CHICAGO TO DAVENPORT.
One hundred and Twenty-sixth Day.
_Jewell House_,
MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA,
_September 14, 1876_.
In the morning I settled with Darby, and in the afternoon he returned to
Decatur.
At nightfall here, the excitement which had been rising during the day
reached its climax when the Michigan City Democrats repaired to the New
Albany depot to hold a mass meeting.
Notwithstanding my own sentiments, I went too, and was highly
entertained by the speakers, among whom were Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees of
Terre Haute, Hon. James Williams--better known in the Hoosier State as
"Blue Jeans" Williams--and Hon. Morgan Weir, of La Porte.
When Voorhees arrived his enthusiastic partisans had him driven in state
from the station in a carriage drawn by four white horses. He was no
doubt the lion of the occasion and his energetic language drew forth
frequent applause. The strong features, straight brows and broad
forehead of this politician would proclaim him a man of force anywhere.
A large crowd had gathered at the appointed place and business began at
eight o'clock. As time passed the excitement grew more intense, and
towards the close of the meeting an amusing incident was noted, when the
honorable senator took issue with his opponents. I then became aware
that there were others present of a different faith, besides myself, for
no sooner were Voorhees' anti-Republican sentiments voiced than a
vehement champion of the Republican party jumped to his feet denouncing
as false the statements made, winding up his remarks by thumping his
cane on the benches and saying that all that had been spoken was a "pack
of lies!" Off in another part of the building an excited Irishman also
jumped up crying out: "Mr. Voorhees is a perfect gintleman, sor!" A
compliment which the Hoosiers quickly took up and the depot rang with:
"Mr. Voorhees is a perfect gintleman, sor!"
My co-partisan was silenced, if not convinced. The other speakers scored
several points for their cause and the meeting closed with three cheers
and a tiger for the Democratic candidates.
One hundred and Twenty-seventh Day.
_Jewell House_,
MICHIGAN CITY, INDIANA,
_September Fifteenth_.
Being detained on account of the condition of my horse, and as the
weather now was most delightful, I made the best of the situation by
looking about the place, since I had seen comparatively little of it up
to this time. Possibly no city or town along my route labors under
greater disadvantages from a geographical or commercial point of view
than this "city of sand," situated as it is at the extreme southern end
of Lake Michigan, with the water splashing against it on one side and
the wind and sand storms beating against it on the other.
However, it has overcome these obstacles to a certain degree and is
hardly lacking in enterprise, as the mass meeting of the preceding day
testified. Here, perhaps, more than at any other of the towns and cities
lying around Lake Michigan, one is impressed with the resistless force
of this splendid inland sea, and so unique an impression did the place
make upon me that my detention did not become irksome, although all the
fascinations of the Great West lay beyond.
One hundred and Twenty-eighth Day.
_Hobart House_,
HOBART, INDIANA,
_September Sixteenth_.
Did not get on the road until nearly eleven o'clock. The rest and
treatment which _Paul_ had received at Michigan City put him in
excellent spirits for a rapid journey and he stepped off nimbly when I
gave him the reins in front of the Jewell House. I was greatly
encouraged by the condition of my horse and now that the word was once
more "onward," all the fascination of the ride came back.
Although the scenes I passed through were very like others, there being
nothing of marked interest to the traveller in this section of Indiana,
I still found much pleasure in looking over the farms as I passed them
and noticing the variety of methods and effects.
A good stimulating breeze came inland from the lake and by noon it had
added zest to my appetite. I stopped for dinner at the village of
Chesterton and then pushed on to this place which was reached in the
evening by seven o'clock--twenty-eight miles having been covered during
the day.
The only accommodation to be found was nothing more nor less than a
beer-saloon with sleeping rooms attached, a characteristic, I regret to
say, which I observed in many of the small towns through this section of
the country. As immediate environment has an influence in making
impressions, my opinion of this halting-place on the borders of
"Hoosierdom" was not the most exalted.
One hundred and Twenty-ninth Day.
_Rohmer House_,
RICHTON, ILLINOIS,
_September Seventeenth_.
Owing to the late hour of my arrival at Hobart the previous evening I
was unable to observe my usual practice of looking through the place and
making a note of its striking points in my journal, and for this reason
I was not in the saddle until ten o'clock A. M., although the time was
spent more in seeing than in chronicling what was seen.
