I.--HOW THE REEDHAM BOYS MAKE THEIR CARDBOARD MODELS.
BY THE HEAD MASTER.
For some years it has been the custom for our boys to employ their
leisure time during the winter months in the construction of cardboard
models of locomotives, and some of the finished specimens exhibit a
degree of skill and ingenuity which could hardly be expected. The work,
to a great extent, is the result of the boys’ own observation and skill,
added to from time to time by those more observant or more ingenious,
and handed down traditionally from one generation of boys to another.
As it is a very interesting occupation, and a valuable means of
educating both the eye and the hand, it occurred to me that, if it were
possible to describe the processes on paper, it would prove acceptable
to boys generally. I therefore gladly avail myself of the opportunity
afforded me to lay before you, as clearly as I know how, all the steps
necessary to produce a finished model.
To encourage those who may underrate their powers, and think it is
useless for them to try, I would say that boys of nine, ten, and eleven
often produce very creditable work, and that those who produce the very
best are not always those most highly distinguished in class-work. A few
more words only are necessary: take these three ‘P’s.’ as your helps,
and I am sure you will succeed:
1. Be PRECISE; that is, endeavour carefully to carry out every detail.
2. Be PATIENT; that is, do not be too hasty in what you have to do.
3. PERSEVERE; if you fail at first, ‘Try, try, try again.’
We will commence by making a list of the materials required, all of
which may easily be obtained at a small cost. If two or three boys work
together, the cost may be reduced, as the smallest quantity you can
purchase of some of the things will suffice for more than one model.
MATERIALS.
1. _Wood._--One-eighth of an inch thick, straight in the grain, and of
width and length detailed afterwards. The backing of picture-frames,
large cigar-boxes, boxes in which cocoa or blacking is kept at the
grocers’ shops, all do capitally, and can generally be got for nothing.
2. _Card._--(_a_) Thick, (_b_) medium, and (_c_) thin. The thick may be
obtained from strong cardboard boxes; the thin can be bought at most
stationers’ in penny sheets, about fourteen inches by ten; and for the
medium obtain used postcards (white), which answer the purpose
capitally.
3. _Gum in solution._--Make your own, by purchasing two ounces of
gum-arabic at one penny per ounce, and dissolving it with warm water
till it is as thick as cream. Do not put too much water at first, you
can easily add more if too thick. Have this always ready, for you
require it constantly.
4. _Water-Colours_ (Rowney’s or Reeve’s penny cakes).--Chrome green (2);
vermilion (1); ivory-black (1); and a little Chinese white (the last not
essential).
5. _Camel-hair brushes._--Three or four of various sizes, halfpenny and
penny each.
6. _Elastic bands._--Six of various sizes.
7. _Pins._--If you cannot beg from your mother or sister, one penny will
buy what is necessary.
8. _Sand-paper._--Coarse and fine (halfpenny per sheet).
9. _Copper wire._--Such as is used for bell-hanging. Cost, one penny,
sufficient for several.
10. _Crystal varnish._--Cost, twopence.
11. _Brass or steel chain._--A piece of a toy watch-chain does very
well.
12. _A few small pieces of coal_ from the coal-cellar, when required.
13. _A knife_, with sharp edge.--Boys need no advice on this point.
14. _A cutting-board._--Any smooth piece of board about half an inch
thick.
15. _Cotton._--One reel of strong, any colour.
16. A few pieces of board for painting and drying gummed parts on. Such
as described in No. 1 will do.
When all your materials are ready, select a piece of thin wood (marked 1
in the list of materials). Let it be free from knots and straight in the
grain. The following dimensions are suitable for a medium-sized model;
if larger or smaller models are desired, increase or decrease
proportionately.
LENGTH, fourteen inches; WIDTH, two and three-quarter inches; THICKNESS,
about one-eighth of an inch; this is called the FOUNDATION.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Plan of foundation, quarter of size.]
[Illustration: Part of Fig. 1.--Full size.]
