A ROAD TO ROME

An ardour not of Eros' lips.--WILLIAM WATSON.

I

The spring had come promptly this year and with it the usual invoice

of young Romans to Athens. Some of them were planning to stay only

a month or two to see the country and hear the more famous professors

lecture. Others were settling down for a long period of serious study

in rhetoric and philosophy. Scarcely to be classed among any of these

was the young poet Julius Paulus,[2] who, as he put it to himself

with the frank grandiosity of youth, was in search of the flame of

life--_studiosus ardoris vivendi_. He had brought a letter to Aulus

Gellius, and Gellius, dutifully responsive to all social claims,

invited him on a day in early March to join him and a few friends

for a country walk and an outdoor lunch in one of their favourite

meeting places.

[Footnote 2: A poet Julius Paulus is mentioned once by Aulus Gellius

in the _Attic Nights_, in terms which seem to suggest both his worldly

prosperity and his cultivated tastes. But the suggestion for his

character in this imaginary sketch has come, in reality, from

generous and ardent young students of to-day, turning reluctantly

from their life in Athens to patient achievement in the countries

whose sons they are.]

This place, an unfrequented precinct of Aphrodite, about two hours

distant from the marketplace, lay below the rocky summit of Hymettus

within the hollow of the foot hills. The walk was an easy one, but

the forenoon sun was warm and the young pedestrians upon their

arrival paused in grateful relief by a spring under a large plane

tree which still bore its leaves of wintry gold. The clear water,

a boon in arid Attica, completed their temperate lunch of bread and

eggs, dried figs and native wine. After eating they climbed farther

up the hillside and stretched themselves out in the soft grass that

lurked among boulders in the shade of a beech tree. Aulus, with the

air of performing an habitual action, produced a book. To-day it

proved to be a choice old volume of Ovid, which he had secured at

a bargain on the quay at Brindisi, convinced that it had belonged,

fully one hundred and fifty years ago, to the poet himself. It had

gone far, he said, toward consoling him for the loss of an original

Second Book of the _AEneid_ snatched up by a friend in the Image

Market at Rome. The Ovid was for Paulus's edification. Aulus unrolled

his treasure and read aloud "an accurate description of this very

spot:"

Violet crests of Hymettus a-flower

Neighbour a fountain consecrate.

Yielding and green is the turf. In a bower

Trees low-growing meet and mate;

Arbutus shadeth the green grass kirtle,

Sweet the scent of rosemary;

Fragrant the bay and the bloom of the myrtle;

Nay, nor fail thee here to see

Tamarisks delicate, box-wood masses,

Lordly pine and clover low.

Legions of leaves and the top of the grasses

Stir with healing zephyrs slow.

The reader's indifference to what confronted his eyes, added to his

dull regard for the verbal accuracy of ancient verses, shrivelled

the modern poet's ardent humour. Was this an example of the

intellectual enlightenment awaiting him, he had so fondly hoped, in

Athens? With apprehension he remembered what his father's friend,

a rich dilettante, one of the best liked men in Rome, had written

him when he sent him the letter of introduction:

"You will find Gellius the best fellow in the world but not a fagot

to kindle the fires of pleasure. I hear that he has called his book,

a particoloured digest of information, _Attic Nights_, because he

has spent his nights in Athens writing it--nights, mark you, when

even in her own city Athena closes her grey eyes within her virgin

shrine and leaves Pan to guard from his cave below the roysterings

of youth. It is easy to let an allusion to my friend Lucian slip off

the end of my stylus when I think of Athens. He and Gellius are

scarcely the 'like pleasing like' of the proverb! Lucian, in fact,

disposed of Gellius once by calling him an 'Infant Ignorance on the

arm of Fashion.' This was after he had watched a peasant making

holiday among the statues and temples on the Acropolis, carrying in

his arms a three months old child who dozed in a colonnade of the

Parthenon and sucked his thumb in front of Athena Promachus. The

blinking baby, he said, made him think of Aulus, futilely carried

about by the trend of the age among ideas and achievements beyond

his understanding. But in fairness I must add that when this was

repeated to Marcus Aurelius he retorted: 'Better a child than an

iconoclast in the presence of beauty. I should call Gellius an honest

errand boy in Athena's temple.' So there you have two ways of looking

at your future host. If Lucian is the most enlightened wit of the

day, Aurelius is the most Roman of us all and likely to rule over

us when Antoninus rejoins the gods.

"On Gellius's return next year he is to be made a judge. He will study

law painstakingly and apply it exactly. And Rome will never for him

be one whit juster. However, your father will be delighted to have

you make such a friend--a man of thirty whose idea of a debauch is

to make a syllogism, who is a favourite student of great teachers

and can introduce you to Herodes Atticus and to all the best life

of Athens. Nor, indeed, do I marvel at Aurelius for trusting him.

