an ox, is also maltreating human beings; the third, who has claws

instead of feet, has four little figures suspended from his neck; the

fourth, with human feet, is munching human beings, two at a time. These

demons, in the opinion of Lopez Ferreiro, represent _not devils_ but

violence, cruelty, rapine, and gluttony. Serpents are seen entwining

some of the little figures; they are the passions which tyrannise over

the unconverted.

As I have said, Lopez Ferreiro was the first writer to interpret the

symbolism of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ in this way. The fact that four

angels blowing trumpets are sculptured at the four corners of the

narthex led some critics to believe that the whole was nothing more nor

less than the hackneyed theme of the Last Judgment; they took the

beardless bust of Christ to represent St. Michael, though they were

obliged to admit that his scales were not visible. Some have thought

that the monsters represented purgatory, but this is not likely, as

purgatory was not represented either in painting or sculpture until the

fifteenth century, except metaphorically (which it was from the earliest

times).[153] Roulin strongly opposes the interpretation of Lopez

Ferreiro, and remarks that the theme of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ is well

known to iconography, and that it is the same as that found in many

other cathedrals. He is convinced that the angels carrying the

instruments of the Passion, or of Christ showing His wounds, are never

represented, except when the subject is the Last Judgment. With regard

to the Jews behind the tore he remarks: “Il faut convenir que pareille

representation est insolite,” but adds that there are various ways in

which it might be interpreted, one being Death and the Resurrection; the

tore would then be the emblem of death, and the green foliage that of

the green pastures of Paradise. As for the beardless bust on the other

arch representing Christ--a bust with neither beard nor nimbus is, in

his opinion, a thing unheard of after the middle of the eleventh

century! The extension of the theme of the Last Judgment to three arches

is, he owns, the point which distinguishes the _Pórtico de Gloria_ of

Santiago from analogous works,--he knows of no other such; the whole

subject is usually limited to the tympanum of one arch.[154] He also

points out that Lopez Ferreiro is mistaken in thinking that the Christ

in the cathedral of Autun has wounded hands outstretched in blessing,

and a bare breast showing a wound,--the arms of that statue are not

raised, and the breast is covered, so that no wounds are seen.

A clustered pillar composed of six granite columns, with a richly carved

capital, separates the two entrances beneath the tympanum of the central

arch. This pillar rests its base on the back of the figure of a man

lying on his stomach with head and shoulders raised above a scroll, the

writing upon which has been effaced. His arms are extended over the

backs of two lions with huge gaping jaws. Beneath the capital of this

column is a large seated figure of St. James, the “Son of Thunder,” the

patron saint of Santiago di Compostela, and in fact the patron saint of

the Spanish Peninsula. St. James, larger than life, is seated in an

armchair, the feet of which are supported by two little lions. Round the

saint’s head is a nimbus studded with crystals and other stones,--very

Byzantine in appearance, and supposed to be of much more recent date

than the sculpture. St. James holds in his left hand a staff the handle

of which is shaped like the letter T,[155] and in his right he holds a

parchment scroll on which we read “Misit me Dominus.” The lions, and the

chair in which St. James is seated, rest upon the beautifully carved

capital of a slender marble[156] column, the whole fust, or shaft, of

which is covered with delicate bas-reliefs illustrating the Stem of

Jesse. The idea was first suggested by Jerome in the fourth century: in

this representation of it there are seven human figures. Jesse lies at

the foot, while out of the heart there grows a tree which wraps in its

foliage the seated figure of King David, with his crown and musical

instrument, and between his knees the stem passes; above him is King

Solomon, also enfolded in the leaves, and above King Solomon is seated

the Virgin Mary, not concealed or shaded by any leaves, but rising out

of the tree, as though she (who was believed to be born without sin)

were its perfect flower. Above her delicate profile on the capital of

the same marble column is sculptured a representation of the Holy

Trinity. The Holy Spirit in the form of a dove is appearing from a

cloud; below is seated the Almighty with a mantle round His shoulders

and a royal crown upon His head, pointing to His Divine Son, whose arms

are extended on a cross. Four angels, two on either side, are engaged in

adoration of the Holy Trinity. This way of representing the Trinity,

according to Sanchez, is very ancient: it fell into disuse centuries

ago, because the ignorant crowd used to mistake it for the Coronation of

the Virgin.