Having cut the exact size, next proceed to make on it, in pencil, the
plan as detailed in Fig. 1, as follows: Rule the two parallel lines A
E, B F, at distances of a quarter of an inch and three-eighths of an
inch respectively from one edge; rule C G, D H at the same distances
respectively from the other edge. Next measure off from one end (which
you had better mark ‘FRONT’) half an inch, then one inch and a quarter,
one inch, one inch and three-quarters, etc., as on plan (this must be
done on both edges); rule lines across where the words ‘RAISE UP,’ 1, 2,
3, 4, are marked. The shaded parts between the parallel lines should be
shaded on your plan as in the diagram. These shaded parts are now to be
cut out with a sharp knife. It requires both patience and care to
prevent the wood splitting, but a little practice will enable you to do
this easily and skilfully. These cut-out spaces (as will be seen
afterwards) are for the wheels.
The _foundation_ is now prepared, and the next process is to cut out
four boiler ends, or ‘Raise-ups,’ as they are termed, 1 and 2 for the
front, 3 and 4 for the back of boiler. They are all different, and are
formed as follows: On four pieces of thick card (No. 2_a_ in list of
materials) describe circles with radius one and one-eighth of an inch
(equal to half the distance from A D); in Nos. 2 and 3 describe a second
circle, with radius not quite a quarter of an inch less.
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--‘Raise-ups,’ half the size.]
Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4 must each have a base-line two inches and a quarter
long. The ends of Nos. 1 and 2 must curve up to meet the circle, and
Nos. 3 and 4 are perpendicular lines from ends of base line to meet the
circle (as shown above in Fig. 2). Now place these on your cutting-board
(No. 14 in list of materials) and with a very sharp knife cut them
neatly and carefully the required shapes. Nos. 1 and 4 must be left
quite whole in the centre; Nos. 2 and 3 must have their centres cut out
round the inner circle. (In cutting do not try to make a continuous cut,
or your knife is almost certain to slip and spoil your work; do it by
successive ‘digs’ with the point of the knife, in the manner adopted by
a gardener when cutting round the edges of a flower-bed with his spade.)
We are now in a position to make the body of the boiler. For this, take
a piece of _thin_ card (2_c_ in list); it should be seven inches long
(the length from K to L in Fig. 1), and about eight inches and a half
wide. This must be rolled into a cylinder, and is then ready for fitting
into the ‘raise-ups’ 2 and 3. No. 1 is then placed at the front end and
gummed on, and No. 4 at the other end and also gummed on. No. 2 should
be one and three-eighths of an inch from No. 1, and No. 3 be one and
seven-eighths of an inch from No. 4. These ‘raise-ups’ should now all
be fixed in their places on the foundation, and fastened at the bottom
edge with the thick solution of gum (No. 3 in list), being held firmly
to the foundation by elastic bands (No. 6 in list). These bands must not
be too strong or they will flatten the boiler. In all gumming, pins
should be freely stuck round to hold the parts in the desired position
until they are dry. Our model will now present this appearance. The
short perpendicular lines with knobs marked _a_ represent pins; the
lines marked _b_ represent elastic bands.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
When this is firmly stuck, two other pieces of thin card should be
prepared to connect the ‘raise-ups.’ One must be one and three-eighths
of an inch wide, and the other one and seven-eighths of an inch, and
long enough to reach from the ‘foundation’ on one side, over the top, to
the ‘foundation’ again on the other side. They must exactly follow the
shapes of the ‘raise-ups,’ and should be cut to exactly fit, but not
before the previous work is quite dry and firm. When prepared, gum in
position; they are called ‘over-raise-ups.’ Several folds of cotton must
be wound round the part marked _a b c d_ to hold it while drying.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
The next process is to well coat it with paint of the desired colour. If
we are copying one of the South-Eastern Railway Company’s engines, the
body will have to be painted ‘chrome-green’; if one of the Brighton
Company’s, it will have to be painted ‘yellow-ochre.’ As the latter is
liable to become soiled, we will select the former, and commence by
mixing our colour. We shall require two penny cakes (No. 4 in list of
materials). They should be placed in a small tin or earthenware pot (one
of Liebig’s extract-of-beef pots answers the purpose admirably), a
little water is then added, and one of your cakes may easily be softened
with a large paint-brush (No. 5 in list). Make your colour of the