_Paul_ was still in the happiest of spirits and I rode away from Hobart
at a gallop, stirring the dust of this sleepy little village as it had
possibly not been stirred for many moons. The cheerful fact was made
clear to me before leaving that I was as far from Joliet at Hobart as I
had supposed myself to be at Michigan City.
In the course of the day, in which twenty-eight miles were again
covered, Centralia, Sherryville and Dyer were passed, these towns being
on Grand Prairie, across which I rode from morning till night. At four
o'clock I reached the boundary between Indiana and Illinois, realizing
that at this point six States had added their rich scenes and splendid
enterprises to my memory.
As I was moving along on the prairie just before dark my ears caught the
sound of a peculiar barking and soon a pack of what I supposed to be
dogs were following me. I noticed that _Paul's_ manner changed and he
appeared disturbed, but attributed this to the barking and the
persistent keeping at his heels of the little animals. To a man whom I
met later, I explained that I had been followed for some hours by a pack
of dogs, when he promptly informed me that they were doubtless prairie
wolves. Of course to an Easterner this news gave an added interest to
Grand Prairie.
[Illustration: COUNTRY ROAD IN ILLINOIS.]
One hundred and Thirtieth Day.
_Robertson House_,
JOLIET, ILLINOIS.
_September Eighteenth_.
Had _Paul_ brought out at eight o'clock. As soon as he was saddled at
Richton the man who attended to him threw the rein over the neck of the
horse, and a moment later he made his appearance unaccompanied in
front of the Rohmer House. This being an undoubted sign of his anxiety
to be off, I mounted at once and we were soon lessening the distance to
Joliet, our evening destination, twenty-one miles away.
Was all day again on Grand Prairie, which may give some idea of this the
greatest and truly the grandest prairie yet passed on my route. Its
proximity to Chicago is doubtless one of the chief causes of the high
winds for which the "Windy City" is noted; and if Chicago could, she
would gladly change her inconvenient environment.
At Lenox I halted for dinner, reaching Joliet at four P. M. In riding
through Jefferson street, I was met by Babcock who seemed much surprised
at my early arrival. Notwithstanding the fact that "Rip Van Winkle" was
being played at the opera house, Robert McWade, a young actor of some
prominence, taking the leading _role_, I found a fair audience awaiting
me at Werner Hall in the evening, which proved that interest was still
felt in the Custer Monument movement.
One hundred and Thirty-first Day.
_Hopkins House_,
MORRIS, ILLINOIS,
_September Nineteenth_.
On calling for my bill at the Robertson House, Joliet, in the morning,
Mr. Conklin the proprietor, declined to accept any pay for my
accommodations, and when I insisted, said he wished the pleasure of
making me his guest during my stay. I did not get a very early start,
as a family by the name of Horner, upon hearing of my arrival, called at
the hotel and at their solicitation I made them a short visit. They knew
of my journey and interest in the Custer Association, and being
patriotic made this their reason for wishing to meet me. Their
friendliness was but another proof of the hospitality of the people of
Joliet, among whom I had come the day before as a comparative stranger,
but whom I left with the kindliest of feeling.
Before leaving, Mr. Conklin suggested that I ride along the tow-path of
the Michigan Canal from Joliet to Chanahon, and I followed his advice,
having dinner at the latter place. It happened that the innkeeper was
well supplied with sweet cider and I helped him to dispose of it by
drinking the contents of six well-filled glasses. Beyond Chanahon, on
the Illinois River, I borrowed a hook and line of a farmer who was
fishing and caught twenty-three perch in half an hour.
At four o'clock I reached the summit of a hill on the border of a
prairie from which I could look off for fifteen or twenty miles over a
fertile country through which two silver streams wound to unite just
below--the Kankakee here paying tribute to the Illinois. The atmosphere
was perfect--clear and pure; the trees were tinged red and yellow with
the first frosts, and to all this was added the glory of the sunset
which I lingered to admire before turning away from so charming a scene.
Such a view leaves a deep impress on the memory, and stirs recollections
of more youthful days. Emotions like these have a purifying effect upon
all men.
[Illustration: AN ILLINOIS HOME.]
One hundred and Thirty-second Day.
_Clifton House_,
OTTAWA, ILLINOIS,
_September Twentieth_.
