Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A
dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A
new friend.
WE slept very little, as we expected the soldiers to attack us during the
night to try and stop our progress, but all was quiet and nothing
happened; our yaks, however, managed to get loose, and we had some
difficulty in recovering them in the morning, for they had swum across
the stream, and had gone about a mile from camp on the other side.
The night had been very cold, the thermometer dropping as low as 32½°. We
did not pitch our little tent, in case of emergencies, and we were tired
and cold after the long march of the previous day. There was a
South-westerly breeze blowing and I found it hard to have to cross the
river, chase the yaks and bring them back to camp. Then, exhausted as we
were, we had in addition to go through the daily routine of loading them.
We followed the right bank of the stream to bearings 170° (m.), then to
142° 30' (b.m.), where it wound in and out between barren hills,
subsequently flowing through a grassy valley three-quarters of a mile
wide and a mile and a half long. It then went through a narrow passage to
17° 30' (b.m.) and turned to 103° and farther to 142° through an
undulating grassy valley two miles wide, in crossing which we were caught
in a terrific thunderstorm, with hail and rain. This was indeed an
annoying experience, for we were now before a very large tributary of the
Brahmaputra, and the stream was so swollen, rapid and deep that I was
much puzzled as to how to take my men across: they could not swim, and
the water was so cold that a dip in it would give any one a severe shock.
However, there was no time to be lost, for the river was visibly rising,
and as the storm was getting worse, difficulties would only increase
every moment. We took off every stitch of clothing and fastened our
garments, with our rifles, &c., on the pack-saddles of the yaks, which we
sent into the water. They are good swimmers, and though the current
carried them over a hundred yards down stream, we saw them with
satisfaction scramble out of the water on to the opposite bank.
Notwithstanding the faith that Chanden Sing and Mansing had in my
swimming, they really thought that their last hour had come when I took
each by the hand and asked them to follow me into the stream. Hardly had
we gone twelve yards when the inevitable took place. We were all three
swept away, and Chanden Sing and Mansing in their panic clung tight to my
arms and dragged me under water. Though I swam my hardest with my legs,
we continually came to the surface and then sank again, owing to the dead
weight of my helpless mates. But at last, after a desperate struggle, the
current washed us on to the opposite side, where we found our feet, and
were soon able to scramble out of the treacherous river. We were some two
hundred yards down stream from the spot at which we had entered the
river, and such was the quantity of muddy water we had swallowed that we
all three became sick. This left us much exhausted, and, as the storm
showed no signs of abating, we encamped (16,320 feet) there and then on
the left bank of the stream. Though we sadly needed some warm food, there
was, of course, no possibility of lighting a fire. A piece of chocolate
was all I had that night, and my men preferred to eat nothing rather than
break their caste by eating my food.
[Illustration: TIBETAN DOG]
[Illustration: SMALL MANI WALL]
We were asleep under our little tent, the hour being about eleven, when
there was a noise outside as of voices and people stumbling against
stones. I was out in a moment with my rifle, and shouted the usual
"_Paladò_" ("Go away"), in answer to which, though I could see nothing
owing to the darkness, I heard several stones flung from slings whizzing
past me. One of these hit the tent, and a dog barked furiously. I fired a
shot in the air, which had the good effect of producing a hasty retreat
of our enemies, whoever they were. The dog, however, would not go. He
remained outside barking all night, and it was only in the morning, when
I gave him some food and caressed him in Tibetan fashion, with the usual
words of endearment, "_Chochu, Chochu_," that our four-footed foe became
friendly, rubbing himself against my legs as if he had known me all his
life, and taking a particular fancy to Mansing, by whose side he lay
down. From that day he never left our camp, and followed us everywhere,
until harder times came upon us.