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A
GENERAL
HISTORY AND COLLECTION
OF
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
ARRANGED IN SYSTEMATIC ORDER:
FORMING A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN AND PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION,
DISCOVERY, AND COMMERCE, BY SEA AND LAND, FROM THE EARLIEST AGES TO
THE PRESENT TIME.
* * * * *
BY
ROBERT KERR, F.R.S. & F.A.S. EDIN.
* * * * *
ILLUSTRATED BY MAPS AND CHARTS.
VOL. XVI.
WILLIAM BLACKWOOD, EDINBURGH:
AND T. CADELL, LONDON.
MDCCCXXIV.
CONTENTS OF VOL. XVI.
CHAP. III. Transactions at Otaheite, and the Society Islands; and
prosecution of the Voyage to the Coast of North America, 1
SECT.
I. An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Island Toobouai
discovered. Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance. Intercourse
with its Inhabitants. Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes
described. Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite. Omai's
Reception and imprudent Conduct. Account of Spanish Ships
twice visiting the Island. Interview with the Chief of this
District. The Olla, or God, of Bolabola. A mad Prophet.
Arrival in Matavai Bay, 1
II. Interview with Otoo, King of the Island, Imprudent Conduct
of Omai. Employments on Shore. European Animals landed.
Particulars about a Native who had visited Lima. About
Oedidee. A Revolt in Eimeo. War with that Island determined
upon, in a Council of Chiefs. A human Sacrifice on that
Account. A particular Relation of the Ceremonies at the
great Morai, where the Sacrifice was offered. Other barbarous
Customs of this People, 16
III. Conference with Towha. Heevas described. Omai and Oedidee
give Dinners. Fireworks exhibited. A remarkable Present of
Cloth. Manner of preserving the Body of a dead Chief. Another
human Sacrifice. Riding on Horseback. Otoo's Attention to
supply Provisions, and prevent Thefts. Animals given to him.
Etary, and the Deputies of a Chief, have Audiences. A mock
Fight of two War Canoes. Naval Strength of these Islands.
Manner of conducting a War, 35
IV. The Day of Sailing fixed. Peace made with Eimeo. Debates
about it, and Otoo's Conduct blamed. A Solemnity at the Morai
on the Occasion, described by Mr King. Observations upon it.
Instance of Otoo's Art. Omai's War-Canoe, and Remarks upon his
Behaviour. Otoo's Present, and Message to the King of Great
Britain. Reflections on our Manner of Traffic, and on the good
Treatment we met with at Otaheite. Account of the Expedition
of the Spaniards. Their Fictions to depreciate the English.
Wishes expressed that no Settlement may be made. Omai's
Jealousy of another Traveller, 48
V. Arrival at Eimeo. Two Harbours there, and an Account of
them. Visit from Maheine, Chief of the Island. His Person
described. A Goat stolen, and sent back with the Thief.
Another Goat stolen, and secreted. Measures taken on the
Occasion. Expedition cross the Island. Houses and Canoes
burnt. The Goat delivered up, and Peace restored. Some Account
of the Island, &c. 62
VI. Arrival at Huaheine. Council of the Chiefs. Omai's
Offerings, and Speech to the Chiefs. His Establishment in this
Island agreed to. A House built, and Garden planted for him.
Singularity of his Situation. Measures taken to insure his
Safety. Damage done by Cock-roaches on board the Ships. A
Thief detected and punished. Fireworks exhibited. Animals left
with Omai. His Family. Weapons. Inscription on his House. His
Behaviour on the Ships leaving the Island. Summary View of his
Conduct and Character. Account of the two New Zealand Youths,
71
VII. Arrival at Ulietea. Astronomical Observations. A
Marine deserts, and is delivered up. Intelligence from
Omai. Instructions to Captain Clerke. Another Desertion of
a Midshipman and a Seaman. Three of the chief Persons of the
Island confined on that Account. A Design to seize Captains
Cook and Clerke discovered. The two Deserters brought back,
and the Prisoners released. The Ships sail. Refreshments
received at Ulietea. Present and former State of that Island.
Account of its dethroned King, and of the late Regent of
Huaheine, 87
VIII. Arrival at Bolabola. Interview with Opoony. Reasons for
purchasing Monsieur de Bougainville's Anchor. Departure from
the Society Islands. Particulars about Bolabola. History of
the Conquest of Otaha and Ulietea. High Reputation of the
Bolabola Men. Animals left there and at Ulietea. Plentiful
Supply of Provisions, and Manner of salting Pork on Board.
Various Reflections relative to Otaheite and the Society
Islands. Astronomical and Nautical Observations made there, 99
IX. Accounts of Otaheite still imperfect. The prevailing
Winds. Beauty of the Country. Cultivation. Natural
Curiosities. The Persons of the Natives. Diseases. General
Character. Love of Pleasure. Language. Surgery and Physic.
Articles of Food. Effects of drinking Ava. Times and Manner of
Eating. Connexions with the Females. Circumcision. System of
Religion. Notions about the Soul and a future Life. Various
Superstitions. Traditions about the Creation. An historical
Legend. Honours paid to the King. Distinction of Ranks.
Punishment of Crimes. Peculiarities of the neighbouring
Islands. Names of their Gods. Names of Islands they visit.
Extent of their Navigation, 10
X. Progress of the Voyage, after leaving the Society Islands.
Christmas Island discovered, and Station of the Ships there.
Boats sent ashore. Great Success in catching Turtle. An
Eclipse of the Sun observed. Distress of two Seamen who had
lost their Way. Inscription left in a Bottle. Account of the
Island. Its Soil. Trees and Plants. Birds. Its Size. Form.
Situation. Anchoring Ground, 139
XI. Some Islands discovered. Account of the Natives of Atooi,
who came off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going
on Board. One of them killed. Precautions used to prevent
Intercourse with the Females. A Watering-place found.
