“She soon asked me if I was related to the celebrated Mr. Adams

who wrote the book upon Government. I said I had the happiness

of being his son. She said she had read it and admired it very

much, that her father. Mr. Necker, had always expressed a very

high opinion of it. She next commenced upon Politics and asked

how it was possible that America should have declared war against

England. In accounting for this phenomenon I was obliged to recur

to a multitude of facts not as strongly stamped with British

generosity or British Morality as might be expected from the

character which she and the Embassador had just been assigning

that nation. The orders in council and the press gang afforded but

a sorry commentary upon the Chauvinesque defence of the liberties

of mankind and no very instructive lessons of morality. She had

nothing to say in their defence but she thought that the knights

errant of the Human race were to be allowed special indulgence and

in consideration of their cause were not to be held by the ordinary

obligations of war and peace.

“There was no probability that any arguments of mine could make

any impression upon opinions thus toned. She listened, however,

with as much complacency as could be expected to what I said and

finally asked me why I had not been to see her before. I answered

that her high reputation was calculated to inspire respect no less

than curiosity and that however desirous I had been of becoming

personally acquainted with her I had thought I could not without

indiscretion intrude myself upon her Society. The reason appeared

to please her. She said she was to leave this city the next day at

noon. She was going to Stockholm to pass the winter and then to

England. She wished to have another conversation with me before she

went and asked me to call on her the next morning.

“I readily accepted the invitation and we discussed politics again

two or three hours. I found her better conversant with Rhetoric

than with Logic. She had much to say about social order, much

about universal monarchy, much about the preservation of religion

in which she gave me to understand she did not herself believe,

and much about the ambition and supremacy of Buonaparte upon which

she soon discovered there was no difference of sentiment between

us. But why did not America join in the holy cause against the

tyrant? First because America had no means of making war against

him, she could neither attack him by sea or land. 2d because it was

a fundamental maxim of American policy never to intermeddle with

the political affairs of Europe. Thirdly because it was altogether

unnecessary. He had enemies enough upon his hands already. What!

Did not I dread his universal monarchy? Not in the least. I saw

indeed a very formidable mass of force arrayed under him, but I saw

a mass of force at least as formidable arrayed against him. Europe

contained about 100 millions of human beings. He was wielding the

means of 15 millions and the means of 85 millions were wielding

against him. It was an awful spectacle to behold the shock, but I

did not believe nor ever had believed that he would ever be able to

subjugate even the continent of Europe. If there had ever been any

real danger of such an event it was passed.

“She herself saw that there was every prospect of his being very

shortly driven out of Spain. And I was equally convinced he would

be driven out of Russia. It was the very day of the battle of

Borodino. ‘J’en accepte l’augure,’ she said. ‘Everything that

you say of him is very just. But I have particular reason for

resentment against him. I have been persecuted by him in the most

shameful manner. I was neither suffered to live anywhere nor to

go where I would have gone, all for no other reason but because I

would not eulogize him in my writings.’ As to our war with England

I told her that I deeply lamented it and yet cherished the hope

that it would not last long. That England had forced it upon

us by measures as outrageous upon the rights of an independent

nation as tyrannical as oppressive as any that could be charged

upon Buonaparte. Her pretences were retaliation and necessity.

Retaliation upon America for the wrongs of France and necessity

for man Stealing. We asked of England nothing but our indisputable

rights, but we allowed no special prerogatives to political

Quixotism. We did not consider Britain at all as the defender

of the liberties of mankind but as another Tyrant pretending to

exclusive dominion upon the ocean. A pretension full as detestable

and I trusted in God full as chimerical as the pretension of

universal monarchy upon the land.

[Illustration: MADAME DE STAËL]

“Madame de Staël was of her own opinion still but on the point of

empressment she owned that my observations were reasonable. I have

not yet found a European of any nation except the English who on

having this question in its true state brought to a precise point

had a syllable to say for the English side. In conclusion I told

her that the pretended retaliation of England had compelled us to

resort to real retaliation upon them and that as long as they felt

a necessity to fight for the practice of stealing men from American

merchant vessels on the high seas we should feel the _necessity_ of

fighting against it. I could only hope that God would prosper the

righteous cause.

