Principal, and obtain permission to inspect the library. My late monastic
visits had inspired me with confidence; and I marched up the steep sides of
the hill, upon which the monastery is built, quite assured of the success
of the visit I was about to pay. You must now accompany the bibliographer
to the monastery. In five minutes from entering the outer gate of the first
quadrangle--looking towards Vienna, and which is the more ancient part of
the building--I was in conversation with the Vice Principal and Librarian,
each of us speaking Latin. I delivered the letter which I had received at
Salzburg, and proceeded to the library. In proceeding with the Librarian
along the first corridor, I passed a portly figure, with an expressive
countenance, dressed precisely like the Duke of Norfolk,[102] in black
waistcoat, breeches, and stockings, with a gray coat. He might seem to be a
sort of small paper copy of that well-known personage, for he resembled him
in countenance as well as in dress. On meeting, he saluted me graciously:
and he had no sooner passed, than my guide whispered in my ear, "THAT is
the famous bibliographer, the ABBÉ STRATTMAN, late principal librarian to
the Emperor." I was struck at this intelligence; and wished to run back
after the Abbé,--but, in a minute, found myself within the library. I first
went into a long, narrow, room--devoted, the greater part, to MSS.:--and at
the hither end of which (that is, the end where I entered) were two
figures--as large as, and painted after, the life. They were cut out in
wood, or thick pasteboard; and were stuck in the centre of the space
between the walls. One was an old gentleman, with a pair of bands, and a
lady, his wife, opposite to him. Each was sitting upon a chair. A dog (if I
remember rightly) was between them. The effect was at first rather
_startling_; for these good folks, although they had been sitting for the
best part of a century, looked like life, and as if they were going to rise
up, and interrogate you for impertinently intruding upon their privacy. On
nearing them, I found that the old gentleman had been a great pedagogue,
and a great benefactor to the library: in short, the very MSS. by which we
were surrounded were _solid_ proofs of his liberality. I was urgent and
particular about the _contents_ of these MSS.; but my guide (otherwise a
communicative and well-informed man) answered my questions in a manner so
general, as to lead me to conclude that they had never been sufficiently
examined. There might be at least four thousand volumes in this long and
narrow room.
From thence we proceeded, across a passage, to a small room--filled with
common useful books, for the young men of which the monastic society is now
composed; and who I learnt were about one hundred and twenty in number.
There were, however, at one end of this room, some coins and medals. I was
curious about ascertaining whether they had any _Greek gold coins_, but was
answered that they had none. This room is divided into two, by a partition
something like the modern fashion of dividing our drawing rooms. The whole
is profusely ornamented with paintings executed upon the walls; rather
elegantly than otherwise. The view from this library is really
enchanting--and put every thing seen, from a similar situation at Landshut,
and almost even at Chremsminster, out of my recollection. You look down
upon the Danube, catching a fine sweep of the river, as it widens in its
course towards Vienna. A man might sit, read, and gaze--in such a
situation--till he fancied he had scarcely one earthly want! I now
descended a small stair-case, which brought me directly into the large
library--forming the right wing of the building, looking up the Danube
towards Lintz. I had scarcely uttered three notes of admiration, when the
ABBÉ STRATTMAN entered; and to my surprise and satisfaction, addressed me
by name. We immediately commenced an ardent unintermitting conversation in
the French language, which the Abbé speaks fluently and correctly. We
darted at once into the lore of bibliography of the fifteenth century; when
the Abbé descanted largely upon the wonders I should see at
Vienna:--especially the Sweynheyms and Pannartz' UPON VELLUM! "Here
(continued he) there is absolutely nothing worthy of your inspection. We
have here no edit. prin. of _Horace_, or _Virgil_, or _Terence_, or
_Lucretius_: a copy of the _Decretals of Pope Boniface_, of the date of
1465, is our earliest and only VELLUM treasure of the XVth century. But you
will doubtless take the _Monastery of Göttwic_ in your way?" I replied that
I was wholly ignorant of the existence of such a monastery. "Then see
it--(said, he) and see it carefully; for the library contains _Incunabula_
of the most curious and scarce kind. Besides, its situation is the noblest
in Austria." You will give me credit for not waiting for a _second_
importunity to see such a place, before I answered--"I will most assuredly
visit the monastery of Göttwic."
