ORDINARY TRICKS PERFORMED BY DOGS.
Every dog who has the good or ill fortune to be a member of civilized
society is usually fated to undergo a more or less systematic education
“in the way he should go.” This education may be either in the primitive
style illustrated by the administration of a vigorous kick accompanying
the command “get out,” to teach the dog to leave you, or the more
elaborate training which culminates in the production of a canine
prodigy. The capacity for education in dogs varies much with different
varieties, and even with individuals of the same variety. While some are
taught with the greatest difficulty, others display a wonderful aptitude
for learning, and acquire a proficiency which is often really
surprising. Whether it is proposed to educate the animal as much as his
capacity will admit of, or merely to teach him the things necessary for
common convenience, the first thing is
TO TEACH HIM HIS NAME.
If a dog has any particular name by which he is usually addressed, he
will in time learn to answer to it. With a little system, however, he
will learn much sooner than otherwise, and where there are several dogs
it is a good plan to make each know his own distinctive title
thoroughly, and to respond promptly to it. This will render your
intercourse with, and your management of them, both easier and
pleasanter. It may be accomplished by a very simple process. When you
feed them, call each one by name to his food. If any of the others come
forward, send them back. By dividing the food into small morsels and
calling each dog in turn to receive his piece, always insisting that
_he_ and no other shall receive it, considerable of a lesson may be
derived from each meal. When convenient take them out to walk, being
careful to provide yourself with a few crackers or a piece of bread.
Allow the dogs to ramble about at their pleasure, and whenever you
choose call some particular one by his name; when he comes to you reward
him with a piece of cracker. By-and-by call some other one, and continue
the plan at your discretion. At the end of ten or a dozen lessons they
will have pretty well learned their names, and come at your call. If you
have only one dog, the plan would be about the same.
TO LEAP.
This is very a simple trick and easily taught. A line or pole may be
extended from any convenient supports, just so high that the dog cannot
_step_ over. Take your station on one side of this barrier with a supply
of bread or cracker. By the offer of a small piece induce him to
approach as near as possible to the line or pole, keeping the tid-bit
close to his nose, but raised a trifle above it. Now, with a sudden
movement, extend your hand beyond the barrier, crying at the same
moment, “hip,” or any other quick, inspiring exclamation. Eager to get
the tempting morsel he will leap over, and the same proceeding may be
repeated once or twice, when he should be rewarded with the bait he has
been striving for. After a few repetitions he will probably leap over at
a motion of the hand and the word of command. He should always be
rewarded for obeying, and it is well to have a light switch with which
to give him a gentle cut should he attempt to run under, which he should
never be permitted to do. The hight of the barrier may be increased
gradually from day to day, taking care never to over-task his powers.
With practice many dogs acquire the ability of making very creditable
leaps. We had an old dog who had been attached to a circus in his youth,
and had been rather “fast” in his proclivities. Not being content to
settle down to the quiet peacefulness of a back-yard existence, which he
probably considered rather slow, he was in the habit of leaping over a
fence at least ten feet high and plentifully studded with spikes, that
he might indulge in a nightly canine spree with other festive dogs of
his acquaintance.
When the dog leaps readily over a bar, a hoop may be held in the hand
and the same system pursued. The hoop may be gradually lessened in size
until the dog finally leaps through one hardly bigger around than his
own body, but to do this the trainer must display some skill in
conforming the motions of the hoop to those of the dog as he passes
through.
TO WALK ERECT.
[Illustration: WALKING ERECT.]
Hold a bone or other like temptation a little above the dog’s nose, but
not so high as to lead him to jump to get it. As he reaches for it raise
it so as to induce him to rise up on his hind feet, saying as you do so,
“up, up!” When he reaches the proper stand-point, let him remain there a
moment or two and then let him have the bone. Soon he will stand up on
your merely holding your hand in the position described and saying, “up,
up.” Then he may be taught to walk in this position by slowly moving the
bone or your hand slightly in advance. These exercises should not be
tediously prolonged, especially at first, for the position is an
unnatural and very fatiguing one to the animal. After he thoroughly
understands what is required of him you may check any attempt he may
make to regain his natural position before you are willing, by a gentle
tap under the chin or under the fore paws.
