[Illustration: ABA, VILLAGE OF THE SHILLOOK NEGROES.]
CENTRAL AFRICA
BAYARD TAYLOR.
[Illustration: The Ethiopian Nile.
Bayard Taylor del.]
NEW-YORK: G. P. PUTNAM.
A
JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA;
OR,
LIFE AND LANDSCAPES FROM EGYPT
TO THE NEGRO KINGDOMS OF
THE WHITE NILE.
BY BAYARD TAYLOR.
_WITH A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR._
NEW YORK:
G. P. PUTNAM AND SON, 661 BROADWAY,
OPPOSITE BOND STREET.
1869.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by
G. P. PUTNAM & CO.,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United
States for the Southern District of New York.
RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE:
PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY.
Dedicated to
A. B.
OF SAXE-COBURG-GOTHA,
BY
HIS FELLOW-TRAVELLER IN EGYPT.
B. T.
PREFACE.
There is an old Italian proverb, which says a man has lived to no
purpose, unless he has either built a house, begotten a son, or written
a book. As I have already complied more than once with the latter of
these requisitions, I must seek to justify the present repetition
thereof, on other grounds. My reasons for offering this volume to the
public are, simply, that there is room for it. It is the record of a
journey which led me, for the most part, over fresh fields, by paths
which comparatively few had trodden before me. Although I cannot hope
to add much to the general stock of information concerning Central
Africa, I may serve, at least, as an additional witness, to confirm or
illustrate the evidence of others. Hence, the preparation of this work
has appeared to me rather in the light of a duty than a diversion, and I
have endeavored to impart as much instruction as amusement to the reader.
While seeking to give correct pictures of the rich, adventurous life
into which I was thrown, I have resisted the temptation to yield myself
up to its more subtle and poetic aspects. My aim has been to furnish a
faithful narrative of my own experience, believing that none of those
embellishments which the imagination so readily furnishes, can equal the
charm of the unadorned truth.
There are a few words of further explanation which I wish to say. The
journey was undertaken solely for the purpose of restoring a frame
exhausted by severe mental labor. A previous experience of a tropical
climate convinced me that I should best accomplish my object by a
visit to Egypt, and as I had a whole winter before me, I determined to
penetrate as far into the interior of Africa as the time would allow,
attracted less by the historical and geographical interest of those
regions than by the desire to participate in their free, vigorous,
semi-barbaric life. If it had been my intention, as some of my friends
supposed, to search for the undiscovered sources of the White Nile, I
should not have turned back, until the aim was accomplished or all means
had failed.
I am aware that, by including in this work my journey through Egypt, I
have gone over much ground which is already familiar. Egypt, however,
was the vestibule through which I passed to Ethiopia and the kingdoms
beyond, and I have not been able to omit my impressions of that country
without detracting from the completeness of the narrative. This book is
the record of a single journey, which, both in its character and in the
circumstances that suggested and accompanied it, occupies a separate
place in my memory. Its performance was one uninterrupted enjoyment, for,
whatever the privations to which it exposed me, they were neutralized by
the physical delight of restored health and by a happy confidence in the
successful issue of the journey, which never forsook me. It is therefore
but just to say, that the pictures I have drawn may seem over-bright to
others who may hereafter follow me; and I should warn all such that they
must expect to encounter many troubles and annoyances.
Although I have described somewhat minutely the antiquities of Nubia and
Ethiopia which I visited, and have not been insensible to the interest
which every traveller in Egypt must feel in the remains of her ancient
art, I have aimed at giving representations of the living races which
inhabit those countries rather than the old ones which have passed away.
I have taken it for granted that the reader will feel more interested—as
I was—in a live Arab, than a dead Pharaoh. I am indebted wholly to the
works of Champollion, Wilkinson and Lepsius for whatever allusions I have
made to the age and character of the Egyptian ruins.
B. T.
NEW YORK, July, 1854.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Arrival at Alexandria—The Landing—My First Oriental Bath—The
City—Preparations for Departure, 13
CHAPTER II.
Departure—The Kangia—The Egyptian Climate—The Mahmoudieh
Canal—Entrance into the Nile—Pleasures of the Journey—Studying
Arabic—Sight of the Pyramids—The Barrage—Approach to Cairo, 21
CHAPTER III.
