CHAPTER II

STRUCTURE OF FUR

Fur is made up of two main components, the hair and the skin, and each of

these has a very complex structure.

In the living animal the skin serves as a protective covering, and also

constitutes an organ of secretion and of feeling; consequently it is

of a highly complicated nature. The skin of all fur-bearing animals is

essentially the same in structure, although varying considerably as to

thickness and texture. It consists of two principal layers, which are

entirely different in structure and purpose, and correspondingly different

in both physical and chemical respects: the epidermis, epithelium or

cuticle, which is the outer layer, and the dermis or corium, which is the

true skin. (Fig. 1A).

The epidermis is very thin as compared with the corium. Its outer layer

consists of a tissue of cells, somewhat analogous to the horny matter

of nails and hair. The inner surface, called the ‘rete malpighi,’ rests

on the true skin, and is a soft, mucous layer of cells. These cells are

spherical when first formed, but as they approach the surface become

flattened, and dry up, forming the horny outer layer of the epidermis,

which is constantly throwing off the dead scales, and which is constantly

being renewed from below. It is from this inner layer of the epidermis

that the hair, the sweat-glands, and the fat-glands are developed.

The corium, or true skin, consists essentially of white, interlacing

fibres of the kind known as connective tissue. These fibres are themselves

made up of extremely fine smaller fibres, or fibrils, cemented together by

a substance of a somewhat different nature from the fibres, the coriin.

Towards the center of the skin, the texture of the interweaving fibres

is looser, becoming much more compact at the surface just beneath the

inner layer of the epidermis. This part of the corium is so exceedingly

close that the fibrils are scarcely recognizable. It is in this part that

the fat-glands are situated, while the hair-roots and sweat-glands pass

through it into the looser texture of the corium. The surface next to the

flesh is also closer in structure than the middle portions of the skin,

and has somewhat of a membranous character due to the fibres running

almost parallel to the surface of the skin. The skin is joined to the body

proper by a network of connective tissue, frequently full of fat-cells.

This layer, together with portions of the flesh which may adhere to it,

is removed by the process called ‘fleshing,’ and this side of the skin

is known as the flesh side. The corium also contains a small proportion

of yellow fibres, known as ‘elastic fibres,’ which differ physically and

chemically from the rest of the skin substance.

During the course of the development of the embryo animal, a small group

of cells forms like a bulb on the inner side of the epidermis, above a

knot of very fine blood-vessels in the corium. This group of cells grows

downward into the true skin, and the hair-root which is formed within it,

surrounds the capillary blood-vessels, drawing nourishment from them, and

thus forming the papilla. (Fig. 1A). Smaller projections also form on the

bulb, and the fat-glands are gradually developed. The sweat-glands are

formed in a manner similar to the development of hair.

The individual hair fibre is quite as complicated in structure as the

skin, and is made up of four distinct parts. (Fig. 1B).[2]

[2] Descriptions and figures taken from “Mammal Fur Under the

Microscope,” by Dr. L. A. Hausman, in _Natural History_,

Sept.–Oct., 1920.

The medulla, or pith, is the innermost portion of the hair, and is

composed of many shrunken cells, often connected by a network which may

fill the medullary column partially or wholly.

Surrounding the medulla is the cortex, which is made up of spindle-shaped

cells fused into a horny, almost homogeneous, transparent mass, and

forming a large proportion of the hair shaft.

In the majority of the fur-bearing animals, there is distributed within

and among the cells of the cortex a pigment in the form of granules or

minute particles, arranged in the different hairs in fairly definite and

characteristic patterns. It is to these pigment granules that the color

of the hair is due primarily. In some cases the coloring matter of the

shaft is uniformly diffused and not granular.

[Illustration: FIG. 1

_A._ STRUCTURE OF SKIN.

_B._ STRUCTURE OF HAIR.]

