THE PARTY DESCENDS INTO A VALLEY FALLING NORTHWARD.--COMES UPON A CHAIN
OF PONDS.--THE HEAD OF THE RIVER BELYANDO.--FOLLOW IT DOWN, THROUGH MUCH
WATER SCARCE AT FIRST, IN ITS BED.--RANGE OF HILLS VISIBLE TO THE
EASTWARD.--CROSS THE TROPIC OF CAPRICORN.--MOUNT NARRIEN.--OPEN PLAINS,
WEST OF THE RIVER.--WATER MORE PLENTIFUL.--NEW PLANTS DISCOVERED.--DRY
CHANNEL OF A LARGE RIVER JOINS FROM S.W.--CROSS IT AND PROCEED N.W.--FROM
A HEIGHT OBTAIN A VIEW OF THE NORTHERN HORIZON.--MUCH BRIGALOW SCRUB
TRAVERSED.--REACH THE RIVER BY MOONLIGHT.--FOLLOW THE CHANNEL MORE
CLOSELY.--COME UPON LARGE REACHES OF WATER.--ANOTHER DRY CHANNEL JOINS
FROM W.S.W.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE BEYOND IT, TO THE NORTH-WEST.--CROSS
FINE DOWNS.--LIMESTONE IN A THICK SCRUB.--ENTER THICK BRIGALOW.--NIGHT
WITHOUT WATER.--NEXT DAY MEET WITH THE RIVER.--ITS COURSE BEING EASTWARD
OF NORTH, DETERMINE TO RETURN.--NATIVES.--RETRACE OUR TRACK TO THE
PYRAMIDS, IN ORDER TO EXPLORE MORE TO THE WESTWARD.--PREPARE TO DEPART,
WITH TWO MEN AND YURANIGH.--WRITE DESPATCH TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT.
20TH JULY.--AFTER a little trouble with the gullies and brigalow scrub,
on first setting off, we came upon fine undulating open forest land, and
crossed many a gully and small water-course, all declining towards the
N.E. A very remarkable flat-topped hill appeared on our right, resembling
a wart, on one of these ridges; to the northward it was precipitous, and
seemed to consist of a very red rock. At length, after crossing a ridge
rather broader than the rest, with some brigalow scrub upon it, and one
or two specimens of that tree of solitary places, the bottle tree,
(DELABECHEA) we arrived at valleys and water-courses descending to the
southward of west, into a valley turning to the N.W. One, at length, on
our right, taking the direction in which I was proceeding, viz., 10° W.
of N., I followed it down, and thus entered a broader valley leading N.W.
Following this, on a wide flat of open forest, we found at length a fine
pond of water in it, and encamped beside it, after a journey of about
twelve miles. This valley seemed to continue to the base of the lofty
isolated mountain already mentioned, where a lower valley crossed it,
falling either to the northward or southward. This I left in pleasing
uncertainty until next morning, for I had remarked in that locality, when
I stood on Mount Mudge, a long line of grey mist running north and south.
I named the large mountain beyond that valley, Mount Beaufort, in honour
of my scientific friend at the Admiralty. Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°;
at noon, 66°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 62°. (LIII.)
21ST JULY.--On following downwards the chain of ponds and broad valley,
we came upon the bed of a river, running to the N.N.E. We gladly turned
in that direction, and after it had received various tributaries from the
south, I found it took the course I had foreseen it must from Mount
Mudge. We saw water in the channel, and now again I believed that we had
at length discovered the head of a northwestern river. The soil consisted
of firm clay, and tributaries occasionally impeded our journey. We got
amongst brigalow scrub, and could find no water in looking for the
channel of the river, which we knew must still have been on our left.
Ponds in the scrub could not easily be identified as channels. I met with
no better success on turning to the left, and encamped amongst the
brigalow, where I found some grass. On riding westward I came upon arid
stony ground, on which many of the trees were dead, apparently from
drought, and so near the Tropic such a scene was by no means encouraging.
On turning my horse, he trod on an old heap of fresh watermussles, at an
old fireplace of the natives. This was a cheering proof that water was
not distant, which was further indicated by the flight of two native
companions, from the N.W. We had encamped on a flat of clay, on which
salsolaceous bushes, such as grew on similar plains on the Bogan, had
been growing, but were then all withered from drought. The very grass
seemed parched and useless. I never saw vegetation so checked by drought.
A longer continuance was likely to kill all the trees, and convert the
country into open downs. I determined, before I ventured further, to send
the cattle to a pond four miles back, next morning, and to examine the
country before us. Latitude, 23° 48' 36". Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°;
at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 48°.
22D JULY.--Having sent bullocks, horses, and sheep back to the water, I
went forward on the bearing of 30° W. of N. I soon fell in with the
united channel of the river, and found in it abundant ponds of water, the
direction of the course being as favourable as could be wished. From
these ponds I perceived a clear hill to the westward, which I hastened to
ascend, and from its summit I beheld some fine mountains to the
northward, although an easterly wind and sea air brought a haze over
them, which soon obscured some of my points. But I saw enough to relieve
me of all anxiety at that time about the want of water. A promising
valley from the mountains in the eastward, came due west, and from it
arose the smoke of many natives' fires. Lines of other rivers, from other
ranges, were partly visible beyond, until the haze obscured the outlines
of mountains still more remote. The bright prospects of this morning were
a pleasing contrast to the temporary difficulties of yesterday. Such is
human life in travelling, and so it was in war at Salamanca this day
thirty-four years back. We encamped after a short journey on the bank of
the river. Latitude, 24° 46' 46". Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°, at noon,
74°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at 9, 64°. (LIV.)
23D JULY.--The water in the adjacent pond was trodden into mud, so that
none remained for the horses and bullocks this morning. Accordingly, on
arriving at a pond about two miles on, we gave water to all, that they
might better bear the privation in the afternoon, should we not
fortunately find more. The river had a singular tendency to spread into
little channels within a belt of brigalow scrub. The little holes formed
by these channels were almost all dry, while the withered state of the
grass, and even of the forest trees, showed that rain had long been due,
and we therefore hoped some would fall before our return. When we had
travelled about twelve miles, keeping as close to the river line as the
scrub would permit, and crossing one or two fine rising grounds covered
with a very open forest, and consisting of large gravel, I found a pond,
and encamped near it, on a plain of almost naked clay. Amongst the water-
worn pebbles, of which the rising ground consisted, there were, besides
the ingredients of the Barwan gravel, many of trap and basalt. Very old
and dry grass only, could be had for the cattle. In the pond were small
fishes of a different form from any we had seen, having a large forked
tail, only two or three spikes in the dorsal fin, and a large jet-black
eye within a broad silvery ring. Mr. Stephenson found three crabs,
apparently identical with those about the inlets near Sydney. Latitude,
23° 37' 51". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 46°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P.M. 80;
at 9, 55°. (LV.)
24TH JULY.--The morning was overcast by heavy clouds, and the air was
balmy and mild, reminding us of the spring season near Sydney. Lightning
had been seen to the northward during the night. In following the little
wayward channel downward, we met with much brigalow scrub, and crossed
two apparently important tributaries. In one of them was a good large
pond. We had some trouble with an ana-branch, resembling the main
channel, which we had twice to cross at a distance of two miles. With the
last tributaries, plains and an open forest country became neighbours to
the river; and where we encamped beside it, no scrub was to be seen, and
the water lay in a deep broad reach, nearly half a mile in length, with
ducks upon it. Towards evening, the unwonted sound of thunder was heard
in the west, reminding us, at this season of the year, that we were near
the Tropic. In the same direction, two distant storms exhausted
themselves, and most likely giving birth to young grass where they fell.
During the night, much thunder was heard, and also early next morning, to
the northward. Latitude, 23° 31' S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
noon, 75°; at 4, P.M., 82°; at 9, 66°. (LVI.)
25TH JULY.--There was no hill or other geographical feature near our
route, whereby it might have been possible to mark there the limit of
Tropical Australia. We were the first to enter the interior beyond that
line. Three large kangaroos hopping across a small plain, were visible,
just as we entered these regions of the sun. The air was extremely
fragrant; the shrubs and grass being still moist with the thunder-shower.
The course of the river continued favourable, and the country seemed to
improve as we advanced, opening into plains skirted by scrubs of
rosewood, and drooping shrubs whose verdure was most refreshing to the
eye, after just having passed through dry and withered brigalow. At eight
miles a large lagoon appeared on our left, on which we saw many ducks,
and at nine miles we encamped where the grass seemed good, finding that
water was at hand now, in the river bed, wherever we required it.
Latitude, 23° 25' 26" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 45°; at noon, 77°; at 4
P.M., 85°; at 9, 53°. (LVII.)
26TH JULY.--The river appearing to pursue a W. N.W. course, I set out in
that direction, attracted there, also, by some open plain separated by
scrub from the river. We travelled on, a good many miles, when, instead
of the firm clay, we found, under foot soft, red sand, and trees of the
genus callitris growing in close thickets. I turned to the northward, and
travelled many miles to the eastward of north, without seeing any
indications of the river, whose general course had been previously
straight. Scrubs of almost every description lay in our way. Brigalow,
rosewood, casuarina, a thick light-green scrub of a close-growing bush,
new to us, and some scrubs of the tree as yet undescribed for want of
flowers or fruit, although well known to us as a graceful, and, indeed;
useful bush; of which, as an impediment, we could not much complain; and
useful, as forming excellent whip-shafts. This is the tree of unknown
fruit figured in my former journal. At length, when it was growing late,
I travelled eastward to make sure of the river, and, at length, regained
its banks, where we found in its bed plenty of water. The surface looked
bare, and the grass dry; but this day I discovered green shoots amongst
it, evidently the product of recent rain, and indicating the approach of
spring. On sandstone rocks, we found a plant which Sir William Hooker
terms "a singular Euphorbiaceous (?) plant[*]," destitute of flower and
fruit. Branches very thick, and they, as well as the long petioles and
underside of the leaves clothed with dense white wool. Leaves a span
long, cordato acuminate; the laminae all pointing downwards, glossy green
and glabrous above. Also a new DODONOEA, with very narrow, linear,
pinnated leaves. The only hills visible, from a tree ascended by
Yuranigh, during this day's journey were those to the eastward, already
seen. None appeared above the horizon in any other direction.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 79°; at 4 P.M., 89°; at 9, 75°.
(LVIII,)
[* D. TENUIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); glaberrima, viscosa, ramulis angulatis,
foliis impari pinnatis: foliolis 3-5-jugis linearibus obtusis
subalternis.]
