ENCAMP AT LAKATAKOORA WITHOUT THE CARAVAN—DESCRIPTION OF
VILLAGE—BASÉ LADIES VISIT ME ERE I GET OUT OF BED—THEY RECEIVE
PRESENTS AND ARE VERY AMUSING—ENORMOUS NUMBERS OF DOVES AND
SAND-GROUSE—ABOOSALAL TO SOGODA—BOA-CONSTRICTOR KILLED—AN
UNPLEASANT JOURNEY, WE ALL GET SEPARATED—ARRIVE AT HEIKOTA
AGAIN.
March 23rd.—Leaving Khor-Maiatah at 8.45 a.m., we had an exceptionally
unpleasant day of it. We had seen the last of that fine river, the
Tacazze; now if water was wanted it could only be obtained by digging a
few feet in the sandy river-beds. We travelled over mountains, plains,
valleys, river-beds, and nearly all day through a forest of those horrid
mimosas, finally arriving at Lakatakoora, in the Basé country, at 7 p.m.,
_without_ the caravan. At about 11 p.m. Cheriff, with the canteen, Ali
the cook, and a few only of the camels arrived.
As we had not tasted food since about 1 p.m., Cheriff’s canteen was soon
surrounded by us, and the contents of it cleared out in a very short
time. Our dinner (which was a scanty one this time) did not appear until
12.30 a.m. Whilst this was being prepared by Ali we fired off rifles,
burnt blue lights, and lighted a beacon fire for Suleiman with the hamlah
to see where we were; but all to no purpose—they had lost their way.
The moon retired for the night, and so many trees had to cut be down to
enable them to come on, that at last they gave up the idea of attempting
to find us, so slept out.
We also had rather a hard time of it. There was no choice of a
camping-ground—there was but one. This was a large open space devoid of
vegetation, but covered with a thick layer of impalpable dust, about an
inch or so in thickness, infested with white ants. Fortunately our tents
and bedding arrived. I did not wait for my tent to be pitched, but placed
my bedding on the canvas covering of my tent on the ground, and there I
managed to get through the night in a rather unsatisfactory manner. The
other members of the party elected to remain up until their tents were
pitched.
March 24th.—I passed a somewhat uncomfortable night amongst the white
ants, lulled to sleep by the music of hyænas, some of whom seem to have
been intensely amused at our situation, if one may judge from the bursts
of merriment issuing from _their_ camp, as they were evidently excited
by uncontrollable fits of laughter, making the woods in the immediate
neighbourhood resound by the exercise of their risible faculties.
I awoke about 6.30 a.m., but did not arise until 7. Quite near to our
camp I observed on a precipitous mountain side enormous basalt rocks,
some _single_ rocks as big as a good-sized house. This was the village
of Lakatakoora; and amongst these rocks, concealed from view, lived some
Basé. I had not been awake long ere many of the Basé ladies, covered
with beads, their eyelids and lips stained with kohl, rings in their
noses and ears, and a strip of cloth around their waists, came and shook
hands with me, murmuring “Mida” (good-day). Both men and women came in
such increasing numbers that I decided to get up, and had to perform my
toilet in their presence. They watched the whole performance with evident
interest. Such a contrivance as a tooth-brush and tooth-powder elicited
expressions of wonder and admiration, but a hair-brush and comb pleased
them still more. Water was scarce. I therefore had to wash _à la_ Turk.
Mahoom stood by me with a salmon tin full of water, pouring out little
driblets of water into my hands, finally douching my head with the
remaining drop, about two ounces.
Our guide had been sent off at 6 a.m. in search of the lost portion of
the caravan. He found it, and piloted it into our camp at 8.30 a.m.
The Basé were very friendly and obliging in the way of water, for they
brought us this invaluable liquid in very beautifully worked baskets,
so closely woven that not a drop escaped, slung on the shoulder, like
a pair of scales. They also brought us several gourds of wild honey,
which we bought. Many beads and small looking-glasses were given to the
ladies, who appeared highly delighted and amused when they saw their own
faces reflected from a looking-glass for the first time in their lives.
They crowded round the fortunate recipient of one of these reflectors,
peeping over one another’s shoulders, giggling and laughing at their own
reflection in a most amusing manner.
All being packed up by 10 a.m., we moved off a short distance, halting
at Aboosalal at 12.30 p.m. on the sandy bed of a khor, surrounded on
either side by lofty, precipitous rocks, along which scampered hundreds
of enormous baboons and monkeys. Both men and camels seemed completely
knocked up. A little way from camp was a little pool of water in this
khor; and in the neighbourhood, without exaggeration, were thousands
upon thousands of doves and sand-grouse. I took my gun down there in the
evening when they came to drink, and stationed myself behind a huge rock.
In less than half-an-hour I bagged about 15 brace of sand-grouse and five
brace of doves.
The day before we arrived here the natives had killed an elephant. They
and the vultures had picked his bones pretty clean, as nothing but his
skeleton remained when I saw it. His tusks, of course, had been taken
away. Later on they were offered to me by a Sheik’s son; but as they were
damaged, small, and the price excessive, I was not a purchaser.
March 25.—Made a long march from Aboosalal to Sogoda, where water could
be found. We started soon after 8 a.m., and long before we reached our
destination darkness came on. This was a most unpleasant journey through
prickly trees, again tearing our patched-up clothes and helmets. In one
place we all got separated, each one selecting the way he thought best.
I lost my way in a forest of kittar and mimosa bushes. I was obliged to
dismount my camel, and presently got in such a fix that I could scarcely
move either backwards or forwards. Noises became indistinct, and finally,
I could not hear a sound. Others were, apparently, in the same position
as myself, for shots and revolvers resounded on all sides. Eventually we
reached the camping ground in detachments at 8, 9, and 10 o’clock, dining
at 11 p.m., bed at 12.30. In the evening, before dark, we came across the
trail of a boa-constrictor, followed it up, and successfully despatched
the reptile, which measured 12 feet in length. The next day we pitched
our tents at Fahncoub, on very good ground, surrounded by fine trees.
Sogoda was a horrid place, the ground being covered with fine dust.
March 26th.—Starting from Fahncoub at 8.30 a.m., we once more reached
Heikota at 11.30, having travelled a distance of 10 miles only. We found
Herr Schumann, the animal collector, had gone, calling at Kassala, and
taking all the animals with him to Souâkin. I take the opportunity
of sending a letter on to Kassala by Alki, who has been a very good
trustworthy fellow, but who is now leaving us, as he has a bad whitlow.