Reception upon landing. Excursion into the Country. A Morai
visited and described. Graves of the Chiefs, and of the human
Sacrifices, there buried. Another Island, called Oneeheow,
visited. Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to
the Ships. Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals.
A Party sent ashore, who remain two Nights. Account of what
passed on landing. The Ships leave the Islands, and proceed to
the North, 148
XII. The Situation of the Islands now discovered. Their
Names. Called the Sandwich Islands. Atooi described. The Soil.
Climate. Vegetable Productions. Birds. Fish. Domestic
Animals. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Disposition.
Dress. Ornaments. Habitations. Food. Cookery. Amusements.
Manufactures. Working-tools. Knowledge of Iron accounted for.
Canoes. Agriculture. Account of one of their Chiefs. Weapons.
Customs agreeing with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite.
Their Language the same. Extent of this Nation throughout
the Pacific Ocean. Reflections on the useful Situation of the
Sandwich Islands, 172
XIII. Observations made at the Sandwich Islands, on the
Longitude, Variation of the Compass and Tides. Prosecution of
the Voyage. Remarks on the Mildness of the Weather, as far as
the Latitude 44° North. Paucity of Sea Birds, in the Northern
Hemisphere. Small Sea Animals described. Arrival on the Coast
of America. Appearance of the Country. Unfavourable Winds and
boisterous Weather. Remarks on Martin de Aguilar's River, and
Juan de Fuca's pretended Strait. An Inlet discovered, where
the Ship's anchor. Behaviour of the Natives, 195
CHAP. IV. Transactions, amongst the Natives of North America;
Discoveries along that Coast and the Eastern Extremity of Asia,
Northward to Icy Cape; and return Southward to the Sandwich Islands,
207
SECT.
I. The Ships enter the Sound, and moor in a Harbour.
Intercourse with the Natives. Articles brought to barter.
Thefts committed. The Observatories erected, and Carpenters
set to work. Jealousy of the Inhabitants of the Sound to
prevent other Tribes having Intercourse with the Ships. Stormy
and rainy Weather. Progress round the Sound. Behaviour of the
Natives at their Villages. Their Manner of drying Fish, &c.
Remarkable Visit from Strangers, and introductory Ceremonies.
A second Visit to one of the Villages. Leave to cut Grass,
purchased. The Ships sail. Presents given and received at
parting, 207
II. The Name of the Sound, and Directions for Sailing into
it. Account of the adjacent Country. Weather. Climate. Trees.
Other Vegetable Productions. Quadrupeds, whose Skins were
brought for Sale. Sea Animals. Description of a Sea-Otter.
Birds. Water Fowl. Fish. Shell-fish, &c. Reptiles. Insects.
Stones, &c. Persons of the Inhabitants. Their Colour. Common
Dress and Ornaments. Occasional Dresses, and monstrous
Decorations of wooden Masks. Their general Dispositions.
Songs. Musical Instruments. Their Eagerness to possess Iron
and other Metals, 221
III. Manner of Building the Houses in Nootka Sound. Inside
of them described. Furniture and Utensils. Wooden Images.
Employments of the Men. Of the Women. Food, Animal and
Vegetable. Manner of preparing it. Weapons. Manufactures and
Mechanic Arts. Carving and Painting. Canoes. Implements for
Fishing and Hunting. Iron Tools. Manner of procuring that
Metal. Remarks on their Language, and a Specimen of it.
Astronomical and Nautical Observations made in Nootka Sound,
239
IV. A Storm, after sailing from Nootka Sound. Resolution
springs a Leak. Pretended Strait of Admiral de Fonte passed
unexamined. Progress along the Coast of America. Behring's
Bay. Kaye's Island. Account of it. The Ships come to an
Anchor. Visited by the Natives. Their Behaviour. Fondness for
Beads and Iron. Attempt to plunder the Discovery. Resolution's
Leak stopped; Progress up the Sound. Messrs Gore and Roberts
sent to examine its Extent. Reasons against a Passage to the
North through it. The Ships proceed down it to the open Sea
260
V. The Inlet called Prince William's Sound. Its Extent.
Persons of the Inhabitants described. Their Dress. Incision of
the Under-lip. Various other Ornaments. Their Boats. Weapons.
Fishing and hunting Instruments. Utensils. Tools. Uses Iron
is applied to. Food. Language, and a Specimen of it. Animals.
Birds. Fish. Iron and Beads, whence received, 279
VI. Progress along the Coast. Cape Elizabeth. Cape St
Hermogenes. Accounts of Beering's Voyage very defective. Point
Banks. Cape Douglas. Cape Bede. Mount St Augustin. Hopes
of finding a Passage up an Inlet. The Ships proceed up it.
Indubitable Marks of its being a River. Named Cook's River.
The Ships return down it. Various Visits from the Natives.
Lieutenant King lands, and takes Possession of the Country.
His Report. The Resolution runs aground on a Shoal.
Reflections on the Discovery of Cook's River. The considerable
Tides in it accounted for, 291
VII. Discoveries after leaving Cook's River. Island of St
Hermogenes. Cape Whitsunday. Cape Greville. Cape Barnabas.
Two-headed Point. Trinity Island. Beering's Foggy Island. A
beautiful Bird described. Kodiak and the Schumagin Islands. A
Russian Letter brought on Board by a Native. Conjectures
about it. Rock Point. Halibut Island. A Volcano Mountain.
Providential Escape. Arrival of the Ships at Oonalaschka.
Intercourse with the Natives there. Another Russian Letter.
Samganoodha Harbour described, 306
VIII. Progress Northward, after leaving Oonalashka. The
Islands Oonella and Acootan. Ooneemak. Shallowness of the
Water along the Coast. Bristol Bay. Round Island. Calm Point.
Cape Newenham. Lieutenant Williamson lands, and his Report.