For centuries poor women from all parts of Spain and Portugal have

implicitly believed that by placing their right hand where the branches

of the Tree of Jesse are thickest, and praying at the same time that God

will grant them children, they will receive the desired end. At the spot

where so many thousands of hands have been placed the marble is

literally worn away, like the toe of St. Peter at Rome. Priests shake

their heads at this superstition, but the women’s faith is not shaken,

and the custom continues to be practised.

The Tree of Jesse has often been used to represent the genealogy of

Christ. Parker tells us that it was by no means an uncommon subject for

sculpture, painting, and embroidery. At Dorchester Church, Oxfordshire,

it is curiously formed in the stone-work of one of the chancel windows.

At Christchurch, near Bournemouth, it is chiselled in stone on the

reredos of the altar; the figure of Jesse is here much larger than life

size, and the whole thing is larger in proportion; in this case the tree

springs from the loins of Jesse, not from his heart, as at Santiago. The

same subject is introduced in a painted window at Chartres; also in one

at Rouen.[157]

In a line with the statue of St. James, and the same height from the

ground, upon other sculptured columns with their backs to the great

piers which support the arches of the narthex, are grouped the

startlingly life-like figures of a number of evangelists and prophets,

each of which deserves the most careful study. The names of most of them

are indicated by the writing on their scrolls, or by some unmistakable

token. St. Peter, for instance, holds the keys, and is the only one

wearing pontifical dress; he represents the Head of the Church. St. Paul

holds a book, in which we can read the opening words of the Epistle to

the Hebrews. St. James the Elder, again represented, holds a scroll on

which we read, “_Deus autem incrementum dedit in hac regione_.” St.

John, the brother of St. James, is known by his sweet juvenile face, and

by the eagle which supports him. He has the Apocalypse open at the page

_Vidi civitatem sanctam_, etc., and appears to be reading it. There is

some doubt as to who the four next to him are meant to represent; after

them, on the eastern side, comes _St. John the Baptist_ holding in his

hands the _Agnus Dei_. Next is the figure of a woman with a crown, whom

some take for Queen Urraca, niece of Pope Calixtus II., and others for

Catherine of Leon. The most modern theory about this figure is that she

is intended to represent Judith; Judith’s appearance among the prophets

and evangelists in the _Pórtico de Gloria_ is taken to be a proof that

in the twelfth century the Book of Judith was included amongst the

canonical books of the Old Testament. Dr. Eladio Oviedo tells me,

moreover, that this belief is supported by many passages in the books of

the twelfth, thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries. There is also a

quotation from the Book of Judith in one of the poems of Prudentius, the

Gallegan poet of the fourth century, of whom we have already spoken. Not

having seen any of these passages, I am not myself competent to give an

opinion on the matter. All the representations of Judith that I remember

noticing in Italy and elsewhere represent Judith striding along with the

head of Holophernes in one hand and a sword in the other, such, for

instance, as the famous picture by Botticelli in Florence. Next in order

comes another female figure wrapped in a mantle, who was long thought to

represent “la sibille annoncaatrice du Jugement dernier,” but is now

believed to be Queen Esther; she carries a parchment scroll, but its

words have been obliterated. The next is a bearded statue with a staff

in _tau_, who has not been identified; then follows another unknown

statue. One of these is probably _Ezekiel_; and then we come to

_Jeremiah_, whose name is on his scroll; this prophet is communicating

something of great interest to _Daniel_, who stands next him, a handsome

young man who smiles as he listens with his eyes on the ground. Daniel’s

amused smile is so real that it is quite infectious, the spectator finds

himself smiling too as he looks at him. According to Lopez Ferreiro,

“Daniel cannot hide his joy at some news which Jeremiah has just

imparted to him.” At any rate, no traveller contemplating the Pórtico

will ever have the least difficulty in finding out Daniel, as his broad

smile is sufficient to mark him out amongst a thousand statues. For many

decades there was a legend among the people of Santiago to the effect

that he is laughing at the disproportionately fat figure of the crowned

lady opposite (Judith), and such a hold did this idea take upon the mind

of the crowd that at length the archbishop had that lady relieved of

some of her corpulence by means of the sculptor’s knife; one can see

that she has been trimmed a bit. Daniel’s name is still visible on the

scroll he carries.