27TH JULY.--The same characteristic, still distinguished our river; a
variety of channels, so concatenated amongst brigalow scrub, much whereof
lay dead, that it was scarcely possible to ascertain whether there was
any main channel. Hitherto, I had not detected one; but this was of
little consequence to us, so long as these ponds contained abundance of
water. This we saw in many parts of our route this day; for I kept as
close as possible to the river's course, to avoid such detours as that of
yesterday, and being very anxious about the river's general direction, I
was glad to find it turn somewhat westward of north. After travelling
thus about nine miles, I perceived a blue pic nearly due north, which I
named Mount Narrien; and Yuranigh saw from a tree, that there was a range
in the same direction, but very distant. This seemed likely not only to
send down some additional waters to our river, but also to turn it
westward. Entering, soon after, upon a plain of good grass, I looked for
water; and, on finding some, encamped after a journey of about eleven
miles. Latitude, 23° 9'S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at noon, 83°; at
4 P.M., 90°; at 9, 53°. (LIX.)
28TH JULY.--The brigalow scrub, still a concomitant of our river, so
hemmed in the patch of plain, that I was obliged to move out of it, in a
southerly direction. Even thus, however, the scrub was not to be avoided,
and we were obliged to force a way through, where the still more
formidable impediment of much fallen timber, rendered it almost
impossible that our vehicles could pass. This dead wood seemed peculiar
to that sort of brigalow, and appeared to remain unburnt, chiefly from
the usually naked surface of the ground where brigalow grows. I left the
party, when brought almost to a stand, and sought for a more open part,
by riding northward. This rather singular river seemed to have spread
over a considerable extent of surface, and much of the brigalow, however
fond of water, appeared to have died of too much, on spots which had been
flooded. I traversed a plain, beyond which I found, what seemed there,
the main chain of ponds or channel. There was a fine reach of water, and
beside it, were the still smoking fires, water-vessels, etc., of a tribe
of natives, who had disappeared. On the plain, the remains of decayed
stumps of brigalow showed that there also, this tree had once grown, and
that the openings were caused only by such trees perishing; as if,
according to seasons, the half-dead scrub might either give place to open
downs, or, that the plains might, by long succession of regular seasons,
become again covered with scrub. I returned to the party halted in the
scrub, and conducted it through an opening I had found, to the plain, and
across it, in a N.W. direction; where, after passing through some open
forest, we had again to contend with brigalow. One of the many dry
channels assisted us much in seeking openings, as the bottom then
consisted of smooth, firm, clay. A pond, however, obliged us to quit it,
and seek our way through the wood. We arrived next at slightly undulating
ground, and finally entered an open forest, where I saw the LORANTHUS
SUBFALCATUS of Sir William Hooker. I made Yuranigh climb a tree, from
whence he again saw the pic seen yesterday, (the bearing of which I
ascertained), and also a gap appeared in the range beside it, through
which, as he thought, a river was likely to come down. The extreme
westerly escarp of these hills bore 17° E. of N., so that nothing was
likely to impede the continued course of our friendly river in the
direction we wished. The scrub we met with on the rising ground,
consisted of the verdant bushes in rosewood scrubs, and we next found
brigalow all dead, with a rich crop of grass growing amongst the dead
stems. I had never seen grass, amongst brigalow, when in a healthy state.
On turning northward, we next entered upon an open plain covered with
good grass mixed with verdant polygonum. I selected a corner of this
plain, nearest to the river, for my camp; and, on approaching its bed,
found water as usual, near some old huts of the natives. Latitude, 23° 5'
20" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 88°; at 9,
58°. (XL.)
29TH JULY.--The scrub between our camp and the river, admitted of easy
access from it to open forest ground, over which we travelled in a N.W.
direction for several miles. Belts of scrub, consisting of rosewood and
other acacias intervened, and, in some parts, TRIODIA PUNGENS grew in the
place of grass. But, upon the whole, the country was fine, open, park-
like, and with much anthistiria, and other grasses in which a greenness
was observed quite novel to us, and unexpected in these tropical regions.
Amongst the shrubs, we recognised the CASSIA HETEROLOBA, a small yellow-
flowered shrub; also a glutinous Baccharislike plant, and a form of
Eremophila Mitchellii, intermediate between the two other varieties. This
was a shrub ten feet high. Another new species of the genus GEIJERA
formed a tree twenty feet high, with long slender weeping branches. It
was otherwise much like the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, except that its flowers
were larger.[*] A dwarf shrub belonging to the genus STENOCHILUS, but
new, was found here[**]; and we met also with a large spreading tree,
from which we could bring away nothing that would enable botanists to
describe it, except as to the texture and nervation of the leaves, which,
Sir William Hooker observes, resemble CAPPARIDEOE; but the fruit appeared
to be sessile, and was too young and too imperfect to lead to any
satisfactory conclusion. The very crows cawed differently from those near
Sydney, or, (as Yuranigh observed) "talked another language." This river
was not the least unique of our recent discoveries. It still consisted of
a great breadth of concatenated hollows without any one continuous
channel, and this character seemed to be preserved by various trees
growing in the banks. When their large roots became denuded by the
floods, or were washed out, or partially gave way, so that the tree fell
over the stream, they presented impediments, first to the floating-wreck,
and, next, to the water itself: when that collection of floating wreck
became consolidated with muddy deposit, new banks so formed forced the
river into new currents, working out new courses; and this appeared to
give the peculiar character so uniformly observed. It seems extremely
favourable for the retention of water in a country where it may be
scarce; for the many ponds so formed and shaded from the sun, preserve it
much better and longer, than if one continuous unobstructed channel
alone, received and carried off, the water of the surface. I found the
hollows we saw this day drier than usual; but we at length succeeded in
discovering three good ponds. The foliage of the trees, with dry and
naked water-worn roots, presented all the hues of an English autumn,
although none of these were deciduous. This effect I was disposed to
attribute to unseasonable drought, or past heat. The weather we had was
delightful; for, although the thermometer in the shade rose sometimes to
90° about 4 P.M., the heat of the Bogan was still fresh in our
recollection; and the frosts which, not above three weeks before, had
disturbed our sleep, made this degree of heat as welcome as the flowers
in May. Latitude, 22° 55' 35" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at noon,
80°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 51°. (LXI.)
[* G. PENDULA (Lindl. MS.); ramis gracilibus pendulis, foliis linearibus
in petiolum sensim angustatis 5 uncias longis cum ramo parallelis.]
[** S. SALICINUS (Benth. MS.); foliis lanceolato-linearibus integerrimis
apice subuncinato ramulisque canescentibus, calycis foliolis brevibus
lanceolatis, corollae puberulae inferne attenuatae laciniis obtusis
infimâ retusâ vix caeteris magis solutâ.--Very near S. PUBIFLORUS, but
much whiter, the flowers smaller with the lobes much more equal, the
lower one much broader.]
30TH JULY.--The scrub of the river being likely to surround us, I
endeavoured to pass it, and cross the river, but on examination I found
the brigalow belt beyond, so serious an obstruction, that I adhered to
the left bank still, and proceeded N. N. W. The woods opened into
extensive plains covered with wild Indigo, as high as a horse's head, and
that was skirted by a plain covered with rich grass. Beyond these, we
entered an open forest where the anthistiria grew luxuriantly. I saw,
from the skirts of the plain, the mass of mountains partly seen in the
east for several days past, and I was able to intersect various points.
We seemed to be descending to a very low country. A fine large lagoon,
covered with ducks, appeared on our right. The whole country was improved
both as to grass and trees. The MYOPORUM DULCE, a shrub about five feet
high, was perhaps a distinct species intermediate between M. DULCE and M.
DESERTI. It had the habit of the latter, but the leaves nearly of M.
DULCE. A hollow at length indicated the river bed near us. It contained
abundance of transparent water, a continuous channel, rocky bed, and,
instead of brigalow, there grew on its banks a thick crop of strong
grass, and much verdure. A tributary from the west cost us some trouble
to cross, and soon after crossing it, I encamped. The course this day had
run well to the westward. We had crossed the 147° of E. longitude, and I
was very anxious to learn more of the further course of this river. I
crossed it, and hastened to some rising ground, whence I perceived a
flat-topped cliffy range extending from S. W. to the N. of west. It was
low; the middle part, appearing highest, was probably the nearest to our
camp. It was likely to turn our river too far to the northward for our
purpose. Latitude, 22° 51' 55". Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon,
82°; at 4 P.M., 83°; at 9, 45°. (LXII.)
31ST JULY.--We travelled over a rather different sort of country from
that recently seen upon the river. It was still on our right, and ran in
a deep, well-marked channel. I pursued a N.W. course, although the range
I had seen yesterday lay across it. I thus came upon the bed of a large
river from the south, very near where our little river joined it. This
new river was there fully 100 yards broad, with a sandy bed. I hastened
across it, and proceeded still N.W. In the bed, just above the junction
of the two rivers, I found a large podded pea, the seed both in green
pods and dry pods, was very sweet and edible. The pods were larger than
those of Turkey beans, and contained each ten or eleven peas (Dr. L.?)
Beyond the last found river, we travelled over open forest land,
occasionally passing patches of rosewood scrub on the left. When we might
again see water was rather a desperate thought, for we had witnessed our
abundant little river, wholly absorbed in a deep mass of dry sand, for
such was the bed of the larger. At length we came upon a very spacious
dry lagoon. Following this, as it appeared to be the channel of large
floods from the river, we arrived at a part containing water, and, still
continuing along the hard dry bank, another and another pond appeared,
and I finally encamped near the last, where I saw some good grass. The
course and character of the river below the junction last mentioned,
remained to be ascertained. Parts of the surface in the scrub, which,
before the rain, had been quite bare, now presented a crop of lichen,
which bore some resemblance to the orchilla. It might have been gathered
in any quantity. The ant-hills in this region, presented a different form
from any to be seen in the south, consisting of slender cones of hard
clay about the size and shape of sugar-loaves on an average, many being
larger, or as much as 3½ feet high, others smaller. In some places they
were so numerous, as to be rather inconvenient to ride amongst,
especially where the grass was long. Latitude of this camp, 22° 44' 45".
Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 43°.
(LXIII.)
