TENNESSEE TRAPPER'S METHODS.
Do you trap foxes? If you do I bet you have some favorite way, and
too, doubtless in most respects it's different from my way of
trapping them, as there seems to be almost as many methods as there
are successful trappers; nor either is the same confined to the
methods used, but to the kind of traps employed, baits, scents, etc.,
says B. P. Pickens.
The Water Set, the Sheep Path Methods, are national, and known to be
O. K., though the former requires bait attractions, and lots of other
preparations, while the latter with me has never necessarily required
baits or scents to make it a good success.
I do not confine my fox trapping to any one method long, for I am
always governed by the surroundings, and conditions, yet my traps are
set and concealed the same way, no matter for what animals I intend
to trap.
My traps set for skunk and rats are just as carefully set and
concealed as though they were set for fox and coon.
My favorite is a Newhouse Fox Trap for every purpose, as it will
hold.
My reasons for using nothing smaller than a No. 2 Fox Trap is that a
fellow does not always know if a fox will happen about his skunk
traps or a big coon about his rat traps, and since I have found Mr.
Fox and Mr. Coon a few times in the toils I make every preparation
for his reception.
I will endeavor to tell some of the things I do, which is a good way
to take a fox. I commence early in the spring, if the ground is not
ready to arrange for my fall and winter trapping, looking out for
their signs, and continue to keep my eyes open all summer and around
the pastures, in the fields, old roads, and in the woods, gullies and
washouts. I arrange to trap them in stock paths by laying a limb or
fence rail across these paths, while the use of stock all summer
renders it old, and on either side of this path obstruction is just
the place for a fox trap. I cut and wire my trap chain to the middle
of a brush, one that a fox can drag some distance away, which leaves
this same place a good risk for another catch, where if stapled to
something he could not move he would render the place unfit for the
rest of the season.
Conceal your trap by digging a hole on either side of the path
obstruction the size of the trap to be used, setting trap always
springs with path, have the hole deep enough so when the trap is well
covered with leaves, then on the leaves a layer of dirt, it will just
be level with the earth and look natural.
To use this same underground method in cold freezing weather, first
bed the trap hole good with dry leaves, or grass, over springs and
all, being sure to use dry flat leaves to lay over the pan and jaws,
then cover over all with some of the remaining dirt before mentioned.
Be sure to hide chain and handle everything with gloves.
Now brush out your tracks, step over your trap and go on.
One way of trapping foxes may be done like this. Around the pastures
and in the woods where stock make paths lay a fence rail, or its
equivalent across these paths, and the use of stock during the summer
months will render these prearranged obstructions worn and natural by
November trapping, and on either side of such an obstruction is a
splendid place to set your trap for the fox to step in, writes L. M.
Pickens.
Paths, places under fences, little washouts, and old roads not much
used are generally his favorite travels. See after his tracks in the
dust, mud, or snow; notice how he steps over one of these
obstructions that you arranged early in the summer, and other places,
studying him, then set your trap this way, using every precaution to
not change any of the surroundings.
[Illustration: TENNESSEE TRAPPERS AND TRAPS.]
Carry with you a little hard wood stick, ready sharpened, with which
to dig a hole on either side of this obstruction that has been lying
over the stock path just the size of your trap, and deep enough so
your trap pan and jaws will be a little below the level of the
surface. Now cover over springs good and all around the outside of
jaws with some of this dirt you dug up; now you have the trap
concealed all but its pan and inside of jaws; finish the set by
laying some small flat leaves from jaws to pan, commencing and going
all the way around jaws; after this is done pulverize some of the
remaining dirt, and sprinkle it over these leaves, entirely covering
them. Take a small twig and level over trap, finishing the job. It
might help some to cut a part of a bird into fine pieces, dropping it
and loose feathers over this kind of a set.
To fasten the trap is some of the job. Cut a bush with a lot of limbs
to it, and wire your trap to the middle of same securely, but do not
have the brush drag so heavily that he cannot run off with it; it is
intended for him to go immediately after he is caught, for these
reasons, he will soon hang up some distance away, and thus fastened,
he is not stationed at this good place where another may be caught,
besides his chances of pulling out of the trap is less than it is if
he was stapled to something he could not move. The brush is a give
and take game, see?
Be sure to cover chain of trap good, and have everything look as
natural when you leave us when you came to set trap. Use No. 2
Newhouse, handling it and everything with gloves; always stand In one
place; leave no paper or whittlings on the premises. I use this
method just outlined. Try it boys.