Having thanked the librarian for a sight of these volumes--of which there

is an impression in an octavo and cheap form, "for the use of youth"--I

begged that I might have a sight of the _Incunabula Typographica_ of which

I had heard a high character. He smiled, and said that a few minutes would

suffice to undeceive me in this particular. Whereupon he placed before

me ... such a set of genuine, unsoiled, uncropt, _undoctored_, ponderous

folio tomes ... as verily caused my eyes to sparkle, and my heart to leap!

They were, upon the whole---and for their number--_such_ copies as I had

never before seen. You have here a very accurate account of them--taken,

with the said copies "oculis subjectis." _St. Austin de Civitate Dei_,

1467. _Folio_. A very large and sound copy, in the original binding of

wood; but not free from a good deal of ms. annotation. _Mentelin's German

Bible_; somewhat cropt, and in its second binding, but sound and perfect.

_Supposed first German Bible_: a large and fine copy, in its first binding

of wood. _Apuleius_, 1469. Folio. The largest and finest copy which, I

think, I ever beheld--with the exception of some slight worm holes at the

end. _Livius_, 1470. Folio. 2 vols. _Printed by V. de Spira._ In the

original binding. When I say that this copy appears to be full as fine as

that in the collection of Mr. Grenville, I bestow upon it the highest

possible commendation. _Plutarchi Vit. Parall._ 2 vol. Folio. In the well

known peculiarly shaped letter R. This copy, in one magnificent folio

volume, is the largest and finest I ever saw: but--eheu! a few leaves are

wanting at the end. _Polybius. Lat._ 1473. Folio. The printers are

Sweynheym and Pannartz. A large, fine copy; in the original binding of

wood: but four leaves at the end, with a strong foxy tint at top, are

worm-eaten in the middle.

Let me pursue this _amusing_ strain; for I have rarely, within so small a

space--in any monastic library I have hitherto visited--found such a

sprinkling of classical volumes. _Plinius Senior_, 1472. Folio. Printed by

Jenson. A prodigiously fine, large copy. A ms. note, prefixed, says: "_hunc

librum comparuit Jacobus Pemperl pro viij t d. an [14]88," &c. Xenophontis

Cyropædia_. Lat. _Curante Philelpho_. With the date of the translation,

1467. A very fine copy of a well printed book. _Mammotrectus_, 1470. Folio.

Printed by Schoeffher. A fine, white, tall copy; in its original wooden

binding. _Sti. Jeronimi Epistolæ_. 1470. Folio. Printed by Sweynheym and

Pannartz. In one volume: for size and condition probably unrivalled. In its

first binding of wood. _Gratiani Decretales_. 1472. Folio. Printed by

Schoeffher. UPON VELLUM: in one enormous folio volume, and in an unrivalled

state of perfection. Perhaps, upon the whole, the finest vellum Schoeffher

in existence. It is in its original binding, but some of the leaves are

loose. _Opus Consiliorum I. de Calderi_. 1472. Idem Opus: _Anthonii de

Burtrio_. 1472. Folio. Each work printed by _Adam Rot, Metensis_: a rare

printer, but of whose performances I have now seen a good number of

specimens. These works are in one volume, and the present is a fine sound

copy. _Petri Lombardi Quat. Lib. Sentent_. Folio. This book is without name

of printer or date; but I should conjecture it to be executed in

Eggesteyn's largest gothic character, and, from a ms. memorandum at the

end, we are quite sure that the book was printed in 1471 at latest. The

memorandum is as follows: "_Iste liber est magistri Leonardi Fruman de

Hyersaw_, 1471."

Such appeared to me to be the choicer, and more to be desiderated, volumes

in the monastic library of Closterneuberg--which a visit of about a couple

of hours only enabled me to examine. I say "_desiderated_"--my good

friend--because, on returning home, I revolved within myself what might be

done with propriety towards the _possession_ of them.[156] Having thanked

the worthy librarian, and expressed the very great satisfaction afforded me

by a sight of the books in question--which had fully answered the high

character given of them--I returned to the auberge--dined with an increased

appetite in consequence of such a sight--and, picking up a "white stone,"

as a lucky omen, being at the very extent of my _Bibliographical_,

_Antiquarian_, and _Picturesque Tour_--returned to Vienna, to a late cup of

tea; well satisfied, in every respect, with this most agreeable excursion.

