Having weighed at three in the morning on the 21st, with a light

breeze at N.N.W., we steered back to the southward, having three boats

ahead to direct us. But, notwithstanding this precaution, we found

more difficulty in returning than we had in advancing; and at last

were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had

only a depth of five feet. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the

country, each in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached

with great caution, hollowing and opening their arms as they advanced.

This, we understood, was to express their pacific intentions. At

length, some approached near enough to receive a few trifles that were

thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture alongside; and

a traffic presently commenced between them and our people; who got

dresses of skins, bows, arrows, darts, wooden vessels, &c.; our

visitors taking in exchange for these whatever was offered them. They

seemed to be the same sort of people that we had of late met with all

along this coast; wore the same kind of ornaments in their lips and

noses; but were far more dirty, and not so well clothed. They appeared

to be wholly unacquainted with people like us; they knew not the use

of tobacco; nor was any foreign article seen in their possession,

unless a knife may be looked upon as such. This, indeed, was only a

piece of common iron fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the

purpose of a knife. They, however, knew the value and use of this

instrument so well, that it seemed to be the only article they wished

for. Most of them had their hair shaved or cut short off, leaving only

a few locks behind, or on one side. For a covering for the head they

wore a hood of skins, and a bonnet which appeared to be of wool. One

part of their dress, which we got from them, was a kind of girdle,

very neatly made of skin, with trappings depending from it, and

passing between the legs, so as to conceal the adjoining parts. By

the use of such a girdle, it should seem that they sometimes go naked,

even in this high latitude; for they would hardly wear it under their

other clothing.

The canoes were made of skins, like all the others we had lately seen;

only with this difference, that these were broader, and the hole in

which the man sits was wider than in any I had before met with. Our

boats returning from sounding seemed to alarm them, so that they all

left us sooner than probably they would otherwise have done.

It was the 22d in the evening before we got clear of these shoals, and

then I durst not venture to steer to the westward in the night, but

spent it off Cape Newenham; and at day-break, next morning, steered

to the N.W., ordering the Discovery to lead. Before we had run two

leagues, our depth of water decreased to six fathoms. Fearing, if

we continued this course, that we should find less and less water, I

hauled to the southward; the wind being at east, a fresh breeze. This

course brought us gradually. into eighteen fathoms, and having that

depth, I ventured to steer a little westerly; and afterward west, when

we at last found twenty-six fathoms water.

On the 24th at noon, we were, by observation in the latitude of 58°

7', and in the longitude of 194° 22'. Three leagues to the westward

of this station we had twenty-eight fathoms water, and then steered

W.N.W., the water gradually deepening to thirty-four fathoms. I

would have steered more northerly, but the wind having veered in that

direction, I could not.

The 25th, in the evening, having a very thick fog, and but little

wind, we dropped anchor in thirty fathoms water. Our latitude was now

58° 29', and our longitude 191° 37'. At six, the next morning, the

weather clearing up a little, we weighed, and, with a small breeze

at east, steered north, our soundings being from twenty-eight to

twenty-five fathoms. After running nine leagues upon this course,

the wind returned back to the north, which obliged us to steer more

westerly.

The weather continued for the most part foggy till toward noon on the

28th, when we had a few hours clear sunshine; during which we made

several lunar observations. The mean result of them, reduced to

noon, when the latitude was 59° 55', gave 190° 6' longitude; and the

time-keeper gave 189° 59'. The variation of the compass was 18° 40'

E. Continuing our westerly course, the water having now deepened to

thirty-six fathoms, at four o'clock next morning we discovered land,

bearing N.W. by W., six leagues distant. We stood toward it till

half-past ten, when we tacked in twenty-four fathoms water, being at

this time a league from the land, which bore N.N.W. It was the S.E.

extremity, and formed a perpendicular cliff of considerable height; on

which account it was called _Point Upright_, and lies in the latitude

of 60° 17', and in the longitude of 187° 30'. More land was seen to

the westward of the point; and, at a clear interval, we saw another

elevated portion of land in the direction of W. by S.; and this

seemed to be entirely separated from the other. Here we met with an

incredible number of birds, all of the awk kind before described.

We had baffling light winds all the afternoon, so that we made but

little progress; and the weather was not clear enough to enable us to

determine the extent of the land before us. We supposed it to be one

of the many islands laid down by Mr Stæhlin, in his map of the New

Northern Archipelago; and we expected every moment to see more of

them.[4]

[Footnote 4: The opinion here given, we shall find, is afterwards

corrected; and the land in question proved to be a discovery unknown

to the Russians.--E.]

At four in the afternoon of the 30th, Point Upright bore N.W. by N.,

six leagues distant. About this time, a light breeze springing up at

N.N.W., we stood to the N.E. till four o'clock next morning, when the

wind veering to the eastward, we tacked, and stood to the N.W. Soon

after the wind came to S.E.; and we steered N.E. by N.; which course

we continued, with soundings from thirty-five to twenty fathoms, till

next day at noon. At this time we were in the latitude of 60° 58', and

in the longitude of 191°. The wind now veering to N.E., I first made

a stretch of ten leagues to the N.W.; and then, seeing no land in that

direction, I stood back to the eastward about fifteen leagues, and

met with nothing but pieces of drift-wood. The soundings were from

twenty-two to nineteen fathoms.

Variable, light winds, with showers of rain, prevailed all the 2d; but

fixing in the S.E. quarter in the morning of the 3d, we resumed our

course to the northward. At noon, we were, by observation, in the

latitude of 62° 34', our longitude was 192°, and our depth of water

sixteen fathoms.

Mr Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption

for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this

afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well

skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge

in other branches of science. The reader of this Journal will have

observed how useful an assistant I had found him in the course of the

voyage; and had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public,

I make no doubt, might have received from him such communications, on

various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited,

as would have abundantly shewn that he was not unworthy of this

commendation.[5] Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to

the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island;

and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom I had a very

great regard, I named it _Anderson's Island_. The next day, I removed

Mr Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the Resolution, and

appointed Mr Samuel, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, to be

surgeon of the Discovery.

[Footnote 5: Mr Anderson's Journal seems to have been discontinued for

about two months before his death; the last date in his MSS. being of

the 3d of June.--D.

The Biographia Britannica informs us, that Mr Anderson left his papers

to Sir Joseph Banks; but that the Admiralty took possession of the

larger part of them, and, for what reason is not mentioned, retained

them. Such parts, however, it is said, as related solely to natural

history, were delivered by Captain King to the Baronet, who bears

testimony "to the excellence of Mr A.'s character, the utility of his

observations, and to the great probability, that, if he had survived,

he would have given to the world something which would have done him

credit." Much of this commendatory opinion might be inferred from

what has been published of Mr A.'s labours, which constitute no

inconsiderable portion, either in bulk or value, of Captain Cook's

communications.--E.]

On the 4th, at three in the afternoon, land was seen, extending from

N.N.E. to N.W. We stood on toward it till four o'clock, when, being

four or five miles from it, we tacked; and, soon after, the wind

falling, we anchored in thirteen fathoms water, over a sandy bottom;

being about two leagues from the land, and, by our reckoning, in the

latitude of 64° 27', and in the longitude of 194° 18'. At intervals,

we could see the coast extending from E. to N.W., and a pretty high

island, bearing W. by N. three leagues distant.

The land before us, which we supposed to be the continent of America,

appeared low next the sea; but, inland, it swelled into hills, which

rise, one behind another, to a considerable height. It had a greenish

hue, but seemed destitute of wood, and free from snow. While we lay

at anchor, we found that the flood-tide came from the east, and set to

the west, till between ten and eleven o'clock. From that time till two

the next morning, the stream set to the eastward, and the water fell

three feet. The flood ran both stronger and longer than the ebb;

from which I concluded, that, besides the ebb, there was a westerly

current.

At ten in the morning of the 5th, with the wind at S.W., we ran down,

and anchored between the island and the continent, in seven fathoms

water. Soon after I landed upon the island, accompanied by Mr King and

some others of the officers. I hoped to have had from it a view of

the coast and sea to the westward; but the fog was so thick in that

direction, that the prospect was not more extensive than from

the ship. The coast of the continent seemed to take a turn to the

northward, at a low point, named _Point Rodney_, which bore from the

island N.W. 1/2 W., three or four leagues distant; but the high land,

which took a more northerly direction, was seen a great way farther.

This island, which was named _Sledge Island_, and lies in the latitude

of 64° 30', and in the longitude of 193° 57', is about four leagues in

circuit. The surface of the ground is composed chiefly of large

loose stones, that are, in many places, covered with moss and other

vegetables, of which there were above twenty or thirty different

sorts, and most of them in flower. But I saw neither shrub nor tree,

either upon this island or on the continent. On a small low spot, near

the beach where we landed, was a good deal of wild purslain, pease,

long-wort, &c.; some of which we took on board for the pot. We saw one

fox, a few plovers, and some other small birds; and we met with some

decayed huts that were partly built below ground. People had lately

been on the island; and it is pretty clear, that they frequently visit

it for some purpose or other, as there was a beaten path from the

one end to the other. We found, a little way from the shore where

we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the

island, it seemed to be such a one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make

use of to convey goods from place to place over the ice or snow. It

was ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had a kind of rail-work

on each side, and was shod with bone. The construction of it was

admirable, and all the parts neatly put together; some with wooden

pins, but mostly with thongs or lashings of whalebone, which made me

think it was entirely the workmanship of the natives.

At three o'clock the next morning we weighed, and proceeded to the

north-westward, with a light southerly breeze. We had an opportunity

to observe the sun's meridian altitude for the latitude; and to get

altitudes, both in the forenoon and afternoon, to obtain the longitude

by the time-keeper. As we had but little wind, and variable withal,

we advanced but slowly; and at eight in the evening, finding the ships

settle fast toward the land into shoal water, I anchored in seven

fathoms, about two leagues from the coast. Sledge Island bore S., 51°

E., ten leagues distant, and was seen over the south point of the main

land.

Soon after we had anchored, the weather, which had been misty,

clearing up, we saw high land extending from N., 40° E., to N.,

30° W., apparently disjoined from the coast, under which we were at

anchor, which seemed to trend away N.E. At the same time, an island

was seen bearing N., 81° W., eight or nine leagues distant. It

appeared to have no great extent, and was named _King's Island_. We

rode here till eight o'clock next morning, when we weighed, and stood

to the N.W. The weather clearing up toward the evening, we got sight

of the N.W. land, extending from N. by W. to N.W. by N., distant about

three leagues. We spent the night making short boards, the weather

being misty and rainy, with little wind; and, between four and five

of the morning of the 8th, we had again a sight of the N.W. land; and

soon after, on account of a calm, and a current driving us toward the

shore, we found it necessary to anchor in twelve fathoms water, about

two miles from the coast. Over the western extreme is an elevated

peaked hill, situated in latitude 65° 36', and in longitude 192° 18'.

