Chapter V.

CROSS THE MARANOA WITH A LIGHT PARTY.--SEND BACK FOR ONE DRAY AND THE

FRESHEST TEAM.--JUNCTION OF A RIVER FROM N.N.W.--FOLLOW UP THE MINOR

BRANCH.--A DAY'S RAIN, AND RECONNAISSANCE TO THE N.W.--HOSTILE TRIBE.--

HOW DISPERSED.--CROSS POSSESSION CREEK.--ARRIVE AT A SMALL RIVER FROM THE

WEST.--CROSS IT, AND REACH ANOTHER.--AGAIN RIDE TO THE N.W.--DETERMINE TO

FOLLOW THE FIRST RIVER DOWN-WARDS.--AGAIN ARRIVE ON THE MARANOA.--CROSS

THE SECOND RIVER FROM THE WEST.--ASCEND A SMALL ROCKY HILL.--MOUNT OWEN

AGAIN RECOGNIZED.--TRAVEL IN THAT DIRECTION.--THROUGH SCRUBS, AND OVER

SANDY GROUND.--AGAIN WANT WATER.--TURN TO THE MARANOA.--FIND ITS CHANNEL

DRY.--ASCEND MOUNT OWEN.--RIDE OF RECONNAISSANCE.--DISTANT MOUNTAINS.--

ADVANCE WITH THE PARTY.--ASCEND MOUNT P. P. KING.--THE RIVER WARREGO

DISCOVERED.--IT TURNS TO THE S.W.,--THE PARTY CROSSES IT.--MOUNT

FARADAY.--THE PYRAMIDS.--RIVER SALVATOR.--THE SALVATOR JOINS THE NOGOA.--

COURSE OF THE NOGOA, N.E.--CROSS IT AND CUT THROUGH TEN MILES OF SCRUB,

IN A N.W. DIRECTION.--THE RIVER CLAUDE DISCOVERED.--FINE OPEN DOWNS.--

BALMY CREEK, AND VERY DIFFICULT COUNTRY.--TOWER ALMOND.--MOUNT MUDGE.--

LINE OF RIVER SEEN TO THE NORTHWARD.

4TH JUNE.--EVERY preparation having been made, I bade Mr. Kennedy adieu,

for at least four months, and crossed the Maranwith my party and light

carts. It was not without very much regret that I thus left this zealous

assistant, and so large a portion of my men, behind, in departing on a

hazardous enter prise, as this was likely to be, where the population

might be numerous. Anxiety for the safety of the party left, predominated

with me, for whatever might be the danger of passing and repassing

through these barbarous regions, that of a party stationary for a length

of time in one place, seemed greater, as they were more likely to be

assailed by assembled numbers, and more exposed to their cunning and

treachery. I gave to Mr. Kennedy the best advice I could, and we parted

in the hope of a happy meeting, at the period of my return--a hope, I

must confess, I could not indulge in then, with any degree of pleasure,

looking forward to the many difficulties we were prepared to encounter,

and considering the state of my own health.

The sandy bed of the river was difficult to cross with the carts, and

delayed us an hour. A different adjustment of the loads was necessary;

therefore I was obliged to turn out of my intended route for this day,

and go into a bight of the river for water, in making a much shorter

journey. This was only of six miles from the depôt camp. Amongst the

waterworn pebbles in the bed of the river, we found various portions of

coal and the rocky sections in parts of the banks resembled its

concomitant strata. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at 9 P.M., 40°.

5TH JUNE.--The ground was sandy, and several gullies descending to the

river occasioned difficulties which tried the mettle of our horses, and

convinced me that we now carried too much weight for them. I accordingly

sent back Edward Taylor and another man with a note to Mr. Kennedy, and

with directions to pick out ten good bullocks, and bring forward one of

the drays as soon as possible. We met with various dry channels of

tributaries so deep and rocky, that they seemed, at first sight, like the

main river. I wished to reach the bank of this, at a favourable point to

encamp at, and await the arrival of the expected dray. But there gullies

rendered the access difficult. Sand and callitris covered the

intermediate ground, and augmented the impediments the horses had to

contend with. After crossing three rather important channels, I turned to

the N. E., and fortunately came upon the river, where the ground was very

open, and the acclivities gentle. The bed of the river was full of water,

forming a long reach covered with a red weed, the course from north to

south, straight. Height above the sea, 1190 feet. This we marked XXXI.,

last camp being XXX. Thermometer, at sunrise, 24°; at 4 P.M., 70°; at 9,

43°.

6TH JUNE.--Taylor arrived early with a fine team and strong dray,

confident in being able to keep up with the carts, and lightly loaded, of

course, that he might cross heavy sand, or deep gullies. I employed the

time usefully, in adapting Mr. Kennedy's measurements to my map. I had

now measured bases, besides those of latitude for my trigonometrical

work, and I should not have regretted even a day longer in camp, to have

had more time to protract angles, but time was too precious, as my men

were voluntarily on very reduced rations. The DODONOEA HIRTELLA of Miquel

was the only novelty found here. Latitude 26° 6' 25" S. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 30°; at noon, 75°; at 4 P.M., 76°; at 9, 50°.

7TH JUNE.--We set off at a better pace this morning, and kept it up, as

we found the ground firmer, and less broken. Several hollows with water-

courses in them, lay in our way, but presented no serious impediment. At

length, I saw some of the heads of River-Head Range, and a long ridge

appeared before us. On ascending it obliquely, following up the smooth

clay floor of a water-course, I found myself gradually entangled in a bad

scrub of brigalow and rosewood. After cutting our way through it, for a

mile and a half, I sought on the other side for any hollow leading off

water, and found one which brought us into an open forest flat with a

fine chain of ponds. The Acacia pendula appeared on its skirts; and, at

length, abundance of water, also, in the ponds. The grass was so

luxuriant near one of these, that I encamped beside it, without seeking

the river, to which these ponds seemed adjacent. Thermometer, at sunrise,

36°; at 4 P.M., 85°; at 9, 70° (XXXII.). Height above the sea, 1309 feet.

8TH JUNE.--The country beyond this camp in a northerly direction was very

fine. The Acacia pendula, open forests, and gently undulating country

intersected by chains of ponds then dry, were its characteristics. At

length, we reached the river bank, and could travel along it to the west.

Just there, I perceived the junction of a river (perhaps the main

channel) from the N. N. W. It seemed full of water, whereas that which I

was obliged to follow, being the most westerly, was nearly dry, although

its banks were boldly broken, and precipitous. Its course came round even

from S. W., and deep ravines and water-courses coming into it, obliged me

to travel to the southward of that bearing in order to avoid them. We

thus, at length, came into a fine open grassy country, tolerably level,

and could resume a north-west course. In that direction, we crossed a

water-course from the S. W., and came to another in a deeper valley,

where we saw natives, who did not run away. There was a water-hole

nearest to our side, and one from which a native was ascending when I

approached. I directed the men (having encamped here) to keep the cattle

from that water-hole, if possible, anxious to avoid giving any offence on

this delicate point to the natives of these forests. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 36°; at 4 P. M., 85°; at 9, 70°. (XXXIII.)

9TH JUNE.--The sky being overcast, and rain likely to fall, I considered

that the bullocks' necks might be galled by the yokes in wet weather;

and, being in some doubt about finding water in the direction in which I

wished now to travel, I set out with two men on horseback to explore the

country to the N. W., leaving the party to enjoy a day's rest. Little

rain fell, and the ride was very pleasant. A perfume like that of hay,

but much more fragrant, arose from the moistened vegetation, and I found

a beautiful country of open forest with ACACIA PENDULA in graceful

clumps. A few miles on, we were suddenly hailed from behind a few bushes,

by about twenty-five natives, painted red. We halted and endeavoured to

talk to them, but not a word was intelligible to Yuranigh, who was with

me. In vain he inquired about rivers, or water, in his language, and in

vain they bawled to us in theirs: so, after this unintelligible parley at

some distance, (for they would not come close up,) we rode on. We came at

length on a sandy country with much Callitris, but the whole surface was

undulating, and we crossed several chains of deep ponds, all falling to

our right, or eastward; some containing water. At length, I perceived on

the right, a deeper valley, and found in it a little river with a rocky

bed, and coming from the N. N. W. At two miles further, along my N. W.

course, I found it crossed it, coming from W. S. W., and here I turned,

well pleased to find an abundant supply of water, and a good country in

the best direction for our interior journey. The river ran chiefly on

rock, and the water was plentiful. Having returned to the camp, in the

evening, after sunset we were called to by a numerous tribe of natives,

assembled on the opposite steep bank of the chain of ponds, over which we

had encamped. By the particular cooey, I recognised the same party we had

seen in the morning. Their language was now loud and angry, and war was

evidently their purpose; from experience I judged it best to nip the evil

in the bud, and ordered five men under arms, who were first formed in

line before the tents, and with whom, at the bugle's sound, I advanced

steadily up the opposite bank, as our only reply to all their loud

jeering noise. They set up a furious yell on our approach, and advanced

to the brow of the cliff, as if prepared to defend it; but as we silently

ascended, they fell off, and, by the time we gained the height, they had

retired to a considerable distance, still shouting vociferously. Two,

however, were seen drawing round our left flank, in a little gully,

followed by a female carrying spears. I discharged my rifle over their

heads, upon which they hastened to their fellows. On firing another shot

over the dark noisy mass before us, they became suddenly quite silent,

probably persuaded that we were really in earnest. We marched through

their camp, made a feint, by descending into a gully, of coming upon them

unawares, and continued there, until silence and darkness secured our

peaceful occupation of the ground. Thus I prevented a night of alarms and

noise, which might have been kept up until morning, and until they had

worked themselves into that sort of frenzy, without which I do not think

they have courage to fight Europeans; and having once got their steam up,

they were sure to have followed us, and gathered a savage population in

our rear. Lat., 25° 54' 17" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 56°; at 4 P. M.,

70; at 9, 50°. (XXXIII.)

