At the close of his Berlin engagement, Paul determined to make a voyage
down the Rhine. With that intention he started for Basle, Switzerland.
Several correspondents of French, German and English papers desired to
accompany him on his trip. As the river is very rough and swift between
Basle and Strassburg, they decided to join him at Strassburg when he
arrived there. In October, 1875, he started on his first long
river voyage, four hundred miles, to Cologne.
At five o'clock in the morning he stepped into the rapid Rhine, with
nothing but his bugle and paddle. His first run was to Strassburg,
seventy miles below. News did not travel along the upper Rhine fast in
those days and the peasantry did not know of his trip. His
unexpected and strange appearance caused no little fright among the
people along the banks. At one point he came on three workmen, engaged
in mending an embankment. While approaching them on the swift current,
he raised himself up in the water and blew a blast on his horn. The
workmen looked around and seeing a strange figure standing in the water
blowing a trumpet, perhaps thought it was old Father Rhine. They did
not wait to investigate; but disappeared up the bank in a hurry. About
noon Paul arrived at Breisgann, where he got some refreshments. The
course of the river now ran along the Black Forest, and is much
narrower there. The scenery is weird and somber and although the region
is interesting, it is somewhat monotonous. People of the Black Forest
are a dreamy and superstitious race; they would stand and look at the
uncouth figure in the water for a moment and then run. One old man
who was gathering driftwood was so surprised and frightened that he
sprang from his boat and ran up the bank without waiting to secure it.
At nightfall Paul was still driving along. He heard a peasant whistling
and singing on the bank, he hailed him and inquired in German, how far
Strassburg was below. "Eine stunde," (one hour,) was the reply.
He afterwards found out that it was the custom in that part of the
country to give distance by time. In half an hour afterwards the lights
of the bridge at Kohl showed up. There were two bridges there, one for
the railroad and one a low pontoon bridge. While watching the high
railroad bridge, as he was rapidly approaching on the current, he struck
on one of the pontoons and was whirled under. On coming to the
surface, he hauled for the shore and landed. It was then eight o'clock
and no one was visible. Knocking on a door a woman opened it. She saw
the dark figure all glistening with water and sent forth a series of
yells that caused the entire neighborhood to turn out. A German
policeman approached, took Paul in charge and conducted him to a hotel
near by. He said:
"I recognized you, Captain, and your friends are all in Strassburg and
do not expect you till to-morrow. The city is about three miles from the
river. I will send immediately for a carriage."
When it arrived, he found that it contained three of his friends, who
had been apprized of his landing. They drove to a hotel in Strassburg.
The next day was spent in hunting for and purchasing a flat bottom boat
for the reporters. The Berlin press was represented by Count Von
Sierasowsie, an invalid officer with both legs cut off. He had to be
carried around in a perambulator. He had a private soldier, which
the German government allowed him, as a servant. The balance of the
reporters were from France and England. A boat about forty feet long and
eight feet wide was purchased and two men, who professed to know
something about the channel of the Rhine, engaged to navigate it. It
was nothing more than an open craft; no roof, so the correspondents put
in straw and chairs to make themselves comfortable. A place was reserved
in the bow for the Count's perambulator. The following day all the
baggage was placed aboard. Paul had three trunks which had been
forwarded from Berlin. Dr. Willis, the English correspondent, observed
that Paul passed a strong line through the handles of his trunks and
secured each firmly one to the other. Then he tied a buoy to the end of
the line. The doctor inquired why he did so.
"Oh," answered Paul, "I always like to be prepared. In case this boat
sinks I can easily find my baggage by means of this buoy which will
float on the surface."
This remark had not a very encouraging effect on the doctor. That
afternoon the voyage was resumed and they ran all night on a swift
current. Great danger and difficulty were experienced from the floating
mills. They kept the crew busy guiding the unwieldy boat out of
danger. The reporters did not rest much. The only one on board who
slumbered with pleasure was Simnick, the Count's servant, who seemed to
take to sleep as naturally as a duck to water. Paul kept well ahead of
the boat and warned them of dangers.
Next day came out clear and warm. As the approached Worms, they were met
by gaily decorated steamers and large parties of ladies and gentlemen
in small crafts. The burgomaster in an official boat was rowed off to
Paul's side. His boat contained a liberal supply of the famous Lieb
frauenmilch. He presented Paul with a magnificently chased goblet
saying:
"Captain, you must accept the hospitality of Worms even if you do not
stop," and filling the glass to the brim, also his own and the
officials' who accompanied him and gave a "Lebenhoch."
The fairest and most interesting part of the Rhine was now reached, that
which teems with historic and legendary associations; the part too,
that possesses a population second to none in the Fatherland for
generosity and hospitality. The whole voyage was now a continuous
fete. At almost every place they passed the Burgomaster with his
friends came out and invited them to drink a cup of wine for which every
part of the Rhine is famous. All day they continued down the blue and
rapid water and at three o'clock the next morning landed at Mayence,
where they woke the sleepy inhabitants with rockets and bugles. The run
from Strassburg lasted thirty-six hours; they were glad to get warm
comfortable beds in the hotel where they rested till Monday. Before
leaving Mayence, telegrams poured in from every point on the river
below. One was signed Elizabeth, Princess of Schaumburg-Lippe,
congratulating Paul and inviting him to stop at Wiesbaden.
The party left Mayence on Monday and continued dropping down the river.
