The dog, which is the least valued animal owned by the Kirghiz, is

always large but not always beautiful, though the difference between

it and the hideous curs to be met with elsewhere in Siberia and

Turkestan is very marked and greatly in its favour. The head is long

but rather heavy, the limbs more like those of a greyhound than a

sheep-dog, the hair long and woolly, the colouring very varied.

Watchful and courageous in the highest degree, he is a worthy adversary

of the wolf, an efficient and careful protector of the weaker herds,

a suspicious sentinel towards strangers, the faithful slave of his

master, an unsociable recluse as far as grown-up people are concerned,

but the willing playmate of the children. He has many of the virtues

of his race, and is therefore to be found in every yurt or at least in

every aul.

The whole life of the Kirghiz centres in his herds,--making use of

them and their products, and to that end tending them carefully. The

former is the chief occupation of the women, the latter the most

important work of the men. With the exception of the bones, which

are thrown away unheeded, every portion of the body of every one of

their animals is used, just as every female among the live stock is

milked as long as possible. The quantity of vegetable food used by the

Kirghiz is extremely small; milk and meat form his chief diet in all

circumstances, and vegetable products are merely accessory. Bread,

in the real sense of the word, he scarcely uses at all, and even the

little lumps of dough which may be reckoned as such, are sodden in

fat, not baked. Flour and rice,--the latter a frequent dish only among

the rich,--also serve to give variety to the everlasting monotony of

milk and meat dishes. Little wonder then that death from starvation

threatens the Kirghiz, indeed too often overtakes him, when general

murrain breaks out among his beasts in the midst of the steppe.

The wealthier people keep the milk of sheep and goats separate from

that of cows, and of mares and camels; poor people mix all the milk in

one vessel, and thus get only the effect of sheep’s milk, while the

rich secure some differentiation of palatal pleasure. From the milk of

sheep and goats, which is invariably milked into the same vessel and

collected in the same leathern bottle, they prepare not only various

dishes, which are eaten at once with or without flour, but also butter,

small, sour or bitter, gritty cheeses, most distasteful to a European

palate, and a yellow curd very agreeable even to our taste, which,

like the cheese, is stored up for use in winter, when it is dissolved

in water to make a sort of soup. Cow’s milk, on the other hand, they

use chiefly as sour milk, and only rarely make into curds, cheese, or

butter, while that of mares and camels is used for making the koumiss

so often described. This is a milk-wine made by allowing milk to

ferment for four days, and by constantly shaking and beating it. It

is much appreciated, and indeed justly prized among the Kirghiz, and

the well-to-do among them often drink it to intoxication on festive

occasions.

During summer even the wealthier Kirghiz live almost entirely on milk

in various forms, for they only kill a member of their herd for a

festival or on some specially important occasion. When winter sets in,

however, sheep and goats, horses and cattle, even camels are killed.

The flesh of the horse, especially of the mare, is looked on as the

noblest, that of cattle as the worst and poorest food. The flesh of

sheep ranks next to horse flesh; camel flesh is good for the soul’s

health; goat flesh is a mark of poverty, or is set before a guest in

expression of contempt. Of the slaughtered horse the loins are most

highly prized, and the breast of the sheep. A dainty of the first order

is the belly fat of a young horse; this is therefore salted, made

into smoked sausages, and set before the honoured guest with as much

ceremony as the koumiss itself.

