CHAPTER XVII

THE WOMAN'S CAUSE

1868-1910

Women who weave in hope the daily web,

Who leave the deadly depths of passion pure,

Who hold the stormy powers of will attent,

As Heaven directs, to act, or to endure;

No multitude strews branches in their way,

Not in their praise the loud arena strives;

Still as a flameless incense rises up

The costly patience of their offered lives.

J. W. H.

We have seen that after the Doctor's death our mother felt that another

chapter of life had begun for her. It was a changed world without that

great and dominant personality. She missed the strength on which she had

leaned for so many years, the weakness which through the past months she

had tended and cherished. Henceforth she must lead, not follow; must be

captain instead of mate.

In another sense, the new life had actually begun for her some years

before, when she first took up public activities; to those activities

she now turned the more ardently for the great void that was left in

heart and home. We must now go back to the later sixties, and speak of

her special interests at that time.

Looking back over her long life, we see her in three aspects, those of

the student, the artist, the reformer. First came youth, with its ardent

study; then maturity, with its output of poems, plays, essays. So far

she had followed the natural course of creative minds, which must absorb

and assimilate in order that they may give out. It is in the third phase

that we find the aspect of her later life, a clear vision of the needs

of humanity, and a profound hospitality which made it imperative for her

to give with both hands not only what she had inherited, but what she

had earned. Having enjoyed unusual advantages herself, the moment she

saw the way to give other women these advantages, she was eager to "help

the woman-standard new unfurled."

In the first number of the "Woman's Journal," of which she was one of

the founders and first editors, she writes (January 8, 1870):--

"We who stand beside the cradle of this enterprise are not young in

years. Our children are speedily preparing to take our place in the

ranks of society. Some of us have been looking thoughtfully toward the

final summons, not because of ill health or infirmity, but because,

after the establishment of our families, no great object intervened

between ourselves and that last consummation. But these young

undertakings detain us in life. While they need so much care and

counsel, we cannot consent to death. And this first year, at least, of

our Journal, we are determined to live through."

Again she writes of this new departure:--

"In an unexpected hour a new light came to me, showing me a world of

thought and character. The new domain was that of true womanhood, woman

no longer in her ancillary relation to man, but in direct relation to

the divine plan and purpose, as a free agent fully sharing with man

every human right and every human responsibility. This discovery was

like the addition of a new continent to the map of the world. It did not

come all at once. In my philosophizing I at length reached the

conclusion that woman must be the moral and spiritual equivalent of man.

How otherwise could she be entrusted with the awful and inevitable

responsibilities of maternity? The Civil War came to an end, leaving the

slave not only emancipated but endowed with the full dignity of

citizenship. The women of the North had greatly helped to open the door

which admitted him to freedom and its safeguard, the ballot. Was the

door to be shut in their face?"

When this new world of thought, this new continent of sympathy was

opened to her, she was nearly fifty years old. "Oh! had I earlier

known," she exclaims, "the power, the nobility, the intelligence which

lie within the range of true womanhood, I had surely lived more wisely

and to better purpose."

Speaking of this new interest in her life, her old friend Tom Appleton

(who had not the least sympathy with it) once said, "Your mother's great

importance to this cause is that she forms a bridge between the world of

society and the world of reform."

She soon found that she was not alone in her questioning; similar

thoughts to hers were germinating in the minds of many women. In our

own and other countries a host of earnest souls were awake, pressing

eagerly forward. In quick succession came the women's clubs and

colleges, the renewed demand for woman suffrage, the Association for the

Advancement of Women, the banding together of women ministers. The hour

had come, and the women. In all these varying manifestations of one

great forward and upward movement in America, Julia Ward Howe was _pars

magna_. Indeed, the story of the latter half of her life is the story of

the Advance of Woman and the part she played in it.

The various phases may be taken in order. Oberlin, the first

coeducational college, was chartered in 1834. Vassar, the first college

for women only, was chartered in 1861, opened in 1865. Smith and

Wellesley followed in 1875. Considering this brave showing, it is

strange to recall the great fight before the barred doors of the great

universities. The women knocked, gently at first, then strongly: our

mother, Mrs. Agassiz, and the rest. They were greeted by a storm of

protest. Learned books were written, brilliant lectures delivered, to

prove that a college education was ruinous to the health of women,

perilous to that of future generations. The friends of Higher Education

replied in words no less ardent. Blast and counterblast rang forth.

Still the patient hands knocked, the earnest voices called: till at

length--there being friends as well as foes inside--slowly, with much

creaking and many forebodings, the great doors opened; a crack, then a

space, till to-day they swing wide, and the Higher Education of Women

now stands firm as the Pyramids.

The idea of woman suffrage had long been repugnant to our mother. The

demand for it seemed unreasonable; she was inclined to laugh both at the

cause and its advocates; yet when, in November, 1868, Colonel Thomas

Wentworth Higginson asked her to give her name to a call for a meeting

in behalf of woman suffrage she did not refuse. It would be "a liberal

and friendly meeting," the Colonel said, "without bitterness or

extravagance."

On the day of the meeting she "strayed into Horticultural Hall" in her

"rainy-day suit, with no idea of taking any active part in the

proceedings." Indeed, she had hoped to remain unnoticed, until summoned

by an urgent message to join those who sat upon the platform;

reluctantly she obeyed the summons. With this simple action the old

order changed for her. On the platform were gathered the woman suffrage

leaders, some of whom she already knew: William Lloyd Garrison, Wendell

Phillips, Thomas Wentworth Higginson, James Freeman Clarke; veteran

captains of Reform, her husband's old companions-in-arms. Looking in

their steadfast faces, she felt that she belonged with them; that she

must help to draw the car of progress, not drag like a brake on its

wheel.

Beside these were some unknown to her. She saw now for the first time

the sweet face of Lucy Stone, heard the silver voice which was to be

dear to her through many years. "Here stood the true woman, pure, noble,

great-hearted, with the light of her good life shining in every feature

of her face." These men and women had been the champions of the slave.

They now asked for wives and mothers those civil rights which had been

given to the negro; "that impartial justice for which, if for anything,

a Republican Government should stand." Their speech was earnest; she

listened as to a new gospel. When she was asked to speak, she could only

say, "I am with you."

With the new vision came the call of a new duty. "What can I do?" she

asked. The answer was ready. The New England Woman Suffrage Association

was formed, and she was elected its first president. This office she

held, with some interruptions, through life. It is well to recall the

patient, faithful work of the pioneer suffragists, who, without money or

prestige, spent _themselves_ for the cause. Their efforts, compared to

the well-organized and well-financed campaigns of to-day, are as a

"certain upper chamber" compared with the basilica of St. Peter, yet it

was in that quiet room that the tongues of Pentecost spoke.

"I am glad," she often said, "to have joined the suffrage movement,

because it has brought me into such high company."

The convert buckled to her new task with all her might, working for it

early and late with an ardor that counted no cost.

"Oh! dear Mrs. Howe, you are so _full_ of inspiration!" cried a foolish

woman. "It enables you to do _so much_!"

"Inspiration!" said "dear Mrs. Howe," shortly. "Inspiration means

_perspiration_!"

She says of her early work for suffrage:--

"One of the comforts which I found in the new association was the relief

which it afforded me from a sense of isolation and eccentricity. For

years past I had felt strongly impelled to lend my voice to the

convictions of my heart. I had done this in a way, from time to time,

always with the feeling that my course in doing so was held to call for

apology and explanation by the men and women with whose opinions I had

hitherto been familiar. I now found a sphere of action in which this

mode of expression no longer appeared singular or eccentric, but simple,

natural, and, under the circumstances, inevitable."

It was no small thing for her to take up this burden. The Doctor,

although a believer in equal suffrage, was strongly opposed to her

taking any active part in public life. He felt as Grandfather Howe had

felt forty years before when his son Sam spoke in public for the sake of

Greece; it jarred on his traditions. Others of the family also deplored

the new departure, and her personal friends almost with one accord held

up hands of horror or deprecation. These things were inexpressibly

painful to her; she loved approbation; the society and sympathy of "kent

folk," whose traditions corresponded with her own; but her hand was on

the plough; there was no turning back.

Suffrage worked her hard. The following year the New England Woman

Suffrage Association issued a call for the formation of a national body;

the names signed were Lucy Stone, Caroline M. Severance, Julia Ward

Howe, T. W. Higginson, and G. H. Vibbert. Representatives from

twenty-one States assembled in Cleveland, November 24, 1869, and formed

the American Woman Suffrage Association. There was already a "National

Woman Suffrage Association," formed a few months earlier; the new

organization differed from the other in some points of policy, notably

in the fact that men as well as women were recognized among the leaders.

Colonel Higginson was its president at one time, Henry Ward Beecher,

Bishop Gilbert Haven, and Dudley Foulke at others. The New England

Woman's Club also admitted men to membership: it was a point our mother

had much at heart. She held that the Quaker organization was the best,

with its separate meetings of men and women, supplemented by a joint

session of both. She always insisted upon the salutary influence that

men and women exercise upon one another.

"The two sexes police each other," she often said. She always maintained

the importance of their united action in matters of public as of private

interest. She was essentially a humanist in contradistinction to a

feminist.

She worked for the American Association during the twenty-one years of

its separate existence, first as foreign corresponding secretary,

afterward as president, and in various other capacities. When, in 1890,

the two societies united to form the National American Woman Suffrage

Association, she became and continued through life one of the

vice-presidents of that body. From the first, she was recognized as an

invaluable leader. The years of philosophical study had made her mind

supple, alert, quick to grasp and to respond, even as the study of

languages brought her the gift of ready speech and pure diction. Her

long practice in singing had given her voice strength, sweetness, and

carrying power; above all, she was a natural orator, and speaking was a

joy to her. The first time she ever made a speech in public was to a

group of soldiers of the Army of the Potomac on the occasion of a visit

to Washington during the war. She had driven out to visit the camp

outside the Capital. Colonel William B. Greene disconcerted her very

much by saying, "Mrs. Howe, you must speak to my men."

She refused, and ran away to hide in an adjacent tent. The Colonel

insisted, and finally she managed to make a very creditable little

speech to the soldiers.

Now, she no longer ran away when called upon to speak. Wherever the work

called her, she went gladly; like St. Paul, she was "in journeyings

often, ... in weariness and painfulness, in watchings often"; the

journals are full of incidents picturesque to read, uncomfortable to

live through. Occasionally, after some tremendous exertion, we read,

"Maud must not know of this!" or, "No one must ever know that I took the

wrong train!"

Much of her most important work for woman suffrage was done at the State

House, Boston. In Massachusetts, the custom of bringing this subject

before the legislature every year long prevailed. She always went to

these hearings. She considered it a privilege to take part in them;

counted them "among her most valued recollections." They extended over

forty years or more.

These occasions were often exasperating as well as fatiguing. She never

wearied of presenting the arguments for suffrage; she often suffered

vexation of spirit in refuting those brought against it, but she never

refused the battle. "If I were mad enough," she said once, "I could

speak in Hebrew!"

She was "mad enough" when at a certain hearing woman suffrage was

condemned as a "minority cause." Her words, if not in Hebrew, show the

fighting spirit of ancient Israel.

We quote from memory:--

The Reverend ----: "The fact that most women are indifferent or opposed

is a sufficient proof that woman suffrage is wrong."

Mrs. Howe: "May I ask one question? Were the Twelve Apostles wrong in

trying to bring about a better social condition when almost the whole

community was opposed to them?"

Dr. ----: "I suppose that question was asked merely for rhetorical

effect."

Mrs. Howe (having asked for two minutes to reply, with the whispered

comment, "_I shall die_ if I am not allowed to speak!"): "I do not know

how it is with Dr. ----, but I was not brought up to use the Bible for

rhetorical effect. To my mind, the suffragists and their opponents are

like the wise and the foolish virgins of the parable, equal in number

but not in wisdom. When the Bridegroom cometh, may Dr. ---- have his

wedding garment ready!"

She thus recalls some of the scenes in the State House where she was so

long a familiar figure:--

"I have again and again been one of a deputation charged with laying

before a legislature the injustice of the law which forbids the husband

a business contract with his wife, and of that which denies to a married

woman the right to be appointed guardian of her children. We reasoned

also against what in legal language is termed 'the widow's quarantine,'

the ordinance which forbids a widow to remain in her husband's house

more than forty days without paying rent, the widower in such case

possessing an unlimited right to abide under the roof of his deceased

wife. Finally, we dared ask that night-walkers of the male sex should be

made liable to the same penalties as women for the same offence. Our

bill passed the legislature, and became part of the laws of

Massachusetts."

Elsewhere she writes: "In Massachusetts the suffragists worked for

fifty-five years before they succeeded in getting a law making mothers

equal guardians of their minor children with the fathers. In Colorado,

when the women were enfranchised, the next legislature passed such a

bill." Of the movement by which women won a right to have a voice in the

education of their children, she says: "The proposal to render women

eligible for service on the School Board was met at first with derision

and with serious disapproval. The late Abby W. May had much to do with

the early consideration of this measure, and the work which finally

resulted in its adoption had its first beginning in the parlors of the

New England Woman's Club, where special meetings were held in its

behalf. The extension of the school suffrage to women followed, after

much work on the part of men and of women."

"These meetings," she said once, speaking before the Massachusetts Woman

Suffrage Association, "show, among other things, the character of those

who believe in suffrage with their whole heart. We who are gathered here

are not a frantic, shrieking mob. We are not contemners of marriage, nor

neglecters of home and offspring. We are individually allowed to be men

and women of sound intellect, of reputable life, having the same stake

and interest in the well-being of the community that others have. Most

of us are persons of moderate competence, earned or inherited. We have

had, or hope to have, our holy fireside, our joyful cradle, our decent

bank account. Why should any consider us as the enemies of society, we

who have everything to gain by its good government?"

It seems fitting to add a few more of her words in behalf of the cause

which she served so long,--words spoken at Club meetings, at Conventions

before Legislatures.

"But besides the philosophy of woman suffrage, we want its religion.

Human questions are not glorified until they are brought into touch with

the Divine...."

"The weapon of Christian warfare is the ballot, which represents the

peaceable assertion of conviction and will. Adopt it, O you women, with

clean hands and a pure heart!"

* * * * *

"The religion which makes me a moral agent equally with my father and

brother, gives me my right and title to the citizenship which I am here

to assert. I ought to share equally with them its privileges and its

duties. No man can have more at stake in the community than I have.

Imposition of taxes, laws concerning public health, order, and morality,

affect me precisely as they affect the male members of my family, and I

am bound equally with them to look to the maintenance of a worthy and

proper standard and status in all of these departments."

* * * * *

"God forbid that in this country chivalry and legislation should be set

one against the other. I ask you, gentlemen, to put your chivalry into

your legislation. Let the true Christian knighthood find its stronghold

in your ranks. Arm yourselves with the best reasons, with the highest

resolve, and deliver us poor women from the injustice which oppresses

and defrauds us."

