My husband received the Governor upon deck, and carried him into the

round-house, who, as soon as he was there, told my husband, that

contrary to the usage of the King of Spain, his Majesty had commanded

that his ships and forts should first salute the King of England's

Ambassador, and that his Majesty had commanded that both in that place

of Cadiz and in all others to the Court of Madrid, my husband and all

his retinue should be entertained upon the King's account, in as full

and ample manner, both as to persons and conveyance of our goods and

persons, as if his Majesty were there in person. My husband and self

and children went in the barge, the rest in other barges provided for

that purpose.

At our setting off, Sir John Lawson saluted us with very many guns,

and as we went near the shore the cannon saluted us in great numbers.

When we landed we were carried on shore in a rich chair supported by

eight men: we were welcomed by many volleys of shot, and all the

persons of quality of that town by the sea-side, among whom was the

Governor, did conduct my husband with all his train. There were

infinite numbers of people, who with the soldiery did show us all the

respect and welcome imaginable. I was received by his Excellency Don

Melchor de la Cueva, the Duke of Albuquerque's brother, and the

Governor of the garrison, who both led me four or five paces to a rich

sedan, which carried me to the coach where the Governor's lady was,

who came out immediately to salute me, and whom, after some

compliments, I took into the coach with me and my children.

When we came to the house where we were to lodge, we were nobly

treated, and the Governor's wife did me the honour to sup with me.

That afternoon the Duke of Albuquerque came to visit my husband, and

afterwards me, with his brother Don Melchor de la Cueva. As soon as

the Duke was seated and covered, he said, 'Madam, I am Don Juan de la

Cueva, Duke of Albuquerque, Viceroy of Milan, of his Majesty's privy

council, General of the galleys, twice Grandee, the first Gentleman of

his Majesty's bed-chamber, and a near kinsman to his Catholic Majesty,

whom God long preserve!' and then rising up and making me a low

reverence with his hat off, said, 'These, with my family and life, I

lay at your Excellency's feet.'

They were accompanied by a very great train of gentlemen. At his going

away, he told me his Lady would suddenly visit me. We had a guard

constantly waited on us, and sentries at the gate below and at the

stairs' head above. We were visited by all the persons of quality in

that town. Our house was richly furnished, both my husband's quarter

and mine; the worst chamber and bed in my apartment being furnished

with damask, in which my chambermaid lay; and throughout all the

chambers the floors were covered with Persia carpets. The richness of

the gilt and silver plate, which we had in great abundance, as we had

likewise of all sorts of very fine household linen, was fit only for

the entertainment of so great a Prince as his Majesty, our Master, in

the representation of whose person my husband received this great

entertainment; yet, I assure you, notwithstanding this temptation,

that your father and myself both wished ourselves in a retired country

life in England, as more agreeable to both our inclinations.

I must not forget here the ceremony the Governor used to my husband.

After supper, the Governor brought the keys of the town to my husband,

saying, 'Whilst your Excellency is here, I am no Governor of this

town, and therefore desire your Excellency, from me your servant, to

receive these keys, and to begin and give the word to the garrison.'

This night my husband, with all the demonstrations of his sense of so

great an honour, returned his Catholic Majesty, by him, his humble

thanks, refusing the keys, and wishing the Governor much prosperity

with them, who so well deserved that honour the King had given him.

Then the Governor pressed my husband again for the word, which my

husband gave, and was this: 'Long live his Catholic Majesty!' Then the

Governor took his leave, and his Lady of me, whom I accompanied to the

stairs' head.

The next day we were visited by the Mayor and all the Burgesses of the

town. On the same day, Saturday the 8th, the Governor's Lady sent me a

very noble present of India plate and other commodities thereof. In

the afternoon the Duchess of Albuquerque sent a gentleman to me, to

know if with conveniency her Excellency might visit me the next day,

as the custom of the Court is.

On Sunday the 9th, her Excellency with her daughter, who was newly

married to her uncle Don Melchor de la Cueva, visited me. I met them

at the stairs' head, and at her Excellency's going, there parted with

her. Her Excellency had on, besides other very rich jewels, as I

guess, about two thousand pearls, the roundest, the whitest, and the

biggest that ever I saw in my life.

On Thursday the 13th, the English Consul with all the merchants

brought us a present of two silver basins and ewers, with a hundred

weight of chocolate, with crimson taffeta clothes, laced with silver

laces, and voiders, which were made in the Indies, as were also the

basins and ewers.

This afternoon I went to pay my visit to the Duchess of Albuquerque.

When I came to take coach, the soldiers stood to their arms, and the

Lieutenant that held the colours displaying them, which is never done

to any one but to Kings, or such as represent their persons. I stood

still all the while, then at the lowering of the colours to the

ground, they received for them a low courtesy from me, and for himself

a bow; then taking coach, with very many persons both in coaches and

on foot, I went to the Duke's palace, where I was again received by a

guard of his Excellency's, with the same ceremony of the King's

colours as before. Then I was received by the Duke's brother and near

a hundred persons of quality. I laid my hand upon the wrist of his

Excellency's right hand; he putting his cloak thereupon, as the

Spanish fashion is, went up the stairs, upon the top of which stood

the Duchess and her daughters, who received me with great civility,

putting me, into every door, and all my children, till we came to sit

down in her Excellency's chamber, where she placed me on her right

hand, upon cushions, as the fashion of this Court is, being very rich

and laid upon Persia carpets.

At my return, the Duchess and her daughter went out before me, and at

the door of her Excellency's chamber, I met the Duke, who with his

brother and the rest of the gentlemen that did accompany our gentlemen

during our stay there, went down together before me. When I took my

leave of the Duchess, in the same place where his Excellency received

me, the Duke led me down to the coach in the same manner as his

brother led me up the stairs; and having received the ceremony of the

soldiers, I returned home to my lodgings; where after I had been an

hour, Don Antonio de Pimentel, the Governor of Cadiz, who that day was

newly come to town, after having been to visit my husband, came to

visit me with great company, on the part of his Catholic Majesty, and

afterwards upon his own score. He sent me a very rich present of

perfumes, skins, gloves, and purses embroidered, with other nacks of

the same kind.

Sir John Lawson being now ready to depart from Cadiz, we presented him

with a pair of flagons, one hundred pounds, and a tun of Luzena wine,

which cost us forty pounds, and a hundred and forty pieces-of-eight

for his men. We sent Captain Ferne two hundred pieces-of-eight, and to

his men forty pieces-of-eight, they being very careful of our goods,

the most of which he brought. We sent Captain Berkeley a hundred

pieces-of-eight, and to his men twenty; he carried part of our horses,

as did Captain Utber, to whom we sent a like sum.

On the 19th of March, we took our leave of Cadiz, where we gave at our

coming away, to persons that attended on us in several offices, two

hundred and eighty pieces-of-eight. We were accompanied to the water-

side in the same manner. We were received on shore with all points of

formality, and having taken our leave, with many thanks and

compliments to the Governor, and Don Diego Ibara, his lady, and all

the rest of those persons there, to whom we were as much beholden for

their civility, we entered the King's barge, which was newly trimmed

up for the purpose by the Duke of Medina Celi, at Puerto de Sta Maria.

No person ever went in it before but the King. The Governor, Don

Antonio de Pimentel, went with us in the barge, and many other barges

were provided by him for all our train.

At our going we had many volleys of shot, afterwards many cannons, and

as we went, the guns of all the ships in the harbour. When we were

come over the bar, all the forts by St. Mary's Port saluted us; and

when we came to the shore-side, we found many thousand soldiers in

arms, in very great order, with their commanders, and a bridge made on

purpose for us, with great curiosity, so far into the river, that the

end of the bridge touched the side of the barge. At the end of the

bridge stood the Duke of Medina Celi and his son, the Duke of Alcala.

During the time of our landing, we had infinite volleys of shot,

presented with drums beating and trumpets sounding, and all the

demonstration of hearty welcome imaginable.

The two dukes embraced my husband with great kindness, welcoming him

to the place, and the Duke of Medina Celi led me to my coach, an

honour that he had never done any but once, when he waited on your

Queen to help her on the like occasion. The Duke d'Alcala led my

eldest daughter, and the younger led my second, and the Governor of

Cadiz, Don Antonio de Pimentel, led the third. Mrs. Kestian carried

Betty in her arms.

Thus I entered the Duchess of Alcala's coach, which conveyed me to my

lodging, the ceremony of the King's colours being performed as at

Cadiz. We passed through the streets, in which were an infinite number

of people, to a house provided for us, the best of all the place,

which was caused to be glazed by the Duke on purpose for us. At our

alighting out of the coaches, the Duke led me up into my apartment,

with an infinite number of noblemen and gentlemen, his relations;

there they took their leave of me, conducting my husband to his

quarter, with whom they stayed in visit about half an hour, and so

returned to his house. After I had been there three hours, the Duchess

of Alcala sent a gentleman to say her Excellency welcomed me to the

place, and that, as soon as I was reposed after my long voyage, she

would wait upon me: in like manner did the Marquis of Bayona and his

lady, and their son with his lady.