1ST AUGUST.--Supposing that this line of lagoons led to the river, I
followed that direction westward, until it disappeared where we came upon
the water brigalow. Then, turning northward, I travelled many miles in
that direction, through rosewood scrubs, and over ground where the very
coarse hard grass grew on red sand. The callitris and casuarina appeared
amongst the trees. On a spot rather clear of wood, Yuranigh went to the
top of a callitris tree, and saw a lofty mountain somewhat to the
eastward of north, and he thought he could trace the trees marking the
course of the river to the westward of it. Further westward, the low
range already mentioned, was still visible, and he saw that the country
between the two ranges was very "deep," as he termed it, meaning very
low. Upon the whole, there was reason to believe that the river pursued a
course, somewhat to the westward of north. I turned in that direction,
and forced our way through scrub and brush, until, after cutting through
much fallen brigalow, I entered upon good grassy land, and saw the large
Yarra trees before me. These grew by the river, which here looked very
important, having a bed wider than that of the Barwan, with sloping
grassy banks at least sixty feet high, and Yarra trees growing from the
lower margin. Continuing along its banks, we soon found various large
ponds of water, and in the short course of it we had to trace before we
encamped, the direction was S. W. Many curious plants and trees now
appeared about the banks. A rough-leaved fig tree with well-formed
woolly, globular fruit; an ALTERANTHERA, with very large balls of satiny
white flowers, resembling A. NODIFLORA; the ACACIA FARNESIANA, a prickly
tree; the narrow-leaved smooth variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA; and in the
bed of the river, the ACACIA SIMSII (Cunn.) A broad-leaved form of
LORANTHUS NUTANS was parasitical on trees, and the EURYBIA SUBSPICATA of
Sir W. Hooker also grew on the upper bank. A very extraordinary CAPPARIS
was here observed in fruit. Its leaves were as much as eight inches long,
although not more than three quarters of an inch wide, and their hard
leathery texture gave them the appearance of straps. It did not
afterwards occur.[*] The water in the river was excellent. Thermometer,
at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°. Latitude, 22°
38' 40". (LXIV.)
[* C. UMBONATA (Lindl. MSS.); inermis, glaberrima, foliis coriaceis
longissimis loratis obtusis in petiolum sensim angustatis, pedunculis
solitariis (2 poll.) stipite brevioribus, fructu ovoideo umbonato.]
2D AUGUST.--We had approached this fine river over a park-like plain, but
lower down we found the banks lined with scrub. I pursued a N.W. course
in passing through it, and emerged on plains and open forests alternating
with scrubs. The scrubs were remarkable, as always involving dry hollows
where water had lodged. The clay was then hard; but, in all these
hollows, the deep impressions of naked feet of men, women, and children,
remained since the bottom had consisted of mud. These numerous
receptacles for water, when it is sent, attest the wisdom with which even
the clods of the valley have been disposed for the benefit of the animal
world. The day's journey was long, and chiefly through that sort of
scrub. I was disappointed in my hope of falling in with the river, by
travelling N.W. Yuranigh descried from a tree, the continuation, far to
the westward, of the low range that had been already seen from a former
camp. Its direction had then appeared to be nearly N. and S. The turn the
river had taken westward was, therefore, favourable to my hopes, that it
would continue in that direction. Its general course was found to be
nearly northward. On the other hand, the high ranges in the E. seemed to
terminate abruptly towards the N., so that a very low country appeared to
be to the northward of our position then, stretching from 40° N. of W. to
40° E. of N., a full quarter circle which the course of the river almost
bisected. After travelling twelve miles without seeing any thing of the
river, I reluctantly turned N.E., and then E., and in the last-mentioned
direction, I hit the river where it contained a fine reach of water. In
the dry part of the bed, grew various curious plants in flower, all quite
new to me; a species closely allied to the ACACIA DELIBERATA (Cunn.), and
a very fine silky leaved TRICHODESMA.[*] A new VELLEYA was also found
near this camp.[**] In the scrubs back from the river, the STENOCHILUS
CURVIPES was loaded with its long tubular flowers. A small species of
Acacia was perhaps a variety of A. LEUCADENDRON Cunn.; and we found also
a curious scrubby species of JACKSONIA.[***] Latitude, 22° 30' 10" S.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 40°.
(LXV.)
[* T. SERICEUM (Lindl. MSS.); caule erecto sericeo setis nullis, foliis
oppositis lineari-lanceolatis basi angustatis sericeopilosis, pedicellis
pilosis lateralibus longis, calycis lobis lanceolatis pubescentibus basi
pilosis, nucis dorso polito maculato.--Near T. ZEYLANICUM, but quite
distinct.]
[** V. MACROCALYX (De Vriese MSS.); foliis omnibus radicalibus,
oblongospathulatis acutis, integris, membranaceis, remote, minute et
obsolete dentatis, uninerviis, glabris, subdecurrentibus, glabris; scapis
radicalibus elongatis, folia vix exaequantibus; bracteis dichotomiarum
vel trichotomiarum binis ternisve lanceolatis acutis vel lineari-
lanceolatis, floribus 2-3nis; calycibus (involucris) ternis, magnis,
membranaceis, ovatis, ellipticisque, acuminatis, basi cordatis,
petiolatisque; antherae liberae, stigmatis indusium maximum ciliatum,
labiis compressis, cochleariforme.--Folia sunt 6-12 cent. longa, 3 cent.
lata, crassinervia; scapi adscendentes, inferne tenuiores, sursum parum
elongati.]
[*** J. RAMOSISSIMA (Benth. MSS.) inermis, ramis angulatis ramosissimis
glabriusculis, floribus subsessilibus, calycis colorati profunde divisi
laciniis duabus supremis diù vel omnino cohaerentibus, legumine
subsessili ovato-acuto ventricoso.]
3D AUGUST.--Our carts had been so much jolted about and shaken, in
crossing the dead timber yesterday, that I resolved to keep along the
river bank this day, if the ground and woods permitted. To a certain
distance from the banks, there was less fallen timber, as the natives had
been accustomed there to make their fires, and roast the mussles of the
river, and other food. The river was found to spread into separate
channels, in which I did not readily recognise it, until I found them
again united in a splendid reach of water under steep banks. The general
course was by no means promising, being somewhat to the E. of N.; it was
much to be apprehended that this river, too, would run to the E. coast,
and become another instance of the utter want of any knowledge of the
interior country, that still may prevail, long after complete surveys
have been made of the lines of coast. Again we came upon wide fields of
polygonum, and tracks of open forest with large lagoons. Then scrubs of
brigalow obliged us to travel in the river bed, as the only open part
where we could pass. That surface consisted of clay iron-stone, denuded
by torrents, and the "DISJECTA MEMBRA," of a river. Ponds, water-worn
banks, and timber, alive and dead, were there intermixed. Emerging from
these obstructions, as from a feverish dream, we entered upon park-like
scenery and good grass. The latter had been a desideratum during the last
two days. We next came upon a river containing plenty of water, and
coming from the N.W. I expected this would terminate our journey along
the other, and I encamped on discovering it, after a journey of ten
miles. The Australian rivers have all distinguishing characteristics,
which they seem to possess from their sources to their termination. That
we had just quitted, had a great affection, like its upper tributary, for
brigalow scrubs, and spreading into ana-branches. This last discovered
river seemed quite the reverse of all this. Its channel was very uniform;
the banks being covered with open forests and good grass. The bed was
sandy, but contained water in abundance, so that I hoped it would lead us
to higher regions, by following it upwards, to where other waters might
fall in the direction of the Gulf. This river contained the Harlequin
fish of the Maranin great abundance. Yet we had found none of these in
the river to which this was a tributary, but, on the contrary, two other
sorts. There was much novelty in the trees and plants. One tree in
particular, growing in the bed of the river, had the thin white shining
bark of the tea-tree (mimosa), and drooping leaves shaped like those of
the eucalyptus; a HIBISCUS allied to, if not the same, with II. LINDLEYI,
but not in flower; a CASSIA, perhaps C. CORONILLOIDES in ripe fruit, or
at least closely allied to it, occupied the dry sandy ground with
MONENTELES REDOLENS, a silveryheaded weed; and some Cinchonad allied to
Coffea, with young fruit, the size of small olives. Latitude, 22° 23'
10". Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 59°; at 4 P.M., 64°; at 9,
37°; with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVI.)
4TH AUGUST.--We had still so much westing to make, in order to hit the
head of the Gulf, that I was disposed to follow up the new river in any
direction that did not take us much to the S. The river, however, was
soon found to come from the S.W. and S., so that I was obliged to cross
it. I then travelled W. through open forest three miles, which brought us
to undulating ground. I then turned to the W.N.W., and proceeded over
ground equally open and favourable for the passage of our carts. At
length, a hard ferruginous conglomerate rock, projected from the surface,
and clumps of thick brigalow grew on some of the summits. On one piece of
rising ground, I found a mass of rocks, a few feet higher than the rest,
and from it I perceived a continuation of the slightly elevated
flattopped range, to the southward and westward. A somewhat higher but
similar sort of range appeared in the east, beyond a very broad and level
woody country, through which it was probable that our first-found river
still pursued a northerly course. Beyond that flat, and further to the
eastward, the same hills already seen were still visible, and others
northward of them, just like them. There was a high summit beyond all
these bearing about E. I could not discover any satisfactory line to
follow in the country thus partially visible, and as the sun was near the
horizon, I only continued, to go forward to a valley wherein I hoped to
have found water, but was disappointed, the soil being too sandy and
absorbent. There we nevertheless encamped, in Lat. 22° 19' 45" S. On this
day's journey, I saw two of the rose-coloured paroqueets of the Barwan,
none of these birds having been seen by any of the party since we crossed
the Culgoa. A fragrant stenochilus, with leaves smelling exactly like
mint, was found this day, and a splendid banksia in flower, also a new
MELALEUCA.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 63°;
at 9, 29°; with wet bulb, 18°.
[* M. TAMARISCINA (Hook. MSS.); ramosissima ramulis gracillimis copiose
excavatis e foliis delapsis, foliis rameis remotis parvis ovatis
acuminatis appressis, ramulinis minutissimis squamaeformibus convexis
obtusis imbricatis immersis, capsulis circa ramos spicatis parvis
globosis.--A very singular MELALEUCA, somewhat allied to M. HUGELII,
Endl.: but extremely different in the very minute squamiform leaves of
the copious slender branchlets, from which they fall and leave the
bleached slender branchlets full of little pits or cavities in which the
leaves had been, as it were, sunk.]
5TH AUGUST.--The last-found river not having answered my expectations, we
had come quite far enough from the one we had previously followed, which
still might have turned N.W., where we wished it to go; although I
confess the prospect was by no means promising. The doubt was still to be
removed, and, after a night passed without water, the earliest dawn saw
us again going forward, in a direction a little to the eastward of N. It
was only after pursuing that line for seventeen miles, that we again
found the river, unchanged in character, and still running northerly.