“Madame de Staël charged me if I ever should be again in any place

where she should be at the same time not to neglect paying her a

visit which I very willingly promised. She left St. Petersburg

the same day. I should ask Sir Francis D’Ivernois pardon. I began

this letter with him, but whom can one help deserting for Madame

de Staël? I will return to Sir Francis by the next opportunity.

Dutifully and affectionately yours.”

[Illustration: Half-tone plate engraved by H. Davidson

MY DAUGHTER

FROM THE PAINTING BY FRANK W. BENSON

(THE CENTURY’S AMERICAN ARTISTS SERIES)]

[Illustration]

SIGIRIYA

“THE LIONS’ ROCK” OF CEYLON

BY JENNIE COKER GAY

WITH PICTURES BY DUNCAN GAY

“And after that, that wicked ruler of men (Kassapa) sent his groom

and his cook to his brother (Moggallana) to kill him. And finding

that he could not fulfil his purpose, he feared danger, and took

himself to Sihagiri rock, that was hard for men to climb. He

cleared it round about and surrounded it by a rampart, and built

galleries in it ornamented with figures of lions; wherefore it took

its name of Sihagiri (‘The Lions’ Rock’). Having gathered together

all his wealth, he buried it there carefully, and set guards over

the treasures he had buried in divers places. He built there a

lovely palace, splendid to behold....

“He planted gardens at the gates of the city.... He observed the

sacred days ... and caused books to be written. He made many

images, alms-houses, and the like; but he lived on in fear of the

world to come and of Moggallana.”[21]

That is what history has to say about the founding of Sigiriya (or

“Sihagiri,” as it is called in “The Mihavansa,”) and all that it has to

say; just enough to arouse our interest, and not enough to satisfy it.

At Anuradhpura we had come across numerous traces of Kassapa’s father,

Dhatusena, who was counted a great king when he ruled Ceylon fifteen

hundred years ago. And we were curious to see the place where Kassapa

had sought safety after he had killed Dhatusena and usurped the

throne, and had been forced to flee into the jungle for fear of his

brother Moggallana; so we decided to follow this bold, wild patricide

to his hiding-place not by the exact trail that he took, for no one

knows by what roundabout wandering he finally reached the rock, but by

the more modern and convenient, if somewhat dustier, way that leads

along the iron rails of the Ceylon Government railroad.

Sigiriya is southeast of Anuradhpura, and only about fifty miles away

from it in a direct line; but around by way of Kandy, as we purposed

to go, it is fully three times that far. It lies just north of the

mountainous center of Ceylon at the edge of the great plain that

stretches on the one hand to the Indian Ocean and on the other to the

small waters that separate the island from the Indian peninsula.

A long, hot ride through the western lowlands brought us to

Polgahawela, where the road we were to follow diverges at a right angle

from the main line, and we began to climb the magnificent mountains;

past rice-fields, so substantially terraced up the sides of the hills

that they looked like monstrous and never-ending fortifications; past

forests of palms and masses of brilliant flowers; past the world-famed

botanical gardens of Peradeniya, until just at dusk we came into the

lovely town of Kandy, which seemed delightfully fresh and cool after

the heaviness and heat of the plains. Beyond Kandy the road began to

descend again, until at Matale it suddenly came to an end, and we were

obliged to look out for some less-modern conveyance for the continuance

of our journey.

[Illustration: SIGIRIYA ROCK]

On the northeast coast of the island is a little place called

Trincomali. For the convenience of this village and the scattered

native settlements that lie between, a daily coaching service is

maintained, and this we found we might take as far as Dambolo. The

vehicle that was called a coach had a seat in front for the Cingalese

driver and the mail-bags, and behind this, two lengthwise seats

facing each other, which on a pinch could hold six persons, three on

a side. Into this conveyance we climbed; in climbed also a shiny,

round-headed Tamil, two wild-looking, magnificently dressed gentlemen

from Afghanistan, and a mild and smiling Mohammedan. All the morning

we rode, and at noon we changed horses and took lunch at a wayside

rest-house. The Afghans left us here, and I felt more comfortable,

for their mustaches curled in such a terribly fierce way, and their

remarkable costumes offered such unlimited opportunity for the carrying

of concealed weapons, as to warrant a certain uneasiness. We alighted

at Dambolo, and the stage went on and left us. And yet Dambolo is a

long way from Sigiriya--a long, long way in point of time.