TO DANCE.
A dog is generally considered sufficiently accomplished in this
“graceful and agreeable art” when he has learned to hop around on his
hind legs, and to keep turning completely around at short intervals.
There are several modes of arriving at this result, the most simple of
which is, probably, to take a long switch, after the dog has learned to
stand erect, and to this switch attach a piece of meat. With this you
can trace out in the air, in tempting proximity to his nose, the figures
you wish him to take, and you may depend upon his instinct leading him
to follow the motions of the switch. This may seem rather an absurd plan
for initiating your pupil into the mysteries of the ball-room, but it is
nevertheless one of the most effective that can be devised. The dog
should be rewarded with the meat after he has danced enough to fairly
earn it, and after a few lessons the switch may be used without any bait
attached. He will at first follow its motions in the hope that there
_is_ something attached, and if he be rewarded for doing so, he will
soon comprehend that following the switch means meat by-and-by. If he is
dressed up in feminine apparel, as is generally done at public
exhibitions, the absurd figure he cuts, and the ridiculous caricature of
a lady “tripping the light fantastic toe” which he presents, is
extremely laughable.
TO JUMP ROPE.
After the dog has learned to leap at your command a light rope may be
substituted for the pole, one end of the rope being attached to some
stationary object while the other end is held in your hand. Exercise the
dog a few times at leaping the rope while it is without motion, and near
the ground, using the command “hip,” or whatever one he has been trained
to leap with, each time. Then give the rope a slight motion and at the
proper moment give the dog the usual command and he will obey it. By
increasing the motion very gradually he will, after many lessons, be
able to jump rope very creditably. He may be taught either to jump while
standing on his full complement of legs, or in the perpendicular
fashion.
TO SIT AND LIE DOWN.
It is one thing to have your dog do a thing at his own convenience and
of his own free will, and quite another thing to have him perform the
same action at your desire, especially if he had a little rather not do
it. This applies particularly to sitting or lying down, for it usually
happens that when you desire him to do so he feels least inclined; but
it is the trainer’s business to bend the animal’s will to his own, and
in this case it may be done thus: Taking your position with the dog in
front of you, raise one hand over his head and make a motion with it as
though about to strike him on the top of his head with your palm; as you
do so repeat the word “down” distinctly and commandingly, with each
motion of the hand. This should not be done as a menace, but to indicate
your wishes. While you do this, press firmly with your other hand upon
his back, just over the hips,—this pressure will assist in making him
take the desired position. When he has done so he should be patted and
made to understand that he has done right. Repeat until he obeys the
command readily, and then teach him to _lie_ down, which consists in
forcing him into a recumbent posture, as you command him to “_lie_
down!”
TO BEG.
After the dog has learned to stand erect he may easily be taught to beg.
All that is requisite is to press him down in the desired position; if
he attempts to leave it a gentle tap on the head with the switch will be
sufficient to control him. He may, if preferred, be taught to beg
without learning to stand erect; in this case he may be made to sit down
and then, pressing his haunches down to prevent his rising to his feet,
tap him under the chin till he takes the right position. Repetition is
of course necessary until he learns what is desired, and each time you
place him in position it is well to say “beg” two or three times so he
may associate the word with the act. Dogs, like many of the human race,
after they have “got the hang of it,” will beg persistently for the sake
of an occasional trifling reward.
TO GIVE HIS PAW.
There is scarcely a boy’s pet dog who has not acquired this very simple
trick, though his master probably would not recollect how it was taught.