Bristol Bay, and its Extent. The Ships obliged to return on
account of Shoals. Natives come off to the Ships. Death of
Mr Anderson; his Character; and Island named after him. Point
Rodney. Sledge Island, and Remarks on landing there. King's
Island. Cape Prince of Wales, the Western Extreme of America.
Course Westward. Anchor in a Bay on the Coast of Asia, 323
IX. Behaviour of the Natives, the Tschutski, on seeing the
Ships. Interview with some of them. Their Weapons. Persons.
Ornaments Clothing. Winter and Summer Habitations. The Ships
cross the Strait, to the Coast of America. Progress Northward.
Cape Mulgrave. Appearance of Fields of Ice. Situation of Icy
Cape, the Sea blocked up with Ice. Sea-horses killed, and used
as Provisions. These Animals described. Dimensions of one of
them. Cape Lisburne. Fruitless Attempt to get through the Ice
at a Distance from the Coast. Observations on the Formation
of this Ice. Arrival on the Coast of Asia. Cape North. The
Prosecution of the Voyage deferred to the ensuing Year, 338
X. Return from Cape North, along the Coast of Asia. Views of
the Country. Burney's Island. Cape Serdze Kamen, the Northern
Limit of Beering's Voyage. Pass the East Cape of Asia.
Description and Situation of it. Observations on Muller.
The Tschutski. Bay of Saint Laurence. Two other Bays, and
Habitations of the Natives. Beering's Cape Tschukotskoi.
Beering's Position of this Coast accurate. Island of Saint
Laurence. Pass to the American Coast. Cape Derby. Bald Head.
Cape Denbigh, on a Peninsula. Besborough Island. Wood and
Water procured. Visits from the Natives. Their Persons and
Habitations. Produce of the Country. Marks that the Peninsula
had formerly been surrounded by the Sea. Lieutenant King's
Report. Norton Sound. Lunar Observations there. Stæhlin's Map
proved to be erroneous. Plan of future Operations, 353
XI. Discoveries after leaving Norton Sound. Stuart's Island.
Cape Stephens. Point Shallow-Water. Shoals on the American
Coast. Clerke's Island. Gore's Island. Pinnacle Island.
Arrival at Oonalashka. Intercourse with the Natives
and Russian Traders. Charts of the Russian Discoveries,
communicated by Mr Ismyloff. Their Errors pointed out.
Situation of the Islands visited by the Russians. Account of
their Settlement at Oonalashka. Of the Natives of the Island.
Their Persons. Dress. Ornaments. Food. Houses and domestic
Utensils. Manufactures. Manner of producing Fire. Canoes.
Fishing and Hunting Implements. Fishes, and Sea Animals. Sea
and Water Fowls, and Land Birds. Land Animals and Vegetables.
Manner of burying the Dead. Resemblance of the Natives on
this Side of America to the Greenlanders and Esquimaux. Tides.
Observations for determining the Longitude of Oonalashka. 369
XII. Departure from Oonalashka, and future Views. The Island
Amoghta. Situation of a remarkable Rock. Strait between
Oonalashka and Oonella repassed. Progress to the South.
Melancholy Accident on board the Discovery. Mowee, one of the
Sandwich Islands, discovered. Intercourse with the Natives.
Visit from Terreeoboo. Another Island, called Owhyhee,
discovered. The Ships ply to Windward to get round it.
An Eclipse of the Moon observed. The Crew refuse to drink
Sugar-cane Beer. Cordage deficient in Strength. Commendation
of the Natives of Owhyhee. The Resolution gets to Windward of
the Island. Her Progress down the South-East Coast. Views of
the Country, and Visits from the Natives. The Discovery joins.
Slow Progress Westward. Karakakooa Bay examined by Mr Bligh.
Vast Concourse of the Natives. The Ships anchor in the Bay,
402
CHAP. V. Captain King's Journal of the Transactions on Returning to
the Sandwich Islands, 421
SECT.
I. Description of Karakakooa Bay. Vast Concourse of the
Natives. Power of the Chiefs over the Inferior People.
Visit from Koah, a Priest and Warrior. The Morai at Kakooa
described. Ceremonies at the Landing of Captain Cook.
Observatories erected. Powerful Operation of the Taboo. Method
of Salting Pork in Tropical Climates. Society of Priests
discovered. Their Hospitality and Munificence. Reception of
Captain Cook. Artifice of Koah. Arrival of Terreeoboo, King of
the Island. Returned by Captain Cook, 421
II. Farther Account of Transactions with the Natives. Their
Hospitality. Propensity to Theft. Description of a Boxing
Match. Death of one of our Seamen. Behaviour of the Priests at
his Funeral. The Wood Work and Images on the Morai purchased.
The Natives inquisitive about our Departure. Their Opinion
about the Design of our Voyage. Magnificent Presents of
Terreeoboo to Captain Cook. The Ships leave the Island. The
Resolution damaged in a Gale, and obliged to return, 434
III. Suspicious Behaviour of the Natives, on our Return
to Karakakooa Bay. Theft on Board the Discovery, and its
Consequences. The Pinnace attacked, and the Crew obliged to
quit her. Captain Cook's Observations on the Occasion. Attempt
at the Observatory. The Cutter of the Discovery stolen.
Measures taken by Captain Cook for its Recovery. Goes on Shore
to invite the King on Board. The King being stopped by his
Wife and the Chiefs, a Contest arises. News arrives of one of
the Chiefs being killed by one of our People. Ferment on this
Occasion. One of the Chiefs threatens Captain Cook, and is
shot by him. General Attack by the Natives. Death of Captain
Cook. Account of the Captain's Services, and a Sketch of his
Character, 446
IV. Transactions at Owhyhee subsequent to the Death of
Captain Cook. Gallant Behaviour of the Lieutenant of Marines.
Dangerous Situation of the Party at the Morai. Bravery of
one of the Natives. Consultation respecting future Measures.