I now took a leisurely survey of the library; which is, beyond all doubt,
the finest room of its kind which I have seen upon the Continent:--not for
its size, but for its style of architecture, and the materials of which it
is composed. I was told that it was "the Imperial Library in
miniature:"--but with this difference, let me here add, in favour of
Mölk--that it looks over a magnificently-wooded country, with the Danube
rolling its rapid course at its base. The wainscot and shelves are walnut
tree, of different shades, inlaid, or dovetailed, surmounted by gilt
ornaments. The pilasters have Corinthian capitals of gilt; and the bolder
or projecting parts of a gallery, which surrounds the room, are covered
with the same metal. Every thing is in harmony. This library may be about a
hundred feet in length, by forty in width. It is sufficiently well
furnished with books, of the ordinary useful class, and was once, I
suspect, much richer in the bibliographical lore of the fifteenth century.
The Abbé Strattman bade me examine a _MS. of Horace_, of the twelfth
century, which he said had been inspected by Mitscherlich.[103] It seemed
to be of the period adjudged to it. The Vice-Principal, M. PALLAS, now made
his appearance. He talked French readily, and we all four commenced a very
interesting conversation, "Did any books ever travel out of this
library?"--said I. "Surely there must be many which are rather objects of
curiosity than of utility: rarely consulted, no doubt; but which, by being
exchanged for others of a more modern and useful description, would
contribute more effectually to the purposes of public education, in an
establishment of such magnitude?"
These questions I submitted with great deference, and without the least
hesitation, to the Vice Principal; who replied in such a manner as to
induce me immediately to ascend the staircase, and commence a
reconnaissance among the books placed above the gallery. The result of
twenty minutes examination was, if not absolutely of the _most_ gratifying
kind, at least sufficient to induce me to offer _twenty louis d'or_ for
some thirty volumes, chiefly thin quartos, containing many Greek
grammatical and philosophical tracts, of which I had never before seen
copies. Some scarce and curious theological Latin tracts were also in this
number. I turned the books upon their fore-edges, leaving their ends
outwards, in order to indicate those which had been selected. M. Pallas
told me that he could say nothing definitive in reply,[104] for that the
matter must be submitted to the Prelate, or head of the monastery, who, at
that time, was at Vienna, perhaps at the point of death. From the library
we went to the church. This latter is situated between the two wings: the
wings themselves forming the Saloon and the library. As we were about to
leave the library, the Abbé observed--"Here, we have food for the _mind_:
in the opposite quarter we dine--which is food for the _body_:[105] between
both, is the church, which contains food for the _soul_." On entering the
corridor, I looked up and saw the following inscription (from 1 _Mac._ c.
xii. v. 9.) over the library door: "_Habentes solatio sanctos libros qui
sunt in manibus nostris_." My next gratification was, a view of the
portrait of BERTHOLDUS DIETMAYR--the founder, or rather the restorer, both
of the library and of the monastery--possessing a countenance full of
intelligence and expression. Beneath the portrait, which is scarcely half
the size of life, is the following distich:
_Bertholdi Dietmayr Quidquid Mortale, Tabella,
Ingentemque animum_ BIBLIOTHECA, _refert._
"There," exclaimed the Abbé Strattman--"there you have the portrait of a
_truly_ great man: one of the three select and privy counsellors of the
Emperor Charles VI. Dietmayr was a man of a truly lofty soul, of a refined
taste, and of unbounded wealth and liberality of spirit. Even longer than
this edifice shall last, will the celebrity of its founder endure." My
heart overflowed with admiration as I heard the words of the Abbé, gazing,
at the same time, intently upon the portrait of the Prelate Dietmayr. Such
men keep the balance of this world even.
On reaching the last descending step, just before entering the church, the
Vice Principal bade me look upwards and view the cork-screw stair-case. I
did so: and to view and admire was one and the same operation of the mind.