A breeze at N.E. springing up at eight o'clock, we weighed, and stood

to the S.E., in hopes of finding a passage between the coast on which

we had anchored on the 6th in the evening, and this N.W. land. But we

soon got into seven fathoms water, and discovered low land connecting

the two coasts, and the high land behind it.

Being now satisfied that the whole was a continued coast, I tacked,

and stood away for its N.W. part, and came to an anchor under it in

seventeen fathoms water. The weather at this time was very thick with

rain; but at four next morning it cleared up, so that we could see

the land about us. A high steep rock or island bore W. by S.; another

island to the N. of it; and much larger, bore W. by N.; the peaked

hill above mentioned S.E. by E.; and the point under it, S., 32° E.

Under this hill lies some low land, stretching out towards the N.W.,

the extreme point of which bore N.E. by E., about three miles

distant. Over and beyond it some high land was seen, supposed to be a

continuation of the continent.

This point of land, which I named _Cape Prince of Wales_, is the more

remarkable, by being the western extremity of all America hitherto

known. It is situated in the latitude of 65° 45', and in the longitude

of 191° 45'. The observations by which both were determined, though

made in sight of it, were liable to some small error, on account of

the haziness of the weather. We thought we saw some people upon the

coast; and probably we were not mistaken, as some elevations, like

stages, and others like huts, were seen at the same place. We saw the

same things on the continent within Sledge Island, and on some other

parts of the coast.

It was calm till eight o'clock in the morning, when a faint breeze at

north springing up, we weighed. But we had scarcely got our sails set,

when it began to blow and rain very hard, with misty weather. The wind

and current being in contrary directions, raised such a sea that it

frequently broke into the ship. We had a few minutes sunshine at noon;

and from the observation then obtained, we fixed the above-mentioned

latitude.

Having plied to windward till two in the afternoon, with little

effect, I bore up for the island we had seen to the westward,

proposing to come to an anchor under it till the gale should cease.

But on getting to this land, we found it composed of two small

islands, each not above three or four leagues in circuit, and

consequently they could afford us little shelter. Instead of

anchoring, therefore, we continued to stretch to the westward; and at

eight o'clock, land was seen in that direction, extending from N.N.W.

to W. by S., the nearest part six leagues distant. I stood on till

ten, and then made a board to the eastward, in order to spend the

night.

At day-break in the morning of the 10th, we resumed our course to the

west for the land we had seen the preceding evening. At eleven minutes

after seven, when the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 189° 24', it

extended from S. 72° W. to N. 41° E. Between the S.W. extreme, and a

point which bore W., two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay,

in which we anchored at ten o'clock in the forenoon, about two miles

from the north shore, in ten fathoms water, over a gravelly bottom.

The south part of the bay bore S. 58° W., the north point N. 43° E.,

the bottom of the bay N. 60° W., two or three leagues distant, and.

the two islands we had passed the preceding day, N. 72° E., distant

fourteen leagues.

SECTION IX.

_Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing

the Ships.--Interview with some of them.--Their

Weapons.--Persons.--Ornaments.--Clothing.--Winter and Summer

Habitations.--The Ships cross the Strait, to the Coast of

America.--Progress Northward.--Cape Mulgrave.--Appearance of Fields of

Ice.--Situation of Icy Cape.--The Sea blocked up with Ice.--Sea-horses

killed, and used as Provisions.--These Animals described.--Dimensions

of one of them.--Cape Lisburne.--Fruitless Attempt to get through the

Ice at a Distance from the Coast.--Observations on the Formation of

thin Ice.--Arrival on the Coast of Asia.--Cape North.--The Prosecution

of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year._

As we were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore a

village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have

thrown into confusion or fear. We could plainly see persons running

up the country with burdens upon their backs. At these habitations

I proposed to land; and accordingly went with three armed boats,

accompanied by some of the officers. About thirty or forty men, each

armed with a spontoon, a bow, and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising

ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down

toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to

make us low bows. We returned the civility; but this did not inspire

them with sufficient confidence to wait for our landing, for the

moment we put the boats ashore, they retired. I followed them alone,

without any thing in my hand; and by signs and gestures prevailed on

them to stop, and to receive some trifling presents. In return for

these they gave me two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. I

cannot say whether they or I made the first present; for it appeared

to me that they had brought down with them these things for this very

purpose, and that they would have given them to me, even though I had

made no return.

They seemed very fearful and cautious, expressing their desire by

signs, that no more of our people should be permitted to come up.

On my laying my hand on the shoulder of one of them, he started back

several paces. In proportion as I advanced, they retreated backward,

always in the attitude of being ready to make use of their spears,

while those on the rising ground stood ready to support them with

their arrows. Insensibly, myself and two or three of my companions,

got in amongst them. A few beads distributed to those about us, soon

created a kind of confidence, so that they were not alarmed when a

few more of our people joined us, and, by degrees, a sort of traffic

between us commenced. In exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and

other articles, they gave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows.

But nothing that we had to offer could induce them to part with a

spear or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never once

quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid

theirs down, while they gave us a song and a dance. And even then,

they placed them in such a manner, that they could lay hold of them in

an instant, and, for their security, they desired us to sit down.

The arrows were pointed either with bone or stone, but very few of

them had barbs, and some had a round blunt point. What use these

may be applied to I cannot say, unless it be to kill small animals,

without damaging the skin. The bows were such as we had seen on the

American coast, and like those that were used by the Esquimaux.

The spears, or spontoons, were of iron or steel; and of European

or Asiatic workmanship, in which no little pains had been taken to

ornament them with carving, and inlayings of brass, and of a white

metal. Those who stood ready with bows and arrows in their hands,

had the spear slung over their right shoulder by a leathern strap. A

leathern quiver, slung over their left shoulder, contained arrows;

and some of these quivers were extremely beautiful, being made of red

leather, on which was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments.

Several other things, and in particular their clothing, shewed that

they were possessed of a degree of ingenuity, far surpassing what one

could expect to find amongst so northern a people. All the Americans

we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low of

stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek-bones. The people we

now were amongst, far from resembling them, had long visages, and were

stout and well-made. In short, they appeared to be a quite different

nation. We saw neither women nor children of either sex, nor any

aged, except one man, who was bald-headed, and he was the only one who

carried no arms. The others seemed to be picked men, and rather under

than above the middle age. The old man had a black mark across his

face, which I did not see in any others. All of them had their ears

bored, and some had glass beads hanging to them. These were the only

fixed ornaments we saw about them, for they wear none to the lips.

This is another thing in which they differ from the Americans we had

lately seen.

Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair

of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of leather, or of the skins

of deer, dogs, seals, &c. and extremely well dressed, some with the

hair or fur on, but others without it. The caps were made to fit the

head very close; and besides these caps, which most of them wore,

we got from them some hoods, made of skins of dogs, that were large

enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be

black; but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off,

and none of them wore any beard. Of the few articles which they got

from us, knives and tobacco were what they valued most.

We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter

habitations. The latter are exactly like a vault, the floor of which

is sunk a little below the surface of the earth. One of them which I

examined was of an oval form, about twenty feet long, and twelve or

more high. The framing was composed of wood and the ribs of whales,

disposed in a judicious manner, and bound together with smaller

materials of the same sort. Over this framing is laid a covering of

strong coarse grass, and that again is covered with earth, so that,

on the outside, the house looks like a little hillock, supported by a

wall of stone, three or four feet high, which is built round the two

sides and one end. At the other end, the earth is raised sloping, to

walk up to the entrance, which is by a hole in the top of the roof

over that end. The floor was boarded, and under it a kind of cellar,

in which I saw nothing but water. And at the end of each house was

a vaulted room, which I took to be a store-room. These store-rooms

communicated with the house, by a dark passage, and with the open air,

by a hole in the roof, which was even with the ground one walked upon;

but they cannot be said to be wholly under ground, for one end reached

to the edge of the hill, along which they were made, and which was

built up with stone. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box, or tower,

composed of the large bones of large fish.

The summer huts were pretty large and circular, being brought to a

point at the top. The framing was of slight poles and bones, covered

with the skins of sea-animals. I examined the inside of one. There was

a fire-place just within the door, where lay a few wooden vessels, all

very dirty. Their bed-places were close to the side, and took up about

half the circuit. Some privacy seemed to be observed; for there

were several partitions made with skins. The bed and bedding were of

deer-skins, and most of them were dry and clean.

About the habitations were erected several stages, ten or twelve feet

high, such as we had observed on some parts of the American coast.

They were wholly composed of bones, and seemed intended for drying

their fish and skins, which were thus placed beyond the reach of their

dogs, of which they had a great many. These dogs are of the fox kind,

rather large, and of different colours, with long soft hair like

wool. They are, probably, used in drawing their sledges in winter. For

sledges they have, as I saw a good many laid up in one of the winter

huts. It is also not improbable, that dogs may constitute a part of

their food. Several lay dead that had been killed that morning.

The canoes of these people are of the same sort with those of the

Northern Americans, some, both of the large and of the small ones,

being seen lying in a creek under the village.

By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-animals, it appeared that

the sea supplied them with the greatest part of their subsistence. The

country appeared to be exceedingly barren, yielding neither tree nor

shrub, that we could see. At some distance westward, we observed a

ridge of mountains covered with snow that had lately fallen.

At first, we supposed this land to be a part of the island of

Alaschka, laid down in Mr Stæhlin's map before-mentioned. But from the

figure of the coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America,

and from the longitude, we soon began to think that it was, more

probably, the country of the Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of

Asia, explored by Beering in 1728. But to have admitted this, without

farther examination, I must have pronounced Mr Stæhlin's map, and

his account of the new northern archipelago, to be either exceedingly

erroneous, even in latitude, or else to be a mere fiction; a judgment

which I had no right to pass upon a publication so respectably

vouched, without producing the clearest proofs.[1]

[Footnote 1: If the account of Beering's voyage had been accurately

given, Captain Cook need not have hesitated about the situation

or nature of the place he now visited. Captain Billings afterwards

anchored in the same bay on his voyage to complete the discoveries of

Cook, as related in Mr Coxe's work. Still, however, our acquaintance

with this part of Asia is very imperfect. Captain Cook, it may be

proper to remark here, had the merit of ascertaining the vicinity of

the two continents, which had been but vaguely conjectured before his

time.--E.]