The little rest-house that the Government places wherever one wishes

to spend the night took us in and gave us a room, and its Mohammedan

keeper advised us to use the rest of the afternoon seeing the rock

temples that have made Dambolo famous. Obediently we went to visit

these gorgeously decorated caverns, but, I am sorry to confess, they

gave me no pleasure. They are wonderful, or would be if one were given

an opportunity to look at them in peace and quiet; but one cannot

wonder or admire or enjoy, or do anything but fume, with dozens of

sleek yellow priests hanging about and holding out hands for Money!

money!” at the opening of every door and at the entrance and exit of

every cavern. This is a nuisance that the Government most certainly

should correct, for it spoils the enjoyment of many of the island’s

remarkable ruins.

[Illustration: VIEW OF THE WESTERN PORTION OF THE GALLERY LEADING TO

THE CITADEL OF SIGIRIYA]

We came down from the caves rather discouraged, but were somewhat

cheered when we looked upon the decorations of the table that had been

set for our dinner. An elaborate design was traced on the table-cloth

by a sprinkling of rice that had been dyed a bright pink. The very

holes in the cloth, and these were numerous, were turned into part

of the decoration; for they were made the centers of flowers or the

eyes of a bird, and one triangular rent formed the roof of a little

cottage. The keeper of the rest-house, who seemed to be cook, waiter,

and chambermaid, told us as he served the rice and chicken that he had

engaged a bullock-cart to take us the rest of the way. It was late the

next morning before the bullock, the cart, and the driver appeared at

our door. A bullock about the size of a three-months’-old calf, an

equally tiny cart, with an arched cover woven of split bamboo, and of

course without a suggestion of springs, and a Tamil driver, his head

tied up in the brightest of handkerchiefs, and with the ubiquitous

sarong (only it is not called a sarong in Ceylon) dangling about his

heels, made up our equipment for the last stage of the journey.

[Illustration: THE AUDIENCE-HALL ROCK]

The fabled tortoise was an animal of speed compared with that bullock.

Had we made an earlier start, I am sure we could have walked the whole

way; but the terrible sun made walking impossible, and we were forced

to keep huddled down under the cart’s protecting thatch. We could count

the seconds while the little animal seemed to stand poised after each

step. Even twisting his tail did little good, and beating none at all.

Along each side of the road the jungle formed a solid wall too dense

for beauty. Occasionally a bright-plumed bird peeped out through the

trees, and once a small panther-like animal showed himself at the

roadside, and our bullock actually ran until he was well away from the

danger.

[Illustration: ONE OF THE ENTRANCES TO THE GALLERY LEADING TO SIGIRIYA]

We were hot and dusty and tired when at last we came in sight of

Sigiriya, but in the presence of the strange impressiveness of this

enormous rock, heat, dust, and weariness passed from our thoughts like

a dream. It rose, this great shaft of granite, high above the trees,

like some enormous mushroom sprung suddenly from the dank flatness of

the jungle. Against the dusty green of the surrounding forest and the

burned-out blue of the pale, hot sky its simple and majestic outline

showed clean and sharp. But past all understanding was the brilliance

of coloring that marked its walls. In the glare of the declining sun

it looked as though a mighty battle had been fought upon the level

crown, and the blood of thousands of warriors had spilled and trickled

over the edge and down the cliff, and so set an indelible mark of

fierceness and anger on the face of this somber jungle monster.

At first we could see no evidence of past human occupation; but by and

by, as we drew nearer, we were able to detect a little spiral line,

broken here and there, that seemed to be wound about the face of the

cliff. What concerned us more at the time, however, was that we could

see no signs of present human habitation, and we were in sore need,

after the jolt, jolt, jolt of our wretched little cart, of food and a

place where we might sleep. Our Tamil driver, while he belabored his

bullock to make him hurry, had been telling us of the elephants and

tigers that lived out here in the jungle, and we could easily see for

ourselves that the woods were thick enough to shelter a whole menagerie

of animals; so it was with the greatest relief that we presently saw

a little rest-house in front of us, and leaving the small bullock and

his black driver to come as they pleased, we took to our own feet and

hurried on to the protecting inclosure. After a long rest and a long

good supper, we took our “Mihavansa,” and, there under the brow of the

great “Lions’ Rock,” read again the strange, fragmentary history of

Kassapa and his crime.