_Isaiah_, standing next to Daniel, has a curious turban on his head; he

is the only one not bare-headed; his name is also readable on his

scroll. Moses, standing next to Isaiah (beneath the angel in the corner

of the right entrance under the central arch), is dressed in a blue

tunic with a gold mantle. He has a benign and venerable face, with

parted hair and a long flowing beard. In his hands he holds the two

Tables of Stone on which we can still decipher one word, “Honra.” All

these statues are above praise, not only as works of art, but as

representative of the sculpture of their epoch. Their wonderful anatomy,

the perfectly natural folds of their drapery, are marvellous when we

consider the age in which they were executed. High up above the southern

arch we see two unfinished and unsculptured stones, where the wings of

the angels should be represented to match the one above the northern

arch. This unfinished piece of work was pointed out to me by Dr. Eladio

Oviedo. No other archæologist seems to have noticed it. Did the sculptor

die before his work was finished? we wonder. In former days the four

angels with trumpets placed at the four angles of the rectangular

portico were taken to be the four archangels sounding the trumpets of

the Last Judgment. In the more modern interpretations they are celestial

servants of the Great King, whose duty it is to show Him honour.

The bases of all the pillars supporting the _Pórtico de Gloria_ rest

upon groups of extraordinary animals, about the symbolism of which there

has been much dispute. These creatures, which take the place of

pedestals, have been thought by some to represent the vices which

corrupt humanity, but surely if such were the case they would be more

varied in type! whereas one cluster is composed entirely of eagles and

another of lions. Eagles are not found anywhere else in Galicia, but

lions are quite common. The lion is used as an emblem of Justice, the

eagle represents Faith. Lions at the entrance of a church, one on either

side, are constantly met with in old Gallegan churches. The magistrate

used to sit between them on one of the steps, and judge cases in the

open air. It was quite public, and any one who liked might hear the

whole proceedings. The Moors have a similar custom to this day. Many a

time have I seen the judge with his white turban seated tailor-fashion

between the columns of the white building on the _Kashab_ hill at

Tangier, to try cases in the open air, while a triple ring of Moorish

spectators listened to his words. Those who considered the theme of the

_Pórtico de Gloria_ to be that of the Last Judgment believed that every

one of the monsters on which its piers rest represented a different

vice--Pride, avarice, sloth, envy, etc. By their crushed position,

beneath the whole weight of the whole portico, they were supposed to

represent the vices of man triumphed over by the Church of Christ. The

fact that in Assyrian ruins we meet with strikingly similar monsters

supporting the piers of ancient buildings has led some archæologists to

suppose that the idea of placing such creatures beneath this portico

reached Galicia through Eastern channels.

Behind the central pillar of the portico and facing the altar is the

figure of a man upon his knees with his hands together as if in prayer;

he is so placed as to appear as if supporting the weight of the whole

pillar upon his back. This is Mateo, the architect, who evidently did

not intend to be forgotten by those who came to admire his work. The

face is supposed to be a true portrait. It is virile, with a good

forehead clustered with crisp curls; their granite locks show signs of

wear. Here we see where another superstition has had its hold for

centuries. Mothers have from time immemorial rested their babies’ heads

against that stone head, because “Mateo was a clever man, and baby must

be clever too.” In the language of Galicia, this figure of Mateo is

sometimes called _el santo dos croques_, the saint with the curls (lit.

“of the curls”). Mateo has represented himself as a humble supplicant

whose eyes are directed towards the holy altar, and whose knees are bent

in adoration. He is clad in a tunic with wide sleeves, probably the

every-day garb of a Gallegan citizen of the twelfth century. Over the

tunic he wears a mantle fastened at the neck with a broach. His right

hand is laid upon his breast, as a sign of penitence, and in his left he

holds a scroll, which is said to have originally shown the word

_Architectus_.