From this place on, the banks presented a very thronged and lively
appearance. Perhaps no other river in the world could be found to equal
that from Mayence to Cologne in the variety of its life and the
multiplicity of its associations. Reception after reception was tendered
the voyager and his party and every place seemed to vie with the
others in the warmth and good will of its welcome. At Geisenheim, the
committee who met Paul on the river, insisted that he must come ashore
as a reception was prepared for him. They landed and found a number of
Americans, including Consul General Webster. About twenty lovely
girls dressed in white and carrying baskets of flowers met the party at
the bank. They all implored Paul to come up with them and see
their picturesque town and insisted that he must join in the parade.
Paul was anxious to continue his way down the river; but the bright eyes
and the sweet, soft tones of the beautiful daughters of the Rhine made
him an easy victim, so a procession was formed, the young ladies
leading and Paul and his party were marched to the hotel, where an
informal reception was held. When they left Geisenheim, the press boat
was literary loaded down with hampers of delicious wine.
That same evening they reached Bingen. Here the Captain was warned to
beware of Bingen Loch and the Lurlei. He took but little stock in the
stories about their dangers and secretly determined to dash right into
the legendary whirlpool. That whirlpool which has been the theme of
Heine's song, has also been the dread of Rhine boatmen from time
immemorial. Legend says it is presided over by a fairy maid who lures
hapless fishermen to the spot by her syren voice and rejoices in their
destruction. The beauty of this part of the Rhine is indescribable.
Mountains tower directly up from the water's edge, here and there dotted
with historic castles. Time after time was Paul's bugle salute answered
on the ramparts far above and many a fair hand waved a handkerchief.
When they approached the Lurlei, the boatmen used superhuman efforts to
get away from the dreaded whirlpool and hugged the opposite shore.
Their cries of:
"This way Captain, the Lurlei," were unheeded by Paul who kept directly
for the jutting rock which causes the eddy known as the whirlpool.
"Where are you going?" thundered out one of the members of the press,
"Come to this side of the river!"
"Oh, I'm going to visit the mermaid," responded Paul and a few minutes
afterward he was in her embrace; or rather in the embrace of the noted
Lurlei. Instead of swallowing him up, as had been anticipated, it only
whirled him around a few times; he soon succeeded in getting away with a
few strokes of his paddle and rapidly overhauled the terror-stricken
occupants of the press boat. He dashed alongside and with a
dexterous twist of his paddle, sent a shower of water over the astounded
and horror-stricken Simnick, who was sure that the voyager must be crazy
to take such risks.
"Why," said Paul, "there are a thousand more dangerous eddies in the
Mississippi that have never been heard of," and he laughed heartily at
the danger he had passed.
At Coblentz the Strassburg boatmen refused to go any farther so they
were sent home. The guiding of the press boat was now left to the
tender mercies of Simnick. Some of the press men occasionally
volunteered to help him. His erratic steering brought him showers
of abuse, the occupants of the boat became so nervous that they
earnestly desired Paul to remain as near them as possible. Paul knowing
that his baggage was aboard, did not require a second invitation. Once
Simnick landed the party on a bar, before they got the boat afloat
again, all excepting Simnick's master, the Count, were compelled to
take off their shoes and shove her off.
Shooting pontoon bridges was the greatest danger. On approaching one,
all were aroused and the press men's-hearts were kept pretty close to
their mouths. The Count, seated forward in his little carriage, was
almost knocked over board, while the boat grazed some spar or bridge.
On each of these occasions, the imprecations of the Count, both loud and
deep, fell harmlessly around the stolid Simnick. The Count adopted new
tactics when approaching a place where bad steering would be likely to
cause serious trouble. He would, by the aid of his hands, get down from
his carriage and seat himself in the bottom of the boat with the
expression of his face, saying:
"Well, if I have to die, I will not have my brains knocked out."
The fifth day after leaving Strassburg, the party reached Cologne, where
they were received by the booming of cannons and ringing of bells. The
greatest excitement prevailed in the quiet old town and Paul was the
recipient of many honors and presents. Several poems were dedicated
to him, good, bad and indifferent. One very persistent poet, whose
knowledge of English was rather limited, bored him considerably. He
got so inflated over Paul's feigned praise, who had tried this ruse to
get rid of him, that he had his poem put in a German paper and
printed in English at his own expense. It was as follows:
Hall my boy! coming to us with a ton full of reason, Bringing that, what
now is most of season: The best of these we did meet since years In a
period of apprehensions and fears.
You are, no doubt of those good hearted fellows, Who like to lead the
men through friendly meadows; God bless always your noble, humane aim,
And give to it the success you do claim.
The people by his loud acclamation, May prove to you that it feels no
temptation To cut the throats, to break the necks around And make a
grave of all European ground.
It is a sort of cry that's rising, To prove that there are men enough
despising Armstrong and Krupp etcetera With Dyrose, Snyder, Mauser, yea.
Are you returned to Uncle Sam's cottage, Then make aware your countrymen
of every age: Your finding the German people sorry for human life, But
not for scorn and war and strife.
And now, farewell, my boy, with your ton of reason, May God you bless at
every season.
The trip on the Rhine concluded, Paul in company with Doctor Willis
visited several cities in Germany, Holland and Belgium, where he
gave exhibitions till the ice stopped his work. He then crossed to
England and took a steamer to New York on a flying trip home, where he
arrived December 28th, 1878. He had been gone about sixteen months.