Perhaps it was the dog’s sociable feelings that led him to perform the
kindly ceremony of “shaking hands,” or perhaps it was due to the
instinctive good breeding which is sometimes accredited to some
people—and why not also to some dogs? Whether politeness is a grace
which adorns the canine character, however, is a question we hardly feel
prepared to discuss, and it is much more probable that Master Harry, (or
James, or whatever his name may be), with no special thought in regard
to the matter, hit upon the secret which underlies all animal
training—compelling obedience to a command until the command is obeyed
without compulsion. What was more natural for our friend Harry, when he
first gave the momentous command of “paw,” and Carlo utterly in the dark
as to its signification, taking no notice of it—than to grip Carlo’s
fore “limb” and give it a shake? Nothing in the world more natural. This
is probably repeated at odd times until Carlo learns to give his paw
when Harry says “paw,” or holds out _his_ paw.
If the same paw is always given, as it will be if during the training
that one be always taken, the dog may be taught to offer the other one
when you ask for the “other paw,” by merely taking it a few times when
you make the request. By using “paw” for one and “other paw” for the
other—“paw” first—the dog will seldom get them confused. It is
preferable and makes the performance seem better, while it is really no
more difficult, if the words “right” and “left” are used in connection
with the commands. It is just as easy for a dog to learn the difference
between “right paw” and “left paw,” as between “paw” and “other paw.” It
is well to lay extra stress upon “right” and “left” while training, and
these words should be pronounced very distinctly. Should the dog offer
the wrong paw merely repeat your former command until he changes it,
then take it in your hand, call him “good dog,” and pat his head to let
him know he has done right.
A little boy of our acquaintance had a very handsome Newfoundland dog,
and having often heard the family physician desire members of the family
to let him feel their pulse, he thought it would be a capital idea, and
having coaxed the cook to give him some choice bits of beef-steak, he
commenced practice. “Let me feel your pulse, Bruno,” says he, and taking
Bruno’s paw in his fingers he imitated the doctor with a comical
childish assumption of professional gravity. He scarcely intended, when
he commenced, to make Bruno _offer_ his pulse for examination at his
desire, but Bruno was an intelligent dog and the beef-steak was very
good, and before long he would stick his paw out as nicely as could be
desired. Our little friend, delighted with the result of his efforts,
lost no opportunity of showing off Bruno’s accomplishment, and the dog
was continually holding out his “pulse” for the examination of visitors.
The doctor calling some time after was somewhat amused at our little
friend’s request to Bruno to “let the doctor feel your pulse,” and
Bruno’s ready compliance therewith.
We had a half-grown puppy of one of the larger breeds some years since,
which by constant training became so used to offering his paw that he
would do so to visitors or others without being ordered to. One day a
strange cat intruded upon the premises, and puppy made a rush at it with
every token of hostility. When near it, however, habit appeared to gain
a mastery, for he held out his paw as usual. The cat being irritated by
his previous threatening aspect merely struck at him with her claws,
inflicting quite a severe scratch, whereupon puppy, perceiving
politeness to be at a discount, pitched in and routed the enemy
gallantly.
TO SNEEZE.
On a recent visit to a friend we came across a dog who would sneeze in a
most natural manner whenever his master said, “Sneeze, Zip.” This being
the only example of a dog performing this trick which we had ever seen
we desired our friend to give us some particulars of the manner of
teaching the trick, which he obligingly did, to this effect: “One
afternoon, having nothing more important to do, I was amusing myself by
bothering Zip with a long feather which I poked in his face, to induce
him to snap at it. While doing this I by chance tickled his nose, he
immediately commenced sneezing. Once commenced, it seemed as though he
would never stop, and I said, rather sarcastically, ‘Sneeze, Zip.’ I
don’t suppose my words had any effect, but he certainly did sneeze; this
gave me the idea of teaching him to repeat it at my bidding. Armed with
my feather I commenced operations; tickling his nose gently each time I
repeated the command. He didn’t like the feather very well, and
by-and-by, as though his imagination foreshadowed its effects, he would
sneeze on having it pointed in close proximity to his nose. At odd times
when I had a little idle time on my hands, I repeated the exercise, and
the dog in a few weeks would sneeze very creditably when I commanded. I
was in the habit of rewarding every first rate sneeze with a butter
cracker, of which Zip was very fond. Zip has since had the reputation of
suffering from severe colds in the head.”