consistency of cream, so that it works freely. It may be mixed while the
previous work is drying. When all is ready, paint the boiler and
‘over-raise-ups’ evenly with it, and let it dry; a second coat is
applied in the same way, and usually a third and fourth coat. The front
and back ‘raise-ups’ (Nos. 1 and 4) are not painted chrome-green. The
body being evenly painted, and dry, we proceed to ornament the boiler
with some fine lines; these are made by cutting with a sharp knife eight
narrow strips of paper, the exact width being, of course, very much a
matter of taste. You will require a ruler to guide your knife, and you
must place your paper on something smooth and very hard (not wood) while
you cut, or the paper will curl up. These strips must be about nine or
ten inches long. Six are to be painted _black_ and two vermilion;
immediately after painting them, just shift their position a little or
the edges will stick to the material on which they are laid, and they
will break when you attempt to lift them after they are dry. When dry,
place them as follows: First take a black strip, gum it, and stick it
exactly midway between raise-ups (Nos. 2 and 3) quite round the boiler;
on each side of this, and about three-eighths of an inch distant from
it, gum a vermilion strip; next gum and place two black strips
similarly, one on each side, about an inch and a half distant from the
centre strip. The three remaining black strips are to be thus placed:
one at the _front_ edge of the _front_ ‘over-raise-up,’ a second at the
_back_ edge of the same, the third at the _front_ of the _back_
‘over-raise-up;’ the three last will then be exactly over the raise-ups
Nos. 1, 2, and 3. We now require two strips of card the exact length of
the space between Nos. 2 and 3 ‘raise-ups,’ and not quite half an inch
wide; paint them well over with ‘chrome-green’ like the boiler, and when
dry edge with a black line, using the smallest paint-brush for this
black line. These are to be gummed at the lower side of the boiler
touching the foundation, and meeting the boiler obliquely,
thus:--[Illustration]. The position of the strips is shown at _a_. In
all gumming use plenty of gum, but let the greater part be on the side
hid from view.
[Illustration: This end must be shaped to fit the boiler.
Fig. 5.--Full size.]
We have now to construct ‘side-boxes.’ Take a piece of medium thickness
card (a used _white_ postcard), and make it the shape of Fig. 5. Where
the dotted lines come, cut a little [V]-shaped groove, _not quite
through_ the card, like this:--[Illustration]. And by bringing the two
edges of the groove together, thus, [Illustration], you will be enabled
to fold the card at right angles at those places without breaking it.
Having cut this as required, it must be folded and gummed into shape
(put plenty of gum into the joints and corners), and kept in this
position on a piece of wood by pins. Fig. 6 shows its appearance.
[Illustration: Fig. 5_a_.--To go round ‘middle-box.’]
[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
Make another similar to this for the other side; the same shaped card
will do, all that you need alter is the [V] groove, which must be on the
reverse side of the card to enable you to fold it so as to make a
pair--right and left-handed. When dry, paint ‘chrome-green,’ edge with
black, and gum in position one on each side of the back ‘over-raise-up,’
to which they should exactly fit. Fig. 8 shows them in position marked
_b_. The next thing to do is to make ‘MIDDLE-BOXES.’ They are two in
number, and are placed, one on each side, exactly in the middle of the
boiler, as marked _a_ in Fig. 8. Medium thickness is required. Describe
a circle, with radius one inch; within and concentric describe a second
with radius seven-eighths of an inch, and a third concentric with radius
three-eighths of an inch; divide this into two equal parts by the line A
B, Fig. 7. Between the two inner circles draw radiating spokes, as in
Fig. 7. Cut out the shaded parts neatly with a sharp knife. Cut through
the line A B to divide into two parts. Now prepare two pieces of card
shaped something like Fig. 5_a_; and the length must be sufficient to
reach from A to B round the outer circle in Fig. 7, the curve being made
to fit nicely to the boiler, as marked _c_ in Fig. 8. Gum these to the
middle-boxes, and, when dry, paint ‘chrome-green,’ edged with black;
gum middle-boxes in their places on the boiler. In the centre of the
front ‘raise-up’ gum a circular piece of thin card (radius
three-quarters of an inch)--this represents soot-door; a pin, with head
and point cut off, gummed on the left side with two narrow strips of
card from the pin to beyond the circle as annexed will form the hinges;
two other pieces of pin, as shown on the side opposite to the hinges,
form the handles.
