PALERMO AND THE SICILIANS—EVENTS AT NAPLES—DEATH OF LADY KNIGHT—THE
HAMILTONS AND LORD NELSON—EXECUTION OF CARACCIOLI—ARRIVAL OF SIR
ARTHUR PAGET—DEPARTURE FOR MALTA.
AT last we got fairly off, and, after a voyage of thirty hours, arrived
in sight of Palermo. Accustomed as I had been to the lovely and
magnificent scenery of Italy, I was not less surprised than delighted
with the picturesque beauty of the Sicilian coast. Then, when the
prospect of the city opened upon us, with the regal elegance of its
marble palaces, and the fanciful singularity of its remaining specimens
of Saracenic architecture, it was like a fairy scene, and would have
charmed me beyond measure had not my poor mother fallen seriously ill in
consequence of her long exposure in the boat on the night we left
Naples.
On our arrival we heard sad accounts of Lord Nelson’s voyage. Exposed to
all the fury of the storm which we had escaped, the flag-ship had been
in the greatest danger, and had suffered considerably in her masts and
rigging. Prince Albert, the king’s youngest son, had died of
sea-sickness, and his funeral was the first welcome which this noble
island could give to the royal personages who now took refuge on its
shores.
It was, I think, on the 1st of January, 1799, that we landed, and went
to the only hotel then in Palermo, the same that is mentioned by
Brydone[72] in his Travels, and being shown into the only tolerable
room, if such it might be called, we observed the portrait of the
mistress of the house in the costume which he describes.
We were, in all, about two thousand persons who left Naples at that
time. The French entered the city about a fortnight after the king’s
departure, and took possession of the castles, but they seldom ventured
into the streets except in large parties, as the lazzaroni were greatly
irritated against them. The environs, too, swarmed with armed peasants,
under the command of Cardinal Ruffo, a man of singular ability and
decision of character, and endowed with every advantage of mind and body
that is sought for in a military leader. Though a cardinal, he had never
taken holy orders, and, previous to his elevation to the purple, had
been treasurer to the Pope.
It was some time before I could remove my mother from the miserable
hotel in which we were lodged, and opposite to which was the principal
gaol of the town. As the street was narrow we could hear the groans and
lamentations of the wretched creatures all through the night. One of the
prisoners, however, used to stand at his grated window with his guitar,
on which he played exceedingly well.
At length we took apartments on the Marino, a magnificent promenade of
considerable length. It consisted of a row of good houses, some of them
really handsome buildings, a wide road for carriages, and along the
sea-shore a terrace for foot passengers, with statues of the kings of
Sicily at regular intervals. The Marino led to a beautiful garden named
the Flora Reale, for in Sicily all gardens are called Flora, and in the
summer-time bands of music used to play there for the entertainment of
the company. The garden belonged to the king, and near it was a very
pretty villa, which Sir William Hamilton occupied until he moved to a
larger one near the Mole.
The Sicilians appeared to me to be an active and intelligent people. It
was wonderful to see the improvements and resources which started up in
Palermo after the arrival of so many strangers. It seemed as if the
inhabitants wanted nothing but encouragement for their industry. There
was something in the shape and colour of their eyes, in the regularity
of their features, and in the expressiveness of their countenances, that
indicated their Grecian origin, while the curious vestiges of Moorish
architecture, and many other reminiscences of that nation, added to the
interest which they inspired. Traces of the Norman conquest, too, were
observable in the fair complexions and light hair which, so rare in
Southern Italy, were here by no means uncommon.
The Sicilian dialect, also, has caught something of the different
languages spoken by the various peoples who have successively inhabited
the island, though softened by the poetical genius of the natives, and
rendered suitable for verse. The peculiarity of Sicilian music is
mentioned by Dr. Burney[73] in his history of that science. It was
delightful to hear it on fine moonlight nights from the vessels and
boats that entered or crossed the bay. The sailors used to sing many of
those hymns which afterwards had such great success in England.
Of flowers they were particularly fond, and cultivated them with great
care. They also displayed great taste in arranging flowers to decorate
their rooms, and in the adjustment of drapery. The rocky ground and
coast of Palermo were covered with the Indian fig, or prickly pear as we
call it. The leaves are very large, and the fruit, which the common
people devour greedily, is said to be remarkably wholesome. The
Sicilians generally enjoyed excellent health, and I suppose there is
hardly any civilised country where so little medicine is taken. Cold
water was the usual prescription for bruises and abrasions, and it
always worked a speedy cure, after more scientific applications had
failed.
