CHAPTER XIV.

MANY GOOD METHODS.

There is no animal roaming the woods so hard to catch in a steel trap

as the fox, says a writer in the _Orange Judd Farmer_. Yet when one

understands his nature he is easily taken despite his cunning. The

following method I have employed successfully: First take four good

steel traps and cover them with fresh blood at a slaughter house.

Take a dead hen (one that has died a natural death will do if there

is no odor), and run a wire up in her head and down in her body; also

wires through her feet and legs. Select a place where foxes run near

a low bush or small tree. On a branch of this, about three feet from

the ground, fasten your hen solidly with the wires in her feet. By

means of wire in her neck, bend it so she will look as if she were on

a roost. Be very particular on this point. Set your trap a little

below the surface of the soil, so that the tops are level. Now cover

up with leaves and grass so that there is no difference in appearance

from the surrounding ground. Be sure the chains are well staked. Mr.

Fox comes up and sees the hen. He squats down on his stomach. He will

lie there for five minutes watching the hen. Then he makes a spring

for her neck, and gets it, but the traps get him and the boy gets the

fox if he is cute enough.

* * *

Well here is how I caught my first fox, says C. F. Hotchkiss, of

Wisconsin. It was in the winter of 1887 and 1888. I was working for a

farmer here in Shawano Co., had to drive the stock to the river to

water all winter. I noticed fox tracks on the ice so I bought a

double spring Newhouse. Gave 60 cents for it, took some chaff from the

hay in the cow stable for a bed and set the trap on the river bank

under a large hemlock to protect it from storms, covered trap with

chaff and strewed pieces of chicken and feathers on the bed. In four

days I had two foxes, then some one stole my trap and I did not try

any more then. Last winter I was working for the same farmer again.

He lost two sheep. We drew the carcasses out in the woods, set four

traps at one sheep and six at the other. In seven weeks we had 14

foxes and we lost no time from other work. We pulled wool from the

sheep to cover the traps with. I do not think it best to spit near a

fox trap, especially tobacco spit. There may be some foxes that do

not care for it, but I know they are not all built that way.

One of my methods of trapping Reynard was as follows: First,

thoroughly besmear the trap with droppings from cattle, using no

other preparation, neither boiling or smoking, as some recommend to

prevent their fear of human scent, then my favorite sets being in the

path of some old timber or wood road or cattle path in some unusual

pasture. After selecting the place best suited, according to my best

judgment, take a knife to cut out a hole corresponding to size of

trap, remove carefully all loose earth. I usually carried a small

basket for the reception of everything taken up this way. Set the

trap carefully, covering loosely with some coarse material and

topping the whole with material to correspond with the surrounding

surface of paths, and lastly laying a small twig across just at one

side of where the trap is set, as a fox will always step over any

small obstruction, and by placing the twig in this manner he would

step over into the trap.

[Illustration: THIRTY SILVER FOX SKINS WORTH $5000.]

In the section of country which I am now writing, that just east of

the White Mountains in New Hampshire, there were innumerable such

roads and paths, so that I had all the territory I desired for the

purpose. Have caught many a sly chap in this manner. Had a good

grapple at end of chain and never fastened a trap but let them make a

few jumps when they would nearly always get caught up, yet on a few

occasions have had to put up a pretty stiff hunt before locating

them. For instance, there might be a snow storm, if late in the

season, or a heavy rain. In this case there might not be any signs to

go by, and I would have to go on a blind hunt and cover considerable

ground before I could skin my fox.

* * *

I had my traps all set one fall and everything was coming my way,

until one morning I found that I was dealing with a fox that knew as

much about trapping as I did. I had my trap set in a spring and every

time he wanted to steal bait he could manage it without getting into

the trap. I let the trap set the same way and kept it baited but

meanwhile I was thinking of a plan to capture him. In fixing the

spring I made a dam out of dirt, placing a few small flat stones on

top of it. Now I made up my mind that as the dam was the nearest

point to the bait that he must be stealing it from that place. Now I

took the trap out of the spring and put in a stone covered with a

tuft of grass to resemble the trap and setting the trap itself in the

dam, covering with dirt and laying a little flat stone on the pan. I

had made up my mind that when he stepped on the dam he would step on

the small stones that I had laid on top to keep the dirt from washing

away. While stepping on the dam to reach for the bait he stepped on

the small stone on the pan and was held fast by a No. 2 1/2 Blake &

Lamb trap, just as I had calculated on.

