HARDY SHRUBS IN THE GREENHOUSE
Hardy shrubs have for many years brought colour and fragrance to the
greenhouse in the depth of winter, but we think it is only within recent
years that they have been used in such beautiful variety as at the
present time. The great show of the Royal Horticultural Society in the
Temple Gardens, and many of the delightful fortnightly displays, have
been responsible for much of their present popularity, and the picture
of a group of Plums, Peaches, Almonds, Wistarias, and many other things
in flower long before their natural season, is refreshingly pleasant
when perhaps winter still lingers.
So many shrub families may be used for gently forcing into bloom before
their time that it is impossible to lay down hard and fast rules with
regard to culture. In some cases the plants may be lifted in the autumn,
then potted, and placed out of doors until they are removed under glass,
when the flowers will open in profusion; but the shrubs that can be
treated in this way make dense, fibrous masses of roots, therefore
scarcely feel the check of removal. Some shrubs, however, transplant so
badly that it is needful to grow them entirely in pots.
Shrubs for flowering under glass are grown in large quantities by the
English nurserymen, and very beautiful they are when in flower, bringing
the beauty of early summer to the opening days of spring. Many grow
their plants in pots, the general method being what may be regarded as a
modification of pot culture and planting out, that is to say, although
the plants are potted, and that in fairly large pots, they are plunged
in the open ground over the rim of the pot, and in a position fully
exposed to air and sunshine. Although a few roots may be pushed out over
the rim, and also through the hole in the bottom, this treatment has the
effect of keeping them far more compact than would otherwise be the
case, hence the check of removal is not so great as if they have
unlimited room. This partial confinement of the roots checks a too
luxuriant growth and promotes flower-bud formation.
In the cultivation of shrubs for this purpose, whether they are confined
in pots or planted out, choose an open, well-exposed position, carefully
guarding against overcrowding, as this tends to leaves instead of
flowers. With the same object, they must be kept free from weeds, and
not allowed to suffer from drought.
With few exceptions, the best time to lift and pot the plants is as soon
as possible after the leaves have fallen in the autumn. When done at
this time the young roots recover from the check, and get hold of the
new soil before the flowering season. The pots must be plunged in
leaves, spent hops, or cocoa-nut refuse, to keep them in an even
condition of moisture, and after potting never allow the roots to suffer
through dryness. Whether intended for very early flowering or later on,
the plants should at first only be taken into a comparatively cool
structure, and, if necessary, brought to a greater heat by degrees, and
the lower the temperature, say about 55 degrees, the more beautiful the
flower colouring; while, when they are only required in bloom a little
before the natural season, mere protection from sharp frosts and keen
winds is alone essential. The advantage of early potting is shown
conspicuously in the case of Azaleas. The flowers produced by plants
that have been potted soon after the leaves have fallen will remain
twice as long in beauty as on those not potted until after Christmas.
In a general way, plants that have been forced hard to get them into
flower early cannot be depended upon to bloom satisfactorily the
following season, no matter how carefully they may have been treated,
but those merely brought into bloom a little in advance of those out of
doors will undergo the same ordeal next year. Too often, when the
flowers are over, the shrubs are put away in some corner and forgotten,
and the result is injured leaves and general upset. Shrubs so treated
cannot perform their duties in the year following. Shrubs that have
finished flowering under glass before the time of frost and cold winds
is past should be at first carefully protected and gradually hardened
off. Where a cool house is not available, a frame in a sheltered
position is suitable, but even then avoid overcrowding. By the middle of
May this precaution is not so necessary, although keen frosts and winds
are experienced that would injure foliage developed under glass. Where
potting is necessary, that is, in the case of plants grown permanently
in this way, it should be done before they are placed in their summer
quarters. For this the pots should, if possible, be placed on a firm bed
of ashes and plunged in some moisture-holding material, such as
partially decayed leaves, spent hops, or cocoa-nut fibre refuse.
Occasional doses of liquid manure during the growing season are
beneficial, particularly in the case of shrubs that have not been
re-potted, as the limited amount of nourishment in the soil will have
gone by that time.
The following is a list of the best shrubs for flowering under glass:--
ANDROMEDA (known also as Pieris and Zenobia).--The Andromedas are
beautiful shrubs, with lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, and form such a
mass of fibrous roots that they can be lifted from the open ground and
potted without receiving any check. When placed in a cool house they
flower profusely. The best are _A. floribunda_, which has crowded,
somewhat stiff spikes; _A. japonica_, known by its drooping racemes; and
_A. speciosa pulverulenta_, which has hoary leaves and waxy-white bells.