A grand dinner was given on the 4th June, 1799, at our minister’s, and
there was a ball at Court in the evening. About this time I remarked a
very singular phenomenon. I observed a little island opposite to us, of
a picturesque form, and apparently not much more distant than Capri is
from Naples. Whenever there were a few light clouds in the horizon I
could clearly distinguish it, but if the sky happened to be entirely
cloudless, I could see nothing of it. In answer to my inquiries, I was
told that there was no such island visible, and that I must have
mistaken a cloud for one. Still I persisted in my belief, because it had
always the same shape, and at last I sketched it. On showing this
drawing to some of our officers, they said that it resembled one of the
Lipari islands which lies at a short distance from the rest of the
group. The image of this islet had been reflected on the light clouds
when they were at a certain angle to its image in the sea, something in
the way of the fairy palaces at Messina of which so much has been said.
Soon after our king’s birthday most of our ships sailed for Naples,
where Captain Foote, in conjunction with Cardinal Ruffo, had already
succeeded in checking the progress of the enemy. A capitulation had been
accepted, which was not sanctioned by the Court, and afterwards became
the cause of much animadversion. Commodore Troubridge very wisely
forbore interfering with the political concerns of the Neapolitan
government. He had the command of the ships which were now despatched
for the recovery of that kingdom, and proved completely successful. The
islands were retaken, and the fortresses surrendered, with the
assistance of a very few regular troops, Neapolitans and Russians. The
commander of the Russian troops had said that the Castle of St. Elmo
could not be taken in less than three months, and by an army some
thousands strong. The commodore, however, captured it in a fortnight,
with a few hundred seamen and others. The Sicilians would have it, that
it was through the help of Santa Rosalia, whose festival occurred about
that time.
The king then went with Lord Nelson to take once more possession of his
capital, where he established a council of regency, and afterwards
returned to Palermo, where the queen and the royal family had remained.
It was during the absence of our fleet and of Sir William and Lady
Hamilton, who had accompanied the king, that my mother’s lengthened
sufferings came to an end, and that I was deprived of her enlightened
judgment for my protection and guidance, and of her animated and
instructive conversation for my comfort and delight. She had sustained
many trials with fortitude and dignity. Her mind was clear and
penetrating, and her heart warm and generous.
When Sir William Hamilton and Lord Nelson came to take leave of her
before their departure for Naples, she had particularly commended me to
their care, and, previous to their embarkation, Sir William and Lady
Hamilton had left directions with Mrs. Cadogan[74] that, in case I
should lose my mother before their return, she was to take me to their
house. That lady came for me, and I went with her to our minister’s,
knowing that it was my mother’s wish that I should be under his
protection; and I must say that there was certainly at that time no
impropriety in living under Lady Hamilton’s roof. Her house was the
resort of the best company of all nations, and the attentions paid to
Lord Nelson appeared perfectly natural. He himself always spoke of his
wife with the greatest affection and respect; and I remember that,
shortly after the battle of the Nile, when my mother said to him that no
doubt he considered the day of that victory as the happiest in his life,
he answered, “No; the happiest was that on which I married Lady Nelson.”
It is painful to reflect on the scenes that passed at Naples; and no one
can have a greater dislike than myself to political executions, because,
however legally just they may be, they are revolting to humanity, and do
no good to the cause which they are meant to uphold. On the contrary,
they create a feeling of exasperation, and excite compassion in favour
of the guilty. But it is only right to say that Caraccioli was taken in
arms against the forces of his sovereign, that he was tried by a
court-martial of Neapolitan officers, and executed on board of a
Neapolitan ship. I grieved for his fate, and still more for his
defection, but many strange misrepresentations have been circulated on
this subject.[75] The queen, who has been accused of so much vindictive
cruelty, was, to my certain knowledge, the cause of many pardons being
granted. And there was one lady in particular whom she saved, who was
her declared enemy, and at the head of a revolutionary association.
There was for many months a Spanish squadron at Palermo, that being a
neutral port, but it dared not venture out to sea for fear of being
taken by our ships, which kept a sharp look-out after it. The officers
seemed to be quite domiciliated at Palermo, and the commodore appeared
to be a very good-natured, obliging man, though, from etiquette, he
could not visit the English.