It was the most perfect and extraordinary thing of the kind which I had
ever seen--the consummation (as I was told) of that particular species of
art. The church is the very perfection of ecclesiastical Roman
architecture: that of Chremsminster, although fine, being much inferior to
it in loftiness and richness of decoration. The windows are fixed so as to
throw their concentrated light beneath a dome, of no ordinary height, and
of no ordinary elegance of decoration; but this dome is suffering from
damp, and the paintings upon the ceiling will, unless repaired, be effaced
in the course of a few years. The church is in the shape of a cross; and at
the end of each of the transepts, is a rich altar, with statuary, in the
style of art usual about a century ago. The pews--made of dark mahogany or
walnut tree, much after the English fashion, but lower and more
tasteful--are placed on each side of the nave, on entering; with ample
space between them. They are exclusively appropriated to the tenants of the
monastery. At the end of the nave, you look to the left, opposite,--and
observe, placed in a recess--a PULPIT ... which, from top to bottom, is
completely covered with gold. And yet, there is nothing gaudy, or
tasteless, or glaringly obtrusive, in this extraordinary clerical rostrum.
The whole is in the most perfect taste; and perhaps more judgment was
required to manage such an ornament, or appendage,--consistently with the
splendid style of decoration exacted by the founder--(for it was expressly
the Prelate Dietmayr's wish that it _should_ be so adorned) than may, on
first consideration, be supposed. In fact, the whole church is in a blaze
of gold; and I was told that the gilding alone cost upwards of ninety
thousand florins. Upon the whole, I understood that the church of this
monastery was considered as the most beautiful in Austria; and I can easily
believe it to be so.
The time flew away so quickly that there was no opportunity of seeing the
Saloon. Indeed, I was informed that it was occupied by the students--an
additional reason why I _ought_ to have seen it. "But have you no old
paintings, Mr. Vice Principal--no Burgmairs, Cranachs, or Albert Durers?"
said I to M. Pallas. "Ha! (observed he in reply,) you like old pictures,
then, as well as old books. Come with me, and you shall be satisfied." So
saying, the Abbé Strattman[106] left us, and I followed the Vice
Principal--into a small, wainscoted room, of which he touched the springs
of some of the compartments, and anon there was exhibited to my view a
series of sacred subjects, relating to the Life of Christ, executed by the
first and last named masters: exceedingly fresh, vigorously painted, and
one or two of them very impressive, but bordering upon the grotesque. I am
not sure that I saw any thing more striking of the kind even in the
extraordinary collection at Augsbourg. From this room I was conducted into
the Prelate's apartment, where I observed a bed--in an arched recess--which
might be called a bed of state. "Our Prelate has left his apartment for the
last time; he will never sleep in this bed again"--observed M. Pallas,
fixing himself at the foot of it, and directing his eyes towards the
pillow. I saw what it was to be beloved and respected; for the Vice
Principal took the end of his gown to wipe away a little _dust_ (as he was
pleased to call it--but I suspect it was a starting tear) which had fallen
into his eye. I was then shewn a set of china, manufactured at Vienna--upon
some of the pieces of which were painted views of the monastery. This had
been presented to the Prelate; and I was then, as a final exhortation,
requested to view the country around me. Need I again remark, that this
country was enchantingly fine?
On returning to the inn, and dining, we lingered longer than we were wont
to do over our dessert and white wine, when the valet came to announce to
us that from thence to _St. Pölten_ was a long stage; and that if we wished
to reach the latter before dark, we had not ten minutes to spare. This hint
was sufficient: and the ten minutes had scarcely elapsed when we were on
the high road to St. Pölten. It was indeed almost with the last glimmer of
daylight that we entered this town, yet I could observe, on descending the
hill by which we entered it, a stone crucifix, with the usual accompanying
group. I resolved to give it a careful examination on the morrow.
The inn at St. Pölten (I think it was the Dolphin) surprised us by its
cheerfulness and neatness. The rooms were papered so as to represent gothic
interiors, or ornamented gardens, or shady bowers. Every thing
was--almost--as an Englishman could wish it to be. Having learnt that the
MONASTERY OF GÖTTWIC was a digression of only some twelve or fourteen
miles, I resolved to set off to visit it immediately after an early
breakfast. We had scarcely left the town, when we observed a group of
rustics, with a crucifix carried in front--indicating that they were about
to visit some consecrated spot, for the purpose of fulfilling a vow or
performing an annual pilgrimage. I stopped the carriage, to take a survey
of so novel a scene; but I confess that there was nothing in it which
induced me to wish to be one of the party. If I mistake not, this was the
first pilgrimage or procession, of the kind, which I had seen in Austria,
or even in Bavaria. It was a sorry cavalcade. Some of the men, and even
women, were without shoes and stockings; and they were scattered about the
road in a very loose, straggling manner. Many of the women wore a piece of
linen, or muslin, half way up their faces, over the mouth; and although the
road was not very smooth, both men and women appeared to be in excellent
spirits, and to move briskly along--occasionally singing, and looking up to
the crucifix--which a stout young man carried at the head of them. They
were moving in the direction of the Monastery of Göttwic.