Entrance—The Ezbekiyeh—Saracenic Houses—Donkeys—The Bazaars—The
Streets—Processions—View from the Citadel—Mosque of Mohammed
Ali—The Road to Suez—The Island of Rhoda, 34
CHAPTER IV.
Necessity of Leaving Immediately—Engaging a Boat—The
Dragomen—Achmet el Saïdi—Funds—Information—Procuring an
Outfit—Preparing for the Desert—The Lucky Day—Exertions to
Leave—Off, 46
CHAPTER V.
Howling Dervishes—A Chicken Factory—Ride to the
Pyramids—Quarrel with the Arabs—The Ascent—View from
the Summit—Backsheesh—Effect of Pyramid-climbing—The
Sphinx—Playing the Cadi—We obtain Justice—Visit to Sakkara
and the Mummy Pits—The Exhumation of Memphis—Interview with
M. Mariette—Account of his Discoveries—Statue of Remeses
II.—Return to the Nile, 55
CHAPTER VI.
Leaving the Pyramids—A Calm and a Breeze—A Coptic
Visit—Minyeh—The Grottoes of Beni-Hassan—Doum Palms
and Crocodiles—Djebel Aboufayda—Entrance into Upper
Egypt—Diversions of the Boatmen—Siout—Its Tombs—A Landscape—A
Bath, 71
CHAPTER VII.
Independence of Nile Life—The Dahabiyeh—Our Servants—Our
Residence—Our Manner of Living—The Climate—The
Natives—Costume—Our Sunset Repose—My Friend—A Sensuous Life
Defended, 85
CHAPTER VIII.
Calm—Mountains and Tombs—A Night Adventure in Ekhmin—Character
of the Boatmen—Fair Wind—Pilgrims—Egyptian Agriculture—Sugar
and Cotton—Grain—Sheep—Arrival at Kenneh—A Landscape—The Temple
of Dendera—First Impressions of Egyptian Art—Portrait of
Cleopatra—A Happy Meeting—We approach Thebes, 98
CHAPTER IX.
Arrival at Thebes—Ground-Plan of the Remains—We Cross
to the Western Bank—Guides—The Temple of Goorneh—Valley
of the Kings’ Tombs—Belzoni’s Tomb—The Races of
Men—Vandalism of Antiquarians—Bruce’s Tomb—Memnon—The
Grandfather of Sesostris—The Head of Amunoph—The Colossi
of the Plain—Memnonian Music—The Statue of Rameses—The
Memnonium—Beauty of Egyptian Art—More Scrambles among the
Tombs—The Bats of the Assasseef—Medeenet Abou—Sculptured
Histories—The Great Court of the Temple—We return to Luxor, 113
CHAPTER X.
The Dancing Girls of Egypt—A Night Scene in Luxor—The
Orange-Blossom and the Apple-Blossom—The Beautiful Bemba—The
Dance—Performance of the Apple-Blossom—The Temple of Luxor—A
Mohammedan School—Gallop to Karnak—View of the Ruins—The Great
Hall of Pillars—Bedouin Diversions—A Night Ride—Karnak under
the Full Moon—Farewell to Thebes, 131
CHAPTER XI.
The Temple of Hermontis—Esneh and its Temple—The Governor—El
Kab by Torch-light—The Temple of Edfou—The Quarries of Djebel
Silsileh—Ombos—Approach to Nubia—Change in the Scenery and
Inhabitants—A Mirage—Arrival at Assouan, 145
CHAPTER XII.
An Official Visit—Achmet’s Dexterity—The Island of
Elephantine—Nubian Children—Trip to Philæ—Linant Bey—The Island
of Philæ—Sculptures—The Negro Race—Breakfast in a Ptolemaic
Temple—The Island of Biggeh—Backsheesh—The Cataract—The Granite
Quarries of Assouan—The Travellers separate, 152
CHAPTER XIII.