This was the only special accomplishment which Zip possessed, and
whether this was the result of peculiarly sensitive olfactory organs or
his master’s training we are unable to say. Of the merits of the latter
we are not prepared to speak, having never given the system an actual
trial, but we should imagine that such a course might succeed.
TO SPEAK FOR IT.
This may be taught either in connection with the preceding trick, as a
portion of it, or by itself. If the former, it is better to let the dog
thoroughly master the first part, begging, before it is attempted to
teach him to “speak for it.” Take a piece of some article of food which
he is fond of, and allowing him to see it, command him to “speak for
it!” Of course he will not understand what you mean, and will probably
only gaze wistfully at the morsel. By-and-by he will grow impatient and
give vent to a sharp bark. The moment he has done this give him the
article, for although he has not understood you he has done what you
desired, and by rewarding him he learns that this is the case. Practice
him a little at some of his old tricks with another reward at hand to
encourage him. Should he try the experiment of barking while thus
engaged no notice should be taken of it, for it is not desired that he
should bark except he be told to, and his doing so in other cases should
never be rewarded. When you wish it, repeat the command of “speak for
it,” and when he obeys reward him. If at first he does not show an
inclination to bark he may be stimulated to do so by your giving a
“bow-wow” yourself in as doggish a manner as you are able. This
encroachment on his language will generally have the desired effect, for
few dogs can resist replying to this act which they no doubt deem an
impertinent meddling with their “mother tongue.”
TO FETCH AND CARRY.
[Illustration: DOG TAUGHT TO CARRY BASKET.]
This accomplishment may often be put to great practical use, and it is
an excellent plan to teach all dogs, which are large enough to be of any
service in this manner, to carry baskets or parcels when accompanying
their masters. The mode of training is very simple, consisting of merely
placing the article in the dog’s mouth, and when he lets go of it give
him a slight box on the ear and replace the article in his mouth.
Whatever is given him to carry should be of such a form as to be grasped
easily by him without hurting his mouth or teeth. The weight should at
first be _very_ light and _never_ more than he can easily carry. Most
dogs will take a real pleasure in carrying articles in this manner, and
they seem to feel the responsibility attached to their duty, for they
will carry their own or their master’s dinner without attempting to
appropriate any portion of it until the proper time when their share
shall be given them. In teaching dogs to carry food, however, it is
necessary to take a little special pains to overcome their instinctive
inclinations to eat it. A good plan is to place the article in a covered
basket which they cannot open, and when the dog has learned to carry an
ordinary parcel give him this. If he attempts to get at the food, which
he readily detects by his sense of smell, box his ears. By-and-by reward
him with the food, and then try him with a basket from which he _can_
abstract the contents; if he tries to do so punish him slightly, never
permitting him to steal the food. If a dog ever deserves a reward for
well doing he certainly does in this case, for it is too bad to
tantalize him with the smell of some dainty and then not to let him
finally have something for his good conduct.
To make a dog carry articles from one person to another it is only
necessary for two persons to take their position at some distance from
one another. One gives the dog some article saying, “go, sir,” at the
same time. As the first says this let the other person call or whistle
to the dog. Now let this one give the dog some thing and let the other
one call him, and so on back and forth until he will go from one to the
other at the command, “go, sir.” The distance between the parties may be
increased from time to time, and the trick may be varied by one of them
hiding himself, this will teach the dog to hunt for the person to whom
he is to deliver the article, which will prove useful when you by-and-by
desire to send him on an actual errand to a distance.
