AN ABYSSINIAN IMPROVISATORE AND HIS LITTLE SLAVE—PREPARE FOR A
MARCH TO MASSAWA—A STRANGE BASÉ BREAKFAST—PATIENTS—ARRIVE AT
TOODLOAK—BENI-AMIRS ENCAMPED ON THE GASH—LIONS AND LEOPARDS
ARE SHOT—OUR MONKEYS IN CAMP—BABOON MODE OF ATTACKING
LEOPARDS—CRAFTY BABOONS—LIONS ABOUND—HYÆNA METHOD OF ATTACKING
A LION—HYÆNA INTERVIEWS MR. COLVIN—ARRIVAL AT AMADEB—DEPARTURE
FROM AMADEB—BAREAS ATTEMPT AN ATTACK ON THE CARAVAN—BENI-AMIRS
WATERING THEIR FLOCKS AND HERDS—WE MEET WITH A YOUNG
ELEPHANT—LEOPARD AND HYÆNA SHOT AT KHOR-BARAKER.
March 27th.—A great part of the morning was occupied with sorting out the
heads of antelopes, buffalos, &c. I was particularly engaged in attending
to about 50 patients in the morning, and perhaps 20 or so in the evening.
Many of them had come from long distances to see the “Hakeem.”
In the afternoon a little Abyssinian boy, about 12 years of age (an
improvisatore), made his appearance, accompanied by his slave (a small
black boy), perhaps seven or eight years of age, carrying a rude native
instrument with three or four strings on it, something like a banjo. He
favoured us with a song, in which the word “Ingelese, Ingelese” occurred
very frequently. The interpretation of the whole song I do not know, but
it referred principally to the prowess of the English in the Abyssinian
war. On being asked if he would sell this instrument, he replied—
“No, I cannot do that; it is my father and my mother.”
The young rascal had saved up all his money and bought the little black
boy as his slave. He was delighted on seeing a scrap-book and a small
musical box. These Mr. James presented him with, also a dollar, which the
youngster handed over to his slave with quite the air of a superior.
March 28th.—To-morrow we hope to be on the march once more. To-day we
are much engaged in securing fresh camels and camel-men for the march to
Massawa. I was employed for fully two hours in the morning, and again in
the evening, in relieving the several necessities and tribulations of my
Arab friends.
March 29th.—Physic again greedily sought for by Hamrans, Beni-Amirs,
Shukeriyahs, and Hadendowahs. I was engaged in dispensing from breakfast
time until near luncheon time, and again all the evening until dark. If
we do not move away from Heikota the medicine chest will soon be empty,
for these people seem to positively enjoy mixtures and pills. In the
evening, after dinner, all our late camel-men and horse-boys were paid
off, each one receiving five dollars backsheesh, and a good knife and
a razor, which are much prized. I have already spoken of the wonderful
digestive powers of the Basé people, but they exceeded my wildest
expectations, for on the 26th a circumstance occurred whilst we were on
the march that convinced me they could digest anything from a boot to a
pair of trousers, even with a man inside of them. Had anyone recounted
the anecdote to me I daresay I might have been somewhat incredulous, and
I cannot blame anyone, who does not know me, for being the same. However,
they can please themselves as to whether they believe what I am going to
state or not. I can vouch for the fact as I saw it myself.
In front of my camel, whilst on the march, were two Basé. One of them
found that a portion of his sandal (made of buffalo hide) had worn away
and came off; he was a careful Basé and wasted nothing. Feeling rather
hungry, the owner of the sandal pounded the bit of seceding sandal
between two pieces of stone, and having done so began to masticate it.
The other Basé man, who had secured a bit of the toothsome morsel,
evidently thought this a superfluous proceeding on the part of his
comrade, so incontinently proceeded to masticate it without this
preliminary precaution. Their teeth certainly are good, even beautiful,
and would be envied by any drawing-room belle, and I am sure their
digestive powers would also be envied by any individual living—no need of
Richardson’s Peptacolos here. I would recommend the party who wrote about
“The Stomach and Its Trials” to peruse the above instructive anecdote.
March 30th.—This morning, after breakfast, my tent was surrounded again
with the patients, who had arrived from all parts, far and near, on
camels, on donkeys, and on foot. Amongst them was one old man who, after
the approved native fashion, squatted on his haunches, holding out a
little squeaking chicken, about a week or two old, at arm’s length,
calling out “Hakeem howaga” (doctor, sir). This he continued at intervals
for about a quarter of an hour, until I had got rid of many patients.