The Kirghiz turns to profit not only the edible portions but every

usable part of the animals he rears. From the wool of the sheep he

prepares the indispensable felt; he weaves and spins the hair of the

camel, and the mother lays her new-born babe in its soft down-like

under wool. The long hair of the goat is made into fringes for rugs

and cloths, or into tassels or cords; the short woolly hair is spun

and woven into bands for the yurt, and the hair of the horse’s mane

and tail is plaited into much-prized leading-reins or cords for the

yurt. Sheep-skin furnishes the ordinary winter fur coat; the skins of

lambs and kids make valuable fur-trimmings; the flocks of wool rubbed

off make good wadding for lining other garments, and the skins of all

the animals supply leather of different kinds. The Kirghiz barters

the superfluous or little-prized fat of his beasts, and some of his

sheep, cattle, and horses for various other commodities of the general

market; with the proceeds of the sale of his herds he pays his taxes

and tributes, buys the uncoined silver with which he loves to make a

display, the iron which he works, the rugs, garments, and silk stuffs

with which he decks his person and his yurt. The herds are and must

remain the sole support and source of wealth of the nomadic herdsman;

the little land which he occasionally ploughs, sows, waters, and reaps

is hardly worth taking into account.

It is not their own humour, but the necessity of satisfying the

requirements of their stock, that regulates the roamings and

sojournings of the Kirghiz, that compels them to wander this way to-day

and that to-morrow, to rest for a little in one place, and shortly

afterwards to leave it for another. The journeyings of these people are

therefore by no means aimless wanderings about the vast steppe, but

carefully-considered changes of residence determined by the season, and

by the species of animal requiring fresh pasture. The steppe allows no

planless roaming either in summer or winter, autumn or spring; aimless

roving would expose the herds in winter to the most terrible storms,

in summer to the danger of drought; in spring there would probably be

an embarrassing superfluity of fodder, and by autumn the supply would

have unpleasantly diminished. So the Kirghiz begins his journey from

the low-lying plains, ascends slowly to the higher ground and even to

the mountains, then moves slowly back to the low grounds again. But the

various herds have different needs: sheep and goats like hard, fragrant

plants such as are to be found on the salt steppe; horses prefer the

mountain plants, especially those growing among masses of rock, while

the favourite grazing-ground of cattle is soft meadow-land, and camels,

besides eating the hard salt steppe plants, appear to look upon thorns

and thistles as an indispensable part of their food. The well-to-do,

who can group the different animals in separate herds, let each herd

wander and feed by itself, and only the poorer people move from one

place to another with all their stock together. Finally, the movements

of one party are influenced by those of another. There are, indeed,

no landmarks nor boundary stones, but even in the open steppe

rights of possession and definite boundaries are recognized by ancient

agreement; every horde, every branch of a horde, every community, the

members of every aul, claim a right to the land traversed by their

forefathers, and suffer no strange herd or herdsman to encroach on it,

but take to arms and wage bloody warfare with every intruder, even

with other members of the same tribe. This explains the fact that the

nomad herdsman not only travels along definite routes, but restricts

himself to a strictly limited range. His path may occasionally cross

that of another herdsman, but it is never the same, for each respects

the rights of the other, and is prevented by the rest of his tribe from

encroaching upon them.

[Illustration: Fig. 69.--Kirghiz and their Herds on the March in the

Mountains.]

“Settled”, in our sense of the word, the Kirghiz never is, unless in

the grave, but he is not without a home. In the wide sense, his home

is the district through which he travels, in most cases the basin and

valley of a small stream or brook, or, in a more restricted sense, his

winter camping-ground from which he sets forth on his journeys, and to

which he always returns. In the neighbourhood of this camping-ground

rest nearly all, if not all his dead; here he may even have a fixed

dwelling; hither the government sends its messengers to collect his

taxes or appraise his possessions and count the members of his family

and of his herds; here he spends, if not the happiest, at least the

largest part of his life; here, gay and careless as he usually is,

he passes through his severest and most serious trials. The exact

locality of the winter dwelling may vary, but the camping-ground does

not. Indispensable conditions are, that it be as much as possible

protected from the cold, deadly, north and east winds, that the yurt

can be erected on a sunny spot, that fixed houses may be built without

much difficulty, that the necessary supply of water be certain,

and that sufficient pasturage be available within easy distance.