* * *

One way of trapping fox is setting under water, especially in slow

moving water, is most effectual in killing the trap odor, says a

Michigan trapper. The metallic smell will not rise through water, but

will be absorbed and carried away by it. As much as a fortnight

before setting take a hoe and dig a shallow pool in a swamp where

foxes are known to cross. Dig it six or seven feet across in a mucky

ooze and leave a drain way or outlet open so that in event of rain

storms, water will not rise and stand too deep in the pool. The pool

should bear as few evidences as possible of having been made by man.

In the course of a fortnight after the scent of the trapper has faded

away and leaves have fallen, the trap is smeared with tallow and the

chain is fastened to long narrow stone, approaching so as to make and

leave as few tracks as possible. The trap along with the stone and

chain is set in the bottom of the pool, not in the center, but so

near one side that the trap will be from 12 to 14 inches from the low

bank. A little tuft of grass as large as a soda biscuit is placed

directly over the trap resting on it, so the top of the tuft will

show a little above the water, looking as though it grew there. About

a foot beyond it further out in the water another tuft a little

larger and thicker, is placed so it will show distinctly above the

water, and on it place the bait. A fox crossing the swamp on a chilly

day scenting the bait will approach the pool. To avoid wading in the

cold muddy water he will probably step on the nearest tuft. That is

the one on the trap in which he will be caught by the foreleg.

* * *

I will tell you what I know about the fox, says a Canadian trapper.

He is the slyest animal we have to deal with here. I think the best

way is to use several different ways to trap foxes, and your chances

will be doubled in taking them.

Take a horse or beef head and put it out in the woods and leave it

there for about a week. Then if the foxes have been at it, set your

traps and cover with leaves or dead pine needles. When you are

leaving take a brush and brush some snow over your traps to about

half cover the leaves. Leave no foot marks around and you will be

pretty sure to get your fox.

Another good way is to take tainted beef or pig kidneys and put them

at the back of a V, made by two logs falling across each other. I

took one this way before the snow came, but he got away with my trap.

I have read and heard a lot about human scent and animals being

afraid of it. I have seen enough to be sure that fox are not afraid

of either human scent or steel traps, if the dirt is not disturbed

around the trap.

* * *

[Illustration: CALIFORNIA TRAPPER VISITING TRAPS.]

When snow is plentiful so that sly Reynard may be tracked, then

search out his haunts and find where he sleeps in the day time, says

a Canadian hunter. They seldom go in holes in the winter, and in the

bright sunny days are very sleepy. In tracking you will see marks

where they have been lying, generally in some elevated position close

to their haunts, where they may be caught napping as they often are

caught. The snow should be soft so as to make the least noise

possible, but it is astonishing the amount of noise you can make and

still not disturb them, providing you have been thoughtful enough to

keep the wind in your favor, as they are very quick to smell a

person, so in consequence you should always face the wind and go easy

in your search. The snow shoes are a great help when the snow is

deep, as it is then that the fox is easiest gotten as they will not

go far in the deep snow. Try it boys and be surprised at your

success.

* * *

I will try and explain to you my method of catching fox alive, writes

Howard Hurst, of Pennsylvania. Take a common box trap, put a wire

partition about 4 inches from back end of trap. On the back end of

trap put a wire door that you can open and shut. Take the trap to

some good den, take a small live chicken and put in the back part of

trap. The noise of the chicken will attract the foxes' attention and

he will enter the trap door. I saw four caught this way last spring

by a boy 9 years old.

* * *

I will mention how you can get a fox without bait, says Jarvis Green,

of Maine. Look up an old path or wood road where you see that they

have traveled, and notice a mound or rise of ground; now the foxes

always stop to urinate on all such places. When you see the wind and

atmosphere indicates a fall of snow, go and set your trap, smear with

balsam of fir, cedar, hemlock or spruce, set your trap on center of

mound and on one side stick up a tree branch to look as if grown

there, about eight inches high, fasten trap to a clog by the middle,

cover trap lightly with some fine substance. A drop or two of scent

is sure of every one that comes along. Try this. The Blake & Lamb

trap is best. I have only one fault with the single spring and that

is the trencher is too large. On the new style if the animal steps on

the edge of trencher, result is a toe or two will be left. Be careful

in covering trap so that when it springs the jaws will shut tight.

* * *

[Illustration: PENNSYLVANIA FOX TRAPPER'S CABIN.]

When I was a boy I used to hunt foxes with dog and gun. In tracking

them I noticed that they would go to every skunk that was killed,

writes L. M. Cartwright, of Pennsylvania, near where they traveled,

and nose around, but never saw where they ate any of it, so I used

the scent successfully in catching them. I have caught many of them

in No. 1 Newhouse trap fastened to a clog; had one to pull the staple

out of a clog and carry trap as much as five miles before catching

him, and if it had not been for a fresh fall of snow would have been

out.

