LETTER XXXVII.—(_Continued_.)

Aino Clothing—Holiday Dress—Domestic Architecture—Household Gods—Japanese

Curios—The Necessaries of Life—Clay Soup—Arrow Poison—Arrow-Traps—Female

Occupations—Bark Cloth—The Art of Weaving.

AINO clothing, for savages, is exceptionally good. In the winter it

consists of one, two, or more coats of skins, with hoods of the same, to

which the men add rude moccasins when they go out hunting. In summer

they wear kimonos, or loose coats, made of cloth woven from the split

bark of a forest tree. This is a durable and beautiful fabric in various

shades of natural buff, and somewhat resembles what is known to fancy

workers as “Panama canvas.” Under this a skin or bark-cloth vest may or

may not be worn. The men wear these coats reaching a little below the

knees, folded over from right to left, and confined at the waist by a

narrow girdle of the same cloth, to which is attached a rude,

dagger-shaped knife, with a carved and engraved wooden handle and sheath.

Smoking is by no means a general practice; consequently the pipe and

tobacco-box are not, as with the Japanese, a part of ordinary male

attire. Tightly-fitting leggings, either of bark-cloth or skin, are worn

by both sexes, but neither shoes nor sandals. The coat worn by the women

reaches half-way between the knees and ankles, and is quite loose and

without a girdle. It is fastened the whole way up to the collar-bone;

and not only is the Aino woman completely covered, but she will not

change one garment for another except alone or in the dark. Lately a

Japanese woman at Sarufuto took an Aino woman into her house, and

insisted on her taking a bath, which she absolutely refused to do till

the bath-house had been made quite private by means of screens. On the

Japanese woman going back a little later to see what had become of her,

she found her sitting in the water in her clothes; and on being

remonstrated with, she said that the gods would be angry if they saw her

without clothes!

Many of the garments for holiday occasions are exceedingly handsome,

being decorated with “geometrical” patterns, in which the “Greek fret”

takes part, in coarse blue cotton, braided most dexterously with scarlet

and white thread. Some of the handsomest take half a year to make. The

masculine dress is completed by an apron of oblong shape decorated in the

same elaborate manner. These handsome savages, with their powerful

physique, look remarkably well in their best clothes. I have not seen a

boy or girl above nine who is not thoroughly clothed. The “jewels” of

the women are large, hoop earrings of silver or pewter, with attachments

of a classical pattern, and silver neck ornaments, and a few have brass

bracelets soldered upon their arms. The women have a perfect passion for

every hue of red, and I have made friends with them by dividing among

them a large turkey-red silk handkerchief, strips of which are already

being utilised for the ornamenting of coats.

The houses in the five villages up here are very good. So they are at

Horobets, but at Shiraôi, where the aborigines suffer from the close

proximity of several grog shops, they are inferior. They differ in many

ways from any that I have before seen, approaching most nearly to the

grass houses of the natives of Hawaii. Custom does not appear to permit

either of variety or innovations; in all the style is the same, and the

difference consists in the size and plenishings. The dwellings seem

ill-fitted for a rigorous climate, but the same thing may be said of

those of the Japanese. In their houses, as in their faces, the Ainos are

more European than their conquerors, as they possess doorways, windows,

central fireplaces, like those of the Highlanders of Scotland, and raised

sleeping-places.

The usual appearance is that of a small house built on at the end of a

larger one. The small house is the vestibule or ante-room, and is

entered by a low doorway screened by a heavy mat of reeds. It contains

the large wooden mortar and pestle with two ends, used for pounding

millet, a wooden receptacle for millet, nets or hunting gear, and some

bundles of reeds for repairing roof or walls. This room never contains a

window. From it the large room is entered by a doorway, over which a

heavy reed-mat, bound with hide, invariably hangs. This room in Benri’s

case is 35 feet long by 25 feet broad, another is 45 feet square, the

smallest measures 20 feet by 15. On entering, one is much impressed by

the great height and steepness of the roof, altogether out of proportion

to the height of the walls.