These conditions are best fulfilled by the valley of a river whose

tributaries have cut deeply into the surrounding country, where the

grass does not dry up in summer, so that hay can be cut at the proper

season and yet enough food be left for the herds in winter, and where,

in addition to the dung used for fire-lighting, fuel may be procured

from the willow-bushes and black poplars on the river-bank. Other

localities are only selected when it is a question of taking advantage

of some place, such as the salt steppe, which has to be avoided in

summer because it lacks water, that being supplied in sufficient

abundance for man and beast as soon as snow has fallen. Though the

winter dwelling may be a fixed one, it is always truly miserable, a

musty, damp, dark hut, so lightly built that the inmates depend on

the snow for thickening the walls and roof, and protecting them from

storms. These walls are occasionally made of piled-up tree-trunks,

oftener of rough stones, but most frequently of plaited willows or

bundles of reeds. The roof and thatch are always of reeds. Close beside

the dwelling-house is a similarly-constructed stable for the young

animals, and at some distance there is a shelter for the rest of the

herds.

In the beginning of winter the Kirghiz moves into such a winter

dwelling, unless, as is perhaps usually the case, he prefers the much

more comfortable yurt. The fuel for either has been long ago prepared,

for in the preceding spring he, or rather his wife, upon whom falls

all the heavier and more disagreeable work, mixed the dung of the herd

animals with straw, and worked it into square cakes, which were then

piled in heaps and dried in the sun. All the grass in the immediate

neighbourhood has been carefully spared, so that the herds may graze as

near the dwelling as possible; here, too, the hay which has been mown

at a distance has been collected. If the winter be a good one, that

is, if not much snow falls, the herds find food enough, but if it be

severe, it often renders all precautions futile, and levies a toll on

his herds heavier than is counterbalanced by the spring increase. Thus,

in a good winter, cheerfulness prevails even in the dark hut of the

wandering herdsman, but in a severe one, which reduces his beasts to

walking skeletons, black care and grief visit even the pleasant yurt.

In hut and yurt alike there is either comfort and plenty or bitter want

during that much-dreaded season of the year.

It is not till towards the end of April, in many years not before the

end of May, that the herdsman leaves his winter camp and begins to

travel. The horses, tended by special herdsmen, move on in advance,

so as not to annoy the smaller animals. It is not the lively foals,

born, like the kids, a few weeks before, that cause so much anxiety;

it is the young stallions and mares which are just reaching maturity.

The foals spring about the whole herd in wanton playfulness, but they

do not go far from the mother mares, who are quietly grazing, and

only look up at them now and again. The young stallions and mares, on

the other hand, cause continual uneasiness, and call for the greatest

watchfulness on the part of the herdsmen, whose numbers are doubled

for the time. Now the young males fight with the old, dignified, and

domineering leader of the herd; now the young females throng about the

sire till he is compelled to drive them away with bites; now one or

another of them attempts to escape, and rushes, with head against the

wind and dilated nostrils, out into the steppe. The herdsman at once

urges the horse he is riding to a gallop, and pursues the fugitive in

mad haste up hill and down dale; in his right hand he holds the long

herdsman’s crook, with a noose attached to one end; nearer and nearer

he presses on the young mare. The dreaded lasso is thrown, and is

about to descend on her head, when she suddenly swerves to one side,

and throwing her hind-legs into the air, as if teasing or mocking her

pursuer, she is off again with renewed speed, and the wild chase begins

anew, and goes on, until at length the herdsman succeeds in catching

her, and leading her slowly back to the herd. Entertaining though this

spectacle may be for the unconcerned spectator, perhaps even for the

herdsman himself, such mad hunts would disturb the quiet and regular

progress of the smaller animals, and therefore the owner does not let

his different herds travel together, if it can be avoided. Nor could

sheep and goats cover such distances as the horses do, for not only are

they much enfeebled by the hardships of winter, but the lambs and kids

are not yet strong enough. Separation of the herds is therefore doubly

necessary.

