CHAPTER IX.

SPORTING DOGS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT AND TRAINING.

The pointer and the setter are the two universally recognized dogs for

hunting game birds. As to which of the two is the better variety

authorities differ, and much depends upon circumstances. For hot

climates the pointer has more endurance than the setter, but he is also

more tender and would suffer in a cold climate. Pointers do not require

so careful training, and with sportsmen who are, as is the case with

many, loose in their manner of training, a pointer will be a passably

well behaved dog where, with the same laxity, a setter would be utterly

worthless. As the value of a dog in hunting depends in such a great

degree upon his proper understanding of the work in hand, and his prompt

and faithful execution of the duties incumbent upon him, too much pains

cannot be taken with his training.

PRELIMINARY TRAINING.

The education of sporting dogs should begin in earliest puppyhood.

Unless they are early taught obedience, it will be difficult to overcome

this neglect by after training. His first lesson may be given with the

aid of a piece of beef placed before him on a plate. Naturally he will

evince an eagerness to obtain it. Prevent his doing so, by gently

tapping him upon the head, at the same time cry, “toho!” By repeating

this word each time you check his eagerness, he is taught to associate

the slap with the word and to stop when the word is used. This makes the

“point.” In a few moments after you must cry, “hie on,” and allow him to

seize the meat. “Steady” is the next lesson, and consists in allowing

him slowly to approach the plate as you keep repeating the word at short

intervals. When near the plate cry, “toho,” and never allow him to reach

the meat until you give the command, “hie on!” When you wish him to

break his point but not to “pitch in” to the meat, the command, “close

on” should be used. Before he reaches the plate, cry, “toho,” and then,

“hie on;” when he has pointed, by “close on” he must understand that he

is to move cautiously, and this he is taught by the oft repeated command

of “steady.” All these commands may be taught with patience, and

patience is absolutely necessary. No harshness should be used, and no

new lesson should be attempted until the old one is fully mastered. You

should always feed the dog yourself.

When the preceding lessons are thoroughly acquired, “charge” may be

taught. Gently force him down as you give the command, extend his fore

paws and gently place his head between them. Each time he moves, tap him

lightly and repeat the command. No more force should be used than is

absolutely requisite. Practice him frequently by crying,

“charge—charge,” with your hand upraised, and forcing him into the

desired position. To make him rise, you should cry, “hie up,” and gently

raise him. Repeat these instructions until they are fully understood and

readily obeyed, doing a little each day, but doing that thoroughly.

To retrieve is the next lesson to be taught. An old glove or other soft

substance should be used, and after allowing the pup to play with it,

toss it from you and he will rush to get it. Call him to you after he

has got it, and take it from him, rewarding him with caresses and kind

words. Repeat this plan using the command, “hie fetch,” when you wish

him to go, and “come in,” when you wish him to return. By using the

command, “come in,” on all occasions when he is a little distance from

you—when you call him to feed him—etc., he will learn to obey it. Hooper

in his excellent work[1] gives the following directions for teaching a

dog to retrieve: “Begin by placing your glove within his mouth, making

him retain it; if he rejects it, replace it, gently correcting him,

crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ After he understands the meaning of the word

fetch you may let him accompany you in a walk, in some quiet place.

Whenever he drops the glove you must gently and encouragingly replace

it, crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ If he rejects it the lash must be used, but

sparingly. If you study the disposition of your dog and manage properly,

he will soon perfectly understand you, and gaily and happily gambol

alongside of you, seldom dropping his charge, and if he should, he will

only need the words, ‘hie fetch! fetch!’ to make him bound back with

eagerness to regain the lost glove. You may now take the glove, cast it

from you, and tell him to ‘hie, fetch!’ He will immediately return with

the glove. You may now let him see you drop the glove, walk off thirty

or forty yards, wave your hand in the direction of the glove, and cry,

‘hie, fetch!’ He will of course regain the glove. After practising him

at this often, you may drop the glove unobserved by him. He will soon

follow your track for a considerable distance for a lost article, by

receiving the command, ‘hie, fetch!’ You may now give the glove to

another person to hide, first permitting the dog to see it in his

possession, and he will be almost certain to find it, if it is at all

accessible. In your first lessons be careful to place the glove where

your dog will be certain to find it—not too far off.”