This was a trying day for our animals, as they could not be watered until
long after it was dark; a brigalow scrub, full of much fallen timber,
having retarded and impeded the carts so that they could not be got to
the water sooner. Nor had this been possible, even then, but for the
fortunate circumstance of our having the light of a nearly full moon. I
had preceded the party by some miles, accompanied by Yuranigh, the rest
following my horse's tracks, and I had thus passed through the four miles
of scrub, and reached the river early in the day. On returning, we found
the party in the midst of this scrub, and succeeded in guiding it, even
by moonlight, to the pond at which we had watered our horses during the
day. Many dry hollows of indurated mud appeared, as usual, in the
brigalow we had passed through; and we endeavoured to lead the carts, as
much as possible, through these hollows, in order to avoid the dead logs,
many of which we were obliged to cut, before the carts could pass. Many
deep impressions of natives' feet appeared in these clay hollows; also
the tracks of emus. Yuranigh showed me several tracks where a native had
been following a kangeroo's track; and he told me of a certain method
adopted by the natives of killing the kangeroo during wet weather,--which
is, to pursue the track, following it up day after day, until they
overtake the animal, which, on being so incessantly followed, becomes at
length so defenceless, that one native can despatch it with a tomahawk.
According to the barometer, it appeared that this river was not now much
higher above the level of the sea, than the Bogan or the Balonne. Still
it spread into many channels and isolated ponds; the latter being
sometimes in good grassy land, apart from the brigalow. Nothing could be
more sterile than the surface where the brigalow grew; but the first
indication of the river was an open space covered with luxuriant grass,
and we had to ride two miles along this, before Yuranigh and I could find
the river, having been guided to it chiefly by some smoke of the natives.
At the first place we approached, we found two ponds of excellent water,
under the shining boughs of lofty Yarra trees. Latitude, 22° 10' 15" S.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 36°;--
with wet bulb, 28°. (LXVII.)
6TH AUGUST.--I gave the jaded cattle a day's rest, and the men thus had
an opportunity to screw up and repair their carts.
7TH AUGUST.--The brigalow scrub obliged me this day to travel along the
river banks, upon which I found it pleasant to go, as they proved open
and grassy. Large lagoons and reaches of water appeared in the scattered
channels. At length, a deep broad reach, brim full of pure water,
glittered before us. Clouds of large ducks arose from it, and larger
water-fowl shrieked over our heads. A deep receding opening appeared to
the northeast, as if our river had been either breaking off in that
direction, or met with some important tributary from that side. I
continued to travel northwest, passing through some fine open forests.
The character of the country seemed changed. The grass was of a different
kind, and a refreshing breeze from the north-east seemed to "smell of
water," as Yuranigh expressed it. The dense line of Yarra trees appeared
still to be continuous on the right, and the more I travelled westward,
the more I was convinced that we still had the river at hand. We did at
length approach its banks after a journey of ten miles, when we found
this was a river FROM the west appearing fully as deep and important as
the one we had been following, and containing ponds of water. This new
tributary from the west, left no room to hope that the channel we had
been pursuing would turn westward--on the contrary, it became but too
probable that below the junction of this river, the channel would turn
towards the N. E. It could not well be doubted that this went to the
eastern coast; but, to remove all doubt, as Yuranigh was of a different
opinion, I sent Corporal Graham with him up the newly-found river, to
ascertain whether it did not come from the north-west, in which case we
could not expect that the other it joined would go in that direction.
Their report on returning, only rendered it necessary that I should take
a ride forward next morning. They said this river came from the S. W.,
and at two miles higher, had a very narrow channel. Lower down, it was
found to join the main channel, which, below the junction, still
continued northward. There, we found a beautiful new Grevillea.[*] The
STENOCHILUS PUBIFLORUS formed a willow-leaved shrub about twelve feet
high, and in the sandy bed of the river was an EUPHORBIA very near E.
HYPERICIFOLIA, but with narrower leaves, and the ovary pubescent not
glabrous. The DODONOEA VESTITA, with its hairy foliage and large shaggy
fruits, clothed the sandstone surface back from the river.[**] Latitude,
22° 2' 15" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at noon, 78°; at 4 P.M., 77°;
at 9, 55°;--with wet bulb 49°. (LXVIII).
[* G. MITCHELLI (Hook. MSS.); appresso-subsericesa, foliis pinnatifidis
bipinnatifidisque, laciniis angustissime linearibus elongatis marginibus
arcte reflexis subtus concoloribus, racemis elongatis secundis
densifloris, floribus subverticillatis, perianthiis pedicellisque
tomentosis, folliculis oblique ovatis tomentosis sessilibus, stylis
glabris.--Allied to G. CHRYSODENDRON, Br., but the segments of the leaves
are narrower, not golden-coloured beneath: the flowers are entirely
secund: a splendid species.]
[** D. VESTITA (Hook. MSS.); tota densissimè pilosa, foliis pinnatis
pinnis oppositis 4--5-jugis cuneatis apice lunulato-emarginatis vel
incisis, rachi articulatâ articulis obovatis, capsulis profundis
tetrapteris villosissimis.]
8TH AUGUST.--With two men and Yuranigh, I proceeded first, northward by
compass, for some miles, when I emerged from scrub, upon fine open downs
covered with a crop of excellent grass. The soil was soft and rich, the
grass PANICUM LOEVINODE. Small clumps of Acacias were strewed over these
downs, which were very extensive, and from them I saw several rather high
hills to the eastward, terminating abruptly over a low country to the
northward. Supposing that the main channel would there turn round to the
eastward, I proceeded north-west to examine the country. I soon entered a
thick scrub of rosewood and other Acacias. I remarked the CALLISTEMON
NERVOSUM, previously seen (July) with rich crimson flowers, forming a
large tree, in the dry open forest, with perfectly green spikes; also, on
the branches of Eucalypti, a beautiful orange coloured LORANTH. The soil
was rich, yielding, and rather bare of vegetation. Nodules of variegated
limestone, or marble, appeared on the surface, showing that the
improvement in the soil was owing to a change in the rocks under it.
Again emerging on open plains, the country seemed to fall northward,
which induced me to ride again in that direction, thinking we might meet
with some river either coming from the N. W. or leading there. The open
plains terminated upon a hollow full of trees, growing, as was very
evident, on a lower surface. The hollows resembled those of brigalow
scrub, and we soon found this tree in full possession of them. Dry
channels, leading in various directions between N. W. and E. engaged my
attention throughout the afternoon: indeed, they seemed interminable. At
length, we detected some continuity in the hollows, leading towards the
N.N.E. Yarra trees at length appeared in it, abundance of grass on the
banks, and deep dry ponds. Two crows hovering over one, raised our hopes
that it contained water, as we also perceived a line of green vegetation
over the margin. It was deep and full of water. Here, about 4 P. M., we
were thus enabled to water our horses, and continue our ride
independently of finding more water that evening. We next perceived an
open forest hill on our right; but, on examining the country from it, we
saw no immediate indications of the river. On reentering the brigalow
scrub, the continuity of ponds was very indistinct, and I at length lost
it, as it seemed, on its turning off to the eastward, a direction in
which I was unwilling to follow it at that time. I threaded the mazes of
another chain of hollows, which turned in various directions between N.
W. and 20° N. of E., the latter being the general course. During this
unsatisfactory sort of exploration, night overtook us, where the dry and
naked clay presented neither grass nor water. Our horses had come thirty
miles, and it was only after considerable search, in the dark, that I
found a grassy spot for our horses, and where we tied them up, and lay
down to pass the night.
9TH AUGUST.--We saddled them as soon as day broke, and proceeded again
into the scrub; but the hollows took no longer any continuous channel,
and I again travelled N. W., in which direction I entered upon a plain.
Thence I perceived a low flat, and a line of trees beyond it, very much
resembling those of a river, and towards this I hastened, and found the
river we had followed so far, unchanged in character. The scattered
ponds, and nearly northerly course, were legible proofs of its identity.
We watered our horses and took some breakfast, after which, while engaged
laying down our route, one of the men observed some natives looking at us
from a point of the opposite bank. I held up a green bough to one who
stood forward in a rather menacing attitude, and who instantly replied to
my signal of peace by holding up his bommareng. It was a brief but
intelligible interview; no words could have been better understood on
both sides; and I had fortunately determined, before we saw these
natives, to return by tracing the river upwards. Our horses had been
turned loose, the better to allow them to make the most of their time
while we breakfasted. Graham got them together while I was telegraphing
with the natives, some of whom I perceived filling some vessel with
water, with which they retired into the woods. We saddled, and advanced
to examine their track and the spot they had quitted, also that they
might afterwards see our horses' tracks there, lest our green bough and
subsequent return might have encouraged them to follow us. Yuranigh was
burning the mutton bones we had picked; but I directed him to throw them
about, that the natives might see that we neither eat their kangaroos nor
emus. I found the course of the river very straight, but rather more than
it had been, to the eastward of north. In some parts of the channel, lay
deep reaches of water, fully a mile long; at other places, shallow
hollows quite dry, seemed to be the only channel for the river's
currents. We avoided brigalow scrubs, and passed the night on a grassy
part of the bank, about ten miles back from the farthest point we had
reached that morning.
10TH AUGUST.--Early in the morning a moist breeze blew from the north,
with low scud not very high above the trees. Higher clouds drove as
rapidly from the westward. The extremely moist air was a great novelty to
us there. About 9 A.M., the sky was wholly overcast; but it finally
cleared up, and the day was cool. We reached the camp about 3 P.M.,
having hit the river on which it was situated, two miles lower. There I
found, to my surprise, that its channel was very deep and full of water,
being broader than that of the main river. I was, therefore, inclined to
explore its sources by proceeding upwards next day, as the direction of
the northerly stream, did not promise much. The camp had just been
visited by seventeen natives, apparently bent on hostile purposes, all
very strong, several of them upwards of six feet high. Each of them
carried three or four missile clubs. They were headed by an old man, and
a gigantic sort of bully, who would not keep his hands off our carts.
They said, by signs, that the whole country belonged to the old man. They
pointed in the direction in which I had gone, and to where Mr. Stephenson
happened to be at the time, down in the river bed; and then beckoned to
the party that they also should follow or go where I had gone, or leave
that place. They were received very firmly, but civilly and patiently, by
the men, and were requested to sit down at a distance, my man Brown,
being very desirous that I should return before they departed; thinking
the old man might have given me some information about the river, which
he called "Belyando." But a noisy altercation seemed to arise between the
old chief and the tallest man, about the clubs, during which the latter
again came forward, and beckoned to others behind, who came close up
also. Each carried a club under each arm, and another in each hand, and
from the gestures made to this advanced party, by the rest of the tribe
of young men at a distance, it appeared that this was intended to be a
hostile movement. Brown accordingly drew out the men in line before the
tents, with their arms in their hands, and forbade the natives to
approach the tents. "Nothing damps the ardour of troops so much," says
General Lloyd, "as an unexpected obstacle at the moment of attack," and
these strong men stood still and looked foolish, when they saw the five
men in line, with incomprehensible weapons in their hands. Just then, our
three dogs ran at them, and no charge of cavalry ever succeeded better.