The first two may be had in flower by the end of March, but the other is
later.
AZALEA.--One of the useful classes of shrubs that we have for this
purpose, quite as valuable for hard forcing as for flowering later in
spring. Although the formation of the roots is dense and wig-like, they
are, as already stated, all the better for being potted early, while
they may be permanently grown in pots in a satisfactory way. The Chinese
_A. sinensis_, or _mollis_, as it is more popularly called, is of close
and compact growth, with massive clusters of large flowers, varying in
colour from pale yellow to deep orange salmon, and innumerable tints and
shades. Among the most beautiful are Alphonse Lavalle, bright orange;
Anthony Koster, deep yellow; Dr. Pasteur, orange red; General Vetten,
orange; Hugo Koster, salmon red; and J. J. de Vink, soft rose. The
varieties grouped under the head of Ghent Azaleas are very beautiful,
and quite as suitable for forcing as the preceding. The individual
flowers are smaller, but they are borne in such profusion that the whole
plant is a mound of blossom. The colour varies from white, through all
shades of yellow, orange, pink, rose, and scarlet, to bright crimson, so
that plenty of variety is available, and some forms have double flowers.
These are not so showy as the single Azaleas. Azaleas, when planted out,
require a certain amount of peat or other vegetable matter in the soil,
and this is even more important when they are grown in pots. A suitable
compost consists of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, and peat, with half
a part of sand. Very little pruning is needful, and this to consist only
of shortening an occasional shoot that threatens to upset the balance
of the plant, and thinning wiry and exhausted growths; but remove seed
pods directly the flowers are over, as these are a drain upon the
plant's strength.
BERBERIS.--Few Berberises are of much account for greenhouse decoration,
the best being the orange-flowered _B. Darwinii_ and the rich yellow _B.
stenophylla_. They will not flower well if forced hard, but in a cool
house, with very little heat, they are very charming. A successful
grower of shrubs under glass writes: "I knew of some bushes of _B.
stenophylla_ that had been treated in this way for five years, and
little trouble was taken with them, yet they were so beautiful as to be
much admired every year. After flowering, the weakly growths were cut
out and the pots plunged in the open ground. Manure water was
occasionally given, and with this treatment they did well."
CARPENTERIA CALIFORNICA.--This evergreen shrub, even in the south of
England, is all the better for slight protection, and it is delightful
in the almost cold house, the white flowers, reminding one of those of
the Japanese anemone, appearing about May. It is a very beautiful shrub.
CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS.--This Chinese shrub will bloom freely in light
and warm soils, bearing lavender blue flowers in profusion during the
autumn; indeed, so late that when cold and wet weather occurs they often
fail to expand at all. This difficulty is overcome when the plants are
grown in pots and taken into the greenhouse for the flowers to open; it
is then very pretty and much liked. After flowering, the shoots
generally die back almost to the ground, but break up with renewed
vigour in spring.
CEANOTHUS.--Some of the early-flowering Ceanothuses are very valuable;
they may be grown in pots, and their flowers are of pleasing blue
colouring, which is unusual and therefore welcome. Among the best for
this purpose are _C. dentatus_, _C. papillosus_, and _C. veitchianus_.
Ceanothuses do not transplant very well, and if intended for flowering
in pots should be lifted in the autumn, potted carefully, and wintered
in a cool house. They may be kept altogether in pots, giving them much
the same attention during summer as _Berberis stenophylla_.
CERCIS SILIQUASTRUM.--This is the Judas tree, and as many know, while
the leaves are still absent the stems bear clusters of rosy-purple
flowers. It may be lifted and potted in the autumn or kept altogether in
pots, but on no account indulge in hard forcing, as it resents this
treatment. Well-grown specimens are very pretty when in flower in late
March.
CHIONANTHUS.--There are two species of Chionanthus, viz. the North
American Fringe tree (_C. virginica_) and its Japanese representative
_C. retusus_. They resemble each other very much, but the American form
is the better of the two. The Fringe trees are very charming when in
pots. Prune back hard after flowering and fully expose to the sun to
ensure plenty of flower buds. A moist soil is essential.
MEXICAN ORANGE FLOWER (_Choisya ternata_). This will bear its white
fragrant flower clusters in March in a greenhouse, and a succession is
maintained for some time. It is most satisfactory when grown altogether
in pots and plunged outside during the summer.