* * * * *

"Revere the religion of home. Keep its altar flame bright in your

heart.... The vestals of ancient Rome were at once guardians of the

hearth and custodians of the archives of the Roman State. So, in every

time, the home conserves the sacred flame of life, and the destiny of

the nation rests with those who keep it."

* * * * *

"Go abroad with the majesty and dignity of your home about you.... Let

the modest graces of the fireside adorn you in the great gathering. This

is a new sort of home missionary, one who shall carry the blessed

spirit of home wherever she goes, a spirit of rest, of healing, of

reconciliation and good-will."

* * * * *

"One aspect of this [the military argument] would make the protection

which men are supposed to give to women in time of war the equivalent

for the political rights denied them. But, gentlemen, let me ask what

protection can you give us which shall compare with the protection we

give you when you are born, little helpless creatures, into the world,

without feet to stand upon, or hands to help yourselves? Without this

tender, this unceasing protection, no man of you would live to grow up.

It may easily happen that no man of a whole generation shall ever be

called upon to defend the women of his country in the field. But it

cannot happen that the women of any generation shall fail to give their

unwearied and energetic protection to the infant men born of it. Some of

us know how full of labor and detail this protection is; what anxious

days, what sleepless nights it involves. The mothers are busy at home,

not only building up the bodies of the little men, but building up their

minds too, teaching them to be gentle, pure and honest, cultivating the

elements of the human will, that great moralizing power on which the

State and the Church depend. A man is very happy if he can ever repay to

his mother the protection she gave him in his infancy. So, the plea of

protection has two sides.

"If manhood suffrage is unsatisfactory, it does not at all show that

woman suffrage would be. On the contrary, we might make it much better

by bringing to it the feminine mind, which, in a way, complements the

masculine, and so, I think, completes the mind of humanity. We are half

of humanity, and I do frankly believe that we have half the intelligence

and good sense of humanity, and that it is quite time that we should

express not only our sentiments but our determined will, to set our

faces as a flint toward justice and right, and to follow these through

the difficult path, through the thorny wilderness. Not to the bitter

end, but a very sweet end, and I hope it may be before my end comes."

* * * * *

Her last service to the cause of woman suffrage was to send a circular

letter to all the editors and to all the ministers of four leading

denominations in the four oldest suffrage States, Wyoming, Colorado,

Utah, and Idaho, asking whether equal suffrage worked well or ill. She

received 624 answers, 62 not favorable, 46 in doubt, and 516 in favor. A

letter from her to the London "Times," stating these results, appeared

on the same day that the news of her death was cabled to Europe.

Thinking of the long years of effort which followed her adoption of the

cause of woman suffrage, a word of the Doctor's, spoken in 1875, comes

vividly to mind.

"Your cause," said he, "lacks one element of success, and that is

opposition. It is so distinctly just that it will slide into

popularity." He little thought that the cause was to wait forty years

for that slide!

Side by side with the suffrage movement, growing along with it and with

the women's clubs, and in time to be absorbed by them, was another

movement which was for many years very dear to her, the Association for

the Advancement of Women.

This Association had its beginning in 1873, when Sorosis, then a sturdy

infant, growing fast and reaching out in every direction, issued a call

for a Congress of Women in New York in the autumn of that year. She says

of this call:---

"Many names, some known, others unknown to me, were appended to the

document first sent forth. My own was asked for. Should I give or

withhold it? Among the signatures already obtained, I saw that of Maria

Mitchell,[76] and this determined me to give my own."

[76] She had a great regard and admiration for Miss Mitchell. Scientific

achievement seemed to her well-nigh miraculous, and roused in her an

almost childlike reverence.

She went to the Congress, and "viewed its proceedings a little

critically at first," its plan appearing to her "rather vast and vague."

Yet she felt the idea of the Association to be a good one; and when it

was formed, with the above title, and with Mrs. Livermore as president,

she was glad to serve on a sub-committee, charged with selecting topics

and speakers for the first annual Congress.

The object of the Association was "to consider and present practical

methods for securing to women higher intellectual, moral, and physical

conditions, with a view to the improvement of all domestic and social

relations."

At its first Congress she said:

"How can women best associate their efforts for the amelioration of

Society? We must come together in a teachable and religious spirit.

Women, while building firmly and definitely the fabric they decide to

rear, must yet build with an individual tolerance which their combined

and corporate wisdom may better explain. The form of the Association

should be representative, in a true and wide sense. Deliberation in

common, mutual instruction, achievement for the whole better and more

valuable than the success of any,--these should be the objects held

constantly in view. The good of all the aim of each. The discipline of

labor, faith, and sacrifice is necessary. Our growth in harmony of will

and in earnestness of purpose will be far more important than in

numbers."

One hundred and ninety women formed this Association: a year later there

were three hundred. The second Congress was held in Chicago, with an

attendance "very respectable in numbers and character from the first,

and very full in afternoon and evening."

On the second day, October 16, 1874, the subject considered was "Crime

and Reform." The Journal says:--

"Mrs. Ellen Mitchell's paper on fallen women was first-rate throughout.

I spoke first after it, saying that we must carry the war into Africa

and reform the men...."

The meetings of the Congress grew more and more important to her. That

of 1875 found her "much tossed in mind" about going, on account of the

Doctor's ill health. She consulted Mr. Clarke, but felt afterward that

this was a mistake.

"My dæmon says: 'Go and say nothing. Nobody can help you bear your own

child.'"

She went.

No matter how fatiguing these journeys were, she never failed to find

some enjoyment in them; many were the pleasant "fruits of friendship"

gathered along the way. Some one of the sisters was sure to have a tiny

teapot in her basket; another would produce a spirit-lamp; they drank

their tea, shared their sandwiches, and were merry. She loved to travel

with her "dear big Livermore," with Lucy Stone, and the faithful

Blackwells, father and daughter; perhaps her best-loved companion was

Ednah Cheney, her "esteemed friend of many years, excellent in counsel

and constant and loyal in regard."

Once she and Mrs. Cheney appeared together at an "A.A.W." meeting in a

Southern city, where speaking and singing were to alternate on the

programme. It was in their later years: both were silver-haired and

white-capped. Our mother was to announce the successive numbers.

Glancing over the programme, she saw that Mr. So-and-So was to sing "The

Two Grenadiers." With a twinkling glance toward Mrs. Cheney, she

announced, "The next number will be 'The Two Granny Dears'!"

The Reverend Antoinette Blackwell, describing one of these journeys,

says:--

"As we went onward I was ready to close my eyes and 'loll' or look

lazily out to see the flying landscape seem to be doing the work. When

I roused enough to look at Mrs. Howe she was reading. Later, I looked

again, she was still reading. This went on mile after mile till I was

enough interested to step quietly across the aisle and peep over Mrs.

Howe's shoulder without disturbing her. She was reading a Greek volume,

apparently with as much enjoyment as most of us gain from reading in

plain English when we are not tired.... With apparent unwearied

enjoyment, she told us anecdotes, repeated the little stories and rhymes

and sang the little songs which she had given to her children and

grandchildren....

"We lingered at the breakfast table in the morning and among other

things came to comparing social likes and dislikes. 'I never can bring

myself to destroy the least bit of paper,' said Mrs. Howe, meaning paper

written on, containing the record of human thought and feeling which

might be of worth, and its only record. To her these were the chief

values of life."

The following notes are taken from the record of "A.A.W." journeys in

the eighties:--

"_Buffalo, October 22, 1881._ I felt quite distracted about leaving home

when I came this way for the Congress, but have felt clear about the

good of it, ever since. I rarely have much religious meditation in these

days, except to be very sorry for a very faulty life. I will therefore

record the fact that I have felt an unusual degree of religious comfort

in these last days. It seemed a severe undertaking to preach to-day

after so busy a week, and with little or no time for preparation. But my

text came to me as it usually does, and a hope that the sermon would be

given to me, which, indeed, it seemed to be. I thought it out in bed

last night and this morning...."

"My beautiful, beautiful West,

I clasp thee to my breast!

Or rather down I lie,

Like a little old babe and cry,

A babe to second childhood born,

Astonished at the mighty morn,

And only pleading to be fed,

From Earth's illimitable bread!"

"Left Schenectady yesterday. Drawing-room car. Read Greek a good deal.

At Syracuse I took the tumbler of the car and ran out to get some milk,

etc., for supper. Spent 25 cents, and took my slender meal in the car,

on a table. After this, slept profoundly all the evening; took the

sleeper at Rochester, and slept like the dead, having had very

insufficient sleep for two nights past. Was awakened early to get out at

Cleveland--much detained by a young woman who got into the dressing-room

before me, and stayed to make an elaborate toilet, keeping every one

else out. When at last she came out, I said to her, 'Well, madam, you

have taken your own time, to the inconvenience of everybody else. You

are the most selfish woman I ever travelled with.' Could get only a cup

of coffee and a roll at Cleveland--much confusion about cars--regained

mine, started, and found that I had left my trunk at Cleveland,

unchecked. Flew to conductor, who immediately took measures to have it

forwarded. Must wait all day at Shelby, in the most forlorn hole I ever

saw called a hotel. No parlor, a dark bedroom for me to stay in, a cold

hell without the fire, and a very hot one with it. Dirty bed not made

up, a sinister likeness of Schuyler Colfax hanging high on the wall, and

a print of the managers of Andy Johnson's impeachment. I--in distress

about my trunk--have telegraphed to Mansfield for the title of my

lecture and learn that it is 'Polite Society.' Must give it without the

manuscript, and must borrow a gown to give it in."

"_Minnesota in Winter_

"The twistings and turnings of a lecture trip have brought me twice, in

the present season, to Minnesota....

"To an Easterner, a daily walk or two is the first condition of health.

Here, the frost seemed to enter one's very bones, and to make locomotion

difficult.... Life at the hotel was mostly an anxious _tête-à-tête_ with

an air-tight stove. Sometimes you roasted before it, sometimes you

froze. As you crammed it with wood at night, you said, 'Will you, oh!

will you burn till morning?' Finally, on the coldest night of all, and

at that night's noon, you bade it farewell, on your way to the midnight

train, and wondered whether you should be likely to go further and fare

worse....

"After the lecture an informal sitting was held in the parlor of my

hostess, at which there was much talk of the clubs of Boston; 'If I

forget thee, O Jerusalem!' being the predominant tone in the minds of

those present. And at noon, away, away, in the caboose of a freight car,

to meet the passenger train at Owatonna, and so reach Minneapolis by

early evening.

"To travel in such a caboose is a somewhat rough experience. The dirt is

grimy and of long standing. The pictures nailed up on the boards are not

of an edifying description. The railroad employees who have admitted us

into their place of refuge wear dirty overalls, and eat their dinner out

of tin pails all afloat with hot coffee. One of my own sex keeps me in

countenance....

"_Minneapolis_

"Twenty years ago, a small collection of wooden houses, of no particular

account, except for the natural beauties of the spot on which they

stood. Now, a thriving and well-built city, whose manufacturers have

settled the controversy between use and beauty, by appropriating the

Falls of St. Anthony to the running of their saw- and flour-mills. My

first sensation of delight here was at finding myself standing on

Hennepin Avenue. To a reader of Parkman's histories, the spot was

classic.... To refresh my own recollections, I had recourse to the

Public Library of the town, where I soon found Parkman's 'Discovery of

the Great West.' Armed with this volume, with the aid of a cheap and

miserable railroad map, I traced out something of the movements of those

hardy French explorers. It was like living part of a romance, to look

upon the skies and waters which had seen them wandering, suffering, yet

undaunted....

"_St. Paul_

"But I cannot rest so near St. Paul without visiting this famous city

also. I contemplate a trip in the cars, but my friendly host leaves his

business for a day, and drives me over in an open sleigh. I do not

undertake this jaunt without Bostonian fears of death of cold, but

Minnesota cold is highly stimulating, and with the aid of a bottle of

hot water, I make the journey without a shiver.... Numbers of Indian

squaws from Mendota walk the streets in groups. I follow three of them

into a warehouse. One of them has Asiatic features--the others are

rather pretty. They are Sioux. I speak to them, but they do not reply.

The owner of the warehouse asks what he can show me. I tell him that I

desire to see what the squaws will buy. He says that they buy very

little, except beads, and have only come into the store to warm

themselves. They smile, and obviously understand English. We dine at the

hotel, a very pleasant one. There is no printed bill of fare, but the

waiter calls off 'beefsteak, porksteak,' etc., and we make a comfortable

meal. I desire to purchase some dried buffalo meat, and find some, not

without difficulty, as the season for selling it is nearly over. The

crowning romance of the day is a sleighride of five miles on the

Mississippi, giving us a near view of its fluted bluffs and numerous

islets. We visit also the Falls of Minnehaha, now sheeted in ice, but

very beautiful, even in this disguise. We talk of 'Hiawatha,' and my

companion says, 'If Mr. Longfellow had ever seen a Sioux Indian, he

would not have written "Hiawatha."' The way to the bottom of the falls

is so slippery with ice that I conclude not to attempt it. The day,

which was one of great exposure, passed in great pleasure, and without

chill or fatigue....

"In my days of romance, I remember watching late one night on board the

Mediterranean steamer in order to be sure of the moment in which we

should pass beyond the boundaries of the Italian shore. Something like

such a feeling of interest and regret came over me when, in the unpoetic

_sleeper_, I asked at what hour of the night the cars would pass out of

Minnesota on the way back to Chicago. This sincere testimony from a

veteran of travel, in all sorts, will perhaps convince those who do not

know the young State that she has a great charm of beauty and of

climate, besides a great promise of future prosperity and eminence."

"_Kansas_

"Travel in Minnesota was living romance. Travel in Kansas is living

history. I could not cross its borders, new as these are, without

unlocking a volume of the past, written in blood and in prayer, and

sealed with the forfeit of noble lives. A ghostly army of warriors

seemed to escort me as I entered the fair, broad territory. John Brown,

the captain of them, stretched his hand to the Capitol, and Sumner, and

Andrew, and Howe were with him. Here was the stand made, here the good

fight begun, which, before it was well under way, divided the thought

and sentiment of Europe, as well as those of America.

"My tired spirit sought to shake off at this point the commonplace sense

of weariness and annoyance. To be in Kansas, and that for work, not for

pastime. To bring the woman's word where the man's rough sword and spade

had once wrought together, this was poetry, not prose. To be cold, and

hungry, and worn with journeying, could not efface the great interest

and pleasure....

"_Atchison_

"I was soon told that a gentleman was anxious to speak with me

concerning my land at Grasshopper, which borders immediately upon his

own. Judge Van Winkle accordingly, with due permission, waited upon me,

and unfolded his errand. Grasshopper, he said, was a growing place. It

possessed already a store and an apothecary. It had now occasion for a

schoolhouse, and one corner of my land offered the most convenient place

for such an institution. The town did not ask me to give this land--it

was willing to pay a fair price for the two acres wanted. Wishing to

learn a little more about the township, I asked whether it possessed the

requisite variety of creeds.