Demand of the Body of Captain Cook. Evasive and insidious
Conduct of Koah and the Chiefs. Insolent Behaviour of the
Natives. Promotion of Officers. Arrival of two Priests with
Part of the Body. Extraordinary Behaviour of two Boys. Burning
of the Village of Kakooa. Unfortunate Destruction of the
Dwellings of the Priests. Recovery of the Bones of Captain
Cook. Departure from Karakakooa Bay, 460
V. Departure from Karakakooa in Search of a Harbour on the
South-East Side of Mowee. Driven to Leeward by the Easterly
Winds and Current. Pass the Island of Tahoorowha. Description
of the South-West Side of Mowee. Run along the Coasts of Ranai
and Morotoi to Woahoo. Description of the North-East Coast
of Woahoo. Unsuccessful Attempt to Water. Passage to Atooi.
Anchor in Wymoa Bay. Dangerous Situation of the Watering Party
on Shore. Civil Dissensions in the Islands. Visit from the
contending Chiefs. Anchor off Oneeheow. Final Departure from
the Sandwich Islands, 492
A
GENERAL HISTORY,
AND
COLLECTION
OF
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
* * * * *
PART III. BOOK III. (CONTINUED.)
* * * * *
CHAPTER III.
TRANSACTIONS AT OTAHEITE, AND THE SOCIETY ISLANDS; AND PROSECUTION OF
THE VOYAGE TO THE COAST OF NORTH AMERICA.
SECTION I.
_An Eclipse of the Moon observed.--The Island Toobouai
discovered.--Its Situation, Extent, and Appearance.--Intercourse
with its Inhabitants.--Their Persons, Dresses, and Canoes
described.--Arrival at Oheitepeha Bay, at Otaheite.--Omai's Reception
and imprudent Conduct.--Account of Spanish Ships twice visiting the
Island.--Interview with the Chief of this District.--The Olla, or God,
of Bolabola.--A mad Prophet.--Arrival in Matavai Bay._
Having, as before related,[1] taken our final leave of the Friendly
Islands, I now resume my narrative of the voyage. In the evening of
the 17th of July, at eight o'clock, the body of Eaoo bore N.E. by
N., distant three or four leagues. The wind was now at E., and blew
a fresh gale. With it I stood to the S., till half an hour past
six o'clock the next morning, when a sudden squall, from the same
direction, took our ship aback; and, before the sails could be trimmed
on the other tack, the main-sail and the top-gallant sails were much
torn.
[Footnote 1: See the conclusion of Sect. IX. Chap. II.]
The wind kept between the S.W. and S.E., on the 19th and 20th,
afterward, it veered to the E., N.E., and N. The night between the
20th and 21st, an eclipse of the moon was observed as follows, being
then in the latitude of 22° 57-1/2' S.:
Apparent time, A.M.
H.M.S.
Beginning, by Mr King, at 0 32 50 |
Mr Bligh, at 0 33 25 > Mean long. 186° 57-1/2'.
Myself, at 0 33 35 |
End, by Mr King at 1 44 56 | Mean long. 186° 28-1/2'.
Mr Bligh at 1 44 6 > Time keep. 186° 58-1/2'.
Myself, at 1 44 56 |
The latitude and longitude are those of the ship, at 8^h 56^m a.m.,
being the time when the sun's altitude was taken for finding the
apparent time. At the beginning of the eclipse, the moon was in
the zenith, so that it was found most convenient to make use of the
sextants, and to make the observations by the reflected image, which
was brought down to a convenient altitude. The same was done at the
end, except by Mr King, who observed with a night telescope. Although
the greatest difference between our several observations is no
more than fifty seconds, it, nevertheless, appeared to me that
two observers might differ more than double that time, in both the
beginning and end. And, though the times are noted to seconds, no such
accuracy was pretended to. The odd seconds set down above, arose by
reducing the time, as given by the watch, to apparent time.
I continued to stretch to the E.S.E., with the wind at N.E. and N.,
without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till seven o'clock in
the evening of the 29th, when we had a sudden and very heavy squall
of wind from the N. At this time we were under single reefed topsails,
courses, and stay-sails. Two of the latter were blown to pieces,
and it was with difficulty that we saved the other sails. After
this squall, we observed several lights moving about on board the
Discovery, by which we concluded, that something had given way; and,
the next morning, we saw that her main-top-mast had been lost. Both
wind and weather continued very unsettled till noon, this day, when
the latter cleared up, and the former settled in the N.W. quarter. At
this time, we were in the latitude of 28° 6' S., and our longitude was
198° 23' E. Here we saw some pintado birds, being the first since we
left the land.
On the 31st, at noon, Captain Clerke made a signal to speak with me.
By the return of the boat which I sent on board his ship, he informed
me, that the head of the main-mast had been just discovered to be
sprung, in such a manner as to render the rigging of another top-mast
very dangerous; and that, therefore, he must rig something lighter
in its place. He also informed me, that he had lost his
main-top-gallant-yard, and that he neither had another, nor a spar to
make one, on board. The Resolution's sprit-sail top-sail yard which I
sent him, supplied this want. The next day, he got up a jury top-mast,
on which he set a mizen-top-sail, and this enabled him to keep way
with the Resolution.
The wind was fixed in the western board, that is, from the N., round
by the W. to S., and I steered E.N.E. and N.E., without meeting with
anything remarkable, till eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th
of August, when land was seen, bearing N.N.E., nine or ten leagues
distant. At first, it appeared in detached hills, like so many
separate islands; but, as we drew nearer, we found that they were all
connected, and belonged to one and the same island. I steered directly
for it, with a fine gale at S.E. by S.; and at half-past six o'clock
in the afternoon, it extended from N. by E., to N.N.E. 3/4 E., distant
three or four leagues.
The night was spent standing off and on; and at day-break the next
morning, I steered for the N.W., or lee-side of the island; and as we
stood round its S. or S.W. part, we saw it every where guarded by a
reef of coral rock, extending, in some places, a full mile from the
land, and a high surf breaking upon it. Some thought that they
saw land to the southward of this island; but, as that was to the
windward, it was left undetermined. As we drew near, we saw people on
different parts of the coast, walking, or running along the shore, and
in a little time after we had reached the lee-side of the island,
we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and
paddled toward us.