Solitary Travel—Scenery of the Nubian Nile—Agriculture—The
Inhabitants—Arrival at Korosko—The Governor—The Tent
Pitched—Shekh Abou-Mohammed—Bargaining for Camels—A Drove of
Giraffes—Visits—Preparations for the Desert—My Last Evening on
the Nile, 162
CHAPTER XIV.
The Curve of the Nile—Routes across the Desert—Our
Caravan starts—Riding on a Dromedary—The Guide and
Camel-drivers—Hair-dressing—El Biban—Scenery—Dead
Camels—An Unexpected Visit—The Guide makes my Grave—The
River without Water—Characteristics of the Mirage—Desert
Life—The Sun—The Desert Air—Infernal Scenery—The Wells of
Mûrr-hàt—Christmas—Mountain Chains—Meeting Caravans—Plains of
Gravel—The Story of Joseph—Djebel Mokràt—The Last Day in the
Desert—We see the Nile again, 171
CHAPTER XV.
A Draught of Water—Abou-Hammed—The Island of Mokràt—Ethiopian
Scenery—The People—An Ababdeh Apollo—Encampment on
the Nile—Tomb of an Englishman—Eesa’s Wedding—A White
Arab—The Last Day of the Year—Abou-Hashym—Incidents—Loss
of my Thermometer—The Valley of Wild Asses—The Eleventh
Cataract—Approach to Berber—Vultures—Eyoub Outwitted—We reach
El Mekheyref—The Caravan Broken up, 198
CHAPTER XVI.
A Wedding—My Reception by the Military Governor—Achmet—The
Bridegroom—A Guard—I am an American Bey—Kèff—The Bey’s
Visit—The Civil Governor—About the Navy—The Priest’s
Visit—Riding in State—The Dongolese Stallion—A Merchant’s
House—The Town—Dinner at the Governor’s—The Pains of Royalty—A
Salute to the American Flag—Departure, 206
CHAPTER XVII.
Fortunate Travel—The America—Ethiopian Scenery—The Atbara
River—Damer—A Melon Patch—Agriculture—The Inhabitants—Change of
Scenery—The First Hippopotamus—Crocodiles—Effect of My Map—The
Raïs and Sailors—Arabs in Ethiopia—Ornamental Scars—Beshir—The
Slave Bakhita—We Approach Meroë, 219
CHAPTER XVIII.
Arrival at Bedjerowiyeh—The Ruins of Meroë—Walk Across the
Plain—The Pyramids—Character of their Masonry—The Tower
and Vault—Finding of the Treasure—The Second Group—More
Ruins—Site of the City—Number of the Pyramids—The Antiquity
of Meroë—Ethiopian and Egyptian Civilization—The Caucasian
Race—Reflections, 229
CHAPTER XIX.
The Landscapes of Ethiopia—My Evenings beside the
Nile—Experiences of the Arabian Nights—The Story of the
Sultana Zobeide and the Wood-cutter—Character of the Arabian
Tales—Religion, 238
CHAPTER XX.
Arrival at Shendy—Appearance of the Town—Shendy in Former
Days—We Touch at El Metemma—The Nile beyond Shendy—Flesh
Diet vs. Vegetables—We Escape Shipwreck—A Walk on Shore—The
Rapids of Derreira—Djebel Gerri—The Twelfth Cataract—Night
in the Mountain Gorge—Crocodiles—A Drink of Mareesa—My
Birth-Day—Fair Wind—Approach to Khartoum—The Junction of the
Two Niles—Appearance of the City—We Drop Anchor, 258
CHAPTER XXI.
The American Flag—A Rencontre—Search for a House—The Austrian
Consular Agent—Description of his Residence—The Garden—The
Menagerie—Barbaric Pomp and State—Picturesque Character of
the Society of Khartoum—Foundation and Growth of the City—Its
Appearance—The Population—Unhealthiness of the Climate—Assembly
of Ethiopian Chieftains—Visit of Two Shekhs—Dinner and
Fireworks, 270
CHAPTER XXII.
Visit to the Catholic Mission—Dr. Knoblecher, the Apostolic
Vicar—Moussa Bey—Visit to Lattif Pasha—Reception—The
Pasha’s Palace—Lions—We Dine with the Pasha—Ceremonies upon
the Occasion—Music—The Guests—The Franks in Khartoum—Dr.