They all took to their heels, greatly laughed at, even by the rest of
their tribe; and the only casualty befell the shepherd's dog, which
biting at the legs of a native running away, he turned round, and hit the
dog so cleverly with his missile on the rump, that it was dangerously ill
for months after; the native having again, with great dexterity, picked
up his club. The whole of them then disappeared, shouting through the
woods to their gins. It was remarkable that on seeing the horses, they
exclaimed "Yerraman," the colonial natives' name for a horse, and that of
these animals they were not at all afraid, whereas they seemed in much
dread of the bullocks. That these natives were fully determined to attack
the white strangers, seems to admit of no doubt, and the result is but
another of the many instances that might be adduced, that an open fight,
without treachery, would be contrary to their habits and disposition.
That they did not, on any occasion, way-lay me or the doctor, when
detached from the body of the party, may perhaps, with equal truth, be
set down as a favourable trait in the character of the aborigines; for
whenever they visited my camp, it was during my absence, when they knew I
was absent, and of course must have known where I was to be found. The
old man had very intelligibly pointed out to Brown the direction in which
this river came, I. E. from the S. W., and I therefore abandoned the
intention of exploring it upwards, and determined to examine how it
joined, and what the character of the river might be, about and below
that junction, in hopes I might still obtain an interview with the
natives, and learn something of the country to the north-west.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°; at noon, 82°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°;--
with wet bulb, 59°.
11TH AUGUST.--Crossing this river at a favourable spot near our camp, we
travelled on, eleven miles, and encamped early, on a fine reach of the
main river. Here I had leisure to lay down my late ride on paper, and to
connect it with the map; whereupon I concluded, with much regret, that
this river must be either a tributary to, or identical with, that which
M. Leichardt saw joining the Suttor in latitude 21° 6' S., and which he
supposed to come from the west. It had supplied me with water across
three degrees of latitude, and had gradually altered its course from N.W.
to about 30° E. of N. In my ride I had traced it to 21° 30' of latitude
south, and no high land had appeared, as I expected, to the northward, at
all likely to turn its course towards the west. I found the height of its
bed, moreover, to be so little above the sea (not much more than 600
feet), that I could no longer doubt that the division between eastern and
western waters was still to the westward; and I arrived at the following
conclusions:--
1st. That the river of Carpentaria should have been sought for to the
westward of all the sources of the river Salvator.
2nd. That the deepest indentation as yet discovered of the division of
the waters, was at the sources of that river, and corresponded with the
greatest elevation indicated by the barometer (about 2500 feet); and,
3dly. That there, I. E. under the parallel of 25° S., the highest spinal
range must extend westward, in a line of truncated cones, whereof Mount
Faraday appeared to be one.
I accordingly determined to retrace our wheel-tracks back to the head of
the Salvator, and to explore from thence the country to the north-west,
as far as our stock of provisions and the season would permit. I had
marked my camps by Roman letters cut deep in sound trees, and at this, I
left the number LXIX. cut under the initials of the colony, N.S.W.; this
being the number marked from the Culgoa. We had, at least, laid out a
good carriage road from the colony to a river in M. Leichardt's route;
which road, as far as we had marked it with our wheels, led through
pastoral regions of much greater extent than all the colonists now
occupied. At this farthest point traced by our wheels within the Tropics,
the plants were still known to botanists, but with some interesting
exceptions. We here found the CASSIA HETEROLOBA in flower; also the burr
plant, CALOTIS CUNEIFOLIA of Brown; the PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM of A.
Cunningham, a shrub with yellow flowers and narrow willowy leaves; and
the beautiful laurel-leaved GEIGERA LATIFOLIA was still conspicuous among
the forest trees. But here also we found a very fine new species of
STENOCHILUS[*], a new pine-leaved DODONOEA, allied to the D. PINIFOLIA of
Swan River[**], and a most singular hard-leaved shrub, with spiny foliage
resembling five pointed stars, proved to be a new species of
LABICHEA.[***] Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P.M.,
70°; at 9, 35°;--with wet bulb, 30°.
[* S. PUBIFLORUS (Benth. MS.) foliis lanceolato-linearibus elongatis
integerrimis apice subuncinato novellis ramulisque tomentellis mox
glabratis, calycis foliolis lanceolatis, corollae pubescentis inferne
attenuatae laciniis oblatis infima breviter soluta.--This agrees pretty
well with Brown's short diagnosis of S. LONGIFOLIUS, as well as with
Cunningham's specimens so named; but those have no corolla, which Brown
also had not seen, and his is a south coast plant. (Another new species
with leaves like this, but very different flowers, was gathered by Sir T.
Mitchell in his former expedition.)]
[** D. ACEROSA (Lindl. MS.); foliis tenuibus acerosis subfalcatis
glandulosis, corymbis axillaribus paucifloris folio brevioribus, capsulis
tetrapteris alis apice rotundatis.]
[*** L. DIGITATA (Benth. MS.) ramulis tomentellis, foliis subsessili bus,
foliolis 3-5-digitatis lineari-oblongis spinoso-mucronatis coriaceis
reticulatis terminali caeteris vix majore, antheris parum inaequalibus
conformibus.]
12TH AUGUST.--I reluctantly ordered my men, (who believed themselves on
the high-way to Carpentaria,) to turn the horses' heads homewards, merely
saying that we were obliged to explore from a higher point. The track
already marked out by our party advancing, was so much easier for the
draught animals, as requiring less driving, that they arrived at an early
hour again at the river they formerly crossed, and travelled with ease
three and a half miles further back to a lagoon, on the banks of which
the grass was good, and where we therefore now encamped. The track of the
large feet of the natives showed they had followed us this morning, from
our camp of yesterday; and a fragment of burning wood they had dropped,
showed that they had this day met us in the scrub as we returned, and had
gone out of our way. Even to the lagoon, their track along our route was
also plainly visible. I was now, apparently to them, at their request,
leaving the country; and we should soon see if their purpose in visiting
our camp was an honest one, and whether their reasonable and fair demand,
was really all they contemplated on that occasion. Thermometer, at
sunrise, 37°; at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 71°; at 9, 65°.
13TH AUGUST.--We continued back, along the old track, to beyond Camp
LXVII. I then took the direction of the camp two stages back, in order to
avoid the great detour formerly pursued; the camp without water, and the
thick brigalow. All these we successfully avoided, passing over fine open
forest land, and encountering no brigalow. We found the river on our left
when we required it, and encamped on a plain near the water, and distant
only a few miles from the camp two journies back from LXVII. I was guided
by the bearing of 10° E. of N. We found much of the grass on fire, and
heard the natives' voices although we saw none. We crossed some patches
of dry swamp where the clods had been very extensively turned up by the
natives, but for what purpose Yuranigh could not form any conjecture.
These clods were so very large and hard that we were obliged to throw
them aside, and clear a way for the carts to pass. The whole resembled
ground broken up by the hoe, the naked surface having been previously so
cracked by drought as to render this upturning possible without a hoe.
There might be about two acres in the patch we crossed, and we perceived
at a distance, other portions of the ground in a similar state. The river
had, where we made it, a deep wellmarked channel, with abundance of clear
water in it, and firm accessible banks. It was still, however, enveloped
in a narrow belt of brigalow. The shepherd having most imprudently taken
the sheep to water when it was near sunset, lost his way in the scrub,
and could not be found all night. Some thought he had fallen into the
hands of the aborigines who were closely watching us; and it was obvious
that had they got possession of our sheep, they could have annoyed us
very seriously, or indeed, destroyed the whole party. The night was very
dark, the sky having been overcast. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at
noon, 61°; at 4 P.M., 60; at 9, 60.
14TH AUGUST.--Drizzling rain this morning with an easterly wind, and high
barometer, reminded me of the coast rains of Sydney. At dawn, I sent
Yuranigh with one of the men, both being mounted, in search of the
shepherd, and they returned with him and the sheep about 8 A. M. He had
been found in full march to the eastward, where he never could have
fallen in with the party. His track, circling in all directions, had soon
been come upon by Yuranigh in the scrub. We then proceeded, and still
found a way clear of brigalow, which, once or twice during the day,
seemed almost to surround us. At about seven miles from where we had
encamped, we crossed the first discovered tributary from the S. W., and
at a mile further on, we fell in with our old track, travelled two miles
more along it, and then encamped beside a fine reach of the river. The
drizzling rain continued, and I hoped the ponds at the higher range,
towards which we were returning, might be replenished by still heavier
rain. An unpleasant smell prevailed every where this day, resembling that
from a kitchen sewer or sink. Whether it arose from the earth, or from
decayed vegetable matter upon it, I could not form any opinion; but it
was certainly very different from the fragrance produced by a shower in
other parts of New South Wales, even when it falls only on sunburnt
grass. It was equally new and unaccountable to Yuranigh. Two proteads,
probably GREVILLEAS, were found here.[*]
[* The one with singularly thick, firm, and rigid leaves, a foot long,
linear attenuated at each extremity, pubescenti-sericeous, striated: the
other with white acerose leaves pinnated in two pairs. Both were large
forest trees, neither in flower nor in fruit.]
15TH AUGUST.--We continued to return along the old track until we arrived
at Camp LXV., taking the direction of the river's general course, (7° E.
of S.). I travelled along its banks several miles, endeavouring to cut
off a detour we had previously described. The river, however, obliged me
to go so far to the westward, that I met with my former track, about
midway between the two camps. We soon left that track, crossing a strip
of brigalow and a rich grassy plain; beyond which, I found the river, and
encamped about 3 P.M., when the rain again came on, the morning having
been, until then, fair, although the sky was cloudy and overcast.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 57°; at noon, 64°; at 4 P.M., 66°; at 9, 60°;--
with wet bulb, 58°.
16TH AUGUST.--The sky still clouded, seemed to promise rain in the
country to which we were returning. We came to the channel of the main
river, after proceeding about three miles in the direction of a turn in
our route beyond next camp. The channel here was broad, and occasionally
filled with a good body of water. The bed was sandy, and in it grew a
tree with thin loose white bark, resembling that of the mimosa or tea-
tree of the colony; some of these trees were of large dimensions. There
also grew, in the sandy bed of this river, a new white-flowered
MELALEUCA, resembling M. ERICIFOLIA, but with long mucronate leaves[*];
and, in the scrubby bank the STENOCHILUS BIGNONIOEFLORUS formed a willow-
like shrub fifteen feet high. We again came came upon our track where I
intended to hit it, although we had been retarded by brigalow scrub. We
thus left Camp LXIV. on the left, and finally again pitched our tents at
that of LXIII. Thermometer, at sunrise, 58°; at noon, 65; at 4 P.M., 63°;
at 9, 63°;--with wet bulb, 57°.
[* M. TRICHOSTACHYA (Lindl. MS.); folsaepius oppositis linearibus planis
utrinque acutissimis, spicâ terminali laxiusculâ rachi pilosâ, calyce
glabro dentibus herbaceis, phalangibus polyandris ungue petalis
breviore.]