About as sure a way to catch fox (if you have the proper place) is to

snare him. Here they very often cross the creek on logs or trees that

have fallen across, when the creek is not frozen over. Take about

three and a half feet of wire, such as is used for baling hay, make a

snare, staple or spike the end of wire down on the side of the tree

about the center of the creek, bend wire up so the loop comes over

the center of log, make loop about seven or eight inches in diameter,

set small bush on each side, stick in log and cover just over top of

snare. If properly set will catch fox, coon and dogs (so it is best

to set where dogs do not travel).

I suppose any log up from the ground high enough would do by using

the scent from the female fox. Another way, drive a stake beside a

log, set trap about six to nine inches away, pour fish brine on stake

and see what it will do. This should be away from dogs.

My way of trapping the fox is by the old method. Take a bushel of

buckwheat chaff and where foxes travel nearly every night scatter it

about four feet around, and take a stick and pat the chaff down so it

is nice and smooth all over the bed. Then take tallow cracklings and

scatter them over the bed about a foot apart, then leave everything

natural, and as soon as a fox takes the bait place your trap (which

should be a double spring Newhouse or a No. 2 1/2 B. & L.) set it in

center of bed and cover about 3/4 or 1 inch with chaff. Put cotton

under pan so it will not hinder trap from springing. The trap should

be fastened to a clog or drag hook. I say to young trappers try my

way and you will be successful.

* * *

Do not spit or drop anything or touch anything with your bare hands,

says a Vermont trapper. Yes, I know some say animals are not afraid

of human scent. I have my ideas and know what I have to do to be

successful. If others can make a success in a different way I will

not disagree with them. You cut a stake, sharpen it at one end, cut

it about 15 inches long, about 1 inch in diameter; leave a prong

about three inches long and about three inches from top to stake down

trap. I will set this No. 2 1/2 Blake now. I ask all of you to pay

attention, as I have often made the assertion that I could set a fox

trap before 400 persons and not ten of them would make fox trappers.

Now let me set this trap and carry it set to this bank, which is a

sharp knoll about two feet high. I take my digger and cut a sod 6

inches square. Now I dig a hole back in the bank 6 or 8 inches and

about three inches across. Make the cavity large enough to set trap

about 3 inches deep, place ring over stake and drive stake in ground

under where you set the trap. Set trap so pan will be about three

inches from mouth of hole and square in front of hole. Now with

digger cover trap about 1/2 inch deep so it will be all covered

evenly. Put two pieces of bait in hole beyond trap and about three

inches from mouth, and one in further end of hole. Drop a few drops

of scent at mouth of hole and the thing is done. If you have paid

attention you will see that I have touched nothing with my hands and

never stepped out of my tracks setting trap.

* * *

The fox is, without doubt, the most cunning of all cunning animals we

trappers have to trap, says an Eastern trapper. Many times have I

been to my fox traps to find one or so turned bottom side up and no

fox. A fox will reach into a bed and take your bait with his paw, and

I have trapped them when actions said plain as words, "you can't fool

me."

I find the No. 1 1/2 Newhouse a very good trap for the fox,

especially in early fall when the ground don't freeze. A fox will

start on his nightly rounds and frequent small clearings in woods,

sandy side hills and such places, and that is the place a trapper

wants a few tanglefoot. I have trapped fox for quite a number of

years, and I never caught one by accident yet. I always have to set

for fox and fox only.

In regard to poisoning, I think that a man that uses it ought to be

shot full of holes. In regard to iron smell, I will say that fox can

smell iron, but bury your trap deep enough and you will be all right.

A good scent is as follows: Take skunk essence, white of eggs, and

let stand about one week. Use about five drops and I will warrant it

to be the best fox scent made.

* * *

We all know it's difficult to catch the fox on dry land, although it

is done, says a New England trapper. There are thousands of fox who

fall victims to this way, and I believe it a more successful method

than any in existence. I shall recommend a spring to set your trap in

because the water does not rise or fall much, like a brook. Carefully

dig out your spring in July or August, arranging it so that you will

have it ready by fall, by placing a flat stone about fifteen inches

from the stone so it will project above water about one inch; on top

of this place a sod about three inches thick if possible, and have

the edges come into the water so it will look natural. Cut your sods

that you are to fix inside the trap, and lay up to dry when you

prepare your place.

When the time is ready for setting your trap, go to the place by

walking up the outlet of the spring or brook, using the greatest

care, and not touch the brushes or anything around the trap; place

your trap very near the edge of the spring, about six or eight inches

from the sod; have the trap entirely under water, and place your sod,

cut for the purpose, on the pan, have it cover all the space inside

the trap, and be sure it is out of water enough to offer a dry

footing for the fox, and not over two inches from the shore.