The extent to which any dog may be educated in this matter depends very
much upon his natural intelligence and the skill and perseverance of his
teacher. Many anecdotes are told of dogs going on errands. In some cases
they go to the post-office for letters, in other cases to the store for
groceries, etc., and we recollect several instances cited where dogs
would, on being given a piece of money, go to the baker’s and purchase
cake on their own account. The baker, in one of these instances, is said
to have one day palmed a stale bun upon a dog who had been in the habit
of coming to him regularly with pennies, and the animal, to show he was
not to be imposed upon, transferred his custom to a rival establishment.
In none of these accounts have we ever seen any mention of the dogs
having been subjected to any special training, and it is more than
likely that they never were. Animals, like men, are creatures of habit.
If a man becomes accustomed to a certain routine it is difficult for him
to change. Many merchants, retired from business, continue to pay a
daily visit to their old offices, their brokers or lawyers, just because
not to do so would make them uncomfortable and restless. So a dog who
has become used to accompanying his master on any regular round of
duties will often show that he understands where it is they are going by
running ahead and stopping at the accustomed place. We call to mind a
dog belonging to a gentleman residing some miles from this city, who
will serve as an example of what we have stated, though probably all of
our readers are familiar with instances equally, if not more,
remarkable. The gentleman was accustomed to walk from his residence some
half mile to take the morning train for the city, and to return by a
particular train in the evening. The dog accompanied him to the cars in
the morning, and would again meet him on the arrival of the train at
night. It took him some weeks to learn when to expect his master, but
after that he never made any mistakes.
A writer in one of the magazines mentions a poodle who was in the habit
of going to church with his master and sitting with him in the pew
during the whole service. Sometimes his owner did not come, but the
poodle was always promptly in his place, remaining during the service
and departing with the rest of the congregation. One Sunday the dam at
the head of a lake in the neighborhood gave way, and the whole road was
inundated. The attendance at church that morning was therefore
restricted to a few individuals who came from near by. But by the time
the clergyman had commenced, he saw our friend the poodle coming slowly
up the aisle dripping with water, having been obliged to swim a quarter
of a mile to get there.
It is not very difficult to teach a dog to go on errands. Suppose you
wish him to go to market for you of a morning; take him with you
regularly for a few mornings, letting him carry the basket. In a few
days he will understand when you start where it is you propose to go,
and will, perhaps, run on ahead and arrive there some minutes before
you. It would be well on all occasions before starting to give the
command, “Go to market,” which will accustom him to it.
We do not vouch for the truth of the story of the dog who, on being
given—when purchasing one time on his own account, with money given him
for that purpose—a piece of meat inferior to what he considered his due,
went and brought a policeman.
TO BRING HIS TAIL IN HIS MOUTH.
The dog having been taught to fetch and carry, an amusing application of
this knowledge can be made by having him bring his own tail in his
mouth. This trick is exceedingly funny and is always hailed with roars
of laughter. The feat is rather difficult for while his tail is in his
mouth, the dog can only advance in something like crab fashion, or
sideways, with an almost irresistible tendency to go around in a circle
without getting ahead any. To attain success in teaching this trick the
dog must be gifted with a good deal of tail, and the trainer with a good
deal of patience. Dogs will in play grasp their tails, and most persons
have noticed while frolicking with a dog that if the dog’s tail be taken
hold of with one’s hand, the dog will attempt to seize the hand with his
mouth, and if his tail be now dexterously placed in his way, he will
seize that. This perhaps first suggested the idea of the trick, and this
is the initial step of the training. When the dog takes hold of his tail
praise him, and after he has held it a little while bid him “let go,”
and reward him. Should he relinquish his hold before you order him to,
speak sharply to him and commence again. When he has learned to retain
hold of his tail until ordered to relinquish it, the more difficult part
of his lesson may be taught—the bringing it to the trainer. The trainer
at first takes his place a few feet from the dog in the direction in
which the dog can most easily advance, and calls the dog; should he let
go his tail to come, he is to be scolded, and the tail replaced in his
mouth. When he comes without letting go, he should be rewarded.