17TH AUGUST.--The ground was covered in many parts with a lichen, the
product of the late rain, and which had no root in, nor attachment to,
the soil, but could be collected in handfuls, and lay quite loose in
heaps, or rather in a thick layer. I could not comprehend the origin of
this singular vegetable production, which might then have been gathered
in any quantity. The day was cool, cloudy, and pleasant. Fine round
clouds driving still from the eastward, with a high barometer (for this
of Bunten stood seven millimetres higher, than it did when we had been
formerly encamped on the same ground). On recrossing the great river from
S. W., we found more of the pea with large pods, it seemed to grow only
on the dry sand of the river bed. This was a most interesting river, and
I could have wished much to have explored it upwards, had the state of my
horses and provisions permitted. On its banks we had discovered various
rare trees and plants seen by us nowhere else; and the pea just
mentioned, which had, as Mr. Stephenson thought, valuable qualities as a
laxative medicine. The bed of the river was broad and sandy; the banks
were quite clear of brigalow or other scrubs, level, open, and in most
parts covered with luxuriant anthistiria and wild indigo. We arrived in
good time, the way being good, at Camp LXII., and there again established
ourselves for the night. It was an excellent spot for the purpose, having
plenty of water in rocky ponds, and abundance of grass, half green. The
wind lulled, and heavy clouds of stratus appeared in the east, towards
evening. Some stars were afterwards visible, and about 9 P. M., a wind
from the S.E. suddenly arose, but no rain fell. Thermometer, at sunrise,
55°; at noon, 71°; at 4 P. M., 74°; at 9, 68°;--with wet bulb, 62°.
18TH AUGUST.--The mercurial column was lower this morning, and the sky
was overcast. No wind could be felt from any quarter. We moved off, at
our usual hour, 7 A. M. About nine, the western portion of the sky seemed
loaded with rain; the wind suddenly arose from S. W., and a heavy rain
began to fall steadily, to my great joy. The soil consisted of clay,
which clogged the wheels, nevertheless, we arrived, without much delay,
at a large lagoon, not much more than a mile short of Camp LXI., and
there, of necessity, encamped. The rain continued without intermission
until the evening, turning the surface around our tents into mud, almost
knee deep. Still I rejoiced in the prospect the rain afforded, of water
in the remaining part of our journey; the grand object of which was still
to be accomplished, namely, the discovery of an interior river, flowing
towards the Gulf of Carpentaria. Thermometer, at sunrise, 51°; at noon,
54°; at 4 P. M., 53°.
19TH AUGUST.--The soft clay was still impassable, but the sun shone
brightly in the morning, and was likely soon to put a crust upon the
earth. The wind continued, however, in the same quarter, the S. W., and I
had thus a little leisure to mature my plan of farther exploration in
that interesting country, to the westward of the vale of Salvator Rosa. I
had ascertained that the whole of that fine country so named, and all the
gullies falling towards it, were on the seaward side of the dividing
range, if range there was. That, southward of the high ground under the
parallel of 24° or 25°, the fall of waters and of the whole country was
towards the south; whereas, northward of that parallel, the fall was so
decidedly in the very opposite direction, or northward, that the river we
had just explored extended across three degrees of latitude, descending
from a mean elevation of at least 2000 feet, to one of only 600 feet
above the sea. No river of any importance came from the westward; those
we had seen, coming from S. W. What then could be supposed, but that the
water-shed on that side was not far distant? Nor was it less reasonable
to expect to find beyond it, the heads of a river or rivers leading to
the Gulf of Carpentaria. In that nook, where it seemed that the spinal
range extended westward in the elongated direction of this great island,
and there probably separated from whatever high land extended northward
and formed a limit to the basin of the Belyando, was therefore, to be
sought the solution of this important geographical question; one result
of which would probably be, the discovery of a river falling towards the
north-west, to enter the Gulf of Carpentaria. The exploration of the
country to which we were returning was, therefore, of the most momentous
interest; and although our cattle were tired, and our time and provisions
almost exhausted (the sun being likely to approach the tropic line before
we could return to it), I was determined to carry the exploration so far,
with whatever means could be spared from the party, even had it been
necessary to have travelled on foot, or to have lived, like a native, on
opossums, in order to investigate that point. Thermometer, at sunrise,
45°; at noon, 63°; at 4 P. M., 63°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 44°.
20TH AUGUST.--Heavy clouds promised more rain, but a crust had been
formed on the surface which enabled us to proceed. The day cleared up,
and we encamped within two miles of Camp LX.; much of the ground passed
over having been sandy and dry. We now found water in every hollow, a
great blessing brought by the rain, and affording some prospect of relief
from one great difficulty for some time to come. At 10 minutes past 10
P.M. a very extraordinary meteor alarmed the camp, and awoke every man in
it. First, a rushing wind from the west shook the tents; next, a blaze of
light from the same quarter drew attention to a whirling mass, or
revolving ball of red light, passing to the southward. A low booming
sound, accompanied it, until it seemed to reach the horizon, after which
a sound like the report of a cannon was heard, and the concussion was
such that some tin pots, standing reversed on a cart-wheel, fell to the
ground, and the boat on the dray vibrated for some minutes. The sky was
very clear. Fahrenheit's thermometer 46°.
21ST AUGUST.--Following our former route, the track led us through
hollows, formerly clear of the fallen brigalow, but now rendered
impassable by water, a new impediment. I was, however, most thankful for
the glorious abundance of that element, the want of which had hitherto
confined my route, and retarded the exploration of the country. We
cheerfully sought round-about ways to avoid these new ponds. Our journey
was accomplished very satisfactorily, having made two cuts to avoid the
former camp (LX.), which formed an angle in the route, and much bad
brigalow near Camp LIX., where we again encamped, for the sake of a piece
of good grassy plain near it. The weather was most pleasant, temperate,
and Englishlike, though we were still within the tropics. A sweet breeze
blew from the S. W., and the degree of temperature was between 50° and
60° of Fahrenheit, the most agreeable, I believe, of any, to the human
frame. There was abundance of water, and young grass was daily growing
higher; many trees were also beginning to blossom. We were retiring,
nevertheless, RE INFECTÂ, from these tropical regions, and I was
impatient to arrive at the great range once more, to resume my
explorations. At this camp, we found a plant, which was a wild carrot,
tasting exactly like parsley. The men did not like to eat it, from the
effects they had recently experienced from eating the large pea already
mentioned--violent vomiting and purging; but I had no doubt whatever,
that this carrot would have been found a good vegetable. The GEIJERA
PARVIFLORA again attracted attention, by the strong pungent odour of its
long narrow leaves; and we here observed the EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII, in
the form of a shrub, from ten to twelve feet high. Its wood was
remarkable from a perfume like roses.
22D AUGUST.--The morning was beautiful, our way plainly marked and
sufficiently open, although it led wholly through a scrub for twelve
miles. Flowers, the product of the late rain, were beginning to deck the
earth, and water lodged in every hollow. We arrived early at Camp LVIII.,
and encamped 300 yards beyond it, to be nearer to a plain of good grass.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P. M., 72°; at 9, 43°;--
with wet bulb, 40°.
23D AUGUST.--The route back to the next camp went too far to the
westward; and I therefore endeavoured to make a direct cut back to it. We
thus encountered much scrub, and twice crossed the river. A bank, or
berg, of water-worn pebbles, appeared on the west side of the river; and,
to the eastward, a hill was visible amongst the trees. The river channel
was full of water, and seemed to have been even running, with the late
rain. The whole journey was through scrub; but this was chiefly of
rosewood, which is not nearly so formidable an impediment as brigalow. We
encamped on the river bank before we got so far as Camp LVII., at a spot
where there was grass, the ground generally about that camp being very
bare, although a fresh spring was observable, which would soon alter the
case. At this camp I found, on a very low bush with a small leaf,
splendid specimens of the fruit of a CAPPARIS, in a dry state, containing
seeds. A crop of young fruit appeared also on the same bushes. This must
be a very different species from the C. MITCHELII; the bush seldom
exceeding the height and size of a gooseberry bush, although the fruit
was larger than that of the tree CAPPARIS, and of a more uniform size and
spherical shape. It seemed to grow only within the tropic. Thermometer,
at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 44°;--with wet
bulb, 41°.
24TH AUGUST.--The fine grassy plain had afforded better food for our
horses and cattle, than they had seen for some time. Keeping along its
eastern side, I continued to travel until I fell in with our former
track; and in passing Camp LVII., I caused the letter T to be cut above
the letters N.S.W., to distinguish it as our first camp within the line
of Capricorn. I left the intertropical regions with feelings of regret;
the weather had favoured our undertaking, and water had become abundant.
The three last mornings had been frosty; the thermometer having stood on
these mornings at 25°, 28°, and 29°, respectively. Many interesting trees
and shrubs were just putting forth buds, of which we might never be able
to gather the flower for the botanist. We travelled from Camp LVII.,
along our old track, to Camp LVI., in latitude 23° 31' 36" S.; and there
again set up our tents, having been exactly one month in the interior of
tropical Australia. A pigeon this day arose from her nest in the grass
near our route, and Yuranigh found in it two full fledged young ones.
These being of that sort of pigeon preferable to all others for the
table, GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA, we took this pair in hopes it might be possible
to bring them up, and, perhaps, to obtain from them a domestic brood.
This bird seemed to have the shortest beak of all the pigeon tribe, and
flew more clumsily than others. It had three streaks of white about the
head, assimilating it to the poultry class; and in building on the
ground, it afforded another indication of its resemblance to our domestic
birds. The flesh is very white, firm, yet tender. It is, perhaps, the
most delicate of all birds. Thermometer, at sunrise, 29°; at noon, 75°;
at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 46°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
25TH AUGUST.--The former route to this camp having been very crooked from
following the course of the river amongst brigalow scrub, I set out on
the bearing of the next camp, and reached it by travelling in a straight
line, without much impediment, having found tolerably open ground. The
blue summits of mountains appearing again above the trees, were welcome
to our eyes; and Mounts Beaufort and Mudge reminded me of the Persian
proverb, "The conversation of a friend brighteneth the eyes." We encamped
a mile on, from Camp LV., for the sake of better grass than we had left
formerly at that camp. The hills adjacent consisted of gravel; and
amongst the large water-worn pebbles, of which it consisted, I found
basalt and trachite, neither of which rocks had been detected by me
amongst the gravel of the basin of the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise,
48°; at noon, 76°; at 4 P.M., 77°; at 9, 52°;--with wet bulb, 47°.