I must not pass by the description of the entertainment, which was

vastly great, tables being plentifully covered every meal for above

three hundred persons. The furniture was all rich tapestry,

embroideries of gold and silver upon velvet, cloth of tissue, both

gold and silver, with rich Persia carpets on the floors: none could

exceed them. Very delicate fine linen of all sorts, both for table and

beds, never washed, but new cut out of the piece, and all things

thereunto belonging. The plate was vastly great and beautiful, nor for

ornament were they fewer than the rest of the bravery, there being

very fine cabinets, looking-glasses, tables, and chairs.

On Thursday, at two in the afternoon, the Duchess of Alcala came to

visit me; she had lain in but three weeks of a daughter. The day

before she performed all the ceremonies and civilities, which is the

custom, of the Court to me and mine.

On the 21st I was visited by the Marquesa of Bayona, and all that

noble family. On the 23rd I went to repay the Duchess of Alcala her

Excellency's visit, and to give her thanks for my noble entertainment;

a part thereof being provided under the care of her Excellency.

I likewise went to pay the visit to the Marquesa de Bayona. On Monday

the 24th, [Footnote: The new style is here used.] we began our journey

from Port St. Mary to Madrid, and taking leave of all the company, we

gave one hundred pieces-of-eight to the servants of the family, and

fifty pieces-of-eight to the Duke's coachman and footmen. The Duke

accompanied me in the same manner as he did when he brought me to the

coachside when we landed; and afterwards my husband and the Duke

entering the Duke's coach, he brought us a mile out of town, as did

also the Marquis of Bayona, and his lady, with an infinite number of

persons of the best quality of that place.

That night we went to Xerez, being met, a league before we came to the

town, by the Corregidor, accompanied by many gentlemen and coaches of

that place, with many thousands of common people, who conducted us to

a house provided for us, as the King had commanded, with plenty of all

sorts of accommodation. My husband made his entry into the town in the

Corregidor's coach, as he did in all places up to Madrid.

At this town I was visited by my Lord Dongan's [Footnote: Sir William

Dongan, who was created Baron Dongan and Viscount Dongan of Claine, in

the county of Kildare, in the Peerage of Ireland, in 1661. He was

raised to the Earldom of Limerick, by James the Second, in 1685, and

was attainted in 1691. A letter from him to Sir Richard Fanshawe,

dated at Xeres, 1st June 1664, occurs among the Original Letters of

Sir Richard Fanshawe, printed in 1701, page 102; and in his

correspondence with Lord Arlington, in the British Museum, he thus

alluded to him:--MADRID, 3rd June, 1666, stilo loci. "Lord Dongan

intends to set forth from this Court to England upon Friday next."-

Harl. MS. 7010, f. 274. MADRID, 6th of June, 1665, stilo loci. "The

bearer hereof, my Lord Dongan, passing through this Court for England,

offered me an opportunity of congratulating your Excellency, &c."--

Ibid. f. 276.] lady, who lives there, and whose visit I repaid the

next day before I left the town. We received letters by a gentleman,

sent express from the Duke of Medina Celi, and the Duke of Alcala, who

both wrote to my husband, and his Duchess to me, all of them

expressing great civility and kindness. By the bearer of these letters

we returned the acknowledgment of their favours in our letters, to all

their Excellencies, and presented the knight that brought them with a

chain of gold that cost thirty pounds sterling.

At nine o'clock we left the pleasant town of Xerez, and lodged the

next night at Lebrija; and the next night at Utrera, where we saw the

ruins of a brave town, nothing remaining extraordinary, but the

fineness of the situation. We were met there by Don Lope de Mendoca,

who was sent with his troop of horse from Seville, by command of the

Asistente of that city, [Footnote: The Asistencia of Seville is a high

municipal office, peculiar to that city. Dic. de la Acad: Espan.] the

Conde de Molina. There came out to meet us also, the Corregidor of

Utrera, with an infinite number of persons of all qualities, who met

us a league from the town, as did also the English Consul of Seville,

with many English merchants, who had clothed twelve footmen in new

liveries, to show the more respect to my husband. We were lodged in a

priest's house, which was very nobly furnished for our reception, and

our treatment was answerable thereunto.

Thursday the 27th of March, we entered Seville, being met a league

from the city by the assistant, the Conde de Molina, with many hundred

coaches, with nobility and gentry in them, and very many thousands of

the burgesses and common people of the town. My husband, after usual

compliments passed, went into the Conde's coach. I followed my husband

in my own coach, as I ever did in all places; all the pages going next

my coach on horseback, and then our coach of state, and other coaches

and litters behind, many of the gentlemen and servants riding on

horseback, and many of the gentlemen did ride before the coach. Thus

we entered that great city that had been, of Seville, though now much

decayed. We lay in the King's palace, [Footnote: The Alcazar.] which

was very royally furnished on purpose for our reception, and all our

treatment during our stay. We were lodged in a silver bedstead, quilt,

curtains, valances, and counterpane of crimson damask, embroidered

richly with flowers of gold. The tables of precious stones, and the

looking-glasses bordered with the same; the chairs the same as the

bed, and the floor covered with rich Persia carpets, and a great

brasero of silver, filled full of delicate flowers, which was

replenished every day as long as we stayed. The hangings were of

tapestry full of gold, all which furniture was never lain in but two

nights, when his Majesty was at Seville. Within my chamber was a

dressing-room, and by that, a chamber very richly furnished, in which

my children lay, and within them all my women: on the other side of

the chamber as I came in, was my dining-room, in which I did

constantly eat. I and my children eating at a table alone, all the

way, without any company, till we came to our journey's end, where we

provided for ourselves at Ballecas, within a league of Madrid. In this

palace, the chief room of my husband's quarters was a gallery, wherein

were three pair of Indian cabinets of japan, the biggest and

beautifulest that ever I did see in my life: it was furnished with

rich tapestry hangings, rich looking-glasses, tables, Persia carpets,

and cloth of tissue chairs. This palace hath many princely rooms in

it, both above and underneath the ground, with many large gardens,

terraces, walks, fish-ponds, and statues, many large courts and

fountains, all of which were as well dressed for our reception as art

or money could make them.

During our stay in this palace, we were every day entertained with a

variety of recreations; as shows upon the river, stage plays, dancing,

men playing at legerdemain, which were constantly ushered in with very

great banquets, and so finished.

On the 30th, the Malaga merchants of the English presented my husband

with a very fine horse, that cost them three hundred pounds. On the

1st of April, the English merchants of Seville, with their Consul,

presented us with a quantity of chocolate and as much sugar, with

twelve fine sarcenet napkins laced thereunto belonging, with a very

large silver pot to make it in, and twelve very fine cups to drink it

out of, filigree, with covers of the same, with two very large salvers

to set them upon, of silver.

On Thursday the 3rd of April, 1664, we took our leave of the assistant

and the rest of that noble company at Seville. The Conde de Molina,

who was Asistente of Seville, presented me with a young lion; but I

desired his Excellency's pardon that I did not accept of it, saying I

was of so cowardly a nature, I durst not keep company with it. In the

same manner as they received us, so they accompanied us a league

onward on our way, whereupon my husband alighting out of the Conde's

coach, and having with me taken leave of all the company, both he and

I got upon horseback; and here we took our leave of my Lord Dongan,

who with great kindness brought us so far from Xerez. Some of the

Malaga merchants of Seville accompanied us on our journey. That night

we lay at Carmona; and on the 4th of April at Fuentes, the Onor of the

Marquis, who is now at Paris, Ambassador from the King of Spain to

that Court. On the 5th we lay at Ezija, where we received noble

entertainment from the noblemen and gentlemen of that town; where we

stayed till Thursday, the 8th of April, and after paying thanks to

those persons that had so well ordered that noble entertainment with

great civility to us, we went that night to Cordova, where, a league

before we came to the town, we were met by the Corregidor with near a

hundred coaches, and a foot company of soldiers stood on each side of

the way, giving volleys of shot, with displayed colours and trumpets,

with many thousands of people, who by fireworks and other expressions

showed much joy. Here we parted with Don Lope, a gentleman sent from

the Conde de Molina to this place to accompany us.

We were lodged at a very brave house, and as bravely furnished: at

night we had a play acted, and during our stay there we saw many

nunneries, and the best churches, as we had likewise done at Seville

and at all the other towns through which we had passed in our journey

from the seaside. We had there the feast of the bulls, called in the

Spanish tongue juego de toros. [Footnote: Properly "corridas de toros"

i.e., bull fights.] We had likewise another sport, called juego de

canas [Footnote: A kind of tournament played with canes instead of

lances.] in which appeared very many fine gentlemen, fine horses, and

very fine trappings. We had abundance of entertainments, and yet their

civility and good manners exceeded all, as likewise the fame of that

place, which is so highly renowned in the world for noble and well-

bred gentlemen. The Corregidor presented me with twelve great cases of

amber and orange-water, reputed to be the best in the world, with

twelve barrels of olives, which have likewise the same fame.

