Leaving the course of the river--A pass--An arid plain--More
vanishing soldiers--Another river--A _mani_ wall--_Mirage?_--A
large Tibetan encampment--The chain of mountains North of us.
THE river was turning too much towards the South, so I decided to abandon
it and strike across country, especially as there were faint signs of a
track leading over a pass to 110° (b.m.) from camp. I followed this
track, and along it I distinguished marks of hundreds of ponies' hoofs,
now almost entirely washed away. This was evidently the way taken by the
soldiers we had encountered on the other side of the Maium Pass.
Having risen over the col 17,750 feet, we saw before us an extensive
valley with barren hills scattered over it. To the South we observed a
large plain some ten miles wide, with snowy peaks rising on the farther
side. In front was a hill projecting into the plain, on which stood a
_mani_ wall; and this latter discovery made me feel quite confident that
I was on the high road to Lhassa. About eight miles off to the NNW. were
high snowy peaks, and as we went farther we found a lofty mountain range,
with still higher peaks, three miles behind it. We had travelled half-way
across the waterless plain, when we noticed a number of soldiers' heads
and matchlocks popping in and out from behind a distant hill. After a
while they came out in numbers to observe our movements, then retired
again behind the hill. We proceeded, but when we were still half a mile
from them they abandoned their hiding-place, and galloped away before us,
raising clouds of dust. From a hill 16,200 feet, over which the track
crossed, we perceived a group of very high snowy peaks about eight miles
distant. Between them and us stood a range of hills cut by a valley,
along which flowed a river carrying a large volume of water. This we
followed to 126° (b.m.), and having found a suitable fording-place, we
crossed over at a spot where the stream was twenty-five yards across, and
the water reached up to our waists. We found here another _mani_ wall
with large inscriptions on stones, and as the wind was very high and
cutting, we made use of it to shelter us. Within the angle comprised
between bearings 240° and 120° (b.m.) we could observe a very high, snowy
mountain range in the distance (the great Himahlyan chain), and lower
hill ranges even as near as three miles from camp. The river we had just
crossed flowed into the Brahmaputra, and we were now at an elevation of
15,700 feet. We saw plainly at sunset a number of black tents before us
at bearings 120°; we calculated them to be two miles distant. We counted
about sixty, as well as hundreds of black yaks.
[Illustration: AN EFFECT OF MIRAGE]
At sunrise the next morning, much to our surprise, they had all vanished;
nor, on marching in the direction where we had seen them the previous
night, were we able to find traces of them. It seemed as if it must have
been _mirage_. Eventually, however, some fourteen miles away, across a
grassy plain bounded to the North-East by the range extending from
North-West to South-East, and with lofty snowy peaks at 72° some five
miles off, we came upon a very large Tibetan encampment of over eighty
black tents at an altitude of 15,650 feet. They were pitched on the banks
of another tributary of the Brahmaputra, which, after describing a great
curve in the plain, passed West of the encampment. Five miles off, in the
arc of circle described from 310° to 70° (b.m.), stood the chain of
mountains which I had observed all along; but here the elevations of its
peaks became gradually lower and lower, so much so that the name of "hill
range" would be more appropriate to it than that of "mountain chain."
Behind it, however, towered loftier peaks again with their snowy caps.