10TH JUNE.--We advanced at an early hour, crossing Possession Creek, for

so we called it (and which proved rather an impediment, until we filled a

hollow with logs), and followed my horse's tracks of yesterday. Thus we

reached the little river in good time, notwithstanding much heavy sand in

the way of our carts, and encamped at the furthest point I had previously

visited. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P.M., 75°; at 9, 39°. Height

above the sea, 1240 feet. (XXXIV.)

11TH JUNE.--Keeping along the bank of the rocky river, we were obliged to

turn southward, and even S.S.E., such was the direction whence the river

came. I therefore encamped the party, after a journey of only 3½ miles,

and proceeded to explore again, towards the N. W. I thus came upon the

rocky river where the rock formed a bridge affording an easy means of

crossing it, and this I valued more, as being the only passable place I

had seen in it, so deep and rocky was the bed elsewhere. The strata at

this bridge dipped N. N. E., a circumstance which induced me to travel

westward instead of N. W., in hopes to cross thereby sooner, a synclinal

line, and so arrive at the sources of some northern river. We passed

through some scrub, and attained, by gradual ascent, considerable

elevation. The country in general consisted of open forest, and contained

grass in great abundance. At nine miles, I came upon a chain of ponds

falling northward, and in which were two good ponds of water, whereupon I

returned to the camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 38°; at 9 P.M., 38°.

Height above the sea, 1287 feet. (XXXV.)

12TH JUNE.--The rock about the river here was deeply impressed with

ripple marks, and also dipped N.N.E. or northward. It consisted of a

yellow sandstone in thin strata, covered in some parts with beds of

waterworn pebbles. These consisted chiefly of quartz, felspar, and a

silicious petrifaction of woody appearance. We proceeded along my horse

track of yesterday. In crossing what seemed a principal ridge on which

grew brigalow scrub (through which we had, in parts, to cut a way), we

came upon a fine specimen of the Bottle Tree (DELABECHEA); near it grew

the GEIJERA PARVIFLORA, which did not attain a greater height than 10

feet. I found by the syphon barometer that our height above the sea was

here 1579 feet. By the same gauge I found that two other ridges further

on were still higher (1587 feet). In the afternoon, the sky became

overcast with dark, round, heavy clouds, and in the evening, slight

showers fell. Thermometer, at sunrise, 20°; at noon, 74°; at 4P.M., 73°;

at 9, 60°. The wind and clouds came from the west.

13TH JUNE.--The line of ponds we were upon might turn to the northward;

nevertheless I was unwilling to follow them down, and again lose westing,

until I had made another attempt to penetrate to the N. W. The morning

was rainy, and, as in such weather travelling was likely to gall the

necks of the bullocks, I halted the party, and took a ride in that

direction. I encountered much soft sand and scrubs of brigalow, rosewood,

and Callitris. Scrubs of the latter were most dense and continuous. I

fell in with a goodly little river at five miles; its course there was

from S. W. to N. E. Beyond it, I found the country still more sandy,

although intersected by one or two water-courses falling to the

northward. The furthest one, at fifteen miles from our camp, had in it

ponds containing no water. It seemed near the source, and that we had

almost reached the crest of some dividing feature. A thunder-storm then

burst over us, and the time of day did not admit of going further. I

therefore returned, convinced that I could not in that direction make

much progress.* Thermometer, at sunrise, 49°; at noon, 57°; at 4 P.M.,

54°; at 9, 48°.

[* This was unfortunate: it will be seen by the map, that ten miles

further would have taken me to the river Warregin a direct line to the

head of the river Victoria, avoiding the mountains.]

14TH JUNE.--A drizzling rain continued, and the barometer indicated a

change; hence I hoped the rain would last until the water-holes were

filled. The day being Sunday, I gave the party another day of rest, and

took that opportunity of laying down on my map, the recently discovered

rivers and water-courses. It was only after I had done so, that I began

to think the water-course we were encamped upon, was worth following

down. The evening was clear, and I ascertained the latitude to be 25° 47'

28" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 52°; at noon, 55°; at 4 P.M., 57°; at 9,

38° (XXXVI.). Height above the sea, 1528 feet.

15TH JUNE.--In following down this chain of ponds, we found its channel

became a well-formed river, with abundance of water in it, a few miles

below our camp. The course thus far was northward; and I saw in one part

of it rocks dipping to the westward. I was in expectation that it would

have continued northward, when it suddenly turned towards the S.S.W. I

thereupon crossed it, and resumed my N.W. course. My path was thus again

crossed by our river flowing northward: we had then travelled 12½ miles,

and I encamped on its banks. The whole of the day's journey, with little

exception, had been over heavy sand, and, but for the rain that had

fallen, it must have greatly distressed the horses and oxen. As it was,

they got over it wondrous well. In a pond of this river, Mr. Stephenson

caught a great number of the harlequin fish, a circumstance almost

proving that this was a tributary to the Maran. We found this day a new

narrow-leaved TRISTANIA[*], thirty feet high, with bark thick, soft, and

fibrous. A smooth narrow-leaved variety of ACACIA HOLOSERICEA was loaded

with spikes of crooked sickle-shaped pods. Among the herbage was observed

the TEUCRIUM ARGUTUM of Brown; and the XEROTES LEUCOCEPHALA grew in the

light dry sand. Novelty in the plants, animals, and fishes, was now to be

expected; the weather was cool and pleasant, and our travelling equipment

tolerably efficient. Thermometer, at sunrise, 30°; at 4 P. M., 58°; at 9

P. M., 46° (XXXVII.). Height above the sea, 1827 feet.

[* T. ANGUSTIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-linearibus

mucronatoacuminatis supra glabris subtùs subsericeis marginibus arcte

revolutis, paniculis terminalibus folio brevioribus calycibusque incano-

tomentosis. These specimens were in fruit. It is very distinct from every

other species.]

16TH JUNE.--Proceeding nearly north-west, we met with the little river I

had discovered a few miles beyond my camp of the 13th and 14th instant.

The distance of this point from the camp we had left this morning was

about 2½ miles. We crossed it, and turned to the westward, and even

south-west, to avoid it. Over its extreme south-western bend there was a

little rocky hill, which I ascended, and thence saw a mountain I had

intersected from the high station east of the depôt. It now bore 12° west

of north, and I directed my course towards it, as well as the country

would permit. We crossed several sandy ranges on which the callitris was,

as usual, the chief tree, as it was also on the soft heavy sand between

them. Occasionally, the lowest parts where water would take its course,

consisted of firm clay, and we took advantage of such flats, when their

direction was favourable. I was at length under the necessity of

encamping on one of these, where there was no water, nor any to be found

in it after I had followed it down four miles. In my search for water, I

found a curious new PHEBALIUM.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 9 P.

M., 54°. Height above the sea, 1646 feet.

[* P. GLANDULOSUM (Hook. MS.); foliis angusto-lineari-cuneatis retusis

canaliculatis marginibus revolutis subtus ramulisque argenteo-lepidotis

superne (praecipue) grosse glandulosis nudis, corymbis terminalibus

parvis sessilibus fusco-lepidotis, calycibus subtruncatis, petalis ovatis

concavis. Allied to P. SQUAMULOSUM and P. ELOEAGNOIDES, but very

distinct, especially in the presence of the large semipellucid

hemispherical glands, seen more or less in various parts of the plant,

but very conspicuous on the upper side of the leaves.]

17TH JUNE.--Pursuing a course in the direction of the mountain already

mentioned, I met with much heavy sand on which grew thick forests of

callitris, frequently quite impervious to our carts except at open places

amongst which we had to wind, as they permitted. The ground was

undulating, and there was clay in the hollows, but the direction of these

ran across my intended route, falling all to the east-ward. We at length

attained what seemed the highest of these ridges, and on the summit I

ascertained its elevation to be 1833 feet above the sea. Beyond it, we

came to a flat of firmer surface, consisting of clay, and, as we greatly

wanted water, I followed it down to the north-east. I found it soon

hemmed in by sandstone rocks; but we travelled still on a broad grassy

flat which fell into one still broader, through which ran a continuous

but dry channel coming from the north-west. After following this

downwards about a mile, we crossed towards an opening between the

sandstone cliffs beyond it; this opening terminated under shelving rocks.

Ascending at another place, with my horse, I found a table-land above,

and an open forest country. I succeeded in getting the carts and dray up

at a rocky point, and travelled thence E.S.E., anxious now to find the

Maran, convinced by a deep ravine on our right, that it could not be far

off. We descended by a gently inclined part of the sandstone to a dry

watercourse lined with brigalow, and which soon guided us to the river.

Here, however, the bed was dry and full of sand, of spacious and uniform

breadth, and with grassy sloping banks. The course was towards S.W., and

I followed it upwards, in hopes soon to meet with a pond. No water,

however, was to be seen, when a rocky precipitous bank before us, and the

sun setting in the west, obliged me to encamp the party. I hastened up

the dry channel, followed by all the horses and the bullocks. We found

some rain water on a level piece of rock, about two miles from the camp,

which was scarcely enough for the horses, and afforded a few gallons for

our kegs; nor could I find more, although I continued my search upwards

until dusk; the bullocks had therefore to pass a second night without

drinking. The bed and banks of this river were of very uniform extent

throughout; averaging, in width about 100 feet; in height of banks from

30 to 50 feet. The course was straight, and it seemed as if a few dams

might have sufficed to render it navigable, or at least to have retained

a vast supply of water; for although the bed was sandy, the bottom was

rocky, and the banks consisted of stiff clay. These being covered with

rich grass, and consisting of good soil, water alone was wanting to make

the whole both valuable and useful. Yet this was not so scarce amongst

the gullies and tributaries, nor in the channel itself, lower down. I

found, growing in the bed, the ALPHITONIA EXCELSA of Reissek, collected

by Allan Cunningham and Frazer along the Brisbane and upper part of

Hunter's River; also a remarkable kind of Brome grass I had never seen on

the Darling. Thermometer, at sunrise, 36°; at 9 P. M., 61°.