Upon Thursday the 15th of April we took our leave of Cordova, and all

those noble persons therein, lodging that night at Carpio, the

Marquisship of Don Lewis de Haro; and on the 16th, we lodged at

Andujar, and on the 17th at Linares; the 18th we entered the Sierra

Morena, and lodged at St. Estevan, the Onor of a Conde, who is at

present Vice-King of Peru; on the 19th, we came out of the Sierra

Morena, and lodged that night at la Torre de Juan-Abad; on the 20th we

lay at La Membrilla, and there stayed all day on Monday and Tuesday;

the 22nd at Villarta: here rises the river Guadiana, that goes under

ground seven leagues before. On the 23rd, we lay at Consuegra; here

Don John of Austria was nursed. The 24th, we lay at Mora; on the 25th,

we lay at the famous city of Toledo, two leagues from that town. The

Marquis of----, Governor of Toledo, met us, in whose coach my husband

went with him towards the town, where within half a league he was met

by four persons that represented the city, and all the city of Toledo,

with all the noblemen and gentlemen of that town. A little farther the

Marquis's lady met me, who alighting out of her coach, and I to meet

her, after some compliments passed, I entered her coach with my

children, and so passed through the streets, in which there were both

water-works and fire-works, and many thousand people of all sorts, and

companies of soldiers giving us volleys of shots.

We alighted at the gate, the Marquis leading me up into my lodgings.

This house, next to the King's Palace at Seville, was both the largest

and the noblest furnished that I saw in all my journey; and likewise

all the streets of the city were hung with rich tapestry and other

things of silver and gold embroidery, through which we passed. We were

there entertained, during our stay, with comedies and music, and juego

de toros, and with great plenty of provisions of all sorts, that were

necessary to demonstrate a princely entertainment. I eat constantly at

a table on purpose provided for me, at which the Marquesa kept me

company, as she did likewise whenever I went to visit any remarkable

place, of which there are many in Toledo, but none comparable to the

great church, which for the greatness and beauty of it I have not seen

many better, but for the riches therein never the like. Here my

husband received another message from the Duke de Medina las Torres,

desiring him to meet him at Valdemoro the Friday following, his

Catholic Majesty being then at Aranjuez. This message was sent by a

gentleman of his own, the other that he sent to welcome us into this

country, being under-gentleman of the horse to her Majesty.

Upon Thursday the 29th of April, we took our leave of the Marquis and

his lady, giving one hundred and eighty pieces-of-eight among his

family. The night we lay at Yllescas, and on the 30th we came to

Ballecas, where we found a house provided for us. Here the King's

entertainment ceased, and we provided for all the accommodations of

our family, the bare house only excepted. We continued at Ballecas

till the 8th of June following, during which time there happened

nothing extraordinary; the Duke often sending his secretary to my

husband about business, and the Master of the Ceremonies about our

constant endeavour to get a house, though at last we were glad to go

to a part of a house of the Conde de Irvias, [Footnote: Query] where

the Duke of St. Germain had lived before. Here we received many

messages of welcome to the Court from all the Ambassadors and all the

Grandees, and I from the Ambassadors' ladies, the Duchess de Medina

las Torres, with great numbers of the greatest persons of quality in

Madrid. The men visited my husband, but I could not suffer the ladies

to visit me, though they much desired it, because I was so straitened

in my lodgings, which in no sort were convenient to receive persons of

that quality in, not being capacious enough for our own family, for

whose accommodation we took Count Marcin's house close by this.

On Wednesday the 18th of June, my husband had his audience of his

Catholic Majesty; who sent the Marquis de Malpica to conduct him, and

brought with him a horse of his Majesty's for my husband to ride on,

and thirty more for his gentlemen, and his Majesty's coach with the

guard that he was captain of. No Ambassador's coach accompanied my

husband but the French, who did it contrary to the King's command; who

had before, upon my husband's demanding the custom of Ambassadors

accompanying all other Ambassadors that came into this Court at their

audience, replied, that although it had been so, it should be so no

more; saying, it was a custom brought into this Court within less than

these twenty-five years, and that it caused many disputes, for which

he would no more suffer it. To this order all the Ambassadors in this

Court submitted but the French, whose Secretary told my husband, at

his coming that morning, that his Master, the Ambassador, said that

his Catholic Majesty had nothing to do to give his Master orders, nor

would he obey any of them; and so great was this work of

supererogation on the part of the French, that they waited on my

husband from the palace home, a compliment till that time never seen

before.

About 11 o'clock set forth out of his lodgings my husband thus:--First

went all those gentlemen of the town and palace that came to accompany

him: then went twenty footmen all in new liveries of the same colour

we used to give, which is a dark green cloth with a frost upon green

lace; then went my husband's gentlemen, and next before himself his

camaradoes two and two:

Mr. Wycherley and Mr. Lorimer,

Mr. Godolphin, Sir Edward Turner,

Sir Andrew King, Sir Benjamin Wright,

Mr. Newport and Mr. Bertie.

Then my husband, in a very rich suit of clothes of a dark fillemorte

brocade laced with silver and gold lace, nine laces, every one as

broad as my hand, and a little silver and gold lace laid between them,

both of very curious workmanship; his suit was trimmed with scarlet

taffety ribbon; his stockings of white silk upon long scarlet silk

ones; his shoes black, with scarlet shoe-strings and garters; his

linen very fine, laced with very rich Flanders lace; a black beaver,

buttoned on the left side, with a jewel of twelve hundred pounds

value. A rich curious-wrought gold chain, made in the Indies, at which

hung the King his Master's picture, richly set with diamonds, cost 300

pounds which his Majesty, in great grace and favour, had been pleased

to give him at his coming home from Portugal. On his fingers he wore

two rich rings; his gloves trimmed with the same ribbon as his

clothes. All his whole family were very richly clothed, according to

their several qualities. Upon my husband's left hand rode the Marquis

of Malpica, Captain of the German guard, and the Mayor-domo to his

Majesty, being that week in waiting: by him went all the German guard,

and by them my husband's eight pages, clothed all in velvet, the same

colour as our liveries; next them followed his Catholic Majesty's

coach, and my husband's coach of state with four black horses, the

finest that ever came out of England, none going in this Court

[Footnote: i.e., Within the royal residence. Out of the city it was

allowed to use six horses, as will be presently seen. ] with six but

the King himself. The coach was of rich crimson velvet, laced with a

broad silver and gold lace, fringed round with a massy silver and gold

fringe, and the falls of the boot so rich that they hung almost down

to the ground: the very fringe cost almost four hundred pounds. The

coach was very richly gilt on the outside, and very richly adorned

with brass work, with rich tassels of gold and silver hanging round

the top of the curtains round about the coach. The curtains were of

rich damask, fringed with silver and gold; the harness for six horses

was richly embossed with brass work; the reins and tassels for the

horses of crimson silk, silver and gold. This coach is said to be the

finest that ever entered Madrid with any Ambassador whatsoever. Next

to this followed the French Ambassador's coach; then my husband's

second coach, which was of green figured velvet, with green damask

curtains, handsomely gilt, adorned on the outside, with harness for

six horses, suitable to the same. The four horses were fellows to

those that drew the rich coach when we went out of town, using always

six. After this followed my husband's third coach, with four mules,

being a very good one, according to the fashion of this country. Then

followed many coaches of particular persons of this Court.

Thus they rode through the greatest streets of Madrid, as the custom

is; and alighting within the palace, my husband was conducted up by

the Marquis, all the King's guards attending, through many rooms, in

which were infinite numbers of people, as there were in the streets to

see him pass to the palace up to a private drawing-room of his

Catholic Majesty's, where my husband was received with great grace and

favour by his Majesty. My husband, being covered, delivered his

message in English, interpreted afterwards by himself in Spanish.

After this my husband gave his Catholic Majesty thanks for his noble

entertainment from our landing to this Court, to which his Catholic

Majesty replied, 'That, as well for the great esteem he had ever had

for his person, as the greatness of his Master whom he served, he

would be always glad to be serviceable to him.'

After my husband's obeisance to the King, and saluting all the

grandees there waiting, he was conducted to the Queen; where having

stayed in company with her Majesty, the Empress,[Footnote: Philip the

Fourth of Spain succeeded his father Philip the Third in 1621, and

married his niece, Maria Anna, daughter of his sister of the

same name by the Emperor Ferdinand. By her he had issue a son, Charles

the Second, who succeeded him in 1665, and died in 1700, and two

daughters, Maria Theresa, who married Louis XIV. of France, and

Margaret, who was the wife of the Emperor Leopold, and who is

consequently spoken of in the Memoirs as the Empress. The ceremony of

her marriage by proxy, and her departure for her husband's dominions,

are afterwards fully noticed.] and the Prince, took his leave. He

returned home in his Majesty's coach, with the Marquis of Malpica

sitting at the same end, accompanied by the same persons that went

with him, having a banquet ready for them at their return. That day in

the evening my husband visited his Excellency the Duke de Medina de

las Torres; and the next morning, all the Council of State, as the

custom of this Court is.