One of the small shafts which ornament the pier supporting the right

side of the central arch (the one exactly beneath the statue of Isaiah)

is also of marble, like that on which is represented the stem of Jesse:

it is banded with spiral and exquisitely carved bas-relief. Here we at

once recognise Abraham being stopped by the angel just as, knife in

hand, he is about to offer up his son Isaac. Every atom of space has

been utilised with consummate skill. Abraham is not easily dissuaded by

the angel; there is a hand-to-hand struggle, and a determined look on

the face of the angel, who has actually grasped the blade of Abraham’s

outstretched knife. We note the wonderful play of muscle in this

speaking bit of marble. It is better sculpture of the human form than

anything to be found in French churches of the twelfth century. It

reminds us of the most perfect of Pisan sculpture, but it is of earlier

date than any of the French or Pisan work. The moulding at the base of

the shaft, like that of its fellows, is elliptic (oval), a sign, says

Lopez Ferreiro, of the transition from the Roman-Byzantine style to the

Gothic; the elaborate moulding of the square pedestal or plinth beneath

is also a sure sign of transition, for Greek and Roman pedestals were

plain blocks of stone. We remember that the Early French style had in

many instances plinths ornamented with fluting, or otherwise enriched.

One of the marble columns was evidently replaced, some hundreds of years

ago, by another of inferior marble, which has stood the test of time

very badly; it is much worn, but its sculpture is very interesting. Here

we see a real old tournament of the Middle Ages; two knights clad in

full chain armour, tunic and helmets entirely chain, and the latter

decorated with flowing plumes. The shields are splendid, and the anatomy

of the fighting warriors worthy of Rubens. On this column we also

discern some strange monsters such as we read of in “Geoffery the

Knight” when we were children.

All the capitals of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ are covered with rich

sculpture; that above the seated figure of St. James is decorated with a

representation of the Temptation in the Wilderness, to the north we see

Satan tempting our Saviour to turn stone into bread, to the west we see

Christ on the pinnacle of the temple, to the south is Satan showing

Christ all the glories of the world, and holding in his hands a scroll

with the words _Haec omnia Tibi dabo, si cadens adoraveris me_, and

Christ holds His scroll with the words _bade Satana_; on the fourth and

eastern side, facing the interior of the cathedral, we see angels

ministering unto Christ.

Lopez Ferreiro[158] has devoted a most interesting chapter to the

execution of the work in the _Pórtico de Gloria_. He shows how Mateo,

the architect, subordinated everything else to the one grand principle

of unity; thus following the supreme law in artistic production. We do

not see anywhere in Greek or Roman sculpture, as Viollet le Duc has

pointed out, a tympanum covered with statues the attitudes and size of

which are adapted to its shape. The façade of _Notre Dame de Paris_ has

a tympanum crowded with statues, but there the tympanum is divided into

four distinct parts; that of Santiago is unbroken. But unity alone is

not enough to constitute an aesthetic work of art; variety is also

needed in order to exclude monotony. In the _Pórtico de Gloria_ there

are hardly two figures to be found in the same attitude. Let us look at

the four-and-twenty elders. Each of the old men has his feet in a

different attitude; he has his own way, too, of handling his musical

instrument. Mateo had the art of making his statues look perfectly easy

and natural even when represented in the most difficult postures. There

is a look of spontaneity about the placement of their limbs. Ferreiro

has noted the capricious manner in which the legs of the fifth old man

are covered; we feel instinctively that he has only just this minute

crossed them, and that a moment ago he had them in quite another

position! We see the same variety in the flow or curl of the hair, in

the shape and size of the beard. All bear witness to the zeal with which

Mateo worked to produce a natural and lifelike effect, and to evade the

least suspicion of convention or routine. We have seen how the artist of

the _Puerta de las Platerias_ attempted to do this, but in his day no

one thought of attending to the position of a statue’s _feet_. In the

façade in question all the feet are arranged with the most rigorous

symmetry.

No human being can remain with comfort in any one position for more than

a given time; for the sake of ease our posture is continually changing.

Mateo must have studied every position possible to the human frame. But

his genius shows itself still more distinctly in the heads of his

statues,--each is a portrait taken from life, the features are all in

harmony. As you contemplate them you feel that you can almost read the

character of the person represented. With what diligence must this

artist have sought out his models; how peasants and tradesmen and nobles

must have posed for him in turn. In the _Pórtico de Gloria_ we see the

very people who walked about the streets of Santiago while the work was

being done.