18TH JUNE.--Drizzling rain had fallen during the night, which greatly

refreshed the grass for the cattle. Early this morning, I sent Corporal

Graham and another man, up the river, in search of water; and the

bullock-driver with his cattle down the river, with orders to go on until

he fell in with some. Others of the party were directed to search amongst

the rocky crevices nearer to our camp. I set out with Yuranigh for the

summit of the mountain already mentioned, which, according to my survey,

lay about seven miles off to the N.W. My ride to it was unimpeded by

gullies; and, on ascending it, I obtained a most extensive view,

embracing lofty ranges to the eastward and south-east. A line of volcanic

cones (of which this was one) extended from these ranges in the direction

of about N.E.b.N. But, besides these elevated summits, little could be

seen of the adjacent country: nothing of the sandstone gullies, by which

the party was then shut in. I could only imagine one bluey tint in a long

line of ravines, to be over the bed of the Maran, which seemed thus to

pass through the line of cones, and to come from high ranges about the

25th parallel. The country to the northward was still hidden from my

sight by a portion of the old crater which was higher than that I had

ascended. The western interior was visible to a great distance bounded by

low ranges; some of which seemed to have precipitous sides, like cliffs,

towards the west. Lines of open plains, and columns of smoke, indicated a

good country, and inhabitants. I recognised, from this station, that

eastward of the depôt camp, to which, from the peculiar interest then

attaching to that distant spot, I now named Mount Kennedy after the

officer in charge of the party there. I could now intersect many of the

summits observed therefrom; thus adding extensively to the general map,

and checking my longitude, by back angles into the interior. I was now at

a loss for names to the principal summits of the country. No more could

be gathered from the natives, and I resolved to name the features, for

which names were now requisite, after such individuals of our own race as

had been most distinguished or zealous in the advancement of science, and

the pursuit of human knowledge; men sufficiently well-known in the world

to preclude all necessity for further explanation why their names were

applied to a part of the world's geography, than that it was to do honour

to Australia, as well as to them. I called this hill Mount Owen; a bald-

forest hill to the N.E. of it, Mount Clift; a lofty truncated cone, to

the eastward of these, the centre of a group, and one of my zero points,

Mount Ogilby; a broad-topped hill far in the north-west, where I wished

to continue my route, Mount Faraday; a high table land intervening,

Hope's Table Land; the loftiest part of the coast ranges, visible on all

sides, Buckland's Table Land, etc. etc. The part of Mount Owen on which I

stood, consisted of basalt, which had crystallised cubically so as to

form a tottering pile on the summit, not unlike the ruins of a castle,

"nodding to its fall," and almost overhanging their base. Curious bushes

grew amongst these rocks, unlike those in the lower country; amongst

them, a climber, resembling a worm, which wholly enveloped a tree. On

returning to the camp, I learnt that the bullock-driver had found a

spacious basin in a rocky part of the bed, some miles down the river;

having thereat watered his cattle and returned; also, that Corporal

Graham had met with a pond ten miles higher up the river than our camp:

thus it was evident that many miles intervened between these two ponds in

the river. The other men left at the camp had fortunately found in the

crevice of a rock beyond the river-channel, enough of water for the

horses and themselves. But, had this river-channel contained much more

water, I could not have followed it in its upward course, and so go to

the north-east, instead of the north-west; neither had this been possible

from the precipitous rocks overhanging it at almost every turning. I had

found, in Mount Owen, a nucleus, which was a key to these sandstone

gullies radiating about it, and I had also perceived from it that towards

Mount Faraday, the north-western interior was tolerably clear of

mountainous obstructions; three small or very distant cones, seemed the

principal features beyond it. I wished much to have explored a route for

our carts in that direction; but it was necessary that I should first

establish the party near water. I accordingly determined to conduct it

along the range towards Mount Owen next day, as far as might be

necessary, in order to turn off to the right, and encamp, overlooking

some rocky gully within a convenient distance of Mount Owen; and, again

to explore these recesses for water, or send for it to Corporal Graham's

pond in the main channel. Mr. Stephenson gathered near this camp two

beautiful and delicate ferns, the ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM, and ADIANTUM

ASSIMILE, the Australian maiden's hair. The ACACIA IXIOPHYLLA, and ACACIA

CUNNINGHAMII, on the rocky cliffs; occurred with an Exocarpus, probably a

variety of E. SPARTEA, and a new Eucalyptus.[*] Thermometer at sunrise,

56°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 63°; at 9, 55°. Height above the sea, 1578

feet; and above river bed 40 feet.

[* E. POPULIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis rhombeo-triangularibus obtusissimis

longius petiolatis coriaceis minute punctatis (punctis pallidis)

reticulatovenosis. This species is remarkable in the size and shape of

its petiolated leaves. The branches bear turbinated woody excrescences

(galls), each with two or more, generally three, sharp angles, and as

many unequal projecting wings, altogether exactly resembling the fruit of

some BEGONIÀ.]

19TH JUNE.--Another dewy night had providentially refreshed the grass for

our thirsty animals. We ascended, at a very favourable point, the

sandstone table-land, and travelled for some miles along my horse's track

towards Mount Owen, turning round the heads of gullies which broke

abruptly in steep rocks both to our right and left. Then, turning to the

right, where a branch of the high land projected eastward towards the

river, we encamped on its extreme eastern point, overlooking a grassy

valley, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, yet easily accessible to our

horses and cattle, from the point on which we had encamped. I had already

found a deep hole in a rock on the right, containing water sufficient for

the men and horses for several days, and, on riding down the valley while

they pitched the tents, I found a large pond only a mile from the camp.

The valley contained many still larger, but all, save this one, were dry.

Grass grew there in great abundance, and of excellent quality. Pigeons

were numerous of that species (GEOPHAPS SCRIPTA) which is so great a

luxury; the most delicate food, perhaps, of all the feathered race. The

highest of the sandy tableland crossed this day appeared (by Captain

King's subsequent calculations) to be 1863 feet. That of the camp over

the cliffs, 1840 feet above the sea, the height of these cliffs above the

bed of the river being thus about 300 feet. Thermometer, at sunrise, 50°;

at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 61°.

20TH JUNE.--I set out (with two men and Yuranigh) to explore the country

beyond Mount Owen. From its base I observed some open forest land, and a

less broken country, in a direction much further to the westward than the

course I had previously selected, which was N.N.W. I now proceeded W.N.W.

towards that open forest land. We found the country open for some miles,

then, entering a flat or valley, I descended gradually between sandstone

rocks, to a valley in which a chain of deep ponds led to the north-west.

On following this down, I found it turned more and more to the westward,

and at length to the south-west, whereupon I quitted its bed and cliffy

banks, and, following up a ravine from the other side, again endeavoured

to pursue my intended course. We crossed, at the head of the ravine, a

sandstone range, and descended by another valley which led first

northward, but terminated in joining a spacious grassy flat with dry

ponds in it. I endeavoured to trace this downwards for several miles in a

rainy evening, and found at last, to my disappointment, that this also

turned to the S.W. This flat was broad and hemmed in by low rocky points

of ground, of very uniform shape. Many marks of natives appeared on the

trees, and, in good seasons, it must be one of their favourite spots. I

left it, however, when darkness and heavy rain obliged me to look for

shelter in a gloomy forest to the westward. By the time we arrived at

this, we could see no grassy spot for our horses, nor any sort of cover

for ourselves. Douglas found, at length, a fallen tree, and under this,

covered with a few boughs, we lay down on the wet earth for the night,

being ourselves as wet, yet wanting withal, water for ourselves and

horses. Thermometer, at sunrise, 54°; at noon, 69°; at 4 P.M., 67°; at 9,

57°.

21ST JUNE.--The rain had abated to my great disappointment, for we should

have been amply compensated for wet jackets, by the sight of well filled

ponds of water, the want of which was the great impediment to this

journey. The sky was still overcast, and the wet bushes were unavoidable.

On I travelled north-west, until we approached some fine open forest

hills, the bare tops of which, just visible from the foot of Mount Owen,

had first drawn me in that direction. One tempting peak induced me to

approach it, and to think of an ascent. In a rugged little water-course

in its bosom, we found water enough for our horses, the product of last

night's rain. The view from the summit, made up for the deviation from my

route. A group of the most picturesque hills imaginable lay to the

northward, and were connected with this, the whole being branches from

the Table Land of Hope. Some appeared of a deep blue colour, where their

clothing was evergreen bush. Others were partly of a golden hue, from the

rich ripe grass upon them. The sun broke through the heavy clouds and

poured rays over them, which perfected the beauty of the landscape. I

recognised, from this apex, my station on Mount Owen, and several hills I

had intersected from it. Amongst others, the three remarkable cones to

the westward of Mount Faraday, apparently a continuation of the line of

summits I have already mentioned. This hill consisted of amygdaloidal

trap in nodules, the crevices being filled with crystals of sulphate of

lime, and there were many round balls of ironstone, like marbles or round

shot, strewed about. A red ferruginous crust projected from the highest

part, and, on this summit, the magnetic needle was greatly affected by

local attraction, and quite useless. Fortunately, I had also my pocket

sextant, and with it took some valuable angles. On descending, I heartily

enjoyed a breakfast, and named the hill which gave us the water, Mount

Aquarius. Returning towards Mount Owen, by a more direct route, I arrived

at the head of a gully which led tolerably direct until we found our

track, in the creek I had run down on the preceding day. But night was

approaching, and we had water enough in a rocky hollow, and also a cavern

before which a large fire gave such warmth, that, in passing the night

there in my cloak, I was quite insensible to a frost without, which, at

the camp, at 4 P. M., had lowered the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer

to 22°, or 10° below the freezing point.

22D JUNE.--Our provisions being out, I hastened back to the camp,

determined to explore in a more northerly direction, according to my

original intention. Water was only to be found in so dry a season, in the

neighbourhood of mountains, or in rocky gullies likely to retain a

passing shower. In our way back, I ascended the north-western shoulder of

Mount Owen, and was much more inclined to take a northerly route, from

the appearance of the mountains on that side. The view from that summit

to the northward, was very grand; I saw more plainly the line of the

Maranfrom its upper sources. Two mighty masses of table-land seemed the

highest of all. One I had already seen and named Buckland's Table Land. I

could here distinguish the apex of Mount Aquarius, and fix it in my map.