Gradually the distance he is required to come may be increased, but it
would be cruel to make this distance more than half a dozen yards. When
the tail is placed in his mouth it is well to say, “Bring me your tail,”
to accustom him to the order. By-and-by when you give this order merely
hold his tail for him to grasp, and at last let him seize it without any
assistance from you.
THE ROLLING BALL.
There are several modifications of this trick, or rather there are
several feats all performed with this instrument—a globe of wood or
other material some two feet in diameter. One of these feats consists in
the dog standing with his hind feet upon the ground, and resting his
paws on the ball, pushing it forward, or up and down an inclined plane.
This is easily taught, and the only difficult part of the performance is
the descent of the inclined plane, where the ball is apt to roll away
from the animal. To teach this trick it is only requisite to place the
dog’s paws upon the ball and set it slowly in motion; as you do this tap
his hind legs gently from behind to urge him to step forward. It may be
necessary to hold him in position by the nape of the neck at first, but
he should very soon learn to retain his position without this aid. When
he rolls the ball readily upon a level, substitute a wide plank very
slightly inclined, up which he should be required to roll the ball.
Increase the inclination of the plank slightly with each lesson, but the
descent should only be attempted after he has been thoroughly drilled in
the preceding exercises. It will be necessary to commence with a very
slight inclination and to promptly stop the ball should the dog begin to
lose control of it. The width of the plank may be decreased eventually
to some ten or twelve inches.
To stand entirely upon the ball while it is in motion, and to propel it
backward and forward, and up and down the inclined plane, starting and
stopping it as well as guiding its motions in the desired direction—is a
more difficult feat. In this the dog must be practiced in standing upon
the ball while it has no motion; in several lessons in this just the
barest possible motion is to be given to the ball while a slight hold
upon the dog’s neck keeps him in position. The motion may be slowly
increased with each lesson, but the ball must for many lessons be held
firmly with the hand to prevent it becoming unmanageable. When the dog
becomes able to maintain his position he may be required to manage the
ball without any assistance. In all cases where he gets down from the
ball, accidentally or willfully, he should be spoken to sharply, but the
trainer should be equally prompt to praise and reward success.
TO WALK ON STILTS.
The stilts used in this trick are about twelve or fifteen inches in
length, made to fasten to the leg just below the knee joint, with tape
or thin flexible leather straps. When four are used there is no
particular training required to make the dog walk upon them; it being
only necessary to put him “on his pins” again whenever he upsets. The
tumble is sufficient punishment for his failures. Walking man fashion on
only two stilts is a much more difficult task, though it has been
accomplished in some cases. The dog should be first thoroughly taught
the walking erect trick, then stilts may be put on his hind legs. A cord
attached to his collar and held in the trainer’s hand will aid in
maintaining the dog’s balance until he becomes accustomed to his novel
position. Of course the dog cannot raise himself upon the stilts, but
must be placed erect by the trainer. The farther training is similar to
that described for teaching him to walk erect. A story is told of a dog
who actually found a wooden leg of practical use; one having been
furnished him by a whimsical surgeon who had amputated an injured limb
for him.
TO GO UP AND DOWN A LADDER.
[Illustration: CLIMBING THE LADDER.]
In teaching this trick two ladders should be provided about six feet in
length and joined together at the top ends so as to form an angle when
the other ends are placed on the ground. The bars of these ladders
should be flat and sufficiently near together to enable the dog easily
to step from one round to another. Standing at the side of this ladder
with a switch in your right hand you whistle to the dog, or call him by
name, and tap the first round of the ladder with your switch to indicate
he is to step upon it. When he places his fore paws on this round, tap
the next in the same manner, saying, “Go on,” to him. If he does not
obey strike his hind legs lightly from behind, while you encourage him
with your voice and snap your fingers in front of him to urge him
forward. A tid-bit of some kind held in tempting proximity to his nose
may have an encouraging effect. After ascending one ladder he should be
made to go down the other. He will be inclined to jump to the ground in
preference to descending step by step; should he do this he must be
punished and made to commence over again. When on the ladder if he
hesitates about proceeding gently tap the toes of the foot he should
next advance. When two dogs have been taught to go over the ladders a
race may be arranged, the dog who first goes three times over to be
rewarded. The dogs will soon understand that when they are both ordered
to go over, speed is expected; the dainty given to the winner will be an
incentive to exertion. By making one dog go up to where the ladders
join, turning half around and forming an arch of his body, the other dog
can go over the ladders, passing beneath the belly of the “arch.” This
is a very trifling feat but it generally pleases an audience.