Though the sculpture of the Middle Ages is in many respects inferior to

that of the best period of ancient Greece (in actual form it is

generally less perfect), it has in it a new element, it portrays, as

Greek statuary never attempted to do, the intellectual element in the

human being.[159] The artists of the Middle Ages did not consider only

of the exterior; they tried to represent the thinking mind. Every one of

Mateo’s statues has “a mind of its own.” As Lopez Ferreiro has put it,

the statuary of the Greeks was the sister of poetry, that of the Middle

Ages was the sister of psychology and philosophy.

The whole masterpiece of Mateo may be described as an attempt at the

interpretation of one great thought, or rather of a series of thoughts

“toute une ordre d’idées,” which “is engaging the attention of all

humanity.” Lopez Ferreiro notes how daringly Mateo made his attempt to

push his art into the road along which two centuries later it was

carried by Italy’s most celebrated artists.

The statues of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ are most of them engaged in

animated conversation; each face wears an expression in accordance with

the particular turn his conversation is taking, “yet each at the same

time wears a look of repose, such as could only arise from a pure mind

and a tranquil conscience.” The whole, the combined effect of this

astonishing piece of work, is powerfully dramatic; a series of deeply

interesting events is depicted; each statue is a human being whose

entire mind is concentrated upon these events; on one face there is a

look of wonder, on another a look of joy, on another a look of

contentment. “The dramatic element,” says the above-mentioned writer,

“is introduced in exactly the right proportion. In Christian artists of

greater note than Mateo--even in Nicolas of Pisa, there is something

earthly, frivolous, profane; but in Mateo all is serious, spiritual,

without any loss of the human element. As we contemplate the _Pórtico_

the figures almost seem to move, to sit, to talk. You seem to hear the

murmur of their lips. The same discreet realism manifested in the heads

is shown also in the limbs. The arms, the hands, and even the fingers

seem to move with flexibility and delicacy.” This writer goes on to

point out that the heads of the apostles are rather large, and in

accordance with the rule of the Greek monk Dionisius,[160] who laid it

down as a law that the head must be as large as a tenth part of the

whole statue. The heads of Mateo’s apostles are equal to one-seventh

part of the entire height, but the position of these statues must be

remembered; they are raised more than three yards from the ground,

consequently the heads diminish in size and reach exactly the right

proportions.

Didron has written much about the influence of the drama on iconography.

He thinks that in the early Middle Ages as well as in the twelfth and

thirteenth centuries the art of statuary may have gained much from

Mystery and other plays of the time which had been pressed into the

cause of religion. The “Mirror of Human Salvation” was the framework of

the Divine Comedy, and of all the Mystery plays. “When examining as to

what were the influences at work that aroused Italian art ... from the

death-sleep of Byzantine formalism, may we not,” he asks, “attribute

much of the inspiration of the thirteenth and following centuries to the

drama?” Mute and motionless stood the Christian drama, and its long

lines of angels and saints and martyrs had for centuries looked out with

their fixed gaze from the walls and domes of solemn basilicas, till at

last a vivifying and invigorating influence was brought to bear upon

them.[161] Some large churches in France, such as Chartres, Rheims,

Paris, Amiens, are adorned with no fewer than three or four thousand

stone statues. In the Greek Church statues of every kind are strictly

forbidden. The interior of the Greek churches of Russia are often

covered with fresco paintings, but never do we find a single statue. St.

John Damascenus in the eighth century spoke in defence of images:

“Images speak, they are neither mute nor lifeless blocks, like the idols

of the pagans. Images open the heart and awake the intellect, and in a

marvellous and indescribable manner engage us to imitate the person they

represent.”[162] And Bishop Paulinus of Nola said: “A sculptured arch in

the porch of a church, or an historical glass painting in the nave,

presented the ignorant with a lesson, the believer with a sermon.” We

are tempted to hope that the Catholic Church in Spain may one day clear

away from its sacred altars all the miserable, tawdry, and draggled

objects that are called images, and confine itself to the glorious work

of its inspired artists in glass and stone.

But to return to our _Pórtico_. The hang of the drapery, the pose of the

limbs, have all been the subject of the minutest care and of the

profoundest study. We do not here see garments flying, as though blown

by a rough wind, as if “in a frenzy,” as Taine remarked when he looked

at some of the statues in St. Peter’s at Rome. Every bit of drapery here

falls naturally into place.