As a scholar or a jurist he will always be negligible, but as a man

he is naively sincere and candid and with all the strength of his

Roman will he is determined that both his work and his pleasures shall

be such as befit a gentleman of honour and refinement. He may bore

you, but, if I do not misread you, the pleasures that are within his

gift will have a finer edge for you than those of the Colosseum and

the Circus Maximus."

As Gellius droned on about some of the niceties of Ovid's language,

fragmentary sentences of this letter recurred to Paulus and he

wondered what his father's friend would think of him could he

accurately read his desires for pleasure. Certainly the shows of the

Amphitheatre seemed remote enough here under the cool, grey branches,

tipped with early green, of the Attic beech tree, but scarcely, after

all, more remote than they often seemed in Rome itself to a youth

who found virile recreation by the sea at Ostia or in following the

Anio over the hills of Tibur. No, he had not flung away from Rome

to escape in the back waters of a smaller town the noisy vulgarities

of the metropolis. Nor was he one of those who confused the contests

of the Circus with the creative struggles of the Forum. His

abstinence from political life was due to temperament rather than

conviction, nature having shaped him for active citizenship in a

world dissociated from public insignia. It was in this world that

he found himself at twenty-five ill at ease. Without genius, his

slender vein of talent was yet of pure gold. There was no danger of

his overrating his own poetry. He saw it as it was, of the day and

hour, wearing no immortal grace of thought or language. But in it

he was at his best, more honest and more whole-hearted than he could

be in any public service. This seemed to him, quite simply, to

constitute a reason for being such a poet as he was.

He belonged to an ancient family, which had furnished a consul in

the first Punic War, had left distinguished dead on the field of

Cannae and had borne on its roll the conqueror of Macedonia. AEmilius

Paulus Macedonicus had rendered Rome the further and signal service

of a public life as spotless as it was brilliant, and something of

this statesman's scrupulous integrity had passed to the youngest son

of the house, leading him to discriminate in his world also between

shadows and realities. To Paulus the happiest age in the world's

history was the age of Pericles, when the wedlock of life and learning

issued in universal power. In Rome he would have been glad to have

lived in the last years of the Republic, or under Augustus, when

Lucretius and Catullus, Virgil and Horace, by submitting themselves

in pupilage to the Greeks, became masters of new thoughts and new

emotions among the masters of the world. How different was their

discipleship from the imitative methods of modern literati! While

it was the fashion to boast of refinement and learning, while

libraries jostled each other and rhetoricians and philosophers

swarmed in the city, Paulus was chiefly conscious that in the place

of creative imagination a soulless erudition walked abroad. In the

vestibule of the Palatine temple, waiting for the morning appearance

of the Emperor, rhetoricians discussed the meaning of an adverb. In

the baths they tested each other's knowledge of Sallust. Grammarians

gathered in secondhand bookshops around rare copies of Varro's

satires and Fabius's chronicles and hunted for copyist's errors. If

one were tired of the streets and went to walk in Agrippa's park,

he ran into men quarrelling over a vocative. Even on a holiday at

Ostia he could not escape discussions between Stoics and

Peripatetics. With all this activity, philosophy and literature grew

only more anaemic.

Paulus, too limited to be himself a formative influence, was also

too truth-loving to be satisfied in Rome with the only life he was

fitted to lead. Indifferent to the persuasions of Aphrodite, he yet

harboured in his temperament a certain warmth which made him eager

to live with passion and abandon, to scorch his hands in the fires

of the world rather than drearily to warm them at burnt out ashes.

Hopeless in Rome, he determined to seek his fortune elsewhere. An

intellectual life real enough to claim his spendthrift allegiance,

this, concretely, was the prize for which he had set sail from

Brindisi two months before.

The act gave him an outward resemblance to the horde of young bloods

who were always swinging out on the high seas in search of sport and

adventure. The most restless made for Britain and the shores of the

Euxine or the Baltic, or for the interior of Syria and Persia. The

larger number followed the beaten and luxurious paths to Egypt, where

they plunged into the gaieties of Alexandria and, cursorily enough,

saw the sights of Memphis and Thebes. Paulus also went to Egypt. But

in spite of his introductions and his opportunities to experiment

with modern life under the absolving witchery of Oriental conditions,

he gave himself over to the subtler influences of the past. Pilgrim

rather than tourist, he visited eagerly the pyramids and the Sphinx,

the temples of Karnak and Thebes, the tombs of the Theban kings, the

colossi of the desert. In the frightful course of the centuries, as

they unrolled before him, he seized upon the guidance of Herodotus,

to whom the monuments of Egypt had seemed as incalculably old as they

did to him. The choice, however, had proved unfortunate for his

sympathetic reading of Egyptian history. Dwelling on the radiant

progress towards truth and beauty of a free race, bondsmen only to

law and reason, younger brothers of bright gods, he became

querulously critical of a race whose Pharaohs strangled life in the

thought of death and eternity, prostrated themselves before gods in

monstrous shapes, and produced art at the expense of human

well-being.