The frame of the house is of posts, 4 feet 10 inches high, placed 4 feet

apart, and sloping slightly inwards. The height of the walls is

apparently regulated by that of the reeds, of which only one length is

used, and which never exceed 4 feet 10 inches. The posts are scooped at

the top, and heavy poles, resting on the scoops, are laid along them to

form the top of the wall. The posts are again connected twice by

slighter poles tied on horizontally. The wall is double; the outer part

being formed of reeds tied very neatly to the framework in small, regular

bundles, the inner layer or wall being made of reeds attached singly.

From the top of the pole, which is secured to the top of the posts, the

framework of the roof rises to a height of twenty-two feet, made, like

the rest, of poles tied to a heavy and roughly-hewn ridge-beam. At one

end under the ridge-beam there is a large triangular aperture for the

exit of smoke. Two very stout, roughly-hewn beams cross the width of the

house, resting on the posts of the wall, and on props let into the floor,

and a number of poles are laid at the same height, by means of which a

secondary roof formed of mats can be at once extemporised, but this is

only used for guests. These poles answer the same purpose as shelves.

Very great care is bestowed upon the outside of the roof, which is a

marvel of neatness and prettiness, and has the appearance of a series of

frills being thatched in ridges. The ridge-pole is very thickly covered,

and the thatch both there and at the corners is elaborately laced with a

pattern in strong peeled twigs. The poles, which, for much of the room,

run from wall to wall, compel one to stoop, to avoid fracturing one’s

skull, and bringing down spears, bows and arrows, arrow-traps, and other

primitive property. The roof and rafters are black and shiny from wood

smoke. Immediately under them, at one end and one side, are small,

square windows, which are closed at night by wooden shutters, which

during the day-time hang by ropes. Nothing is a greater insult to an

Aino than to look in at his window.

On the left of the doorway is invariably a fixed wooden platform,

eighteen inches high, and covered with a single mat, which is the

sleeping-place. The pillows are small stiff bolsters, covered with

ornamental matting. If the family be large there are several of these

sleeping platforms. A pole runs horizontally at a fitting distance above

the outside edge of each, over which mats are thrown to conceal the

sleepers from the rest of the room. The inside half of these mats is

plain, but the outside, which is seen from the room, has a diamond

pattern woven into it in dull reds and browns. The whole floor is

covered with a very coarse reed-mat, with interstices half an inch wide.

The fireplace, which is six feet long, is oblong. Above it, on a very

black and elaborate framework, hangs a very black and shiny mat, whose

superfluous soot forms the basis of the stain used in tattooing, and

whose apparent purpose is to prevent the smoke ascending, and to diffuse

it equally throughout the room. From this framework depends the great

cooking-pot, which plays a most important part in Aino economy.

Household gods form an essential part of the furnishing of every house.

In this one, at the left of the entrance, there are ten white wands, with

shavings depending from the upper end, stuck in the wall; another

projects from the window which faces the sunrise, and the great god—a

white post, two feet high, with spirals of shavings depending from the

top—is always planted in the floor, near the wall, on the left side,

opposite the fire, between the platform bed of the householder and the

low, broad shelf placed invariably on the same side, and which is a

singular feature of all Aino houses, coast and mountain, down to the

poorest, containing, as it does, Japanese curios, many of them very

valuable objects of antique art, though much destroyed by damp and dust.

They are true curiosities in the dwellings of these northern aborigines,

and look almost solemn ranged against the wall. In this house there are

twenty-four lacquered urns, or tea-chests, or seats, each standing two

feet high on four small legs, shod with engraved or filigree brass.

Behind these are eight lacquered tubs, and a number of bowls and lacquer

trays, and above are spears with inlaid handles, and fine Kaga and Awata

bowls. The lacquer is good, and several of the urns have _daimiyô’s_

crests in gold upon them. One urn and a large covered bowl are

beautifully inlaid with Venus’ ear. The great urns are to be seen in

every house, and in addition there are suits of inlaid armour, and swords

with inlaid hilts, engraved blades, and _répoussé_ scabbards, for which a

collector would give almost anything. No offers, however liberal, can

tempt them to sell any of these antique possessions. “They were

presents,” they say in their low, musical voices; “they were presents

from those who were kind to our fathers; no, we cannot sell them; they

were presents.” And so gold lacquer, and pearl inlaying, and gold

niello-work, and _daimiyô’s_ crests in gold, continue to gleam in the

smoky darkness of their huts. Some of these things were doubtless gifts

to their fathers when they went to pay tribute to the representative of

the Shôgun and the Prince of Matsumæ, soon after the conquest of Yezo.