Upon the 21st, all the Ambassadors at this Court, one after the other,

visited my husband, as did also the grandees and nobles; his

Excellency the Duke de Medina de las Torres beginning. On the 24th, my

husband had a private audience of his Catholic Majesty; on the 27th, I

waited on the Queen and the Empress, with my daughters and all my

train. I was received at the Buen Retiro by the guard, and afterwards,

when I came up-stairs, by the Marquesa of Isincessa,[Footnote: Qu.

Inojosa?] the Queen's Camarera Mayor, then in waiting. Through

infinite number of people I passed to the Queen's presence, where her

Majesty was seated at the upper end under a cloth of state, upon three

cushions, and on the left hand the Empress, and three more; the ladies

were all standing. After making my last reverence to the Queen, her

Majesty and the Empress rising up, and making me a little courtesy,

sat down again; then I, by my interpreter, Sir Benjamin Wright, said

those compliments that were due from me to her Majesty, to which her

Majesty made me a gracious and kind reply. Then I presented my

children, whom her Majesty received with great grace and favour; then

her Majesty speaking to me to sit, I sat down upon a cushion laid for

me, above all the ladies who sat, but below the Camarera Mayor, no

woman taking place of her Excellency but princesses. The children sat

on the other side, mingled with Court ladies that are maids of honour.

Thus having passed half an hour in discourse, I took my leave of her

Majesty and the Empress, making reverences to all the ladies in

passing. I returned home in the same manner as I came. The next day

the Camarera Mayor [Footnote: First Lady of the Queen's Household.]

sent to see how I did, in compliment from her Majesty.

On the 9th of July my husband sent Don Pedro Rocca, Master of the

Ceremonies, a gold chain, which cost four-score pounds; and, on the

22nd of July, the merchants of Alicant sent us a piece of purple

damask, of one hundred and thirty yards, for a present. On Saturday,

the 16th of August, we came to the house of Siete Chimeneas, which his

Majesty gave us to dwell in, having been the house where the Venetian

Ambassador dwelt, and who went out for our accommodation by the King's

command.

We settled now our family and tables in order: our own consisted of

two courses, of eight dishes each, and the steward's of four. We had

our money returned from England by Mr. Goddard, an English merchant

living in Madrid, a very honest man and an able merchant. Tuesday the

24th, we dined at the Casa del Campo, a house of his Majesty's, in the

garden of which stands a very brave statue of Philip the Second, on

horseback. October 4th, we dined at the Prado, another house of his

Majesty's, which is very fine, and hath a fine park well stored with

deer belonging to it.

October ----, we went privately to see Aranjuez, which was most part

of it built by Philip the Second, husband to Queen Mary of England.

There are the highest trees, and grow up the evenest, that ever I saw;

many of them are bored through with pipes for water to ascend and to

fall from the top down one against another; and likewise there are

many fountains in the side of this walk, and the longest walks of elms

I ever saw in my life. The park is well stored with English oaks and

elms, and deer; and the Tagus makes it an island. The gardens are

vastly large, with the most fountains, and the best, that ever I saw

in my life.

As soon as the Duke heard we were gone thither, he immediately sent

orders after us for our entertainment by a post; but we were gone

before. Going home by Esquivias, we saw those famous reputed cellars,

which are forty-four steps down, where that admirable wine is kept in

great tinajas, which are pots holding about five hundred gallons each;

and to let you know how strangely they clear their wine, it is by

putting some of the earth of the place in it, which way of refining

their wine is done no where but here.

October the 14th, the King proclaimed the lowering the vellon money

[Footnote: Properly, copper currency, as distinguished from the plata,

or silver coinage. Hence the English and French Billon, signifying

base money.] to the half; and the pistole, that was this morning at

eighty-two reals, was proclaimed to go but for forty-eight, which was

above eight hundred pounds loss to my husband.

October the 21st, we went to see the Buen Retiro. The Duke de Medina

de las Torres, who has the keeping of this house of the King's from

his Majesty, sent two of his gentlemen to show us all that belongs

thereunto. The place is adorned with much water and fountains, trees

and fine gardens, with many hermitages up and down the place, and a

very good house for his Majesty; yet the pictures therein did far

exceed the rest, they being many, and all very curious, done by the

best hand in the world in their times.

On the 27th of October we went, with all our train, to see the

Escurial, the Duke de Medina de las Torres having procured a letter

here from the Pope's Nuncio to give me leave to see the convent there,

which cannot be seen by any woman without his leave: likewise the Duke

did send letters to the Prior, commanding him to assist in showing all

the principal parts of that princely fabric, and to lodge us in the

lodging of the Duke de Montaldo, the Mayor-domo to her Majesty. We

were near eighty persons in company, and five coaches. As soon as we

were arrived there, the Prior sent two of his chief friars to welcome

us to the Escurial. The friar who met us by command a league before,

at a grange house of his Majesty's, and accompanied us to the

Escurial, being returned, these friars from the Prior brought us a

present of St. Martin's wine and melons, a calf, a kid, two great

turkeys, fine bread, apples, pears, cream, with some other fine things

of that place. On the 28th, being St. Simon's and Jude's day, we all

went early in the morning to see the church, where we were met by the

Prior at the door, with all the friars on both sides, who received us

with great kindness and respect, and all the choir singing till we

came up to the high altar; then all of them accompanied us to the

Pantheon, which was, for that purpose, hung full of lights in the

branches; there saw I the most glorious place for the covering of the

bones of their Kings of Spain that is possible to imagine. I will

briefly give you this description.

The descent is about thirty steps, all of polished marble, and arched

and lined on all sides with jasper polished; upon the left hand, in

the middle of the stairs, is a large vault, in which the bodies of

their Kings, and Queens that have been mothers of Kings, lie in silver

coffins for one year, until the moisture of their bodies be consumed.

Over against this is another vault, in which lie buried the bodies of

those Queens that had no sons at their death, and all the children of

their Kings that did not inherit. At the bottom of the stairs is the

Pantheon, built eighty feet square, and is, I guess, about sixty feet

over; the whole lining of it in all places is jasper, very curiously

carved, both in figures and flowers and imagery; and a branch for

forty lights, which is vastly rich, of silver, and hangs down from the

top by a silver chain, within three yards of the bottom, and is made

with great art, as is also this curious knot of jasper on the floor,

that the reflection of the branch and lights is perfectly there to be

seen. The bodies of their Kings lie in jasper stones, supported every

coffin by four lions of jasper at the four corners; three coffins and

three headstones are set in every arch, which arch is curiously

wrought in the roof, and supported by jasper pillars: there are seven

arches, and one in the middle at the upper end, and over against the

coming in, that contains a very curious altar and crucifix of jasper.

From thence we saw all the convent and the sacristia, in which there

were all the principal pieces that ever Titian made, and the hands of

many others of the most famous men that then were in the world.

After seeing the convent, and every part thereof, we saw the King's

palace, with the apothecary's shop, and all the stillatories, and all

belonging thereunto.

The Escurial stands under the side of a very high mountain; it has a

very fine river, and a very large park well stored with deer: it is

built upon a hill, and you ascend above half a mile through a double

row of elm-trees to the house, which is abundantly served with most

excellent water and wood for their use. The front has a large platform

paved with marble, and railed with a stone baluster round about; the

entry of the gate is supported by two marble pillars, each of them of

one entire marble, which are near twelve feet high. It is built with

seventeen courts and gardens thereunto; every court contains a

different office; the whole is built of rough marble, with pillars of

the same round the cloisters; and the walls thereof are made so

smooth, that the famous Titian hath painted them with stories all

over, among others, the story of the battle of Lepanto, and the

gallery of the palace also: they have infinite numbers of fountains,

both within and without house. It contains a very fine palace, a

convent, and a college and hospital, all which are exactly well kept

and royally furnished; but I cannot omit saying, that the finest

stillatory I ever saw is there, being a very large room shelved round,

with glasses sized and sorted upon the shelves, many of crystal gilt,

and the rest of Venice glasses, and some of vast sizes; the floor is

paved with black and white marble; and in the middle stands a furnace,

with five hundred stills around it, with glass like a pyramid, with

glass heads. The apothecary's shop is large, very richly adorned with

paint, and gilding, and marble; there is an inward room, in which the

medicines are made, as finely furnished and beautified as the shop;

all the vessels are silver, and so are all the instruments for

surgery: nothing is wanted there for that purpose that invention or

money can produce.