"'Have you a Baptist, a Methodist, an Episcopalian, and a Universalist

church?'

"'No,' said my visitor, 'we have no church at all. People who wish to

preach can do so in some private house.' I afterwards learn that Judge

Van Winkle is a student of Plato; who knows what may be his Hellenic

heresy? He is endorsed, however, by others as a good, solid man, and the

proposition for the schoolhouse receives my favorable consideration.

"_Leavenworth_

"My first visit to Leavenworth was a stay of a couple of hours between

trains, on my way to southern Kansas. Short as this was, it yet brought

to my acquaintance two new friends, and to my remembrance two old ones.

Of the new friends, the first seen was Rev. Edward Sanborn, the

Unitarian minister of the place. Mr. Sanborn met me at the comfortless

depot, and insisted upon taking me to his lodgings, where Friend Number

Two, in the shape of his amiable wife, added herself to the list of my

well-wishers. Mr. Sanborn had just been burned out. His house took fire

while he and his wife were spending Christmas Day with a neighbor, and

burned so quickly that no article in it could be saved. He had found in

the ashes the charred remains of his manuscript sermons, and had good

hope of being able to decipher them. As the pleasant minutes passed in

easy conversation, I could not help reflecting on the instinctive

hospitality of Western life. This cosy corner in a mere hired bedroom

had given me a rest and a shelter which I should have been unwilling to

ask for in some streets of palaces which have been familiar to me from

my youth up."

The Association for the Advancement of Women was a pioneer society, and

did vital work for twenty-five years. During the greater part of that

time she was its president. She never missed (save when in Europe) one

of its annual congresses, or one of the mid-year conferences (of

officers only) which she considered of high moment. She worked for the

Association with a loving enthusiasm that never varied or faltered; and

it was a real grief to her when the changing of the old order resolved

it into its elements, to take new shape in the larger and

farther-reaching work of the General Federation of Clubs, and other

kindred societies.

Many of these may be called the children of "A.A.W." The greatest

service of the latter was in founding women's clubs throughout the

country. Wherever they went, to conferences or conventions, its leaders

called about them the thoughtful women of the neighborhood, and helped

them to plan local associations for study and work.

* * * * *

There was still another aspect of the Woman Question, dearer to her even

than "A.A.W."

A woman minister once said: "My conviction that Mrs. Howe was a divinely

ordained preacher was gained the first time that she publicly espoused

the question of woman suffrage in 1869."

We have seen that little Julia Ward began her ministrations in the

nursery. At eight years old she was adjuring her little cousin to love

God and he would see death approaching with joy. At eleven she was

writing her "Invitation to Youth":--

Oh! let thy meditations be of God,

Who guides thy footsteps with unerring eye;

And who, until the path of life is trod,

Will never leave thee by thyself to die.

When morning's rays so joyously do shine,

And nature brightens at the face of day,

Oh! think then on the joys that shall be thine

If thou wilt early walk the narrow way.

We have followed her through the Calvinistic period of religious gloom

and fervor; through the intellectual awakening that followed; through

the years when she could say to Philosophy,--

"... The world its plenitude

May keep, so I may share thy beggary."

These various phases were like divers-colored shades covering a lamp:

through them all the white flame of religion burned clear and steady,

fostered by a natural piety which was as much a part of her as the

breath she drew.

In the year 1865 came the call to preach. She was asked to speak before

the Parker Fraternity in Boston. She chose for her discourse a paper on

"Ideal Causation," which she had thought "the crown of her endeavor

hitherto."

"To my sorrow, I found that it did not greatly interest my hearers, and

that one who was reported to have wondered 'what Mrs. Howe was driving

at' had spoken the mind of many of those present.

"I laid this lesson much to heart, and, becoming convinced that

metaphysics did not supply the universal solvent for human evils, I

determined to find a _pou sto_ nearer to the sympathies of the average

community, from which I might speak for their good and my own.

"From my childhood the Bible had been dear and familiar to me, and I now

began to consider texts and sermons, in place of the transcendental webs

I had grown so fond of spinning. The passages of Scripture which now

occurred to me filled me with a desire to emphasize their wisdom by a

really spiritual interpretation. From this time on, I became more and

more interested in the religious ministration of women...."

Her first sermon was preached at Harrisburg in 1870. Then followed the

sermons in Santo Domingo, and those of the Peace Crusade in London; from

this time, the Woman Ministry was one of the causes dearest to her

heart. The Journal from now on contains many texts and notes for

sermons.

In 1871, "What the lost things are which the Son of Man came to save,

lost values, lost jewels, darkened souls, scattered powers, lost

opportunities."

A year later: "Preached in the afternoon at the South Portsmouth

meetinghouse. Text, 'I will arise and go unto my father,' Subject: 'The

Fatherhood of God.' I did as well as usual.... In the evening my text

was: 'Abide in me and I in you,' etc., but I was at one moment so

overcome with fatigue that the whole thread of my discourse escaped me.

I paused for a moment, excused myself briefly to the congregation, and

was fortunate enough to seize the thread of my discourse again, and got

through quite well. I felt this very much,--the fear of failure, I mean.

The fatigue was great and my brain felt it much. My dæmon told me

beforehand that I could not repeat this sermon and had better read it. I

shall believe him next time. This is a difficult point, to know how far

to trust the dæmon. He is not to be implicitly trusted, nor yet to be

neglected. In these days I am forced to review the folly and

shortcomings of my life. My riper reason shows me a sad record of

follies and of faults. I seem to sit by and listen sadly; no chastening

for the present is joyous but grievous."

"_Sunday, September 29._ Reverend Mrs. Gustine to dine. I afterwards to

church to hear her. A sweet woman, called of God, with a real power. Her

voice, manner, and countenance, most sweet and impressive. Intellection

not remarkable, I think, but tone, feeling, and effect very remarkable.

No one, I think, would doubt the reality of spiritual things after

hearing her. I asked myself why I am not jealous of her, as she preaches

far more effectively than I do. Well, partly because I believe in my own

gift, such as it is, and partly because what she does is natural,

genuine, and without pretence or pretension. Her present Society was

much disturbed by strife when she was called to its care. No man, she

told me, could have united the opposing parties. A true woman could.

This shows me a work that women have to do in the Church as well as

elsewhere. Where men cannot make peace, they can. Mrs. Gustine says that

by my writings and example I have helped her a good deal. I am glad to

hear this, but pray to do far better than I have yet done.... Thought

much about Mrs. Gustine, who, without any of my training and culture,

can do what I cannot. I can also do what she cannot--think a subject

out. She can only shadow and suggest, yet how powerful is the contact of

her soul, and what a good power!"

"_Saturday, October 26._ To Vineyard Haven to help Mr. Stevens with

to-morrow's services.... Arrival rainy and dismal. Mission house lonely

in a storm. Mr. S.'s young niece very capable and pleasant; did the

honors and took care of me. I was very hungry before supper, having had

nothing since breakfast except a few chestnuts and a biscuit. Wondered

a little why I had come."

"_Sunday, 27th._ Found out why I had come. Preached from text: 'Oh, that

men would praise the Lord for his goodness and for his wonderful works,'

etc. Consider these wonderful works: the world we live in, a human body

and brain, a human soul.

"_Evening._ 'The ministry of reconciliation,' how Christianity

reconciles man to God, nature to spirit, men to each other.

"I went through the two services entirely alone. I felt supported and

held up. I had hoped and prayed this journey might bring some special

good to some one. It brought great comfort to me...."

On February 16, 1873, after hearing a powerful sermon, she feels

awakened to take up the work over which she has dreamed so much, and

talks with her friend, Mary Graves, herself an ordained minister of the

Unitarian Church, about "our proposed Woman's Mission here in Boston." A

few days later she writes: "Determine that my Sunday services must be

held and to see Redpath[77] in this connection."

[77] Of the Redpath Bureau.

The result of this determination was the organization of the Woman's

Liberal Christian Union, which held Sunday afternoon meetings through

the spring. She preached the first sermon, on March 16. "I meant," she

says, "to read my London sermon, but found it not suitable. Wrote a new

one as well as I could. Had a very good attendance. Was forced to play

the hymn tunes myself. Am thankful that the occasion seemed to meet

with acceptance."

In 1873, a number of women ministers having come to Boston to attend the

May Anniversaries, she conceived the idea of bringing them together in a

meeting all their own. She issued a call for a Woman Preachers'

Convention, and this convention, the first held in any country, met on

May 29, 1873. She was elected president, the Reverends Mary H. Graves

and Olympia Brown vice-presidents, Mrs. Bruce secretary. The Journal

describes this meeting as "most harmonious and happy."

In 1893, speaking of this time, she said:--

"I find that it is just twenty years, last spring, since I made the

first effort to gather in one body the women who intended to devote

themselves to the ministry.

"The new liberties of utterance which the discussion of woman suffrage

had brought us seemed at this time not only to invite, but to urge upon

us a participation in the advocacy of the most vital interests both of

the individual and of the community. With some of us, this advocacy

naturally took the form of preaching. Pulpits were offered us on all

sides, and the charm of novelty lent itself to such merit and power as

Nature had vouchsafed us. I am so much of a natural church-woman, I

might say an ecclesiast, that I at once began to dream of a church of

true womanhood. I felt how much the masculine administration of

religious doctrine had overridden us women, and I felt how partial and

one-sided a view of these matters had been inculcated by men, and handed

down by man-revering mothers. Now, I thought, we have got hold of what

is really wanting in the Church universal. We need to have the womanly

side of religion represented. Without this representation, we shall not

have the fulness of human thought for the things that most deeply

concern it. As a first step, I undertook to hold religious services on

Sunday afternoons, and to secure for them the assistance of as many

woman preachers as I could hear of. I had in this undertaking the

assistance of my valued friend, Reverend Mary H. Graves."

The society thus formed was first called "The Woman's Church," later,

"The Woman's Ministerial Conference." A second meeting was held, June 1,

1874, but it was not till 1892 that this Conference was finally

organized and established, to her great satisfaction. She was elected

its president, and held the office till death.

The secretary, Reverend Ada C. Bowles, says of this Conference: "As its

main object was to promote a sense of fellowship, rather than to expect

associated labor, owing to the scattered membership, meetings were not

always regularly held, or possible. But it has held together because

Mrs. Howe loved it, and had a secretary as loyal to her as she was to

all the women ministers."

She herself has said: "I was impressed with the importance of religious

life, and believed in the power of association. I believed that women

ministers would be less sectarian than men; and I thought that if those

of different denominations could meet occasionally and compare notes, it

would be of value."

After the formal conference, she welcomed the members at her own house,

talked with them, and heard of their doings. Her eyes kindled as she

heard of the Wayside Chapel (of Malden, Massachusetts) built by its

pastor, Mrs. E. M. Bruce, who was also its trustee, janitor, choir, and

preacher; heard how for thirteen years this lady had rung the bell every

evening for vesper service, and had never lacked a congregation: or of

the other woman who was asked "very diffidently" if she would conduct

the funeral services of an honest and upright man who had died of drink,

owing to an inherited tendency.

"They had expected to have it in the undertaker's rooms," said the

Reverend Florence Buck, of Wisconsin, "but we had it in my own church.

It was packed with people of all sorts, who had been interested in him;

and the Bartenders' Union were there in a body.... It was an opportunity

that I would not have given up to preach to the President and Senate of

the United States. Next day ... they said, 'We expected she'd wallop us

to hell; but she talked to us like a mother!'"

Then she turned to the president, and said, "The woman minister is often

lonely. I want to thank Mrs. Howe, who welcomed me at the beginning of

my ministry. Her hand-clasp has stayed with me ever since."

Our mother was never ordained: it is doubtful whether she ever

contemplated such a step; but she felt herself consecrated to the work;

wherever she was asked to preach, she went as if on wings, feeling this

call more sacred than any other. She preached in all parts of the

country, from Maine to California, from Minnesota to Louisiana; but the

pulpit in which she felt most truly at home was that of the Church of

the Disciples. Mr. Clarke had first welcomed her there: his successor,

Charles Gordon Ames, became in turn her valued friend and pastor.

The congregation were all her friends. On Sundays they gathered round

her after service, with greetings and kind words. She was ready enough

to respond. "Congregationing," as she called this little function, was

her delight; after listening devoutly to the sermon, there was always a

reaction to her gayest mood. Her spirit came to church with folded hands

of prayer, but departed on dancing feet. Sometimes she reproached

herself with over-friskiness; but mostly she was too wise for this, and

let the sun shine when and where it would.

She preached many times in the Church of the Disciples. The white-clad

figure, the clasped hands, the upturned face shining with the inner

light, will be remembered by some who read these pages.

END OF VOLUME I

JULIA WARD HOWE

1819-1910

VOLUME II

CONTENTS VOLUME II

I. EUROPE REVISITED. 1877 3

II. A ROMAN WINTER. 1878-1879 28

III. NEWPORT. 1879-1882 46

IV. 241 BEACON STREET: THE NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION. 1882-1885 80

V. MORE CHANGES. 1886-1888 115

VI. SEVENTY YEARS YOUNG. 1889-1890 143

VII. A SUMMER ABROAD. 1892-1893 164

VIII. "DIVERS GOOD CAUSES." 1890-1896 186

IX. IN THE HOUSE OF LABOR. 1896-1897 214

X. THE LAST ROMAN WINTER. 1897-1898 237

XI. EIGHTY YEARS. 1899-1900 258

XII. STEPPING WESTWARD. 1901-1902 282

XIII. LOOKING TOWARD SUNSET. 1903-1905 308

XIV. "THE SUNDOWN SPLENDID AND SERENE." 1906-1907 342

XV. "MINE EYES HAVE SEEN THE GLORY OF THE COMING OF THE LORD."

1808-1910 369

JULIA WARD HOWE

CHAPTER I

EUROPE REVISITED

1877; _aet._ 58

A MOMENT'S MEDITATION IN COLOGNE CATHEDRAL

Enter Life's high cathedral

With reverential heart,

Its lofty oppositions

Matched with divinest art.

Thought with its other climbing

To meet and blend on high;

Man's mortal and immortal

Wed for eternity.

When noon's high mass is over,

Muse in the silent aisles;

Wait for the coming vespers

In which new promise smiles.

When from the dome height echoes

An "_Ite, missa est_,"

Whisper thy last thanksgiving,

Depart, and take thy rest.

J. W. H.

From the time of the Doctor's death till her marriage in 1887, the

youngest daughter was her mother's companion and yoke-fellow. In all

records of travel, of cheer, of merriment, she can say thankfully: "_Et

ego in Arcadia vixi_."

The spring of 1877 found the elder comrade weary with much lecturing and

presiding, the younger somewhat out of health. Change of air and scene

was prescribed, and the two sailed for Europe early in May.

Throughout the journeyings which followed, our mother had two objects in

view: to see her own kind of people, the seekers, the students, the

reformers, and their works; and to give Maud the most vivid first

impression of all that would be interesting and valuable to her. These

objects were not always easy to combine.