There now remains but one more subject to be noticed--and, then, farewell

to this city--and hie for Manheim, Paris, and Old England! That one subject

is again connected with old books and an old Monastery ... which indeed the

opening of this letter leads you to anticipate. In that part of the vast

suburbs of Vienna which faces the north, and which is called the

ROSSAU--there stands a church and a _Capuchin convent_, of some two

centuries antiquity: the latter, now far gone to decay both in the building

and revenues. The outer gate of the convent was opened--as at the Capuchin

convent which contains the imperial sepulchres--by a man with a long,

bushy, and wiry beard ... who could not speak one word of French. I was

alone, and a hackney coach had conveyed me thither. What was to be done.

"_Bibliothecam hujusce Monasterii valdè videre cupio--licetne Domine?"_ The

monk answered my interrogatory with a sonorous "_imo_:" and the gates

closing upon us, I found myself in the cloisters--where my attendant left

me, to seek the Principal and librarian. In two minutes, I observed a

couple of portly Capuchins, pacing the pavement of the cloister, and

approaching me with rather a hurried step. On meeting, they saluted me

formally--and assuming a cheerful air, begged to conduct me to the library.

We were quickly within a room, of very moderate dimensions, divided into

two compartments, of which the shelves were literally thronged and crammed

with books, lying in all directions, and completely covered with dust. It

was impossible to make a selection from such an indigested farrago: but the

backs happening to be lettered, this afforded me considerable facility. I

was told that the "WHOLE LIBRARY WAS AT MY DISPOSAL!"--which intelligence

surprised and somewhat staggered me. The monks seemed to enjoy my

expression of astonishment.

I went to work quickly; and after upwards of an hour's severe rummaging,

among uninteresting folios and quartos of medicine, canon-law, scholastic

metaphysics, and dry comments upon the decretals of Popes Boniface and

Gratian--it was rather from courtesy, than complete satisfaction, that I

pitched upon a few ... of a miscellaneous description--begging to have the

account, for which the money should be immediately forthcoming. They

replied that my wishes should be instantly attended to--but that it would

be necessary to consult together to reconsider the prices--and that a

porter should be at the hotel of the _Crown of Hungary_, with the volumes

selected--to await my final decision. As a _book-bill_ sent from a

monastery, and written in the Latin language, may be considered _unique_ in

our country--and a curiosity among the _Roxburghers _--I venture to send

you a transcript of it: premising, that I retained the books, and paid down

the money: somewhere about _6l. 16s. 6d_. You will necessarily smile at the

epithets bestowed upon your friend.

Plurimum Reverende, ac Venerande Domine!

Mitto cum hisce, quos tibi seligere placuit, libros, eosdemque hic

breviter describo, addito pretio, quo nobis conventum est; et quidem

ex catalogo desumptos:

Florins.

Missale Rom. pro Pataviensis Ecclæ ritu. 1494 5

Missa defunctorum. 1499 3

Val. Martialis Epigrammatum opus. 1475 25

Xenophontis Apologia Socratis 3

Epulario &c. 1

De Conceptu et triplici Mariæ V. Candore 1

ac demum Trithemii Annales Hirsaug. et Aristotelis opera

Edit. Sylburgii 35

-----

73

Quæ cuncta Tibi optime convenire, Teque valere perpetim precor

et opto.

P. JOAN. SARCANDER MRA.

_Ord. Serv. B.M.V._

This is the last _bibliomaniacal_ transaction in which I am likely to be

engaged at Vienna; for, within thirty-six hours from hence, the post horses

will be in the archway of this hotel, with their heads turned towards Old

England. In that direction my face will be also turned ... for the next

month or five weeks to come; being resolved upon spending the best part of

a fortnight of those five weeks, at _Ratisbon_, _Nuremberg_, and _Manheim_.

You may therefore expect to hear from me again--certainly for the _last_

time--at Manheim, just before crossing the Rhine for Chalons sur Marne,

Metz, and Paris. I shall necessarily have but little leisure on the

road--for a journey of full 500 miles is to be encountered before I reach

the hither bank of the Rhine at Manheim.

Farewell then to VIENNA:--a long, and perhaps final farewell! If I have

arrived at a moment when this capital is comparatively thinned of its

population, and bereft of its courtly splendors--and if this city may be

said to be _now_ dull, compared with what its _winter_ gaieties will render

it--I shall nevertheless not have visited it IN VAIN. Books, whether as

MSS. or printed volumes, have been inspected by me with an earnestness and

profitable result--not exceeded by any previous similar application: while

the company of men of worth, of talents, and of kindred tastes, has

rendered my social happiness complete. The best of hearts, and the

friendliest of dispositions, are surely to be found in the capital of

Austria. Farewell. It is almost the hour of midnight--and not a single note

of the harp or violin is to be heard in the streets. The moon shines softly

and sweetly. God bless you.