We were entertained with a banquet at the Prior's lodging; and

afterwards returned, accompanied by the friars, to our lodgings, where

the Prior made a visit to my husband, and my husband offered to repay

it again, sending to him to know if his Reverendissima Senoria would

give him leave to wait on him, that night, to thank him for his noble

entertainment, although both he and I had done it. The Prior excused

the visit, and so we rested that night.

I would not have you that read this book, wonder that I should not

more largely describe this so unparalleled fabric in the world; but I

do purposely omit the particulars, because they are exactly described

in a book written by the friars, and sold in that place, with all the

cuts of every particular of the place, and you have it among your

father's books. The friars of this convent are of the order of St.

Lawrence.

On the 29th, we returned home to our house at Madrid, where on

Saturday afternoon my little child, Betty, fell ill of the small-pox,

as had done my daughter Ann, in the month of September before; but

both of them, God's name be praised! recovered perfectly well, without

blemish: but as I could not receive, for want of capacity of room, the

ladies of the Court at my lodgings at the Conde de Irvias, so could I

not receive them here by reason of the smallpox in the family, and

they having twice offered to visit me, and I refused it upon that

account.

Thursday 27th November, I went to wait upon the Emperor's Ambassador's

lady, at her house; upon the 28th, I went to wait upon the Duchess de

Medina de las Torres; and on the 29th, the Emperor's Ambassador's lady

came to visit me. The same day the Duchess de Medina de las Torres

sent an excuse by Don Alonso, one of the Duke's secretaries, that she

could not visit that day, by reason her youngest daughter was fallen

sick of a fever. Sunday the 30th of November, I sent to thank the

Emperor's Ambassador's lady for the visit the day before, and to see

how she did.

Upon the 1st of December, we let our dispense for seventy-two thousand

reals vellon, a year, which, at forty-eight reals a pistole, is one

hundred and twenty-five pistoles a month: he (the contractor) paid me

this sum this day, as he is obliged to do the first day of every

month; and likewise to give me for the arrears of the dispense, which

was near eleven weeks, fourteen thousand reals.

Upon the 15th of December, was seen here at Madrid a very great

blazing star, which to our view appeared with a train of twelve or

fourteen yards long: it rose at first in the south-south-east, about

twelve o'clock at night, but altered its course during the continuance

thereof. Within a fortnight after its expiration, it appeared at six

o'clock at night with the rays reversed; it continued in our view till

the 23rd day of January.

December the 22nd, which is the Queen of Spain's birth-day, I went to

give her Majesty joy thereof, and to the Empress, and to the Prince of

Spain, in such form as the custom of this Court is. About this time I

had sent me by a Genoese merchant, that was a banker in Madrid, a box

of about a yard and a half long, and almost a yard and a half broad,

and a quarter and a half deep, covered with green taffety, and bound

with a silver lace, with lock and key; within, it was divided into

many partitions, garnished with gilt paper, and filled full of the

best and choicest sweetmeats, all dry. I never saw any so beautiful

and good before or since, besides the curiosity.

On the 23rd, we were invited to see a show, performed by forty-eight

of the chiefest of the nobility of this Court, who ran two and two on

horseback, as fast as the horses could run, in walks railed in on

purpose on both sides, before the palace-gate; over which, in a

balcony, sat the King, the Queen, and Empress; round about, in other

balconies, sat the nobility of the Court, and in an entre-suelo, at

the King's left hand, sat the chief of the Ambassadors. My husband and

I were with the Duke and Duchess de Medina de las Torres, in their own

particular quarter in the palace, which we chose as the best place,

and having the best view, whereupon we refused the balcony. The sight

was very fine, and the noblemen and horses very richly attired.

Upon the 1st of January, I received of our Dispensero, as was my due,

six thousand reals, for the month's dispense, and six thousand more in

part of arrears. Upon the 4th of January I waited on the Queen,

Prince, and Empress, to give them the buenas pascuas [Footnote:

Compliments of the season.] as the custom of this Court is.

On the 5th, here came, among other diversions of sports we had this

Christmas, Juan Arana, the famous comedian, who here acted about two

hours to the admiration of all that beheld him, considering that he

was near upon eighty years of age. About this time the Duke of Alva

sent my husband a fat buck; I never eat any better in England. We do

take it for granted in England that there is nothing good to eat in

Spain, but I assure you the want is money alone.

The 11th of December, the President of Castile gave a warrant to an

officer to execute upon Don Francisco de Ayala, to carry him prisoner

for some offences by him committed. This gentleman lived in a house

within the protection of my husband's barriers, very near to his own

dwelling-house; for which reason, no person can give or execute a

warrant for what crime soever, without the leave of the Ambassador;

but notwithstanding, the officer who executed this warrant, being

backed by the President of Castile, did seize the person of Don

Francisco de Ayala in his own house, and carried him to prison.

Notice whereof being given to my husband from him, my husband

immediately wrote a letter to the President of Castile, demanding the

prisoner to be immediately brought home to his house; that he would

not suffer the privilege of the King, his master, to be broken, making

further greater complaint of this usage to him; to which the next day,

in a letter, the President replied, that an Ambassador had no power to

protect out of his own house and household, with many other ridiculous

excuses; but all his allegations being proved against him, both by

ancient and modern custom, by hundred of examples, and nothing left

him to defend himself but his own peevish wilfulness, my husband

pursued the business with much vigour, telling the gentleman that

brought him the President's letter, that his master, the President, as

to him had once been very civil, but as to the King, his master, most

uncivil, both in the acting and defending so indecent a business; for

which reason he would not give an answer by letter to the President,

because his to the Ambassador did not deserve one; all which my

husband desired the gentleman to acquaint the President, his master,

with. Then my husband visited the gentleman in prison, a thing never

before known of an Ambassador; telling the prisoner openly, before

many gentlemen that were there accompanying of him, that he would have

him out, or else that he would immediately leave the Court. The great

number of gentlemen and servants of my husband's family gave

apprehensions to the keeper of the prison, when my husband demanded

leave to visit the prisoner.

The next day, being the 16th, Don Francisco de Ayala was visited, by

my husband's example, by most of the council and nobility of this

Court. In the evening, in a letter to the Duke de Medina de las

Torres, my husband inclosed a memorial to his Catholic Majesty,

demanding the prisoner, saying, he was very sorry that at one time, a

few years ago, in the year 1650, some English gentlemen, whereof Mr.

Sparks was one, did kill one Askew, an agent of Oliver's to the

Catholic King. When they had thus done, all those persons and degrees

made their escape but Mr. Sparks, who took sanctuary in one of their

churches; notwithstanding which, the privilege thereof being defended

both by the Archbishop of Toledo and the greatest prelates of this

kingdom, he was by the King and council pulled out of the church and

executed, so great at that time was the fear that this Court had of

Oliver; and now, violation of privileges should only have been used to

his Majesty, the King of England, assuring his Majesty he neither

could nor would put it up without ample restitution made.

Upon the perusal of this memorial, his Catholic Majesty did

immediately command the President of Castile to send his warrant the

next day, and to release Don Francisco de Ayala, and to send him home

immediately to my husband, which was done accordingly that night; and

my husband, with all his coaches and family, which were near a hundred

persons, carried him and placed him in his own house before the

officers' faces that brought him home from prison. All this you will

find in your father's transactions in his Spanish embassy. In this

action my husband did not receive so much content in the victory as

the Spaniards of all sorts, on whom it made a very great impression;

though the chief Minister of state in our country did not value this,

nor give the encouragement to such a noble action as was due. And here

I will impartially say, what I have observed of the Spanish nation,

both in their principles, customs, and country.

I find it a received opinion that Spain affords not food either good

or plentiful: true it is that strangers that neither have skill to

choose, nor money to buy, will find themselves at a loss; but there is

not in the Christian world better wines than their midland wines are

especially, besides sherry and canary. Their water tastes like milk;

their corn white to a miracle, and their wheat makes the sweetest and

best bread in the world; bacon beyond belief good; the Segovia veal

much larger and fatter than ours; mutton most excellent; capons much

better than ours. They have a small bird that lives and fattens on

grapes and corn, so fat that it exceeds the quantity of flesh. They

have the best partridges I ever eat, and the best sausages; and

salmon, pikes, and sea-breams, which they send up in pickle, called

escabeche [Footnote: "Escabeche; a pickle made of white wine, bay

leaves, sliced lemons, and spices, used for preserving fish and other

food."--Dic. de la Acad. Esp.] to Madrid, and dolphins, which are

excellent meat, besides carps, and many other sorts of fish. The

cream, called nata, is much sweeter and thicker than any I ever saw in

England; their eggs much exceed ours; and so all sorts of salads, and

roots, and fruits. What I most admired are, melons, peaches, burgamot

pears, grapes, oranges, lemons, citrons, figs, and pomegranates;

besides that I have eaten many sorts of biscuits, cakes, cheese, and

excellent sweetmeats I have not here mentioned, especially manger-

blanc; and they have olives, which are no where so good; and their

perfumes of amber excel all the world in their kind, both for

household stuff and fumes; and there is no such water made as in

Seville.