I perceived a hollow part of the range immediately to the northward, and

a sort of hiatus amongst the peaks in the broken country beyond, through

which I hoped to find a way. I hastened to the camp to prepare for a

"raid" of a whole week, if necessary, in that direction. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 27°; at noon, 52°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 59°.

23D JUNE.--Returning early by the foot of Mount Owen, I travelled nearly

northward through a fine open forest, in which we saw a large kangaroo

entirely black. Rocky gullies next came in my way, and, in avoiding those

on the left, others falling to the right, or to the Maran, showed me that

this was a dividing feature. I knew it was continuous to Mount Clift from

my former observations, and therefore followed it by keeping between the

heads of gullies breaking to each side, until I found one favourable for

a descent to the left. Below, we found a broad, grassy, valley, extending

about W.N.W., and in it, deep ponds, which sometimes evidently held much

water, although they were then dry. This soon, however, turned to the

south-west, evidently to join the channel I had before explored. Quitting

it, therefore, much disappointed, I ascended sandstone cliffs and pushed

through scrubs, determined to proceed directly north-ward, until I met

with valleys falling north-west. We thus passed just under the most

easterly part of Hope's Table Land, and came, about sunset, to a hollow

containing ponds, in two of which we found water. Here we gladly

bivouacked for the night. ZAMIAS grew here, and were numerous higher up

the valley. Thermometer, at sunrise, 26°; at noon, 54°; at 4 P. M., 50°;

at 9, 40°.

24TH JUNE.--The hoar-frost had stiffened the grass, and the water was

frozen so that the horses cared not to drink. I proceeded N. N. W., in

which direction a beautiful cone rose to a great height, and sharp apex.

Stony hills of trap appearing also in that line, I turned northward, and,

after crossing a level tract of high ground, much like a dividing

feature, (especially as seen from Mount Owen,) I entered a valley

descending to the northwest. It fell rapidly, contained large water

holes, and in two of these, at length, an abundant supply of water. The

course, throughout all its windings, was towards the north-west, and this

I, at the time, thought, might be a northern water. I therefore returned,

anxious to bring the party thus far, at all events, and resolved to

follow this little river down. We arrived, on our way back, in the

evening of the same day, in the valley I had quitted in the morning,

having followed down a water-course from the end of Hope's Table Land,

under which I had passed, in search of a good way for the carts. Although

we had seen promising ponds of water in this little channel, we could

find none in the lower part, having in the expectation of finding some,

rode on until darkness prevented me from going further. We were thus

obliged to pass the night (a very cold one) without water, and almost

without fuel. I missed the comfortable cavern where I had slept a few

nights before, especially when I arose here in the night to mend the

fire, and found we had no more wood at hand. I learnt afterwards that at

the camp, the thermometer at 4 P. M. had been as low as 17° of

Fahrenheit.[*] Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at noon, 51°; at 4 P. M.

49°; at 9, 29°.

[* This was 15° degrees below the freezing point, and shows how much more

easily cold may be endured in a dry atmosphere than where there is

moisture, as instanced in the following extract from a despatch of

Captain James C. Ross (in command of the Antarctic Expedition), dated 7th

April, 1841, and published in the Tasmanian Journal.

"With a temperature of 20° below the freezing point, we found the ice to

form so rapidly on the surface, that any further examination of the

barrier in so extremely severe a period of the season being

impracticable, we stood away to the westward, for the purpose of making

another attempt to approach the magnetic pole, and reached its latitude

(76° S.) on the 15th February."]

25TH JUNE.--Continuing our ride as soon as day-light permitted, ten

minutes brought us to a pond containing plenty of water under a shelving

rock, and here we alighted to breakfast, which was pleasant enough, but

not so gratifying as the position of this pond, which would enable me to

bring the carts through these valleys, to this convenient intermediate

stage in the way to the Northern river. The next question was, whether

the route to the eastward, descending into these valleys near Mount

Clift, or that by my first route, when I discovered this rocky country,

should be preferred; and I returned towards our camp this morning by the

eastern gullies, in hopes to find an easy descent nearer to Mount Clift

than at the point where I before came down. But I found them much more

acclivitous and rocky. We at length, with difficulty, got our horses up a

rocky point, on which grew a thick scrub of "blackwood," as Yuranigh

called it, an acacia having many tough stems growing thickly together

from one root, and obstructing the passage, and covering the ground with

its half-fallen and fallen timber. Our passage along the range thence

towards Mount Owen, having been too much to the eastward, brought us upon

the bend of a gully falling to the Maran; a wild and impracticable

looking dell as ever was seen. On regaining our track near Mount Owen,

and returning along it to the camp, I found that another pond had been

discovered in the valley, by Felix Maguire, who on two occasions, had

dreamt of water, risen, and walked directly to where he found it! However

that might have been, this man had a happy knack in finding water. In the

neighbourhood of this camp some interesting plants were collected; viz.

NOTHOCHLOENA DISTANS, GRAMMITIS RUTOEFOLIA, CHEILANTHES TENUIFOLIA,

ADIANTUM HISPIDULUM and ASSIMILE, all ferns, together with HOVEA

LANCEOLATA, the weedy SPHOERANTHUS HIRTUS, GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA, a low

shrub, occupying the ravines. Besides these we observed a small species

of SIDA in the sandy soil of forests, the DOODIA CAUDATA Br., a verdant

fern, and the SOLANUM FURFURACEUM with lilac flowers, and small red

berries. A shrub loaded with succulent drupes, seated in reddish cups,

appeared to be a new species of VITEX, but its genus was uncertain, there

being no flowers. What is here called GREVILLEA FLORIBUNDA may have been

an allied species, for the leaves were more downy, almost tomentose

above. In addition to this a new species of the common genus DODONOEA,

frequently met with afterwards, was now producing its flowers.[*]

Thermometer, at sunrise, 12°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M. 51°; at 9, 22°.

[* D. MOLLIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, ramulis subteretibus,

foliis obovatis acutis truncatis rotundatis retusis tridentatisque,

capsulis tetragonis trigonisque pubescentibus apteris.]

26TH JUNE. The party moved forward, at length, with the certainty of

finding water for at least three days' journey, and of a hopeful water-

course being before us. Passing by the foot of Mount Owen, I observed the

barometer which gave an elevation of 2083 feet: the summit might be 700

feet higher. My plan of route was, to enter the little river that turned

to the south-west (as I had found it did, on the 20th,) and to travel

along its valley upwards, until I reached the pond near which I had

bivouacked on the 25th. This we accomplished most successfully before

sunset, encamping beside the large pond already mentioned, near which

were two others. The earth by the margin was so soft that neither the

horses nor bullocks could approach the water; they could only be watered

out of buckets; but the water was excellent, and water of any quality, in

abundance too, was to us rather uncommon good fortune, and quite

cheering, even when surrounded by soft mud. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°;

at noon, 48°; at 4 P. M. 47°; at 9, 37°.

27TH JUNE. We had next to trace up a grassy valley which seemed to come

directly from the vicinity of that in which I had found water and

bivouacked on the 24th. It formed an excellent line, and we found it

possible to keep this fine firm level surface, until we had approached to

within two miles of that spot. Leaving a little hill of trap to the left,

and some brigalow scrub on the right, we reached the old ground and

encamped. The small ponds had evaporated, but, in the frosty night, the

cattle were not likely to require water, as they had been watered on the

way, about 3 P. M., at a rocky well in the valley. We had now traced with

our wheels, a good way through a country much broken and shut up by

sandstone gullies; but which contained also many rich valleys, and

extensive hilly tracts of trap rock, on which the grass was very

luxuriant, apparently available for either sheep or cattle. Immediately

to the westward of this camp (marked XXXVIII.) an extensive valley was

bounded by the fine trap range of Hope's Table Land; which range was open

along the summit, and contained springs, in various ravines along its

sides. In these ravines, we first saw the arborescent Zamia, and various

remarkable shrubs; the MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII of Swan River, forming a

shrub six feet high, with white fragrant flowers. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 20°; at 9 P. M., 29°. Height above the sea, 2064 feet.

28TH JUNE.--Severe frost whenever the sky was clear, seemed the ordinary

weather of that country, at that season; showing, as the barometer also

indicated, that we were at a great height above the sea. I sent the party

forward, guided by Yuranigh, along my former track, to the ponds in the

newly discovered channel, falling north-west; and I proceeded myself,

accompanied by Mr. Stephenson, to the summit of the fine cone already

mentioned. From this, I beheld a splendid and extensive view of the

mountains further northward. Most of the summits I had previously

intersected, and many others, very remarkable, just appeared over an

intermediate woody range, through which I was at a loss to discover where

our supposed northern river would pass. Far in the north-west, I could

just distinguish the tops of curiously broken hills arising from a much

lower country; and therein I hoped to find, whatever might be the final

course of our river, a passage to the north-west, and water. The most

important feature in that scene seemed to me to be a grey misty tint, as

if it marked a valley descending from the highest eastern mountains,

towards the curiously broken summits in the northwest. Bare crests of

similar hills, appeared to arise throughout the whole extent of that

valley. Under those lofty mountains, at such elevation, in such a clime,

with these romantic hills, that valley must be a paradise if watered

well, as I hope it is. So flowed the "spring" of hope at least, as it was

fed by the scene then before me. The cone we had ascended consisted of

trap rock, much resembling that of Mount Aquarius; but, at its base, and

on its sides, I found in large masses, the very compact felspathic rock

which characterises the valley of the Darling. This has been considered a

very fine-grained sandstone; but it is evidently an altered rock. Here,

in contact with trap, it possessed the same tendency to break into

irregular polygons, some of the faces of which were curved; and I

observed one mass which had been so tossed up, that its lower side lay

uppermost, inclined at an angle of about 60°. That this is a hypogene

rock, sometimes in contact with granite as well as with trap, is evident

at Oxley's Table Land, and other places. I was glad to find it here, as

affording a prospect of meeting with better soil than the loose sand we

had seen so much of. We here found the grey, prickly SOLANUM ELLIPTICUM.