After a stay of between two and three hours with these people, we

returned to our ships, and soon after, the wind veering to the south,

we weighed anchor, stood out of the bay, and steered to the N.E.,

between the coast and the two islands. The next day, at noon, the

former extended from S. 80° W. to N. 84° W., the latter bore S. 40°

W., and the peaked mountain, over Cape Prince of Wales, bore S. 36°

E., with land extending from it as far as S. 75° E. The latitude of

the ship was 66° 5-1/4', the longitude 191° 19', our depth of water

twenty-eight fathoms, and our position nearly in the middle of the

channel between the two coasts, each being seven leagues distant.

From this station we steered east, in order to get nearer the American

coast. In this course the water shoaled gradually, and there being

little wind, and all our endeavours to increase our depth tailing, I

was obliged at last to drop anchor in six fathoms, the only remedy we

had left to prevent the ships driving into less. The nearest part of

the western land bore W., twelve leagues distant, the peaked hill

over Cape Prince of Wales, S. 16° W., and the northernmost part of

the American continent in sight, E.S.E., the nearest part about four

leagues distant. After we had anchored, I sent a boat to sound, and

the water was found to shoal gradually toward the land. While we lay

at anchor, which was from six to nine in the evening, we found little

or no current, nor could we perceive that the water either rose or

fell.

A breeze of wind springing up at N., we weighed, and stood to the

westward, which course soon brought us into deep water, and, during

the 12th, we plied to the N., both coasts being in sight, but we kept

nearest to that of America.

At four in the afternoon of the 13th, a breeze springing up at S., I

steered N.E. by N., till four o'clock next morning, when, seeing no

land, we directed our course E. by N., and between nine and ten, land,

supposed to be a continuation of the continent, appeared. It extended

from E. by S. to E. by N., and soon after we saw more land, bearing

N. by E. Coming pretty suddenly into thirteen fathoms water, at two

in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we stood in again

for the land, which was seen soon after, extending from N. to S.E.,

the nearest part three or four leagues distant. The coast here forms a

point, named _Point Mulgrave_, which lies in the latitude of 67° 45',

and in the longitude of 194° 51'. The land appeared very low next the

sea; but, a little back, it rises into hills of a moderate height. The

whole was free from snow, and, to appearance, destitute of wood. I now

tacked, and bore away N.W. by W., but soon after, thick weather with

rain coming on, and the wind increasing, I hauled more to the west.

Next morning, at two o'clock, the wind veered to S.W. by S.; and blew

a strong gale, which abated at noon; and the sun shining out, we found

ourselves, by observation, in the latitude of 68° 18'. I now steered

N.E., till six o'clock the next morning, when I steered two points

more easterly. In this run, we met with several sea-horses and

flights of birds, some like sand-larks, and others no bigger than

hedge-sparrows. Some shags were also seen, so that we judged ourselves

to be not far from land. But as we had a thick fog, we could not

expect to see any; and, as the wind blew strong, it was not prudent

to continue a course which was most likely to bring us to it. From the

noon of this day, to six o'clock in the morning of the following, I

steered E. by N., which course brought us into sixteen fathoms water.

I now steered N.E. by E., thinking, by this course, to deepen our

water. But, in the space of six leagues, it shoaled to eleven fathoms,

which made me think it proper to haul close to the wind that now

blew at west. Toward noon, both sun and moon were seen clearly at

intervals, and we got some flying observations for the longitude,

which, reduced to noon, when the latitude was 70° 33', gave 197° 41'.

The time-keeper, for the same time, gave 198°, and the variation was

35° 1' 22" E. We had, afterward, reason to believe, that the observed

longitude was within a very few miles of the truth.

Some time before noon, we perceived a brightness in the northern

horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink.

It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable we

should meet with ice so soon. And yet the sharpness of the air, and

gloominess of the weather, for two or three days past, seemed to

indicate some sudden change. About an hour after, the sight of a

large field of ice, left us no longer in doubt about the cause of the

brightness of the horizon. At half-past two, we tacked, close to

the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the

latitude of 70° 41', not being able to stand on any farther. For the

ice was quite impenetrable, and extended from W. by N. to E. by N. as

far as the eye could reach. Here were abundance of sea-horses, some in

the water, but far more upon the ice. I had thoughts of hoisting out

the boats to kill some, but the wind freshening, I gave up the design,

and continued to ply to the southward, or rather to the westward, for

the wind came from that quarter.

We gained nothing; for, on the 18th at noon, our latitude was 70° 44',

and we were near five leagues farther to the eastward. We were, at

this time, close to the edge of the ice, which was as compact as a

wall, and seemed to be ten or twelve feet high at least. But, farther

north, it appeared much higher. Its surface was extremely rugged; and

here and there, we saw upon it pools of water.

We now stood to the southward; and, after running six leagues, shoaled

the water to seven fathoms, but it soon deepened to nine fathoms. At

this time, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, we

saw land extending from S. to S.E. by E., about three or four miles

distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered

with ice, for which reason it obtained the name of _Icy Cape_. Its

latitude is 70° 29', and its longitude 198° 20'. The other extreme of

the land was lost in the horizon, so that there can be no doubt of its

being a continuation of the American continent. The Discovery being

about a mile astern, and to leeward, found less water than we did,

and tacking on that account, I was obliged to tack also, to prevent

separation.

Our situation was now more and more critical. We were in shoal water,

upon a lee-shore, and the main body of the ice to windward, driving

down upon us. It was evident, that if we remained much longer between

it and the land, it would force us ashore, unless it should happen

to take the ground before us. It seemed nearly to join the land to

leeward; and the only direction that was open, was to the S.W. After

making a short board to the northward, I made the signal for the

Discovery to tack, and tacked myself at the same time. The wind proved

rather favourable, so that we lay up S.W. and S.W. by W.

At eight in the morning of the 19th, the wind veering back to W., I

tacked to the northward, and, at noon, the latitude was 70° 6', and

the longitude 195° 42'. In this situation, we had a good deal of

drift-ice about us; and the main ice was about two leagues to the N.

At half-past one, we got in with the edge of it. It was not so compact

as that which we had seen to the northward; but it was too close, and

in too large pieces, to attempt forcing the ships through it. On the

ice lay a prodigious number of sea-horses; and, as we were in want of

fresh provisions, the boats from each ship were sent to get some.

By seven o'clock in the evening, we had received, on board the

Resolution, nine of these animals, which, till now, we had supposed

to be sea-cows; so that we were not a little disappointed, especially

some of the seamen, who, for the novelty of the thing, had been

feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor would they have been

disappointed now, nor have known the difference, if we had not

happened to have one or two on board, who had been in Greenland, and

declared what animals these were, and that no one ever eat of them.

But, notwithstanding this, we lived upon them as long as they lasted;

and there were few on board who did not prefer them to our salt meat.

The fat; at first, is as sweet as marrow; but in a few days it grows

rancid, unless it be salted, in which state it will keep much longer.

The lean flesh is coarse, black, and has rather a strong taste; and

the heart is nearly as well tasted as that of a bullock. The fat, when

melted, yields a good deal of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and

their hides, which are very thick, were very useful about our rigging.

The teeth or tusks of most of them were, at this time, very small;

even some of the largest and oldest of these animals had them not

exceeding six inches in length. From this we concluded, that they had

lately shed their old teeth.

They lie, in herds of many hundreds, upon the ice, huddling one over

the other like swine, and roar or bray very loud, so that, in the

night or in foggy weather, they gave us notice of the vicinity of the

ice before we could see it. We never found the whole herd asleep, some

being always upon the watch. These, on the approach of the boat,

would wake those next to them, and the alarm being thus gradually

communicated, the whole herd would be awake presently. But they were

seldom in a hurry to get away, till after they had once been fired at.

Then they would tumble one over the other, into the sea, in the utmost

confusion. And if we did not, at the first discharge, kill those we

fired at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They

did not appear to us to be that dangerous animal some authors

have described, not even when attacked. They are rather more so to

appearance than in reality. Vast numbers of them would follow, and

come close up to the boats. But the flash of a musket in the pan,

or even the bare pointing of one at them, would send them down in an

instant. The female will defend the young one to the very last, and

at the expense of her own life, whether in the water, or upon the ice.

Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she be dead; so that, if

you kill one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water,

holds the young one between her fore-fins.

Mr Pennant, in his _Synopsis Quadr._ p. 835,[2] has given a very good

description of this animal under the name of _Arctic Walrus_, but I

have no where seen a good drawing of one. Why they should be called

sea-horses is hard to say, unless the word be a corruption of the

Russian name _Morse_, for they have not the least resemblance of a

horse. This is, without doubt, the same animal that is found in the

Gulf of St Laurence, and there called Sea-cow. It is certainly more

like a cow than a horse; but this likeness consists in nothing but the

snout. In short, it is an animal like a seal, but incomparably larger.

The dimensions and weight of one, which was none of the largest, were

as follows:--

Feet. Inches.

Length from the snout to the tail 9 4

Length of the neck, from the snout to the

shoulder-bone 2 6

Height of the shoulder 5 0

Length of the fins { Fore 2 4

{ Hind 2 6

Breadth of the fins { Fore 1 2-1/2

{ Hind 2 0

Snout { Breadth 0 5-1/2

{ Depth 1 3

Circumference of the neck close to the ears 2 7

Circumference of the body at the shoulder 7 10

Circumference near the hind fins 5 6

From the snout to the eyes 0 7

lbs.

Weight of the carcase, without

the head, skin, or entrails 854

Head 41-1/2

Skin 205

[Footnote 2: Mr Pennant, since Captain Cook wrote this, has described

this animal in a work which he calls Arctic Zoology. We refer the

reader to N° 72. of that work.--D.]

I could not find out what these animals feed upon. There was nothing

in the maws of those we killed.

It is worth observing, that for some days before this date, we had

frequently seen flocks of ducks flying to the southward. They were of

two sorts, the one much larger than the other, the largest were of

a brown colour; and, of the small sort, either the duck or drake was

black and white, and the other brown. Some said they saw geese also.

Does not this indicate that there must be land to the north, where

these birds find shelter, in the proper season, to breed, and from

whence they were now returning to a warmer climate?

By the time that we had got our sea-horses on board, we were, in a

manner, surrounded with the ice, and had no way left to clear it, but

by standing to the southward, which was done till three o'clock next

morning, with a gentle breeze westerly, and for the most part, thick,

foggy weather. The soundings were from twelve to fifteen fathoms. We

then tacked, and stood to the north till ten o'clock, when the wind

veering to the northward, we directed our course to the S.W. and W. At

two in the afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, along the edge of

which we kept, being partly directed by the roaring of the sea-horses,

for we had a very thick fog. Thus we continued sailing till near

midnight, when we got in amongst the loose ice, and heard the surge of

the sea upon the main ice.