They have daily curiosities brought from Italy and the Indies to this

Court, which, though I got my death-wound in, without partiality, I

must say, is the best established, but our own, in the Christian world

that I ever saw; and I have had the honour to live in seven. All

Ambassadors live in as great splendour as the most ambitious can

desire, and if they are just and good, with as much love as they can

deserve.

In the Palace none serve the King and Queen but the chiefest of the

nobility and ancientest families; no, not in the meanest offices.

The nation is most superstitiously devout in the Roman Catholic

religion; true in trust committed to them to a miracle, withstanding

all temptations to the contrary, and it hath been tried, particularly

about Cadiz and St. Lucar, that for eight or ten pieces-of-eight, poor

men will undertake stealing for the merchants their silver aboard when

their shipping come in, which sometimes by the watch for that purpose

are taken; and after their examination and refusal to declare whose

the silver is, or who employed them to steal, they are oftentimes

racked, which they will suffer with all the patience imaginable; and

notwithstanding their officers, as they execute their punishment,

mingle great promises of reward if they will confess, yet it was never

known that any ever confessed; and yet these men are not worth ten

pounds in the world.

They are civil to all as their qualities require, with the highest

respect, so that I have seen a grandee and a duke stop their horse

when an ordinary woman passeth over a kennel, because he would not

spoil her clothes; and put off his hat to the meanest woman that makes

a reverence, though it be their footman's wife. They meddle with no

neighbour's fortune or person, but their own families; and they are

punctual in visits, men to men, and women to women. They visit not

together, except their greatest ministers of state, so public

ministers' wives from princes. If they have animosities concerning

place, they will by discretion avoid ever meeting in a third place,

and yet converse in each other's houses, all the days of their lives,

with satisfaction on both sides. They are generally pleasant and

facetious company; but in this their women exceed, who seldom laugh,

and never loud; but the most witty in repartees, and stories, and

notions in the world. They sing, but not well, their way being between

Italian and Spanish; they play on all kinds of instruments likewise,

and dance with castanuelas very well. They work but little, but very

well, especially in monasteries. They all paint white and red, from

the Queen to the cobbler's wife, old and young, widows excepted, who

never go out of close mourning, nor wear gloves, nor show their hair

after their husband's death, and seldom marry. They are the finest-

shaped women in the world, not tall, their hair and teeth are most

delicate; they seldom have many children; there are none love

cleanliness in diet, clothes, and houses more than they do. They dress

up their oratories very fine with their own work and flowers.

They have a seed which they sow in the latter end of March, like our

sweet basil; but it grows up in their pots, which are often of China,

large, for their windows, so delicately, that it is all the summer as

round as a ball and as large as the circumference of the pot, of a

most pleasant green, and very good scent.

They delight much in the feasts of bulls and stage plays, and take

great pleasure to see their little children act before them in their

own houses, which they will do to perfection; but the children of the

greatest are kept at great distance from conversing with their

relations and friends, never eating with their parents but at their

birth. [Footnote: i.e., on their birth-days.] They are carried into an

apartment with a priest, who says daily the office of their church; a

governess, nurse, and under-servants, who have their allowance

according to the custom of great men's houses, so many pounds of

flesh, fruit, bread, and the like, with such a quantity of drink, and

so much a year in money. Until their daughters marry, they never stir

so much as down stairs, nor marry for any consideration under their

own quality, which to prevent, if their fortunes will not procure

husbands, they make them nuns. They are very magnificent in houses,

furniture, pictures of the best, jewels, plate, and clothes; most

noble in presents, entertainments, and in their equipage; and when

they visit, it is with great state and attendance. When they travel,

they are the most jolly persons in the world, dealing their provisions

of all sorts to every person they meet when they are eating.

One thing I had like to have forgotten to tell you. In the palace

there never lies but one person in the King's apartment, who is a

nobleman, to wait the King's commands; the rest are lodged in

apartments at further distance, which makes the King's side most

pleasant, because it is most airy and sweet. The King and Queen eat

together twice a week in public with their children, the rest

privately, and asunder. They eat often, with flesh to their breakfast,

which is generally, to persons of quality, a partridge and bacon, or

capon, or some such thing, ever roasted, much chocolate, and

sweetmeats, and new-laid eggs, drinking water either cold with snow,

or lemonade, or some such thing. Their women seldom drink wine, their

maids never; they all love the feasts of bulls, and strive to appear

gloriously fine when they see them.

Upon February the 11th, the Emperor's Ambassador's lady visited me.

Upon Thursday the 19th of February, went from us to England, Mr.

Charles Bertie, Mr. Francis Newport, Sir Andrew King, Sir Edmund

Turner, Mr. Francis Godolphin, Mr. Wycherley, Mr. Hatton, and Mr.

Smith, with all their servants. This day likewise we received letters

of the arrival of Mr. Price from Elvas, a gentleman of my husband's,

who had been sent by him on the 28th of January last past to the King

of Portugal, upon business of state.

Upon the 2nd of March, we went to see a country house of the Marquesa

de Liche, who presented me with a dog and bitch, perfect greyhounds,

and I could put each of them in my pocket.

On Thursday the 5th, I returned the visit of the Emperor's

Ambassador's lady. March the 8th, we went to see a house of Don Juan

de Congro, at Chamartin.

On Wednesday the 19th, we went to take the air, and dined at

Vicalvaro. Mr. Price came from Lisbon this day to Madrid.

Upon the 20th of March 1665, stilo novo, upon desire of the Duchess de

Medina de las Torres, who was then sick, and had long kept her bed, I

visited her Excellency, taking all my children with me. After I had

been there a little while, passing those compliments, her Excellency

told me that her Catholic Majesty had commanded her to assure me that

her Majesty had a very high esteem for me, not only as I was the wife

of a great King's Ambassador, for whom her Majesty had much respect,

but for my person, and the delight her Majesty took in my

conversation, assuring me from her Majesty that, upon all occasions, I

should find her most cheerfully willing to do me all possible kindness

in her Court; and for a token thereof, her Majesty had herewith sent

me a jewel of diamonds, that cost the Queen eight thousand five

hundred and fifty ducats, plate, [Footnote: See note, p. 179.] which

is about two thousand pounds sterling; which then her Excellency did

deliver to me, saying she thought herself much honoured, and much

contented, that her Majesty had employed her in a business in which

she took so much delight.

I desired her Excellency to lay me at the feet of her Majesty, and to

tell her Majesty that I esteemed the honour according as I ought, of

whose bounty and graces I and mine had abundantly received ever since

our coming into this kingdom. That the ribbon, wherewith the jewel was

tied, coming from her Majesty, was a favour of which I should have

bragged all the days of my life, though I could never have deserved

it; much more did I esteem so rich a jewel her Majesty was pleased to

send me; but, above all, her Majesty's gracious acceptance of my

service, and her Majesty's promise of her grace and favour to me, in

which I desired I might live, giving her Excellency many thanks for

the kindness on her part therein, believing that her Excellency had,

upon all occasions, made my best actions seem double, and winked at my

imperfections, but that which I did certainly know, and desired her

Excellency to believe, was, that I was her Excellency's most humble

servant.

On Tuesday the 24th of March, the Marquesa de Liche visited me, who

had not made a visit before in seven years. On Thursday the 26th, I

returned the visit to her Excellency the Marquesa, who entertained me

with a very fine banquet, and gave to my youngest girl, Betty, a

little basket of silver plate, very richly wrought.

On Thursday the 8th of April, being his Catholic Majesty's birthday, I

went to give the Empress and her Catholic Majesty the parabien

[Footnote: Congratulation. ] thereof, and likewise my thanks to her

Majesty for the many honours she had done me, and particularly for

that of the jewel.

Upon the 5th of April here appeared a new blazing star, rising in the

east about two o'clock in the morning, rising every day a quarter of

an hour later than the former, so that it appeared to our view but

about three weeks, because the daylight obscured.

Thursday the 23rd of April, we dined at a pleasure-house of the

King's, three leagues from Madrid, called the Torre del Prado. Monday,

26th of April, we went to see a garden-house of the Marquis de Liche,

which had been the Marquis of Fuentes'. The house was finely adorned

with curious pictures painted on the wall, with a very fine and large

garden thereunto belonging, in which on many days following we dined.

On Saturday the 3rd of May we heard, by letters from my father, the

sad news of the death of my good brother-in-law, my Lord Fanshawe;

and, at the same time, of his son's being happily married to one of

the daughters and heirs of Sir John Evelyn, of Wiltshire, and widow of

Sir John Wray, of Lincolnshire.

May the 28/18th, we went to see the feast of bulls, in a balcony made

at the end of a street that looked in even with the row of houses. On

the King's right hand, just below the Councils, which is over against

all other Ambassadors, there sat the Pope's Nuncio, and the rest of

the Ambassadors below him; but we not owning the Pope's priority, your

father was placed by himself.