I named this cone Mount P. P. King; and, I have since ascertained, by

that officer's register and calculations, the height of this summit above

the sea, to be 2646 feet; and the height of this camp, 2159 feet.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at 4 P. M., 55°; at 9, 25°. (XXXIX)

29TH JUNE.--Crossing a small tributary which was full of water (coming

from Hope's Table Land), we continued to travel along the left bank of

the newly found river. Rocky precipices overhanging it, obliged me to

make some détours, and to pass through some scrubs; but still we regained

the banks of the river, although our progress was not considerable. Its

general course was still north-west, to the spot selected for my second

camp on its banks. The channel was now broad; the banks high, rounded,

and grassy; in some places, rocky. Water in the channel was rarely to be

seen, but at the junction of tributaries, where recent temporary showers

seemed to have fallen. By careful observation, I ascertained the

variation of the needle to be 8° 4' E. here. Thermometer, at sunrise,

25°; at 4 P. M., 68°; at 9, 53°. Height above the sea, 1914 feet. (XL.)

30TH JUNE.--The course of the river was now found to turn to the

southward of west; and, even in that direction, rugged cliffs covered

with scrub greatly impeded our progress. I endeavoured to conduct the

carts along the bed of the river, soft and sandy as it was; but we did

not proceed far in it, before rocks, fallen trees, and driftwood, obliged

us to abandon that course as speedily as we could. Then, ascending a

projecting eminence, we plunged into the scrubs; but, even in a southwest

direction, we came upon the river. Pursuing its course along the bank,

southward, I arrived near the base of a fine open forest hill; and,

directing the party to encamp, I hastened to its summit. I there obtained

a view of most of the mountains of the eastern range formerly observed,

and enough of the fixed points, to enable me to determine the position of

this. In the south-west, a line of open forest, and a vast column of

smoke seemed too plainly to mark the further course of our river; but,

towards the north-west, I saw much to reconcile me to this

disappointment. Summits of broken and uncommon aspect, beyond an

intervening woody range, there indicated a much lower and different kind

of country, as if that was, indeed, the basin of a system of northern

waters; the woody intervening range appearing to be the division between

them. As our last explored river again turned southward, it seemed

reasonable to expect, beyond that very continuous range, rivers pursuing

a different course. This range was plainly traceable from the high

mountains more to the eastward, and was continuous westward to three

remarkable conical hills, beyond which, the view did not extend. On the

same range, a fine tableshaped mountain appeared nearly north. This I had

already intersected from other stations, and named Mount Faraday. The

hill on which I stood consisted of trap-rock, and seemed to be almost the

western extremity of Hope's Table Land. A copious spring was afterwards

found by Mr. Stephenson, in a valley to the eastward of this summit. That

ravine was extensive; and in it grew various remarkable trees. The

bottle-tree (Delabechea) grew more gregariously than we had ever seen it,

in the stony banks of the channel of the torrent from the hills. One

thorny tree or shrub (first seen at the base of Mount P. P. King) again

appeared here; it was, generally, in a withered state; had a leaf

somewhat like the human hand, and a pod containing two peas of a bright

scarlet colour, about the shape and size of a French bean. This,

sometimes grew to a tree as much as a foot in diameter; and the natives,

who, like Nature herself, may be said to do nothing in vain, had cut one

down, and carried off the whole of the trunk. The wood was of a leaden

colour. This proved to be a new species of ERYTHRINA, or coral tree.[*]

By our last day's journey, we had lost two miles of northing, and had

thus recrossed the 25th parallel of south latitude. I therefore

determined to cross our friendly little river, and look for another

beyond the range to the northward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 44°; at noon,

68°; at 4 P. M., 65°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, 1732 feet. (XLI.)

[* E. VESPERTILIO (Benth. MS.); glaberrima, caule fruticoso aculeato,

foliorum petiolo elongato, foliolis trilobis lobo medio recto acutiusculo

lateralibus multo majoribus falcato-divaricatis obtusissimis.--Although

no flowers were seen, the genus of this shrub is well indicated by the

pod and the general habit. The leaflets are often above four inches broad

and not two inches long, not unlike the form of a bat with its wings

extended.]

1ST JULY.--With that view, I rode towards Mount Faraday, anxious to look

into the valley beyond it. After a two hours' ride, I passed under its

western summit, and still pressed forward, in hopes of seeing at length

into the valleys beyond. I thus entered a very thick scrub, so impervious

that I was obliged to turn westward, until I came upon sandstone gullies

into one of which I descended. Following this downwards, I found it fell

to the westward, and in a hollow part of its rocky bed I came to some

clear water. But this was inaccessible, even to my horse, nor could I

take him further down that wildly broken gully; therefore we backed out,

and ascended as we could. Then riding southward in search of one more

accessible, I at length, descended into a grassy valley, which ran

northwest, and gave promise of something still better. I could not follow

it then without provisions, having none with me, and I therefore hastened

back to the camp, resolved to take with me men and provisions sufficient

to enable me to explore this further. In the scrub I passed through on my

way back, I found various very remarkable shrubs new and strange to me.

One grew on a large stalk, from which leaves radiated without other or

any branches. These leaves, hanging gracefully around the stem, gave to

this shrub the resemblance of the plume of a staff-officer. The outer

side of each leaf was dark and shining, the inner white and woolly.

Rarely these tall stems separated into two. Other branches there were

none. Some very beautiful new acacias also grew there. One, in

particular, with leaves exactly similar to those of the silver-leaved

ironbark, was very remarkable, a broad rough-leaved FICUS, with opposite

leaves not unlike those of the New Holland Upas. The white-flowered lead-

wort (PLUMBAGO ZEYLANICA) and the TRIODIA PUNGENS were abundant among the

grasses. A downy Dodonaea, with triangular leaves, was producing its

small flowers[*], and a scrubby bush with hard narrow leaves and globular

fruit the size of a rifle-ball, proved to be a new CAPPARIS.[**]

Thermometer, at daybreak, 35°; at 9 P.M., 38°.

[* D. TRIANGULARIS (Lindl. MS.); molliter pubescens, foliis

obtriangularibus tridentatis, pedunculis masculis axillaribus

subsolitariis.]

[** C. LORANTHIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.) ramosa, inermis, ramulis tomentosis,

foliis lineari-oblongis obtusis coriaceis glabris sesqui-pollicaribus

aveniis, pedunculis solitariis axillaribus tomentosis foliis brevioribus,

stipite duplo longiore, fructu sphaerico tuberculato glabro.]

2D JULY.--Returning with two men and Yuranigh to the valley where I had

been yesterday, I followed it downwards, and soon found that it widened

very much, and contained large dry ponds, with the traces of a deep

current of water at some seasons. At length, the rocky precipices seemed

to recede, and formed occasionally bold headlands of most picturesque

outline. Two, that towered above the woods before us, resembled pyramids,

and I saw an open country beyond them, from which other summits of

extraordinary form seemed to emerge. Yet we had found no moisture in the

ponds, and lamented that a country, in every other respect so fine,

should be without water. Further on, I perceived reeds in the hollow of

the valley, and Yuranigh said there must be a spring, upon which he

walked in amongst them, but still found the earth dry. The reeds at

length covered an extensive flat, and looked, at the lower part of the

flat, so green, that I sent Corporal Graham to examine that point. He

emerged from the reeds with a face that, at a distance, made Douglas, my

other man, say, "He has found water." He had found A RUNNING STREAM, to

which he had been guided by its own music, and taking a tin pot, he

brought me some of it. The water was clear and sparkling, tasting

strongly of sulphur, and Yuranigh said that this was the head of a river

that NEVER DRIED UP. In this land of picturesque beauty and pastoral

abundance, within eighty miles of the tropics, we had discovered the

first running stream seen on this journey. I returned, determined to

bring the party thus far, and with the intention of passing that night

where we had found water in a rock about six miles back, that we might

sooner reach the camp next day. At that spot we had also the benefit of a

cavern, before which, a good fire being made, we defied the frost of a

very cold night, the thermometer having been registered at the camp, at 3

A.M., as low as 7°. In the scrubs we had passed through in the morning, a

variety of the ACACIA PODALYRIIFOLIA, with grey velvety leaves, was

scarcely in flower; and I observed a beautiful new species of STENOCHILUS

with large tubular flowers.[*] The ACACIA FALCATA appeared also on the

sandstone ground above the gullies, and a broad-leaved form of the

EREMOPHILA MITCHELLII. The moon shone brightly, and the rock being full

of silver mica, the splendour of the scene imparted to my eye and mind

then a degree of gratification far beyond any associations of the richest

furniture of a palace. We found it impossible to get our horses to the

water; but we hit upon an expedient which answered even better than a

bucket,--my Mackintosh cloak.

[* S. CURVIPES (Benth. MS.) glaber, foliis lanceolatis integerrimis basi

in petiolum angustatis pedicellis recurvis, calycis foliolis latis

acuminatis, corollae glabrae ventricosae laciniis acutis inferiore ultra

medium solutâ.--Flowers large and thick on recurved pedicels 4 to 6 lines

long. Calycine leaves broader than in all the other species.]

3D JULY.--In returning, we looked for a good line of approach, and found

an easy way for the carts to descend into the valley. On arriving at the

camp, I learnt that a large pond had been discovered in a rocky part of

the river, about a mile below our camp. Thermometer, at sunrise, 14°; at

noon, 60; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 26°. Height of camp above the sea, 1800

feet. (XLII.)

4TH JULY.--The clouds had gathered, and it rained heavily this morning.