Footnote 1:

DOG AND GUN.—Price thirty cents, post paid. An interesting and useful

work for every amateur sportsman.

[Illustration: THE SETTER.]

He should also be taught to follow closely on at the sportsman’s heel

when they are out together; this may be done by saying, “back, back!”

and striking him gently with the whip when he attempts to press forward.

Any hunting dog may be taught to retrieve notwithstanding the complaints

some sportsmen make to the contrary. Great patience is required to teach

the dog, but the result of careful training amply compensates for the

trouble. Hooper recommends that, after the dog has learned the preceding

lessons, he be made to practice them often, playing with a ball.

LESSONS IN THE FIELD.

After the dog has been thoroughly drilled in the preliminary exercises

we have described, it will be necessary to teach him their practical

application. Much of the future value and usefulness of the dog depends

upon his first day’s shooting and the manner in which he is initiated

into the sport. We again avail ourselves of Mr. Hooper’s instructions

for managing him the first day he is taken out:

“When you observe Dash more excited than usual, you may reasonably

expect a bevy near. They will not probably be far off, as he has not

become accustomed to the familiar and welcome scent that will enable him

to wind them at a distance. Now comes the trying hour for master and

pupil. The former should be perfectly cool, and should consider the

killing of game a secondary affair—let him give his attention to Dash.

The dog seems too eager for the scent—you cry ‘steady! steady!’—if he is

apparently near the game, and you are afraid he will flush, you cry

‘toho!’ You approach and find the quail do not raise—you tell him to

close on, which he does by moving rather rapidly—you check him by crying

‘steady! steady!’ he points, ‘toho!’ You now approach and flush the

bevy; be sure you bring down one bird, and it will be well that you only

fire one barrel, that you may have more time to look after Dash, who of

course scampers after the whirring bevy. You immediately cry ‘toho! come

in!’—on, on he goes; in his wild excitement he disregards your will

entirely. You now use your whistle. By this time the birds are out of

sight (but you, of course, have marked them), and he is running helter

skelter. You must soon get hold of his collar, drag him rather roughly

back to where he pointed—lashing him slightly—and make him ‘charge,’ and

keep his position until you reload; after which you will take him to

where your bird has fallen—indicate the place with your hand, crying

‘hie, fetch! fetch! fetch!’ From his previous lessons he will know that

you wish him to look for something, and his nose will soon tell him what

it is. Do not let him mouth or toy with it, or he will soon get in the

habit of roughly mouthing your game, than which I scarcely know a worse

habit.

“You may now rest for a short time, that the bevy may get over their

fright; after which they will be more easily found, for if they have

been very much frightened, they will not give out sufficient odor to

enable your pupil to point well, and he may consequently flush them,

thereby doing great harm. You cannot do better than to spend your time

in repeating your house training with the dead quail: casting it from

you, telling him to ‘close on! steady! charge! hie on! fetch!’ Cast it

some distance unobserved—waft your hand in the proper direction, and

tell him ‘hie, fetch! fetch! fetch!’ After a short time has elapsed, you

may take Dash to where you have marked the birds. When near the birds,

keep Dash near you, that he may be the more easily controlled. If he

seem too eager he only needs the command of ‘steady!’ to control him.

Let the command be in rather an undertone—never get into the snobbish

habit of _bawling_ at your dog. Apart from its being an ungentlemanly

habit, it frightens the quail more or less, and they will not lie so

well to the dog. Ha! but Dash has _come_ down to a point most

beautifully, ‘toho!’ You carefully approach, flush and shoot the bird,

and immediately give your attention to the dog, crying ‘charge!’ in a

strong and emphatic tone; if he breaks, get hold of his collar as soon

as possible and lash him, and at the same time drag him to his ‘point’