June the 20th, came to this Court by an express, the news of the total

rout of the King of Spain's army, commanded by the Marquis of

Caracena, by the Portuguese.[Footnote: At Montesclaros, where the

Portuguese were commanded by the Marquis de Marialva.]

Upon the 6th of July, went to the feast of bulls again.

Upon the 7th, anno 1665, came to my husband the happy news of our

victory against the Dutch, fought upon the 13th of June, stilo novo.

August the 6th, at eleven o'clock in the morning, was born my son,

Richard Fanshawe, God be praised! and christened at four of the

o'clock that afternoon by our Chaplain, Mr. Bagshaw: his godfathers my

cousin Fanshawe, Chief Secretary, and Mr. Cooper, Gentleman of the

Horse: his godmother, Mrs. Kestian, one of my gentlewomen. The same

day the Duke of Medina and his Duchess sent to give us joy. Upon the

7th the Duke came in person to give us joy, with all his best jewels

on, as the custom of Spain is, to show respect.

Upon Thursday the 10th of August, the Queen sent her Majesty's Mayor-

domo, the Marquis of Aytona, to visit me from her Majesty, and to give

me joy. The next day her Majesty's Camarera Mayor and the Princess

Alva gave me joy, as did likewise most of the others of the greatest

ladies at court.

'Oh, ever living God, through Jesus Christ, receive the humble thanks

of thy servant for thy great mercy to us in our son, whom I humbly

desire thee, O Jesus, to protect; and to make him an instrument of thy

glory. Give him thy Holy Spirit, O God, to be with him all the days of

his life; direct him through the narrow paths of righteousness, in

faith, patience, charity, temperance, chastity, and a love and liking

of thy blessed will, in all the various accidents of this life: this

with what outward blessings thou, O Heavenly Father, knowest needful

for him, I beg of thee, not remembering his sins nor the sins of us

his parents, nor of our forefathers, but thy tender mercy, which thou

hast promised shall be all over thy works, and for the blessed merits

of our only Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ; to whom with thee and the

blessed Spirit be all honour and glory, as it was in the beginning, is

now, and ever shall be. Amen.'

On Thursday the 17th of September, died Philip the Fourth of Spain

having been sick but four days, of a flux and fever. The day before

his death he made his will, and left the government of the King and

kingdom in the hands of his Queen, Donna Ana of Austria; and to assist

her Majesty, he recommended for her council therein, the President of

Castile, Conde de Castilla, the Cardinal of Toledo, the Inquisitor

General, the Marquis of Aytona, the Vice-Chancellor of Aragon, and the

Conde de Penaranda. He declared for his successor, Charles Second, who

now reigns; and in case that he should die without issue, the Emperor,

if he marries the Infanta, now called the Empress, to whom he is

affianced; but if not, the Infanta before himself; after the Emperor,

the Duke of Savoy; the Queen of France to inherit next to the Infanta,

in case she be a widow, and all her children successively by any other

husband; but neither she can inherit nor any child of France.

The body of Philip the Fourth lay exposed from the 18th of September

till Saturday night the 19th, in a great room in his palace at Madrid,

where he died; in which room they used to act plays. The room was hung

with fourteen pieces of the King's best hangings, and over them rich

pictures round about, all of one size, placed close together. At the

upper end of the room was raised a throne of three steps, upon which

there was placed a bedstead, boarded at the bottom, and raised at the

head: the throne was covered with a rich Persia carpet; the bottom of

the bedstead was of silver, the valance and head-cloth, for there were

no curtains, were cloth of gold, wrought in flowers with crimson silk.

Over the bedstead was placed a cloth of state, of the same with the

valance and head-cloth of the bedstead; upon which stood a silver-gilt

coffin, raised about a foot or more higher at the head than at the

feet, in which was laid a pillow, and in the coffin lay Philip the

Fourth, with his head on the pillow, upon it a white beaver hat, his

head combed, his beard trimmed, his face and hands painted. He was

clothed in a musk colour silk suit, embroidered with gold, a golilla

(or ruff) about his neck, cuffs on his hands, which were clasped on

his breast, holding a globe and a cross on it therein; his cloak was

of the same, with his sword by his side; stockings, garters, and shoe-

strings of the same, and a pair of white shoes on his feet. In the

room were erected six altars for the time, upon which stood six

candlesticks, with six wax candles lighted, and in the middle of each

altar a crucifix; the forepart of each altar was covered with black

velvet, embroidered with silver. Before the throne a rail went across

from one side of the room to the other. At the two lower corners of

the throne, at each side, stood a nobleman, the one holding an

imperial crown, the other the sceptre; and on each side of the throne

six high candlesticks with six tapers in them. The doors of that room

were kept by the Mayor-domo of the King and Queen then in waiting, and

the outward by the Italian guard.

On the Saturday night, he was carried upon a bier, hung betwixt two

mules, upon which the coffin with the King's body was laid, covered

with a covering of cloth of gold, and at every corner of the bier was

placed a high crystal lanthorn with lighted tapers in it. He was

attended by some grandees, who rode next after him, and other noblemen

in coaches, with between two and three hundred on horseback, of whom a

great part carried tapers lighted in their hands: this was the

company, besides footmen. When the King's body came to the Convent of

the Escurial, the friars of that convent stood at the gate, and there,

according to the institution of the place, performed the ceremonies as

follow. The priors asked the grandees, who carried the King on their

shoulders, for none other must touch him, 'Who is in that coffin, and

what do they there demand?' Upon which the Sumiller de Corps,

[Footnote: Properly, the Groom of the Stole; "a cuyo cargo esta la

asistencia al Rey en su retrete."--Dic. de la Acad.] who is the Duke

de Medina de las Torres, answered, 'It is the body of Philip the

Fourth of Spain, whom we here bring for you to lay in his own tomb.'

Upon which the Duke delivered the Queen's letter, as Regent of the

kingdom, to testify that it was her Majesty's command that the King's

body should be there buried. Then the Prior read the letter, and

accompanied the body before the high altar, where it was for some time

placed, till they had performed the usual ceremonies for that time

appropriated. After which the grandees took up the corpse again, and

carried it down into the Pantheon, into which as soon as they were

entered, the Prior demanded of the Duke the covering of the King's

body as his fee.

Then demanded he the keys, upon which the Duke delivered him his, as

Sumiller de Corps, and then the Prior's own sent him by the Queen, and

the Mayor-domo then in waiting delivered him his. The Prior having

received these three keys, demanded franca [Footnote: i.e., puerta

franca; admittance.] of the Duke and Mayor-domo, that in that coffin

was the body of Philip the Fourth; and when they had done, they there

left the body with the Prior, who after the body's lying some time in

the place where the infants are buried, placed it in his own tomb.

My husband with all his family and coaches were put into mourning for

Philip the Fourth of Spain.

October the 4th following, I waited upon the Queen to give her Majesty

pesame [Footnote: Compliments of condolence.] of the King's death, who

received me with great grace and favour, as likewise did the King and

the Empress, who were both present.

On the 8th of October my husband and I, with all our family and son,

being the first time he went out of doors, went to the Placa Mayor, to

hear and see King Charles the Second proclaimed by the Duke de Medina

de las Torres, who was very richly apparelled in a silk suit,

embroidered with silver and gold, set with diamond buttons: he was

accompanied by most of the nobles in the town on horseback, as he

himself was. In his right hand he carried the King's royal standard,

and by his left side rode the Mayor of the town. The Heralds that rode

before went first upon the scaffold, which was there made for that

purpose before the King's balcony, where he was wont to see the juego

de toros. The scaffold was covered with carpets. On each side of the

Duke stood the Heralds, and on his left hand stood the Mayor, and by

the Heralds two Notaries. The King was proclaimed in five places; at

the Court above named, at the Descalcas Reale, at the Town House, at

the Gate of Guadajara, and at the Palace.

November the 9th, I went to give the Queen the parabien of the King's

birth-day, who, the 6th of this month, completed four years of age.

Her Majesty received me with great grace and favour, causing the King

to come in and receive of me the parabien of his anos likewise.

The 14th of this month I went to wait on the Camerara Mayor and the

Marquis de los Velez, the King's Aya, [Footnote: Governor or tutor.]

from both of whom I received great kindnesses.

December the 17th, 1665, my husband, upon the part of our King his

master, and the Duke de Medina de las Torres, on the part of his

Catholic Majesty, did conclude and signed together the peace between

England and Spain, and the articles for the adjustment between Spain

and Portugal, which articles were cavilled at by the Lord Chancellor

Clarendon and his party, that they might have an opportunity to send

the Earl of Sandwich out of the way from the Parliament, which then

sat, and who, as he and his friends feared, would be severely punished

for his cowardice in the Dutch fight. He neither understood the

customs of the Court, nor the language, nor indeed any thing but a

vicious life; and thus was he shuffled into your father's employment

to reap the benefit of his five years' negotiation of the peace

between England, Spain, and Portugal: and after above thirty years

studying state affairs, and many of them in the Spanish Court: so much

are Ambassadors slaves to the public ministers at home, who often,

through envy or ignorance, ruin them!