CLEMATISES.--Of late years the various forms of Clematis have been grown
largely under glass and used for various purposes, not only in the shape
of large specimens, but in pots five inches in diameter, the plant being
secured to a single stake and carrying several big showy flowers. Two
somewhat new continental varieties, Marcel Moser and Nelly Moser, have
proved very useful for this treatment. The plants flowered in small pots
are those that are propagated in the preceding spring and plunged out of
doors during the summer. The Himalayan _C. montana_ that flowers
naturally so early in the season readily responds to a little heat, and
in the greenhouse in spring it is almost as welcome as the New Zealand
_C. indivisa_.
CLETHRA.--Although _C. alnifolia_ does not flower until the autumn it
may be had in bloom in spring. Of course, it will not be so early as
shrubs that are naturally in beauty in the spring, but in May its white,
fragrant flowers should be seen. It requires a cool, moist soil and
sunshine, while prune moderately immediately after flowering. Lifted in
the autumn soon after the leaves drop, it will succeed well.
CORYLOPSIS SPICATA.--This reminds one of a small Hazel bush, and in
early spring before the leaves appear, the drooping clusters of fragrant
yellow flowers appear in profusion; simple protection is all that is
needed to get flowers quite early in the year, when it is very pretty in
the greenhouse. It thrives well kept permanently in pots, or it may be
lifted and potted in the autumn. No pruning is necessary.
CYTISUS (Broom).--The various Brooms are much admired, whether in the
open ground or under glass, and for the latter purpose they must be
established in pots, for their roots are few, descend deeply, and
therefore transplanting is difficult. They will not bear hard forcing,
but in a greenhouse may be had in flower by the end of March, or soon
after. If kept altogether in pots, cut them hard back after flowering to
encourage vigorous shoots for another year. Numerous sorts may be grown
in pots, particularly the Spanish Broom (_C. albus_), the common Broom
(_C. scoparius_), with the hybrid Andreanus and the sulphur-coloured _C.
praecox_.
DEUTZIA.--The pretty _D. gracilis_ is well known as one of the best of
all shrubs for early forcing, and the whole family is of great interest
as pot plants and out of doors. Of these smaller Deutzias some beautiful
hybrids have been raised, particularly _D. Lemoinei_, _D. hybrida
venusta_, and _D. kalmaeflora_, all of which may be forced almost, if
not quite, as readily as _D. gracilis_. The old and exhausted shoots of
these Deutzias should, if the shrubs are kept in pots, be cut away to
allow young and vigorous ones to develop. Though they may be had in
flower early, they are much appreciated in the greenhouse, even as late
as the month of May. The larger growing _D. crenata_, with its numerous
varieties, _Candidissima flore-pleno_, _Wellsii_, and _Watererii_ will
not bear hard forcing, but can be had in flower with little trouble in
April and May. Good, well-ripened bushes may be lifted in the autumn,
and if potted and carefully attended to they will flower well the
following spring.
DIERVILLA (WEIGELA).--Many of the Bush Honeysuckles, as the Weigelas are
called, will flower well in a cool house, but they do not last
sufficiently long in bloom to make them of great value for this purpose.
The best is the dark-coloured _Eva Rathke_, which grows naturally into a
neat bush; the flowers are of claret colouring.
HEATHS.--_Erica carnea_ is very pretty in a cool house in mid-winter,
all that is needed being to lift the clumps from the open ground, pot,
and keep watered; while the large-growing Portuguese Heath, _E.
lusitanica_, which flowers naturally in February in the open ground,
when the weather is not too severe, well repays glass protection at that
season.
FORSYTHIA.--The Forsythias flower in the open ground by the month of
March, and indoors, of course, much earlier. The most effective is _F.
suspensa_, which is naturally a climber, or, at all events, of loose and
rambling growth. When needed for pots, tie the principal shoots to a
stout stake, and let the smaller branches grow at will, the result
being a fountain of yellow flowers. After flowering in the greenhouse,
cut back the shoots hard, leaving only an eye or two at the base. These
eyes will break up and produce flowering shoots for another year. By
this method of treatment the same plants may be kept for many years,
provided they are carefully attended to and given occasional doses of
liquid manure during the summer.
