FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT.
I left the Milan House at two P. M., _Paul_ being eager for the start.
Before proceeding far I dismounted and ran ahead leaving him to follow
me if he would. I ran over two or three small hills and the faithful
animal broke into a gallop and was soon by my side mutely inviting me to
remount. About four o'clock we crossed the Mississippi on the fine
Government Bridge which unites Rock Island and Davenport, and proceeded
to the Burtis House--since named the Kimball. Colonel P. A. J. Russell
was one of the first to greet me. Moore's Hall having been engaged for
my lecture, I spoke at the usual hour to a large audience, to whom
General Sanders introduced me. The local band in full uniform
volunteered their services for the occasion. The lecture was a financial
success.
The next three days were occupied in making my acquaintance with the
city. It is only fifty years ago that the first cabin was erected here
by white men. By the side of the great river a bluff rises gradually to
an elevation of about one hundred and fifty feet, and on its side and
at its base the city of Davenport is built. Over a bluff we come upon a
beautiful rolling prairie, and back as far as Duck Creek the land is
covered with fruit, vegetable and flower gardens, and presents a picture
of uncommon beauty. Views of the Mississippi are obtained from the
summit of the bluff; also of Rock Island Arsenal and Rock Island City on
the opposite shore of the river.
In 1832, General Winfield Scott made a treaty with the Indians of the
Sac tribe for the purchase by the United States of the land occupied by
them bordering on the west side of the river. The city of Davenport was
named after Colonel George Davenport, the first white settler. Antoine
Le Claire was the first to own land in Davenport. His mother was the
daughter of a Pottawatomie chief and his father a French Canadian. At
this time the Northwest territory was peopled entirely by Indians, with
here and there one of a different race fearless enough to brave the
dangers of a frontier life. Le Claire purchased the claim upon which the
city of Davenport was laid out for one hundred and fifty dollars. In
1835, he sold it to a company who commenced the building of the city.
The first ferry between Davenport and Rock Island dates from 1835. It
was a flatboat propelled by oars. At present a large steamboat is
constantly employed in transferring passengers and freight between these
cities. The river is about a mile in width at this point.
Davenport excels all the other cities of the State in the beauty and
advantages of its location. The view from the hill-tops is scarcely to
be equalled for picturesqueness by anything I saw during my journey.
The city has made great and rapid progress in its industries, wealth and
population. The education of the young is well provided for. It has a
high school built at a cost of $65,000. Griswold College--Episcopalian--
occupies a very picturesque site, overlooking the river. The Catholic
College is in a retired and quiet spot, surrounded by beautifully shaded
grounds, the buildings being elegant and commodious. The churches are
numerous, every denomination being represented. Grace Church, the
protestant Cathedral, is a fine substantial edifice, erected at a cost
of $80,000.
The Public Library on Brady street, founded by Mrs. Clarissa Cook, a
lady of wealth, is a highly prized and flourishing institution. The
Academy of Sciences embraces a most valuable and unique collection of
rare curiosities, both ancient and modern, among others, relics from the
mounds of Iowa and adjoining States, including skulls and skeletons of
pre-historic man.
The population of Davenport is now about 20,000. On account of its being
built on a declivity the drainage is perfect. It is surrounded by a most
fertile country and possesses every element for the growth of a large
city.
[Illustration: THE ROAD TO THE CHURCH.]
Recrossing the magnificent bridge spanning the river between Davenport
and the Illinois shores, I found myself on Rock Island. The Island lies
to the north of the city, the latter not being located on the Island but
on the mainland of Illinois. Since 1804 the Island proper has been the
property of the United States Government, although not occupied until
1812, on the breaking out of the war with England. The surface is very
fertile, and coal and limestone are found in large quantities. It is
about three miles long, covering nine hundred and sixty acres. An
arsenal and armory are located here. A fort was erected in 1816, and
named Fort Armstrong. It was garrisoned until May, 1836, when it was
evacuated. An ordnance depot was established by the Government in 1840.
In 1862, by Act of Congress, the Island was made a United States
Arsenal. General Thomas J. Rodman was the first appointed to the command
and held the position until his death. In 1869, Congress appropriated
$500,000 for a bridge across the Mississippi uniting the Island with the
city of Davenport. This fine structure is a railroad and wagon bridge
and affords all necessary facilities for the movement of military
stores. General Rodman was succeeded in the command of the Arsenal, in
1871, by Colonel D. W. Flagler of the Ordnance Corps, and the Island has
become, under his management, the strongest military post on the
Mississippi. Substantial quarters for the officers of the garrison and
barracks for the soldiers, have been erected, also a bridge connecting
the Island with the city of Moline.
