From the distance are heard weak, shrill, bleating sounds. They do not

escape the attentive ears of the mothers. A loud and simultaneous call

from every throat is the answer; all the maternal longing, increased to

the utmost by the long waiting, is condensed in a single cry. And from

the distance, down from the hills towards the yurt, the eager lambs and

kids come rushing to find their mothers; the biggest and strongest in

front, the youngest and weakest behind, but all hurrying, running and

leaping, almost enveloped in a cloud of dust; and stretching out into

a longer procession the nearer they approach their goal. An apparently

inextricable confusion arises, old and young, united at last, run

hither and thither, touching each other lightly as they pass, to find

out, by touch as well as by smell, whether they have found their

own or not; both run on if this is not the case, the lambs and kids,

however, in most cases only after they have been made aware of their

mistake by a push or tread from the mother animal. Gradually the dense

crowd dissolves, for by degrees, in a much shorter time than one would

imagine, every mother has found her child, every child its mother, and

the young one now kneels down under its parent, eagerly drawing from

the udder what milk remains. And if the bleating still continues, the

sounds are now indicative only of the liveliest satisfaction.

But this state of mutual delight does not last long. The udders,

already milked, are quickly exhausted, and, in spite of all the thrusts

of the suckling, the fountain will flow no longer. But mother and young

still enjoy the pleasure of being together. The mixed flock spreads

out in all directions, the complaisant mother following the lively

youngster as it climbs the nearest height after the manner of its kind,

or looking contentedly on when a little kid tries its strength in

playful combat with another of its own age. The whole space round the

yurt is picturesquely decorated by the lively flocks, a most charming

picture of peaceful and comfortable pastoral life lies before the eyes

of those who have feeling and understanding to enjoy it.

The women now allow themselves a short rest, take their children in

their laps, and fulfil their maternal duties or desires. But more

work awaits them. A lowing announces the approach of the cows, also

eager for their share of maternal joy, and the industrious women rise

hastily, bring the calves which were tied up beforehand to the cows,

let them suck for a little, wrench them from the udder again, and only

after milking allow the calves full freedom. Meanwhile the shepherds

and dogs have once more collected the sheep and goats, and now old and

young, men and women, boys and girls, unite in the work of catching the

lambs and fastening them in rows, with nooses which are firm without

being too tight, to a cord in front of the yurt, so that the mothers

cannot suckle. As may be supposed, this is not completed without much

bleating and noise, and mingled with it are the cries and wailings of

the children wearying for their mothers, the lowing of cows, and the

barking of dogs. Only the lambs and kids just tied submit quietly to

the inevitable. A few kids still try their sprouting horns in playful

duels, but they soon tire, and lay themselves peaceably down opposite

their quondam rivals. Before the long row is fastened most of the young

ones have tucked in their legs and given themselves up to repose. One

mother-sheep and goat after another sniffs at the little ones till she

has found her own, but returns to the flock when she has satisfied

herself that it is impossible to lie down beside her offspring.

The sun has long since disappeared from the horizon, and twilight has

given place to darkness. It becomes quieter and quieter in the yurt.

Men and animals have sought and found rest; only the dogs begin their

rounds under the guidance of a watchful herdsman; but even they only

bark when there is a real reason for it, when it is necessary to scare

away some prowling wolf or other thief. A cool, but fragrant, dewy

summer night descends upon the steppe, and the refreshing slumber of

this richest and most beautiful season blots out the hardships of

winter from the memory of man and beast alike.

FAMILY AND SOCIAL LIFE AMONG THE KIRGHIZ.

To escape the threatening hand of justice, four thieves fled from

the homes of honest men, and sought refuge and concealment in the

vast steppe. On their flight, they fell in with two beggar-women,

driven out, like themselves, from among their industrious fellows.

The beggar-women found favour in the eyes of the thieves, and they

married them, two thieves taking one woman. A great many children

resulted from these alliances, so contrary to the laws of God and man,

and the children became the parents of a numerous people who spread

over the hitherto uninhabited steppe. But they were faithful to their

origin--thieves like their fathers, beggars like their mothers, and

like both in being without religion or morals. This people is the

Kirghiz, whose name signifies “Robber”.