[134] In Hartman Schedel's time, these suburbs seem to have been

equally distinguished. "Habet (says he, speaking of Vienna) SUBURBIA

MAXIMA et AMBICIOSA." _Chron. Norimb._ 1493. fol. xcviii. rev.

[135] Schedel's general description of the city of Vienna, which is

equally brief and spirited, may deserve to be quoted. "VIENNA autem

urbs magnifica ambitu murorum cingitur duorum millium passuum: habet

fossa et vallo cincta: urbs autem fossatum magnum habet: undique

aggerem prealtum: menia deinde spissa et sublimia frequentesque

turres; et propugnacula ad bellum prompta. Ædes civium amplae et

ornatae: structura solida et firma, altæ domorum facies magnificaeque

visuntur. Unum id dedecori est, quod tecta plerumque ligna contegunt

pauca lateres. Cetera edificia muro lapideo consistunt. Pictæ domus,

et interius et exterius splendent. Ingressus cuiusque domum in ædes te

principis venisse putabis." _Ibid._ This is not an exaggerated

description. A little below, Schedel says "there is a monastery,

called St. Jerome, (much after the fashion of our _Magdalen_) in

which reformed Prostitutes are kept; and where, day and night, they

sing hymns in the Teutonic dialect. If any of them are found relapsing

into their former sinful ways, they are thrown headlong into the

Danube." "But (adds he) they lead, on the contrary, a chaste and holy

life."

[136] I suspect that the houses opposite the Palace are of comparatively

recent construction. In _Pfeffel's Viva et Accurata Delineatio_

of the palaces and public buildings of Vienna, 1725 (oblong folio,)

the palace faces a wide place or square. Eighteen sculptured human

figures, apparently of the size of life, there grace the topmost

ballustrade in the copper-plate view of this truly magnificent

residence.

[137] [Recently however the number of _Restaurateurs_ has become

considerable.]

[138] In Hartmann Schedel's time, there appears to have been a very

considerable traffic in wine at Vienna: "It is incredible (says he)

what a brisk trade is stirring in the article of wine,[139] in this

city. Twelve hundred horses are daily employed for the purposes of

draught--either for the wine drank at Vienna, or sent up the

Danube--against the stream--with amazing labour and difficulty. It is

said that the wine cellars are frequently as deep _below_ the earth,

as the houses are _above_ it." Schedel goes on to describe the general

appearance of the streets, and the neatness of the interiors, of the

houses: adding, "that the windows are generally filled with stained

glass, having iron-gratings without, where numerous birds sing in

cages. The winter (remarks he) sets in here very severely." _Chron.

Norimb_. 1493, fol. xcix.

[139] The vintage about Vienna should seem to have been equally

abundant a century after the above was written. In the year 1590, when

a severe shock of earthquake threatened destruction to the tower of

the Cathedral--and it was absolutely necessary to set about immediate

repairs--the _liquid_ which was applied to make the most

astringent _mortar_, was WINE: "l'on se servit de _vin,_ qui

fut alors en abondance, pour faire le _plâtre_ de cette batise."

_Denkmahle der Baukunst und Bildneren des Mittelalters in dem

Oesterreichischen Kaiserthume_. Germ. Fr. Part iii. p. 36. 1817-20.

[140] There is a good sized (folded) view of the church, or rather

chiefly of the south front of the spire, in the "_Vera et Accurata

Delineatio Omnium Templorum et Cænobiorum_" of Vienna, published by

Pfeffel in the year 1724, oblong folio.

[141] This head has been published as the first plate in the third

livraison of the ECCLESIASTICAL ANTIQUITIES of Vienna--accompanied by

French and German letter-press. I have no hesitation in saying that,

without the least national bias or individual partiality, the

performance of Mr. Lewis--although much smaller, is by far the most

_faithful_; nor is the engraving less superior, than the drawing,

to the production of the Vienna artist. This latter is indeed

faithless in design and coarse in execution. Beneath the head, in the

original sculpture, and in the latter plate, we read the inscription

M.A.P. 1313. It is no doubt an interesting specimen of sculpture of

the period.

[142] Vol. ii. p. 312-313.

[143] There is a large print of it (which I saw at Vienna) in the line

manner, but very indifferently executed. But of the last, detached

group, above described, there is a very fine print in the line manner.

[144] See p. 245 ante.

[145] As in that of the _Feast of Venus in the island of

Cythera_: about eleven feet by seven. There is also another, of

himself, in the Garden of Love--with his two wives--in the peculiarly

powerful and voluptuous style of his pencil. The picture is about four

feet long. His portrait of one of his wives, of the size of life,

habited only in an ermine cloak at the back (of which the print is

well known) is an extraordinary production ... as to colour and

effect.