The fog being very thick, and the wind easterly, I now hauled to the

southward; and, at ten o'clock the next morning, the fog clearing

away, we saw the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to

E. by S., and at noon, from S.W. 1/2 S. to E., the nearest part five

leagues distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 69° 32',

and in the longitude of 195° 48'; and as the main ice was at no great

distance from us, it is evident that it now covered a part of the sea,

which, but a few days before, had been clear, and that it extended

farther to the S., than where we first fell in with it. It must not be

understood, that I supposed any part of this ice which we had seen

to be fixed; on the contrary, I am well assured, that the whole was a

moveable mass.

Having but little wind in the afternoon, I sent the master in a boat,

to try if there was any current, but he found none. I continued to

steer in for the American land, until eight o'clock, in order to get a

nearer view of it, and to look for a harbour; but seeing nothing like

one, I stood again to the N., with a light breeze westerly. At this

time, the coast, extended from S.W. to E., the nearest part four or

five leagues distant. The southern extreme seemed to form a point,

which was named _Cape Lisburne_. It lies in the latitude of 69° 5',

and in the longitude of 194° 42', and appeared to be pretty high land,

even down to the sea. But there may be low land under it, which we

might not see, being not less than ten leagues distant from it. Every

where else, as we advanced northward, we had found a low coast, from

which the land rises to a middle height. The coast now before us was

without snow, except in one or two places, and had a greenish hue. But

we could not perceive any wood upon it.

On the 22d, the wind was southerly, and the weather mostly foggy,

with some intervals of sunshine. At eight in the evening it fell calm,

which continued till midnight, when we heard the surge of the sea

against the ice, and had several loose pieces about us. A light breeze

now sprung up at N.E., and as the fog was very thick, I steered to

the southward to clear the ice. At eight o'clock next morning, the fog

dispersed, and I hauled to the westward. For, finding that I could not

get to the north near the coast, on account of the ice, I resolved to

try what could be done at a distance from it; and as the wind seemed

to be settled at north, I thought it a good opportunity.

As we advanced to the west, the water deepened gradually to

twenty-eight fathoms, which was the most we had. With the northerly

wind the air was raw, sharp, and cold, and we had fogs, sunshine,

showers of snow and sleet, by turns. At ten in the morning of the

26th, we fell in with the ice. At noon, it extended from N.W. to E.

by N., and appeared to be thick and compact. At this time, we were, by

observation, in the latitude 69° 36', and in the longitude of 184°; so

that it now appeared we had no better prospect of getting to the north

here, than nearer the shore.

I continued to stand to the westward, till five in the afternoon, when

we were in a manner embayed by the ice, which appeared high, and very

close in the N.W. and N.E. quarters, with a great deal of loose ice

about the edge of the main field. At this time we had baffling light

winds, but it soon fixed at S., and increased to a fresh gale,

with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretched to the

eastward, this being the only direction in which the sea was clear of

ice.

At four in the morning of the 27th, we tacked and stood to the W.,

and, at seven in the evening, we were close in with the edge of the

ice, which lay E.N.E., and W.S.W., as far each way as the eye could

reach. Having but little wind, I went with the boats to examine the

state of the ice. I found it consisting of loose pieces, of various

extent, and so close together, that I could hardly enter the outer

edge with a boat; and it was as impossible for the ships to enter it,

as if it had been so many rocks. I took particular notice, that it was

all pure transparent ice, except the upper surface, which was a little

porous. It appeared to be entirely composed of frozen snow, and to

have been all formed at sea. For setting aside the improbability, or

rather impossibility, of such huge masses floating out of rivers, in

which there is hardly water for a boat, none of the productions of

the land were found incorporated, or fixed in it, which must have

unavoidably been the case, had it been formed in rivers, either great

or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer edge of the field,

were from forty or fifty yards in extent, to four or five; and I

judged, that the larger pieces reached thirty feet, or more, under

the surface of the water. It also appeared to me very improbable, that

this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone.

I should suppose it rather to have been the production of a great many

winters. Nor was it less improbable, according to my judgment, that

the little that remained of the summer could destroy the tenth part of

what now subsisted of this mass, for the sun had already exerted upon

it the full influence of his rays. Indeed I am of opinion, that the

sun contributes very little toward reducing these great masses. For

although that luminary is a considerable while above the horizon, it

seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and often is

not seen for several days in succession. It is the wind, or rather the

waves raised by the wind, that brings down the bulk of these enormous

masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and

washing away those parts that lie exposed to the surge of the sea.

This was evident, from our observing, that the upper surface of many

pieces had been partly washed away, while the base or under part

remained firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above

water, exactly like a shoal round an elevated rock. We measured the

depth of water upon one, and found it to be fifteen feet, so that the

ships might have sailed over it. If I had not measured this depth,

I would not have believed that there was a sufficient weight of ice

above the surface to have sunk the other so much below it. Thus it

may happen, that more ice is destroyed in one stormy season, than is

formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation is prevented.

But that there is always a remaining store, every one who has been

upon the spot will conclude, and none but closet-studying philosophers

will dispute.[3]

[Footnote 3: These observations of Captain Cook, in addition to some

remarks which were formerly given on the subject, seem conclusive

against the supposition of such large masses of ice being the product

of rivers, as has not unfrequently been maintained. They may, however,

have proceeded from land in another way, being occasioned by the

consolidation of snow into such masses as were of sufficient weight

to separate from the declivities where they had been formed. This

undoubtedly may sometimes happen; but the explanation of their origin

formerly offered, seems much more entitled to consideration, as a

generally operating cause. The last remark which Captain Cook makes,

appears to have been levelled at some would-be-wise heads, who had

hazarded reflections about the possibility of some time or other

finding an open sea in high latitudes. But, however illiberally

stated, it is in all probability just, though for a reason unknown to

Cook. The chemical reader will perceive we allude to the circumstance

of the absorption of heat that takes places during the liquefaction

of ice, in consequence of which the temperature of the surrounding

atmosphere is reduced so much, as to prevent any more of the ice being

dissolved. A contrary operation, as is now well known, takes place

during the congelation of water, and heat is evolved. Thus then the

cold of winter is moderated. And so, on the whole, the temperature

is kept more uniform, than, without such adjustment, would be the

case.--E.]

A thick fog, which came on while I was thus employed with the boats,

hastened me aboard, rather sooner than I could have wished, with one

sea-horse to each ship. We had killed more, but could not wait to

bring them with us. The number of these animals, on all the ice that

we had seen, is almost incredible. We spent the night standing off and

on amongst the drift ice; and at nine o'clock the next morning,

the fog having partly dispersed, boats from each ship were sent for

sea-horses. For, by this time, our people began to relish them, and

those we had procured before were all consumed. At noon, our latitude

was 69° 17', our longitude 183°, the variation by the morning

azimuths, 25° 56' E., and the depth of water twenty-five fathoms. At

two o'clock, having got on board as much marine beef as was thought

necessary, and the wind freshening at S.S.E., we took on board the

boats, and stretched to the S.W. But not being able to weather the ice

upon this tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the east,

till eight o'clock, then resumed our course to the S.W., and before

midnight were obliged to tack again, on account of the ice. Soon

after, the wind shifted to the N.W., blowing a stiff gale, and we

stretched to the S.W., close hauled.

In the morning of the 29th, we saw the main ice to the northward, and

not long after, land bearing S.W. by W. Presently after this, more

land shewed itself, bearing W. It shewed itself in two hills like

islands, but afterward the whole appeared connected. As we approached

the land, the depth of water decreased very fast; so that at noon,

when we tacked, we had only eight fathoms, being three miles from the

coast, which extended from S., 30° E., to N., 60° W. This last extreme

terminated in a bluff point, being one of the hills above mentioned.

The weather at this time was very hazy, with drizzling rain; but

soon after it cleared, especially to the southward, westward, and

northward. This enabled us to have a pretty good view of the coast,

which, in every respect, is like the opposite one of America; that

is, low land next the sea, with elevated land farther back. It was

perfectly destitute of wood, and even snow; but was, probably, covered

with a mossy substance, that gave it a brownish cast. In the low

ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake,

extending to the S.E., farther than we could see. As we stood off, the

westernmost of the two hills before mentioned came open off the bluff

point, in the direction of N.W. It had the appearance of being an

island; but it might be joined to the other by low land, though we did

not see it. And if so, there is a two-fold point, with a bay between

them. This point, which is steep and rocky, was named _Cape North_.

Its situation is nearly in the latitude of 68° 56', and in the

longitude of 180° 51'. The coast beyond it must take a very westerly

direction; for we could see no land to the northward of it, though the

horizon was there pretty clear. Being desirous of seeing more of

the coast to the westward, we tacked again at two o'clock in the

afternoon, thinking we could weather Cape North. But finding we could

not, the wind freshening, a thick fog coming on, with much snow, and

being fearful of the ice coming down upon us, I gave up the design I

had formed of plying to the westward, and stood off shore again.

The season was now so far advanced, and the time when the frost is

expected to set in so near at hand, that I did not think it consistent

with prudence, to make any farther attempts to find a passage into the

Atlantic this year, in any direction, so little was the prospect of

succeeding. My attention was now directed toward finding out some

place where we might supply ourselves with wood and water; and the

object uppermost in my thoughts was, how I should spend the winter, so

as to make some improvements in geography and navigation, and, at the

same time, be in a condition to return to the north, in farther search

of a passage, the ensuing summer.

SECTION X.

_Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia.--Views of the

Country.--Burner's Island.--Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern Limit

of Beering's Voyage.--Pass the East Cape of Asia.--Description and

Situation of it.--Observations on Muller.--The Tschutski.--Bay

of Saint Laurence.--Two other Bays, and Habitations of the

Natives.--Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi.--Beering's Position of this

Coast accurate.--Island of Saint Laurence.--Pass to the

American Coast.--Cape Darby.--Bald Head.--Cape Denbigh, on a

Peninsula.--Besborough Island.--Wood and Water procured.--Visits

from the Natives.--Their Persons and Habitations.--Produce of the

Country.--Marks that the Peninsula had formerly been surrounded by

the Sea.--Lieutenant King's Report.--Norton Sound.--Lunar Observations

there.--Stæhlin's Map proved to be erroneous,--Plan of future

Operations._

After having stood off till we got into eighteen fathoms water, I

bore up to the eastward, along the coast, which, by this time; it was

pretty certain, could only be the continent of Asia. As the wind

blew fresh, with a very heavy fall of snow, and a thick mist, it was

necessary to proceed with great caution. I therefore brought-to for a

few hours in the night.