Péney—Visit to the Sultana Nasra—An Ethiopian Dinner—Character
of the Sultana, 280
CHAPTER XXIII.
Recent Explorations of Soudân—Limit of the Tropical Rains—The
Conquest of Ethiopia—Countries Tributary to Egypt—The District
of Takka—Expedition of Moussa Bey—The Atbara River—The
Abyssinian Frontier—Christian Ruins of Abou-Haràss—The
Kingdom of Sennaar—Kordofan—Dar-Fūr—The Princess of Dar-Fūr
in Khartoum—Her Visit to Dr. Reitz—The Unknown Countries of
Central Africa, 297
CHAPTER XXIV.
Excursions around Khartoum—A Race into the Desert—Euphorbia
Forest—The Banks of the Blue Nile—A Saint’s Grave—The
Confluence of the Two Niles—Magnitude of the Nile—Comparative
Size of the Rivers—Their Names—Desire to penetrate further into
Africa—Attractions of the White Nile—Engage the Boat _John
Ledyard_—Former Restrictions against exploring the River—Visit
to the Pasha—Despotic Hospitality—Achmet’s Misgivings—We set
sail, 309
CHAPTER XXV.
Departure from Khartoum—We enter the White Nile—Mirage and
Landscape—The Consul returns—Progress—Loss of the Flag—Scenery
of the Shores—Territory of the Hassaniyehs—Curious Conjugal
Custom—Multitudes of Water Fowls—Increased Richness of
Vegetation—Apes—Sunset on the White Nile—We reach the Kingdom
of the Shillook Negroes, 320
CHAPTER XXVI.
Morning—Magnificence of the Island Scenery—Birds and
Hippopotami—Flight of the Natives—The Island of Aba—Signs
of Population—A Band of Warriors—The Shekh and the Sultan—A
Treaty of Peace—The Robe of Honor—Suspicions—We walk to the
Village—Appearance of the Shillooks—The Village—The Sultan
gives Audience—Women and Children—Ornaments of the Natives—My
Watch—A Jar of Honey—Suspicion and Alarm—The Shillook and the
Sultan’s Black Wife—Character of the Shillooks—The Land of the
Lotus—Population of the Shillook Kingdom—The Turning Point—A
View from the Mast-Head, 329
CHAPTER XXVII.
Explorations of the White Nile—Dr. Knoblecher’s Voyage in
1849-50—The Lands of the Shillooks and Dinkas—Intercourse with
the Natives—Wild Elephants and Giraffes—The Sobat River—The
Country of Marshes—The Gazelle Lake—The Nuehrs—Interview
with the Chief of the Kyks—The Zhir Country—Land of the
Baris—The Rapids Surmounted—Arrival at Logwek, in Lat.
4° 10′ North—Panorama from Mt. Logwek—Sources of the
White Nile—Character of the Bari Nation—Return of the
Expedition—Fascination of the Nile, 345
CHAPTER XXVIII.
We leave the Islands of the Shillooks—Tropical Jungles—A Whim
and its Consequences—Lairs of Wild Beasts—Arrival among the
Hassaniyehs—A Village—The Woman and the Sultan—A Dance of
Salutation—My Arab Sailor—A Swarthy Cleopatra—Salutation of the
Saint—Miraculous Fishing—Night View of a Hassaniyeh Village—Wad
Shèllayeh—A Shekh’s Residence—An Ebony Cherub—The Cook Attempts
Suicide—Evening Landscape—The Natives and their Cattle—A Boyish
Governor—We reach Khartoum at Midnight, 356
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Departure of Abd-el Kader Bey—An Illuminated Picture—The
Breakfast on the Island—Horsemanship—The Pasha’s
Stories—Departure of Lattif Effendi’s Expedition—A Night
on the Sand—Abou-Sin, and his Shukoree Warriors—Change
in the Climate—Intense Heat and its Effects—Preparations
for Returning—A Money Transaction—Farewell Visits—A
Dinner with Royal Guests—Jolly King Dyaab—A Shillook
Dance—Reconciliation—Taking Leave of my Pets, 372
CHAPTER XXX.