[Illustration: Half-size.]
The soot-door should be painted black.
The model should now present the appearance of Fig. 8.
[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
We have next to make a ‘DOME-BOX’ and a FUNNEL-BOX. As both of these are
alike except in size, we will give details of the first, and dimensions
only of the second. On a piece of ‘medium’ card construct a square with
sides one and a half inch long, construct a second within it with sides
one inch long, cut out the corners shaded, leave the sides A B and C D
straight, but curve, as shown, the lines marked E F and G H, so that
they fit the boiler; the annexed (Fig. 9, No. 1) is full size and
exactly the shape. All round the inner square, where the dotted lines
are shown, a [V]-shaped groove must be cut, as when making ‘side-boxes’:
fold in, gum well in at the angles, and place pins round to keep it in
position until dry, as at Fig. 9, No. 2.
The dimensions of the ‘funnel-box’ are: outer square, one and a quarter
inches sides; inner square, three-quarters of an inch sides. The
‘dome-box’ is to be painted _chrome-green_ and edged with black; the
‘funnel-box’ is to be painted _black_. When they are quite dry they must
be gummed in position; the ‘dome-box’ is to be placed on the boiler,
almost in the centre, but slightly nearer the front than the back; the
‘funnel-box’ exactly in the centre of the front over ‘raise-up.’
[Illustration: Wood shaped for Dome. Cut off at line A B.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
Now obtain a piece of deal about six inches long and rather more than an
inch square; the corners are to be cut away at one end, so that the end
is shaped something like a glass shade; then with sand-paper (_coarse_
first and then _fine_) the rounded part is smoothed; cut it off square,
about one inch and a quarter from the rounded end, as shown at A B.
This is the ‘DOME,’ and if it be gilded with a little of Judson’s or
Bessemer’s gold paint, it adds much to the appearance; when gilded and
dry, stick it on the ‘dome-box;’ it should exactly reach the centre of
each side of the square; looked at from above, it appears as at _a_;
looked at from one side, it appears as at _b_.
[Illustration: STEAM FUNNEL]
Next take a piece of rather stout note-paper, about six inches long and
half an inch wide, roll it round a piece of slate-pencil several times,
gum the outer end, and when dry slip it off; cut a circular piece of
medium card to fit the end, which should be about half an inch in
diameter; now roll another piece of paper about a quarter of an inch
wide so as to make a roll about a third of the diameter of the
preceding, gum the outer end as before, and fix it in the centre of the
circular card; cut a second disc of card with the centre cut out just to
fit on the top of the small roll; it will then appear thus: It is called
the ‘_steam-funnel_’; it is to be painted ‘_chrome-green_’ and edged
with black; its position is the centre of the back ‘over-raise-up.’
We must now make our _screen_. For this we require a piece of thick card
three and a half inches long and two and five-eighths inches wide. It is
to be of the shape here given, but the width must be such that it will
fit tightly in between the side-boxes (see _b_, Fig. 8) at the rear end
of the boiler; the top must reach about half an inch higher than the
steam-funnel and be rounded at the corners. In this two circular holes
of about three-quarters of an inch in diameter must be cut; their
position is half an inch below the top and a quarter of an inch from the
sides; paint it chrome-green and edge with black. If pieces of circular
glass, such as are used for covering objects when mounted for the
microscope, were placed over the circular holes, and gilded round the
edges, they would improve the appearance; they are not essential. On
this screen we now provide a circular piece of thin card of the same
diameter as the large end of boiler--viz., two and a quarter inches;
this must be painted black, and is then gummed on the screen so as to
correspond with the boiler end when the screen is in position; a hole,
horizontal at the top and circular below, of this shape and dimensions
must now be cut through both cards for an ash-pan, the lower edge being
about one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the circle; at the back,
over the hole, gum a piece of paper painted vermilion, and dotted with
black to represent fallen cinders.