HYDRANGEA.--The many varieties of the common Hydrangea are all valuable
for the greenhouse, particularly _Cyanoclada_, _Mariesii_, _Rosea_,
_Stellata_, and Thomas Hogg. To obtain small flowering plants the
cuttings are struck in spring or early summer, grown on freely for a
time, and well ripened by full exposure to air and sunshine before
autumn. Plants grown in this way readily respond to a little heat in the
spring. Larger specimens, too, may be brought on in the same way. The
Japanese _H. paniculata grandiflora_ needs quite different treatment,
the plants being generally grown in the open ground, from whence they
are lifted and potted in the autumn. Before potting prune the long,
wand-like shoots back hard, leaving only about two eyes at the base. By
so doing the plants are kept dwarfer, and the flower heads are larger
than if no pruning were done. By some the Hydrangea is grown as a
standard, and is very effective when in beauty.
ITEA VIRGINICA.--A neat little bush, about a yard high, with dense
spikes of white flowers. It needs a sunny spot in a cool and moist soil,
and under these conditions will flower freely if carefully lifted in
the autumn and potted. It must not suffer from dryness afterwards. No
pruning is necessary.
JAMESIA AMERICANA.--A pretty little white-flowered shrub from the Rocky
Mountains. It will bloom freely under glass, but must not be forced
hard; it may be treated in the same way as the Itea.
KALMIA.--All the Kalmias are good pot shrubs. The roots are dense and
wig-like, reminding one of those of a Rhododendron, so that well-budded
plants can be lifted in the autumn and potted without risk. They must be
brought on gradually in a cool house, and never suffer from want of
water. The earliest to bloom is _K. glauca_, followed by _K.
angustifolia_, while later on there is the largest and best-known
species, _K. latifolia_, the Mountain Laurel of the United States, which
has pretty pink flower clusters.
KERRIA JAPONICA (the Jews' Mallow).--The single Kerria is a twiggy bush,
with bright yellow flowers, like those of a single Rose, and expand
quickly in spring. The major form of the double Kerria is much better
than the ordinary one; they can be potted in autumn or grown permanently
in pots. After the flowering season is over the double variety can be
spurred back hard to prevent a tall weakly growth.
LABURNUM.--This has long been used for the greenhouse, and very
effective it is when well flowered. It is as a rule most successful when
in large pots, in the shape of a standard. Prune back moderately after
flowering.
LONICERA (Honeysuckle).--As _L. fragrantissima_ flowers naturally out of
doors soon after Christmas when the weather is mild, it is evident that
no forcing is needed to obtain it at that season, and in a cool
greenhouse the little white flowers are remarkable for their delicious
perfume. As spring advances the early Dutch may be flowered under glass,
while the scarlet Honeysuckle (_L. sempervirens minor_) is a delightful
greenhouse plant, not used so much as it deserves to be for rafters and
similar purposes in the greenhouse.
LOROPETALUM CHINENSE.--This Chinese shrub, with its long, pure white,
strap-shaped petals, bears much resemblance to the Chionanthus, and is
quite as desirable for flowering in pots. It may be either lifted in the
autumn or grown altogether in pots.
MAGNOLIA.--The Magnolias can be grown under glass. If allowed to come
gradually into bloom in a greenhouse the large flowers will open freely.
As a rule they transplant badly, and for that reason, at least the
choicer ones, are kept in pots for convenience in removal. From this it
will be understood that as a rule it is more satisfactory to keep them
permanently in pots than to lift them in the autumn. _M. purpurea_ can
be grown more easily than any of the others in this form. When grown in
pots for the greenhouse, if they get too large for that structure they
may be planted permanently out of doors and their place taken by smaller
plants. Of those particularly valuable for this treatment are the little
_M. stellata_, a charming shrub; _M. Lenne_, which has massive
chalice-like flowers, rosy-purple outside; _M. conspicua_, _M.
soulangeana_, and _M. purpurea_ among the early Magnolias; and of those
that flower later the Japanese _M. parviflora_ and _M. Watsoni_ do well
in pots.
OLEARIA.--The best known of the Daisy trees of New Zealand is _O.
Haastii_, which flowers freely in August. One at least of the species
blooms naturally much earlier, namely _O. stellulata_ (_O. gunniana_),
and very pretty it is under cover and with its daisy-like blossom. To be
seen at their best, grow them altogether in pots and give the protection
of a cool house in winter.
TREE PAEONIES.--The magnificent varieties of the Tree Paeony that have
appeared in recent years have led to a great increase in their culture.