“ ... And he (Dhatusena) had two sons,--Kassapa, whose mother was

unequal in rank to his father, and Moggallana, a mighty man, whose

mother was of equal rank with his father. Likewise also he had a

beautiful daughter, who was as dear unto him as his own life. And

he gave her to wife unto his sister’s son, to whom also he gave

the office of chief of the army. And he (the nephew) scourged her

on the thighs, albeit there was no fault in her. And when the king

saw that his daughter’s cloth was stained with blood, he learned

the truth and was wroth, and caused his nephew’s mother to be

burnt naked. From that time forth the nephew bare malice against

the king; and he joined himself unto Kassapa, and tempted him to

seize the kingdom and betray his father. And then he gained over

the people, and caused the king his father to be taken alive. And

Kassapa raised the canopy of dominion after that he had destroyed

the men of the king’s party and received the support of the wicked

men in the kingdom. Thereupon Moggallana endeavored to make war

against him. But he could not obtain a sufficient force, and

proceeded to the Continent of India with the intent to raise an

army there.

“And that he might the more vex the king, who was now sorely

afflicted ... this wicked general spake to Kassapa the king,

saying, ‘O king, the treasures of the royal house are hidden by

thy father.’ And when the king said unto him, ‘Nay,’ he answered,

saying, ‘Knowest thou not, O Lord of the land, the purpose of this

thy father? He treasureth up the riches for Moggallana.’ And when

the base man heard these words he was wroth, and sent messengers

unto his father, saying, ‘Reveal the place where thou hast hid the

treasure.’ Thereupon the king thought to himself, saying: ‘This

is a device whereby the wretch seeketh to destroy us’; and he

remained silent. And they (the messengers) went and informed the

king thereof. And his anger was yet more greatly increased, and he

sent the messengers back unto him again and again. Then the king

(Dhatusena) thought to himself, saying, ‘It is well that I should

die after that I have seen my friend and washed myself in the

Kalavapi.’ So he told the messengers saying, ‘Now, if he will cause

me to be taken to Kalavapi, then shall I be able to find out the

treasure.’

“And when they went and told the king thereof he was exceedingly

glad, because that he desired greatly to obtain the treasure, and

he sent the messengers back to his father with a chariot. And while

the king, with his eyes sunk in grief, proceeded on the journey to

Kalavapi, the charioteer who drove the chariot gave him some of the

roasted rice that he ate....

“And when his friend, the Elder, heard that the king was coming,

he preserved and set apart a rich meal of beans with the flesh of

water-fowls that he had obtained, saying, ‘The king loveth this

sort of meat.’ ...

“Then the king went up to the tank, and after that he had plunged

therein and bathed and drank of its water as it pleased him, he

turned to the king’s servants and said, ‘O friends, this is all

the treasure that I possess!’ And when the king’s servants heard

these words they took him back to the city and informed the king.

Then the chief of men was exceeding wroth and said, ‘This man

hoardeth up riches for his son; and so long as he liveth will

he estrange the people of the island from me.’ And he commanded

the chief of the army, saying, ‘Kill my father.’ Thereupon he

(the general), who hated him exceedingly, was greatly delighted

and said, ‘Now have I seen the last of my enemy.’ And he arrayed

himself in all his apparel, and went up to the king, and walked

to and fro before him.... Then this violent man stripped the king

naked, and bound him with chains inside the walls of his prison

with his face to the east and caused it to be plastered up with

clay. What wise man, therefore, after that he hath seen such

things, will covet riches, or life, or glory!”