I rode out of Morris in the morning just as the public school bells were
ringing nine o'clock. My journey now lay along the north bank of the
Illinois River, and took me through some of the finest cornfields I had
ever seen. Acres and acres, miles and miles stretched in all directions
as far as the eye could reach whenever the elevation of the road was
high enough above this waving sea of grain to permit of my looking
about. Otherwise I passed through it completely shut in, except as I
could look ahead and behind and see the avenue of giant stalks. My
horse, sixteen hands high, did not elevate me sufficiently to enable me,
sitting in the saddle, to look over the corn tops, and they still
towered above my head like so many small trees.
Those who are privileged to see this agricultural wonder must, however,
associate it with that other source of pride among Illinois farmers--the
"hogs"--for most of this splendid harvest is fed to these animals and
they, well-fattened thereby, are driven to market. Thus the enterprising
farmer is saved the expense of hauling his corn to Chicago or other
points, as the pork, into which it has been transformed, is able to
carry itself.
All along my route across the "Sucker State," I encountered, day after
day, white hogs and black hogs, hogs of every grade and shade, my horse
often stepping aside in equine dignity to allow a drowsy or pugnacious
porker to pass.
As I had determined to reach Ottawa by nightfall, I was compelled to
ride nearly all day in a drizzling rain which at noon was followed by a
heavy thunder shower. This I took advantage of by stopping at Seneca for
dinner, and then pushed forward. Was forced to halt again at three
o'clock on account of rain, and being near a farm house was invited to
"come in" while the good people took care of my horse.
Overtook a troop of boys on horseback near Ottawa and had their lively
company into town. There I met an old acquaintance--Mr. Kean--who was
among the first to greet me. My time was passed pleasantly here, and I
would do injustice to the proprietor of the Clifton were I to forget the
many courtesies politely extended to me while his guest.
One hundred and Thirty-third Day.
_Harrison House_,
LA SALLE, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-first_.
Left the Clifton House, Ottawa, at two P. M. The weather was still in an
unsettled condition which obliged me to make my way as best I could
between showers in order to keep my lecture appointment at La Salle. I
considered it fortunate that my route was now along the west bank of the
Illinois, a stream in which I had long been interested owing to the
important part it played as a convenient and favorite water course for
the early explorers of the Valley of the Mississippi. Between its
verdant banks, Joliet, Marquette, La Salle and others glided on their
way to the great stream. How the lover of history and adventure thrills
at the accounts of La Salle's Fort Creve-Coeur, and his colony scattered
over this same region of country!
Probably none of these historic men paid a more flattering tribute to
"La Riviere des Illinois" than Hennepin, the priest, who, when passing
down it to the Mississippi was not too much oppressed with anxiety to
admire its charms. What a different appearance its shores presented in
1680 to that of 1876! In place of the forest, waving corn fields under
high cultivation attracted my attention on every hand, and in contrast
to the wilderness inhabited by the savages whom Hennepin encountered, I
saw an emigrant train peaceably moving along on its way from the East to
the promising country west of the Mississippi.
One hundred and Thirty-fourth Day.
_Harrison House_,
LA SALLE, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-second_.
The equinoctial storms were now at their height and as my lecture at
Davenport was not to be delivered for some days, I decided to spend a
day or two in this pleasant little city, until "Old Sol" had "crossed
the line."
I found that this is the centre of important coal and lead mines, which
I should have visited and examined, superficially at least, had not the
inclement weather prevented. Through the courtesy of Colonel Stephens,
editor of the _La Salle County Press_ and a colonel in the volunteer
service during the late war, I was introduced to many of the citizens
who told me much of the history and enterprises of their town.
One hundred and Thirty-fifth Day.
_Harrison House_,
LA SALLE, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-third_.
Rode down to Peru in the morning accompanied by Colonel Stephens, who
wished to show me the pride of the county--the big plow works, which
constitute the leading industry of the place. Was introduced to members
of the firm and shown through the various departments of the
establishment, which were certainly imposing in the way of machinery and
in the evidence of mechanical skill. We returned to La Salle at four
o'clock and my hospitable comrade proposed that we take a stroll through
the city, to which I quickly consented.
Colonel Stephens introduced me to my audience in the evening, and made
pleasant reference to the brave and chivalrous Custer. My entertainment
here was most gratifying and I was warmly assured of the good will of
the people through the local press.