Rock Island is connected with Rock Island City on the Illinois shore and
with Davenport on the opposite side of the river, and also with Moline
on the east side about three miles above Rock Island.
In the spring of 1828, there were only nine white men and their families
on the site now occupied by Rock Island City; the Indians of the Sac
tribe were much aggrieved by the whites taking possession of their lands
while the latter were away on their hunting expeditions. Black Hawk,
chief of the tribe, took great offence and protested strongly against
it, and as the number of white settlers increased the discontent of the
Indians grew stronger. They were urged by the commanding officer of the
Island and the Indian agent, Colonel Davenport, to move across to the
west side of the river in compliance with their treaty with the United
States Government; but Black Hawk refused to move and contended that the
Island was his property. The Fox tribe crossed the river and established
themselves there. The lands on the Illinois side were now surveyed and
sold to the settlers by the Government, but Black Hawk and the Sacs
still refused to leave. Depredations were committed by the Indians of
which the whites complained, and in 1831 Black Hawk gave notice to the
settlers to leave his lands. Some neighboring tribes it was now feared,
would unite with the Sacs in an attack on the settlers, who petitioned
the military authorities and the Governor of Illinois to protect them,
and in this way what is known as the Black Hawk War originated.
In response to the complaints of the settlers, Governor Reynolds, of
Illinois, called out sixteen hundred mounted volunteers and marched them
to the Island and General Gaines at Saint Louis proceeded immediately to
the scene of action with the Sixth United States Infantry. General
Gaines ordered all the settlers to move to the Island, and then invited
Black Hawk to talk over the situation. The military and settlers met in
the Council House, and Black Hawk, with about one hundred warriors in
their war paint, approached and entered and soon commenced shouting in
an intimidating manner. It was thought that an attempt at a general
massacre would be made. An Indian called "The Prophet" raised his voice
very high, gesticulating and speaking rapidly in an angry tone as if he
desired to excite the warriors to an attack. At length quiet was
obtained and General Gaines spoke to Black Hawk, reminding him of the
sale of the lands in dispute to the United States Government. Black Hawk
and his followers claimed that the lands had never been sold. The treaty
was then read and explained to the chief, which seemed to enrage him
greatly. Black Hawk shouted: "The white people speak from paper, but the
Indian always speaks from the heart." He further said that their lands
had not been sold, that the men who signed the treaty had no authority
to do so, or to sell their land. And even if it was sold, they were not
paid for it. The General said that the Government had assigned him and
his people land on the west side of the Mississippi. His only answer was
that he would neither leave nor fight and if the whites attempted to
drive him off, he would sit down in his wigwam and they might do what
they liked with him. General Gaines understood by this that he would
defend what he considered his rights.
Preparations for an attack were now made by the commanding officers and
Governor Reynolds, and on June 19, 1831, troops were assembled near the
mouth of Rock River. The next morning they moved upon the Indian
village. Black Hawk, however, and all his people had left in the night,
crossed the Mississippi and were camped a few miles below Rock Island.
Ten days after, the chief presented himself on the Island with
twenty-seven warriors and voluntarily signed a treaty of peace with
General Gaines and the Governor of Illinois, the latter representing
the National Government. The terms of this treaty included a pledge on
the part of Black Hawk not to return to the east side of the river or
give any more trouble to the white settlers.
In the following winter, Black Hawk refused to keep the treaty any
longer and in April, 1832, he and about five hundred of his braves
crossed the Mississippi at Burlington and moved up the east bank of the
river with his women and children, intending to drive out the settlers
and return to their old village on the Island. The Winnebagoes and other
Indians were to have assisted him in recovering the land. This news soon
reached Saint Louis and Colonel Atkinson with a body of infantry left
that city for Rock Island. Zachary Taylor, afterwards President of the
United States, was in command of a company, and Lieutenant Jefferson
Davis, afterwards President of the Confederate States, was attached to
the same regiment throughout this campaign.