Thus a religious Tartar poet pictures the origin, and describes the

character of a people closely related to his own, who speak the same

language, and worship the same God according to the precepts of the

same prophet. He speaks thus, solely because the Kirghiz, in matters of

religion, cling less slavishly to words, and think less narrowly than

he does. His words simply illustrate the old and ever new story; the

offence which the poet’s words express is constantly repeated among

every people, the pious lie, which no sect has shrunk from uttering, to

lower the credit of those who think differently from themselves.

But the traveller who sojourns among the Kirghiz, the stranger

who seeks and receives hospitality under the light roof of their

yurt, the scholar who endeavours to investigate their manners and

customs, the official who lives among them as guardian of the law,

or as representative of the State; in a word, everyone who has much

intercourse with them, and is unprejudiced, gives an account of them

widely different from that of the Tartar poet.

There was a time when the Kirghiz in general justified their name,

but this time has long gone by, at least as far as most branches of

the different hordes are concerned. The sentiments, the adventurous

expeditions, and brigand exploits of their fathers may awaken an echo

in the breast of every Kirghiz; but, on the whole, these horsemen of

the steppe have submitted to the laws of their present rulers, live

at peace among themselves, as well as with their neighbours, respect

the rights of property, and do not rob and steal oftener or more than

other people, but rather more rarely and less. Under Russian dominion

the Kirghiz of to-day live in such satisfactory circumstances, that

their fellow-tribesmen beyond the boundaries look with envy on the

Russian subjects. Under the protection of their government they enjoy

quietness and peace, security of property, and religious freedom; they

are almost entirely exempt from military service, and are taxed in a

manner which must be acknowledged as reasonable in every respect; they

have the right of choosing their own district governors, and many other

privileges to the enjoyment of which the Russians themselves have not

as yet attained. Unfortunately, these governors are not so reasonable

as the government, and they hamper, oppress, and overreach the Kirghiz

whenever and in whatever way they can. But, happily, they have not

been able in any way to influence the manners and customs of the people.

The Kirghiz are a race of true horsemen, and can scarcely be thought

of apart from their horses; they grow up with the foal and live with

the horse till death. It is not, indeed, on horseback only that the

Kirghiz is at home, for he understands how to ride every kind of

animal which can bear him at all: but the horse is always, and under

all circumstances, his favourite bearer and most cherished companion.

He transacts all his business on horseback, and the horse is looked

upon as the only steed worthy of a man. Men and women ride in the same

fashion, not a few of the women with the same skill as the men. The

position of the rider is lazy and comfortable, not very pleasing to

the eye of the spectator. The Kirghiz rides in short buckled stirrups,

without a leg-guard, touching the front edge of the saddle with the

knees only, and thus balancing himself freely; trotting, he raises

himself in the stirrups, often standing upright in them, and bending

his head so far forward that it almost touches the horse’s neck; when

the horse walks or gallops, as it usually does, he holds himself

erect. He holds the reins with the whole hand. The knout, which is

held by the loop or knot, he uses with the thumb, index and middle

fingers. Falling out of the saddle is by no means a rare occurrence,

for he takes not the slightest heed of ways and paths, but leaves the

horse to find these for itself. And even if he be of more careful

mood, he will take any path which the beast can tread, with as little

hesitation as he mounts the wildest, most intractable horse. Difficult

paths do not exist for him; in fact, path simply means the distance

across a given area; what may lie between the beginning and the end

of the journey is to him a matter of the utmost indifference. As long

as he is in the saddle he expects incredible things of his steed,

and gallops uphill or downhill, over firm ground or through bog,

morass, or water; without giddiness or any of the fear which seizes

him when afoot, he climbs precipices which any other rider would deem

impassable, and looks calmly down from the saddle into the abyss by

the side of the goat-track, which he calls a road, where even the most

expert mountaineer would be unable to repress a shudder. When he has

dismounted, he acts upon all the rules deduced from long experience

for the care of an over-strained horse, and is as careful of it as he

had previously been inconsiderate. On festive occasions the Kirghiz

performs feats of horsemanship for the amusement of the spectators,

who are never awanting; he raises himself erect in the stirrups, which

are crossed over the saddle, and springs from them without falling,

he holds fast to the saddle or stirrups with his hands, and stretches

his legs into the air, or hangs from one side of the saddle, and

attempts to pick up some object from the ground, but he does not seem

to practise the military sports of his Turkish relatives. Racing is to

him the greatest of all pleasures, and every festival is celebrated by

a race.