and make him ‘charge’ and keep his position until you reload. You then

cry ‘hie up,’ make friends with him, and cast him off—he soon points

again. You manage to get very near the dog, and when you fire,

immediately cry ‘charge!’ and it would be well to accompany ‘the word

with a blow,’ at this juncture. You make him charge, reload, cry ‘hie

up,’ indicate the point where the bird has fallen, and command him to

‘hie fetch!’ You cast him off again, and _always_ manage to control him

after you fire—_never, never_ suffering him to break shot without

feeling the lash. Remember this is the most critical time for yourself

and dog. Never suffer yourself to become excited; do not for some time

fire more than one barrel, that you may sooner give your attention to

Dash, and you will accomplish much if you can be near enough to Dash to

give him the lash as he first springs from the point, at the same time

crying ‘charge!’ If you do not suffer yourself to become excited, and

lose sight of your dog after your shot, you will soon have him drop at

the report of the gun; but rest assured, if you let him have his own way

a few times, in your eagerness to secure game, you will rue it for many

a day to come. You cannot have this fact too strongly impressed upon

yourself. If you control him _from the first_, your object will be

attained. If Dash evinces unusual perverseness in this, it will be well

to make him ‘charge’ while on a ‘point.’ Even should he see a dead bird

fall, he should not retrieve without permission.”

It is a maxim in hunting never to allow a dog to run ahead of another in

a point, but either to make him back, or come in to heel. Besides the

danger of flushing your game, it would be permitting an unfair advantage

to be taken of the dog doing his duty in the lead, of both which a dog

of nice sensibility will show himself to be conscious. It happened, some

years since, that a party was out, near Old Point Comfort in Virginia,

with a fine pointer belonging to Mr. A——. A small terrier had

accompanied them, and whenever the pointer would take his stand, the

terrier would rush by him, and put up the birds. Repeating this

vexatious, ungentlemanly conduct several times, the pointer was seen to

grow impatient. At last having found another bevy, as the terrier

attempted to pass him, the pointer seized him, and placing his fore paws

on him, held him fast, growling to keep him quiet, and maintaining his

point until the sportsmen came up.

WATER DOGS.

The Newfoundland is unquestionably the water dog par excellence, and

probably the best individuals of the variety are the celebrated dogs

used for duck shooting on the margin of Chesapeake Bay and commonly

called the Chesapeake Bay Water Dog. These animals being derived from

ancestors of pure breed, and the constant training from generation to

generation having caused the transmission of their excellent qualities

in increased measure to each successive generation, are probably

unrivalled by any other in their particular forte. Owing to thoughtless

and injudicious mixing of breeds a true Newfoundland is rarely seen.

Although the purer the breed the better water dog he will be, yet many

dogs of mixed breeds possessing considerable Newfoundland blood, make

excellent dogs for ordinary aquatic sporting.

On breeding the water dog little need be said, for, like Dogberry’s

reading and writing, his education “comes by nature.” In his infancy he

may be taught to bring a glove and lay it down at your feet as he should

do; and, by practice, the comprehension and fulfillment of his various

duties will soon follow. He will be found, with judicious encouragement

and exercise of authority, more docile than a child. They have been

known at four months old to fetch a duck, but lest the constitution be

impaired, they should not be put too early at hard service.

“Canton,” a celebrated Newfoundland, owned by Dr. Stewart, of Sparrow’s

Point—a great sportsman in his day—was noted for a number of remarkable

feats in securing “canvas backs” on the Chesapeake. She surpassed her

species generally in unrivalled devotion to the water, and to the sport

of ducking, as carried on by the doctor’s colored man, Varnell, with his

murderous swivel gun. Her patience and endurance were almost incredible.

She was the heroine of many desperate encounters with wounded swans,

often pursuing them for miles, and many were her exploits among rotten

and floating ice, in pursuit of wounded ducks, sometimes, in fogs and

darkness. On one occasion she brought out twenty-two or twenty-three

ducks, all killed or wounded by Varnell at a single shot. A good deal of

time was lost in pursuing these wounded ducks, and at the close of this

pursuit, it being then dark, Varnell gave up the slut as lost, so many

hours had she been engaged in bringing out her game; but after Varnell

had sorrowfully turned his face homeward, she overtook him with one or

two ducks in her mouth; and the old doctor stated that he remembered

Varnell saying that at one time, when she was most fatigued, she climbed

on a cake of floating ice, and after resting herself on it, renewed the

pursuit of the ducks.

Haney's Art of Training Animals A Practical Guide for Amateur or Professional Trainers. Giving Full Instructions for Breaking, Taming and Teaching All Kinds of Animals Including an Improved Method of Horse Breaking, Management of Farm Animals, Training of Sporting Dogs; Serpent Charming, Care and Tuition of Talking, Singing and Performing Birds; and Detailed Instructions for Teaching All Circus Tricks, and Many Other Wonderful Feats. · 第 9 / 25 章