Nevertheless, the party moved off, crossing the river where the banks had

been cut to facilitate the passage. With Yuranigh's assistance we hit

upon an excellent line of route, availing ourselves of a grassy valley

descending from Mount Faraday, just so far as to avoid the rocky crooked

part, and then crossing and cutting through a piece of scrub directly to

the point of easy ascent, we thus made a good road into the valley, and

arrived in good time, notwithstanding the rain, at the rock of my

bivouac. The night-sky cleared up, and I found our latitude (by Arcturus)

to be 24° 54' 12" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 43°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,

38°. Height above the sea, 1437 feet. (XLIII.)

5TH JULY.--Another frosty night succeeded the day of rain, and froze our

tents into boards, not easily to be packed up this morning. We proceeded

along our horses' track, and the beautiful headland which appeared quite

isolated, and just such as painters place in middle distance, I named

Mount Salvator. We encamped on a slight elevation of the right bank of

the reedy rivulet, near the pyramids. Our prospects had suddenly

brightened, when instead of following chains of dry ponds, we had before

us a running stream, carrying life and nourishment towards the country we

were about to explore. The whole aspect of the country seemed new to us.

The barometer showed we were rapidly descending, and I expected that our

living stream would soon join that greater stream, the basin of which I

thought I could trace in the line of mist seen from Mount P. P. King on

the 28th June. The course of this river, unlike the others, curved round

from N.W. towards north, and having its origin in mountains equidistant

between Cape York and Wilson's Promontory, it was reasonable to suppose

that we had at length crossed the division between northern and southern

waters. That between eastern and western waters was still to be

discovered, and in a country so intricate, and where water was so scarce

then, the course of rivers afforded the readiest means of determining

where that division was. If the general course of this river was found to

be to the eastward of north, we might safely conclude that the dividing

ground was on the west or to the left of our route; if to the westward of

north, it might be to the eastward, or on the right of our route, and

this seemed the more probable from the line of a river flowing north-

westward, which I had seen the valley of, from Mount P. P. King. Latitude

24° 50' 2". S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P. M.,

49°; at 9, 38°. Height above the sea, according to sixteen observations,

1421 feet. (XLIV.)

6TH JULY.--A number of small bushes of CRYPTANDRA PROPINQUA appeared

amongst the rocks; back from the valley, and in the woods below, we found

an acacia, apparently, but distinct from, A. DECORA (Reichb.) VAR.

MACROPHYLLA; it approached A. AMOENA, but the stem was less angular, and

the phyllodia bore but one gland. A large tree with long hoary leaves,

and flat round capsules, proved to be a fine new BURSARIA, at a later

season found in flower. See October 10th.* A Loranthus also was found

here, which Sir William Hooker has since described.[**] Travelling along

the bank of this stream, we found it flowing, and full of sparkling water

to the margin. The reeds had disappeared, and we could only account for

the supply of such a current, in such a country, at such a season, by the

support of many springs. We made sure of water now for the rest of our

journey; and that we might say of the river "Labitur et labetur in omne

volubilis aevum." The hills overhanging it surpassed any I had ever seen

in picturesque outline. Some resembled gothic cathedrals in ruins; others

forts; other masses were perforated, and being mixed and contrasted with

the flowing outlines of evergreen woods, and having a fine stream in the

foreground, gave a charming appearance to the whole country. It was a

discovery worthy of the toils of a pilgrimage. Those beautiful recesses

of unpeopled earth, could no longer remain unknown. The better to mark

them out on my map, I gave to the valley the name of Salvator Rosa.[***]

The rocks stood out sharply, and sublimely, from the thick woods, just as

John Martin's fertile imagination would dash them out in his beautiful

sepia landscapes. I never saw anything in nature come so near these

creations of genius and imagination. Where we encamped, the river was

very deep, the banks steep and muddy, so that the use of a bucket was

necessary in watering the cattle. Notwithstanding every precaution, one

animal walked into the river, and could not be got out without great

difficulty. The only fish we caught in this river were two enormous eels,

beautifully spotted. Large shells of the UNIO genus lay abundantly on the

banks, about the old fires of the natives. These were larger than either

those found on the Darling, or those of the Maran; and although such

freshwater mussles seem to have but one shape, a peculiarity in these was

pointed out to me by Yuranigh, who said they much resembled the

impressions left by a black-fellow's foot, (which is much broader at the

toes than at the heel). We here met with a new species of BORONIA,

resembling B. ANETHIFOLIA, of which many varieties afterwards occurred.

It grows about two feet high, and had solitary pale purple flowers.[****]

A new species of ACACIA with straight, oblong, shining leaves, also grew

here.[*****] In the valley we found ERECHTITES ARGUTA, a weed resembling

European groundsel; on the rocks, a small slender shrub with white

flowers; and in the sandy scrub, the LEUCOPOGON CUSPIDATUS formed a small

shrub. Thermometer, at sunrise, 16°; at noon, 50°; at 4 P.M., 49°; at 9,

38°. (XLV.) Height above the sea, 1270 feet.

[* B. INCANA (Lindl. MS.); arborea, inermis, foliis oblongo-linearibus

supra glabris subtus incanis, paniculâ terminali tomentosâ, floribus

distantibus.]

[** L. SUBFALCATUS (Hook. MS.); ramis dichotomis patentibus, foliis

oppositis linearibus lineari-lanceolatisve obtusis subfalcatis glabris

trinerviis, floribus axillaribus binis arcte pendentibus brevissime

pedicellatis, calycis contracti cylindracei ore dilatato, petalis 6

linearibus glaberrimis supra medium coalitis.]

[*** "His soul naturally delighted in scenes of savage magnificence and

ruined grandeur; his spirit loved to stray in lonely glens, and gaze on

mouldering castles."--ALLAN CUNNINGHAM (THE POET).]

[**** B. BIPINNATA (Lindl. MS.) glabra vel pilosa, foliis bipinnatis

pinnatisque, foliolis linearibus subteretibus obtusis, floribus

subsolitariis axillaribus foliis brevioribus 8-andris.]

[***** A. EXCELSA (Benth. MS.) glabra, ramulis subangulatis, phyllodiis

falcato-oblongis obtusiusculis mucronulatisve basi angustatis

subcoriaceis nitidis multinervibus venulosis eglandulosis, pedunculis

solitariis geminisve capitulo dense multifloro brevioribus vel

brevissimis. Very near A. VENULOSA, Cunn.; but smooth, the phyllodia

shining, 2 to 3 inches long, 6-9 lines broad, the flower heads usually

almost sessile.]

7TH JULY.--Continuing along the eastern margin of the reeds, we soon

found that the river expanded into a lake covered with them, and that in

one or two spots there also grew the "Balyan" of the Lachlan, (a bulrush

mentioned in my former journals). We listened, and still heard the

current of water amongst these reeds. From the margin of this lake the

hills, rocks, and woods, on the opposite shore, presented a most charming

morceau of picturesque scenery. Our route was through an open forest

which skirted the reedy margin, over very firm ground, and in a general

direction about north-west. At length we approached the northern limits

of the reedy lake, no river being visible flowing out of it, as we had

reason to expect. We found there, however, only a dry channel, which bore

the marks of a considerable stream at some seasons. Following this dry

channel down, I found its course turned to the northward, and even to the

north-east. When we were disposed to encamp, I could find no water in the

bed, nor were we better off when we had encamped, until Corporal Graham

dug between two rocks therein, and, fortunately, found a spring. Thus, in

one day vanished the pleasing prospect we had enjoyed in the morning, of

a stream flowing in the direction of our intended route. This might be, I

then thought, the tributary to a larger river, which I still hoped would

be found to flow westward from the coast ranges, and, finally, take the

desired north-west direction. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at 4 P.M.,

58°; at 9, 25°. (XLVI.) Height above the sea, 1191 feet.

8TH JULY.--Entertaining this opinion, I still should have followed this

river down, had I not been impeded by gullies as deep as itself falling

into it, and which obliged me to cross to the left bank. There a thick

brigalow scrub grew to the very margin, and this was seared by rugged

gullies. A deep and continuous channel, entering from the westward,

induced me to turn in that direction so far, that I at length determined

to penetrate at once, if possible, to the north-west, expecting that

there I might intercept our river, if it should turn in that direction,

or, if not, cross some range into a more open country. The whole day was

lost, however, in toiling through a brigalow scrub. Various water-courses

crossed our route, but all descending towards the river we had left. The

scrub was so thick that we could only pass where accidental openings

admitted us, and by this sort of progress, until within an hour of

sunset, I found we had travelled about nine miles, and had gained only

half a minute of latitude. Having penetrated, on foot, and with

difficulty, about two miles ahead of the party, in pursuing the course of

a small watercourse, I found that even this turned south-east, evidently

to fall into the reedy basin we had previously explored; therefore, I

determined on an immediate retreat out of that labyrinth of scrub, back

to our friendly river. It was comparatively easy to return through the

opening we had made by cutting down much of the brush as we advanced, so

that by twilight we reached a good grassy spot about half way to the

river, and near it, found some good ponds of water. A pigeon, flying

almost in my face, first drew my attention to the hollow where we

afterwards found the water. It was in soft mud, however, in which one of

the bullocks got bogged, and could only be taken out by the whole

strength of the party dragging him with ropes. Thermometer, at sunrise,

18°; at 4 P.M., 54°; at 9, 25°. Height above the sea, 1241 feet.

9TH JULY.--The cattle were so much exhausted by drawing through the

scrub, and I had so much to do at my map, that I gave to the cattle and

the party, a day's rest. Latitude, 24° 34' 12" S. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 14°; (in my tent, 18°;) at 9 P.M., 48°.

10TH JULY.--Returning, still along our old track, towards a slight

eminence, three miles from our camp, I there set the party to work, to

cut a way across the gully, which had first obliged me to turn westward.

While the men were so employed, I rode about five miles northward, but

met with no opening or water-course admitting of a passage in that

direction. On the contrary, I returned, on intercepting one running S. E.

towards our river. The party had taken all things across when I rejoined

them, and we travelled along the left bank of the gully, chiefly through

open forest land, until we approached the river. Scrub, and muddy

gullies, obliged us to cross the river soon after we reached its banks.