It was cold and cloudy at starting; but on leaving the main road, and
turning to the left, the horizon cleared up--and it was evident that a fine
day was in store for us. Our expectations were raised in proportion to the
increasing beauty of the day. The road, though a cross one, was good;
winding through a pleasant country, and affording an early glimpse of the
monastery in question--at the distance of at least ten miles--and situated
upon a lofty eminence. The first view of it was grand and imposing, and
stimulated us to urge our horses to a speedier course. The country
continued to improve. Some vineyards were beginning to shew the early blush
of harvest; and woods of fir, and little meandring streams running between
picturesque inequalities of ground, gave an additional interest to every
additional mile of the route. At length we caught a glimpse of a crowd of
people, halting, in all directions. Some appeared to be sitting, others
standing, more lying; and a good number were engaged in devotion before a
statue. As we approached them, we observed the statue to be that of St.
Francis; around which this numerous group of pilgrims appeared to have
marshalled themselves--making a HALT in their pilgrimage (as we afterwards
learnt) to the monastery of Göttwic.
The day continued to become more and more brilliant, and the scenery to
keep pace with the weather. It was evident that we were nearing the
monastery very rapidly. On catching the first distinct view of it, my
companion could not restrain his admiration. At this moment, from the
steepness of the ascent, I thought it prudent to descend, and to walk to
the monastery. The view from thence was at once commanding and enchanting.
The Danube was the grand feature in the landscape; while, near its very
borders, at the distance perhaps of three English miles, stood the post
town of _Chrems_. The opposite heights of the Danube were well covered with
wood. The sun now shone in his meridian splendour, and every feature of the
country seemed to be in a glow with his beams. I next turned my thoughts to
gain entrance within the monastery, and by the aid of my valet it was not
long before that wished for object was accomplished. The interior is large
and handsome, but of less architectural splendor than Mölk or even St.
Florian. The librarian, Odilo Klama, was from home. Not a creature was to
be found; and I was pacing the cloisters with a dejected air, when my
servant announced to me that the Vice Principal would receive me, and
conduct me to the Head or President.
This was comforting intelligence. I revived in an instant; and following,
along one corridor, and up divers stair-cases, I seemed to be gaining the
summit of the building, when a yet more spacious corridor brought me to the
door of the President's apartments: catching views, on my way thither, of
increasing extent and magnificence. But all consideration of exterior
objects was quickly lost on my reception at head quarters. The Principal,
whose name is ALTMANN, was attired in a sort of half-dignity dress; a gold
chain and cross hung upon his breast, and a black silk cap covered his
head. A gown, and what seemed to be a cassock, covered his body. He had the
complete air of a gentleman, and might have turned his fiftieth year. His
countenance bespoke equal intelligence and benevolence:--but alas! not a
word of French could he speak--and Latin was therefore necessarily resorted
to by both parties. I entreated him to forgive all defects of composition
and of pronunciation; at which he smiled graciously. The Vice Principal
then bowed to the Abbot and retreated; but not before I had observed them
to whisper apart--and to make gesticulations which I augured to portend
something in the shape of providing refreshment, if not dinner. My
suspicion was quickly confirmed; for, on the Vice Principal quitting the
apartment, the Abbot observed to me--"you will necessarily partake of our
dinner--which is usually at _one_ o'clock; but which I have postponed till
_three_, in order that I may conduct you over the monastery, and shew you
what is worthy of observation. You have made a long journey hither, and
must not be disappointed."