I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up
with us, as to sound for anchorage. At the distance of about half a
mile from the reef, we found from forty to thirty-five fathoms water,
over a bottom of fine sand. Nearer in, the bottom was strewed with
coral rocks. The canoes having advanced to about the distance of a
pistol-shot from the ship, there stopped. Omai was employed, as
he usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence to
prevail upon the men in them to come nearer; but no entreaties could
induce them to trust themselves within our reach. They kept eagerly
pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling to us to go
thither; and several of their countrymen who stood upon the beach held
up something white, which we considered also as an invitation to land.
We could very well have done this, as there was good anchorage without
the reef, and a break or opening in it, from whence the canoes had
come out, which had no surf upon it, and where, if there was not water
for the ships, there was more than sufficient for the boats. But I did
not think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the
sake of examining an island that appeared to be of little consequence.
We stood in no need of refreshments, if I had been sure of meeting
with them there; and having already been so unexpectedly delayed in
my progress to the Society Islands, I was desirous of avoiding every
possibility of farther retardment. For this reason, after making
several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come
alongside, I made sail to the N., and left them, but not without
getting from them, during their vicinity to our ship, the name of
their island, which they called Toobouai.
It is situated in the latitude of 23° 25' S., and in 210 37' E.
longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the
reef, is not above five or six miles. On the N.W. side, the reef
appears in detached pieces, between which the sea seems to break
upon the shore. Small as the island is, there are hills in it of a
considerable elevation. At the foot of the hills, is a narrow border
of flat land, running quite round it, edged with a white sand beach.
The hills are covered with grass, or some other herbage, except a few
steep rocky cliffs at one part, with patches of trees interspersed to
their summits. But the plantations are more numerous in some of the
vallies, and the flat border is quite covered with high, strong trees,
whose different kinds we could not discern, except some cocoa-palms,
and a few of the _etoa_. According to the information of the men in
the canoes, their island is stocked with hogs and fowls, and produces
the several fruits and roots that are found at the other islands in
this part of the Pacific Ocean.
We had an opportunity, from the conversation we had with those who
came off to us, of satisfying ourselves, that the inhabitants of
Toobouai speak the Otaheite language, a circumstance that indubitably
proves them to be of the same nation. Those of them whom we saw in the
canoes were a stout copper-coloured people, with straight black hair,
which some of them wore tied in a bunch on the crown of the head, and
others flowing about the shoulders. Their faces were somewhat round
and full, but the features, upon the whole, rather flat, and their
countenances seemed to express some degree of natural ferocity. They
had no covering but a piece of narrow stuff wrapped about the waist,
and made to pass between the thighs, to cover the adjoining parts;
but some of those whom we saw upon the beach, where about a hundred
persons had assembled, were entirely clothed with a kind of white
garment. We could observe, that some of our visitors in the canoes
wore pearl shells hang about the neck as an ornament. One of them kept
blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed near two feet long
was fixed; at first, with a continued tone of the same kind, but he
afterward converted it into a kind of musical instrument, perpetually
repeating two or three notes, with the same strength. What the blowing
the conch portended, I cannot say, but I never found it the messenger
of peace.
Their canoes appeared to be about thirty feet long, and two feet above
the surface of the water, as they floated. The fore part projected a
little, and had a notch cut across, as if intended to represent the
mouth of some animal. The after part rose, with a gentle curve, to the
height of two or three feet, turning gradually smaller, and, as well
as the upper part of the sides, was carved all over. The rest of the
sides, which were perpendicular, were curiously incrustated with flat
white shells, disposed nearly in concentric semicircles, with the
curve upward. One of the canoes carried seven, and the other eight
men, and they were managed with small paddles, whose blades were
nearly round. Each of them had a pretty long outrigger; and they
sometimes paddled, with the two opposite sides together so close, that
they seemed to be one boat with two outriggers, the rowers turning
their faces occasionally to the stern, and pulling that way, without
paddling the canoes round. When they saw us determined to leave them,
they stood up in their canoes, and repeated something very loudly in
concert, but we could not tell whether this was meant as a mark of
their friendship or enmity. It is certain, however, that they had no
weapons with them, nor could we perceive with our glasses that those
on shore had any.[2]
[Footnote 2: This is the island on which Fletcher Christian, chief
mutineer of the Bounty, attempted to form a settlement in 1789, as we
shall have occasion to notice when treating of another voyage.--E.]
After leaving this island, from the discovery of which future
navigators may possibly derive some advantage, I steered to the N.
with a fresh gale at E. by S., and, at day-break in the morning of
the 12th, we saw the island of Maitea. Soon after, Otaheite made its
appearance; and at noon, it extended from S.W. by W. to W.N.W.; the
point of Oheitepeha bay bearing W., about four leagues distant. I
steered for this bay, intending to anchor there, in order to draw what
refreshments I could from the S.E. part of the island, before I went
down to Matavai, from the neighbourhood of which station I expected
my principal supply. We had a fresh gale easterly, till two o'clock
in the afternoon, when, being about a league from the bay, the wind
suddenly died away, and was succeeded by baffling light airs from
every direction, and calms by turns. This lasted about two hours. Then
we had sudden squalls, with rain, from the E. These carried us before
the bay, where we got a breeze from the land, and attempted in vain
to work in to gain the anchoring-place. So that at last about nine
o'clock, we were obliged to stand out, and to spend the night at sea.