The Kirghiz, when journeying with his smaller animals, at first only

traverses a short distance, a so-called “sheep’s journey” each day, and

he stops wherever there is good pasture, as long as his flocks graze

with avidity. On the journey the flock of sheep, with its shepherd

riding on an ox, leads the way. The sheep proceed at a tolerably

quick pace, now crowding close together, now scattering widely, here

and there stopping their march to enjoy to the full some specially

dainty plant, but eating, or at least nibbling, all the time, and the

herdsman’s steed also grazes uninterruptedly. The flock of ewes and

mother-goats follows that of the lambs and kids, but at such a distance

that they see and hear nothing of each other. The flock of wethers, if

such still exists, or has just been formed, takes a different route.

After all the flocks and herds have set out, the women take down the

yurt, load camels or oxen with it and the few household requisites,

mount their own horses with their children and other members of the

family, and ride slowly after the milk-giving flocks. By mid-day they

overtake them, milk them, and, carrying the milk in leathern bottles,

continue their journey till sundown, when they set up the yurt again.

One day passes like another. When the spring has brought fresh verdure,

they remain for days, later on for weeks, in the same spot, until the

pasturage around is growing scarce; then they move on again. When

advancing spring calls to full life the slumbering insect larvæ, when

swarms innumerable of gnats, flies, gadflies, and other pests fill the

air, they direct their steps, if it be at all possible, towards the

mountains, and climb gradually to the highest plateaus just below the

snow-line. For the shepherd, who gets no assistance from the dogs, it

is a hard enough task to guide the flocks over the plains; but in the

mountains the difficulty of completing his daily “sheep’s journey”

is immense, and it is impossible for him to get over some obstacles

without the aid of other riders. As long as there is a beaten track the

journey goes smoothly on, whether the path winds through flowery plains

or over slopes and precipices. The leading goats survey such places

for a little, as if deliberating, then choosing their path they go on

their way, and the sheep follow them trustfully. But it is a different

matter when, instead of a murmuring brook, a rushing torrent bars the

way, and must be crossed. At sight of the decidedly hostile element

even the bold goats hesitate, ready though they are to adapt themselves

to all circumstances; but the sheep recoil from it in terror, and even

climb the nearest rocks as if to save themselves. In vain the shepherd

rides through the rushing flood; in vain he returns and collects his

flock on the banks. The sheep express their anxiety in loud bleatings,

even the goats bleat hesitatingly, till the shepherd’s patience is

exhausted. For one moment the fateful sling hangs over the head of one

of the sheep; the next, it feels itself caught by the neck, pulled

up to the saddle, and hurled into the seething waters. Now it must

shift for itself. Swimming spasmodically, or rather making a series of

springs, it struggles on from one mass of rock to another, but before

it can gain a footing, it is hurried on by the torrent, and kicks,

flounders, leaps, and swims again, is every now and then carried away

by the flood, but eventually reaches the opposite bank, exhausted more

by terror than by exertion. Trembling in every limb, it satisfies

itself that it is really on dry land again, shakes its dripping fleece,

looks back timidly once more, and then begins to feed greedily to make

up for the discomfort it has suffered. Meanwhile the rest of the flock

have crossed the torrent one after another, either of their own accord

or compulsorily, and when all have been collected again the march is

resumed. In this manner the nomadic herdsman gradually reaches the

mountains. When it begins to grow cold, when perhaps a slight fall of

snow suggests the approach of winter, herdsman and herd turn downwards

again, this time through the shadiest gorges, till the low-lying plain

is reached, and the circle is completed at the winter camping-ground.

This is the regular yearly routine.

All the Kirghiz domestic animals accustom themselves very quickly to

the different districts in which they graze, wherever the place may be.