Some have the shore cut out so half the trap is on apparently dry

land. Either way is all right. Place your bait on the side of the

sod, using scent and being sure that your bait or scent cannot be

reached except by the fox stepping on the pan of the trap, and you

will get your fox.

When you visit your trap do not go too near, as all these things have

their effect. I should recommend for bait cat or muskrat, a piece

half the size of an egg is all right. It should be prepared by

placing in a perfectly clean jar the number of bait you wish, and

allow to taint, putting the scent in with the bait, or dropping on

the bait after you place on sod. You must use the greatest care in

handling your bait. Do not take out or place on the bait with your

bare hands. Use a stick.

[Illustration: NEW ENGLAND TRAPPERS CATCH.]

I have been waiting for some of the fox trappers of the Red River

Valley, says a Minnesota trapper, to write and tell us how they

manage to pinch Mr. Reynard's toes. I think we have a harder place

here to trap fox than you Eastern fellows have. The country is just

as level as a board and no timber, and we are liable to have a

blizzard any hour. What makes it hard to trap is that the traps

always blow in if you haven't got them in a good place. I have quite

a trick to catch the fox, at least I have had the best luck with it.

I first find a place where an old straw pile was burned, then smear

my traps with blood and hide them good in ashes, erase all of my

tracks and drop a few spirits of anise oil all around. For bait I

generally use the entrails of a hog or beef. Last winter I caught two

without any bait; just the oil. Last winter I had good luck with dead

chickens. I always staple my traps to a clog of about twelve or

fifteen pounds weight. On this clog I nailed the chicken and I got

every fox that came around.

I only trapped one month with two traps, No. 2 Newhouse, and I got 6

fox and 1 wolf, and that was all the fox there were inside of about

three or four miles, and I didn't have time to go further because I

am a farmer and have my stock to tend.

* * *

If you know where there is a meadow with hay or straw stacked out on

it, says Austin Palin, of Indiana, and if you will go to this stack

after a little snow and there has been a fox in the field, he will be

pretty sure to have gone to the stack to nose around. I first go and

catch some fish about 6 or 8 inches long. I generally get suckers. I

now clean my traps by boiling them in weak lye, then reboil them in

evergreen boughs. I think it advisable to run beeswax over your trap,

but I have had success without the beeswax.

After you have your traps cleaned and fixed do not handle them with

your bare hands but put on a pair of gloves, take your trap and fish

and a piece of wood about 4 feet long and the thickness of your arm

and go to the stack. Now raise up the edge of the hay at the ground

and slip the fish (one will be enough) back under the hay 6 or 8

inches, then set your trap directly in front of it, covering with the

fine chaff; now fasten the trap chain to the piece of wood and slip

the stick back under the stack, working it around a little so when

the fox gets fast he can pull it out easily. Now take a stick and

straighten out the hay over the trap and scratch out all signs and

your set is complete. Make the above set when there is no snow.

* * *

We trapped foxes by baiting in beds mostly, says a Michigan trapper,

though we caught five in the following manner: A wounded deer had

fallen near two down trees which lap with tops crossed. We drew the

deer into the apex or pen, as we noticed that foxes had been visiting

the carcass. We cut notches out of these trees which were old and

moss-covered, and set traps in the places prepared, covering neatly

with moss.

Foxes are prone to walk convenient logs investigating anything that

attracts them, and rarely look for danger under foot if the trap has

been well placed and cleverly hidden. We smoked our traps and handled

them with mittens.

* * *

The red fox is the only species that abounds in this locality, says

Wm. Muchon, of Minnesota. When run by the hounds he usually keeps

half a mile ahead, regulating his speed by that of the hounds,

occasionally pausing a moment to divert himself with a mouse or to

contemplate the landscape or to listen for his pursuer.

A most spirited and exciting chase occurs when the dogs gets close

upon one in the open field. The fox relies so confidently upon his

superior speed that I imagine he half tempts the dog to the race, but

if he be a smart dog, and their course lies down hill over smooth

ground, Reynard must put his best foot forward and then sometimes

suffers the ignominy of being run over by his pursuer, who, however,

is quite unable to pick him up, owing to the speed. But uphill and in

the woods the superior nimbleness and agility of the fox tells at

once.

Carry the carcass of a pig or a fowl to a distant field in

mid-winter, and in a few nights his tracks cover the snow about it. The

inexperienced youth, misled by this seeming carelessness of Reynard,

suddenly conceives a project to enrich himself with fur, and wonders

why the idea has not occurred to him before and to others. I knew a

youthful yeoman of this kind who imagined he had found a mine of

wealth discovering on a remote side hill between two woods a dead

porker, upon which it appeared all the foxes of the neighborhood did

nightly banquet.