[146] I am not sure whether any publication, connected with this

extraordinary collection, has appeared since _Chrétien de Mechel's

Catalogue des Tableaux de la Galerie Impériale et Royale de

Vienne_; 1784, 8vo.: which contains, at the end, four folded

copper-plates of the front elevations and ground plans of the Great

and Little Belvederes. He divides his work into the _Venetian,

Roman, Florentine, Bolognese_, and _Ancient and Modern Flemish

Schools_: according to the different chambers or apartments. This

catalogue is a mere straight-forward performance; presenting a formal

description of the pictures, as to size and subject, but rarely

indulging in warmth of commendation, and never in curious and learned

research. The preface, from which I have gleaned the particulars of

the History of the Collection, is sufficiently interesting. My friend

M. Bartsch, if leisure and encouragement were afforded him, might

produce a magnificent and instructive work--devoted to this very

extraordinary collection. (Upon whom, NOW, shall this task devolve?!)

[147] See the OPPOSITE PLATE.

[148] The truth is, not only fac-similes of these illuminations, but

of the initial L, so warmly mentioned at page 292, were executed by M.

Fendi, under the direction of my friend M. Bartsch, and dispatched to

me from Vienna in the month of June 1820--but were lost on the road.

[149] Lord Spencer has recently obtained a copy of this exquisitely

printed book from the M'Carthy collection. See the _Ædes

Althorpianæ;_ vol. ii. p. 192.

[150] [I annex, with no common gratification, a fac-simile of the

Autograph of this most worthy man,

[Illustration]]

[151] He has (_now_) been _dead_ several years.

[152] ECKHEL'S work upon these gems, in 1788, folio, is well known.

The apotheosis of Augustus, in this collection, is considered as an

unrivalled specimen of art, upon sardonyx. I regretted much not to

have seen these gems, but the floor of the room in which they are

preserved was taken up, and the keeper from home.

[153] It will be only necessary to mention--for the establishment of

this fact--the ENGRAVED WORKS alone of M. Bartsch, from masters of

every period, and of every school, amounting to 505 in number: an

almost incredible effort, when we consider that their author has

scarcely yet passed his grand climacteric. His _Peintre Graveur_

is a literary performance, in the graphic department, of really solid

merit and utility. The record of the achievements of M. Bartsch has

been perfected by the most affectionate and grateful of all

hands--those of his son, _Frederic de Bartsch_--in an octavo volume,

which bears the following title, and which has the portrait (but not a

striking resemblance) of the father prefixed:--"_Catalogue des

Estampes de_ J. ADAM de BARTSCH, _Chevalier de l'Ordre de Léopold,

Conseiller aulique et Premier Garde de la Bibl. Imp. et Roy. de la

Cour, Membre de l'Academie des Beaux Arts de Vienne_." 1818. 8vo. pp.

165. There is a modest and sensible preface by the son--in which we

are informed that the catalogue was not originally compiled for the

purpose of making it public.

The following is a fac-simile of the Autograph of this celebrated

graphical Critic and Artist.

[Illustration]

[154] The MONASTERY of CLOSTERNEUBURG, or Nevenburg, or Nuenburg, or

Newburg, or Neunburg--is supposed to have been built by Leopold the

Pious in the year 1114. It was of the order of St. Augustin. They

possess (at the monastery, it should seem) a very valuable chronicle,

of the XIIth century, upon vellum--devoted to the history of the

establishment; but unluckily defective at the beginning and end. It is

supposed to have been written by the head of the monastery, for the

time being. It is continued by a contemporaneous hand, down to the

middle of the fourteenth century. They preserve also, at

Closterneuburg, a Necrology--of five hundred years--down to the year

1721. "Inter cæteros præstantes veteres codices manuscriptos, quos

INSIGNIS BIBLIOTHECA CLAUSTRO-NEOBURGENSIS servat, est pervetus

inclytæ ejusdem canoniæ Necrologium, ante annos quingentos in

membranis elegantissimè manu exaratum, et a posteriorum temporum

auctoribus continuatum." _Script. Rer. Austriacar. Cura Pez._

1721. vol. 1. col. 435, 494.

[155] The librarian, MAXIMILIAN FISCHER, informed me the quarto copies

were rare, for that only 400 were printed. The octavo copies are not

so, but they do not contain all the marginal references which are in

the quarto impressions.