After a few days at Chester (where she laments the "restoration" of the

fine old oak of the cathedral, "now shining like new, after a boiling in

potash") and a glimpse of Hawarden and Warwick, they proceeded to London

and took lodgings in Bloomsbury (a quarter of high fashion when she

first knew London, now given over to lodgings). Once settled, she lost

no time in establishing relations with friends old and new. The

Unitarian Association was holding its annual conference; one of the

first entries in the Journal tells of her attending the Unitarian

breakfast where she spoke about "the poor children and the Sunday

schools."

Among her earliest visitors was Charles Stewart Parnell, of whom she

says:--

"Mrs. Delia Stewart Parnell, whom I had known in America, had given me a

letter of introduction to her son, Charles, who was already conspicuous

as an advocate of Home Rule for Ireland. He called upon me and appointed

a day when I should go with him to the House of Commons. He came in his

brougham and saw me safely deposited in the ladies' gallery. He was then

at the outset of his stormy career, and his sister Fanny told me that he

had in Parliament but one supporter of his views, 'a man named Biggar.'

He certainly had admirers elsewhere, for I remember having met a

disciple of his, O'Connor by name, at a 'rout' given by Mrs. Justin

McCarthy. I asked this lady if her husband agreed with Mr. Parnell. She

replied with warmth, 'Of course; we are all Home Rulers here.'"

"_May 26._ To Floral Hall concert, where heard Patti--and many others--a

good concert. In the evening to Lord Houghton's, where made acquaintance

of Augustus Hare, author of 'Memorials of a Quiet Life,' etc., with Mrs.

Proctor, Mrs. Singleton [Violet Fane], Dr. and Mrs. Schliemann, and

others, among them Edmund Yates. Lord Houghton was most polite and

attentive. Robert Browning was there."

Whistler was of the party that evening. His hair was then quite black,

and the curious white forelock which he wore combed high like a feather,

together with his striking dress, made him one of the most conspicuous

figures in the London of that day. Henry Irving came in late: "A rather

awkward man, whose performance of 'Hamlet' was much talked of at that

time." She met the Schliemanns often, and heard Mrs. Schliemann speak

before the Royal Geographical Society, where she made a plea for the

modern pronunciation of Greek. In order to help her husband in his work,

Mrs. Schliemann told her, she had committed to memory long passages from

Homer which proved of great use to him in his researches at Mycenæ and

Tiryns.

"_May 27...._ Met Mr. and Mrs. Wood--he has excavated the ruins at

Ephesus, and has found the site of the Temple of Diana. His wife has

helped him in his work, and having some practical experience in the use

of remedies, she gave much relief to the sick men and women of the

country."

"_June 2._ Westminster Abbey at 2 P.M. ... I enjoyed the service,

Mendelssohn's 'Hymn of Praise,' Dean Stanley's sermon, and so on, very

unusually. Edward Twisleton seemed to come back to me, and so did dear

Chev, and a spiritual host of blessed ones who have passed within the

veil...."

"_June 14._ Breakfast with Mr. Gladstone. Grosvenor Gallery with the

Seeleys. Prayer meeting at Lady Gainsborough's.

"We were a little early, for Mrs. Gladstone complained that the flowers

ordered from her country seat had but just arrived. A daughter of the

house proceeded to arrange them. Breakfast was served at two round

tables, exactly alike.

"I was glad to find myself seated between the great man and the Greek

minister, John Gennadius. The talk ran a good deal upon Hellenics, and I

spoke of the influence of the Greek in the formation of the Italian

language, to which Mr. Gladstone did not agree. I know that scholars

differ on the point, but I still retain the opinion I expressed. I

ventured a timid remark regarding the number of Greek derivatives used

in our common English speech. Mr. Gladstone said very abruptly, 'How?

What? English words derived from Greek?' and almost

'Frightened Miss Muffet away.'

"He is said to be habitually disputatious, and I thought that this must

certainly be the case; for he surely knew better than most people how

largely and familiarly we incorporate the words of Plato, Aristotle, and

Xenophon in our everyday talk."[78]

[78] _Reminiscences_, pp. 411 and 412.

Mr. Gladstone was still playing the first rôle on the stage of London

life. Our mother notes hearing him open the discussion that followed

Mrs. Schliemann's address before the Royal Geographical Society. Lord

Rosebery, who was at that time Mr. Gladstone's private secretary, talked

much of his chief, for whom he expressed impassioned devotion. Rosebery,

though he must have been a man past thirty at the time, looked a mere

boy. His affection for "Uncle Sam" Ward was as loyal as that for his

chief, and it was on his account that he paid our mother some attention

when she was in London.

She always remembered this visit as one of the most interesting of the

many she made to the "province in brick." She was driving three horses

abreast,--her own life, Maud's life, the life of London. She often spoke

of the great interest of seeing so many different circles of London

society; likening it to a layer cake, which a fortunate stranger is able

to cut through, enjoying a little of each. Her modest Bloomsbury

lodgings were often crowded by the leaders of the world of letters,

philanthropy, and art, and some even of the world of fashion. The little

lodging-house "slavey" was often awed by the titles on the cards she

invariably presented between a work-worn thumb and finger. It is

curious to contrast the brief record of these days with that of the

Peace Crusade.

"_June 10._ To morning service at the Foundling Hospital--very touching.

To luncheon with M. G. D. where met the George Howards."

"_June 15...._ 'Robert' [opera] with Richard Mansfield."

"_June 18._ Synagogue."

"_June 19._ Lord Mayor's Mansion House. I am to speak there concerning

Laura Bridgman. Henry James may come to take me to St. Bart.'s

Hospital."

"_June 25._ 'Messiah.' Miss Bryce."

"_June 26._ Dined with Capt. Ward. Theatre. Justin McCarthy."

"_June 28._ Meeting in Lambeth Library."

"_June 29._ Russell Gurney's garden party.

"Miss Marston's, Onslow Sq., 4 P.M. Anti-vivisection. Met Dudley

Campbell. A day of rest, indeed. I wrote out my anti-vivisection

argument for to-morrow, and finished the second letter to the Chicago

'Tribune.' Was thus alone nearly all day. Dined at Brentini's in my old

fashion, chop, tea, and beer, costing one shilling and fivepence."

She remembered with pleasure an evening spent with the Duke and Duchess

of Devonshire at Devonshire House. A ball at Mr. Goschen's was another

evening of enchantment, as was also the dinner given for her at

Greenwich by Edmund Yates, where she had a good talk with Mr. Mallock,

whose "New Republic" was one of the books of that season. She managed,

too, sometimes to be at home; among her visitors were William Black,

John Richard Green, and Mr. Knowles, editor of the "Nineteenth Century."

The London visit lasted nearly two months; as the engagements multiply,

its records grow briefer and briefer. There are many entries like the

following:--

"Breakfast with Lord Houghton, where met Lord Granville and M.

Waddington, late Minister of Education in France. Garden party at

Chiswick in the afternoon. Prince of Wales there with his eldest son,

Prince Albert Victor. Mrs. Julian Goldsmith's ball in the evening."

It is remembered that she bravely watched the dancers foot it through

the livelong night, and drove home by daylight, with her "poor dancing

Maud"!

Madame Waddington was formerly Miss King, the granddaughter of Mr.

Ward's old partner. Our mother was always interested in meeting any

descendants of Prime, Ward & King.

With all this, she was writing letters for the Chicago "Tribune" and the

"Woman's Journal." This year of 1877 saw the height of the Æsthetic

movement. Mrs. Langtry, the "Jersey Lily," was the beauty and toast of

the season. Gilbert and Sullivan's "Patience" was the dramatic hit of

the year, and "Greenery yallery, Grosvenor Gallery" the most popular

catch of the day.

She found it hard to tear herself away from England; the visit (which

she likened to one at the house of an adored grandmother) was over all

too soon. But July was almost gone; and the two travellers finally left

the enchanted island for Holland, recalling Emerson's advice to one

going abroad for the first time: "A year for England, and a year for the

rest of the world!"

The much neglected Journal now takes up the story.

The great Franz Hals pictures delighted her beyond measure. She always

bought the best reproductions she could afford, and valued highly an

etching that she owned from his Bohémienne. She never waited for any

authority to admire either a work of art or a person. She had much to

say about the influence of the Dutch blood both in our own family and in

our country, which was to her merely a larger family connection. All

through Holland she was constantly noting customs and traditions which

we seemed to have inherited; and she felt a great likeness and sympathy

between herself and some of the Dutch people she knew.

"_The Hague._ To the old prison where the instruments of torture are

preserved. The prison itself is so dark and bare that to stay therein

was a living death. To this was often added the most cruel torture. The

poor wretch was stretched on a cross, on which revolving wheels, turned

by a crank, agonized and destroyed his spinal column--or, by another

machine, his head and feet were drawn in opposite directions--or, his

limbs were stretched out and every bone broken with an iron bar.

Tortures of fire and water were added. Through all these horrors, I saw

the splendors of faith and conscience which illuminated these dungeons,

and which enabled frail humanity to bear these inflictions without

flinching."

She always wanted to see the torture chambers. She listened to all the

detailed explanations and looked at all the dreadful instruments, buoyed

up by the thought of the splendors she speaks of, when mere shrinking

flesh-and-blood creatures like her companion, who only thought of the

poor tortured bodies, could not bear the strain of it.

From The Hague they went to Amsterdam, where they "worked hard at seeing

the rich museum, which contains some of the largest and best of

Rembrandt's pictures, and much else of interest"; thence to Antwerp.

Here she writes:--

"To the Museum, where saw the glorious Rubens and Van Dycks, together

with the Quentin Matsys triptych. Went to the Cathedral, and saw the

dear Rubens pictures--my Christ in the Elevation of the Cross seemed to

me as wonderful as ever. The face asks, 'Why hast thou forsaken me?' but

seems also to reflect the answer, from the very countenance of the

Father. Education of the Virgin by Rubens--angels hold a garland above

the studious head of the young Madonna. This would be a good picture for

Vassar."

"_Sunday, July 29._ Up betimes--to high mass at the Cathedral. Had a

seat near the Descent, and saw it better than ever before. Could not see

the Elevation so well, but feasted my eyes on both. Went later to the

church of St. Paul where Rubens's Flagellation is. Found it very

beautiful. At 4 P.M. M. Félu[79] came to take us to the Zoo, which is

uncommonly good. The collection of beasts from Africa is very rich. They

are also successful in raising wild beasts, having two elephants, a

tiger, and three giraffes which have been born in the cages--some young

lions also. The captive lioness always destroyed her young, and these

were saved by being given to a dog to nurse...."

[79] The armless painter. See _ante_, vol. I, chap. XII.

August found the travellers in Prussia.

"Passed the day in Berlin.... At night took railroad for Czerwinsk,

travelling second-class. After securing our seats, as we supposed, we

left the cars to get some refreshments, when a man and a woman displaced

our effects, and took our places. The woman refused to give me my place,

and annoyed me by pushing and crowding me."

The brutality of this couple was almost beyond belief. She was always so

gracious to fellow-travellers that they usually "made haste to be kind"

in return. She made it a point to converse with the intelligent-looking

people she met, either in the train or at the _tables d'hôte_ then still

in vogue. She talked with these chance acquaintances of their country or

their profession. It was never mere idle conversation.

This journey across Europe was undertaken solely for the pleasure of

seeing her sister, always her first object in visiting Europe. The bond

between them was very strong, spite of the wide difference of their

natures and the dissimilarity of their interests. Mrs. Terry was now

visiting her eldest daughter, Annie Crawford, married to Baron Eric von

Rabé and living at Lesnian in German Poland. Baron Eric had served in

the Franco-Prussian War with distinction, had been seriously wounded,

and obliged to retire from active service. Here was an entirely new

social atmosphere, the most conservative in Europe. Even before the

travellers arrived, the shadow of formality had fallen upon them; for

Mrs. Terry had written begging that they would arrive by "first-class"!

At that time the saying was, "Only princes, Americans, and fools travel

first-class," and our mother's rule had been to travel second. The

journey was already a great expense, and the added cost seemed to her

useless. Accordingly, she bought second-class tickets to a neighboring

station and first-class ones from there to Czerwinsk. This entailed

turning out in the middle of the night and waiting an hour for the

splendid express carrying the stiff and magnificently upholstered

first-class carriages, whose red plush seats and cushions were nothing

like so comfortable as the old grey, cloth-lined, second-class

carriages!

Still, the travellers arrived looking as proud as they could, wearing

their best frocks and bonnets. They travelled with the Englishwoman's

outfit. "Three suits. Hightum, tightum, and scrub." "Hightum" was for

any chance festivity, "tightum" for the _table d'hôte_, "scrub" for

everyday travelling. The question of the three degrees was anxiously

discussed on this occasion; it was finally decided that only "hightum"

would come up to the Von Rabé standard.

"_August 4._ Arrived at Czerwinsk, where sister L. and Baron von Rabé

met us. He kissed my hand in a courtly manner. My sister looks well, but

has had a hard time. We drove to Lesnian where Annie von R. and her

mother-in-law made us welcome."

"_August 9, Lesnian._ A quiet day at home, writing and some work. Tea

with Sister L. in the open air. Then went with Baron von Rabé to visit

his farm buildings, which are very extensive; not so nicely finished as

would be the case in America. We got many fleas in our clothes.... In

the evening the Baron began to dispute with me concerning the French and

the use and excellence of war, etc...."

"_August 12._ Up early--to Czerwinsk and thence by Dirschau to

Marienburg to see the famous Ritterschloss of the Teutonic Knights....

Marien-Kirch.... Angel Michael weighing the souls, a triptych--the good

in right wing received by St. Peter and clothed by angels, the wicked in

the other wing going down. The beautiful sheen of the Archangel--like

peacock brightness--a devil with butterfly wings."

"_August 14._ In the church yesterday we were shown five holes in a flat

tombstone. They say that a parricide was buried beneath this stone, and

the fingers of his hand forced themselves through these holes. They

showed us this hand, dried, and hung up in a chapel. Here also we saw a

piece of embroidery in fine pearls, formerly belonging to the Catholic

service, and worth thousands of dollars. Some very ancient priests'

garments, with Arabic designs, were said to have been brought from the

East by the Crusaders. An astronomic clock is shown in the church. The

man who made it set about making another, but was made blind lest he

should do so. By and by, pretending that he must repair or regulate

something in the clock, he so puts it out of order that it never goes

again.

"The amber-merchant--the felt shoes--views of America--the lecture--the

Baltic."

She was enchanted with Dantzig. The ancient Polish Jews in their long

cloth gabardines, with their hair dressed in two curls worn in front of

the ear and hanging down on either side of the face, showed her how

Shylock must have looked. She was far more interested in the relics of

the old Polish civilization than in the crude, brand-new Prussian régime

which was replacing it; but this did not suit her hosts. The peasants

who worked on the estate were all Poles; the relations between them and

their employer smacked strongly of serfdom. One very intelligent man,

who often drove her, was called Zalinski. It struck her that this man

might be related to her friend Lieutenant Zalinski, of the United States

Army. She asked him if he had any relatives in America. He replied that

a brother of his had gone to America many years before. He seemed deeply

interested in the conversation and tried once or twice to renew it. One

of the family, who was driving with our mother at the time, managed to

prevent any more talk about the American Zalinski, and when the drive

was over she was seriously called to account.