On this boiler end must now be made furnace and furnace-door. For this
take a piece of ‘medium’ card, and on it describe a semi-circle, with
diameter one and three-quarter inches. In this make a door shaped as in
the diagram, cut _quite_ through the part marked _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_,
except where the dotted line comes. Where this dotted line is shown it
should be cut on the _reverse_ side of the card, _half_ through the
card. This is the door, and it will then stand partly open. Round the
circular part gum a piece of thin card, one-eighth of an inch wide.
Fasten down with pins as before to dry, as annexed. When dry, paint the
part which is to show outside black, and stick a piece of paper painted
vermilion on the inner side of door. The vermilion should show through
the partly open door, in order to give the ruddy appearance of fire.
This furnace end may now be gummed on the boiler end (see Fig. 11). When
in position the bottom will be parallel with the top of the ‘ash-pan’
opening, and about one eighth of an inch above it. It will stand out
from the boiler end. Now with a large pin make holes all round the edge
of the boiler end. They should be close together, like this:
[Illustration]. In these holes insert pins, with the heads showing
outside, and this will give the effect of bright rivets.
Next take a piece of medium card, and make it of this size and shape:
[Illustration: As seen from front.]. Where the dotted lines marked ‘1’
are shown, bend it at right angles from you; where the dotted lines
marked ‘2’ are shown, bend at right angles outwards; it will, when
looked at edgeways, appear like this: [Illustration: As seen from
above.]. Paint it black on both sides, and gum the ends (2 to 3) on the
screen just above the boiler end. The lever (4, 5) is to work in this on
its centre (4). A narrow piece of thick card, about one inch and a
quarter long, will do for the lever, while a pin inserted at 4 forms the
centre on which it moves.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
We then fix our ‘_steam-gauge_.’ It consists of a circular piece of
white _medium_ card, on which is shown the numbers 10, 20, 30, 40, etc.,
to indicate the pressure. A pin through the centre connects it with the
steam-funnel. The pin represents the steam-pipe. We now require taps,
which we make out of pins, by cutting off the heads and bending them at
right angles about one-eighth of an inch from the headless end. The
point is pushed through the card, leaving outside about one-eighth of an
inch in addition to the bent part, as shown in accompanying cut. Above
this we gum another piece of bent pin _this_ size [Illustration] and
shape, for handle of tap. Two or three of these should be placed on the
boiler end, at the left side above the furnace.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Appearance of screen, but not the correct
size.]
[Illustration: Ash-box, full size.]
Our screen will now appear as shown at Fig. 11, and is ready for fixing.
To enable us to do this, as its position is at the back end of the
boiler, we first remove entirely No. 4 ‘_raiseup_’ and this must be done
very carefully. A good plan is to cut out the bottom of the ‘raiseup,’
insert your finger and gently pull it, when, with a little coaxing, it
will probably come out easily. The ‘raiseup’ being removed, we fix the
screen firmly in its place, using plenty of gum on the inner side of the
‘over-raiseup,’ ‘side-boxes,’ and inner boiler end. To hold it in
position while drying, stick two or three pins at the bottom into the
‘foundation,’ and tie a piece of cotton through the screen holes round
the dome. This cotton must not be so tight as to pull off the dome or
bend the screen. Let it dry.
[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Tender-side.--Exact size.]
The next process is to provide ‘_tender-sides_.’ The name indicates what
they are, viz. sides to the tender. They are made of wood; two pieces,
each four and a half inches long, one inch and a quarter wide, and
one-eighth of an inch thick, are required. The upper corner at the front
end should be cut out to correspond with the projection from side-boxes
(see Fig. 5, _a_). Paint chrome-green, edged with black, then divide
into panels with black lines, as at Fig. 12, which is full size, and
gives the exact appearance. If found too difficult, omit all the inner
lines. It is advisable to practise making these fine lines on a piece of
paper before making them on your ‘sides.’
[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Half-size.]
When they are quite ready they are placed in position (one on each side)
at the rear of the ‘foundation,’ and firmly gummed. They must be in an
exact line with the ‘side-boxes,’ and reach a little each way beyond the
pair of tender-wheels (as shown in Fig. 1, P to R). To connect these,
take a piece of ‘thick’ card of the shape shown (Fig. 13, _a_). The
diagram is half size. At M O and N P, cut, as before explained, V-shaped
grooves, and gum up the shape as at Fig. 13, _b_.