After having gone to a pasture once or twice, all know the way thither

again, they find it unfailingly without the herdsman, and return of

their own accord to the yurt to be milked. There is certainly a strong

inducement for them to do so, for from May onwards the young of all

milk-yielding animals are kept from their mothers, and yet allowed to

graze in the neighbourhood of the aul, so that longing for their young

is kept alive in the maternal hearts. Thus milking can always take

place at the same hour, and the mistress of the yurt can regulate her

work and portion out her day.

[Illustration: Fig. 70.--Kirghiz Aul, or Group of Tents.]

With the exception of the mares, which are always milked by men, and

often require the attention of at least two, and not rarely of three

during the process, all the milking is done by the women. Early in

the morning the calves, lambs, and kids are allowed to suck a little

under strict supervision, and are then separated from the mothers, old

and young being driven to their respective pastures. At mid-day the

mothers, without the young, are brought to the yurt to be milked, and

again in the evening the mothers are brought in before the young for

the same purpose. With the help of the dogs, which render no other

service, the whole flock is gathered into a limited space, and the

work begins. The mistress and servants of a yurt, or those who live

together as neighbours in an aul, appear with their milk vessels,

and dexterously seizing one sheep after another, drag it to a rope

stretched between poles, pass a sling formed by the rope itself round

the neck of each, and thus force the animals to remain standing in rows

with the heads turned inwards, the udders outwards. In this manner

thirty or forty head of sheep and goats are fastened together in a few

minutes, and the so-called “kögön” is formed. Taught by experience,

the animals stand perfectly still as soon as they feel the string,

and submit passively to all that follows. The women, sitting opposite

each other, begin at one end, or if there are many sheep, at both

ends of the double row, seize the short teats between forefinger and

thumb, and exhaust the milk with rapid pulls. If it does not flow

freely they shake the udder with a blow from the left hand, exactly as

the sucking young ones do, and only when even by this means nothing

more can be obtained do they proceed to the next sheep. The men of

the yurt or aul, who may perhaps have helped to catch and fasten the

sheep and goats, sit about in all sorts of positions, impossible and

almost inconceivable to us, and allow their “red tongue” the fullest

freedom. Some of the little boys make their first venture at riding on

the sheep, unless they prefer the shoulders of their mothers for that

purpose. The latter are as little distracted by these doings of their

offspring as by any other little incidents. Whether they sit on the dry

ground or in fresh sheep’s dung, whether some of that falls into their

poplar-wood vessels, affects them little, for the vessel is in any

case as dirty as the hand which milks; and though sheep’s dung may be

unclean in our eyes it is not so in those of the Kirghiz, who believe

in the Koran. At length the milking is at an end and the animals, which

have been tethered all this time and have been ruminating for want of

better employment, can be released; a quick pull at one end of the

cord, all the slings are undone, and the sheep and goats are free.

A general, simultaneous bleating is the first expression of their

delight in their newly-recovered freedom; a short, quickly-repeated

shaking throws off the last recollections of their undignified

servitude; and then they run off as quickly as possible, in the plains

as far away from the yurt as the herdsman allows, in the mountainous

districts towards the hills, as if they could only there breathe the

air of freedom. In reality they are longing to meet their young ones as

soon as possible. All day long they have been away from them, but now,

according to all their experience, the little ones must appear. The

sheep run about bleating continuously, and even the intelligent goats

look longingly all around as if they wished to find out whether the

expected flock is already on the way, or at least whether it is visible

in the far distance. The bleating grows louder and louder, for every

newly-released row excites all the sheep assembled in the neighbourhood

of the aul; and the impatience of the mothers, which is increasing

every minute, finds vent in piteous, almost moaning bleatings. The

longer the suspense lasts the more restless do the mothers become.

Aimlessly they wander hither and thither, sniff at every blade of grass

on the way, but scarcely crop any, lift their heads expectantly and

joyously, let them droop again in disappointed sadness, bleat, and

bleat again. The restlessness increases almost to frenzy, the bleating

becomes a perfect bellowing.

From North Pole to Equator: Studies of Wild Life and Scenes in Many Lands · 第 37 / 47 段