Water appeared more abundant in its bed here, and we encamped on the

border of a small plain, hemmed in by brigalow scrub, in latitude 24° 33'

25" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 58°; at 4 P.M., 62°; at 9,

29°. Height (XLVII.) above the sea, 1192 feet.

11TH JULY.--We travelled along the right bank of the river, through a

fine open forest, until our route, in a N. E. by N. direction, was again

impeded by the river. We had now descended from the upper sources of this

river, at least 1000 feet according to the barometer. We had seen, in a

large pond, a fish called mullet, which abounds in the rivers falling to

the eastern coast, but which I had never seen in those falling westward.

It was also obvious that there was no coast range between us and the

coast, and consequently that a very decided break, at least, occurred in

it, about the latitude of 25° S. This was more apparent to me on crossing

the river, and sending Yuranigh up a tree, about three miles beyond. He

could see no mountains to the northward or north-east, but only the high

table land already seen to the eastward, in which direction he could

trace the course of the river. I hastened back to the party, directed

them to encamp, and proceeded with two men and Yuranigh in a N. W.

direction, carrying provisions for a long ride. We plunged into the sea

of Brigalow--

"----And we did buffet it, With lusty sinews throwing it aside, And

stemming it with JACKETS ALL IN TATTERS."

After working out our way thus, for about ten miles, our toils were

rewarded with a scene of surpassing beauty, that gradually opened to us.

That long-lost tree, the graceful Acacia pendula, received us in the

foreground, and open plains, blended with waving lines of wood, extended

far into bluey distance, beyond which an azure coronet of mountains of

romantic forms, terminated the charming landscape.

"Far in the west, the long, long vale withdrawn,"

included columns of smoke, marking out the line of a river, which, with

its dark and luxuriant woods, pervaded the whole scene; perhaps the

finest I ever had the good fortune to discover. I beheld it from a

perfectly clear and grassy hill of rich black soil, on which we had

emerged, through a fringe of Acacia pendula. I could not advance beyond

that spot, until I had taken bearings and angles on the peaks and summits

before me. To the north-west, an apparent opening, seen between these

masses, seemed to indicate the bed of another river. On completing my

observations we rode forward across the plain, towards the woody vale,

the sun being then near setting. A solitary emu ran towards us, from a

great distance, apparently encouraged by the mere appearance of

quadrupeds, which, although new to it, seemed to have no terrors for it.

I could not allow the men to fire at it, partly, I believe, from a sense

of shame that we should thereby appear to take unfair advantage, and

prove ourselves more brutal than the quadrupeds, whom nature had

indulgently destined to carry us on their backs. The open down we

traversed, consisted of rich black mould, in which there was fossil wood

in great abundance, presenting silicified fragments so curiously wooden

as to be only distinguishable from wood, by their detached and broken

character. Such fossils are not uncommon in Australia, on plains of rich

black earth, which is a constant concomitant. Their geological history

may be simple, and would probably be very interesting, if philosophy

could but find it out. We found, further on, a channel full of water,

with reeds about the bed of it. There had been a current in it a short

time previously, and, indeed, we had seen the remains of recent rain, in

some hollows in the Brigalow scrub. The river came from the westward, and

thus might have afforded the means of travelling in that direction, had

other directions been found impracticable. We made our fire in a hollow

near the water, not wishing either to alarm or attract the natives; and

thus we passed the night pleasantly enough, with a large fire before us.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 18°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 30°.

12TH JULY.--Returning to the camp, I sought and found, with the

assistance of Yuranigh, a more open way through the scrub for our carts,

than that by which we had penetrated to the good country. I had directed

Mr. Stephenson to examine, during my absence, the western shore of the

reedy lake of Salvator, in order to ascertain whether it had any outlet

in that direction; but he returned without having reached the base of the

remarkable rocky range to the westward; thus leaving it still uncertain,

although the direction of the river since discovered, left little reason

for supposing that any waters from the valley of the Salvator, could

escape to the westward. Thermometer, at sunrise, 11°; in my tent, 15°; at

noon, 67° at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 35°. Height above the sea, 1107 feet.

13TH JULY.--After marking this camp XLVIII., we quitted the river

Salvator, and travelled along our track of yesterday, or nearly N. W.,

but deviating from this track occasionally, where broken ground or thick

scrub was to be avoided. The highest part of the scrubby land we crossed,

was 1310 feet above the sea. We arrived in good time at the river, where

I had previously slept, and there encamped. On the plains adjacent, the

ACACIA PENDULA grew, as on those near the Bogan; and we saw also various

new and curious grasses, and some very singular shrubs in the scrub. The

banks of the river were steep, and consisted of soft clay. I employed the

party to make a bridge across it, and this was well completed before

sunset. Thermometer, at sunrise, 23°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M. 68°; at 9,

40°. Height above the sea, 951 feet. (XLIX.)

14TH JULY.--Crossing the river, (which I called the Claude), we

travelled, first, through an open forest, and then across one of the

richest plains I had ever seen, and on which the ANTHISTIRIA AUSTRALIS,

and PANICUM LOEVINODE, the two best Australian grasses, grew most

abundantly. The soil was black; the surface quite level. There might have

been about a thousand acres in the first plain we crossed, ere we arrived

at another small river, or water-course, which also contained water. We

soon reached the borders of other very extensive plains and open downs,

apparently extending far to the eastward. On our left, there was a scrub

of Acacia pendula. The undulating parts of the clear land, were not so

thickly covered with grass as the plains, not because the soil was bad,

but because it was so loose, rich, and black, that a sward did not so

easily take root and spread upon it, from its great tendency to crack,

after imbibing moisture, on its subsequent evaporation. All this rich

land was thickly strewed with small fragments of fossil wood, in silex,

agate, and chalcedony. Many of the stones, as already observed, most

strikingly resembled decayed wood, and in one place the remains of an

entire trunk lay together like a heap of ruins, the DILAPIDATED remains

of a tree! I obtained even a portion of petrified bark; but specimens of

this were rare. The elevation of the highest part of these downs, was

1512 feet above the sea.

Crossing an open forest hill, which had hitherto bounded our view to the

westward, I perceived a deep grassy valley on our right, sloping towards

a much lower country, but I still travelled westward, in hopes to find an

open country, beyond a low woody range on which we had at length arrived.

I soon, however, perceived rocky gullies before me, and having halted the

party to examine them, I found they were quite impassable. Such an

unexpected obstacle, on the horizon of the fine open country, yet UNDER

that smooth horizon, was certainly as singular as it was unexpected, and

I returned to descend into the deep grassy valley I had seen on our

right, which seemed open and inviting. We therein also found some large

ponds of water, and encamped. While the men were pitching the tents I

rode down the valley about two miles, and found that the direction of the

water-course was about north-east. Such a direction was not very

favourable for us, and I resolved to look at the country beyond the

limits of this valley to the westward, before we followed it further.

Latitude, 24° 17' 42" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 19°; at 4 P. M., 66°;

at 9, 49°. (L.) 1279 feet above the sea.

15TH JULY.--Following up a flat which came from the N. W., I proceeded

about five miles amid overhanging precipices, until, at length, mighty

rocks rendered it quite impossible to push my horse further. Leaving him

in a hollow, I ascended a rocky point, which was barely accessible with

Yuranigh's assistance, and, on reaching an elevated summit, I saw still

worse gullies before us, amongst which I could perceive no feature

affording any cue to their final outlet, nor any characteristic of the

structure of these labyrinths. I looked in vain for the rugged summits I

had seen peeping over the plains when first discovered, and could not

then be convinced (as I found long afterwards, on completing my map),

that they were then under my feet. The highest parts seemed to extend

south-westward. To cross such a region with our carts, was quite

impossible, and I could only return, and, however reluctantly, follow

down the valley in which we had encamped, until it should afford access

to a more open country. The banks of the watercourse were steep, the

bottom was sandy. The course was very tortuous, alternately closing on

rocky precipices, at each side of the valley. Thus we were obliged to

cross at every turning, and the steep banks rendered each crossing a

difficult operation, occasioning so much delay, that after crossing ten

times, evening obliged us to encamp, although our direct distance from

the last camp did not exceed five miles. We had, at each crossing, cut

the banks, filled up hollows with logs, etc. The general direction, I

ascertained to be N.E. Water was found providentially near the spot,

where the approach of night had obliged us to encamp; this having been

the first water we had seen during that day's laborious journey.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; at 4 P.M., 65°; at 9, 44°.

16TH JULY.--After some examination of the valley before us, I considered

it best, upon the whole, to travel in the bed of the river itself, and

thus avoid the frequent necessity for crossing with so much labour and

delay: the sandy bed was heavy for the wheels, and therefore distressing

to the animals, and one or two rocky masses obliged us to work out of it,

to get round them. The whole day was consumed in proceeding thus about 5½

miles, and in an easterly direction. The closing in of the valley lower

down, seemed to shut us from further progress even so, and I encamped,

rather at a loss how to proceed. Just then Mr. Stephenson came to inform

me that he had seen, from a rocky point on the left, an opening to the

north-west, and level ground beyond it. I therefore determined to

accompany him next day, and to reconnoitre the country in that direction.