Kassapa was most certainly a wicked man,--the reading of “The

Mihavansa” leaves no doubt of that,--but when we came next day to look

over the remains of his city and to study this formidable rock that

he had subjugated and turned into a citadel, we knew that he was also

a man of genius. When he found that he was in danger from his brother

Moggallana, whom he had attempted in vain to kill, he led his host of

half-naked warriors out from the ancient capital of Anuradhpura into

the jungle, seeking for a refuge. Whether design or accident led him to

Sigiriya we do not know, but we do know that once having looked upon

its four hundred feet of towering walls and upon its uplifted acres, he

had the wisdom to see its possibilities and the genius to overcome the

difficulties, to an ordinary man the impossibilities, of the situation.

I dare say the abundance of his need helped his genius to speak; but

no matter what his incentive, when he conceived the notion of building

against this gigantic, cylindrical rock a spiral gallery which would

place at his disposal the four flat acres that crowned the summit, he

laid claim to the respect and admiration of ages.

The sides of the rock, which we had at first supposed to be

perpendicular, are really concave, and perhaps it would be more exact

to speak of this gallery as being built into, rather than against,

the mighty column. With such surpassing genius is it placed that it

literally makes itself one with the rock it embraces. To gain some sort

of foothold for the masonry, deep grooves were cut in the face of the

cliff, and from these a wall of brick and mortar was erected, and this

in turn supported the great limestone blocks which form the surface of

the road. This roadway was wide enough for four men to walk abreast,

and was protected by a wall nine feet high.

It is hard to emphasize sufficiently the wild boldness of the

conception and achievement. From base to summit the splendid gallery

mounted. Breaking the gentle slope here and there to lift itself

suddenly by a short flight of stairs, buttressed at one too abrupt

corner, snuggling at places under the brow of the rock, and at the one

terrace that breaks the height on the north side, it rose in direct

steps between the paws and up through the body of a great masonry

lion that Kassapa had built against the cliff. Finally it sought out

the only place where the top does not overhang the sides for its last

hurried dash before flinging itself triumphantly over the edge of the

summit.

The walls of this gallery were finished with some smooth, shining white

cement. It must have looked, when it was all in place, like a huge,

gleaming serpent wound about the face of the rock. Of course at the

present day much of it, indeed most of it, has fallen away; but the

fact that, despite the washing rains that for many years have come

pouring over the sides of the rock, one hundred yards of it remains in

almost perfect condition is proof of its splendid construction. For

the rest of the way the gallery can be traced by the deep grooves that

supported its base.

When, with the help of these grooves and the protecting bars that the

Government has kindly placed to give the adventurous traveler at least

a chance to reach the summit in safety, we had climbed to the very top,

we understood at last the unnatural markings on the face of the cliff

that had before puzzled us. Kassapa built his citadel of bright-red

brick. The whole crown of the rock was covered with his palaces, and

after they had fallen and crumbled, the heavy rains smeared the walls

with great streaks and patches of this brilliant stain.

[Illustration: PLAN OF THE TOPMOST PORTION OF THE INNER CITY OF

SIGIRIYA. (BASED ON A CEYLON GOVERNMENT SURVEY MAP)

The right-hand side of the map is the north side, the top is the west.]

The ground that lies at the base of the rock is not less interesting

than that upon its summit. Over the wooded sides of the little hill

that culminates in the great shaft, and spreading out into the jungle

about its foot, are the remains of the city that Kassapa built for his

army and followers. A strange city it must have been. The main houses

were of brick with tiled roofs, but these more formal dwellings were

supplemented by semi-caves tucked under the sides of every available

boulder. All the large stones show notches, cut evidently to hold the

ends of rafters and roof-beams. Up many of the highest boulders steps

have been hewn, possibly to make them accessible as watch-towers,

and at almost every turn one comes upon the indispensable cistern

that made living through the long dry season possible. Some of these

reservoirs were hewn out of solid stone, but most were built of brick

and cement, and the one little stream in the neighborhood was dammed

to form a large pond, which even now lies like a lake at the foot of

the little hill. So there was an outer city interspersed with gardens,

an inner city set on innumerable terraces up the slope of the hill,

and surmounting all, lifted four hundred feet above the crest of the

hill on its gigantic pedestal, stood the king’s palace and citadel. And

about all the city Kassapa built great protecting walls. So three times

over Kassapa fortified himself.

The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine (June 1913) Vol. LXXXVI. New Series: Vol. LXIV. May to October, 1913 · 第 12 / 20 段