Lord Keith,[76] who had the chief command in the Mediterranean, arrived
one day, with his lady, on board the _Queen Charlotte_, a noble
three-decker. He often slept on shore at our minister’s, and always
brought with him his flag-lieutenant and secretary. He expressed himself
glad to see me, from having known and esteemed my father, and he was
very civil to everybody, though, from his desire to restore the
discarded _queues_, he afforded not a little embarrassment to many of
the younger officers. Lord William Stuart used to tie a few hairs
together, and, whenever he met Lord Keith, made him the drollest bow
imaginable, twisting his head round to show the attempt at a pigtail.
Lord William had great comic humour, and was an excellent dancer, but as
commander of a ship of war, the _Lion_, he was strictly exact to his
duty, and never made a difficulty or complained of a hardship.
And at that time our officers had much to contend with, for,
notwithstanding the good intentions and wise regulations of Lord
Spencer, who was First Lord of the Admiralty, the demands upon him were
so numerous and extensive from our various squadrons employed in every
part of the globe, that great delay sometimes occurred in sending off
stores and provisions. Many of our captains, to my knowledge, did not
spare their own purses that their men might be supplied with such wine,
and food as were required for the preservation of their health. It is no
less worthy of remark that I cannot recal to mind a single scandalous
story relating to any of our officers serving in that gay and
fascinating latitude. There were no duels, no rioting. Our people were
beloved and respected by the inhabitants, and maintained the reputation,
which they had acquired by their victories, of being the guardians and
preservers of Italy and her islands.
The _Généreux_, a French ship of the line, which had escaped from the
battle of the Nile, and taken refuge in the port of La Valetta, in
Malta, was captured by our cruisers while endeavouring to gain Toulon.
When Lord Nelson heard the good news, he exclaimed, “Ah! she knew that
she belonged to us, and her conscience would not let her stay away any
longer.” This affair was also the occasion of another additional stanza
being inserted in the national anthem.[77]
While thus we chant his praise,
See what new fires blaze!
New laurels spring![78]
Nelson! thy task’s complete;
All their Egyptian fleet
Bows at thy conqu’ring feet
To George our King!
The _William Tell_ was also taken, after a sharp conflict, and the sea
was cleared of the enemy.
Sir Charles Stuart, having been sent into Sicily with a few troops under
his command, drew up a plan for the defence of the island in case of
attack. This paper, at the request of Sir William Hamilton and Lord
Nelson, I translated into Italian, as I did many papers in that language
into English. As they were confidential, I have, of course, kept no
copies.
Previous to the French invasion, Sir William Hamilton had applied for
leave of absence to visit his property in Wales, adding that if he could
not obtain this favour, for which he had asked more than once, he should
be obliged to tender his resignation. No notice whatever was taken of
this application at the time, but, at a moment when he least expected
it, he received a letter from the Foreign Office, informing him that his
request was granted, and that Sir Arthur Paget was to succeed him as
minister. He was, I believe, very sorry, but made no complaints,
candidly admitting that he did once say he must give up his post.
When Sir Arthur[79] arrived, nothing could be more amiable than his
conduct towards Sir William, who, on his part, showed him every
attention, and gave him much confidential information likely to be of
great service to him in his new situation. Sir William also took care to
inform the Court of Naples, and all persons of influence, of the family,
connexions, and political principles of the new minister, so that proper
respect should be paid to him. I am convinced, however, that Sir William
himself felt great regret at leaving the Two Sicilies. Mount Vesuvius,
Pompeii, the antiquities of all descriptions which he had made his
study, the climate, the mode of life, all this was hard to leave. He was
truly beloved by the people of the country, and I heard a sensible
Neapolitan nobleman make the remark, that during the thirty years Sir
William Hamilton had resided at that Court, he had never injured any
one, but had always employed his influence to benefit the deserving.
Sir William had a well-selected, though not large, collection of
paintings, vases, and other works of art. He was fond of music, and had
an excellent taste. His first wife was an admirable performer on the
pianoforte. The second one, not having enjoyed the same advantages of
education, had no scientific knowledge of music, but an ear and a voice
that left nothing to be desired. She was possessed, indeed, of great
natural genius, which, added to her beauty, had completely fascinated
Sir William. She made herself very useful in public affairs during the
distressing circumstances which took place in consequence of the French
Revolution. Altogether, she was a singular mixture of right and
wrong.[80]
Lord Nelson’s presence being much needed at Malta, to direct the
operations of the blockading squadron, Sir William and Lady Hamilton
decided on accompanying him. At first I declined being one of the party,
but when I heard that it was the admiral’s intention to visit Syracuse,
and perhaps other parts of the island, I could not resist the
temptation, nor was I disappointed in my expectations.
------------------------------------------------------------------------