At day-break, on the 30th, we made sail, and steered such a course as

I thought would bring us in with the land, being in a great measure

guided by the lead. For the weather was as thick as ever, and it

snowed incessantly. At ten, we got sight of the coast, bearing S.W.,

four miles distant; and presently after, having shoaled the water to

seven fathoms, we hauled off. At this time, a very low point, or spit,

bore S.S.W., two or three miles distant; to the E. of which there

appeared to be a narrow channel, leading into some water that we saw

over the point. Probably the lake before mentioned communicates here

with the sea.

At noon, the mist dispersing for a short interval, we had a tolerably

good view of the coast, which extended from S.E. to N.W. by W. Some

parts appeared higher than others; but in general it was very low,

with high land farther up the country. The whole was now covered with

snow, which had lately fallen quite down to the sea. I continued to

range along the coast at two leagues distance, till ten at night,

when we hauled off; but we resumed our course next morning, soon after

day-break, when we got sight of the coast again, extending from W.

to S.E. by S. At eight, the eastern part bore S., and proved to be an

island, which at noon bore S.W. 1/2 S., four or five miles distant. It

is about four or five miles in circuit, of a middling height, with a

steep, rocky coast, situated about three leagues from the main, in

the latitude of 67° 45', and distinguished in the chart by the name of

_Burney's Island_.

The inland country hereabout is full of hills, some of which are of

a considerable height. The land was covered with snow, except a few

spots upon the sea-coast, which still continued low, but less so than

farther westward. For the two preceding days, the mean height of the

mercury in the thermometer had been very little above the freezing

point, and often below it; so that the water in the vessels upon the

deck was frequently covered with a sheet of ice.

I continued to steer S.S.E., nearly in the direction of the coast,

till five in the afternoon, when land was seen bearing S., 50° E.,

which we presently found to be a continuation of the coast, and hauled

up for it. Being abreast of the eastern land at ten at night, and in

doubts of weathering it, we tacked, and made a board to the westward,

till past one the next morning, when we stood again to the east, and

found that it was as much as we could do to keep our distance from the

coast, the wind being exceedingly unsettled, varying continually

from N. to N.E. At half an hour past eight, the eastern extreme above

mentioned bore S. by E., six or seven miles distant. At the same time,

a head-land appeared in sight, bearing E. by S., 1/2 S.; and, soon

after, we could trace the whole coast lying between them, and a small

island at some distance from it.

The coast seemed to form several rocky points, connected by a low

shore, without the least appearance of a harbour. At some distance

from the sea, the low land appeared to swell into a number of hills.

The highest of these were covered with snow, and, in other respects,

the whole country seemed naked. At seven in the evening, two points of

land, at some distance beyond the eastern head, opened off it, in the

direction of S., 37° E. I was now well assured, of what I had believed

before, that this was the country of the Tschutski, or the N.E. coast

of Asia; and that thus far Beering proceeded in 1728; that is, to this

head, which Muller says is called _Serdze Kamen_, on account of a

rock upon it, shaped like a heart. But I conceive, that Mr Muller's

knowledge of the geography of these parts is very imperfect. There are

many elevated rocks upon this cape, and possibly some one or other of

them may have the shape or a heart. It is a pretty lofty promontory,

with a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and lies in the latitude of

67° 3', and in the longitude of 188° 11'. To the eastward of it, the

coast is high and bold; but to the westward it is low, and trends

N.N.W., and N.W. by W., which is nearly its direction all the way

to Cape North. The soundings are every where the same at the same

distance from the shore, which is also the case on the opposite

shore of America. The greatest depth we found in ranging along it

was twenty-three fathoms. And, in the night, or in foggy weather, the

soundings are no bad guide in sailing along either of these shores.

At eight o'clock in the morning of the 2d, the most advanced land

to the S.E., bore S., 25° E., and from this point of view had the

appearance of being an island. But the thick snow showers, which

succeeded one another pretty, fast, and settled upon the land, hid

great part of the coast at this time from our sight. Soon after, the

sun, whose face we had not seen for near five days, broke out at the

intervals between the showers, and, in some measure, freed the coast

from the fog, so that we had a sight of it, and found the whole to be

connected. The wind still continued at north, the air was cold, and

the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 35°, and was sometimes

as low as 30°. At noon the observed latitude was 66° 37', Cape Serdze

Kamen bore N., 52° W., thirteen leagues distant; the southernmost

point of land in sight S., 41° E., the nearest part of the coast two

leagues distant, and our depth of water twenty-two fathoms.

We had now fair weather and sunshine, and as we ranged along

the coast, at the distance of four miles, we saw several of the

inhabitants, and some of their habitations, which looked like little

hillocks of earth. In the evening we passed the _Eastern Cape_, or the

point above mentioned, from which the coast changes its direction, and

trends S.W. It is the same point of land which we had passed on the

11th of August. They who believed implicitly in Mr Stæhlin's map, then

thought it the east point of his island Alaschka; but we had, by

this time, satisfied ourselves, that it is no other than the eastern

promontory of Asia, and probably the proper _Tschukotskoi Noss_,

though the promontory, to which Beering gave that name, is farther to

the S.W.

Though Mr Muller, in his map of the Russian Discoveries, places the

Tschukotskoi Noss nearly in 75° of latitude, and extends it somewhat

to the eastward of this cape, it appears to me, that he had no

good authority for so doing. Indeed, his own accounts, or rather

Deshneff's,[1] of the distance between the Noss, and the river Anadir,

cannot be reconciled with this very northerly position. But as I hope

to visit these parts again, I shall leave the discussion of this point

till then. In the mean time, I must conclude, as Beering did before

me, that this is the most eastern point of Asia. It is a peninsula of

considerable height, joined to the continent by a very low, and, to

appearance, narrow neck of land. It shews a steep rocky clift next the

sea, and off the very point are some rocks like spires. It is situated

in the latitude of 66° 6', and in the longitude of 190° 22', and is

distant from Cape Prince of Wales, on the American coast, thirteen

leagues, in the direction of N., 53° W. The land about this promontory

is composed of hills and vallies. The former terminate at the sea in

steep rocky points, and the latter in low shores. The hills seemed to

be naked rocks; but the vallies had a greenish hue, but destitute of

tree or shrub.[2]

[Footnote 1: Avec le vent le plus favorable, on peut aller par mer de

cette pointe (des Tschukotschis), jusqu' à l'Anadir en trois fois

24 heures; et par terre le chemin ne peut guère etre plus

long.--_Muller_, p. 13.--D.]

[Footnote 2: Deshnef's voyage in 1648, is considered the only one

previous to this of Cook, in which the north-eastern extremity of Asia

was doubled. Some account of it is given in Coxe's work. Others have

pretended to this achievement, but there is not evidence to warrant

belief of the fact. Beering, indeed, in 1728, got as far north as

67° 18'; but as he immediately returned, and made no progress on the

Asiatic coast, he is not entitled to this merit, although the extent

of his discovery, as to the separation of the two continents, has

procured him the honour of giving a name to the Strait which divides

them.--E.]

After passing the cape, I steered S.W. 1/2 W., for the northern point

of St Laurence Bay, in which we had anchored on the 10th of last

month. We reached it by eight o'clock next morning, and saw some of

the inhabitants at the place where I had seen them before, as well as

several others on the opposite side of the bay. None of them, however,

attempted to come off to us, which seemed a little extraordinary,

as the weather was favourable enough; and those whom we had lately

visited had no reason, that I know of, to dislike our company. These

people must be the Tschutski; a nation that, at the time Mr Muller

wrote, the Russians had not been able to conquer. And, from the whole

of their conduct with us, it appears that they have not, as yet,

brought them under subjection; though it is obvious that they must

have a trade with the Russians, either directly, or by means of some

neighbouring nation, as we cannot otherwise account for their being in

possession of the spontoons, in particular, of which we took notice.

This bay of St Laurence[3] is, at least, five leagues broad at the

entrance, and four leagues deep, narrowing towards the bottom,

where it appeared to be tolerably well sheltered from the sea-winds,

provided there be a sufficient depth of water for ships. I did not

wait to examine it, although I was very desirous of finding an harbour

in those parts, to which I might resort next spring. But I wanted one

where wood might be got, and I knew that none was to be found here.

From the south point of this bay, which lies in the latitude of 65°

30', the coast trends W. by S., for about nine leagues, and there

forms a deep bay, or river, or else the land there is so low that we

could not see it.

[Footnote 3: Captain Cook gives it this name, having anchored in it

on St Laurence's day, August 10. It is remarkable, that Beering sailed

past this very place on the 10th of August 1728; on which account, the

neighbouring island was named by him after the same Saint.--D.

But Dr Douglas seems to err in this observation. At least, according

to Mr Coxe's account, it would appear, that it was the island of St

Laurence, which we shall immediately find Captain Cook afterwards fell

in with, and not the bay so named, which Beering passed on the 10th

August. This, however, is a trivial correction, if even the imperfect

relation we possess of Beering's progress could prove it to be

one.--E.]

At one in the afternoon, in the direction of our course, we saw what

was first taken for a rock; but it proved to be a dead whale, which

some natives of the Asiatic coast had killed, and were towing ashore.

They seemed to conceal themselves behind the fish to avoid being seen

by us. This was unnecessary, for we pursued our course, without taking

any notice of them.

At day-break on the 4th, I hauled to the N.W., in order to get a

nearer view of the inlet seen the preceding day; but the wind, soon

after, veering to that direction, I gave up the design; and steered to

the southward along the coast, past two bays, each about two leagues

deep. The northernmost lies before a hill, which is remarkable by

being rounder than any other upon the coast. And there is an island

lying before the other. It may be doubted, whether there be a

sufficient depth for ships in either of these bays, as we always met

with shoal water, when we edged in for the shore. The country here is

exceedingly hilly and naked. In several places on the low ground, next

the sea, were the dwellings of the natives; and near all of them were

erected stages of bones, such as before described. These may be seen

at a great distance, on account of their whiteness.

At noon the latitude was 64° 31', and the longitude 188° 45'; the

southernmost point of the main in sight bore S., 48° W., and the

nearest shore about three or four leagues distant. By this time, the

wind had veered again to the N., and blew a gentle breeze. The weather

was clear, and the air cold. I did not follow the direction of the

coast, as I found that it look a westerly direction toward the Gulf

of Anadir, into which I had no inducement to go, but steered to the

southward, in order to get a sight of the island of St Laurence,

discovered by Beering, which accordingly shewed itself, and at eight

o'clock in the evening, it bore S., 20° E., by estimation, eleven

leagues distant. At the same time, the southernmost point of the main

land bore S., 83° W., distant twelve leagues. I take this to be

the point which Beering calls the east point of Suchotski, or _Cape

Tschukotskoi_; a name which he gave it, and with propriety, because it

was from this part of the coast that the natives came off to him, who

called themselves of the nation of Tschutski. I make its latitude to

be 64° 13', and its longitude 186° 36'.