When we first drew near the island, several canoes came off to the
ship, each conducted by two or three men; but, as they were common
fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. They
did not even seem to perceive that he was one of their countrymen,
although they conversed with him for some time. At length, a chief
whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who
chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four
more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain
Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing either tender or
striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed to be a
perfect indifference on both sides, till Omai, having taken his
brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red
feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known amongst
the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely
turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged
that they might be _tayos_ (friends), and exchange names. Omai
accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red
feathers, and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. But
it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but
his property, they were in love with. Had he not shewn to them
his treasure of red feathers, which is the commodity in greatest
estimation at the island, I question much whether they would have
bestowed even a cocoa-nut upon him. Such was Omai's first reception
amongst his countrymen. I own, I never expected it would be otherwise;
but still I was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents with
which the liberality of his friends in England had loaded him, would
be the means of raising him into consequence, and of making him
respected, and even courted by the first persons throughout the extent
of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had he
conducted himself with any degree of prudence; but, instead of it, I
am sorry to say that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice
of those who wished him well, and suffered himself to be duped by
every designing knave. From the natives who came off to us, in
the course of this day, we learnt that two ships had twice been in
Oheitepeha Bay, since my last visit to this island in 1774, and that
they had left animals there such as we had on board. But, on farther
enquiry, we found they were only hogs, dogs, goats, one bull, and the
male of some other animal, which, from the imperfect description now
given us, we could not find out. They told us that these ships had
come from a place called _Reema_, by which we guessed that Lima,
the capital of Peru, was meant, and that these late visitors were
Spaniards. We were informed that the first time they came, they built
a house, and left four men behind them, viz. two priests, a boy or
servant, and a fourth person called Mateema, who was much spoken of
at this time, carrying away with them, when they sailed, four of
the natives; that, in about ten months, the same two ships returned,
bringing back two of the islanders, the other two having died at Lima,
and that, after a short stay, they took away their own people; but
that the house which they had built was left standing.
The important news of red feathers being on board our ships, having
been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to
break, next morning, than we were surrounded by a multitude of canoes,
crowded with people, bringing hogs and fruits to market. At first,
a quantity of feathers, not greater than what might be got from a
tom-tit, would purchase a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight. But, as
almost every body in the ships was possessed of some of this precious
article of trade, it fell in its value above five hundred per cent.
before night. However, even then, the balance was much in our favour,
and red feathers continued to preserve their superiority over every
other commodity. Some of the natives would not part with a hog, unless
they received an axe in exchange; but nails and beads, and other
trinkets, which, during our former voyages, had so great a run at this
island, were now so much despised, that few would deign so much as to
look at them.
There being but little wind all the morning, it was nine o'clock
before we could get to an anchor in the bay, where we moored with the
two bowers. Soon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board
to see him. I was happy to observe, that, much to the honour of them
both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest
affection, easier to be conceived than to be described.
This moving scene having closed, and the ship being properly moored,
Omai and I went ashore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man
whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage indeed,
for he said that he was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under
one of those small awnings which they usually carry in their larger
canoes. He was an elderly man, and had lost the use of his limbs,
so that he was carried from place to place upon a hand-barrow.
Some called him _Olla_, or _Orra_, which is the name of the god of
Bolabola, but his own proper name was Etary. From Omai's account of
this person, I expected to have seen some religious adoration paid to
him. But, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before him, and
upon the awning under which he sat, I could observe nothing by which
he might be distinguished from their other chiefs. Omai presented to
him a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick; but,
after a little conversation on indifferent matters with this Bolabola
man, his attention was drawn to an old woman, the sister of his
mother. She was already at his feet, and had bedewed them plentifully
with tears of joy.
I left him with the old lady, in the midst of a number of people who
had gathered round him, and went to take a view of the house said
to be built by the strangers who had lately been here. I found it
standing at a small distance from the beach. The wooden materials
of which it was composed seemed to have been brought hither, ready
prepared, to be set up occasionally; for all the planks were numbered.
It was divided into two small rooms; and in the inner one were a
bedstead, a table, a bench, some old hats, and other trifles, of which
the natives seemed to be very careful, as also of the house itself,
which had suffered no hurt from the weather, a shed having been built
over it. There were scuttles all around, which served as air holes;
and, perhaps, they were also meant to fire from with muskets, if ever
this should have been found necessary. At a little distance from the
front stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which was cut
the following inscription:
_Christus vincit._
And on the perpendicular part (which confirmed our conjecture that the
two ships were Spanish),
_Carolus_ III. _imperat._ 1774.
On the other side of the post I preserved the memory of the prior
visits of the English, by inscribing,
_Georgius Tertius Rex,
Annis_ 1767,
1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.
The natives pointed out to us, near the foot of the cross, the grave
of the commodore of the two ships, who had died here while they lay in
the bay the first time. His name, as they pronounced it, was Oreede.
Whatever the intentions of the Spaniards in visiting this island might
be, they seemed to have taken great pains to ingratiate themselves
with the inhabitants, who, upon every occasion, mentioned them with
the strongest expressions of esteem, and veneration.
I met with no chief of any considerable note on this occasion,
excepting the extraordinary personage above described. Waheiadooa, the
sovereign of Tiaraboo (as this part of the island is called), was now
absent; and I afterward found that he was not the same person, though
of the same name with the chief whom I had seen here during my last
voyage; but his brother, a boy of about ten years of age, who had
succeeded upon the death of the elder Waheiadooa, about twenty months
before our arrival. We also learned that the celebrated Oberea was
dead; but that Otoo and all our other friends were living.
When I returned from viewing the house and cross erected by the
Spaniards, I found Omai holding forth to a large company; and it was
with some difficulty that he could be got away to accompany me on
board, where I had an important affair to settle.