26TH AUGUST.--After cutting off an angle in the old track, and so
shortening the way about a mile, we pursued it back to Camp LIV.; which
spot we again occupied for the night. The horses were leg-weary; but I
could spare no time for rest, otherwise than by making the daily journies
short, until we could return to the foot of the dividing ranges. One of
the young pigeons was found nearly dead this morning; but Yuranigh, by
chafing and warming it by the fire, soon recovered it. The thermometer
had been as low as 38°; but the birds had been kept in a box well covered
with wool, and also by canvas. On the hill, southward of this camp, I
found one tree, of the remarkable kind mentioned, as having been first
seen by Mr. Stephenson, near Mount Mudge. Thermometer, at sunrise, 37°;
at noon, 80°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
27TH AUGUST.--On reaching a difficult place for the passage of carts
along the rocky margin of the river, we took a new direction, more to the
right, crossing the clear hill, from which, on the 23d July, I had a view
of the mountains to the eastward. Then descending, we came upon plains of
firm clay, whereon grew some trees of ACACIA PENDULA. The rock in the
hills seemed calcarious, and on a detached slab of ferruginous sandstone,
I saw a more perfect specimen of ripple marks than I had ever seen
elsewhere, except on the sea-beach.
I had now an opportunity of observing, in the hills forming a low range
on my right, or to the westward, that their stratification dipped toward
the east, at an angle of about 25° with the horizon; on which side those
slopes did not exceed that angle, whereas on the westward, they presented
abrupt, precipitous sides, each terminating in two steep sides, forming
an angle at the highest point. We encamped on a fine plain on the east
side of that range, but westward of the river (beyond which lay our
former route), and we found water in a lagoon a quarter of a mile
eastward of our camp; also, in a mountain rivulet two miles south of the
camp, coming from near Mount Beaufort, and some, very clear, was found in
a rocky gully immediately westward of our camp. Still, the bed of the
main channel was dry, and we had been obliged to seek for the water
before it was found in these several directions. Thermometer, at sunrise,
41°; at noon, 79; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 48°;--with wet bulb 39°.
28TH AUGUST.--The cattle were well refreshed by the grass on the plain: a
fresh growth was now apparent in it. We continued to travel due southward
over the plain, and through a brigalow scrub beyond it, until we crossed,
for the last time, the little river that had led us so far astray. Just
beyond it, we joined our old track, at about five miles short of Camp
LIII., to which we proceeded, and where we again encamped, although the
pond we formerly found there had dried up. We afterwards found a good
supply, at a lagoon about half a mile lower down; from which a little dog
of mine (called Procyon), had come out wet, and so made it known to us.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 40°; at noon, 81°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 49°;--
with wet bulb, 41°.
29TH AUGUST.--Continuing along the old track, we this day quitted the
basin of the Belyando, and ascended those grassy slopes, and that range,
which I had formerly taken to be the water-shed of the coast rivers. We
thus crossed to the basin of another eastern river, the Nog; and, in
quitting that of the Belyando, I have to observe, that like most other
Australian rivers, it maintained a peculiar character throughout its
course, with great uniformity, even after it received tributaries
apparently larger than itself. All these lapsed into the same
concatenated line of ponds; at one place, spreading amidst brigalow
scrub, at another, forming one well-defined deep channel. For the
formation of ponds, and the retention of water, in so dry a climate, we
see here something between the ordinary character of rivers, and
artificial works which man must construct, when population may spread
into these regions. The fallen timber of the brigalow decays very slowly,
and is not liable to be burnt, like most other dead wood in open forests,
because no grass grows amongst the brigalow, as in open forests. The
accumulations of dead logs become clogged with river rack and the deposit
of floods; to which floods these heaps present obstructions, forcing the
waters into new channels, and, in their progress, scooping out new ponds,
and completing the embankment of dead logs; which thus form natural dams
and reservoirs to hold, under the shade of the brigalow trees, more water
for a longer time than any single river channel could retain, however
sluggish its course. Thus it was, that during a season of unusual
drought, we had found abundance in this river's course, across nearly 3½
degrees of latitude. The fallen brigalow presents awkward obstructions to
wheel carriages; and, as the river spreads into broad plains, and is very
favourable to the growth of brigalow, the difficulty of travelling along
this river is greatest, where its waters are most scattered. Experience
has taught us, in such cases, to endeavour to follow the river channel as
closely as possible (the general course being very straight); and thus,
open grassy spots and small plains are frequently met with, beyond which
nothing could be distinguished, and from which it is safest to go forward
in the known general course of the chain of ponds. We again encamped
under Mount Mudge, where I perceived that a projecting portion of white
rock on the summit, had fallen since I had stood upon it; and that the
avalanche of rock had strewed the woody side of the mountain with white
fragments down to the very base. In the sheltered ravine below, a curious
new CASSIA formed a shrub six feet high.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 39°;
at noon, 70°; at 4 P.M., 82°; at 9, 56°;--with wet bulb, 50°.
[* C. ZYGOPHYLLA (Benth. MS.) glabra vel pube tenuissimâ subcanescens,
foliolis unijugis linearibus planis crassis, glandula inter foliola parva
depressa, racemis petiolo brevioribus 2-4-floris.--Near C. NEMOPHILA
Cunn.; but there appear never to be more than one pair of leaflets, the
plant is smoother, the leaflets longer, and the glands different.]
30TH AUGUST.--The old track guided the party, while I preceded it to
sketch one or two landscapes. A fine breeze blew from the northward, and
goodly clouds seemed to promise rain. I completed my drawings before the
arrival of the carts; and on their coming up I conducted them to a spot
where we encamped, on the left bank of the creek, or opposite to camp
LI., being resolved to seek a better and more direct way to the plains,
than that down the bed of Balmy Creek, which we formerly found so
difficult. As soon as I had chosen a spot for the tents, I took a ride,
accompanied by Mr. Stephenson and Yuranigh, to explore the ravines
eastward of that of Balmy Creek, and which led in a more direct line
towards the plains of the Claude. We found the precipices in this
direction much lower. After riding a few miles, we could ride up one of
the points, and following the ridge we had ascended (which was thickly
covered with brigalow), we at length got to an open forest, and once more
saw the open plains before us. In returning, I selected, with Yuranigh's
able assistance, a smaller valley, by which I hoped to succeed in
conducting the carts next day, so as to avoid the ascent of the brigalow
range. The barometer at this camp had fallen ten millimetres lower than
the point at which the mercury stood formerly at the adjacent camp
(marked LI.). By the side of the water-course, we found the ACACIA
DORATOXYLON and also the ACACIA CONFERTA. The valley was gay with the
ultramarine blue flowers of a new species of HOVEA[*]; and on rich soil
we saw also the PODOLEPIS ACUMINATA? D. C. A shrub with long curved
leaves and singular zigzag stems, was ascertained to be the ACACIA
MACRADENIA, a very striking new species; and on Balmy Creek we found also
a new BOSSIOEA, with deep red flowers.[**] Thermometer, at sunrise, 59°;
at noon, 83°; at 4 P.M., 81°; at 9, 62°; with wet bulb, 54°.
[* H. LEIOARPA (Benth. MS.) fruticosa, foliis anguste oblongis
sublanceolatisve integerrimis subtus reticulatis pubescentibus, venis
primariis obliquis, pedicellis in pedunculo brevissimo axillari
subgeminis calyce longioribus, calyce adpresse tomentoso, legumine
glaberrimo.--Not unlike some forms of H. LANCEOLATA, but readily
distinguished, besides the shorter leaves, by the smooth fruit and the
veins of the leaves, which diverge from the midrib at a very acute
instead of a right angle.]
[** B. CARINALIS (Benth. MS.) ramulis teretibus puberulis foliosis,
foliis subsessilibus subcordato-ovatis acutiusculis puberulis, pedicello
calyce paullo breviore, corollae alis vexillo longioribus carinâ multo
brevioribus.--The same remarkable proportion of the petals may be seen in
an unpublished species gathered by Fraser on the Brisbane river.]
31ST AUGUST.--Some heavy showers fell during the night, and in the
morning the sky was wholly overcast. We crossed various formidable
gullies, and travelled some way down the bed of Balmy Creek, then
ascending by the valley through which I yesterday penetrated in my ride,
we travelled southward in a tolerably direct line through the valley up
to its highest heads, from one of which we contrived to draw up carts and
drays along three traverses, formed by nature on the face of a rocky
slope. Above this, we found a plateau of flowering shrubs, chiefly new
and strange, so that Mr. Stephenson was soon loaded like a market
gardener. He had found in the hollow of the little gulley by which we
ascended a variety of ACACIA DECORA with leaves shorter that usual; the
CASSIA ZYGOPHYLLA, a very curious new species; and the BERTYA OLEOEFOLIA,
a shrub three feet high, with green flowers. On the top of the plateau
grew a singular dwarf shrub, loaded with yellow flowers, and covered by
strong sharp leaves resembling the curved blade of a penknife. It has
been ascertained by Mr. Bentham to be an Acacia, referable to his ACACIA
TRIPTERA. A little upright bush, with glandular leaves smelling strongly
of thyme, proved to be a new PROSTANTHERA.[*] The beautiful ACACIA DECORA
appeared as a shrub four feet high; the DODONOEA NOBILIS was just forming
its fruit; the DODONOEA VESTITA was also there; the white flowered
MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMI with its viscid branches, formed a bush about four
feet high: PITTOSPORUM LANCEOLATUM was a shrub about three feet high,
with yellow flowers; and here we met in abundance with the beautiful
TECOMA OXLEYI, a kind of Bignonia, loaded with yellowishwhite flowers.
[* P. ODORATISSIMA (Benth. MS.) viscoso-puberula foliis linearibus
sublanceolatisve obtusissimis paucidentatis integrisve crassis ad axillas
fasciculatis, floribus paucis axillaribus subsessilibus, calycis labiis
integris inferiore minore, antherarum calcare longiore loculum
superante.--Near P. ASPALATHOIDES: leaves two or three lines long,
remarkably thick. Calyx strongly ribbed. The specimens found were past
flower, having only a few fragments remaining of the corolla and stamens.
The whole plant appears very viscid and retains when dry a very strong
smell of thyme.]
There ended all our troubles with the sandstone gullies, for we soon
entered open forests, and crossed a grassy valley gently sloping to the
eastward, in whose bosom we found a fine deep rocky pond. Beyond that
valley we arrived at open downs of the richest soil, and of an extent not
to be embraced by the eye at any one point of view. The finest sorts of
grass were fast springing up, and curious herbs were beginning to shoot
from the rich alluvium in the vallies. We encamped on these downs, about
ten miles from our former camp by the Claude, XLIX.