"Can you not see that it would be extremely unfortunate if one of our

servants should learn that any relative of his could possibly be a

friend of one of our guests?"

She was never allowed to see Zalinski again; on inquiring for him, she

learned that he had been sent to a fair with horses to sell. He did not

return to Lesnian during the remainder of her stay.

One of the picturesque features of the visit was the celebration of

Baron Eric's birthday. It was a general holiday, and no work was done on

the estate. After breakfast family and guests assembled in front of the

old château; the baron, a fine, soldierly-looking man, his wife, the

most graceful of women, and the only daughter, a lovely little girl with

the well-chiselled Crawford features. The peasants, dressed in their

best, assembled in procession in the driveway; one by one, in order of

their age or position, they came up the steps, presented the Baroness

with a bouquet, bent the knee and kissed the hand of Baron and Baroness.

To most of the guests the picture was full of Old-World romance and

charm. To one it was an offence. That the granddaughter of her father,

the child of her adored sister, should have been placed by fate in this

feudal relationship to the men and women by whose labor she lived

outraged her democratic soul.

The Journal thus describes the days at Lesnian:--

"The Baron talked much last evening, first about his crops, then about

other matters. He believes duelling to be the most efficient agency in

promoting a polite state of society. Would kill any one whom he

suspected of great wrong much sooner than bring him to justice. The law,

he says, is slow and uncertain--the decision of the sword much more

effectual. The present Government favors duelling. If he should kill

some one in a duel, he would have two months of imprisonment only. He

despises the English as a nation of merchants. The old German knights

seem to be his models. With these barbarous opinions, he seems to be

personally an amiable and estimable man. Despises University education,

in whose course he might have come in contact with the son of a

carpenter, or small shopkeeper--he himself went to a Gymnase, with sons

of gentlemen...."

"Everything in the Junkerschaft[80] bristles for another war. Oscar von

Rabé's room, in which I now write, contains only books of military

drill.

[80] The Prussian aristocracy.

"This day we visited the schoolhouse--session over, air of the room

perfectly fetid. Schoolmaster, whom we did not see, a Pole--his sister

could speak no German. Tattered primers in German. Visited the Jew, who

keeps the only shop in Lesnian. Found a regular country assortment. He

very civil. _Gasthaus_ opposite, a shanty, with a beer-glass, coffee-cup

and saucer rudely painted on its whitewashed boards. Shoemaker in a damp

hovel, with mahogany furniture, quite handsome. He made me a salaam with

both hands raised to his head."

"We went to call upon Herr von Rohr, at Schenskowkhan--an extensive

estate. I had put on my Cheney silk and my bonnet as a great parade.

Our host showed us his house, his books and engravings--he has several

etchings by Rembrandt. Herr von Mechlenberg, public librarian of

Königsberg, a learned little old man, trotted round with us. We had

coffee and waffles. Mechlenberg considers the German tongue a very

ancient one, an original language, not patched up like French and

English, of native dialects mingled with Latin."

In one of her letters to the Chicago "Tribune" is a significant passage

written from Lesnian:--

"Having seen in one of the Dantzig papers the announcement that a

certain Professor Blank would soon deliver a lecture upon America,

showing the folly of headlong emigration thither and the ill fortune

which many have wrought for themselves thereby, one of us remarked to a

Dantziger that in such a lecture many untruths would probably be

uttered. Our friend replied, with a self-gratulatory laugh, 'Ah, Madame!

We Germans know all about the women of America. A German woman is

devoted to her household, its care and management; but the American

women all force their husbands to live in hotels in order that they may

have no trouble in housekeeping.'"

She was as sensitive to criticism of her country as some people are to

criticism of their friends. Throughout her stay in Germany she suffered

from the captious and provoking tone of the Prussian press about things

American.

Even in the churches she met this note of unfriendliness. She took the

trouble to transcribe in her Journal an absurd newspaper story.

"An American Woman of Business

"Some little time since, a man living near Niagara Falls had the

misfortune to fall from the bridge leading to Goat's Island. [Berlin

paper says _Grat_ Island.] He was immediately hurried to the edge of the

fearful precipice. Here, he was able to cling to a ledge of rock, and to

support himself for half an hour, until his unavoidable fate overtook

him. A compassionate and excited multitude rushed to the shore, and into

the house, where the unhappy wife was forced to behold the death

struggle of her husband, lost beyond all rescue, this spot yielding the

best view of the scene of horror. The 'excellent' wife had too much

coolness to allow this opportunity of making money to escape her, but

collected from every person present one dollar for window rent.

(Berliner _Fremdenblatt_, Sunday, August 26, 1877.)"

The stab was from a two-edged sword; she loved profoundly the great

German writers and composers. She was ever conscious of the debt she

owed to Germany's poets, philosophers, and musicians. Goethe had been

one of her earliest sources of inspiration, Kant her guide through many

troublous years; Beethoven was like some great friend whose hand had led

her along the heights, when her feet were bleeding from the stones of

the valley. These were the Germans she knew; her Germany was theirs. Now

she came in contact with this new _Junker_ Germany, this harsh,

military, unlovely country where Bismarck was the ruling spirit, and

Von Moltke the idol of the hour. It was a rough awakening for one who

had lived in the gentler Fatherland of Schiller and of Schubert.

"_August 31, Berlin._ Up early, and with carriage to see the review....

A great military display. The Emperor punctual at 10. '_Guten Morgen!_'

shouted the troops when he came. The Crown Princess on horseback with a

blue badge, Hussar cap. The kettle-drum man had his reins hitched, one

on either foot, guiding his horse in this way, and beating his drums

with both hands...."

The Crown Princess, later the Empress Frederick, daughter of Queen

Victoria, and mother of the present German Emperor, was the honorary

colonel of the hussar regiment whose uniform she wore, with the addition

of a plain black riding-skirt. Civilization owes this lady a debt that

cannot be paid save in grateful remembrance. During the Franco-Prussian

War she frequently telegraphed to the German officers commanding in

France, urging them to spare the works of art in the conquered country.

Through her efforts the studios of Rosa Bonheur and other famous

painters escaped destruction.

The early part of September was spent in Switzerland. Chamounix filled

the travellers with delight. They walked up the Brevant, rode to the Mer

de Glace on muleback. The great feature, however, of this visit to

Switzerland was the Geneva Congress, called by Mrs. Josephine Butler to

protest against the legalizing of vice in England.

"At the Congress to-day--spoke in French.... I spoke of the two sides,

active and passive, of human nature, and of the tendency of the

education given to women to exaggerate the passive side of their

character, whereby they easily fall victims to temptation. Spoke of the

exercise of the intellectual faculties as correcting these

tendencies--education of women in America--progress made. Coeducation

and the worthier relations it induces between young men and women. Said,

where society thinks little of women, it teaches them to think little of

themselves. Said of marriage, that Milton's doctrine, 'He for God only,

she for God in him,' was partial and unjust. '_Ce Dieu, il faut le

mettre entre les deux, de manière que chacun des deux appartienne

premièrement à Dieu, puis tous les deux l'un à l'autre._'"

"Wish to take up what Blank said to-day of the superiority of man. Woman

being created second. That is no mark of inferiority. Shall say, this

doctrine of inequality very dangerous. Inferior position, inferior

education, legal status, etc. Doctrine of morality quite opposite. If

wife patient and husband not, wife superior--if wife chaste, husband

not, wife superior. Each indispensable to each other, and to the whole.

Gentlemen, where would you have been if we had not cradled and tended

you?"

"_Congress...._ Just before the end of the meeting Mr. Stuart came to me

and said that Mrs. Butler wished me to speak for five minutes. After

some hesitation I said that I would try. Felt much annoyed at being

asked so late. Went up to the platform and did pretty well in French.

The audience applauded, laughing a little at some points. In fact, my

little speech was a decided success with the French-speaking part of the

audience. Two or three Englishwomen who understood very little of it

found fault with me for occasioning laughter. To the banquet...."

"_September 23._ This morning Mrs. Sheldon Ames and her brother came to

ask whether I would go to Germany on a special mission. Miss Bolte also

wished me to go to Baden Baden to see the Empress of Germany."

"_September 24._ A conference of Swiss and English women at 11 A.M. A

sister of John Stuart Mill spoke, like the other English ladies, in very

bad French. '_Nous femmes_' said she repeatedly. She seemed a good

woman, but travelled far from the subject of the meeting, which was the

work to be done to carry out what the Congress had suggested. Mrs.

Blank, of Bristol, read a paper in the worst French I ever heard.

'_Ouvrager_' for '_travailler_' was one of her mistakes."

In spite of some slight criticisms on the management of this Congress,

she was heart and soul in sympathy with its object; and until the last

day of her life, never ceased to battle for the higher morality which at

all costs protests against the legalizing of vice.

Before leaving Geneva she writes:--

"To Ferney in omnibus. The little church with its inscription '_Deo

erexit Voltaire_,' and the date.... I remember visiting Ferney with dear

Chev; remember that he did not wish me to see the model [of Madame Du

Châtelet's monument] lest it should give me gloomy thoughts about my

condition--she died in childbirth, and the design represents her with

her infant bursting the tomb."

October found the travellers in Paris, the elder still intent on affairs

of study and reform, the younger grasping eagerly at each new wonder or

beauty.

There were meetings of the Academy of Fine Arts, the Institute of

France, the Court of Assizes: teachers' meetings, too, and dinners with

deaconesses (whom she found a pleasant combination of cheerfulness and

gravity), and with friends who took her to the theatre.

"To Palais de Justice. Court of Assizes--a young man to be condemned for

an offence against a girl of ten or twelve, and then to be tried for

attempt to kill his brother and brother-in-law....

"We were obliged to leave before the conclusion of the trial, but

learned that its duration was short, ending in a verdict of guilty, and

sentence of death. In the days that followed our thoughts often visited

this unfortunate man in his cell, so young, apparently without

friends--his nearest relatives giving evidence against him, and, in

fact, bringing the suit that cost his life. It seems less than Mosaic

justice to put a man to death for a murder which, though attempted, was

not actually committed. A life for a life is the old doctrine. This is a

life for an attempt upon a life."

An essay on Paris, written soon after, recalls further memories. She

visited the French Parliament, and was surprised at the noise and

excitement which prevailed.

"The presiding officer agitates his bell again and again, to no purpose.

He constantly cries, in piteous tone: 'Gentlemen, a little silence, if

you please.'"

She tells how "one of the ushers with great pride pointed out Victor

Hugo in his seat," and says further:

"I have seen this venerable man of letters several times,--once in his

own house.... We were first shown into an anteroom, and presently into a

small drawing-room. The venerable viscount kissed my hand ... with the

courtesy belonging to other times. He was of middle height, reasonably

stout. His eyes were dark and expressive, and his hair and beard were

snow-white. Several guests were present.... Victor Hugo seated himself

alone upon a sofa, and talked to no one. While the rest of the company

kept up a desultory conversation, a servant announced M. Louis Blanc,

and our expectations were raised only to be immediately lowered, for at

this announcement Victor Hugo arose and withdrew into another room, from

which we were able to hear the two voices in earnest conversation...."

"_November 27._ Packing to leave Paris to-night for Turin. The blanks

left in my diary do not mark idle days. I have been exceedingly busy,

... have written at least five newspaper letters, and some other

correspondence. Grieved this morning over the time wasted at shop

windows, in desiring foolish articles which I could not afford to buy,

especially diamonds, which I do not need for my way of life. Yet I have

had more good from my stay in Paris than this empty Journal would

indicate. Have seen many earnest men and women--have delivered a lecture

in French--have started a club of English and American women students,

for which _Deo gratias!_ Farewell, dear Paris, God keep and save thee!"

She mentions this club in the "Reminiscences." "I found in Paris a

number of young women, students of art and medicine, who appeared to

lead very isolated lives and to have little or no acquaintance with one

another. The need of a point of social union for these young people

appearing to me very great, I invited a few of them to meet me at my

lodgings. After some discussion we succeeded in organizing a small club,

which, I am told, still exists.... [If we are not mistaken, this small

club was a mustard seed which in time grew into the goodly tree of the

American Girls' Club.] I was invited several times to speak while in

Paris.... I spoke in French without notes.... Before leaving Paris I was

invited to take part in a congress of woman's rights. It was deemed

proper to elect two presidents for this occasion, and I had the honor of

being chosen as one of them....

"Somewhat in contrast with these sober doings was a ball given by the

artist Healy at his residence. I had told Mrs. Healy in jest that I

should insist upon dancing with her husband. Soon after my entrance she

said to me, 'Mrs. Howe, your quadrille is ready for you. See what

company you are to have.' I looked and beheld General Grant and M.

Gambetta, who led out Mrs. Grant, while her husband had Mrs. Healy for

his partner in the quadrille of honor.... Marshal MacMahon was at this

time President of the French Republic. I attended an evening reception

given by him in honor of General and Mrs. Grant. Our host was supposed

to be at the head of the Bonapartist faction, and I heard some rumors of

an intended _coup d'état_ which should bring back imperialism and place

Plon-Plon [the nickname for Prince Napoleon] on the throne.... I

remember Marshal MacMahon as a man of medium height, with no very

distinguishing feature. He was dressed in uniform and wore many

decorations."

During this visit to Paris, our mother consorted largely with the men

and women she had met at the Geneva Congress. She takes leave of Paris

with these words: "Better than the filled trunk and empty purse, which

usually mark a return from Paris, will be a full heart and a hand

clasping across the water another hand pure and resolute as itself."

The two comrades journeyed southward by way of Turin, Milan, and Verona.

Of the last place the Journal says:--

"Busy in Verona--first, amphitheatre, with its numerous cells, those of

the wild beasts wholesomely lighted and aired, those of the prisoners,

dark and noisome and often without light of any kind.... Then to the

tombs of the Scaligers--grim and beautiful. Can Signoria who killed his

brother was the last. Can Grande, Dante's host."

In Verona she was full of visions of the great poet whose exile she

describes in the poem called, "The Price of the Divina Commedia." One

who met her there remembers the extraordinary vividness of her

impressions. It was as if she had seen and talked with Dante, had heard

from his own lips how hard it was to eat the salt and go up and down the

stairs of others.

From Verona to Venice, thence to Bologna. Venice was an old friend

always revisited with delight. Bologna was new to her; here she found

traces of the notable women of its past. In the University she was shown

the recitation room where the beautiful female professor of anatomy is

said to have given her lectures from behind a curtain, in order that the

students' attention should not be distracted from her words of wisdom by

her beauty. In the picture gallery she found out the work of Elisabetta

Sirani, one of the good painters of the Bolognese school.

And now, after twenty-seven years, her road led once more to Rome.