Though hardy in many places, their young leaves and flowers are
frequently injured by late frosts, hence they are often flowered under
glass. In this way they make a gorgeous display in the greenhouse, which
is sufficiently warm for them in all stages. If forcing is attempted
they are quickly spoilt. They must be potted in good loamy soil, and are
most satisfactory when grown altogether in pots, as many of the long
fleshy roots will be injured in digging up established plants.
PERNETTYA MUCRONATA.--Though grown chiefly for its ornamental berries,
neat little bushes are very pleasing in the greenhouse when thickly
studded with little white lily-of-the-valley-like flowers, so pretty
against the dark-green colouring of the leaves. The treatment
recommended for Kalmias is suitable for the Pernettyas. The fruits are
very charming.
PHILADELPHUS (Mock Orange).--This in its several forms may be lifted in
the autumn and flowered well the following spring, not early, as the
forcing must be very gentle. Even then the perfume of _P. coronarius_ is
too powerful to be pleasant in a confined space. This objection cannot,
however, be urged against M. Lemoine's hybrids between this species and
the pretty little Mexican _P. microphyllus_, which has a fragrance like
that of ripe apples. These newer hybrids--_Avalanche_, _Boule d'Argent_,
_Gerbe de Neige_, _Manteau d'Hermine_, _Mont Blanc_, and _Lemoinei_--are
all worth a place either in the open ground or for flowering in pots.
PRUNUS.--Several classes that were at one time considered as separate
genera are now included in the genus Prunus, which was formerly limited
to the Plum family. Now the Cherries, Almonds, and Peaches are only
sections of the genus Prunus, as explained elsewhere in this book, but
as they are better known under their respective names it will be wiser
to refer to them thus. The Cherries (_Cerasus_) have been added to
considerably of recent years, several varieties having come from Japan,
mostly of _P. (Cerasus) pseudo-cerasus_. These, which include such
varieties as _Sieboldi_, _Watereri_, and J. H. Veitch, all flower freely
when quite small, an important point when considering plants needed for
flowering under glass. Where larger plants are required the double form
of the Wild Cherry (_P. Avium_) is very beautiful. The Almonds flower
early naturally, and under glass, of course, earlier still; the variety
_purpurea_ is one of the best, while a distinct species, _P. (Amygdalus)
davidiana_ and its variety _alba_, are also suitable for growing under
glass. The Peaches (_Persica_) form a delightful group, all available
for flowering under glass; indeed, they respond readily to gentle
forcing, hence may be had in bloom by March. There are several
varieties, the flowers ranging in colour from white, through pink, to
crimson, and double as well as single. One of the finest forms is
_magnifica_, a Japanese variety, semi-double, and brilliant carmine
crimson in colour. The purple-leaved Peach is very charming.
Of the true Plums, special mention must be made of the dark-leaved
variety of the Cherry Plum, known as _Prunus Pissardi_, of the pretty
little _P. japonica alba plena_, and _japonica rosea plena_, more
generally known in gardens as _P. sinensis_, which has slender shoots,
wreathed for the greater part of their length with double rosette-like
flowers, and the charming pink semi-double _P. triloba_. All these forms
of Prunus will, if they have been regularly transplanted, lift well in
the autumn and flower without a check. They are also quite satisfactory
if kept altogether in pots when spurred back after flowering and
encouraged to make free and well-ripened growth during the summer
months, when they should be plunged out of doors in a sunny spot.
PYRUS.--The very beautiful _P. floribunda_ is quite happy under this
treatment, and _P._ or _Cydonia japonica_ (the Japanese Quince) that
flowers early in the year is pretty under glass, especially the distinct
_P. Maulei_, which is of dense and compact growth, and bears salmon-red
flowers in profusion. Grow the Pyruses in a similar way to the Prunuses.
RAPHIOLEPIS JAPONICA (_R. ovata_).--An evergreen of sturdy growth, and
about 3 feet high, with terminal spikes of pure white hawthorn-like
flowers. It is decidedly uncommon and ornamental when in bloom. Out of
doors its season is June, but, of course, is earlier under glass.
RHODODENDRON.--These are the most gorgeous of shrubs, and largely used
for flowering in pots or tubs. They form a dense mat of fibres, and can
therefore be lifted with little check. Owing to this they can, when
ordinary care is used, be transferred to new quarters without losing a
leaf, not only when potted, but also when planted out in the open
ground. Hard forcing must be avoided, but the Rhododendrons may be
brought on gradually in gentle heat. Under this treatment they must be
well supplied with water, and liberal syringing is also beneficial. The
wide range of colouring in the Rhododendron family gives an opportunity
for getting almost any shade desired.