The Commerce of Soudân—Avenues of Trade—The Merchants—Character
of the Imports—Speculation—The Gum Trade of Kordofan—The Ivory
Trade—Abuses of the Government—The Traffic in Slaves—Prices of
Slaves—Their Treatment, 384
CHAPTER XXXI.
Farewell Breakfast—Departure from Khartoum—Parting with Dr.
Reitz—A Prediction and its Fulfilment—Dreary Appearance of
the Country—Lions—Burying-Grounds—The Natives—My Kababish
Guide, Mohammed—Character of the Arabs—Habits of Deception—My
Dromedary—Mutton and Mareesa—A Soudân Ditty—The Rowyàn—Akaba
Gerri—Heat and Scenery—An Altercation with the Guide—A Mishap—A
Landscape—Tedious Approach to El Metemma—Appearance of the
Town—Preparations for the Desert—Meeting Old Acquaintances, 392
CHAPTER XXXII.
Entering the Desert—Character of the Scenery—Wells—Fear of
the Arabs—The Laloom Tree—Effect of the Hot Wind—Mohammed
overtakes us—Arab Endurance—An unpleasant Bedfellow—Comedy
of the Crows—Gazelles—We encounter a Sand-storm—The Mountain
of Thirst—The Wells of Djeekdud—A Mountain Pass—Desert
Intoxication—Scenery of the Table-land—Bir Khannik—The
Kababish Arabs—Gazelles again—Ruins of an Ancient Coptic
Monastery—Distant View of the Nile Valley—Djebel Berkel—We come
into Port, 406
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Our whereabouts—Shekh Mohammed Abd e’-Djebàl—My residence
at Abdôm—Crossing the River—A Superb Landscape—The Town of
Merawe—Ride to Djebel Berkel—The Temples of Napata—Ascent of
the Mountain—Ethiopian Panorama—Lost and Found—The Pyramids—The
Governor of Merawe—A Scene in the Divan—The Shekh and I—The
Governor Dines with me—Ruins of the City of Napata—A Talk about
Religions—Engaging Camels for Wadi-Halfa—The Shekh’s Parting
Blessing, 421
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Appearance of the Country—Korti—The Town of Ambukol—The
Caravan reorganized—A Fiery Ride—We reach Edabbe—An
Illuminated Landscape—A Torment—Nubian Agriculture—Old
Dongola—The Palace-Mosque of the Nubian Kings—A Panorama
of Desolation—The Old City—Nubian Gratitude—Another
Sand-Storm—A Dreary Journey—The Approach to Handak—A House
of Doubtful Character—The Inmates—Journey to El Ordee (New
Dongola)—Khoorshid Bey—Appearance of the Town, 438
CHAPTER XXXV.
We start for Wadi-Halfa—The Plague of Black Gnats—Mohammed’s
Coffin—The Island of Argo—Market-Day—Scenery of the
Nile—Entering Dar El-Màhass—Ruined Fortresses—The Camel-Men—A
Rocky Chaos—Fakir Bender—The Akaba of Màhass—Camp in the
Wilderness—The Charm of Desolation—The Nile again—Pilgrims from
Dar-Fūr—The Struggle of the Nile—An Arcadian Landscape—The
Temple of Soleb—Dar Sukkôt—The Land of Dates—The Island of
Sai—A Sea of Sand—Camp by the River—A Hyena Barbecue, 457
CHAPTER XXXVI.