The clouds were burdened with snow and as the first flakes began to

eddy down he set out, trap and broom in hand, already counting over

in imagination the silver quarters he would receive for the first fox

skin. With the utmost care and with a palpitating heart he removed

enough of the trodden snow to allow the trap to sink below the

surface. The next morning at dawn he was on his way to bring his fur.

The snow had done its work effectually, and he believed had kept his

secret well.

Approaching nearer, the surface was unbroken, and doubt usurped the

place of certainty in his mind. A slight wound marked the side of the

porker, but there was no footprint near it. Looking up the hill, he

saw where Reynard had walked leisurely down toward his wanted bacon

till within a few yards when he had wheeled, and with prodigious

strides disappeared in the woods. The stream of silver quarters

suddenly set in another direction.

The successful trapper commences in the fall, or before the first

deep snow. In a field not too remote with an old axe he cuts a small

place, say ten inches by fourteen in the frozen ground, and removes

the earth to the depth of three or four inches, then fills the cavity

with dry ashes in which are placed bits of roasted cheese. Reynard is

very suspicious and gives the place a wide berth, but the cheese is

savory and the cold severe. He ventures a little closer every night

until he can reach and pick out a piece from the ashes, and finding a

fresh supply of the delectable morsels every night is soon thrown off

his guard and his suspicions lulled.

After a week of baiting in this way, the trapper carefully conceals

his trap in the bed, first smoking it thoroughly with hemlock boughs

so as to kill all smell of iron. If the weather favors, and the

proper precautions have been taken he may succeed, though the chances

are still greatly against him.

* * *

I will say that we keep four of the best fox traps in the shape of

four hounds that can be found in our part of the country, writes J.

A. McKinnon, of Canada, and as for the month of November we sold

$85.00 worth of fur, it will be easily seen that they pay for their

keep. The fox hound, like the coon dog, must be a good one, properly

bred and trained for the purpose, and they are never first class

until they are two or three years old, although I have killed foxes

ahead of dogs that were only nine months old, but these turned out to

be exceptionally good dogs, and out of a litter of six or eight

puppies half of the number may be worthless for what I call a good

fox hound is one that will hunt for his fox alone, and that will run

all day if necessary.

I went out on the first snow and in one day captured three foxes, two

of which I shot, and the other ran into a hollow log; he was running

so hard I believe he would have got into the rail if there had been

no hole at all. I also find that the morning is the best time to find

a fresh track, as it is then that Reynard is up and taking his

morning walk through the old barren meadows, and partly cleared

fields, in search of mice and other small game.

In my experience I find that the females do not move around so much

in the day time as the males do, for they are shyer than the males

and are possessed of more cunningness. In our travels we always mark

any fox dens we come across, so as to pay them a friendly call after

a fresh fall of snow.

We use the Winchester repeating shot guns, and find that for long

range and quick shooting they are the best. We sometimes use our

rifles but a fox is a small mark to shot at if he is running at full

speed. Brother trappers, get a pair of good fox hounds and you will

get more foxes than with all the traps you could set in a week.

* * *

I don't think there are many men now living that have skinned many

more fox than I have, yet I can learn every year something new about

Reynard, says O. Douglass, of Michigan. But what I do want to know is

this: I see so much about water sets, and I don't understand how it

can be done only for the fun of it. I have bought for many years, and

I have as yet to see many prime water trapped fox. They are caught

too early to be prime, and I can't see where the money comes in to

pay for your trouble.

Now trappers, don't you think it is better to make some fine dry land

sets in July or August and bait them once a week until they are

prime, and you have them coming to your beds and they are not afraid

of your work? I say this to young trappers. I have been trying all

ways for sixty years and have caught them many different ways, but I

do think the water set is the poorest way of all. Dry land sets for

me every time in November and December.

I make my beds early and I use the scrap from hog's lard. I take one

skunk scent bag to each bed to draw them to the bait, and when they

come once they will call again.

I see where a buyer was called to buy 14 fox hides and only found one

prime skin. All water caught. That is my experience with water caught

fox. They have to be caught too early. It may be different in some

localities, but not here, as the water is frozen by the time fox are

prime. Try dry land sets and see if I am not right, and have more

money for your work later on.

I always set two traps to one bed, and cover with dry dirt until it

freezes. Then I use chaff. Handle all with clean gloves and be as

cunning as a fox yourself.

[Illustration: PACK OF NEW ENGLAND FOX HOUNDS.]

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