The outermost coat of the hair, or cuticle, is composed of thin,

colorless, transparent scales of varying forms and sizes, and arranged

in series like the shingles of a roof. It is on these scales that the

lustre or gloss of the hair depends. Since lustre is due to the unbroken

reflection of light from the surface of the hair, the smoother the

surface, the glossier it will appear. When the scales of the cuticle are

irregular and uneven, the surface of the hair will not be uniform and

smooth, and the light reflected from it will be broken and scattered, and

consequently the hair will not possess a high degree of lustre. As a rule,

the stiff, straight hairs have the most regular and uniform arrangement

of the scales of the cuticle, and hence are the smoothest and glossiest.

Fur hairs are in general either circular or elliptical in cross-section,

those which are circular being straight or only slightly curved, while

those which are elliptical in cross-section are curly like the hair of

the various kinds of lambs.

Most fur-bearing animals have two different kinds of hair on their bodies.

Nearest to the skin is a coat of short, thick, soft and fine hair, usually

of a woolly nature, and called the under-hair, under-wool, or fur-hair.

Overlying the fur-hair is a protective layer of hair, longer and coarser

than the under-hair, and usually straight, hard, smooth and glossy. This

is called the top-hair, over-hair, guard-hair or protective hair. In some

furs, the top-hair constitutes one of the chief elements of their beauty,

while in others, the top-hairs are removed, so as better to display the

attractive features of the under-hair. The roots of the top-hair are

generally deeper in the skin than those of the fur-hair, and in some

instances where the top-hair is removed, as in the seal, the roots are

destroyed by the action of chemicals applied to the skin side, the roots

of the fur-hair being wholly unaffected by this treatment.

The fur-hair and the top-hair in the same animal have different

medullary and cuticular structures, and these characteristics may be

used to distinguish the two kinds of hair. Figs. 2A and B illustrate

these differences. In each case, the two large hairs on the left of the

illustration are the guard-hairs, showing respectively the cuticular

scales and the medulla. On the right are the two fur-hairs showing the

scales and the medulla.

Although composed of many different kinds of tissues, and varying so

greatly in physical structure, both the skin and the hair belong to

the same class of chemical compounds, namely the proteins. These are

highly complex substances, forming the basis of all animal and vegetable

tissues. There are many different kinds of proteins, varying somewhat in

their constitutions, but all show, on analysis the following approximate

composition of chemical elements:

Carbon 50–55%

Hydrogen 6.5–7.3%

Nitrogen 15–17.6%

Oxygen 19–24%

Sulphur 0.3–5%

The principal kinds of proteins found in the various fur structures

are albumins, keratin, collagen, and mucines. Albumins, of which the

white of egg is the most familiar variety, occurs to some extent in the

corium as serum in the blood-vessels, and also as the liquid filling

the connective tissues, known as the lymph. They are soluble in cold

water, but when heated to about 70° C., they coagulate and are then

insoluble. Concentrated mineral acids and strong alcohol will also effect

coagulation.

[Illustration: FIG. 2

_A._ HAIR OF EUROPEAN BEAVER.

_a._ TOP-HAIR. _b._ UNDER-HAIR.

_B._ HAIR OF SKUNK.

_a._ TOP-HAIR. _b._ UNDER-HAIR.]

Keratin is the chief substance of which all horny parts of the animal

body are composed, such as the hair, nails or hoofs. It is the principal

constituent of the hair, the epidermis, and the walls of the cells of

the inner layer of the epidermis, or the ‘rete malpighi.’ Keratin is

particularly rich in sulphur, and is quite insoluble in cold water.

Caustic alkalies attack keratin-containing parts.

The collagens are the principal proteins of the skin, forming largely the

substance of the connective tissue fibres, and consequently the framework

of the skin. They are insoluble in cold water, dilute acids and salt

solutions, and are only very slowly attacked by dilute alkalies. Dilute

acids and alkalies cause collagen to swell; concentrated acids, vegetable

tanning materials, basic chrome or iron salts cause it to shrink. By

boiling with water, dilute acids or dilute alkalies, collagen is split up

into gelatin or glutin.