In justice to the memory of Beering, I must say, that he has

delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude and longitude

of the points better than could be expected from the methods he had

to go by. This judgment is not formed from Mr Muller's account of

the voyage, or the chart prefixed to his book; but from Dr Campbell's

account of it in his edition of Harris's collection, and a map thereto

annexed, which is both more circumstantial and accurate than that of

Mr Muller.

The more I was convinced of my being now upon the coast of Asia, the

more I was at a loss to reconcile Mr Stæhlin's map of the New Northern

Archipelago with my observations; and I had no way to account for the

great difference, but by supposing, that I had mistaken some part of

what he calls the island of Alaschka for the American continent, and

had missed the channel that separates them. Admitting even this, there

would still have been a considerable difference. It was with me a

matter of some consequence, to clear up this point the present season,

that I might have but one object in view the next. And, as these

northern isles are represented by him as abounding with wood, I was

in hopes, if I should find them, of getting a supply of that article,

which we now began to be in great want of on board.

With these views, I steered over for the American coast; and, at five

in the afternoon the next day, saw land bearing S. 1/4 E., which

we took to be Anderson's Island, or some other land near it, and

therefore did not wait to examine it. On the 6th, at four in the

morning, we got sight of the American coast near Sledge Island; and

at six, the same evening, this island bore N., 6° E., ten leagues

distant; and the easternmost land in sight N., 49° E. If any part of

what I had supposed to be American coast could possibly be the island

of Alaschka, it was that now before us; and in that case, I must have

missed the channel between it and the main, by steering to the west,

instead of the east, after we first fell in with it. I was not,

therefore, at a loss where to go, in order to clear up these doubts.

At eight in the evening of the 7th, we had got close in with the land,

Sledge Island bearing N. 85° W., eight or nine leagues distant;

and the eastern part of the coast N. 70° E., with high land in the

direction of E. by N., seemingly at a great distance beyond the

point. At this time we saw a light ashore, and two canoes, filled with

people, coming off toward us. I brought-to, that they might have time

to come up. But it was to no purpose; for, resisting all the signs of

friendship we could exhibit, they kept at the distance of a quarter of

a mile; so that we left them, and pursued our course along the coast.

At one in the morning of the 8th, finding the water shoal pretty fast,

we dropped anchor in ten fathoms, where we lay until day-light, and

then resumed our course along the coast, which we found to trend E.,

and E. 1/2 S. At seven in the evening, we were abreast of a point,

lying in the latitude of 64° 21', and in the longitude of 197°, beyond

which the coast takes a more northerly direction. At eight, this

point, which obtained the name of _Cape Darby_, bore S. 62° W.; the

northernmost land in sight, N. 32° E., and the nearest shore three

miles distant. In this situation we anchored in thirteen fathoms

water, over a muddy bottom.

Next morning, at day-break, we weighed, and sailed along the coast.

Two islands, as we supposed them to be, were at that time seen, the

one bearing S. 70° E., and the other E. Soon after, we found ourselves

upon a coast covered with wood; an agreeable sight, to which of late

we had not been accustomed. As we advanced to the north, we

raised land in the direction of N.E. 1/2 N., which proved to be a

continuation of the coast we were upon. We also saw high land over the

islands, seemingly at a good distance beyond them. This was thought

to be the continent, and the other land the island of Alaschka. But it

was already doubtful, whether we should find a passage between them;

for the water shoaled insensibly as we advanced further to the north.

In this situation, two boats were sent to sound before the ships, and

I ordered the Discovery to lead, keeping nearly in the mid-channel,

between the coast on our larboard, and the northernmost island on our

starboard. Thus we proceeded till three in the afternoon, when, having

passed the island, we had not more than three fathoms and a half of

water, and the Resolution, at one time, brought the mud up from the

bottom. More water was not to be found in any part of the channel,

for, with the ships and boats, we had tried it from side to side.

I therefore thought it high time to return, especially as the wind was

in such a quarter that we must ply back. But what I dreaded most was

the wind increasing, and raising the sea into waves, so as to put the

ships in danger of striking. At this time, a head-land on the west

shore, which is distinguished by the name of _Bald Head_, bore N. by

W., one league distant. The coast beyond it extended as far as N.E. by

N., where it seemed to end in a point, behind which the coast of the

high land, seen over the islands, stretched itself, and some thought

they could trace where it joined. On the west side of Bald Head, the

shore forms a bay, in the bottom of which is a low beach, where we saw

a number of huts or habitations of the natives.

Having continued to ply back all night, by day-break the next morning

we had got into six fathoms water. At nine o'clock, being about a

league from the west shore, I took two boats, and landed, attended by

Mr King, to seek wood and water. We landed where the coast projects

out into a bluff head, composed of perpendicular _strata_ of a rock of

a dark-blue colour, mixed with quartz and glimmer. There joins to the

beach a narrow border of land, now covered with long grass, and where

we met with some _angelica_. Beyond this, the ground rises abruptly.

At the top of this elevation, we found a heath, abounding with a

variety of berries; and further on, the country was level, and thinly

covered with small spruce-trees, and birch and willows no bigger than

broom-stuff. We observed tracks of deer and foxes on the beach; on

which also lay a great quantity of drift-wood, and there was no want

of fresh water. I returned on board, with an intention to bring the

ships to an anchor here; but the wind then veering to N.E., which blew

rather on this shore, I stretched over to the opposite one, in the

expectation of finding wood there also, and anchored at eight o'clock

in the evening, under the south end of the northernmost island, so

we then supposed it to be; but, next morning, we found it to be a

peninsula, united to the continent by a low neck of land, on each side

of which the coast forms a bay. We plied into the southernmost, and

about noon anchored in five fathoms water, over a bottom of mud; the

point of the peninsula, which obtained the name of _Cape Denbigh_,

bearing N. 68° W., three miles distant.

Several people were seen upon the peninsula, and one man came off in a

small canoe. I gave him a knife, and a few beads, with which he seemed

well pleased. Having made signs to him to bring us something to eat,

he immediately left us, and paddled toward the shore. But meeting

another man coming off, who happened to have two dried salmon, he got

them from him; and on returning to the ship, would give them to nobody

but me. Some of our people thought that he asked for me under the name

of _Capitane_; but in this they were probably mistaken. He knew who

had given him the knife and beads, but I do not see how he could know

that I was the captain. Others of the natives soon after came off, and

exchanged a few dry fish, for such trifles as they could get, or we

had to give them. They were most desirous of knives, and they had no

dislike to tobacco.

After dinner, Lieutenant Gore was sent to the peninsula, to see if

wood and water were there to be got, or rather water; for the whole

beach round the bay seemed to be covered with drift-wood. At the same

time, a boat was sent from each ship, to sound round the bay; and, at

three in the afternoon, the wind freshening at N.E., we weighed, in

order to work farther in. But it was soon found to be impossible,

on account of the shoals, which extended quite round the bay, to the

distance of two or three miles from the shore, as the officers, who

had been sent to sound, reported. We, therefore, kept standing off

and on with the ships, waiting for Mr Gore, who returned about eight

o'clock, with the launch laden with wood.

He reported, that there was but little fresh water; and that wood

was difficult to be got at, by reason of the boats grounding at some

distance from the beach. This being the case, I stood back to the

other shore; and, at eight o'clock the next morning, sent all the

boats, and a party of men with an officer, to get wood from the place

where I had landed two days before. We continued for a while to

stand on and off with the ships; but, at length, came to an anchor in

one-fourth less than five fathoms, half a league from the coast, the

south point of which bore S. 26° W.; and Bald Head, N. 60° E.,

nine leagues distant. Cape Denbigh bore S. 72° E., twenty-six miles

distant; and the island under the east shore, to the southward of

Cape Denbigh, named _Besborough Island_, S. 52° E., fifteen leagues

distant.

As this was a very open road, and consequently not a safe station,

I resolved not to wait to complete water, as that would require some

time; but only to supply the ships with wood, and then to go in search

of a more convenient place for the other article. We took off the

drift-wood that lay upon the beach; and as the wind blew along

shore, the boats could sail both ways, which enabled us to make great

dispatch.

In the afternoon, I went ashore, and walked a little into the country,

which, where there was no wood, was covered with heath and other

plants, some of which produce berries in abundance. All the berries

were ripe, the hurtle-berries too much so, and hardly a single plant

was in flower. The underwood, such as birch, willows, and alders,

rendered it very troublesome walking amongst the trees, which were all

spruce, and none of them above six or eight inches in diameter. But

we found some lying upon the beach more than twice this size. All the

drift-wood in these northern parts was fir. I saw not a stick of any

other sort.

Next day, a family of the natives came near to the place where we were

taking off wood. I know not how many there were at first; but I saw

only the husband, the wife, and their child; and a fourth person who

bore the human shape, and that was all; for he was the most deformed

cripple I had ever seen or heard of. The other man was almost blind;

and neither he nor his wife were such good-looking people as we had

sometimes seen amongst the natives of this coast. The under-lips

of both were bored; and they had in their possession some such

glass-beads as I had met with before amongst their neighbours. But

iron was their beloved article. For four knives, which we had made out

of an old iron hoop, I got from them near four hundred pounds weight

of fish, which they had caught on this or the preceding day. Some were

trout, and the rest were, in size and taste, somewhat between a mullet

and a herring. I gave the child, who was a girl, a few beads; on which

the mother burst into tears, then the father, then the cripple, and

at last, to complete the concert, the girl herself. But this music

continued not long.[4] Before night, we had got the ships, amply

supplied with wood; and had carried on board about twelve tons of

water to each.

[Footnote 4: Captain King has communicated the following account of

an interview with the same family: "On the 12th, while I attended the

wooding party, a canoe, full of natives, approached us; and, beckoning

them to land, an elderly man and woman came on shore. I gave the woman

a small knife, making her understand, that I would give, her a much

larger one for some fish. She made signs to me to follow her. I had

proceeded with them about a mile, when the man, in crossing a stony

beach, fell down, and cut his foot very much. This made me stop; upon

which the woman pointed to the man's eyes, which, I observed, were

covered with a thick, white film. He afterward kept close to his wife,

who apprised him of the obstacles in his way. The woman had a little

child on her back, covered with the hood of her jacket; and which I

took for a bundle till I heard it cry. At about two miles distant we

came to their open skin boat, which was turned on its side, the convex

part towards the wind, and served for their house. I was now made to

perform a singular operation on the man's eyes. First, I was directed

to hold my breath; afterwards, to breathe on the diseased eyes; and,

next, to spit on them. The woman then took both my hands, and pressing

them to his stomach, held them there for some time, while she related

some calamitous history of her family; pointing sometimes to her

husband, sometimes to a frightful cripple belonging to the family, and

sometimes to her child. I purchased all the fish they had, consisting

of very fine salmon, salmon-trout, and mullet; which were delivered

most faithfully to the man I sent for them. The man was about five

feet two inches high, and well made; his colour of a light copper; his

hair black and short, and with little beard. He had two holes in his

under-lip, but no ornaments in them. The woman was short and squat,

with a plump round face; wore a deer-skin jacket, with a large hood,

and had on wide boots. The teeth of both were black, and seemed as if

they had been filed down level with the gums. The woman was punctured

from the lip to the chin."--D.]