I have proved that everywhere in this country the spirit of hospitality
reigns. Whether in large cities or small towns, the utmost cordiality
prevails, and the stranger can always rely upon a hearty welcome.
One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day.
_Farm House_,
NEAR HOLLOWAYVILLE, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-fourth_.
Upon leaving La Salle at three o'clock in the afternoon, I was told that
I would have no difficulty in securing accommodations for myself and
horse at Hollowayville, so, with the assurance of finding everything
lovely here, I jogged along over the intervening twelve miles at my
leisure.
My feelings can better be imagined than described when, on my arrival at
the little hamlet, I was looked upon with suspicion. The simple-minded
inhabitants hinted that I might possibly be a "highwayman" or a "horse
thief," or, for aught they knew, one of the James or Younger brothers.
These desperadoes were then exciting the people on both sides of the
Mississippi and my equipment, set off with high top boots and gauntlets,
with the peculiar trappings of my horse, only made matters worse.
Finding it impossible to secure lodging in the village, I rode on into
the country, stopping at a farm house which looked inviting. I entered
the front yard slowly and with dignity to dispel the horse thief
suspicion. The farmer's daughter, a young girl of seventeen or eighteen
years, and a few farm hands, stood about, of whom I asked if the master
of the place was at home. The girl took me within, and Monsieur and
Madame Croisant received me. They were both in bed, ill, but looking
quite comfortable with their heads pointing in different directions.
They carried on a lively conversation in French, the daughter
interpreting, and in conclusion, after assuring them that I was a
harmless person, very tired and hungry, they decided, if the clergyman
of the place thought it safe, that I might stay with them. The dominie
was called, looked me over a few minutes, cross-questioned me, and
approved.
My room that night was unique in more ways than one and would have been
punishment enough for Jesse James himself.
When I retired I detected a strong odor in the room and found it due to
a collection of _sabots_, or wooden shoes, seemingly centuries old,
which were arranged in a row under my bed. What to do with them was a
question, as, under the circumstances, I did not think it best to tamper
with the feelings of my host and hostess. As my room was on the ground
floor, I decided to place the _sabots_ carefully outside under the
window and take them in in the morning before the family was up.
Unfortunately it rained and I overslept, so the shoes were discovered
full of water before I appeared. However, nothing was said and I ate my
breakfast in peace, the good people probably thanking their stars that
they and their house had not been robbed.
Before leaving in the morning the _La Salle County Press_ was handed me
by Miss Croisant, in which I read the following flattering notice of my
lecture in that city and which in some measure compensated for my
unpleasant reception at Hollowayville:
"We have not often met with a more agreeable and pleasant gentleman
than Captain Willard Glazier, who entertained a very respectable
number of our citizens at Opera Hall on Saturday evening by
delivering a lecture on 'Echoes from the Revolution.' The captain
has a fine voice and his manner of delivery is decidedly
interesting, while his language is eloquent and fascinating. His
description of the battles of the Revolution, and the heroes who
took part in them, from the engagement on the little green at
Lexington down to the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, was grand
indeed, and was received with frequent and enthusiastic applause. In
conclusion he referred in an eloquent and touching manner to the
'Boys in Blue,' who took part in the late war for the Union, and all
retired from the hall feeling that the evening had been spent in an
agreeable and profitable manner.
"Captain Glazier served under Generals Kilpatrick and Custer during
the late war, since which time he has devoted much labor to writing
and is now making the attempt to cross the continent from Boston to
San Francisco on horseback, for the purpose of collecting material
for another work. He left Boston the early part of May, and will
endeavor to reach the Sacramento Valley before the fall of the deep
snow. His horse, _Paul Revere_, is a magnificent animal, black as a
raven, with the exception of four white feet. He was bred in
Kentucky of Black Hawk stock, has turned a mile in 2.33, but owing
to his inclination to run away on certain occasions, was not
considered a safe horse for the track. The captain, however, has
broken him to the saddle, and also convinced him that running away
is foolish business; consequently, he and the captain have become
fast friends, and with _Paul_ for his only companion, the gallant
cavalryman proposes to cross the continent. Success attend him!"
One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day.
_Ellsworth House_,
WYANET, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-fifth_.
The equinoctial storms which had been raging since I left Ottawa, were,
for a few days at least, at an end, and a bright autumn sun greeted me
every morning as I rode onward. Rich cornfields stretched away on either
side of the road, their monotony broken here and there by fine apple and
peach orchards just coming into their glory. Another characteristic of
Illinois--fine stock farms--were also noticeable, and thus for another
stage of fourteen miles, surrounded by evidences of fertility and
thrift, I passed on, reaching Wyanet early in the evening.