What he intended this diminutive chicken for, unless as a present, I
was at a loss to understand; but when, at last, his turn came, I soon
discovered through Mahoom why the old man was so importunate. Yesterday
he came complaining of his eyes. I then told him he must procure a small
bottle for some lotion. “And now,” said Mahoom, laughing till he could
hardly stand, “he bring you dis little chicken.” What he thought I was
going to do with the chicken I don’t know, unless he expected me to smash
it up, and with it make a lotion for his eyes. On my previous visit I
gouged out some diseased bone from a boy’s foot, straightened the leg
of another boy who had suffered from a contracted knee, and so on. My
fame spread; hence the influx of patients suffering from all kinds of
diseases, curable and incurable. At 11.30 a.m. we left Heikota, reaching
Toodloak at 7 p.m., where we encamped on very dusty ground.
March 31st.—Here we found a very large village of Beni-Amirs encamped
on the Gash, who may be likened to locusts, as they remained at Heikota
until the animals had eaten up everything there; then they moved away to
pastures new. Toodloak is quite a lion neighbourhood. An immense zareeba
had been constructed on the river-bed in a large circle. Within this was
an inner circle formed by the huts of the tribe, and into that inner
circle many hundreds of camels, sheep, cattle, and goats are every night
driven in for protection from the wild beasts; yet, notwithstanding this,
a lion will sometimes leap the barrier and bound off with, a sheep or a
goat. Temp. 100° F. in the shade. The nights are now much warmer than
they were three weeks ago.
April 1st.—Last night two lions, a lioness, and two leopards were shot,
and all secured except one lion. We saw no less than seven or eight last
night. The lion was a very fine fellow, measuring nine feet two inches
from nose to tip of his tail. Sali cut a bit of the lion’s liver, to make
him brave, as he said—a quite unnecessary proceeding, for he once was
plucky enough to enter the jungle in search of a wounded lion, and that
is what few would care to do.
April 2nd.—Lions are plentiful here. Last night they made a great noise
round the camp, probably attracted thither by the sheep and goats. The
Arabs had to mount guard over these, walking round in couples with spears
and shield, and shouting to keep them away. Last night the party went out
in couples at considerable distances apart. Each couple was ensconced
in a small zareeba, in front of which was a goat or sheep, tethered to
a stake driven in the ground, to tempt a lion. Opposite Mr. Colvin’s
zareeba, whilst he was patiently waiting inside for a lion to make his
appearance, he had the mortification to see one leap on to his sheep,
seize him, and bound off again with the sheep, pegs and rope ere he could
get a fair shot at him; he discharged his rifle, but missed his lion. The
heat is so great to-day that it is quite uncomfortable to walk across the
river-bed in slippers—104° F. in the shade. To-morrow we shall probably
start afresh, and pitch our moving tents a day’s march nearer home.
April 3rd.—All astir this morning preparing for the march to Amadeb,
where we expect to find letters and newspapers from England. We have some
tame monkeys and baboons in camp, which are very amusing and playful.
When we are at breakfast some of them come and watch us, thankfully
receiving any crumbs of comfort we choose to throw them. Although their
movements are quite unfettered, they make no attempt to leave us and
join their comrades who have not been civilized. Baboons, which are very
large and strong, will sometimes form themselves into a limited liability
company for the purpose of attacking a leopard, relieving one another at
intervals; then, at last, when they think a favourable opportunity has
arrived, all suddenly swoop down on him at once. They will often lay in
wait for the goats and sheep going to water, then go and suck them whilst
they are drinking; after which refreshing performance these robbers,
not liking to return to their mountain fastnesses empty-handed, will
take the liberty of borrowing a kid from the flock. Last night, about 10
o’clock, we heard lions near camp. One came pretty close to the horses,
causing quite a stampede amongst them; at the same time all the camels
got up, showing signs of great uneasiness. Lions are very numerous here,
hyænas few. When hyænas predominate they will often attack a lion, and
in a very systematic way, too. A number will get in front of him, and
act as designing persons in England sometimes do. They throw dust in
his eyes, then the whole pack will fall upon and make an end of him. At
such times both the lion and hyænas make a great uproar. We heard them
one night, and Sali, who is an excellent tracker, told us that hyænas
were then attacking a lion. We hear that Sheik Ahmed, with a number of
the Beni-Amirs, have made arrangements with the Basé for a shooting
expedition in their country, intending to go as far as Maiambasar, then
cross from there to the Settite. They have a curious way of making
themselves agreeable out there. To make themselves acceptable, they will
take wives from amongst the Basé; then when they leave the country they
leave them behind, at the same time presenting them with a piece of
cloth, some dhurra, and, perhaps, a few dollars.