1ST SEPTEMBER.--The morning clear and frosty; Thermometer 25°. All
prospects of rain had vanished "into thin air." The scene now around us
was as different as could well be imagined, from that which surrounded us
at the same hour yesterday. As we proceeded, we crossed a hill quite
clear of trees, which commanded a view over an extent of similar country,
large enough for a county. The broken summits, just appearing above the
placid horizon of undulating downs, had formerly looked like a range to
us, and were certainly highly ornamental to the scenery; but no stranger
could have supposed these features to have been only the highest parts of
such a broken sandstone country as that from which we had just emerged.
The plains, or rather, I should say, downs, for they were nowhere level
but everywhere gently undulating, were first seen in white streaks high
above us, when we first perceived them through the scrubs. These downs
consisted of the richest sort of black mould, on which grew luxuriantly,
ANTHISTIRIA and PANICUM LOEVINODE. But the surface in general was loose,
resembling that of a field after it had lain long in fallow. Herbs in
great variety were just emerging from the recently watered earth, and the
splendid morning did ample justice to the vernal scene. The charm of a
beginning seemed to pervade all nature, and the songs of many birds
sounded like the orchestral music before the commencement of any
theatrical performance. Such a morning, in such a place, was quite
incompatible with the brow of care. Here was an almost boundless extent
of the richest surface in a latitude corresponding to that of China, yet
still uncultivated and unoccupied by man. A great reserve, provided by
nature for the extension of his race, where economy, art, and industry
might suffice to people it with a peaceful, happy, and contented
population.
These plains are much higher than the sandstone ravines, and the soil
contains not only pebbles, but angular fragments of the knots and fibres
of wood in a silicified state, and much encrusted with chalcedony. The
component parts of the sandstone in the gullies resemble those of a sea
beach. These fragments of fossil wood in rich soils of plains or downs
above formations of sandstone, are found in various parts of Australia,
and I have seen fossil wood from similar plains in Tasmania. The fossil
wood of such plains has no appearance of having been exposed to fire. The
ACACIA PENDULA grows on the skirts of them, and indicates a salsolaceous
soil. These circumstances are obvious to everybody, but no geologist has
yet explained to us the causes of such changes as may have produced that
rich black mould, on which trees, now silicified, formerly grew; or these
wide plains and downs of rich earth, above a red sandstone formation. One
has called the interior of Australia a "dry seabottom;" but this phrase
admits of no easy application to such cases as these. Fragments of a
ferruginous conglomerate of water-worn pebbles, apparently identical with
those in the basin of the Darling, in some places accompany these angular
fragments of fossil wood. We found this day a new ERIOSTEMON allied to E.
BREVIFOLIUM, with small knobby fleshy leaves[*]; also a fine new shrubby
EURYBIA.[**] Scattered plants of BOSSIOEA RHOMBIFOLIA also appeared in
the adjacent gullies; and LORANTHUS SUBFALCATUS (Hook), was parasitical
on trees. We encamped on the margin of the rich plain N. of Camp XLIX,
and about a mile distant from it, our draught oxen being very weak and
leg-weary. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 73°; at
9, 44°;--with wet bulb, 40°.
[* E. RHOMBEUM (Lindl. MS.); ramulis pubescentibus, foliis carnosis
obtuse rhombeis revolutis subtus glabris, pedicellis terminalibus
unifloris tomentosis foliis brevioribus, staminibus pilosis.]
[* E. SUBSPICATA (Hook. MS.); foliis linearibus obtusis supra glabris
subtus ramisque albo-tomentosis, corymbis terminalibus spiciformibus,
involucri squamis lineari-oblongis albis apice viridipunctatis.]
2D SEPTEMBER.--We recrossed the perfectly level plain formerly mentioned.
We found, on reaching the Claude, that our bridge, then made, had been
much damaged by a flood. The little river was still running, and it was
cheering to learn thus, that rain had fallen at its sources, beyond
which, I had still much to do. We lost no time in repairing our bridge,
so that all things were got across safely. We ascended the undulating
downs along our old track, and where many curious specimens of trees in
flint, lay mixed with the rich black mould. I observed that no entire
sections of trunks were cylindrical, all appearing to have been
compressed so as to present a diameter of two to one. Yuranigh brought me
one specimen which he said was "pine;" (Callitris), which so far
confirmed what has hitherto been observed of the coniferous character of
Australian fossil woods; but, from the appearance of other specimens, I
am not at all convinced that these fossils are all of that description. I
left these beautiful regions with feelings of regret, that the direct
route to the gulf, could not be carried through them. I was rather at a
loss for names of reference to these parts. I had given the name of
Claude to the river; and it occurred to me, that the scenery of the
Mantuan bard, which this painter has so finely illustrated with pastoral
subjects, deserved a congenial name; and that this country might,
therefore, be distinguished by that of the Mantuan Downs and Plains.
About half-way through our former stage, I found water in ponds which had
been formerly dry; and there we encamped, our animals being almost
exhausted. It is one redeeming quality of brigalow scrub, that water is
to be found within its recesses, at times when all other channels or
sources are dry; the soil in which it grows being stiff, retentive, and
usually bare of vegetation. Thermometer at sunrise, 28°; at noon, 73°; at
4 P.M., 78°; at 9, 47°;--with wet bulb, 42°.
3D SEPTEMBER.--Another morning worthy of "Eden in her earliest hour." The
thermometer 31° at day-break, with a little dew. The notes of the magpie
or GYMNORHINA, resounded through the shady brigalow, and the rich browns
and reddish greens of that prolific bush contrasted with its dense grey
shades, were very beautiful. We found the Nogoa much in the same state as
when we left it. No flood had come down the channel of that river. The
tracks of the feet of many natives were visible along the old route, and
bushes had been burnt all along the line; but it is remarkable that in no
case had they injured or defaced the letters and numerals marked on trees
at the various camps, nor disturbed our temporary bridges. We cut our way
through a scrub of brigalow, thus passing camps XLVIII., XLVII., and
XLVI., encamping at a short distance from the latter of these places.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 74°; at 4 P. M., 75°; at 9, 52°;
with wet bulb, 40°.
4TH SEPTEMBER.--The surrounding grass, and also the reeds in the lake,
had been very extensively burnt along our former tracks, and a green crop
was springing to the great gratification and refreshment of our cattle.
Formerly this splendid valley appeared to be uninhabited, but this day,
proofs were not wanting that it was too charming a spot of earth to be
left so. In proceeding over an open part of the plains bordering the
river, we perceived a line of about twelve or fourteen natives before
they had observed us. Through my glass, I saw they were painted red about
the face, and that there were females amongst them. They halted on seeing
us, but some soon began to run, while two very courageously and
judiciously took up a position on each side of a reedy swamp, evidently
with the intention of covering the retreat of the rest. The men who ran
had taken on their backs the heavy loads of the gins, and it was rather
curious to see long-bearded figures stooping under such loads. Such an
instance of civility, I had never before witnessed in the Australian
natives towards their females; for these men appeared to carry also some
of the uncouth-shaped loads like mummies. The two acting as a rear guard
behaved as if they thought we had not the faculty of sight as well as
themselves, and evidently believed that by standing perfectly still, and
stooping slowly to a level with the dry grass, when we passed nearest to
them, they could deceive us into the idea that they were stumps of burnt
trees. After we had passed, they were seen to enter the brigalow, and
make ahead of us; by which movement I learnt that part of the tribe was
still before us. Some time afterwards, we overtook that portion when
crossing an open interval of the woods; they made for the scrub on seeing
us. Meanwhile columns of smoke ascended in various directions before us,
and two natives beyond the river, were seen to set up a great blaze
there. To the westward of the beautifully broken rocky woody range beyond
Lake Salvator, a dense smoke also arose, and continued until evening;
thus adding much sublimity to the effect of a gorgeous sunset, which
poured its beams through the smoke between the rocky pinnacles, as I sat
drawing the scene at my camp by the lake, two miles northward of XLV.
Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 67°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 39°;--
with wet bulb, 32°.
5TH SEPTEMBER.--The cooler air reminded us that we had returned to a more
elevated region than that on the Belyando. This morning heavy clouds of
cumulostratus promised more rain, and gave a cool day for the last effort
of the jaded animals, which the driver doubted could not be driven much
farther. I cut off all the roundabouts and steep pulls, where this could
be done, by laying logs across such gullies as we were obliged to cross.
We thus saw more of the river and its romantic scenery, which well
deserved the name of a painter. No natives, nor columns of smoke, were
seen this day; and I concluded that they concentrated the tribe
yesterday, and had departed this morning. We finally took up a very snug
position near the pyramids, in the very gorge of the mountain valley by
which we had approached this country; camp XLVI. being within sight, and
the swamp with the spring, at the foot of this hill on which we now
encamped, as a camp of occupation during my intended absence, on an
excursion with horses only, to the north-west. The genial influence of
spring had already induced many plants to show their colours, which had
formerly been passed by us unnoticed. In the sandy soil, grew the purple-
flowered CHLOANTHES STOECHADIS; THE ACACIA CUNNINGHAMII; the pink-
flowered CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA; and a species of CALYTRIX; these two
forming small shrubs, the latter from four to six feet high. A very
handsome new BORONIA, with large white and red downy flowers, here first
appeared in the open forest.[*] The rocks were partly covered with a
small white-flowered shrub, which proved to be a new species of
LEPTOSPERMUM allied to L. PUBESCENS, but perfectly distinct.[**] At the
foot of them, was found the AOTUS MOLLIS, a little hoary bush, with
yellow black flowers; a santalaceous plant like CHORETRUM, forming a tree
fifteen or twenty feet high: the CALLITRIS GLAUCA or CUPRESSUS GLAUCA of
ALL. CUNN. (in Hook. Herb.). A small tree, about twenty-five feet high,
proved to be a new species of Acacia, or possibly a variety of A.
CUNNINGHAMII, but handsomer, with larger phyllodia, longer spikes of
flowers, and everywhere clothed with a soft velvety pubescence.[***]
Thermometer, at sunrise, 33°; at noon, 68°; at 4 P. M., 64°; at 9, 40°;--
with wet bulb, 31°.
[* B. ERIANTHA (Lindl. MS.); foliis pinnatis cum impari 1-3-jugis,
foliolis glaberrimis linearibus retusis emarginatisque laevibus,
pedunculis solitariis unifloris axillaribus foliis brevioribus, sepalis
triangularibus glabris, petalis tomentosis, staminibus 8.]
[** L. SERICATUM (Lindl. MS.); foliis obovatis linearibus planis obtusis
aveniis impunctatis utrinque sericeis, calycibus tomentosis dentibus
acutis persistentibus.]
[*** A. LONGISPICATA (Benth. MS.) pube brevi mollissima vestita, ramulis
elevato-angulatis, phyllodiis amplis falcatis utrinque angustatis
subcoriaceis tenuiter striato-multinervibus nervis 3-5 validioribus,
spicis elongato-cylindricis densis, calyce dentato corolla 2-3-plo
breviore, ovario villoso.]