CHAPTER II

A ROMAN WINTER

1878-1879; _aet._ 59-60

JANUARY 9, 1878

A voice of sorrow shakes the solemn pines

Within the borders of the Apennines;

A sombre vision veils the evening red,

A shuddering whisper says: the King is dead.

Low lies he near the throne

That strange desert and fortune made his own;

And at his life's completion, from his birth

In one fair record, men recount his worth.

Chief of the Vatican!

Heir of the Peter who his Lord denied,

Not of the faith which that offence might hide,

Boast not, "I live, while he is coldly laid."

Say rather, in the jostling mortal race

He first doth look on the All-father's face.

Life's triple crown absolved weareth he,

Clear Past, sad Present, fond Futurity.

J. W. H.

The travellers arrived in Rome in good time for the Christmas dinner at

Palazzo Odescalchi, where they found the Terrys and Marion Crawford. On

December 31 our mother writes:--

"The last day of a year whose beginning found me full of work and

fatigue. Beginning for me in a Western railway car, it ends in a Roman

palace--a long stretch of travel lying between. Let me here record that

this year has brought me much good and pleasure, as well as some

regrets. My European tour was undertaken for dear Maud's sake. It took

me away from the dear ones at home, and from opportunities of work

which I should have prized highly. I was President of the Woman's

Congress, and to be absent not only from its meeting, but also from its

preparatory work, caused me great regret. On the other hand, I saw

delightful people in England, and have seen, besides the old remembered

delights, many places which I never visited before.... I am now with my

dear sister, around whom the shadows of existence deepen. I am glad to

be with her; though I can do so little for her, she is doing very much

for me."

This was a season of extraordinary interest to one who had always loved

Italy and pleaded for a generous policy toward her. Early in January it

became known that King Victor Emanuel was dying. At the Vatican his

life-long adversary Pius IX was wasting away with a mortal disease. It

was a time of suspense. The two had fought a long and obstinate duel:

which of them, people asked, would yield first to the conqueror on the

pale horse? There were those among the "Blacks" of Rome who would have

denied the last sacrament to the dying King. "No!" said Pio Nono; "he

has always been a good Catholic; he shall not die without the

sacrament!" On the 9th of January the King died, and "the ransomed land

mourned its sovereign as with one heart."[81]

[81] _Reminiscences_, p. 423.

"_January 12._ Have just been to see the new King [Umberto I] review the

troops, and receive the oath of allegiance from the army. The King's

horse was a fine light sorrel--he in full uniform, with light blue

trousers. In Piazza del Independenza. We at the American Consulate. Much

acclamation and waving of handkerchiefs. Went at 5 in the afternoon to

see the dead King lying in state. His body was shown set on an inclined

plane, the foreshortening disfigured his poor face dreadfully, making

his heavy moustache to look as if it were his eyebrows. Behind him a

beautiful ermine canopy reached nearly to the ceiling--below him the

crown and sceptre on a cushion. Castellani's beautiful gold crown is to

be buried with him."

She says of the funeral:--

"The monarch's remains were borne in a crimson coach of state, drawn by

six horses. His own favorite war-horse followed, veiled in crape, the

stirrups holding the King's boots and spurs, turned backward. Nobles and

servants of great houses in brilliant costumes, bareheaded, carrying in

their hands lighted torches of wax.... As the cortège swept by, I

dropped my tribute of flowers.[82]..."

[82] _Reminiscences_, p. 423.

"_January 19._ To Parliament, to see the mutual taking of oaths between

the new King and the Parliament. Had difficulty in getting in. Sat on

carpeted stair near Mrs. Carson. Queen came at two in the afternoon. Sat

in a loggia ornamented with red velvet and gold. Her entrance much

applauded. With her the little Prince of Naples,[83] her son; the Queen

of Portugal, her sister-in-law; and Prince of Portugal, son of the

latter. The King entered soon after two--he took the oath standing

bareheaded, then signed some record of it. The oath was then

administered to Prince Amadeo and Prince de Carignan, then in

alphabetical order to the Senate and afterwards to the Deputies."

[83] The present King, Victor Emanuel III.

A month later, Pio Nono laid down the burden of his years. She says of

this:--

"Pope Pius IX had reigned too long to be deeply mourned by his spiritual

subjects, one of whom remarked in answer to condolence, 'I should think

he had lived long enough!'"

The winter passed swift as a dream, though not without anxieties. Roman

fever was then the bane of American travellers, and while she herself

suffered only from a slight indisposition, Maud was seriously ill. There

was no time for her Journal, but some of the impressions of that

memorable season are recorded in verse.

Sea, sky, and moon-crowned mountain, one fair world,

Past, Present, Future, one Eternity.

Divine and human and informing soul,

The mystic Trine thought never can resolve.

One of the great pleasures of this Roman visit was the presence of her

nephew Francis Marion Crawford. He was then twenty-three years old, and

extremely handsome; some people thought him like the famous bas-relief

of Antinous at the Villa Albano. The most genial and companionable of

men, he devoted himself to his aunt and was her guide to the

_trattoria_ where Goethe used to dine, to Tasso's Oak, to the

innumerable haunts dedicated to the poets of every age, who have left

their impress on the Eternal City.

Our mother always loved acting. Her nearest approach to a professional

appearance took place this winter. Madame Ristori was in Rome, and had

promised to read at an entertainment in aid of some charity. She chose

for her selection the scene from "Maria Stuart" where the unhappy Queen

of Scots meets Elizabeth and after a fierce altercation triumphs over

her. At the last moment the lady who was to impersonate Elizabeth fell

ill. What was to be done? Some one suggested, "Mrs. Howe!" The

"Reminiscences" tell how she was "pressed into the service," and how the

last rehearsal was held while the musical part of the entertainment was

going on. "Madame Ristori made me repeat my part several times,

insisting that my manner was too reserved and would make hers appear

extravagant. I did my best to conform to her wishes, and the reading was

duly applauded."[84]

[84] _Reminiscences_, p. 425.

Another performance was arranged in which Madame Ristori gave the

sleep-walking scene from "Macbeth." The question arose as to who should

take the part of the attendant.

"Why not your sister?" said Ristori to Mrs. Terry. "No one could do it

better!"

In the spring, the travellers made a short tour in southern Italy. One

memory of it is given in the following verses:--

NEAR AMALFI

Hurry, hurry, little town,

With thy labor up and down.

Clang the forge and roll the wheels,

Spring the shuttle, twirl the reels.

Hunger comes.

Every woman with her hand

Shares the labor of the land;

Every child the burthen bears,

And the soil of labor wears.

Hunger comes.

In the shops of wine and oil

For the scanty house of toil;

Give just measure, housewife grave,

Thrifty shouldst thou be, and brave.

Hunger comes.

Only here the blind man lags,

Here the cripple, clothed with rags.

Such a motley Lazarus

Shakes his piteous cap at us.

Hunger comes.

Oh! could Jesus pass this way

Ye should have no need to pray.

He would go on foot to see

All your depths of misery.

Succor comes.

He would smooth your frowzled hair,

He would lay your ulcers bare,

He would heal as only can

Soul of God in heart of man.

Jesus comes.

Ah! my Jesus! still thy breath

Thrills the world untouched of death.

Thy dear doctrine showeth me

Here, God's loved humanity

Whose kingdom comes.

The summer was spent in France; in November they sailed for Egypt.

"_November 27, Egypt._ Land early this morning--a long flat strip at

first visible. Then Arabs in a boat came on board. Then began a scene of

unparalleled confusion, in the midst of which Cook's Arabian agent found

me and got my baggage--helping us all through quietly, and with great

saving of trouble.... A drive to see Pompey's Pillar and obelisk. A walk

through the bazaar. Heat very oppressive. Delightful drive in the

afternoon to the Antonayades garden and villa.... Mr. Antonayades was

most hospitable, gave us great bouquets, and a basket of fruit."

"_Cairo._ Walked out. A woman swung up and down in a box is

brown-washing the wall of the hotel. She was drawn up to the top, quite

a height, and gradually let down. Her dress was a dirty blue cotton

gown, and under that a breech-cloth of dirty sackcloth. We were to have

had an audience from the third Princess[85] this afternoon, and were

nearly dressed for the palace when we were informed that the reception

would take place to-morrow, when there will be a general reception, it

being the first day of Bairam. Visit on donkey-back to the bazaars, and

gallop; sunset most beautiful."

[85] The favorite wife of the Khedive.

"Up early, and all agog for the palace. I wore my black velvet and all

my [few] diamonds, also a white bonnet made by Julia McAllister[86] and

trimmed with her lace and Miss Irwin's white lilacs. General Stone sent

his carriage with _sais_ richly dressed. Reception was at Abdin

Palace--row of black eunuchs outside, very grimy in aspect. Only women

inside--dresses of bright pink and yellow satin, of orange silk, blue,

lilac, white satin. Lady in waiting in blue silk and diamonds. In the

hall they made us sit down, and brought us cigarettes in gilt saucers.

We took a whiff, then went to the lady in waiting who took us into the

room where the three princesses were waiting to receive us. They shook

hands with us and made us sit down, seating themselves also. First and

second Princesses on a sofa, I at their right in a fauteuil, on my left

the third Princess. First in white brocaded satin, pattern very bright,

pink flowers with green leaves. Second wore a Worth dress of corn

brocade, trimmed with claret velvet; third in blue silk. All in

stupendous diamonds. Chibouks brought which reached to the floor. We

smoke, I poorly,--mine was badly lighted,--an attendant in satin brought

a fresh coal and then the third Princess told me it was all right.

Coffee in porcelain cups, the stands all studded with diamonds.

Conversation rather awkward. Carried on by myself and the third

Princess, who interpreted to the others. Where should we go from Cairo?

Up the Nile, in January to Constantinople."

[86] A cousin who was of the party.

"Achmed took me to see the women dance, in a house where a wedding is

soon to take place. Dancing done by a one-eyed woman in purple and gold

brocade--house large, but grimy with dirt and neglect. Men all in one

room, women in another--several of them one-eyed, the singer blind--only

instruments the earthenware drum and castanets worn like rings on the

upper joints of the fingers. Arab café--the story-teller, the

one-stringed violin...."

"To the ball at the Abdin Palace. The girls looked charmingly. Maud

danced all the night. The Khedive[87] made me quite a speech. He is a

short, thickset man, looking about fifty, with grizzled hair and beard.

He wore a fez, Frank dress, and a star on his breast. Tewfik Pasha, his

son and heir, was similarly dressed. Consul Farman presented me to both

of them. The suite of rooms is very handsome, but this is not the finest

of the Khedive's palaces. Did not get home much before four in the

morning. In the afternoon had visited the mosque of Sultan Abdul

Hassan...."

[87] Ismail Pasha.

After Cairo came a trip up the Nile, with all its glories and

discomforts. Between marvel and marvel she read Herodotus and Mariette

Bey assiduously.

"_Christmas Day._ Cool wind. Native _reis_ of the boat has a brown

woollen capote over his blue cotton gown, the hood drawn over his

turban. A Christmas service. Rev. Mr. Stovin, English, read the lessons

for the day and the litany. We sang 'Nearer, my God, to Thee,' and

'Hark, the herald angels sing.' It was a good little time. My thoughts

flew back to Theodore Parker, who loved this [first] hymn, and in whose

'meeting' I first heard it. Upper deck dressed with palms--waiters in

their best clothes...."

"To-day visited Assiout, where we arrived soon after ten in the morning.

Donkey-ride delightful, visit to the bazaar. Two very nice youths found

us out, pupils of the American Mission. One of these said, 'I also am

Christianity.' Christian pupils more than one hundred. Several Moslem

pupils have embraced Christianity.... This morning had a very sober

season, lying awake before dawn, and thinking over this extravagant

journey, which threatens to cause me serious embarrassment."

And again:--

"The last day of a year in which I have enjoyed many things, wonderful

new sights and impressions, new friends. I have not been able to do much

useful work, but hope to do better work hereafter for what this year has

shown me. Still, I have spoken four times in public, each time with

labor and preparation--and have advocated the causes of woman's

education, equal rights and equal laws for men and women. My heart

greatly regrets that I have not done better, during these twelve months.

Must always hope for the new year."

The record of the new year (1879) begins with the usual aspirations:--

"May every minute of this year be improved by me! This is too much to

hope, but not too much to pray for. And I determine this year to pass no

day without actual prayer, the want of which I have felt during the year

just past. Busy all day, writing, washing handkerchiefs, and reading

Herodotus."

On January 2, she "visited Blind School with General Stone--Osny

Effendi, Principal. Many trades and handicrafts--straw matting,

boys--boys and girls weaving at hand loom--girls spinning wool and

flax, crochet and knitting--a lesson in geography. Turning lathe--bought

a cup of rhinoceros horn."

On January 4 she is "sad to leave Egypt--dear beautiful country!"

"_Jerusalem, January 5._ I write in view of the Mount of Olives, which

glows in the softest sunset light, the pale moon showing high in the

sky. Christ has been here--here--has looked with his bodily eyes on this

fair prospect. The thought ought to be overpowering--is inconceivable."

"_January 9._ In the saddle by half past eight in the morning. Rode two

hours, to Bethlehem. Convent--Catholic. Children at the school. Boy with

a fine head, Abib. In the afternoon mounted again and rode in sight of

the Dead Sea. Mountains inexpressibly desolate and grand. Route very

rough, and in some places rather dangerous.... Grotto of the

Nativity--place of the birth--manger where the little Christ was laid.

Tomb of St. Jerome. Tombs of two ladies who were friends of the Saint.

Later the plains of Boaz, which also [is] that where the shepherds heard

the angels. Encamped at Marsaba. Greek convent near by receives men

only. An old monk brought some of the handiwork of the brethren for

sale. I bought a stamp for flat cakes, curiously cut in wood. We dined

luxuriously, having a saloon tent and an excellent cook.... Good beds,

but I lay awake a good deal with visions of death from the morrow's

ride."

"_January 10._ [In camp in the desert near Jericho.] 'Shoo-fly'[88]

waked us at half past five banging on a tin pan and singing 'Shoo-fly.'

We rose at once and I felt my terrors subside. Felt that only prayer and

trust in God could carry me through. We were in the saddle by seven

o'clock and began our perilous crossing of the hills which lead to the

Dead Sea. Scenery inexpressibly grand and desolate. Some frightful bits

of way--narrow bridle paths up and down very steep places, in one place

a very narrow ridge to cross, with precipices on either side. I prayed

constantly and so felt uplifted from the abjectness of animal fear.

After a while we began to have glimpses of the Dead Sea, which is

beautifully situated, shut in by high hills, quite blue in color. After

much mental suffering and bodily fatigue on my part we arrived at the

shores of the sea. Here we rested for half an hour, and I lay stretched

on the sands which were very clean and warm! Remounted and rode to

Jordan. Here, I had to be assisted by two men [they lifted her bodily

out of the saddle and laid her on the ground] and lay on my shawl,

eating my luncheon in this attitude. Fell asleep here. Could not stop

long enough to touch the water. We rested in the shade of a clump of

bushes, near the place where the baptism of Christ is supposed to have

taken place. Our cans were filled with water from this sacred stream,

and I picked up a little bit of hollow reed, the only souvenir I could

find. Remounted and rode to Jericho. Near the banks of the Jordan we met

a storm of locusts, four-winged creatures which annoyed our horses and

flew in our faces. John the Baptist probably ate such creatures.