The Batn El-Hadjar, or Belly of Stone—Ancient Granite
Quarries—The Village of Dal—A Ruined Fortress—A Wilderness of
Stones—The Hot Springs of Ukmé—A Windy Night—A Dreary Day in
the Desert—The Shekh’s Camel Fails—Descent to Samneh—The Temple
and Cataract—Meersheh—The Sale of Abou-Sin—We Emerge from the
Belly of Stone—A Kababish Caravan—The Rock of Abou-Seer—View
of the Second Cataract—We reach Wadi-Halfa—Selling my
Dromedaries—Farewell to Abou-Sin—Thanksgiving on the
Ferry-boat—Parting with the Camel-men, 471
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Wadi Haifa—A Boat for Assouan—We Embark on the Nile
Again—An Egyptian Dream—The Temples of Abou-Simbel—The
Smaller Temple—The Colossi of Remeses II.—Vulgarity of
Travellers—Entering the Great Temple—My Impressions—Character
of Abou-Simbel—The Smaller Chambers—The Races of Men—Remeses
and the Captive Kings—Departure, 486
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
I Lose my Sunshine, and Regain it—Nubian Scenery—Derr—The
Temple of Amada—Mysterious Rappings—Familiar Scenes—Halt at
Korosko—Escape from Shipwreck—The Temple of Sebooa—Chasing
other Boats—Temple of Djerf Hossayn—A Backsheesh
Experiment—Kalabshee—Temple of Dabôd—We reach the Egyptian
Frontier, 495
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Assouan—A Boat for Cairo—English Tourists—A
Head-wind—Ophthalmia—Esneh—A Mummied Princess—Ali Effendi’s
Stories—A Donkey Afrite—Arrival at Luxor—The Egyptian Autumn—A
Day at Thebes—Songs of the Sailors—Ali leaves me—Ride to
Dendera—Head-winds again—Visit to Tahtah—The House of Rufaā
Bey, 506
CHAPTER XL.
Siout in Harvest-time—A kind Englishwoman—A Slight Experience
of Hasheesh—The Calm—Rapid Progress down the Nile—The Last
Day of the Voyage—Arrival at Cairo—Tourists preparing for the
Desert—Parting with Achmet—Conclusion, 517
JOURNEY TO CENTRAL AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTION TO AFRICA.
Arrival at Alexandria—The Landing—My First Oriental Bath—The
City—Preparations for Departure.
I left Smyrna in the Lloyd steamer, _Conte Stürmer_, on the first day of
November, 1851. We passed the blue Sporadic Isles—Cos, and Rhodes, and
Karpathos—and crossing the breadth of the Eastern Mediterranean, favored
all the way by unruffled seas, and skies of perfect azure, made the
pharos of Alexandria on the evening of the 3d. The entrance to the harbor
is a narrow and difficult passage through reefs, and no vessel dares to
attempt it at night, but with the first streak of dawn we were boarded
by an Egyptian pilot, and the rising sun lighted up for us the white
walls of the city, the windmills of the Ras el-Tin, or Cape of Figs, and
the low yellow sand-hills in which I recognized Africa—for they were
prophetic of the desert behind them.
We entered the old harbor between the island of Pharos and the main
land (now connected by a peninsular strip, on which the Frank quarter
is built), soon after sunrise. The water swarmed with boats before the
anchor dropped, and the Egyptian health officer had no sooner departed
than we were boarded by a crowd of dragomen, hotel runners, and boatmen.
A squinting Arab, who wore a white dress and red sash, accosted me in
Italian, offering to conduct me to the Oriental Hotel. A German and a
Smyrniote, whose acquaintance I had made during the voyage, joined me in
accepting his services, and we were speedily boated ashore. We landed
on a pile of stones, not far from a mean-looking edifice called the
Custom-House. Many friends were there to welcome us, and I shall never
forget the eagerness with which they dragged us ashore, and the zeal with
which they pommelled one another in their generous efforts to take charge
of our effects. True, we could have wished that their faces had been
better washed, their baggy trousers less ragged and their red caps less
greasy, and we were perhaps ungrateful in allowing our Arab to rate them
soundly and cuff the ears of the more obstreperous, before our trunks
and carpet-bags could be portioned among them. At the Custom-House we
were visited by two dark gentlemen, in turbans and black flowing robes,
who passed our baggage without scrutiny, gently whispering in our ears,
“_backsheesh_,”—a word which we then heard for the first time, but which
was to be the key-note of much of our future experience. The procession
of porters was then set in motion, and we passed through several
streets of whitewashed two story houses, to the great square of the
Frank quarter, which opened before us warm and brilliant in the morning
sunshine.
