In buying dried tongues, choose those that are thick and plump, and
that have the smoothest skins. They are the most likely to be young and
tender.
A smoked tongue should soak in cold water at least all night. One that
is very hard and dry will require twenty-four hours' soaking. When you
boil it put it into a pot full of cold water. Set it over a slow fire
that it may heat gradually for an hour before it comes to a boil. Then
keep it simmering from three and a half to four hours, according to its
size and age. Probe it with a fork, and do not take it up till it is
tender throughout. Send it to table with mashed potato laid round it,
and garnish with parsley. Do not split it in half when you dish it,
as is the practice with some cooks. Cutting it lengthways spoils the
flavour, and renders it comparatively insipid.
If you wish to serve up the tongue very handsomely, rub it with yolk
of egg after you take it from the pot, and strew over it grated bread
crumbs; baste it with butter, and set it before the fire till it
becomes of a light brown. Cover the root (which is always an unsightly
object) with thick sprigs of double parsley; and (instead of mashed
potato) lay slices of currant jelly all round the tongue.