As I knew that Otaheite, and the neighbouring islands, could furnish
us with a plentiful supply of cocoa-nuts, the liquor of which is an
excellent _succedaneum_ for any artificial beverage, I was desirous of
prevailing upon my people to consent to be abridged, during our stay
here, of their stated allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as
this stoppage of a favourite article, without assigning some reason,
might have occasioned a general murmur, I thought it most prudent to
assemble the ship's company, and to make known to them the intent of
the voyage, and the extent of our future operations. To induce them to
undertake which with cheerfulness and perseverance, I took notice of
the rewards offered by parliament to such of his majesty's subjects as
shall first discover a communication between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans, in any direction whatever, in the northern hemisphere; and
also to such as shall first penetrate beyond the 39th degree of
northern latitude. I made no doubt, I told them, that I should find
them willing to co-operate with me in attempting, as far as might be
possible, to become entitled to one or both these rewards; but that,
to give us the best chance of succeeding, it would be necessary
to observe the utmost economy in the expenditure of our stores and
provisions, particularly the latter, as there was no probability
of getting a supply any where, after leaving these islands. I
strengthened my argument by reminding them that our voyage must last
at least a year longer than had been originally supposed, by our
having already lost the opportunity of getting to the north this
summer. I begged them to consider the various obstructions and
difficulties we might still meet with, and the aggravated hardships
they would labour under, if it should be found necessary to put them
to short allowance of any species of provisions, in a cold climate.
For these very substantial reasons, I submitted to them whether it
would not be better to be prudent in time, and rather than to run
the risk of having no spirits left, when such a cordial would be
most wanted, to consent to be without their grog now, when we had so
excellent a liquor as that of cocoa-nuts to substitute in its place;
but that, after all, I left the determination entirely to their own
choice.
I had the satisfaction to find that this proposal did not remain
a single moment under consideration; being unanimously approved of
immediately, without any objection. I ordered Captain Clerk to
make the same proposal to his people, which they also agreed to.
Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on Saturday nights, when
the companies of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might
drink the healths of their female friends in England, lest these,
amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten.[3]
[Footnote 3: If it is to be judged of by its effects, certainly
the most suitable test of excellence, we must allow that in this
particular instance, Captain Cook displayed true eloquence. The merit,
indeed, is not inconsiderable, of inducing so great a sacrifice as his
crew now made; and, on the other hand, due commendation ought to be
allowed to their docility. This incident altogether is exceedingly
striking, and might, one should think, be very advantageously studied
by all who are in authority over vulgar minds.--E.]
The next day, we began some necessary operations; to inspect the
provisions that were in the main and fore-hold; to get the casks of
beef and pork, and the coals out of the ground tier, and to put some
ballast in their place. The caulkers were set to work to caulk the
ship, which she stood in great need of, having at times made much
water on our passage from the Friendly Islands. I also put on shore
the bull, cows, horses, and sheep, and appointed two men to look after
them while grazing; for I did not intend to leave any of them at this
part of the island.
During the two following days, it hardly ever ceased raining. The
natives, nevertheless, came to us from every quarter, the news of our
arrival having rapidly spread. Waheiadooa, though at a distance, had
been informed of it; and, in the afternoon of the 16th, a chief, named
Etorea, under whose tutorage he was, brought me two hogs as a present
from him, and acquainted me that he himself would be with us the day
after. And so it proved; for I received a message from him the next
morning, notifying his arrival, and desiring I would go ashore to meet
him. Accordingly, Omai and I prepared to pay him a formal visit. On
this occasion, Omai, assisted by some of his friends, dressed himself,
not after the English fashion, nor that of Otaheite, nor that of
Tongataboo, nor in the dress of any country upon earth, but in a
strange medley of all that he was possessed of.
Thus equipped, on our landing, we first visited Etary, who, carried
on a hand-barrow, attended us to a large house, where he was set
down, and we seated ourselves on each side of him. I caused a piece
of Tongataboo cloth to be spread out before us, on which I laid the
presents I intended to make. Presently the young chief came, attended
by his mother, and several principal men, who all seated themselves at
the other end of the cloth, facing us. Then a man, who sat by me, made
a speech, consisting of short and separate sentences, part of which
was dictated by those about him. He was answered by one from the
opposite side, near the chief. Etary spoke next, then Omai, and both
of them were answered from the same quarter. These orations were
entirely about my arrival, and connexions with them. The person who
spoke last told me, among other things, that the men of _Reema_, that
is, the Spaniards, had desired them not to suffer me to come into
Oheitepeha Bay, if I should return any more to the island, for that it
belonged to them; but that they were so far from paying any regard to
this request, that he was authorised now to make a formal surrender of
the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it; which marks
very plainly that these people are no strangers to the policy of
accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length, the
young chief was directed by his attendants to come and embrace me,
and, by way of confirming this treaty of friendship, we exchanged
names. The ceremony being closed, he and his friends accompanied me on
board to dinner.
Omai had prepared a _maro_, composed of red and yellow feathers, which
he intended for Otoo, the king of the whole island; and, considering
where we were, it was a present of very great value. I said all that I
could to persuade him not to produce it now, wishing him to keep it on
board till an opportunity should offer of presenting it to Otoo with
his own hands. But he had too good an opinion of the honesty and
fidelity of his countrymen to take my advice. Nothing would serve him
but to carry it ashore on this occasion, and to give it to Waheiadooa,
to be by him forwarded to Otoo, in order to its being added to the
royal _maro_. He thought by this management that he should oblige both
chiefs; whereas he highly disobliged the one, whose favour was of the
most consequence to him, without gaining any reward from the other.
What I had foreseen happened, for Waheiadooa kept the _maro_ for
himself, and only sent to Otoo a very small piece of feathers, not the
twentieth part of what belonged to the magnificent present.
On the 19th, this young chief made me a present of ten or a dozen
hogs, a quantity of fruit, and some cloth. In the evening, we played
off some fire-works, which both astonished and entertained the
numerous spectators.