The principal hotels and consulates front on this square The architecture
is Italian, with here and there a dash of Saracenic, in the windows and
doorways, especially in new buildings. A small obelisk of alabaster, a
present from Mohammed Ali, stands in the centre, on a pedestal which
was meant for a fountain, but has no water. All this I noted, as well
as a crowd of donkeys and donkey-boys, and a string of laden camels, on
our way to the hotel, which we found to be a long and not particularly
clean edifice, on the northern side of the square. The English and French
steamers had just arrived, and no rooms were to be had until after the
departure of the afternoon boat for Cairo. Our dragoman, who called
himself Ibrahim, suggested a bath as the most agreeable means of passing
the intermediate time.
The clear sky, the temperature (like that of a mild July day at home),
and the novel interest of the groups in the streets, were sufficient
to compensate for any annoyance: but when we reached the square of the
French Church, and saw a garden of palm-trees waving their coronals of
glittering leaves every thing else was forgotten. My German friend,
who had never seen palms, except as starveling exotics in Sorrento and
Smyrna, lifted his hands in rapture, and even I, who had heard tens of
thousands rustle in the hot winds of the Tropics, felt my heart leap as
if their beauty were equally new to my eyes. For no amount of experience
can deprive the traveller of that happy feeling of novelty which marks
his first day on the soil of a new continent. I gave myself up wholly to
its inebriation. _Et ego in Africâ_, was the sum of my thoughts, and I
neither saw nor cared to know the fact (which we discovered in due time),
that our friend Ibrahim was an arrant knave.
The bath to which he conducted us was pronounced to be the finest in
Alexandria, the most superb in all the Orient, but it did not at all
accord with our ideas of Eastern luxury. Moreover, the bath-keeper was
his intimate friend, and would bathe us as no Christians were ever
bathed before. One fact Ibrahim kept to himself, which was, that his
intimate friend and he shared the spoils of our inexperience. We were
conducted to a one-story building, of very unprepossessing exterior.
As we entered the low, vaulted entrance, my ears were saluted with a
dolorous, groaning sound, which I at first conjectured to proceed from
the persons undergoing the operation, but which I afterward ascertained
was made by a wheel turned by a buffalo, employed in raising water from
the well. In a sort of basement hall, smelling of soap-suds, and with
a large tank of dirty water in the centre, we were received by the
bath-keeper, who showed us into a room containing three low divans with
pillows. Here we disrobed, and Ibrahim, who had procured a quantity of
napkins, enveloped our heads in turbans and swathed our loins in a simple
Adamite garment. Heavy wooden clogs were attached to our feet, and an
animated bronze statue led the way through gloomy passages, sometimes hot
and steamy, sometimes cold and soapy, and redolent of any thing but the
spicy odors of Araby the Blest, to a small vaulted chamber, lighted by a
few apertures in the ceiling. The moist heat was almost suffocating; hot
water flowed over the stone floor, and the stone benches we sat upon were
somewhat cooler than kitchen stoves. The bronze individual left us, and
very soon, sweating at every pore, we began to think of the three Hebrews
in the furnace. Our comfort was not increased by the groaning sound which
we still heard, and by seeing, through a hole in the door, five or six
naked figures lying motionless along the edge of a steaming vat, in the
outer room.
Presently our statue returned with a pair of coarse hair-gloves on his
hands. He snatched off our turbans, and then, seizing one of my friends
by the shoulder as if he had been a sheep, began a sort of rasping
operation upon his back. This process, varied occasionally by a dash of
scalding water, was extended to each of our three bodies, and we were
then suffered to rest awhile. A course of soap-suds followed, which was
softer and more pleasant in its effect, except when he took us by the
hair, and holding back our heads, scrubbed our faces most lustily, as if
there were no such things as eyes, noses and mouths. By this time we had
reached such a salamandrine temperature that the final operation of a
dozen pailfuls of hot water poured over the head, was really delightful.
After a plunge in a seething tank, we were led back to our chamber and
enveloped in loose muslin robes. Turbans were bound on our heads and we
lay on the divans to recover from the languor of the bath. The change
produced by our new costume was astonishing. The stout German became
a Turkish mollah, the young Smyrniote a picturesque Persian, and I—I
scarcely know what, but, as my friends assured me, a much better Moslem
than Frank. Cups of black coffee, and pipes of inferior tobacco completed
the process, and in spite of the lack of cleanliness and superabundance
of fleas, we went forth lighter in body, and filled with a calm content
which nothing seemed able to disturb.