Paint the part marked A chrome-green; panel with black lines like sides
of tender. Paint the parts marked B and C black. When quite dry, place
in position; the part marked A is to be at the back end of the
‘tender-sides’ connecting them, the part marked B half-way along the
top, in both cases extending to the _outer edge_ of the wooden
‘tender-sides.’ The part marked C, which is narrower, comes _between_
the ‘tender-sides,’ and should terminate just about the front end of
them.
[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Back screen, half size.
Screen.--This shape, but about twice the size.]
The ‘screen’ to be placed at this end now requires making. It should be
just wide enough below to fit in between the ‘tender-sides;’ the upper
part should be wide enough to reach the outside edges of the
‘tender-sides.’ The height should be a quarter of an inch less than the
‘screen’ already constructed (Fig. 11), with top-corners rounded, and
with two holes near the top similar to those in the ‘screen.’ Near the
bottom a hole, one inch wide and three-quarters of an inch high, should
be cut--this is for the stoker to get coals out. The diagram (Fig. 14)
gives the shape. Paint chrome-green, and edge with black.
If you desire to make a screen with a top to it, as in the engines more
recently constructed, obtain a piece of thick card long enough for both
screens (which now must be of equal height) and the top; arrange it
something like the annexed figure, placing all the details of both
screens as before described, and finally making V-shaped grooves at A
and B, where the bends are to be made. Gum up into shape and afterwards
gum in position as before described. Very often this kind of engine has
no ‘tender,’ and is called a ‘tank’ engine.
[Illustration: Fig. 15.]
Now obtain some coal and break it into small pieces--about the size of
gum arabic when purchased. These are to be gummed on the card marked C,
in Fig. 13 to fill the space level between it and the back screen, and
thus give the appearance of a tender well filled with coal. The tender
will now be as represented at Fig. 15.
[Illustration: Fig. 16.]
Our attention must now be given to the _wheels_. We require five pairs.
The diameter of these should be equal to the spaces cut out on the
‘foundation’ in Fig. 1, viz. one pair one inch and a quarter, one pair
(fly-wheels) one inch and three-quarters, and three pairs one inch and a
half. They are to be cut out of ‘thick’ card; the fly-wheels should have
sixteen _spokes_, the others may have eight or twelve. In the centre of
each wheel make a pin-hole. Fig. 16, full size, will show you how to
mark and cut out your wheels. The shaded part is to be cut out neatly
and carefully with a sharp knife. As each wheel is cut out, paint it
chrome-green, and edge each spoke with black. Next obtain a piece or
pieces of wood about three-eighths of an inch square at the end, and
about one or two feet long. Cut off five pieces, each two inches and a
quarter long--this is probably rather longer than required, but they can
be cut shorter; they are for _axles_, and the ends should be painted
black.
[Illustration: A piece of bearing shaft. Full size.]
[Illustration: Bearing shaft complete, quarter of size.]
Having all these prepared, fix each pair of wheels to an axle by
sticking a pin through a pin-hole. They are not to be permanently fixed
until the axles are stuck on the foundation, as possibly some of the
pins may require to be placed higher or lower in the axles in order that
all the wheels may be level at the bottom and the engine stand firmly
when on a smooth surface. When this is done, fasten the wheels very
firmly to the axles with pins cut in half. I should add, the wheels are
_not_ intended to revolve. Next provide ‘bearing-shafts’ by taking
strips of thin card, the same length as the foundation, and about half
an inch wide; draw a line down the the middle of each from end to end.
Now fit them to the sides in order to mark on them the positions of the
engine-wheel centres, A, B, C. At these make curves, as shown. Cut
through the line (1,2); it follows the centre line except at the curves;
the bottom is quite straight. Paint this ‘vermilion,’ or better still,
‘crimson-lake,’ and edge with white. The bearing shafts are continued
round the ends front and rear, but for these it is best to take separate
pieces of card of medium thickness; they are only a quarter of an inch
wide; paint and edge like the side pieces. Gum in position on the sides
and ends of foundation; only the curved parts at A, B, C appear above,
the straight part of the upper edge is ‘flush’ (that is, exactly even)
with the _foundation_.