To the race, which is called “Baika”, only the finest horses, and of

these only amblers are usually admitted. The distances to be traversed

are always considerable,--never less than twenty, and frequently forty

kilometres: the riders make for a certain point in the steppe, such

as a hillock, or a burial-place, and then return as they went. Boys

of seven, eight, or at most ten years of age, sit in the saddle, and

guide the horses with remarkable skill. The spectators ride slowly to

meet the returning horses, give help, called “guturma”, to the steed

which seems to have most chance of winning, by taking off the little

rider, seizing reins, stirrups, mane, and tail, and leading, or rather

dragging it to the goal between fresh horses. The prizes raced for

consist of various things, but are always reckoned as equivalent to

so many horses. Two or three thousand silver roubles are frequently

offered as the first prize: among the richer families the stakes are

one hundred horses or their equivalent. Young girls, too, are sometimes

offered as prizes, the winner of one being allowed to marry her without

making the usual payment to her family.

While the race-horses are on their way, the men often pass the time

by exercising their own physical powers. Two men divest themselves

of their outer garments, baring the shoulders and upper parts of the

body, and begin to wrestle. The mode of attack varies. The combatants

seize one another, bend towards one another, turn about in a circle,

each always watching the other carefully, and seeking to parry every

effort, real or feigned, till suddenly one of them exerts his full

strength, and the other, if he has not foreseen this, is thrown to the

ground. Others begin the attack more impetuously, but meet with such

strenuous resistance that the struggle lasts a long time before one

succeeds in vanquishing his opponent. The spectators encourage them,

praise and blame, cheer and scoff, betting among themselves the while,

and becoming more and more excited as the balance inclines to one side

or the other. At length, one lies on the ground, laughed at by the

whole company, ashamed and humiliated, in his secret heart probably

embittered. Cries from every throat fill the air, pieces of cloth,

perhaps only rags of cotton, are torn up and distributed to balance

accounts; reproaches mingle with shouts of applause, and the match is

over, unless the vanquished one suddenly seeks his revenge, and attacks

his Opponent once more. A wrestling match never comes to an end without

noise, screaming, and wrangling, but actual fighting seldom takes place.

[Illustration: Fig. 71.--Hunting the Wolf with the Golden Eagle.]

Hunting must be reckoned among the equestrian sports of the Kirghiz.

