Once to me came an Inspector from the Department, and he said:—

“Now you have been having trouble with these Indians, and I am

surprised that you have dismissed all your Navajo policemen as

unworthy. You must have a police force to keep the Navajo in line. We

will call a council and select a new outfit to sustain you in this

important work.”

Which we did. There were flour and meat, coffee and sugar, together

with the all-necessary beck-a-shay nahto, cattle tobacco provided for

distribution, and the people came. As usual, the men were diffident and

modest, and no one offered himself for appointment as an officer of the

realm. The nominations were made by head-men, and discussion followed

as to individual merits, influence, bravery, and all those virtues that

are supposed to animate the warrior. The Inspector was finally

satisfied with the selections.

An old-timer sat on the platform with us, acting as interpreter. Ed had

skinned mules across the Zuni Mountains in 1889, and he could take an

old single-action forty-five and keep a tin can moving as if it were

alive. He could roll a saddle-blanket cigarette with one hand, sing a

puncher song, and play the guitar. He was one of the post-traders, and

perhaps the best Navajo interpreter alive. He knew the Navajo Indian,

having had the advantage of a living dictionary in his early days. But

Ed knew when to keep his mouth shut, and aside from faithfully

interpreting from English into Navajo and from Navajo into English he

said nothing at the time. But later:—

“It wasn’t for me, a mere uneducated Indian trader, to give my advice

to a wise guy from the East who was pointing the trails out to a

Nahtahni; but ... every damned one of them new police has ‘medicine

turquoise’ in his ears.”

It was true. Every one of them should have been in jail!

The Navajo are lithe and lean, for the most part, and their dress is

picturesque. One could see all sorts of costume at this “sing.” There

was the old fellow with trousers compiled of flour sacks, the brand

having been arranged as a bit of decoration, and where “OUR BEST” would

show to most advantage; and there was that one satisfied with a pair of

cast-off overalls. But the majority were in rich-toned velveteen

shirts, open at the neck, and with sleeves vented under the armpits;

and desert trousers, loose and flapping garments, Spanish-style, split

below the knee, made of highly colored and figured calico. One fellow’s

legs were a riot of gaudy parrots. The twisted silk handkerchiefs worn

about the head came from the Spanish too, no doubt. Their hair was

drawn back from the forehead and corded in a long knot, a Mongol touch.

Their moccasins were of red-stained buckskin, half-shoe, half-leggin,

warm and noiseless. The young men wore gay shirts and neckerchiefs,

store-bought, and their ponies showed more of decoration than

themselves. Each had a good saddle, most necessary to a desert Romeo,

and the headdresses of the ponies were heavy with silver bands and

rosettes.

Now a middle-aged dandy would strut about, proud of a crimson shirt,

and the firelight would paint him as a figure from old opera. He would

shine whitely of silver—a huge necklace, with turquoise pendants and

many strands of shell and coral; bracelets, and the khado that is still

worn, though the wrist no longer needs protection from the bowstring;

silver rings and silver buttons, all studded with turquoise chips. Not

less than five hundred dollars in metal and workmanship would adorn

these old beaux, and an Indian valuation would be enormous.

Silver and turquoise are the jeweled wealth of the Navajo, the white

metal contrasting with their sunburnt skins and the stone holding the

color of their matchless skies.

The women wore velveteen bodices and curiously full skirts. They too

were weighted with silver ornaments, one having the more of beads and

bandeaux being the favorite wife or daughter. Some of the smaller girls

moved about accompanied by the tinkling of little bells strung to their

moccasins and belts.

All this in the brilliant flare of the cottonwood fire, above which

fanned a mist of sparks like another Milky Way; and there was the

incense of the smoking logs; and the star-pinned dome overhead; and all

around the dark maw of the great lonely Desert.

Suddenly came a halt in these “singing” proceedings. The choir withdrew

somewhere, and the centre of the stage was taken by another old man,

who led a little girl. Other and older girls began to hurry around the

circle, darting here, darting there, as if running something down. At

first the little one seemed a trifle confused and stood in wide-eyed

hesitation; but with a bit of urging from the elder master of the

ceremonies, she made for Roberts. He would lead this german. Grinning,

he permitted her to pull him into the ring, his partner maintaining a

solemnity that was comical.