Afternoon ride much better as to safety, but very fatiguing. Reached

Jericho just after sunset, a beautiful camping-ground. After dinner, a

Bedouin dance, very strange and fierce. Men and women stood in a

semicircle, lighted by a fire of dry thorns. They clapped their hands

and sang, or rather murmured, in a rhythm which changed from time to

time. A chief danced before them, very gracefully, threatening them with

his sword, with which he played very skilfully. They sometimes went on

their knees as if imploring him to spare them. He came twice to our tent

and waved the sword close to our heads, saying, '_Taih backsheesh_.' The

dance was like an Indian war-dance--the chief made a noise just like the

war-whoop of our Indians. The dance lasted half an hour. The chief got

his backsheesh and the whole troop departed. Lay down and rested in

peace, knowing that the dangerous part of our journey was over."

[88] A negro attendant.

"_In Camp in the Desert. January 11._ In the saddle by half past seven.

Rode round the site of ancient Jericho, of which nothing remains but

some portions of the king's highway. Ruins of a caravanserai, which is

said to be the inn where the good Samaritan lodged his patient. Stopped

for rest and luncheon, at Beth--and proceeded to Bethany, where we

visited the tomb of Lazarus. I did not go in--then rode round the Mount

of Olives and round the walls of Jerusalem, arriving at half past three

in the afternoon. I became very stiff in my knees, could hardly be

mounted on my horse, and suffered much pain from my knee and abrasions

of the skin caused by the saddle. Did not get down at the tomb of

Lazarus because I could not have descended the steps which led to it,

and could not have got on my horse again. When we reached our hotel, I

could not step without help, and my strength was quite exhausted. I say

to all tourists, avoid Cook's dreadful hurry, and to all women, avoid

Marsaba! This last day, we often met little troops of Bedouins

travelling on donkeys--sometimes carrying with them their cattle and

household goods. I saw a beautiful white and black lamb carried on a

donkey. Met three Bedouin horsemen with long spears. One of these

stretched his spear across the way almost touching my face, for a joke."

"_Jerusalem. Sunday, January 12._ English service. Communion,

interesting here where the rite was instituted. I was very thankful for

this interesting opportunity."

"_January 15._ Mission hospital and schools in the morning. Also

Saladin's horse. Wailing place of the Jews and some ancient synagogues.

In the afternoon walked to Gethsemane and ascended the Mount of Olives.

In the first-named place, sang one verse of our hymn, 'Go to dark

Gethsemane.' Got some flowers and olive leaves...."

After Jerusalem came Jaffa, where she delivered an address to a "circle"

at a private house. She says:--

"In Jaffa of the Crusaders, Joppa of Peter and Paul, I find an American

Mission School, kept by a worthy lady from Rhode Island. Prominent among

its points of discipline is the clean-washed face, which is so enthroned

in the prejudices of Western civilization. One of her scholars, a youth

of unusual intelligence, finding himself clean, observes himself to be

in strong contrast with his mother's hovel, in which filth is just kept

clear of fever point. 'Why this dirt?' quoth he; 'that which has made me

clean will cleanse this also.' So without more ado, the process of

scrubbing is applied to the floor, without regard to the danger of so

great a novelty. This simple fact has its own significance, for if the

innovation of soap and water can find its way to a Jaffa hut, where can

the ancient, respectable, conservative dirt-devil feel himself secure?"

Apropos of mission work (in which she was a firm believer), she loved to

tell how one day in Jerusalem she was surrounded by a mob of beggars,

unwashed and unsavory, clamoring for money, till she was well-nigh

bewildered. Suddenly there appeared a beautiful youth in spotless white,

who scattered the mob, took her horse's bridle, and in good English

offered to lead her to her hotel. It was as if an angel had stepped into

the narrow street.

"Who are you, dear youth?" she cried.

"I am a Christian!" was the reply.

In parting she says, "Farewell, Holy Land! Thank God that I have seen

and felt it! All good come to it!"

From Palestine the way led to Cyprus ("the town very muddy and bare of

all interest") and Smyrna, thence to Constantinople. Here she visited

Robert College with great delight. Returning, she saw the "Sultan going

to Friday's prayers. A melancholy, frightened-looking man, pale, with a

large, face-absorbing nose...."

"_February 3._ Early at Piræus. Kalopothakis[89] met us there, coming on

board.... To Athens by carriage. Acropolis as beautiful as ever. It

looks small after the Egyptian temples, and of course more modern--still

very impressive...."

[89] A Greek Protestant minister.

Athens, with its welcoming faces of friends, seemed almost homelike

after the Eastern journeyings. The Journal tells of sight-seeing for the

benefit of the younger traveller, and of other things beside.

"Called on the _Grande Maîtresse_ at the Palace in order to have cards

for the ball. Saw the Schliemann relics from Mycenæ, and the wonderful

marbles gathered in the Museum. Have been writing something about these.

To ball at the palace in my usual sober rig, black velvet and so forth.

Queen very gracious to us.... Home by three in the morning."

"_February 12._ At ten in the morning came a committee of Cretan

officers of the late insurrection, presenting a letter through Mr.

Rainieri, himself a Cretan, expressing the gratitude of the Cretans to

dear Papa for his efforts in their behalf.... Mr. Rainieri made a

suitable address in French--to which I replied in the same tongue.

Coffee and cordial were served. The occasion was of great interest....

In the afternoon spoke at Mrs. Felton's of the Advancement of Women as

promoted by association. An American dinner of perhaps forty, nearly all

women, Greek, but understanding English. A good occasion. To party at

Madame Schliemann's."

"_February 15._ Miserable with a cold. A confused day in which nothing

seemed to go right. Kept losing sight of papers and other things. Felt

as if God could not have made so bad a day--my day after all; I made

it."

"_February 18._ To ball at the Palace. King took Maud out in the

German."

"_February 21._ The day for eating the roast lamb with the Cretan

chiefs. Went down to the Piræus warmly wrapped up.... Occasion most

interesting. Much speech-making and toasting. I mentioned Felton."

"_February 22._ Dreadful day of departure. Packed steadily but with

constant interruptions. The Cretans called upon me to present their

photographs and take leave. Tried a poem, failed. Had black

coffee--tried another--succeeded...."

"_February 23._ Sir Henry Layard, late English minister to the Porte, is

on board. Talked Greek at dinner--beautiful evening--night as rough as

it could well be. Little sleep for any of us. Glad to see that Lord

Hartington has spoken in favor of the Greeks, censuring the English

Government."

"_February 26...._ Sir Henry Layard and I _tête-à-tête_ on deck, looking

at the prospect--he coveting it, no doubt, for his rapacious country, I

coveting it for liberty and true civilization."

The spring was spent in Italy. In May they came to London.

"_May 29._ Met Mr. William Speare.... He told me of his son's death, and

of that of William Lloyd Garrison. Gallant old man, unique and enviable

in reputation and character. Who, oh! who can take his place? 'Show us

the Father.'"

The last weeks of the London visit were again too full for any adequate

account of them to find its way into her letters or journals. She

visited London once more in later years, but this was her last long

stay. She never forgot the friends she made there, and it was one of the

many day-dreams she enjoyed that she should return for another London

season. Sometimes after reading the account of the gay doings chronicled

in the London "World," which Edmund Yates sent her as long as he lived,

she would cry out, "O! for a whiff of London!" or, "My dear, we must

have another London season before I die!"

CHAPTER III

NEWPORT

1879-1882; _aet._ 60-63

A THOUGHT FOR WASHING DAY

The clothes-line is a Rosary

Of household help and care;

Each little saint the Mother loves

Is represented there.

And when across her garden plot

She walks, with thoughtful heed,

I should not wonder if she told

Each garment for a bead.

* * * * *

A stranger passing, I salute

The Household in its wear,

And smile to think how near of kin

Are love and toil and prayer.

J. W. H.

July, 1879, found our mother at home at Oak Glen, unpacking trunks and

reading a book on the Talmud. She had met the three married daughters in

Boston ("We talked incessantly for seven hours," says the Journal), and

Florence and Maud accompanied her to Newport, where Florence had

established her summer nursery. There were three Hall grandchildren now,

and they became an important factor in the life at Oak Glen. All through

the records of these summer days runs the patter of children's feet.

She kept only one corner of the house for her private use; a room with

the north light which she then thought essential. This was at once

bedroom and workroom: she never had a separate study or library. Here,

as in Green Peace days, she worked quietly and steadily. Children and

grandchildren might fill the house, might have everything it contained:

she asked only for her "precious time." When she could not have an hour

she took half an hour, a quarter, ten minutes. No fragment of time was

too small for her to save, to invest in study or in work; and as her

mind concentrated instantly on the subject in hand, no such fragment was

wasted. The rule of mind over body was relentless: sick or well, she

must finish her stint before the day closed.

This summer of 1879 was a happy one. After the feverish months of travel

and pleasure, her delight in the soft Newport climate was deeper than

ever. She always felt the change from the air of the mainland to that of

the island, and never crossed the bridge from Tiverton to Bristol Ferry

without an exclamation of pleasure. She used to say that the soft, cool

air of Newport smoothed out the tired, tangled nerves "like a silver

comb"!

"_July 29._ To my Club, where, better than any ovation, an affectionate

greeting awaited me.... Thucydides is very difficult."

This was the Town and Country Club, for some years a great interest to

her. In her "Reminiscences" she tells how in a summer of the late

sixties or early seventies, when Bret Harte and Dr. J. G. Holland,

Professors Lane and Goodwin of Harvard were spending the season at

Newport: "A little band of us combined to improve the beautiful summer

season by picnics, sailing parties, and household soirées, in all of

which these brilliant literary lights took part. Helen Hunt and Kate

Field were often of our company, and Colonel Higginson was always with

us."

* * * * *

Among the frolics of that summer was the mock Commencement, arranged by

her and Professor Lane.

"I acted as President, Colonel Higginson as my aide; we both marched up

the aisle in Oxford caps and gowns. I opened the proceedings by an

address in Latin, Greek, and English; and when I turned to Colonel

Higginson and called him '_fili mihi dilectissime_,' he wickedly replied

with three bows of such comic gravity that I almost gave way to

unbecoming laughter. Not long before this he had published a paper on

the Greek goddesses. I therefore assigned as his theme the problem, 'How

to sacrifice an Irish bull to a Greek goddess.' Colonel George Waring,

the well-known engineer, being at that time in charge of a valuable farm

in the neighborhood, was invited to discuss 'Social small potatoes: how

to enlarge their eyes.' An essay on rhinoscopy was given by Fanny Fern,

the which I, chalk in hand, illustrated on the blackboard by the

following equation:--

"Nose + nose + nose = proboscis.

Nose - nose - nose = snub.

"A class was called upon for recitations from Mother Goose in seven

different languages. At the head of this Professor Goodwin honored us

with a Greek version of the 'Man in the Moon.' A recent Harvard

graduate, Dr. Gorham Bacon, recited the following, also of her

composition:--

"'Heu iterum didulum,

Felis cum fidulum,

Vacca transiluit lunam,

Caniculus ridet,

Quum tale videt,

Et dish ambulavit cum spoonam.'

"The question being asked whether this last line was in strict

accordance with grammar, the scholar gave the following rule: 'The

conditions of grammar should always give way to the exigencies of

rhyme.'

"The delicious fooling of that unique summer was never repeated. Out of

it came, however, the more serious and permanent association known as

the Town and Country Club of Newport. I felt the need of upholding the

higher social ideals and of not leaving true culture unrepresented, even

in a summer watering-place."

With the help and advice of Professor and Mrs. William B. Rogers,

Colonel Higginson and Mr. Samuel Powell, a number of friends were called

together in the early summer of 1874 and she laid before them the plan

of the proposed club. After speaking of the growing predominance of the

gay and fashionable element in Newport society, she said:--

"But some things can be done as well as others. Newport ... has also

treasures which are still unexplored....

"The milliner and the mantua-maker bring here their costly goods and

tempt the eye with forms and colors. But the great artist, Nature, has

here merchandise far more precious, whose value and beauty are

understood by few of us. I remember once meeting a philosopher in a

jeweller's shop. The master of the establishment exhibited to us his

choicest wares, among others a costly diamond ornament. The philosopher

[we think it was Emerson] said, 'A violet is more beautiful.' I cannot

forget the disgust expressed in the jeweller's face at this remark."

She then outlined the course laid out by the "Friends in Council,"

lectures on astronomy, botany, natural history, all by eminent persons.

They would not expect the Club to meet them on their own ground. They

would come to that of their hearers, and would unfold to them what they

were able to understand.

Accordingly, Weir Mitchell discoursed to them on the Poison of Serpents,

John La Farge on the South Sea Islands, Alexander Agassiz on Deep-Sea

Dredging and the Panama Canal; while Mark Twain and "Hans Breitmann"

made merry, each in his own inimitable fashion.

The Town and Country Club had a long and happy career. No matter what

heavy work she might have on hand for the summer, no sooner arrived at

Newport than our mother called together her Governing Committee and

planned out the season's meetings.

It may have been for this Club that she wrote her "Parlor Macbeth," an

extravaganza in which she appeared as "the impersonation of the whole

Macbeth family."

In the prologue she says:--

"As it is often said and supposed that a woman is at the bottom of all

the mischief that is done under the sun, I appear and say that I am she,

that woman, the female fate of the Macbeth family."

In the monologue that follows, Lady Macbeth fairly lives before the

audience, and in amazing travesty relates the course of the drama.

She thus describes the visit of the weird sisters (the three Misses

Macbeth) who have been asked to contribute some of "their excellent

hell-broth and devilled articles" for her party.

"At 12 M., a rushing and bustling was heard, and down the kitchen

chimney tumbled the three weird sisters, finding everything ready for

their midnight operations.... 'That hussy of a Macbeth's wife leaves us

nothing to work with,' cried one. 'She makes double trouble for us.'

'Double trouble, double trouble,' they all cried and groaned in chorus,

and presently fell into a sort of trilogy of mingled prose and verse

which was enough to drive one mad.

'Where hast thou been?

Sticking pigs.

And where hast thou?

Why, curling wigs

Fit for a shake in German jigs

And hoo! carew! carew!'

* * * * *

"'We must have Hecate now, can't do without her. Throw the beans over

the broomstick and say boo!' And lo, Hecate comes, much like the others,

only rather more so....

"Now they began to work in good earnest. And they had brought with them

whole bottles of _sunophon_, and _sozodont_, and _rypophagon_, and

_hyperbolism_ and _consternaculum_, and a few others. And in the whole

went. And one stirred the great pot over the fire, while the others

danced around and sang--

"'Black pepper and red,

White pepper and grey,

Tingle, tingle, tingle, tingle,

Till it smarts all day.'