When a sportsman gets on the track Of a wolf, he follows it with such

eagerness and persistence that he takes little heed though the cold,

doubly felt when riding quickly, should seriously imperil him, that is,

if his face and hands should become frozen; for, if his horse holds

out, he almost certainly succeeds at length in throwing his heavy club

at his victim’s head. But his favourite mode of hunting is with eagles

and greyhounds. Like his forefathers, he understands how to tame and

carry the golden eagle, and with the bird sitting on his thickly-gloved

hand, which is supported on a wooden rest fastened to the saddle, he

ascends some hillock from which he can command a wide view. Meanwhile,

his companions beat the surrounding steppe for game. The game may be

wolf or fox, unless the eagle is not yet thoroughly trained, in which

case it is either a marmot or a fox. No very special training of the

eagle is required; it is only necessary that it be taken young from the

nest, that it be always fed by the sportsman himself, and that it be

taught to return to its master at his call: inherited habit does the

rest. As soon as the beaters have started a fox, the huntsman unhoods

and unchains his bird, and lets it fly. The eagle spreads its wings,

begins to circle, and rises in a spiral higher and higher, spies the

hard-pressed fox, flies after him, descends obliquely upon him with

half-closed wings, and strikes its outspread talons into its victim’s

body. The fox turns round in a fury, and attempts to seize his foe

with his sharp teeth; if he succeeds, the eagle is lost. But almost

all these birds of prey, which are as strong as they are bold, have an

instinctive feeling of such danger, and the skill to avoid it. The very

moment the fox turns, the eagle lets go its hold, and an instant later

its talons are fixed in its quarry’s face. Triumphant acclamations from

its much-loved master, who now draws near, encourage the eagle to hold

fast, and a few minutes later the fox, felled by the huntsman, lies

dying on the ground. Many an eagle has to pay for the boldness of its

first venture with its life; but if the first attempt is successful,

it soon becomes so skilful that it can be flown at a wolf. Though the

attack on the wolf is made in precisely the same manner, the eagle’s

bearing is, from the very beginning, perceptibly more cautious;

the size of the wolf teaches it that it has to do with a much more

dangerous foe. But it learns to vanquish even the wolf, and its fame,

as well as its master’s, spreads abroad among the people, and as its

renown becomes greater its value increases. An eagle which can kill a

fox is worth thirty or forty silver roubles; one which can vanquish a

wolf is valued at twice or three times as much, if, indeed, its master

would sell it at all. It is not possible to hunt with two eagles, as

one would disturb the other; but one alone often enters into the chase

with so much ardour that it makes it very difficult for its master to

help, especially if it will not willingly let go its hold of the quarry

it has seized.

If the Kirghiz who is hunting with an eagle requires to bring all his

powers of horsemanship into play, that is still more necessary when

hunting antelopes with greyhounds. These rather long-haired dogs run

like shot arrows when they have sighted the game, and the rider courses

after them up hill and down dale until he and they have overtaken

the fleet fugitive. If anyone falls on such a ride, he earns only a

half-pitying, half-mocking smile, as the mad hunt rushes past him.

[Illustration: Fig. 72.--Kirghiz in pursuit of Wild Sheep.]

Even when driving game among the mountains, the Kirghiz do not dismount

from their horses. It was a magnificent sight to see the horsemen who

were driving wild sheep for our guns in the Arkat mountains begin their

break-neck ride. Here and there on the highest points, as well as in

the hollows, valleys, and ravines between them, one horseman after

another showed up clearly against the clouds, and was lost to view

again between masses of rock, to appear shortly afterwards upon the

stony slopes. None dismounted, none hesitated an instant to choose his

path. It was easier for them to ride among the mountains than to walk.

The sportsman’s endurance is on a par with his boldness. Not only on

horseback, but while stalking and lying in wait for his game, he shows

marvellous perseverance. That he follows a trail for several days is

not remarkable, when we take his love of riding into account; but with

the matchlock, which he still uses as often as the flintlock, in his

hand, he will creep for five or six hundred yards along the ground like

a stealthy cat, or lie in wait for hours in storm and rain until the

game comes within range of his gun. He never shoots at long range, and

never without resting the barrel of his gun on the fork attached to it,

but he aims with certainty, and knows exactly where to send his bullet.

Though the Kirghiz is thus persistent and untiring as horseman,

sportsman, and herdsman, he is very unwilling to do any other kind of

work. He tills the fields, but in the most careless manner, and never

more than is absolutely imperative. Tilling the soil appears to him as

inglorious as every other employment not connected with his flocks and

herds. He is remarkably skilful in turning water aside for purposes of

irrigation, has a highly-developed sense of locality, and can mark out

his drains without using a surveyor’s table or water-level. But it is

only in his boyhood that he takes up such work with any willingness;

after he has attained to possessions of his own he never touches pick

or shovel again. Still less does he like to work at any trade. He knows

how to prepare leather, to fashion it into all kinds of straps and

saddlery, and to decorate these very tastefully with iron or silver

work, and he can even make knives and weapons, but when he does such

work, it is always unwillingly and without taking any pleasure in it.

Yet he is by no means a lazy or careless workman, but is diligent and

conscientious, and whoever has succeeded in gaining his skilful hand

has seldom reason to be dissatisfied with it.