The mucines of the skin, intercellular material or coriin, are soluble

in dilute acids, in dilute solutions of alkalies and of alkaline earths

such as lime, and in 10% salt solution, but insoluble in water, and in

salt solutions of greater or less concentration than 10%. On drying the

skin, the mucines cement the connective tissue fibres, causing the skin to

become stiff, horny and translucent. The mucines are also constituents of

the cells of the ‘rete malpighi.’ The solubility of the mucines in dilute

solutions of alkalies and of alkaline earths causes the epidermis to be

loosened from the corium, when the skins are treated with such solutions

for some time.

When raw skins are boiled with water, the greater part goes into solution,

the residue consisting chiefly of the keratins of the hair and epidermis

cells. On cooling, the solution solidifies to a jelly of gelatine. It

combines with both acids and alkalies. A property of the skin which is

of importance in the tanning operation of fur-dressing, and a quality

which also characterizes gelatine, is the capacity to absorb liquids

and swell up, without changing chemically. Raw pelts swell up easily

in pure cold water, but much more easily in solutions of dilute acids

or dilute alkalies, only a little of the skin material being dissolved.

In stronger solutions, the skins swell up less, while more of the skin

substance dissolves, and by prolonged action of strong acids or alkalies,

an almost complete solution of the skin is obtained, without, however,

any of the material decomposing. With very strong alkalies or acids,

the skin substance is broken up into simpler compounds, such as various

amines and ammonia. The swelling action of acids or of alkalies increases

with the increase in concentration of the acid or alkali, but only up

to a certain point, after which further increase in the strength of the

acid or alkaline solution causes a reduction in the swelling, and even

produces shrinkage. In the presence of neutral salts, like common table

salt, sodium chloride, the swelling action of acids, is reduced, but the

action of alkalies remains practically unaffected.

When treated with the various chemicals, fur hair acts in a manner quite

similar to wool. If it be remembered that certain classes of furs are

derived from animals of the sheep family, such furs as Persian lamb,

krimmer, etc., it becomes apparent why chemicals should affect furs in

nearly the same way as wool. The great majority of furs differ from those

of the sheep family, in possessing much greater resistance to the action

of chemicals. The range is a wide one however, and no exact criterion can

be adopted. As a general rule, the reactions are most marked with fur-hair

of a woolly nature, so this may be taken as a standard of reference.

Acids have relatively little action on the hair, when applied in dilute

solutions. The scales of the cuticle or epithelium are somewhat opened,

the fibre becoming slightly roughened thereby. Even at high temperatures,

the hair is quite resistant to the action of dilute acids. Concentrated

acids destroy the hair with the liberation or formation of ammonia,

hydrogen sulphide, and various amino acids. When treated with dilute

acids, the hair, especially if it is of a very woolly nature, retains

considerable quantities of acid, this phenomenon being probably due to

the fixation of the acid by the basic groups in the hair. Nitric acid

produces a yellow coloration when applied in dilute solution for a short

time. Sulphurous acid, the acid formed by the burning of sulphur, has a

bleaching action on the hair.

Alkalies attack the hair, even in dilute solutions, and by longer action

complete decomposition sets in, with formation of ammonia and amino-acids.

Ammonium carbonate, soap, and borax are practically harmless in their

effect on the hair. Sodium and potassium carbonates roughen the hair on

prolonged action, even in dilute solutions. Calcium hydroxide on continued

action removes sulphur from the hair, causing it to become brittle.

Salts of alkalies and alkaline earths do not affect the hair at all.

Salts of the heavy metals on the other hand, are absorbed in appreciable

quantities. From a dilute solution of alum, aluminum hydroxide is absorbed

by the hair, the potassium sulphate remaining in solution. Similarly with

copper, iron, and chromium salts, the metal oxides are fixed by the fibre.

Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing · 第 2 / 17 章