By digging in the bed of the creek, water was again obtained by Corporal

Graham. Some extremely fragrant shrubs were discovered in these rocky

recesses, especially one, which filled the air with perfume to a great

distance around. It seemed to be a EUCALYPTUS without flowers or fruit,

but with a powerful odour of balm, and formed a bush five feet high,

growing on sandstone rocks, having a narrow leaf, and rather thorny

stalk. The lower leaves were also rough.[*] There was another bush, with

leaves of the same shape, and glossy, but having a perfume equally strong

of the lime.[**] We regretted much, that neither the seed, flower, nor

fruit of these interesting shrubs could be obtained at that season. In

that valley, we saw also the DAUCUS BRACHIATUS, an inconspicuous weed,

and MYOPORUM CUNNINGHAMII. The soft leaved ACACIA PODALYRIOEFOLIA began

to indicate its flowering season, and we found a magnificent new crimson

CALLISTEMON with its young flowers and leaves wrapped in wool.[***] A new

DODONOEA with wingless, 3-cornered, 3-celled fruit[****]; a new species

of AOTUS, with narrow hoary leaves[*****], and one of the forest trees

was a splendid new GEIGERA, with broad lance-shaped leaves.[******] The

PLATYZOMA MICROPHYLLUM, a very singular and little known fern, with

narrow leaves and small orbicular leaflets, was also there, with the

ACACIA FALCATA, ACACIA EXCELSA, and a shaggy-leaved variety of the AJUGA

AUSTRALIS, the Australian bugle. The BRUNONIA SERICEA, with its scabious-

like heads of flowers, was common; and the blue flowered HARDENBERGIA

MONOPHYLLA was observed among the grass. Thermometer, at sunrise, 25°; at

9 P.M., 41°.

[* E. MELISSIODORA (Lindl. MS.); ramis ferrugineo-tomentosis scabris,

foliis utrinque papillis rubiginosis scabris ovato-oblongis obtusis supra

basim peltatis (floribus fructibusque ignotis).]

[** E. CITRIODORA (Hook. MS.); ramis angulatis fuscis minute

tuberculatis, foliis lato-lanceolatis petiolatis pinnulatis patenti-

parallelo-venosis viridibus (non glaucis). Sir Wm. Hooker has ventured to

name this EUCALYPTUS, though without flower or fruit, from the

deliciously fragrant lemon-like odour, which exists in the dry as well as

the recent state of the plant.]

[*** C. NERVOSUM (Lindl. MS.); ramis pallidis, foliis ovato-lanceolatis

quinque-nerviis mucronatis junioribus tomentosis, rachi calycibusque

lanatis.]

[**** D. TRIGONA (Lindl. MS.); ramulis subpilosis, foliis obovato-

lanceolatis parum pilosis integerrimis vel utrinque unidentatis, capsulis

3-locularibus trigonis apteris.]

[***** A. MOLLIS (Benth. MS.); undique molliter tomentoso-villosus, ramis

crectis-rigidis, foliis sparsis anguste oblongis margine revolutis,

calycis vix bilabiati dentibus subaequalibus, ovario breviter stipitato

villosissimo.--Near A. PASSERINOÏDES Meisn., but differing in the narrow

and longer leaves, the calyx and ovary.]

[****** G. LATIFOLIA (Lindl. MS.); foliis ovato-lanceolatis longe

petiolatis subtus obscure pubescentibus junioribus convolutis.--This

appears to differ from G. SALICIFOLIA in its long-stalked leaves.]

17TH JULY.--Our ride this morning soon led amongst different scenes. By

merely turning to the left we came upon a flat, in which another water-

course, similar to that we had been tracing (Balmy Creek), came from the

west, apparently out of that inaccessible country, across which I had

previously looked in vain for a passage. Several other gullies joined

this water-course, and seared the flat, which consisted of a deep clay

deposit, in almost every direction. After crossing these, we found a fine

broad opening between rocky precipices of most picturesque forms. This

gap I called Stephenson's Pass; it led into a spacious glen surrounded on

all sides but the N.W. by mountains such as I have described, recalling

to my memory the most imaginative efforts of Mr. Martin's saepia drawing,

and showing how far the painter's fancy may anticipate nature. But, at

the gorge of this valley, there stood a sort of watch-tower, as if to

guard the entrance, so like a work of art, that even here, where men and

kangaroos were equally wild and artless, I was obliged to look very

attentively, to be quite convinced that the tower was the work of nature

only. A turret with a pointed roof, of a colour corresponding, first

appeared through the trees, as if it had been built on the summit of a

round hill. On a nearer approach the fine tints of the yellowish grey

rocks, and the small pines climbing the sides of a hill abruptly rising

out of a forest of common trees, presented still a very remarkable

object. I named the valley "Glen Turret," and this feature "Tower

Almond," after an ancient castle, the scene of many early associations,

and now quite as uninhabited as this. Passing through Glen Turret, we

ascended the nearest summit on the right, and from it beheld a prospect

most cheering, after our toils amid rocky ravines. On the westward, the

rocky range seemed to terminate abruptly towards the north, in an

elevated point, which seemed to command an extensive view over the

unknown W. and N.W. Out of that region two isolated mountain masses arose

from an open country, and were clothed with open forests to their

summits. Further eastward, masses of mountain in the extreme distance

appeared covered, also, with open forests, and presented finely rounded

outlines, not likely to impede our passage, in any direction. But towards

the N.W. our view was not so extensive; like the uncertain future, it

still lay hid. The retrospect was very extensive, including Mount Faraday

in the extreme distance, and which thus afforded me a valuable back angle

for the correction of our longitude from any errors of detailed survey.

The lofty mass of Buckland's Table Land still overlooked all from the E.,

and I could here again intersect its three principal points. The view

back to the Pass was very fine, for the rocks and wood were so blended on

the bold summits, as to present sublime studies for the artist. Far to

the westward, an interior line of cliffy range resembled a sea beach,

presenting a crescent, concave on that side, apparently the limit to the

basin of the Nogoa, and the dividing range between eastern and western

waters. Our Pass seemed to be the only outlet through the labyrinths

behind us. Even the open plains beyond them were visible in a yellow

streak above the precipices. Far beyond these plains, Mount Faraday was

distinctly visible, on the horizon of the landscape. Thermometer, at

sunrise, 29°; at 9 P.M., 43°. (LI.) 1234 feet above the sea.

18TH JULY.--By retracing our horses' footsteps, the carts were soon

brought to the base of the same hill; deep gullies in the clay having

obliged us to pass close under it, and, indeed, to cross two of its

elevated extremities. We found the country beyond, in a N.W. direction,

tolerably open, and we encamped in a valley containing abundance of

grass, and near to our camp, water was found in a chain of ponds

descending to the eastward. A new SUAEDA, with short leaves, and the

habit of a dwarf Tamarisk, was found this day.[*] Latitude, 24° 6' 47" S.

Thermometer, at sunrise, 31°; at noon, 65°; at 4 P.M., 69°; at 9, 44°.

(LII.)

[* S. TAMARISCINA (Lindl. MS.); fruticosa, ramosissima, foliis brevibus

cylindraceis imbricatis obtusissimis, axillis lanatis, floribus

solitariis sessilibus.]

19TH JULY.--With the intention to lose no opportunity of getting further

to the westward, I travelled on towards the base of the most northern

summit of the range in the west; but I was, at length, so shut up by

gullies and scrubby extremities near its base and all radiating from it,

and becoming very deep, that I took the party aside into a grassy ravine

near, where I directed the men to encamp, and hastened myself to the

summit. From it, the view westward was not so extensive as I expected.

Something like precipitous slopes to some channel or water-course,

apparently falling either S. W. or N. E., formed the most promising

feature; but, although my object was to have travelled in that direction,

the scrub seemed too thick to admit of a passage. Open forest land

appeared to the N. E., and there, the gently undulating features,

although much lower than the range on whose northern extremity I then

stood, seemed nevertheless to form a connection between it and some

higher ranges of open forest land, that appeared between me and the

coast. Through one wide opening in these, about east, I saw some broken

hills, at a very great distance, say seventy or eighty miles. The ridgy-

connected undulations formed the heads of some valleys sloping to the

south-east, whereof the waters would evidently join those of the Balmy

Creek, while others, rising on the north-west side, seemed to belong to a

separate basin, and to form a river falling to the north-west. This river

was indicated only by slopes meeting and interlacing in a valley. To the

left or westward of that supposed river channel, a mighty isolated

mountain mass shut out any view of the further course of the water of the

valley formed between it and these slopes; but, as the very lowest point

of the whole horizon, as indicated by the spirit-level of the theodolite,

lay in that direction, I determined to pursue that bearing, (10° W. of

N.) through the open forest country that intervened. I found that the

mountain commanding this view, was elevated 2247 feet above the sea,

according to the Syphon barometer, and in using this instrument, I could

not forget Colonel Mudge, who had kindly taught me its use; I therefore

named that summit Mount Mudge. In the gravel at the base of the hill,

were water-worn pebbles of trap and basalt. The rock of which the range

itself consisted, seemed to be a calcareous grit, with vegetable

impressions, apparently of GLOSSOPTERIS BROWNII. On descending to the

camp, I was informed that the cattle-watering party came suddenly upon

two natives, one of whom was a placid old man, the other middle-aged.

Corporal Graham did all he could to allay their fears, and convince them

that they were in no danger from such strangers. The elder at length

handed his little bundle to the younger and sat down, on seeing the

Corporal's green bough; meanwhile the other walked on. When Graham took

the old man's hand, and shook it, also patting him on the back, and

expressing a friendly disposition only, the poor helpless man of the

woods burst into tears, finding himself incapable of either words or

deeds suitable for a meeting so uncommon. They could not relieve him from

this state of alarm, so readily as by leaving him sitting, and moving on,

which they did. In the scrubs near this camp, Mr. Stephenson discovered a

very remarkable tree, apparently a casuarina, having long drooping

leaves, hanging like long hair from its upper boughs[*]; and in the stony

gullies a DODONAEA allied to D. SALSOLIFOLIA A. CUNN., from Van Diemen's

Land, but the leaves slenderer, and three or four times longer[**].

Although we were approaching the tropics, the weather was most cool and

pleasant. A delicious breeze played amongst the woods, and welcomed us to

the Torrid Zone. Until now, during every clear night the air had been

frosty. Latitude, 24° 6' 50" S. Thermometer, at sunrise, 34°; at noon,

68°; at 4 P.M., 61°; at 9, 47°.

[* See page 285.]

[* D. FILIFOLIA (Hook. MS.); foliis sparsis ramis binis ternisve

lineariangustissimis elongatis subrugosis viscosis glabris utrinque

canaliculatis falcatis, fructibus trialatis.]