He rates mental work much more highly than physical. His eager, active

mind demands occupation, and thus he likes not only light conversation,

but serious discussions of all kinds, chiefly, perhaps, because of

the variety they give to his monotonous life. So he amuses himself in

converse with others of his tribe, and he can become a perfect bore

to a stranger with his glibness of speech, which often degenerates

to mere chatter. With this love of talking is closely connected a

thirst for knowledge, which in the same way often degenerates into

inquisitiveness, for the “red tongue” is never allowed a holiday.

Whatever the wind blows over the steppe the listening ear of the

Kirghiz picks up and the “red tongue” clothes in words. If anything is

discussed which the Kirghiz understands or does not understand, if any

conversation takes place in a language with which he is acquainted,

he has no hesitation in making his way to the yurt and, invited or

otherwise, pressing his ear to its walls, so as to lose no syllable. To

keep to himself an occurrence which differs from the everyday routine

by a hair’s-breadth, an event of any kind, a piece of information, or

a secret, is to the Kirghiz an utter impossibility. Does the noble

horse keep silence when he sees anything which excites his interest,

or the sheep and the goat when they meet with their fellows? Does the

lark soar up from its nest on the steppe in silence? And shall the

lord of the steppe be more silent than they? Never! “Speak on, red

tongue, while thou hast life, for after death thou shalt be still.” An

uninterrupted stream of speech flows from the lips of every Kirghiz.

Two men never ride silently together, even though their journey lasts

for days. The whole time they find something to talk about, some

communication to make to each other. Usually it does not nearly satisfy

them to ride in pairs; three or four of them ride abreast wherever the

path admits of it. This way of riding is so deeply rooted in them that

the horses press close together of their own accord, and a European is

obliged to rein them in to prevent their doing so. In a yurt filled

with Kirghiz there is a buzzing like that about a bee-hive, for

everyone wishes to speak, and does everything he can to gain a hearing.

One good result of this love of talking, so unusual among men, is

the command of language which they acquire. In this they seem all

alike, rich and poor, high and low, educated and uneducated. Their

rich, sonorous, but rather hard language, though only a dialect of the

Tartar, is remarkably expressive. Even a foreigner who is unacquainted

with it can feel that every word is distinctly pronounced, every

syllable correctly accented, so that one can almost make out the sense

from the sound. Their way of speaking is very sprightly, the cadence

of each phrase corresponding to its meaning, and the pauses correctly

observed, so that a conversation sounds somewhat broken, though the

flow of speech is never arrested for a moment. An expression of face

which speaks for itself, and very lively gestures, add to the effect

of their speech. If the subject be particularly interesting, their

vivacity is apt to increase to such a pitch of excitement that one

begins to fear that from words they will go on to blows. But even the

most heated wordy strife invariably ends in quietness and peace.

It will be readily understood that the bard holds a prominent place

among such a people. Everyone who distinguishes himself above his

fellows by his fluency of speech gains respect and honour. The presence

of a singer who can improvise is indispensable to every festival. His

creative power need not be of a very high order; but his words must

flow without interruption and in a definite and familiar metre to gain

him the reputation of a poet. But every Kirghiz bard has at his command

a store of poetic ideas which is by no means scanty, and to clothe

these ideas in words is easy enough to him. The nomadic pastoral life,

though on the whole monotonous, has its charms, and certain chords only

require to be struck to give keen pleasure to every hearer. Numerous

sagas and legends, which live in the minds of all, yield abundant

material for filling up blanks; and thus the bard’s narrative flows on

like a calm stream whose springs never dry up: it is only necessary

to keep it in the proper metre to make him a poet for ever. Even this

is made easy to him; for every bard accompanies his recitative on the

three-stringed Kirghiz zither, and as he links on each measure to the

next by playing on this, he can make the interlude last until the next

verse has taken shape in his mind. The speed and skill with which this

is done determines his rank as a poet. But if a woman is inspired to

poetry she is sure of universal admiration, and if she consents to sing

in competition with a man, the enthusiastic listeners extol her above

all others of her sex.

From North Pole to Equator: Studies of Wild Life and Scenes in Many Lands · 第 38 / 47 段