Others were probably gifts from _samurai_, who took refuge here during

the rebellion, and some must have been obtained by barter. They are the

one possession which they will not barter for _saké_, and are only parted

with in payment of fines at the command of a chief, or as the dower of a

girl.

[Picture: Aino Gods]

Except in the poorest houses, where the people can only afford to lay

down a mat for a guest, they cover the coarse mat with fine ones on each

side of the fire. These mats and the bark-cloth are really their only

manufactures. They are made of fine reeds, with a pattern in dull reds

or browns, and are 14 feet long by 3 feet 6 inches wide. It takes a

woman eight days to make one of them. In every house there are one or

two movable platforms 6 feet by 4 and 14 inches high, which are placed at

the head of the fireplace, and on which guests sit and sleep on a

bearskin or a fine mat. In many houses there are broad seats a few

inches high, on which the elder men sit cross-legged, as their custom is,

not squatting Japanese fashion on the heels. A water-tub always rests on

a stand by the door, and the dried fish and venison or bear for daily use

hang from the rafters, as well as a few skins. Besides these things

there are a few absolute necessaries,—lacquer or wooden bowls for food

and _saké_, a chopping-board and rude chopping-knife, a cleft-stick for

burning strips of birch-bark, a triply-cleft stick for supporting the

potsherd in which, on rare occasions, they burn a wick with oil, the

component parts of their rude loom, the bark of which they make their

clothes, the reeds of which they make their mats,—and the inventory of

the essentials of their life is nearly complete. No iron enters into the

construction of their houses, its place being supplied by a remarkably

tenacious fibre.

[Picture: Plan of an Aino House]

I have before described the preparation of their food, which usually

consists of a stew “of abominable things.” They eat salt and fresh fish,

dried fish, seaweed, slugs, the various vegetables which grow in the

wilderness of tall weeds which surrounds their villages, wild roots and

berries, fresh and dried venison and bear; their carnival consisting of

fresh bear’s flesh and _saké_, seaweed, mushrooms, and anything they can

get, in fact, which is not poisonous, mixing everything up together.

They use a wooden spoon for stirring, and eat with chopsticks. They have

only two regular meals a day, but eat very heartily. In addition to the

eatables just mentioned they have a thick soup made from a putty-like

clay which is found in one or two of the valleys. This is boiled with

the bulb of a wild lily, and, after much of the clay has been allowed to

settle, the liquid, which is very thick, is poured off. In the north, a

valley where this earth is found is called Tsie-toi-nai, literally

“eat-earth-valley.”

The men spend the autumn, winter, and spring in hunting deer and bears.

Part of their tribute or taxes is paid in skins, and they subsist on the

dried meat. Up to about this time the Ainos have obtained these beasts

by means of poisoned arrows, arrow-traps, and pitfalls, but the Japanese

Government has prohibited the use of poison and arrow-traps, and these

men say that hunting is becoming extremely difficult, as the wild animals

are driven back farther and farther into the mountains by the sound of

the guns. However, they add significantly, “the eyes of the Japanese

Government are not in every place!”

Their bows are only three feet long, and are made of stout saplings with

the bark on, and there is no attempt to render them light or shapely at

the ends. The wood is singularly inelastic. The arrows (of which I have

obtained a number) are very peculiar, and are made in three pieces, the

point consisting of a sharpened piece of bone with an elongated cavity on

one side for the reception of the poison. This point or head is very

slightly fastened by a lashing of bark to a fusiform piece of bone about

four inches long, which is in its turn lashed to a shaft about fourteen

inches long, the other end of which is sometimes equipped with a triple

feather and sometimes is not.

The poison is placed in the elongated cavity in the head in a very soft

state, and hardens afterwards. In some of the arrow-heads fully half a

teaspoonful of the paste is inserted. From the nature of the very slight

lashings which attach the arrow-head to the shaft, it constantly remains

fixed in the slight wound that it makes, while the shaft falls off.