The landscape of Egypt also seemed to Paulus as sinister as it was

exquisite. Its beauty, whether of silver Nile or lilac mountains or

tawny desert, enervated by its appeal to the love of easy delight,

and bred mad, vagrant thoughts, precursors of moral disaster. He had

slept in the desert one night. The enamelled turquoise of the

daylight sky, the clear, red gold of the sunset, the ghostly amber

of the afterglow gave way to moonlight. As he lay and watched the

silver bloom spread over the sand dunes, he felt suddenly a great

terror. The golden apples of his western labour, the hard-won fruits

of his stern young virtue, were slipping out of his grasp. The white

desert lay upon his spirit like mist upon the sea, obliterating the

promised course. Desires, unknown before, crept in upon him over the

waves of the sand. All that he had rejected claimed him. All that

he had thought holy mocked him. The next day he hurried to Alexandria

and, recoiling from the library he had planned to visit, took the

first ship to Greece.

He had landed a week ago. To-day's excursion, offering a pleasant

comradeship with those of his own race in a strange land, came almost

opportunely, he fancied, to break an exalted mood. He had found

himself roused to the uttermost by his first impressions of Athens.

Put to flight by the seduction of river and desert, it was the

influence of the landscape rather than of art and history to which

he was here first made sensitive. Sea, mountains and plain were

informed with a beauty which purged his memory of the evil loveliness

of Egypt and restored gravity and dignity to his conception of human

life. He was struck by what Plato would have called the Doric strain

in the harmonies of outline and colour. Idyllic scenes he had already

run across in his walks out from the city, scenes formed and reformed

by the lovely occupations of farm and vineyard and pasture. But the

lyric note so familiar to him in Italy seemed always overborne by

a deeper. Whether it was because of the noble modelling of the

fleshless mountains or because of an inner restraint in the minor

elements of the landscape, the mood generated by the beauty of the

Attic plain was always a grave one, delight swelling into reverence.

Now also, as his thoughts ceased whirling and he became conscious

again of what lay around him, his irritation died. All that was

trifling must be discarded when his eye could travel beyond wild

hyacinth and myrtle, past pines and olive groves and cypresses, past

the rosy soil of upturned fields, to the long, firm lines of Parnes's

purple ridge and to the snowy summit, a midday beacon, high-uplifted,

of distant Helicon.

To his relief, Paulus found that Gellius's monologue had given way

to general conversation. As he listened his heart grew hot within

him. These young men, of whom only Gellius and Servilianus had passed

out of their twenties, had lived in Athens for a year or longer, and

now, conscious of their approaching departure, they had fallen to

talking of the past months. A strange power Athens seemed to have

of exacting from aliens the intimate loyalty of sons. Here, Paulus

felt, was no miserly counting up of gains, but an inner concern with

art and history. Not as gluttonous travellers, but as those facing

a long exile, they talked of a city richer than Rome or Alexandria

or Antioch, richer than all the cities of the Empire taken together,

in masterpieces of architect and sculptor and painter; of a

country-side alive with memories of poets and thinkers and soldiers.

Taking with a catholic enthusiasm the hot winds and driving white

dust of summer, the deforming rains of winter, and the bright

splendour of sky and earth at the advent of spring, they had tramped

hither and yon, light-hearted in the vigour of youth, reverent in

the impulse of pilgrimage. Mountain fastnesses where the clarion

winds still trumpeted the victory of freedom and of Thrasybulus;

upland caves where Plato had been taken as a child to worship Pan;

long, white roads leading to the village homes of Euripides and

Demosthenes; the wind in the pine trees on Pentelicon, reminding them

of the wind in the groves of Tusculum; the autumn leaves on the plane

trees by the Ilissus; the silver moon seen from the water's edge at

Phaleron, swinging into the eastern void above the amethyst-dyed

rocks of Hymettus; a sail on a summer star-lit night from AEgina to

Piraeus--all these things crept one by one into their conversation.

Here, Paulus recognised, was a group of young men on fire with a real

emotion, cleansed in the presence of beauty and of great memories,

witnesses afresh to a procreative Hellas. When the party broke up

he thanked his host for the happiest day he had spent in many months.

On the way home, after rounding the last foot hill, they saw the

Acropolis across the plain. The sun fell on the red in the natural

rock and intensified the white of the marbles. Against the sombre

mountains the isolated citadel glowed inly, like a milk-white opal

shot with rose. Paulus caught his breath. Was it here, his flame of

life?

Roads from Rome · 第 22 / 25 题