PLANTING AND STAKING TREES
A few words of advice upon these important subjects will be helpful.
When planting a tree, prepare the ground beforehand, so that when the
trees arrive they can be put at once into their proper places without
having to be laid in. If the trees are to be planted thickly, trench the
ground to a depth of at least 2 feet, keeping the top spit to the top
all the while, merely burying the turf if there is any. If the soil is
poor, enrich it during the trenching. If possible this trenching should
be done the spring previous to the planting of the trees, and the ground
cropped with Potatoes or Cabbages to keep down weeds during summer. If
the trees are to be planted wide apart or as isolated specimens, make
large holes, varying in diameter from 6 to 10 feet, these being trenched
2 or 2-1/2 feet deep and filled in again to within 1 foot of the
surface. The shape of the hole is a small matter, round or square being
equally good. In some instances, however, especially when a tree is
being moved with a large mass of soil, a square hole will be found
handier than a round one, on account of the additional room given by the
corners.
The time to plant is of much importance, for though deciduous trees may
be transplanted throughout winter, October, November, February, and
March are preferable to December or January. October and November are
the two best months, as then the ground is warm and root action begins
before winter sets in.
If the trees are simply to be transplanted from one position in the
garden to another, the work may be begun in the case of deciduous trees
as soon as the leaves turn colour and commence to fall. In lifting, take
care not to injure the roots. When putting the spade into the ground the
edge should be to the tree, not the face. Digging must begin at a
reasonable distance from the tree, and if a ball of soil is not
required, the soil should be forked from between the roots into a trench
which has previously been made round the stem. If, while lifting, any of
the main roots have suffered, cut the injured parts away with a sharp
knife and tar over the wounds. When planting, the tree should be stood
in the hole, and a stick laid across the top of the hole near the tree
to ascertain whether the depth is right, sufficient space for an inch of
soil over the uppermost root being allowed. The centre of the hole
should be filled in slightly higher than the sides, and on the little
mound the tree should be stood, laying the roots out carefully all
round. When filling the soil in, some fine material should be worked in
among the roots with the hand, and before the hole is fully filled in
give a good watering; this has the effect of settling the soil well
about the roots. The amount of ramming necessary depends on the
consistency of the soil. After a tree is planted in early autumn a
mulching of rotten manure may be given, but if the planting is done in
spring the mulching is better left until early summer when the ground
has become warmed.
[Illustration: _STAKING TREES._]
After planting, staking, where necessary, should be attended to. It is
not necessary to stake every tree that is planted. When it is sturdy,
with a well-balanced head and set of roots, and the position is not
exposed to rough winds, staking is needless. If, however, the stem is
weak or the roots are mostly on one side, not spread round the tree, or
the position is very exposed, staking for a time will be necessary. In
the case of young trees little difficulty will be experienced, as good
straight stakes can be easily got. As a rule, one stake is quite enough
for a tree, and that should be driven in as close as possible to the
trunk without injuring it or the roots. To the stake the tree should be
secured with wire or stout tar string, using thin cushions of felt,
leather, or old hose-pipe to keep the wire or string from cutting into
the bark. Allow a little room between the stem and stake for growth. Two
or three ties are usually sufficient, and these should be examined and
loosened once or twice a year until the stakes can be dispensed with.
The habit of putting in stakes in such a way that they cross the trunk,
and that when the wind blows there is sufficient play for the stem and
the stake to rub against each other, is a bad one, the chafing often
causing serious wounds. In exposed situations, or when there is danger
of the tree rocking about and becoming loose at the collar, put in three
stakes in the form of a triangle, the stem fitting in the space left
between the three stakes at the top, while the bottoms of the stakes
extend some 2 or 3 feet from the tree. For this purpose wires fastened
to stakes driven in the ground are useful, and neater than stout stakes.
When wires are used, however, take care to provide a good soft pad
between the tree and the wire. For trees with large heads, or those not
well furnished with roots, this way of staking will be found very
useful. When inserting stakes they should be properly sharpened for the
sake of straight driving. The staking of trees which have the lower
parts of their trunks straight and their leaders crooked differs from
other staking, as the stakes should not be driven into the ground, but
tied firmly to the trunk below the bend, the leader being then drawn to
the stake. In all cases, however, where staking is done the stakes
should be removed as soon as the trees are able to do without them. A
stake is not beautiful. There is always the chance of the tying material
being left a little too long without examination, and therefore it cuts
into the bark. Ties also harbour insects.