With the exception of the slender marble columns already described, the

entire _Pórtico de Gloria_ and its sculpture is of solid granite; but

the granite of the sculptures was not intended to show. The whole was

most delicately coloured, capitals and fusts as well as statues. Time

has carried away most of the colouring, but there is still enough left

to give us some idea of what it was once like. The effect must have

defied description. Christ’s mantle was saffron, bordered with green and

gold, the tunic beneath being also saffron coloured, and bordered with

purple and gold. The four evangelists were also in yellow; the dresses

of the angels varied, some were pink, some blue, some white. Spanish

painters have admired the soft blending of the colours both in the faces

and in the garments of these statues. When our English architect, the

above-quoted Street, had succeeded in getting a special commission sent

out from England to take a plaster cast of the _Pórtico de Gloria_ for

South Kensington[163] he certainly deserved the gratitude of the English

public, but the people of Santiago complained that a little of its

beautiful colouring was taken off in the process. This colouring was not

Moorish, as some have suggested, but Byzantine. There is a great

similarity between the colouring of ancient Byzantine frescoes and icons

and that of this _Pórtico_; the flesh tints were brown almost to a

chocolate shade. The face of Judith is flushed with quite a rosy tint,

but that of one of the four-and-twenty elders, the one to the left of

the keystone of the arch, is still almost a chocolate colour, and

several of the others indicate a similar colouring. The capitals of the

marble pillars still show traces of a warm, rich red. The art of

colouring stone in such a manner that the colours will remain intact for

centuries is quite lost. It is one of the many lost arts. Possibly the

architects of the seventeenth century feared that continued exposure

might lead to deterioration of the sculpture, and for that reason closed

it in.

On the inner side of the lintel of the central arch of the _Pórtico_ is

an inscription, which is believed to have been placed there by _Maestro

Mateo_, the architect and sculptor to whom we owe this beautiful

creation. It reads thus--

“Anno ab Incarnatione Domini, MCLXXXVIII, Era MCCXXVI, die

kalendarum Apriles, super liminaria principalium

portalium--Ecclesiae Beati Jacobi sunt collocata per Magistrum

Mathaeum, qui a fundamentis ipsorum portalium gessit magisterium.”

(In the year of the Incarnation of our Lord 1188, era 1226, on the

calends of April, the lintels of the principal portico of the

Cathedral of the Blessed St. James were put up by Master Matthew,

who superintended the said work from its foundations.)

Perhaps this date, of which none have doubted the correctness, is the

most astonishing part of the whole thing.

A masterpiece like the _Pórtico de Gloria_, dating a century, or even

half a century, later would cause less surprise, but how it comes about

that such a finished and perfect _chef d’œuvre_ could have been

accomplished at so early a date and in such an out-of-the-way part of

the civilised world--is a puzzle.[164] Frenchmen ply their pens with

vigour to prove that Master Matthew was a native of _la belle France_.

Spaniards are equally energetic in their assertions that he was a native

of Spain, and some even go so far as to say that he must have been a

native of Galicia. “There is as yet nothing to prove that Mateo was not

a Gallegan,” writes Lopez Ferreiro. “He lived at Santiago, or at least

in Galicia, from 1161 to 1217, to say the very least; and it is thought

that he was born and educated in Galicia. He was a layman, with a wife

and children.”--And as this writer is one of Spain’s greatest living

historians as well as a famous archæologist, his opinion has weight. He

tells us that from the end of the eleventh century there flourished in

Santiago a school of artists for all branches of art--an institution

which was the means of producing marvellous results. To begin with, it

produced the cathedral itself, and at the same time it produced the most

exquisite specimens of silver and copper workmanship. This school was

enriched, in 1135, by Alfonso VII., with many privileges, which were

also enjoyed by later generations of artists. There still exists a

diploma given to Mateo by Ferdinand, King of Leon, on 23rd February

1168. This king, on the occasion of a royal pilgrimage to the sepulchre

of St. James, granted Mateo a pension of 4200 pesetas (or francs) a

year. It seems that Mateo started the work at once, and took twenty

years to accomplish it; during those twenty years the Gothic style of

architecture had been slowly gaining ground. We see it in the elegant

vaulting of the _Pórtico_ and in its graceful groining.

_The Historia Compostelana_ contains not a single allusion to the

Pórtico de Gloria, which does not seem to have been even planned at the

time that manuscript was written.

Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain · 第 9 / 27 章