"'Here's dyspepsia! Here's your racking headache of a morning. Here's

podagra, and jaundice, and a few fits. And now it's done to a turn, and

the weird sisters have done what they could for the family.'

"A rumbling and tumbling and foaming was now heard in the chimney--the

bricks opened, and He-cat and She-cat and all the rest of them went up.

And I knew that my supper would be first-rate."

The time came when some of the other officers of the Town and Country

Club felt unable to keep the pace set by her. She would still press

forward, but they hung back, feeling the burden of the advancing years

which sat so lightly on her shoulders. The Club was disbanded; its fund

of one thousand dollars, so honorably earned, was given to the Redwood

Library, one of the old institutions of Newport.

The Town and Country Club was succeeded by the Papéterie, a smaller club

of ladies only, more intimate in its character. The exchange of "paper

novels" furnished its name and its _raison d'être_. The members were

expected to describe the books taken home from the previous meeting.

"What have you to tell us of the novel you have been reading?" the

president would demand. Then followed a report, serious or comic, as the

character of the volume or the mood of the meeting suggested. A series

of abbreviated criticisms was made and a glossary prepared: for

example,--

"B. P.--By the pound.

M. A. S.--May amuse somebody.

P. B.--Pot-boiler.

F. W. B.--For waste-basket.

U. I.--Uplifting influence.

W. D.--Wholly delightful.

U. T.--Utter trash."

The officers consisted of the Glossarian, the Penologist, whose duty it

was to invent penalties for delinquents, the Cor. Sec. and the Rec. Sec.

(corresponding and recording secretaries) and the Archivist, who had

charge of the archives. During its early years a novel was written by

the Club, each member writing one chapter. It still exists, and part of

the initiation of a new member consists in reading the manuscript. The

"delicious fooling" that marked the first year of the Town and Country

Club's existence was the animating spirit of the Papéterie. A friend

christened it "Mrs. Howe's Vaudeville." Merrymaking was her

safety-valve. Brain fag and nervous prostration were practically unknown

to her. When she had worked to the point of exhaustion, she turned to

play. Fun and frolic went along with labor and prayer; the power of

combining these kept her steadily at her task till the end of her life.

The last time she left her house, six days before her death, it was to

preside at the Papéterie, where she was as usual the life of the

meeting! The Club still lives, and, like the New England Woman's Club,

seems still pervaded by her spirit.

The Clubs did not have all the fun. The Newport "Evening Express" of

September 2, 1881, says: "Mrs. Julia Ward Howe has astonished Newport by

her acting in 'False Colors.' But she always was a surprising woman."

Another newspaper says: "The interest of the Newport world has been

divided this week between the amateur theatricals at the Casino and the

lawn tennis tournament. Two representations of the comedy of 'False

Colors' were given on Tuesday and Wednesday evenings.... The stars were

undoubtedly Mrs. Julia Ward Howe and Mr. Peter Marié, who brought down

the house by their brightness and originality.... Mr. Peter Marié gave a

supper on the last night of the performance, during which he proposed

the health of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe and the thanks of the company for her

valuable assistance. Mrs. Howe's reply was very bright and apt, and her

playful warnings of the dangers of sailing under false colors were fully

appreciated."

It is remembered that of all the gay company she was the only one who

was letter-perfect in her part.

To return to 1879. She preached many times this summer in and around

Newport.

"_Sunday, September 28._ Hard at work. Could not look at my sermon until

this day. Corrected my reply to Parkman.[90] Had a very large audience

for the place--all seats full and benches put in."

[90] Francis Parkman had written an article opposing woman suffrage.

"My sermon at the Unitarian Church in Newport. A most unexpected crowd

to hear me."

"_September 29._ Busy with preparing the dialogue in 'Alice in

Wonderland' for the Town and Country Club occasion...."

Many entries begin with "hard at work," or "very busy all day."

This summer was made delightful by a visit from her sister Louisa, with

her husband[91] and daughter. Music formed a large part of the summer's

pleasure. The Journal tells of a visit from Timothée Adamowski which was

greatly enjoyed.

[91] Luther Terry, an American painter who had lived long in Rome, and

had been a close friend of Thomas Crawford. He survived his wife by some

years.

"_October 11._ Much delightful music. Adamowski has made a pleasant

impression upon all of us."

"_October 12, Sunday._ Sorry to say we made music all day. Looked hard

for Uncle Sam, who came not."

"_October 13._ Our delightful matinée. Adamowski and Daisy played

finely, he making a great sensation. I had the pleasure of accompanying

Adamowski in a Nocturne of Chopin's for violin and piano. All went well.

Our pleasure and fatigue were both great. The house looked charming."

In the autumn came a lecture tour, designed to recoup the heavy expenses

of the Eastern trip. Never skilful in matters of money-making, this tour

was undertaken with less preparation than the modern lecturer could well

imagine. She corresponded with one and another Unitarian clergyman and

arranged her lectures largely through them. Though she did not bring

back so much money as many less popular speakers, she was, after all,

her own mistress, and was not rushed through the country like a letter

by ambitious managers.

The Journal gives some glimpses of this trip.

"Twenty minutes to dress, sup, and get to the hall. Swallowed a cup of

tea and nibbled a biscuit as I dressed myself."

"Found the miserablest railroad hotel, where I waited all day for trunk,

in distress!... Had to lecture without either dress or manuscript. Mrs.

Blank hastily arrayed me in her black silk, and I had fortunately a few

notes."

She never forgot this lesson, and in all the thirty-odd years of

speaking and lecturing that remained, made it an invariable rule to

travel with her lecture and her cap and laces in her handbag. As she

grew older, the satchel grew lighter. She disliked all personal service,

and always wanted to carry her hand-luggage herself. The light palm-leaf

knapsack she brought from Santo Domingo was at the end replaced by a

net, the lightest thing she could find.

The Unitarian Church in Newport was second in her heart only to the

Church of the Disciples. The Reverend Charles T. Brooks, the pastor, was

her dear friend. In the spring of 1880 a Channing memorial celebration

was held in Newport, for which she wrote a poem. She sat on the platform

near Mr. Emerson, heard Dr. Bellows's discourse on Channing, "which was

exhaustive, and as it lasted two hours, exhausting." The exercises, W.

H. Channing's eulogium, etc., etc., lasted through the day and evening,

and in the intervals between addresses she was "still retouching" her

poem, which came last of all. "A great day!" says the Journal.

"_July 23._ Very busy all day. Rainy weather. In the evening I had a

mock meeting, with burlesque papers, etc. I lectured on _Ism-Is-not-m_,

on _Asm-spasm-plasm_."

"_July 24._ Working hard, as usual. Marionettes at home in the evening.

Laura had written the text. Maud was Julius Cæsar; Flossy, Cassius;

Daisy, Brutus."

"_July 28._ Read my lecture on 'Modern Society' in the Hillside Chapel

at Concord.... The comments of Messrs. Alcott and W. H. Channing were

quite enough to turn a sober head."

"To the poorhouse and to Jacob Chase's with Joseph Coggeshall. Old

Elsteth, whom I remember these many years, died a few weeks ago. One of

the pauper women who has been there a long time told me that Elsteth

cried out that she was going to Heaven, and that she gave her, as a last

gift, a red handkerchief. Mrs. Anna Brown, whom I saw last year, died

recently. Her relatives are people in good position and ought to have

provided for her in her declining years. They came, in force, to her

funeral and had a very nice coffin for her. Took her body away for

burial. Such meanness needs no comment.

"Jacob was glad to see me. Asked after Maud and doubted whether she was

as handsome as I was when he first saw me (thirty or more years ago).

His wife said to me in those days: 'Jacob thinks thee's the only

good-looking woman in these parts.' She was herself a handsome woman and

a very sweet one. I wish I had known I was so good-looking."

Of the writing of letters there was no end. Correspondence was rather a

burden than a delight to her; yet, when all the "duty letters" were

written, she loved to take a fresh sheet and frolic with some one of her

absent children. Laura, being the furthest removed, received perhaps

more than her share of these letters; yet, as will appear from them, she

never had enough.

_To Laura_

OAK GLEN, October 10, 1880.

DEAREST, DEAREST L. E. R.,--

How I wonder how you R! Cause of silence not hardness of heart, but the

given necessity of scribbling for dear life, to finish a promised paper

for the Woman's Congress, _sedebit_ next week. I in Boston Wed., Thurs.,

and Fri.--day being understood. Mowski [Adamowski] left us yesterday

morning.... We had him here a fortnight, and enjoyed his visit

extremely. At table, between the courses, he played on every instrument

of the orchestra. I asked once for the bass drum, which he imitated,

adding thereunto the cymbals. We had a lunch party last week, for the

bride, Maud Appleton, and "invited quite fashionable," and after all

she didn't come. "Sick in bed with diphtheria." May by some be

considered an excuse, but then, it's very rude to be sick, and it's very

troublesome to other people. (This to make you feel badly about your own

shortcomings.) We had a little dance, too, on Friday evening. An omnibus

party came out and a few others. I pounded the Lancers and some ancient

waltzes and polkas, ending with the Virginia reel, in which last I

thought my floor would give way, the young men stamped so. I have no

paper left except some newspaper wrappers, so can't write any more. Got

up and found this scrap, then hunted for my pen, which, after some

search, I found in my mouth. This is what it is to be lit'ry. Oh, my! I

sometimes wish I wasn't!...

In October, while visiting Julia at the Institution, she missed her

footing and fell down the two steps leading to the dining-room, breaking

the ligaments of her knee. A letter to Laura makes the first mention of

this serious accident, whose effects she felt all her life.

OAK GLEN, November 9, 1880.

DEAREST LAURA CHILD,--

Behold the mum-jacket, sitting clothed and in her chair, confronting you

after long silence, with comforting words of recovery. I am now in the

fourth week of my infirmity, and I really think that the offending, or

rather offended, muscles have almost recovered their natural power of

contraction. My exercise is still restricted to a daily walk from my bed

in the small parlor to my chair in the large parlor, and back again.

But this walk, which at first was an impotent limp, with bones clicking

loosely, is now a very respectable performance, not on the tight rope,

indeed, but, let us say, on the tight garter.... The only break in the

general uniformity of my life was dear Uncle Sam's arrival on Sunday

last. He remained with us a couple of hours, and was as delightful as

ever. Oh! more news. With his kind help, I have taken Mrs. Lodge's small

house for the winter and this opens to me a comfortable prospect,

though, even with his help, the two ends will have to be pulled a little

in order to meet....

The furnished house in lower Mount Vernon Street proved a pleasant

habitat. It was nine years since she had had a house in Boston; in spite

of her lameness, perhaps partly because of it, she enjoyed entertaining

her family and friends. Mrs. Terry and her daughter spent part of the

winter with them.

The year 1880 was marked by the publication of her first book since

"Later Lyrics": a tiny volume entitled "Modern Society," containing,

beside the title essay, a kindred one on "Changes in American Society."

The Journal makes little or no mention of this booklet, but Thomas

Wentworth Higginson says of it: "It would be hard to find a book in

American literature better worth reprinting and distributing.... In wit,

in wisdom, in anecdote, I know few books so racy."

"_January 1, 1881._ I have now been lame for twelve weeks, in

consequence of a bad fall which I had on October 17. I am still on

crutches with my left knee in a splint. Have had much valuable leisure

in consequence of this, but have suffered much inconvenience and

privation of preaching, social intercourse, etc. Very little pain since

the first ten days. Farewell, Old Year! Thank the Heavenly Father for

many joys, comforts and opportunities."

Her physician insisted upon her keeping quiet, but she could not obey

him, and continued to travel about on crutches to keep her many

engagements. Her faithful coachman, Frank McCarthy, was her companion on

these journeys.

"_January 26._ Busy most of the day with my lecture. Had a visit from H.

P. B.,[92] who advised me to keep still and go nowhere until my lameness

shall be much better. Took 4.30 train for Concord, Massachusetts. Maud

would go with me, which grieved me, as she thereby lost a brilliant

ball.... We went to Mr. Cheney's, where we found Frank Barlow, a little

older, but quite unchanged as to character, etc. He has the endearing

coquetry of a woman. Dear Mr. Emerson and Mrs. came to my lecture. Mr.

E. said that he liked it. The audience was very attentive throughout.

Stepped only once on my lame foot in getting into the sleigh...."

[92] Dr. H. P. Beach.

"_January 28._ Busy all day with my address for woman's suffrage meeting

in the evening.... When I entered with my crutches the audience

applauded quite generally.... Wendell Phillips made the concluding

speech of the evening. He was less brilliant than usual, and kept

referring to what I had said. I thanked him for this afterwards, and he

said that my speech had spoiled his own; that I had taken up the very

points upon which he had intended to dwell."

"_February 11._ Lecture at Groton, Massachusetts. As I went down the

steps to the carriage, one of my crutches slipped and the careless

hackman on my right let me fall, Frank catching me, but not until I had

given my knee a severe wrench which gave me great pain. I suffered much

in my travel, but got through, Frank helping me.... My knee seemed much

inflamed and kept me awake much of the night. My lecture on 'Polite

Society' was well received. The good people of the house brought me

their new ledger, that my name might be the first recorded in it."

"_February 12._ Dinner of Merchants' Club. Edward Atkinson invites me.

Got back by early train, 7.50 A.M., feeling poorly. Did not let Maud

know of my hurt. Went to the dinner mentioned above, which was at the

Vendôme.... Was taken in to dinner by the President, Mr. Fitz. Robert

Collyer had the place on my right. He was delightful as ever. Edward

Everett Hale sat near me and talked with me from time to time. Of course

my speech afflicted me. I got through it, however, but had to lose the

other speeches, the hour being so late and the night so inclement, very

rainy."

"_February 20._ Very lame this morning. No courage to try to go out.

Have been busy with Kant and Miss Cobbe's new book, 'Duties of Women,'

which I am reviewing for the 'Christian Register.'..."

_To Laura_

129 MOUNT VERNON STREET,

February 27, 1881.

MY DEAREST LAURA,--

... Mr. Longfellow came to see us yesterday, and told us his curious

dreams. In one of them, he went to London and found James Russell Lowell

_keeping a grocery._ In another, people were vituperating the bad

weather, and dear Papa said: "Remember, gentlemen, who makes it!" This

impressed us as very characteristic of our dear one. My lameness is

decreasing very slowly, and I have now been a week without the splint.

The knee, however, still swells if I attempt to use it, and my life is

still much restricted as to movement....

"_February 28...._ A cloud seems to lift itself from that part of my

mind which concerns, or should concern, itself with spiritual things.

Sometimes a strong unwillen seizes me in this direction. I feel in

myself no capacity to comprehend any features of the unseen world. My

belief in it does not change, but my imagination refuses to act upon the

basis of the 'things not seen.'"

"_March 5._ Longfellow to dine."

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