“Get ready for the next set,” he called to me over his shoulder.

The social features were on, and the girls were hunting partners. Did

the young men of the ponies vie with each other? They did not. They sat

their steeds as if cut from granite. For it would seem that a young man

would likely lose half his finery, certainly all his change, if

captured, and might find himself later up against a breach-of-promise

suit. On foot, he was at a disadvantage; mounted, it was the more

difficult to drag him down. I cannot say that I noticed any chivalry

among those young Navajo fellows.

But Roberts—there was a fine accommodating chap for you. One partner

was not enough for him; he now had two of the tiny ones.

The dance seemed simple enough. It consisted in one’s acting as a

pivot, around which the little squaw, or several of them, turned

backward with rapid scuffling steps. Her one hand tightly gripped the

man’s belt, the other held as tightly her blanket. Her expression was

as sober as a Chinaman’s. But she accomplished the purpose of the

business. After a few moments of that turning, the subject would be too

dizzy to argue out of a donation. It kept up until Roberts was weaving;

but when they stopped he protested that he was a poverty-stricken

wretch—and promptly, without cracking a smile, they began again. He

must shell out at least a quarter to each, which he did finally, and

they scuttled back to their chaperons, who banked the money. And here

he came unsteadily to the blanket we shared, while I suspected several

of the old women casting menacing glances in my direction. There

sounded a scurry in the outer darkness, and a crashing of the

greasewood.

“The doc’ has beat it,” said Roberts, dropping down. I raised to look

around; and just then, from behind, I felt a very muscular hand

grasping my belt. There was nothing to do but yield in the best humor

possible. A wild shout from the Indians, men and women, even from the

ungallant horsemen grouped in the rear, and I was thrust and pulled

forward. They had appointed two of the small girls to me, and their

hold on my belt was like grim death.

And now the shuffle began.

I endeavored to spin without entangling my feet, but there was

something wrong with my action. I was no such success as friend Roberts

had been. Now the master of ceremonies came forward, his wrinkled face

having the benevolence of a grandfather, and with expressive gestures

he explained his sorrow because of my inefficiency. He would give me a

lesson. We used words that neither understood, and made signs at each

other until wholesale laughter retired the teacher. But I was not

retired. I was still in the ring.

The gold-and-orange flares of the fires dazzled one’s eyes, and then

one began to turn faster; the circle of bright figures in the full

light lost outline, and then the wagons and horses and hogan and

Roberts on his blanket blurred into and formed one jumbled

merry-go-round of which I was the centre. A little more of this, and I

cried “Enough!” and very nearly staggered into the fire. Solemnly my

partners waited for and clutched at their two-bit pieces, and I weaved

back to the blanket.

The doctor was not captured that night. Perhaps he managed to hide

until we harnessed the team and started for home; perhaps he walked

into the Agency, as several accused. But this was a “running dance,”

meaning a moving one. A second installment of it was held the next

night at a point ten miles down the river. The doctor was compelled to

go, and there they ran him down and forced his performance. His effort

was not half bad, and I wondered if mine had been as funny.

Affairs of this sort taught me that the desert Navajo are a

good-natured and interesting people, in many ways like our own country

folk at quilting-bees and huskings. They have their renegades and black

sheep, with which the white race is as fully endowed; and my ugly

experiences of later days could not be charged to the tribe.

When a Navajo is ailing, they manage to combine exorcism of the evil

spirits with the amusing dance, and whether or not old Beck-a-shay

Thlani was improved physically, the girls had a good time. It often

helps them to find a husband; and in this case, how were they to know

that Roberts would desert them for an Albuquerque girl, or that in a

few months I would be interested only in solemnizing the marriages of

older sisters and the herding of the remainder into schools?

But I have often wondered, when on those trails leading down into

Beck-a-shay Thlani’s district, and coming suddenly on a shy Navajo

maiden chivvying a band of sheep, if she were one I danced with that

night on the Little Colorado River, when I was simply “Nultsose,” and

the worries and responsibilities of Nahtahni had not been clamped to my

shoulders.

Indians of the Enchanted Desert · 第 33 / 91 题