Pipichari has given me a small quantity of the poisonous paste, and has

also taken me to see the plant from the root of which it is made, the

_Aconitum Japonicum_, a monkshood, whose tall spikes of blue flowers are

brightening the brushwood in all directions. The root is pounded into a

pulp, mixed with a reddish earth like an iron ore pulverised, and again

with animal fat, before being placed in the arrow. It has been said that

the poison is prepared for use by being buried in the earth, but Benri

says that this is needless. They claim for it that a single wound kills

a bear in ten minutes, but that the flesh is not rendered unfit for

eating, though they take the precaution of cutting away a considerable

quantity of it round the wound.

[Picture: Weaver’s Shuttle]

Dr. Eldridge, formerly of Hakodaté, obtained a small quantity of the

poison, and, after trying some experiments with it, came to the

conclusion that it is less virulent than other poisons employed for a

like purpose, as by the natives of Java, the Bushmen, and certain tribes

of the Amazon and Orinoco. The Ainos say that if a man is accidentally

wounded by a poisoned arrow the only cure is immediate excision of the

part.

I do not wonder that the Government has prohibited arrow-traps, for they

made locomotion unsafe, and it is still unsafe a little farther north,

where the hunters are more out of observation than here. The traps

consist of a large bow with a poisoned arrow, fixed in such a way that

when the bear walks over a cord which is attached to it he is

simultaneously transfixed. I have seen as many as fifty in one house.

The simple contrivance for inflicting this silent death is most

ingenious.

The women are occupied all day, as I have before said. They look

cheerful, and even merry when they smile, and are not like the Japanese,

prematurely old, partly perhaps because their houses are well ventilated,

and the use of charcoal is unknown. I do not think that they undergo the

unmitigated drudgery which falls to the lot of most savage women, though

they work hard. The men do not like them to speak to strangers, however,

and say that their place is to work and rear children. They eat of the

same food, and at the same time as the men, laugh and talk before them,

and receive equal support and respect in old age. They sell mats and

bark-cloth in the piece, and made up, when they can, and their husbands

do not take their earnings from them. All Aino women understand the

making of bark-cloth. The men bring in the bark in strips, five feet

long, having removed the outer coating. This inner bark is easily

separated into several thin layers, which are split into very narrow

strips by the older women, very neatly knotted, and wound into balls

weighing about a pound each. No preparation of either the bark or the

thread is required to fit it for weaving, but I observe that some of the

women steep it in a decoction of a bark which produces a brown dye to

deepen the buff tint.

The loom is so simple that I almost fear to represent it as complicated

by description. It consists of a stout hook fixed in the floor, to which

the threads of the far end of the web are secured, a cord fastening the

near end to the waist of the worker, who supplies, by dexterous rigidity,

the necessary tension; a frame like a comb resting on the ankles, through

which the threads pass, a hollow roll for keeping the upper and under

threads separate, a spatula-shaped shuttle of engraved wood, and a roller

on which the cloth is rolled as it is made. The length of the web is

fifteen feet, and the width of the cloth fifteen inches. It is woven

with great regularity, and the knots in the thread are carefully kept on

the under side. {271} It is a very slow and fatiguing process, and a

woman cannot do much more than a foot a day. The weaver sits on the

floor with the whole arrangement attached to her waist, and the loom, if

such it may be called, on her ankles. It takes long practice before she

can supply the necessary tension by spinal rigidity. As the work

proceeds she drags herself almost imperceptibly nearer the hook. In this

house and other large ones two or three women bring in their webs in the

morning, fix their hooks, and weave all day, while others, who have not

equal advantages, put their hooks in the ground and weave in the

sunshine. The web and loom can be bundled up in two minutes, and carried

away quite as easily as a knitted soft blanket. It is the simplest and

perhaps the most primitive form of hand-loom, and comb, shuttle, and

roll, are all easily fashioned with an ordinary knife.

[Picture: A Hiogo Buddha]

Unbeaten Tracks in Japan · 第 99 / 127 题