One Hundred and Thirty-eighth Day.
_Private House_,
ANNAWAN, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-sixth_.
Before leaving Wyanet I had _Paul's_ bridle--a Mexican make--repaired,
and when it was again used he chafed at the restraint of the curb. Not
for long though, for we were soon on the prairie, he evidently enjoying
it as much as his master. The roads were rougher than usual and there
was a change here in the soil, its black clayey loam being very rich and
productive, making Henry County noted for its fine farms. Eighteen miles
of grass-covered prairie, diversified by cultivated fields, brought me
to Annawan, where I was the guest of O. T. Buttermore, and while at this
place I received the following gratifying communication from Colonel
Stephens of La Salle--further proof of the good will to "the stranger
within their gates," of the citizens of La Salle:
_September 25, 1876_.
TO CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER:
I take pleasure in expressing to you on behalf of many of our
citizens, the gratification afforded our people who listened to your
instructive and entertaining lecture given at Opera Hall on Saturday
evening last. While in conversation with several of our prominent
citizens, among them, W. A. Work, superintendent of our public
schools; A. J. O'Connor, clerk of the city court; W. T. Mason, Esq.,
and others, all of whom were present and heard your lecture, I was
requested to write you and tender their hearty thanks for the
entertainment and their good wishes for your success in your ride
across the continent. Should you ever again visit our city you can
rest assured you will be most cordially received.
Very truly yours,
R. C. STEPHENS,
_Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers_.
[Illustration: A HAPPY FAMILY.]
One Hundred and Thirty-ninth Day.
_Farm House_,
BETWEEN GENESSEO AND MOLINE, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-seventh_.
Started away from Annawan at nine o'clock but after riding about a mile
and a half I discovered that I had left my journal and was obliged to
return for it. All day I was on a seemingly endless prairie, dotted here
and there with cornfields and apple orchards. Illinois takes the lead in
stock-raising, and the horses and cattle seen in this day's ride were
fully up to the best standard.
Had dinner at the house of a coal miner, whom I found very intelligent,
and was well entertained by a talk on mining industries in Illinois from
a practical point of view. This is a bituminous coal region and there
are mines in operation all over the State.
My host, Pullman by name, had recently returned from the Pacific coast
and to my eager inquiries was able to tell me much about the country
between Omaha and Sacramento.
At night, after having made twenty-one miles, I reached this place and
was domiciled with the family of Mrs. Charlotte Bills, who came formerly
from Jefferson County, New York. As my native county of Saint Lawrence
adjoins Jefferson, the Bills and I had a lively talk on "Old York
State," and I became much interested in the work of this enterprising
woman and her family.
Mrs. Bills has succeeded in a direction which has not generally been
attempted by women; this is the management of a farm. She does a good
business and supports herself and children by raising corn for which, in
this stock-raising locality, she finds a ready market. The corn is
generally bought for hog feed and as these animals quickly fatten upon
it, it is profitable. The practical rather than the romantic has place
with these Western people who are striving for a livelihood. Each day
gave me new ideas of people and their occupations--but this woman-farmer
was something unusual and certainly very praiseworthy.
One Hundred and Fortieth Day.
_Milan House_,
MILAN, ILLINOIS,
_September Twenty-eighth_.
Mounted my horse at eight o'clock and by easy riding reached a farm
house in Rock River Bottom, where I passed the noon hour. After dinner I
made good time as the weather had changed and become cold, reminding me
of the necessity of hurrying on if I would avoid the deep snows which
the traveller is sure to encounter in the elevated regions farther west
and it was every day more evident that I could not well afford to allow
my lecture appointments to conflict with the dispatch of my journey.
[Illustration: AN ILLINOIS VILLAGE.]
On starting from Genesseo in the morning it was my intention to make
Moline the evening objective, but I was compelled to halt at
Milan--twenty miles from the morning starting-point--where the bridge
was torn up that crossed Rock River at this point. Being delayed, I sent
a note forward to Davenport informing Babcock that I would cross the
Mississippi the following afternoon at three o'clock; in the meantime
waiting, with what patience I could muster, for the bridge work to
proceed.