This day, some of our gentlemen in their walks found what they were
pleased to call a Roman Catholic chapel. Indeed, from their account,
this was not to be doubted, for they described the altar, and every
other constituent part of such a place of worship. However, as they
mentioned, at the same time, that two men who had the care of it,
would not suffer them to go in, I thought that they might be mistaken,
and had the curiosity to pay a visit to it myself. The supposed
chapel proved to be a _toopapaoo_, in which the remains of the late
Waheiadooa lay, as it were, in state. It was in a pretty large
house, which was inclosed with a low pallisade. The _toopapaoo_ was
uncommonly neat, and resembled one of those little houses or awnings
belonging to their large canoes. Perhaps it had originally been
employed for that purpose. It was covered and hung round with cloth
and mats of different colours, so as to have a pretty effect. There
was one piece of scarlet broad-cloth, four or five yards in length,
conspicuous among the other ornaments, which, no doubt, had been a
present from the Spaniards. This cloth, and a few tassels of feathers,
which our gentlemen supposed to be silk, suggested to them the idea
of a chapel, for, whatever else was wanting to create a resemblance,
their imagination supplied; and, if they had not previously known that
there had been Spaniards lately here, they could not possibly have
made the mistake. Small offerings of fruit and roots seemed to be
daily made at this shrine, as some pieces were quite fresh. These
were deposited upon a _whatta_, or altar, which stood without the
pallisades; and within these we were not permitted to enter. Two men
constantly attended night and day, not only to watch over the place,
but also to dress and undress the _toopapaoo_. For when I first went
to survey it, the cloth and its appendages were all rolled up; but,
at my request, the two attendants hung it out in order, first dressing
themselves in clean white robes. They told me that the chief had been
dead twenty months.
Having taken in a fresh supply of water, and finished all our other
necessary operations, on the 22d, I brought off the cattle and sheep
which had been put on shore here to graze, and made ready for sea.
In the morning of the 23d, while the ships were unmooring, Omai and I
landed to take leave of the young chief. While we were with him,
one of those enthusiastic persons whom they call _Eatooas_, from a
persuasion that they are possessed with the spirit of the divinity,
came and stood before us. He had all the appearance of a man not in
his right senses; and his only dress was a large quantity of plantain
leaves, wrapped round his waist. He spoke in a low squeaking voice, so
as hardly to be understood, at least not by me. But Omai said that he
comprehended him perfectly, and that he was advising Waheiadooa not to
go with me to Matavai; an expedition which I had never heard that he
intended, nor had I ever made such a proposal to him. The _Eatooa_
also foretold that the ships would not get to Matavai that day. But
in this he was mistaken; though appearances now rather favoured his
prediction, there not being a breath of wind in any direction. While
he was prophesying, there fell a very heavy shower of rain, which made
every one run for shelter but himself, who seemed not to regard it. He
remained squeaking by us about half an hour, and then retired. No one
paid any attention to what he uttered, though some laughed at him. I
asked the chief what he was, whether an _Earee_, or a _Toutou_? and
the answer I received was, that he was _taata eno_; that is, a bad
man. And yet, notwithstanding this, and the little notice any of the
natives seemed to take of the mad prophet, superstition has so far got
the better of their reason, that they firmly believe such persons to
be possessed with the spirit of the _Eatooa_. Omai seemed to be very
well instructed about them. He said that, during the fits that
come upon them, they know nobody, not even their most intimate
acquaintances; and that, if any one of them happens to be a man of
property, he will very often give away every moveable he is possessed
of, if his friends do not put them out of his reach; and, when he
recovers, will enquire what had become of those very things which
he had but just before distributed, not seeming to have the least
remembrance of what he had done while the fit was upon him.[4]
[Footnote 4: What is the origin of that singular notion which is found
amongst the lower orders in most countries, that divine inspiration
is often consequent on temporary or continued derangement? Surely it
cannot be derived from any correct opinions respecting the Author of
truth and knowledge. We must ascribe it, then, to ignorance, and
some feeling of dread as to his power; or rather perhaps, we ought
to consider it as the hasty offspring of surprise, on the occasional
display of reason, even in a common degree, where the faculties are
understood to be disordered. Still it is singular, that the observers
should have recourse for explanation to so injurious and so improbable
a supposition, as that of supernatural agency. What has often, been
said of sol-lunar and astral influence on the human mind, the opinion
of which is pretty widely spread over the world, may be interpreted
so as perfectly to agree with the theoretical solution of the question
now proposed, the heavenly bodies being amongst the first and the most
generally established objects of religious apprehension and worship.
It is curious enough, that what may be called the converse of the
proposition, viz. that derangement follows or is accompanied with
inspiration, whether religious or common, should almost as extensively
have formed a part of the popular creed. The reason of this notion
again, is not altogether the same as that of the former; it has its
origin probably in the observation, that enthusiasm with respect to
any one subject, which, in the present case, is to be regarded as the
appearance or expression of inspiration, usually unfits a person
for the requisite attention to any other. The language of mankind
accordingly quite falls in with this observation, and nothing is more
general than to speak of a man being mad, who exhibits a more than
ordinary ardour in the pursuit of some isolated object. Still,
however, there seems a tacit acknowledgement amongst mankind, that the
human mind can profitably attend to only one thing at a time, and
that all excellence in any pursuit is the result of restricted
unintermitting application: And hence it is, that enthusiasm, though
perhaps admitted to be allied to one of the highest evils with
which our nature can be visited, is nevertheless imagined to be an
indication of superior strength of intellect. The weakest minds,
on the contrary, are the most apprehensive of ridicule, and in
consequence are most cautious, by a seeming indifference as to
objects, to avoid the dangerous imputation of a decided partiality.
Such persons, however, forming undoubtedly the greater portion
of every society, console themselves and one another under the
consciousness of debility, by the sense of their safety, and by the
fashionable custom of dealing out wise reflections on those more
enterprising minds, whose eccentricities or ardour, provoke their
admiration.--E.]
As soon as I got on board, a light breeze springing up at east, we got
under sail, and steered for Matavai Bay, where the Resolution anchored
the same evening. But the Discovery did not get in till the next
morning; so that half of the man's prophecy was fulfilled.