After a late breakfast at the hotel, we sallied out for a survey of
the city. The door was beleaguered by the donkeys and their attendant
drivers, who hailed us in all languages at once. “_Venez, Monsieur!_”
“Take a ride, sir; here is a good donkey!” “_Schœner Esel!_” “_Prendete
il mio burrico!_”—and you are made the vortex of a whirlpool of donkeys.
The one-eyed donkey-boys fight, the donkeys kick, and there is no rest
till you have bestridden one of the little beasts. The driver then
gives his tail a twist and his rump a thwack, and you are carried off
in triumph. The animal is so small that you seem the more silly of the
two, when you have mounted, but after he has carried you for an hour in a
rapid gallop, you recover your dignity in your respect for him.
The spotless blue of the sky and the delicious elasticity of the air
were truly intoxicating, as we galloped between gardens of date-trees,
laden with ripe fruit, to the city gate, and through it into a broad
road, fringed with acacias, leading to the Mahmoudieh canal. But to the
south, on a rise of dry, sandy soil, stood the Pillar of Diocletian—not
of Pompey, whose name it bears. It is a simple column, ninety-eight feet
in height, but the shaft is a single block of red granite, and stands
superbly against the background of such a sky and such a sea. It is the
only relic of the ancient Alexandria worthy of its fame, but you could
not wish for one more imposing and eloquent. The glowing white houses of
the town, the minarets, the palms and the acacias fill the landscape, but
it stands apart from them, in the sand, and looks only to the sea and the
desert.
In the evening we took donkeys again and rode out of the town to a café
on the banks of the canal. A sunset of burning rose and orange sank
over the desert behind Pompey’s Pillar, and the balmiest of breezes
stole towards us from the sea, through palm gardens. A Swiss gentleman,
M. de Gonzenbach, whose kindness I shall always gratefully remember,
accompanied us. As we sat under the acacias, sipping the black Turkish
coffee, the steamer for Cairo passed, disturbing the serenity of the air
with its foul smoke, and marring the delicious repose of the landscape in
such wise, that we vowed we would have nothing to do with steam so long
as we voyaged on the Nile. Our donkey-drivers patiently held the bridles
of our long-eared chargers till we were ready to return. It was dark,
and not seeing at first my attendant, a little one-eyed imp, I called at
random: “Abdallah!” This, it happened, was actually his name, and he came
trotting up, holding the stirrup ready for me to mount. The quickness
with which these young Arabs pick up languages, is truly astonishing.
“_Come vi chiamate?_” (what’s your name?) I asked of Abdallah, as we rode
homeward. The words were new to him, but I finally made him understand
their meaning, whereupon he put his knowledge into practice by asking
me: “_Come vi chiamate?_” “Abbas Pasha,” I replied. “Oh, well,” was his
prompt rejoinder, “if you are Abbas Pasha, then I am Seyd Pasha.” The
next morning he was at the door with his donkey, which I fully intended
to mount, but became entangled in a wilderness of donkeys, out of which
Ibrahim extricated me by hoisting me on another animal. As I rode
away, I caught a glimpse of the little fellow, crying lustily over his
disappointment.
We three chance companions fraternized so agreeably that we determined to
hire a boat for Cairo, in preference to waiting for the next steamer. We
accordingly rode over to the Mahmoudieh Canal, accompanied by Ibrahim,
to inspect the barks. Like all dragomen, Ibrahim had his private
preferences, and conducted us on board a boat belonging to a friend of
his, a grizzly raïs, or captain. The craft was a small _kangia_, with a
large lateen sail at the bow and a little one at the stern. It was not
very new, but looked clean, and the raïs demanded three hundred piastres
for the voyage. The piastre is the current coin of the East. Its value
is fluctuating, and always higher in Egypt than in Syria and Turkey, but
may be assumed at about five cents, or twenty to the American dollar.
Before closing the bargain, we asked the advice of M. de Gonzenbach, who
immediately despatched his Egyptian servant and engaged a boat at two
hundred and twenty-five piastres. Every thing was to be in readiness for
our departure on the following evening.