RHODOTYPUS KERRIOIDES.--A beautiful Japanese shrub, reminding one of a
Kerria, but the flowers are white. It will succeed with the same
treatment as the Kerria requires.
RIBES (Flowering Currant).--Both the yellow-flowered _R. aureum_ and the
various forms of _R. sanguineum_ can be brought into flower early under
glass, but the flowers do not last long, and for this reason the shrubs
are little used for the purpose.
SPIRAEAS.--An extensive family, some of which bloom delightfully when
lifted and potted in the autumn and brought into flower in gentle heat.
They may also be grown permanently in pots, but as a rule autumn potting
is preferable. The most popular is _S. confusa_ or _media_, but also
very charming are _S. arguta_, one of the most beautiful of all
Spiraeas, _S. Van Houttei_, _S. Thunbergi_, and _S. prunifolia fl. pl._,
which all bear white flowers, those of the last mentioned being double.
STAPHYLEA (Bladder Nut).--_S. colchica_ is most used for forcing, and is
a charming shrub for the purpose. It quickly responds to heat and
moisture. Brought on in a gentle greenhouse temperature, it gives a
wealth of drooping clusters of white fragrant flowers. Keep the shrubs
in pots, as the buds are produced more freely than when planting out is
done, and after the flowers are over prune hard back. There is a hybrid
between _S. pinnata_ and _S. colchica_, called _Columbieri_, which is
better than _S. colchica_.
SYRINGA (Lilac).--The Lilac is one of the most popular of shrubs for
forcing, and may be had in bloom by Christmas or soon after, its flowers
being welcome from then until they appear out of doors. Thousands of
plants for flowering under glass are prepared in the most careful way
every year, the neat bushes, about 2 feet high, having been grown in
pots 7 or 8 inches across and plunged in the open ground. This treatment
results in close and compact balls of soil, which, when turned out of
the pots, retain their shape and bear the journey well. These plants are
pruned hard back after flowering to keep them dwarf. Lilacs that have
been frequently moved may be lifted and flowered without risk. Most of
those sent from Holland consist of the white-flowered variety, _Marie
Legrange_, but the dark-coloured _Charles X._ is also grown. The many
double-flowered Lilacs are not so popular as the singles. It is a pure
delight to smell the flowers of the Lilac long before they appear in the
open garden; they are most welcome.
VIBURNUM.--When the plants are well budded the Laurustinus (_V. Tinus_)
will flower throughout the winter in a greenhouse. Of those that are
amenable to slight forcing the best are the common Guelder Rose (_V.
Opulus sterile_), the Chinese _V. plicatum_, and _V. macrocephalum_.
Treat them in the same way as the Lilac. The Guelder Rose is a
delightful shrub under glass, with its wealth of ivory-white balls. It
is one of the most interesting of all the things that can be brought
into bloom in a greenhouse. Treat the Viburnums in the same way as
recommended for the Lilacs.
WISTARIA.--It is only within the past few years that the Wistaria has
been used to any extent for flowering in this way, but now it is
universally admired. At the exhibitions early in the year it always
attracts more attention than any other shrub grown in a greenhouse; the
soft lilac colouring of the flowers is very beautiful against the tender
green of the expanding leaves. The best and general way is to grow it as
a standard, as the racemes hang down in graceful profusion. _W.
sinensis_ is the Wistaria planted so freely against houses and pergolas,
and for flowering under glass the variety _alba_ may be mentioned; it is
more satisfactory than in the open garden. _W. multijuga_, which has
racemes of great length, may also be tried, but _W. sinensis_ is as
charming as any, and the most likely to give satisfaction. Wistarias
transplant badly, hence in nurseries are usually kept in pots;
therefore, for flowering under glass, permanent pot culture is the
proper treatment. To obtain standards train up a single shoot till the
required height is reached, then stop it, and encourage the formation of
branches. When the head has reached flowering size, after the flowers
are over, spur the shoots back to good eyes to keep the growth fairly
compact.
JAPANESE MAPLES (_Acer palmatum_ and varieties).--The handsome foliage
of the Japanese Maples forms their chief charm. When grown under glass
they are very beautiful, the leaves varying greatly both in colour and
shape; some almost plain, others deeply cut and almost fringe-like.