Our copper wire (No. 9 in list) is now needed. Cut two pieces just long
enough to fit _tightly_ between the second and third ‘raiseups,’ fix
them in position parallel with boiler, rather more than half-way up, and
near the edge of the ‘raiseups.’
LAMPS are now to be made and fixed on the space in front; they are best
made out of pieces of wood--the remainder of that used for axles will be
useful for this if cut down; they should be about three-eighths of an
inch wide and thick, and half an inch high. Paint the front side of one
white, of the other green; when dry, make a circle on this front, and
paint _all black except within the circles_; make two similar for the
back, but these paint _vermilion_ for the _centres_. In the top of each
insert a bent pin with its head cut off for a handle.
Now make the buffers, the instructions for making steam-funnel will tell
you how: the only difference is that there is to be _no hole_ in the
circular card at the end. The front part is painted vermilion, the rest
black. Two are required at each end; they are placed on the
bearing-shafts front and rear, about three-eighths of an inch from the
sides.
The ‘FUNNEL’ now requires our attention. It is made of paper, long
enough and wide enough, when tightly rolled, to form a cylinder about
half an inch in diameter and two inches long. Gum the edge down. For the
top, cut a circular ring, of medium card, three-quarters of an inch in
diameter outside, half an inch in diameter inside. Fit this neatly on
the top of the cylinder. Paint it black and gum in the centre of the
funnel-box, previously described. A gold line or strip of gilt paper
round the top of the funnel improves the appearance.
[Illustration: Fig. 17.]
[Illustration: Funnel top.]
A circular piece of medium card three-quarters of an inch in diameter,
with a black cross or diamond painted on it, should be placed in front
of the funnel-box. (Fig. 17).
_Safety-valves_, connected with the ‘dome,’ should now be put. Obtain
two rather thick sewing-needles, about two inches long; make with the
points two small holes, one-eighth of an inch apart, just behind the red
strip at the back of the ‘dome;’ push the eye end of one of these
needles carefully through these holes, so as to allow them to stand out
about an inch and a half. They should incline to each other at the top,
but otherwise be perpendicular. They are connected with the dome by pins
with the heads cut off, but whose points are stuck into a little cube of
cork gummed on the top of the dome.
The engine is now tolerably complete, and only requires to be varnished.
For this purpose, obtain some ‘crystal’ varnish, of good quality, and
apply it with a large camel-hair brush. One good coat should suffice.
Let it thoroughly dry before handling.
There are many little details which will probably occur to you. I have
seen a metal cartridge-case used to represent a cylinder, a wire coming
from the top representing the steam feed-pipe. Little pieces of chain,
front and back, represent coupling-chains. In some, the apparatus for
applying the vacuum brake is imitated. All you need do is to use your
eyes and exercise your ingenuity. Should you fail at first, do not be
discouraged; try once more. There are no obstacles but what may be
conquered by patient and persevering attention.
II.--A HOME-MADE HUMMING-TOP.
The humming-top is a familiar toy that does not cost much to buy. At the
same time there is always a satisfaction in making a thing for
oneself--particularly when it costs nothing.
As it happens that a good loud humming-top can be made for nothing, we
feel sure that some of our readers will not be above trying their hands
at it.
[Illustration]
The materials are an empty baking-powder canister, or any wooden box,
and two pieces of firewood. The plan of operations is to cut a slit in
the side of the box answering to the hole in the toy, making it half an
inch square or round, as the case may be, and making a hole in the lid
and bottom of the box for the spindle to come through. To make a good
job of it the bottom hole should be square and the top hole round, and
the spindle should be cut to fit, pushing it in, of course, from the
bottom. When the holes and spindle are cut, put a little glue round the
lid to make the box tight, and insert the spindle with a little glue at
each hole. For the usual fork or handle with which the top is spun, a
plain slip of wood with a hole at the end will be found to answer.
Very simple preparations all these, and yet everything is ready except
the string.
When the top is dry, wind round the string, passing it through the hole
in the handle as shown, and spin.