On the 14th, a party of men were sent on shore to cut brooms, which

we were in want of, and the branches of spruce trees for brewing beer.

Toward noon, every body was taken on board; for the wind freshening,

had raised such a surf on the beach, that the boats could not continue

to land without great difficulty. Some doubts being still entertained,

whether the coast we were now upon belonged to an island or the

American continent; and the shallowness of the water putting it out

of our power to determine this with our ships, I sent Lieutenant King,

with two boats under his command, to make such searches as might leave

no room for a variety of opinions on the subject.[5] Next day, the

ships removed over to the bay, which is on the S.E. side of Cape

Denbigh, where we anchored in the afternoon. Soon after, a few of the

natives came off in their small canoes, and bartered some dried salmon

for such trifles as our people had to give them.

[Footnote 5: Captain King has been so good as to communicate his

instructions on this occasion, and the particulars of the fatigue he

underwent, in carrying them into execution:

"You are to proceed to the northward as far as the extreme point we

saw on Wednesday last, or a little further, if you think it necessary;

land there, and endeavour, from the heights, to discover whether the

land you are then upon, supposed to be the island of Alaschka, is

really an island, or joins to the land on the east, supposed to be the

continent of America. If the former, you are to satisfy yourself with

the depth of water in the channel between them, and which way the

flood-tide comes. But if you find the two lands connected, lose no

time in sounding; but make the best of your way back to the ship,

which you will find at anchor near the point of land we anchored under

on Friday last. If you perceive any likelihood of a change of weather

for the worse, you are, in that case, to return to the ship, although

you have not performed the service you are sent upon; and, at any

rate, you are not to remain longer upon it than four or five days;

but the sooner it is done the better. If any unforeseen or unavoidable

accident should force the ships off the coast, so that they cannot

return at a reasonable time, the rendezvous is at the harbour of

Samganoodha; that is, the place where we last completed our water.

"JAMES COOK."

"_To Lieutenant King_."

"Our cutter being hoisted out, and the signal made for the

Discovery's, at eight o'clock at night on the 14th, we set out. It was

a little unlucky that the boats' crews had been much fatigued during

the whole day in bringing things from the shore. They pulled stoutly,

without rest or intermission, toward the land, till one o'clock in the

morning of the 15th. I wanted much to have gone close to it, to

have had the advantage of the wind, which had, very regularly in the

evening, blown from the land, and in the day-time down the Sound, from

the N.N.E., and was contrary to our course; but the men were at this

time too much fatigued to press them farther. We, therefore, set our

sails, and stood across the bay, which the coast forms to the west of

Baldhead, and steered for it. But, as I expected, by three o'clock,

the wind headed us; and, as it was in vain to endeavour to fetch

Baldhead with our sails, we again took to the oars. The Discovery's

boat, (being a heavy king's-built cutter, while ours was one from

Deal,) had, in the night-time, detained us very much, and now we soon

pulled out of sight of her; nor would I wait, being in great hopes to

reach the extreme point that was in sight time enough to ascend the

heights before dark, as the weather was at this time remarkably clear

and fine, and we could see to a great distance. By two o'clock we had

got within two miles of Baldhead, under the lee of the high land, and

in smooth water; but, at the moment our object was nearly attained,

all the men but two were so overcome with fatigue and sleep, that my

utmost endeavours to make them put on were ineffectual. They at length

dropped their oars, quite exhausted, and fell asleep in the bottom of

the boat. Indeed, considering that they had set out fatigued, and had

now been sixteen hours out of the eighteen since they left the ship,

pulling in a poppling sea, it was no wonder that their strength and

spirits should be worn out for want of sleep and refreshments. The two

gentlemen who were with me and myself, were now obliged to lay hold of

the oars; and, by a little after three, we landed between the Baldhead

and a projecting point to the eastward."--D.]

At day-break, on the 16th, nine men, each in his canoe, paid us a

visit. They approached the ship with some caution; and evidently

came with no other view than to gratify their curiosity. They drew up

abreast of each other, under our stern, and gave us a song; while one

of their number beat upon a kind of drum, and another made a thousand

antic motions with his hands and body. There was, however, nothing

savage either in the song or in the gestures that accompanied it. None

of us could perceive any difference between these people, either as to

their size or features, and those whom we had met with on every other

part of the coast, King George's Sound excepted. Their clothing, which

consisted principally of deer-skins, was made after the same fashion;

and they observed the custom of boring their under-lips, and fixing

ornaments to them.

The dwellings of these people were seated close to the beach. They

consist simply of a sloping roof, without any side-walls, composed of

logs, and covered with grass and earth. The floor is also laid with

logs; the entrance is at one end; the fire-place just within it, and a

small hole is made near the door to let out the smoke.

After breakfast, a party of men were sent to the peninsula for brooms

and spruce. At the same time, half the remainder of the people in

each ship had leave to go and pick berries. These returned on board at

noon, when the other half went on the same errand. The berries to be

got here were wild currant-berries, hurtle-berries, partridge-berries,

and heath-berries. I also went ashore myself, and walked over part

of the peninsula. In several places there was very good grass; and

I hardly saw a spot on which some vegetable was not growing. The

low land which connects this peninsula with the continent is full of

narrow creeks; and abounds with ponds of water, some of which were

already frozen over. There were a great many geese and bustards; but

so shy, that it was not possible to get within musket-shot of them. We

also met with some snipes, and on the high ground were partridges of

two sorts. Where there was any wood, musquitoes were in plenty. Some

of the officers, who travelled farther than I did, met with a few of

the natives of both sexes, who treated them with civility.

It appeared to me, that this peninsula must have been an island in

remote times; for there were marks of the sea having flowed over the

isthmus. And even now, it appeared to be kept out by a bank of

sand, stones, and wood, thrown up by the waves. By this bank, it was

evident, that the land was here encroaching upon the sea, and it was

easy to trace its gradual formation.

About seven, in the evening, Mr King returned from his expedition; and

reported, that he proceeded with the boats about three or four leagues

farther than the ships had been able to go; that he then landed on the

west side; that, from the heights, he could see the two coasts join,

and the inlet to terminate in a small river or creek, before which

were banks of sand or mud; and every where shoal water. The land, too,

was low and swampy for some distance to the northward; then it swelled

into hills; and the complete junction of those, on each side of the

inlet, was easily traced.

From the elevated spot on which Mr King surveyed the Sound, he could

distinguish many extensive valleys, with rivers running through them,

well wooded, and bounded by hills of a gentle ascent and moderate

height. One of these rivers to the N.W. appeared to be considerable;

and from its direction, he was inclined to think, that it emptied

itself into the sea at the head of the bay. Some of his people, who

penetrated beyond this into the country, found the trees larger the

farther they advanced.[6]

[Footnote 6: Here Mr Arrowsmith's map is to be preferred, as

accurately following the description Captain King has given. Several

names are omitted by Mr Coxe, and his delineation of the coast is

rather unsatisfactory.--E.]

In honour of Sir Fletcher Norton,[7] Speaker of the House of Commons,

and Mr King's nearest relation, I named this inlet _Norton Sound_. It

extends to the northward as far as the latitude of 64° 55'. The bay,

in which we were now at anchor, lies on the S.E. side of it; and is

called by the natives _Chacktoole_. It is but an indifferent station,

being exposed to the south and south-west winds. Nor is there a

harbour in all this Sound. But we were so fortunate as to have the

wind from the N. and N.E. all the time, with remarkable fine weather.

This gave us an opportunity to make no less than seventy-seven sets of

lunar observations between the 6th and 7th inclusive. The mean result

of these made the longitude of the anchoring-place, on the west side

of the Sound, to be

197° 13'

Latitude 64 31

Variation of the compass 25 45 east.

Dip of the needle 76 25

[Footnote 7: Afterwards Lord Grantley.]

Of the tides, it was observed, that the night-flood rose about two or

three feet, and that the day-flood was hardly perceivable.

Having now fully satisfied myself, that Mr Stæhlin's map must be

erroneous; and having restored the American continent to that space

which he had occupied with his imaginary island of Alaschka, it was

high time to think of leaving these northern regions, add to retire to

some place during the winter, where I might procure refreshments for

my people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the

harbour of St Peter and St Paul, in Kamtschatka, did not appear likely

to furnish either the one or the other for so large a number of men.

I had, besides, other reasons for not repairing thither at this time.

The first, and on which all the others depended, was the great dislike

I had to lie inactive for six or seven months; which would have been

the necessary consequence of wintering in any of these northern parts.

No place was so conveniently within our reach, where we could

expect to have our wants relieved, as the Sandwich Islands. To them,

therefore, I determined to proceed. But, before this could be carried

into execution, a supply of water was necessary. With this view I

resolved to search the American coast for a harbour, by proceeding

along it to the southward, and thus endeavour to connect the survey

of this part of it with that lying immediately to the north of Cape

Newenham. If I failed in finding a harbour there my plan was then

to proceed to Samganoodha, which was fixed upon as our place of

rendezvous, in case of separation.

SECTION XI.

_Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound.--Stuart's Island.--Cape

Stephens.--Point Shallow-Water.--Shoals on the American

Coast.--Clerke's Island.--Gore's Island.--Pinnacle Island.--Arrival at

Oonalashka.--Intercourse with the Natives and Russian Traders.--Charts

of the Russian Discoveries, communicated by Mr Ismyloff.--Their

Errors pointed out.--Situation of the Islands visited by the

Russians.--Account of their Settlement at Oonalashka.--Of the Natives

of the Island.--Their Persons.--Dress.--Ornaments.--Food.--Houses

and domestic Utensils.--Manufactures.--Manner of producing

Fire.--Canoes.--Fishing and Hunting Implements.--Fishes, and Sea

Animals.--Sea and Water Fowls, and Land Birds.--Land Animals and

Vegetables.--Manner of burying the Dead.--Resemblance of the

Natives on this Side of America to the Greenlanders and

Esquimaux.--Tides.--Observations for determining the Longitude of

Oonalashka._

Having weighed, on the 17th in the morning, with a light breeze

at east, we steered to the southward, and attempted to pass within

Besborough Island; but though it lies six or seven miles from the

continent, were prevented by meeting with shoal water. As we had but

little wind all the day, it was dark before we passed the island; and

the night was spent under an easy sail.