April 4th.—Marched about nine hours to-day, encamping in a very
mountainous region. Whilst the tents were being pitched, Mr. Colvin
picked up a book, went about a hundred yards from camp, and sat down
under a tree to read. He had not been there long ere he heard something
breathing near him; looked round, and saw a hyæna within a _very_ easy
distance. He naturally got up and made tracks for camp, as he had no
rifle with him. His unwelcome interviewer followed him pretty closely
until he approached the camp. Soon after this, very near to camp, one of
them made for Dra, who drew his sword and shouted. George saw him, and at
once gave him the contents of his rifle.
April 5th.—Marched from 8 a.m., reaching Amadeb, a garrison town, at 8.30
p.m. We travelled a very mountainous region to-day—in one part, for the
distance of a mile or two, over large boulders of marble on the roadway.
On arriving at Amadeb, all were soon busy in reading their letters from
England. The Bey here treated us with great consideration and kindness,
providing us with tea, sugar, milk, biscuits, and cigarettes whilst our
tents were being pitched and we were reading our letters. I had almost
forgotten to mention one very exciting incident during our journey
to-day, and it was this—All our party, except Mr. Colvin and myself,
had gone on considerably in advance of the caravan (we were travelling
along a dry river-bed, consequently on very open ground), when Suleiman
came up in great haste, saying, “Doctor, have you got your rifle ready?
The caravan is going to be attacked in the rear;” and off he went to
inform the others. Colvin and I soon got our rifles and revolvers in
readiness, and trotted back to the rear, where we found our men in a
great state of excitement, leaping about, brandishing their spears, and
insanely yelling, “Whoop! whoop!” which, of course, was no use, but an
inconsiderate way of spending time and ventilating their feelings. Facing
them were, perhaps, 80 or 100 Bareas (akin to the Basé), indulging in
the same lunatic kind of performance. Our reinforcements arrived, in the
shape of George, Anselmia, and the rest of the party. The Bareas, seeing
our strength, then vanished like chaff before the wind. This was destined
to be our last scare. From the information we could gather, it seems
that the Bareas thought our numerous boxes were filled with dollars, and
(according to Dra and Girgas) began pointing their spears towards them
as if on hostile intentions bent. They retaliated by pointing rifles
at them, which had the effect of inciting these fellows into a kind of
war-like dance, accompanied by a significant brandishing of spears; and
there is very little doubt that blood would have been spilt had we not
promptly appeared on the scene.
April 6th.—Amadeb appears to be a tolerably large place. The houses are
made of mud bricks baked in the sun, and are thatched. The whole town
is surrounded by a mud wall. As we did not start until 3 p.m., I had
many patients to attend. At 5 p.m. we encamped on pretty good ground,
surrounded by trees, in which were thousands of doves, about 16 brace of
which Mr. F. James and I soon knocked over, thus providing luncheon for
the next day or two. We found water here.
April 7th.—We marched from 8 a.m. until 8 p.m., a distance of about 30
miles. At noon we passed a place where some thousands of camel, cattle,
sheep, and goats were being watered. Of course, at this time of the
year, all the river-courses are dry, and the water has to be drawn up
from deep wells. The Beni-Amirs, and other neighbouring tribes, are a
pastoral people, and owners of enormous herds, on which they wholly
subsist. They produce nothing, and seem to require nothing, except a few
yards of cotton. Their mode of watering the herds is a very laborious
one. On this sandy river-bed I observed about 20 very large but shallow
mud-basins, and close to each basin a well. At the top of each well is an
Arab, provided with a large antelope skin (dressed), fastened around the
sides, and attached to a long rope. This skin he drops into the well, and
hauls up, hand-over-hand, full of water, which he tips into the mud-basin
until it is full. With such insufficient means, of course, a long time is
occupied in filling the basins.
In the afternoon George, who had gone on ahead, came back much excited,
saying there was a young elephant in a wood which could be easily shot,
adding that if he had had an elephant rifle with him he should have been
tempted to let fly. It was fortunate that he had not, for presently we
met the owner of this captured elephant, accompanied by a number of
natives. They had halted for a short time, and had secured the elephant
to a tree by a rope round the neck and leg. He had been captured at
Forfar. His tusks were just protruding. Just as I approached him a native
ran up, saying, “Batal, batal howaga” (bad, bad, sir). The man was right,
for this infant had already wounded five men severely. I, therefore, kept
a respectful distance. The country through which we travelled to-day
was very mountainous, and here and there big plains covered with bushes;
still nothing like so bad as the road before we got to Amadeb.
April 8th.—Marched from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m., encamping at Gargee,
situated on Khor-Baraker. We stay here to-night, hoping to secure another
lion. Just after dinner we heard jackals barking very much like dogs.