The ladder climbing forms really the principal part of the celebrated
siege scene, performed by dogs and monkeys. This scene, we believe, was
first enacted in London in the year 1753, by a troupe of dogs and
monkeys which acquired considerable celebrity by their performances.
They were owned by a lady, who had also taught them, and went by the
name of Mrs. Midnight’s Animal Commedians. A small stage was specially
fitted up for their performances, furnished with scenery, decorations,
etc., and to these adjuncts was no doubt due much of the success of the
troupe. The performance was much like modern ones; the tricks are all
included in this chapter and the one on monkeys; the famous siege being
only a clever combination of the different tricks. Each animal was
taught a particular part and merely obeyed the signals of the
exhibition.
TO STAND ON HIS HEAD AND TO WALK ON HIS FORE LEGS.
[Illustration: WALKING ON FORE LEGS.]
The term “standing on the head” is applied to a “wrong end up” position
though the animal is actually supported by his fore paws, his head not
necessarily touching the ground. To teach the trick, provide yourself
with a switch twenty inches in length, and moderately stout. This
switch, held in your right hand, you place under the dog’s belly, and
while you raise up his hind quarters with it, you place your left hand
on his head to keep him from moving away, and to make him retain his
reversed position. As the dog rises into position the switch should be
gradually carried along until it supports his hind feet. This is the
process for the first few lessons, until the dog understands what is
required; after that it is better merely to tap his ankles from in front
with your switch, giving at the same time whatever order you have
accustomed him to in teaching the trick. He should eventually take the
position without any hint or help from the switch.
When the preceeding trick is thoroughly mastered, the walking part may
be easily added. Taking your position a little in front of your pupil
when he is in his upside-down position, you encourage him to come to
you. At the same time you must keep your switch in handy proximity to
his toes, which you tap lightly on any signs of his relinquishing his
position. By-and-by he may be made to walk quite a distance.
TO “SING.”
When a dog howls _in time_, we think it fair to call his performance
“singing.” Dogs may be taught to do this; at least they have been, and
it is reasonable to presume it may be done again. In only one case of
this kind do we know positively the mode of tuition, but it was probably
pretty much the same in all cases. This consisted in keeping the dog
without food until his appetite was quite sharp. When food was shown
him, he naturally whined for it. Now, a dog may be made to whine, howl,
or bark, if you make any of those noises yourself; almost any dog will
imitate you, and not only that, but the pitch and style of noise he
makes will be somewhat regulated by that made by you. The hungry dog is
in prime mental condition for this exercise, and if rewarded when he
hits pretty near upon the right degree of noise, he will learn to follow
your tones quite accurately. If exercised in a regular scale, or in a
simple tune, he will by-and-by go through it without requiring your
prompting, with sufficient accuracy to be recognized—if the hearers know
beforehand what melody to expect.