[156] In fact, I wrote a letter to the librarian, the day after my

visit, proposing to give 2000 florins in specie for the volumes above

described. My request was answered by the following polite, and

certainly most discreet and commendable reply: "D....Domine! Litteris

a Te 15. Sept. scriptis et 16 Sept. a me receptis, de Tuo desiderio

nonnullos bibliothecæ nostræ libros pro pecunia acquirendi, me

certiorem reddidisti; ast mihi respondendum venit, quod tuis votis

obtemperare non possim. Copia horum librorum ad cimelium bibliothecæ

Claustroneoburgensis merito refertur, et maxima sunt in æstimatione

apud omnes confratres meos; porro, lege civili cautum est, ne libri et

res rariores Abbatiarum divenderentur. Si unum aliumve horum, ceu

duplicatum, invenissem, pro æquissimo pretio in signum venerationis

transmisissem.

"Ad alia, si præstare possem, officia, me paratissimum invenies,

simulque Te obsecro, me æstimatorem tui sincerrimum reputes, hinc me

in ulteriorem recordationem commendo, ac dignum me æstimes quod

nominare me possem,

... dominationis Tuæ

_E Canonia Claustroneoburgensi_, addictissimum

17 _Septbr_ 1818. MAXIMILIANUM FISCHER.

Can. reg. Bibliothec. et

Archivar."

_Supplement_.

RATISBON, NUREMBERG, MANHEIM.

_Supplement_.

Having found it impracticable to write to my friend--on the route from

Vienna to Paris, and from thence to London--the reader is here presented

with a few SUPPLEMENTAL PARTICULARS with which that route furnished me; and

which, I presume to think, will not be considered either misplaced or

uninteresting. They are arranged quite in the manner of MEMORANDA, or

heads: not unaccompanied with a regret that the limits of this work forbid

a more extended detail. I shall immediately, therefore, conduct the reader

from Vienna to

RATISBON.

I left VIENNA, with my travelling companion, within two days after writing

the last letter, dated from that place--upon a beautiful September morning.

But ere we had reached _St. Pölten_, the face of the heavens was changed,

and heavy rain accompanied us till we got to Mölk, where we slept: not

however before I had written a note to the worthy _Benedictine Fraternity_

at the monastery--professing my intention of breakfasting with them the

next morning. This self-invitation was joyfully accepted, and the valet,

who returned with the written answer, told me that it was a high day of

feasting and merry-making at the monastery--and that he had left the worthy

Monks in the plenitude of their social banquet. We were much gratified the

next morning, not only by the choice and excellence of the breakfast, but

by the friendliness of our reception. So simple are manners here, that, in

going up the hill, towards the monastery, we met the worthy Vice Principal,

Pallas, habited in his black gown--returning from a baker's shop, where he

had been to bespeak the best bread. I was glad to renew my acquaintance

with the Abbé Strattman, and again solicited permission for Mr. Lewis to

take the portrait of so eminent a bibliographer. But in vain: the Abbé

answering, with rather a melancholy and mysterious air, that "the world was

lost to him, and himself to the world."

We parted--with pain on both sides; and on the same evening slept, where we

had stopt in our route to Vienna, at _Lintz_. The next morning (Sunday) we

started betimes to breakfast at _Efferding_. Our route lay chiefly along

the banks of the Danube ... under hanging woods on one side, with villages

and villas on the other. The fog hung heavily about us; and we could catch

but partial and unsatisfactory glimpses of that scenery, which, when

lightened by a warm sunshine, must be perfectly romantic. At Efferding our

carriage and luggage were examined, while we breakfasted. The day now

brightened up, and nothing but sunshine and "the song of earliest birds"

accompanied us to _Sigharding_,--the next post town. Hence to _Scharding_,

where we dined, and to _Fürsternell_, where we supped and slept. The inn

was crowded by country people below, but we got excellent quarters in the

attics; and were regaled with peaches, after supper, which might have vied

with those out of the Imperial garden at Vienna. We arose betimes, and

breakfasted at _Vilshofen_--and having lost sight of the Danube, since we

left Efferding, we were here glad to come again in view of it: and

especially to find it accompany us a good hundred miles of our route, till

we reached _Ratisbon_.

_Straubing_, where we dined--and which is within two posts of Ratisbon--is

a very considerable town. The Danube washes parts of its suburbs. As the

day was uncommonly serene and mild, even to occasional sultriness, and as

we were in excellent time for reaching Ratisbon that evening, we devoted an

hour or two to rambling in this town. Mr. Lewis made sketches, and I

strolled into churches, and made enquiries after booksellers shops, and

possessors of old books: but with very little success. A fine hard road, as

level as a bowling green, carries you within an hour to _Pfätter_--the post

town between Straubing and Ratisbon--and almost twice that distance brings

you to the latter place.

A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three · 第 24 / 29 段