December the 23rd, I went to give the Queen the parabien of her anos,

whereof she had completed thirty-one. I likewise gave joy to the

Empress and the King, who were both then present.

The 6th of January, 1666, twelfth-day, stilo novo, my husband sent Mr.

John Price, one of his secretaries, to Lisbon, to advertise that King,

by the Conde de Castel Melhor, of his intended journey the week

following. On the 14th of this present January, the Duke of Medina de

las Torres wrote a letter to my husband, by the command of her

Catholic Majesty, which said, that for the great kindness and pains he

had and did take for the accommodating a peace between England and

Spain, and procuring a truce for thirty years between the crowns of

Spain and Portugal, that, on the day of the ratification thereof, her

Majesty did give him [Footnote: These gratifications were never paid,

because my Lord Sandwich was sent to receive what advantage he could

make. But the body of the peace being concluded before by my husband,

he received very small advantage thereby; but had my husband lived, he

would, through their justice and kindness to him, for his great wisdom

and indefatigable pains in procuring a triple peace between the three

crowns of England, Spain, and Portugal, have received a sum.] an

hundred thousand pieces-of-eight, and likewise for a further

expression of her Majesty's kindness, to me fifty thousand pieces-of-

eight.

The 16th of January, 1666, being twelfth-day, English account, my

husband began his journey from Madrid to Portugal. The day before he

went, her Catholic Majesty sent the Marquis Aytona to offer a set of

her Majesty's machos to carry his litter, and another set for his

coach, but my husband refused both, with many humble thanks to her

Majesty for so great grace and honour done him, which he refused upon

no other score but the consideration of the length of the journey, and

the badness of the way, which the time of the year caused, which would

expose the beasts to that hazard, as he could not satisfy himself to

put them in; and although my husband was next day pressed again to

receive this favour, yet he refused it with much respect to her

Majesty, for the forenamed reasons. Likewise the Duke de Medina de las

Torres sent two sets of very brave machos to convey my husband to

Portugal, which he refused with many thanks to his Excellency, upon

the same account he had done those formerly to her Majesty. My husband

carried none of his own horses or mules, but hired all he used for

himself or his retinue. He went in his own litter, and carried one of

his own coaches with him, and five sumpters, covered with his own

sumpter cloths. His retinue were:--Mr. Fanshawe, Chief Secretary; Mr.

Price, gone before to Lisbon; Mr. Cooper, Gentleman of the Horse; Mr.

Bagshawe, Chaplain; Mr. Ashburnham, Mr. Parry, Mr. Creighton, Mr.

Eyres, Steward; Mr. Weeden, Mr. Jemmet, Mr. Bumstead, Pages; Mr.

Hellow, Butler; William, a Cook; Francis, a Groom; Frances, a

Laundress, and four Spanish footmen.

To every five mules went a moco, and a sobrestante over all. Her

Majesty sent an alguazil of the court with my husband through Spain,

to provide him lodgings, and to assist him in all other occasions

belonging to his journey. I accompanied my husband a league out of

town in our coach of state; then he entered his litter, and so began

his journey.

Within an hour after I was returned to my house, the Duke and Duchess

de Medina de las Torres sent each of them a gentleman with very kind

messages to me on the part of their Excellencies.

The 17th, came the Master of the Ceremonies to see me, and offered the

services of this Court, with high compliments and much kindness; the

18th, came the Duke of Aveyro to see me, and afterwards the Marquis of

Trucifal; the 19th, came to see me the Baron of L'Isola's lady; the

20th of January, I received a letter from my husband at Toledo; the

26th, the Marquis de Liche came to visit me; the 28th, the Duchess de

Aveyro sent a gentleman to me, to excuse her not coming to see me, by

reason of her being with child, and not having stirred out of her

chamber from the time she had conceived with child; the 29th I

received a letter from my husband, from Frexenal.

The 2nd of February, the Duke de Medina de las Torres sent to me Don

Nicolas Navas, with letters from her Catholic Majesty herself to my

husband, and putting up the packet here before me, inclosed my letters

therein, I giving a cover, and sealing it with my seal, and a passport

to the post that carried it, to come and go: all which was required of

me by his Excellency, who was pleased to continue this for me every

post that he sent during my husband's stay in Portugal.

The 12th of February, the Duchess of Albuquerque sent a gentleman to

excuse her not visiting me, her Excellency being sick of a fever. This

night likewise the Duke sent a second post to my husband as before.

The 13th, Father Patricio came to visit me, from the Duke; the 17th

died the Queen-mother of Portugal; the 20th, the Duke despatched a

third post to my husband. The 23rd, the Duke and his Duchess came to

visit me in very great state, having six coaches and two sedans to

wait on them, and above a hundred gentlemen and attendants. The 27th,

one of the three posts returned from my husband; another on the 2nd of

March; the third on the 10th.

On the 8th of March, 1666, stilo novo, my husband returned from Lisbon

to this Court, with all his family in very good health, God be

praised! I went with my children two leagues out of town, to Ricon, to

meet him. He brought in his company Sir Robert Southwell, an enviado

from our King to Portugal and Spain, if need so required. My husband

entertained him at his house three weeks and odd days.

Upon the 26th of March, came a letter from Coruna, advertising this

Court of the Earl of Sandwich's arrival, as Extraordinary Ambassador

from our King to his Catholic Majesty.

Sunday the 12th of April, I took my leave of the Queen of Spain, and

Empress, and the King, and the next day of the Camarera Mayor, and of

the King's Aya.

The 13th of April, returned from hence a gentleman named Mr. Weeden,

who came hither on the 6th of the same month, bringing letters to this

Court and my husband from his Lord, the Earl of Sandwich, and likewise

a list of the Extraordinary Ambassador's family, which was as

follows:--

Mr. Sidney Montague, his son; Sir Charles Herbert, Mr. Steward, Mr.

Godolphin, Secretary to the Embassy; Mr. Worden, Mr. Bedles, Mr.

Cotterrel, Mr. Bridges, Mr. Clarke, Mr. Melham, Mr. Stuard, Mr. Linch,

Mr. Boddie, Interpreter; Mr. Parker, Mr. Shere, Mr. Moore, Chaplain;

The Steward; Captain Ferrer, Gentleman of the Horse; Mr. William

Ferrer, Mr. Gateley, Clergyman; Mr. Gibbs, Mr. Boreman, Clerk of the

Kitchen; Mr. Lond, Mr. Veleam, Mr. Mallard; Mr. Richard Jarald, Mr.

Joseph Chaumond, Under Secretaries; Francis Paston, Confectioner;

Henry Pyman, Butler; Gentleman, Mr. Cooke; Balfoure and Attenchip, two

Cooks; Allion Thompson, Trumpeter; William Killegrew, Thomas Rice,

William Rich, Francis Warrington, James Ashton, Mr. Place, John

Beverley, Briggs, Richard Cooper, Mr. Kerke, Mr. Churchill, Mr.

Jeffereys, Mr. Crown, Pages, ten; Mr. Nicholas Neto, Mr. Righton,

Edward Hooton, Richard Russel, Andrew Daniel; Peacock, Dennis,

Footmen; Thomas Gibson, Thomas Williams, Josias Brown, Caspar, el

negro; Nathaniel Bennet; the Nurse, her Husband, two Maids, Nicholas

Bennet, Henry Mitchell, and John Goods.

On the 14th I took my leave of the Duchess de Medina de las Torres,

the Marquesa de Trucifal, and the Condessa de Torres Vedras. On the

15th, I took my leave of the Duchess de Aveiro, who gave my daughter

Katharine a jewel of twenty-seven emeralds; and to my daughter

Margaret a crystal box set in gold, and a large silver box of amber

pastilles to burn; and to my daughter Ann a crystal bottle, with a

gold neck, full of amber water, and a silver box of filagree; and to

my daughter Betty a little trunk of silver wire, made in the Indies.

This day I likewise visited the Marquesa de Liche, and daughter-in-law

of the Almirante of Castilla, the Baron de L'Isola's lady, and Don

Diego Tinoco's lady, who had all visited me.

On the 16th, I took my leave of the Duchess of Albuquerque, and her

Excellency Donna Maria de la Cueva. The Duchess showed me a large room

full of gilt and silver plate, which they said cost a hundred thousand

pistoles, though to my eye it did not seem of half the worth. It was

made for the Duke's journey into Germany, being the principal person

entrusted to dispose of her Imperial Majesty's family and money for a

voyage to that Court; and afterwards he and his lady are to return to

Sicily, and there to remain Viceroy. The same day I took my leave of

the German Ambassador's lady. Easterday being the 25th of April, 1666,

the Infanta Donna Maria was married to the Emperor by proxy, viz., the

Duke de Medina de las Torres.