It is not pretended, of course, that dogs trained as above described, do
anything but repeat a series of noises mechanically in a prescribed
rotation. We find recorded, however, one instance of a dog learning to
discriminate between the different notes, and to detect false ones in a
musical performance. The story seems improbable, but may be true;
however, it is worth telling:
“Frederick Schwartz, a merchant retired from business in Darmstadt,
occupied his leisure hours, which were many, almost exclusively with
music. His passion for the art acquired such an intensity that he
required every one about him to fall in with his musical predilections
by either vocal or instrumental coöperation. Poodle, the dog, was the
only one unable to render any musical assistance. As worthy Herr
Schwartz felt the utter impossibility of making Poodle afford any
practical aid, he determined to train him to fill the office of critic
in his own harmonious community. He succeeded, too, by an ingenious
method. Whenever a note out of tune proceeded from a voice or an
instrument; every time that a musical fault was committed by any member
of the family—and such faults were committed purposely—the rod was
applied to Poodle’s back, and he naturally began to bark and howl. He
was exactly in the position of the whipping boy, who pursued his studies
with the royal prince. Whenever the prince made a grammatical blunder,
the whipping boy had to smart for it. Before long, simple threats were
substituted for smitings of his (Poodle’s) back; afterward a look
sufficed to set the creature barking; and little by little Poodle
familiarized himself with wrong notes and other musical atrocities,
until at last a mistake could not be committed without his rebuking it
either by a bark or a growl. He thus became, as far as music was
concerned, the most impartial judge, the most conscientious critic in
the whole grand duchy of Hesse Darmstadt.
“Unfortunately, his appreciation of musical art was completely and
solely negative. He bestowed no praise, but only blame. Sing with
expression, perform with talent, the dog would remain impassive and
cold; but at the slightest incorrectness of intonation he ground his
teeth, lashed his tail, growled, yelped, and barked aloud. So long as he
flourished—and he may flourish still—not a concert or an opera was
rehearsed in Darmstadt without inviting Herr Frederick Schwartz and his
dog—but more especially the dog. If the prima donna made the slightest
slip, the dog looked at his master with an air of disapprobation. If the
hautboys came in too late, Poodle pricked up his ears; if the clarionet
hurried the movement, Poodle fidgeted on his bench; if the
kettle-drummer broke the time, Poodle uttered audible murmurs. In fact,
no piece was considered properly executed unless the canine connoisseur
remained quiet on his seat.
“Nor must it be supposed that Poodle’s instinct was limited to forming a
judgment of the execution only. His intelligence, trained by hearing
classical works, seemed to have penetrated some of the secrets of
composition. An abrupt modulation, a false resolution, would produce
symptoms of doubt on Poodle’s muzzle; consecutive fifths made him
shudder, and a halting melody set his teeth on edge. Sometimes Herr
Schwartz and his intimate friends, in the privacy of a snug little
quartette party, would amuse themselves by producing discordant sounds,
for the sake of tormenting the sensitive animal. On such occasions
Poodle lost all self-command: his hair stood on end, his eyes became
bloodshot, and frightful howlings answered to the discord produced by
the fiddles of the mystificators. Moreover, they were obliged to keep
within certain bounds. Poodle possessed only a limited stock of
forbearance. If the cacophony was too intense or too prolonged, Poodle,
carrying out his sense of duty, upset everything. Music-stands,
music-stools, and instruments, were strewed in confusion about the
room.”
THE LUMP OF SUGAR TRICK.
This consists in placing a lump of sugar on the dog’s nose, and having
him toss it up and catch it in his mouth. It is not essential that sugar
should be used; any other dainty will do as well, indeed a piece of meat
will answer better in teaching the trick. In teaching, hold your switch
under the dog’s chin, and tap him whenever he tries to lower his head to
let the meat drop. If he does not presently jerk his head up, and so
throw the morsel into the air, you should strike him under the chin a
pretty smart rap to make him do so. When it leaves his nose there will
be no instruction required to make him seize it promptly before it has a
chance to reach the ground; should it, however, touch the ground, it is
well to take it from him, and make him toss it again.
TO FEIGN DEATH.
A dog may be placed on his back or in almost any other posture, and by
speaking sharply to him and threatening him with your forefinger, you
can prevent his changing his position. In this manner the trick of
feigning death is taught. If a special word of command be used when
placing him, he will learn to take the position on hearing that command.