About two thousand volunteers were brought forward by Governor Reynolds
of Illinois, assembling at Beardstown and marching to Yellow Banks,
fifty miles below Rock Island. They moved to the mouth of Rock River
where they were joined by Colonel Atkinson and his regulars. The
volunteers were under the command of General Whiteside, and Abraham
Lincoln, afterwards President of the United States, served under him as
captain of a company. The Indians had ascended Rock River and halted
opposite Rock Island, the women and children having been sent higher up
the river in canoes. Black Hawk now made an attempt to capture Fort
Armstrong. He crossed to the Island with his warriors in the night, but
a violent storm arising interfered with his plans that night, and in the
morning Colonel Atkinson's Infantry arrived and drove them from the
Island. They followed their women up Rock River, pursued by Colonel
Atkinson and the volunteers under General Whiteside.
Nearly the whole of Black Hawk's band was destroyed in the following
months of May, June, July and August, and Black Hawk himself was
captured and removed as a prisoner to the Island. He and his son
Seoskuk, and other chiefs, were afterwards taken to Washington and other
eastern cities. On his return from his eastern tour, Black Hawk settled
down with a remnant of his own tribe on Des Moines River, where he died
in 1838.
The Sacs and Foxes are believed to have originally come from the
vicinity of Montreal, Canada, about the year 1700, and had lived on or
near, Rock Island over one hundred and thirty years. After the close of
the "Black Hawk War" there were no hostilities with the Indians at Rock
Island.
During the late Civil War the Island was converted into a military
prison and upwards of 12,000 Confederate prisoners were confined here.
About 2,000 died and were buried on the Island.
A pleasant day may be passed in wandering over the Island, which is now
an important United States Arsenal for the Mississippi Valley.
Rock Island City is situated on the mainland on the Illinois bank of the
river. East of the city, stretching away to Rock River, are some
picturesque bluffs and scenery of great beauty. On the sides of the
hills are many comfortable residences of well-to-do citizens. The city
is about midway between Saint Louis and Saint Paul, and immediately
opposite the larger city of Davenport, Iowa. The iron bridge owned by
the United States Government and connecting the two cities is open to
the public free of toll.
The water power produced by the rapids has largely contributed to the
growth of Rock Island City, and also of Moline--a city of
factories--within an easy walk of its neighbor. In the latter I found
many establishments for the manufacture of plows, cultivators and other
farming appliances; also wagons and carriages, together with foundries
and machine shops.
Rock Island City has a commerce and trade second to no city of its size
in the Union. The centre of a system of railroads, the city has a busy
aspect at all times. The population at the time of my visit was about
16,000.
Three miles from Rock Island City, inland, is a resort frequented by the
residents of both sides of the river. Its traditions and associations
are romantic. It is known as _Black Hawk's Watch Tower_. The _tower_
consists of a rock and is the summit of the highest hill, overlooking
Rock River and affording an extensive picture of the surrounding
country. The rock derives its name from its having been used by Black
Hawk as a point from which he could survey his lands for many miles.
Tradition says it was selected by the chief's father and overlooked the
tribe's first village on the banks of Rock River. Black Hawk gave the
following account of the place to Antoine Le Claire in 1833: "The tower
was my favorite resort and was often visited by me alone, where I could
sit and smoke my pipe and look with wonder and pleasure at the grand
scenes that were presented, even across the mighty river. On one
occasion a Frenchman who had been resting in our village, brought his
violin with him to the Tower to play and dance for the amusement of my
people who had assembled there, and while dancing with his back to the
cliff, accidentally fell over it and was killed. The Indians say that at
the same time of the year soft strains of the violin can be heard near
the spot." He further relates that in the year 1827, a young Sioux
Indian, who was lost in a violent snow-storm, found his way into a camp
of the Sacs, and while there, fell in love with a beautiful maiden. On
leaving for his own country he promised to return in the summer and
claim his bride. He did so, secreting himself in the woods until he met
the object of his affection. A heavy thunder-storm was coming on at the
time, and the lovers took shelter under a rocky cliff on the south side
of the Tower. Soon a loud peal of thunder was heard; the cliff was rent
into a thousand pieces and they were buried beneath them. "This, their
unexpected tomb," says Black Hawk, "still remains undisturbed."
In the spring, summer and autumn many hundreds of visitors climb to the
Tower, especially on Sunday and holidays, and while breathing the pure,
healthful atmosphere, enjoy delightful views of the surrounding country
and the majestic river at their feet. The Davenport family own the
property, which, however, is accessible to all visitors.