We resumed our course, at day-break on the 18th, along the coast.

At noon, we had no more than five fathoms water. At this time the

latitude was 63° 37'. Besborough, Island now bore N., 42° E.; the

southernmost land in sight, which proved also to be an island, S., 66°

W.; the passage between it and the main S., 40° W.; and the nearest

land about two miles distant. I continued to steer for this passage,

until the boats, which were ahead, made the signal for having no more

than three fathoms water. On this we hauled without the island; and

made the signal for the Resolution's boat to keep between the ships

and the shore.

This island, which obtained the name of _Stuart's Island_, lies in the

latitude of 63° 35', and seventeen leagues from. Cape Denbigh, in the

direction of S., 27° W. It is six or seven leagues in circuit. Some

parts of it are of a middling height; but, in general, it is low; with

some rocks lying off the western part. The coast of the continent is,

for the most part, low land; but we saw high land up the country. It

forms a point, opposite the island, which was named _Cape Stephens_,

and lies in latitude 63° 33', and in longitude 197° 41'. Some

drift wood was seen upon the shores, both of the island and of the

continent; but not a tree was perceived growing upon either. One might

anchor, upon occasion, between the N.E. side of this island and

the continent, in a depth of five fathoms, sheltered from westerly,

southerly, and easterly winds. But this station would be wholly

exposed to the northerly winds, the land, in that direction, being at

too great distance to afford any security. Before we reached Stuart's

Island, we passed two small islands, lying between us and the main;

and as we ranged along the coast, several people appeared upon the

shore, and, by signs, seemed to invite us to approach them.

As soon as we were without the island, we steered S. by W., for the

southernmost point of the continent in sight, till eight o'clock in

the evening, when, having shoaled the water from six fathoms to less

than four, I tacked, and stood to the northward, into five fathoms,

and then spent the night plying off and on. At the time we tacked, the

southernmost point of land, the same which is mentioned above, and was

named _Point Shallow-Water_, bore S. 1/2 E., seven leagues distant.

We resumed our course to the southward at day-break next morning, but

shoal water obliged us to haul more to the westward. At length, we got

so far advanced upon the bank, that we could not hold a N.N.W. course,

meeting sometimes with only four fathoms. The wind blowing fresh at

E.N.E. it was high time to look for deep water, and to quit a coast,

upon which we could no longer navigate with any degree of safety. I

therefore hauled the wind to the northward, and gradually deepened the

water to eight fathoms. At the same time we hauled the wind, we were

at least twelve leagues, from the continent, and nine to the westward

of Stuart's Island. No land was seen to the southward of Point

Shallow-Water, which I judge to lie in the latitude of 63°. So that,

between this latitude and Shoal Ness, in latitude 60°, the coast is

entirely unexplored. Probably, it is accessible only to boats, or very

small vessels; or at least, if there be channels for large vessels, it

would require some time to find them; and I am of opinion, that they

must be looked for near the coast. From the mast-head, the sea within

us appeared to be chequered with shoals; the water was very much

discoloured and muddy, and considerably fresher than at any of the

places where we had lately anchored. From this I inferred, that a

considerable river runs into the sea in this unknown part.[1]

[Footnote 1: Mr Arrowsmith has filled up the coast betwixt the two

points now mentioned, and supplied it also with rivers, according to

the conjecture of Captain Cook. But it is obvious, that this is not

sufficient authority; and therefore, unless better be given, Mr Coxe

seems to have done more correctly, in indicating the space by a dotted

line, the usual mark of an unexplored region.--E.]

As soon as we got into eight fathoms water, I steered to the westward,

and afterward more southerly, for the land discovered on the 5th,

which, at noon the next day, bore S.W. by W., ten or eleven leagues

distant. At this time we had a fresh gale at north, with showers of

hail and snow at intervals, and a pretty high sea; so that we got

clear of the shoals but just in time. As I now found that the land

before us lay too far to the westward to be Anderson's Island, I named

it _Clerke's Island_. It lies in the latitude of 63° 15', and in the

longitude of 190° 30'. It seemed to be a pretty large island, in which

are four or more hills, all connected by low ground; so that, at a

distance, it looks like a group of islands. Near its east part lies a

small island, remarkable by having upon it three elevated rocks. Not

only the greater island, but this small spot, was inhabited.[2]

[Footnote 2: It is somewhat singular, that neither Arrowsmith nor Coxe

mentions Anderson's Island. The former, on additional authority, has

marked but one island in the position specified, under the name of

Eivoogiena, or Clerke's Island.--E.]

We got up to the northern point of Clerke's Island about six o'clock,

and having ranged along its coast till dark, brought-to during the

night. At day-break, next morning, we stood in again for the coast,

and continued to range along it in search of a harbour till noon;

when, seeing no likelihood of succeeding, I left it, and steered

S.S.W. for the land which we had discovered on the 29th of July,

having a fresh gale at north, with showers of sleet and snow. I

remarked, that as soon as we opened the channel which separates

the two continents, cloudy weather, with snow showers, immediately

commenced; whereas, all the time we were in Norton Sound, we had,

with the same wind, clear weather. Might not this be occasioned by

the mountains to the north of that place attracting the vapours, and

hindering them to proceed any farther?

At day-break, in the morning of the 23d, the land above mentioned

appeared in sight, bearing S.W., six or seven leagues distant. From

this point of view it resembled a group of islands; but it proved to

be but one, of thirty miles in extent, in the direction of N.W. and

S.E.; the S.E. end being Cape Upright, already taken notice of. The

island is but narrow; especially at the low necks of land that connect

the hills. I afterward found, that it was wholly unknown to the

Russians; and therefore, considering it as a discovery of our own,

I named it _Gore's Island_. It appeared to be barren, and without

inhabitants; at least we saw none. Nor did we see so many birds about

it as when we first discovered it. But we saw some sea-otters; an

animal which we had not met with to the northward of this latitude.[3]

Four leagues from Cape Upright, in the direction of S., 72° W., lies

a small island, whose elevated summit terminates in several pinnacled

rocks. On this account it was named _Pinnacle Island_. At two in

the afternoon, after passing Cape Upright, I steered S.E. by S., for

Samganoodha, with a gentle breeze at N.N.W., being resolved to spend

no more time in searching for a harbour amongst islands, which I now

began to suspect had no existence; at least not in the latitude and

longitude where modern map-makers have thought proper to place them.

In the evening of the 24th, the wind veered to S.W. and S., and

increased to a fresh gale.

[Footnote 3: Mr Arrowsmith, as in the case of the island mentioned in

the last note, has given the native name to this island, viz. Matwi,

retaining also, however, the name of Gore.--E.]

We continued to stretch to the eastward, till eight o'clock in the

morning of the 25th, when, in the latitude of 191° 10', we tacked

and stood to the west; and soon after, the gale increasing, we were

reduced to two courses, and close-reefed main top-sails. Not long

after, the Resolution sprung a leak, under the starboard buttock,

which filled the spirit-room with water before it was discovered; and

it was so considerable as to keep one pump constantly employed. We

durst not put the ship upon the other tack for fear of getting upon

the shoals that lie to the N.W. of Cape Newenham; but continued

standing to the west till six in the evening of the 26th, when we wore

and stood to the eastward, and then the leak no longer troubled us.

This proved that it was above the water line, which was no small

satisfaction. The gale was now over, but the wind remained at S. and

S.W. for some days longer.

At length, on the 2d of October, at day-break, we saw the island of

Oonalashka, bearing S.E. But as this was to us a new point of view,

and the land was obscured by a thick haze, we were not sure of our

situation till noon, when the observed latitude determined it. As

all harbours were alike to me, provided they were equally safe and

convenient, I hauled into a bay, that lies ten miles to the westward

of Samganoodha, known by the name of _Egoochshac_; but we found very

deep water; so that we were glad to get out again. The natives, many

of whom lived here, visited us at different times, bringing with them

dried salmon and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for

tobacco. But, a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in

the ship had been distributed among them; and the quantity was not

half sufficient to answer their demands. Notwithstanding this, so

improvident a creature is an English sailor, that they were as profuse

in making their bargains, as if we had now arrived at a port in

Virginia; by which means, in less than eight and forty hours, the

value of this article of barter was lowered above a thousand per cent.

At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha

harbour; and the next morning the carpenters of both ships were set to

work to rip off the sheathing of and under the wale, on the starboard

side abaft. Many of the seams were found quite open; so that it was

no wonder that so much water had found its way into the ship. While

we lay here, we cleared the fish and spirit rooms, and the after-hold;

disposing things in such a manner, that in case we should happen to

have any more leaks of the same nature, the water might find its way

to the pumps. And besides this work, and completing our water, we

cleared the fore-hold to the very bottom, and took in a quantity of

ballast.

The vegetables which we had met with when we were here before, were

now mostly in a state of decay; so that we were but little benefited

by the great quantities of berries every where found ashore. In order

to avail ourselves as much as possible of this useful refreshment,

one third of the people, by turns, had leave to go and pick them.

Considerable quantities of them were also procured from the natives.

If there were any seeds of the scurvy, in either ship, these berries,

and the use of spruce beer, which they had to drink every other day,

effectually eradicated them.

We also got plenty of fish; at first mostly salmon, both fresh and

dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in

high perfection; but there was one sort, which we called hook-nosed,

from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. We drew the

seine several times, at the head of the bay; and caught a good

many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and

fifty-four pounds. The fishery failing, we had recourse to hooks and

lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without

eight or ten halibut; which was more than sufficient to serve all

our people. The halibut was excellent, and there were few who did not

prefer them to salmon. Thus we not only procured a supply of fish

for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. This

enabled us to make a considerable saving of our provisions, which was

an object of no small importance.

On the 8th, I received, by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named

Derramoushk, a very singular present, considering the place. It was a

rye loaf, or rather a pye made in, the form of a loaf, for it inclosed

some salmon, highly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like

present for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of us, written in a

character which none of us could read. It was natural to suppose,

that this present was from some Russians now in our neighbourhood; and

therefore we sent, by the same hand, to these our unknown friends,

a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter; which we thought would be as

acceptable as anything we had besides; and we soon knew that in

this we had not been mistaken. I also sent, along with Derramoushk,

Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, with orders,

that if he met with any Russians, he should endeavour to make them

understand that we were English, the friends and allies of their

nation.[4]