The manner in which this was spoken was as courteous as the purport of the
speech was hospitable. "Be pleased to be covered (continued the Abbot) and
I will conduct you forthwith to the Library: although I regret to add that
our Librarian Odilo is just now from home--having gone, for the day, upon a
botanical excursion towards Chrems--as it is now holiday time." In our way
to the library, I asked the Principal respecting the revenues of the
establishment and its present condition--whether it were flourishing or
otherwise--adding, that Chremsminster appeared to me to be in a very
flourishing state." "They are much wealthier (observed the Principal) at
Chremsminster than we are here. Establishments like this, situated near a
metropolis, are generally more _severely_ visited than are those in a
retired and remote part of the kingdom. Our very situation is inviting to a
foe, from its commanding the adjacent country. Look at the prospect around
you. It is unbounded. On yon opposite wooded heights, (on the other side of
the Danube) we all saw, from these very windows, the fire and smoke of the
advanced guard of the French army, in contest with the Austrians, upon
Bonaparte's first advance towards Vienna. The French Emperor himself took
possession of this monastery. He slept here, and we entertained him the
next day with the best _dejeuné à la fourchette_ which we could afford. He
seemed well satisfied with his reception; but I own that I was glad when he
left us. Strangers to arms in this tranquil retreat, and visited only, as
you may now visit us, for the purpose of peaceful hospitality, it agitated
us extremely to come in contact with warriors and chieftains.
The preceding was not delivered in one uninterrupted flow of language; but
I only string it together as answers to various questions put by myself.
"Observe yonder"--continued the Abbot--"do you notice an old castle in the
distance, to the left, situated almost upon the very banks of the Danube?"
"I observe it well," replied I. "That castle, (answered he) so tradition
reports, once held your Richard the First, when he was detained a prisoner
by Leopold Marquis of Austria, on his return from the Holy-Land." The more
the Abbot spoke, and the more I continued to gaze around, the more I
fancied myself treading upon faëry ground, and that the scene in which I
was engaged partook of the illusion of romance. "Our funds (continued my
intelligent guide, as he placed his hand upon my arm, and arrested our
progress towards the library) need be much more abundant than they really
are. We have great burdens to discharge. All our food is brought from a
considerable distance, and we are absolutely dependant upon our neighbours
for water, as there are neither wells nor springs in the soil." "I wonder
(replied I) why such a spot was chosen--except for its insulated and
commanding situation--as water is the first requisite in every monastic
establishment?" "Do you then overlook the _Danube_?"--resumed he--"We get
our fish from thence; and, upon the whole, feel our wants less than it
might be supposed."
In our way to the Library, I observed a series of oil paintings along the
corridor--which represented the history of the founder, and of the
foundation, of the monastery.[107] The artist's name was, if I remember
rightly, Helgendoeffer--or something like it. Many of the subjects were
curious, and none of them absolutely ill executed. I observed the devil, or
some imp, introduced in more than one picture; and remarked upon it to my
guide. He said--"where will you find truth unmixed with fiction?" My
observation was adroitly parried; and we now found ourselves close to the
library door; where three or four Benedictins, (for I should have told you
that this famous monastery is of the order of _St. Benedict_) professors on
the establishment, were apparently waiting to receive us. They first
saluted the Abbot very respectfully, and then myself--with a degree of
cheerfulness amounting almost to familiarity. In a remote and strange
place, of such a character, nothing is more encouraging than such a
reception. Two of our newly joined associates could luckily speak the
French language, which rendered my intercourse with the Principal yet more
pleasing and satisfactory to myself. The library door was now opened, and I
found myself within a long and spacious room--of which the book-shelves
were composed of walnut tree--but of which the architectural ornaments were
scarcely to be endured, after having so recently seen those in the library
of Mölk. However, it may be fairly said that the Library was worthy of the
Monastery: well stored with books and MSS., and probably the richest in
bibliographical lore in Austria, after that at Vienna.
We now entered the saloon, for dinner. It was a larger light, and lofty
room. The ceiling was covered with paintings of allegorical subjects, in
fresco, descriptive of the advantages of piety and learning. Among the
various groups, I thought I could discern--as I could only take a hasty
survey during my meal--the apotheosis of the founder of the monastery.
Perhaps I rather wished to see it there, than that it was absolutely
depicted. However, we sat down, at the high table--precisely as you may
remember it in the halls at Oxford--to a plentiful and elegant repast. The
Principal did me the honour of placing me at his right hand. Grace was no
sooner said, than Mr. Lewis made his appearance, and seemed to view the
scene before him with mingled delight and astonishment. He had, in fact,
just completed his sketch of the monastery, and was well satisfied at
seeing me in such quarters, and so occupied. The brethren were also well
pleased to receive him, but first begged to have a glance at the
drawing--with which they were highly gratified.