"A DEJEUNER AT LAVENUE'S"
If you should chance to breakfast at "Lavenue's," or, as it is called,
the "Hotel de France et Bretagne," for years famous as a rendezvous of
men celebrated in art and letters, you will be impressed first with the
simplicity of the three little rooms forming the popular side of this
restaurant, and secondly with the distinguished appearance of its
clientele.
[Illustration: MADEMOISELLE FANNY AND HER STAFF]
As you enter the front room, you pass good Mademoiselle Fanny at the
desk, a cheery, white-capped, genial old lady, who has sat behind that
desk for forty years, and has seen many a "bon garcon" struggle up the
ladder of fame--from the days when he was a student at the Beaux-Arts,
until his name became known the world over. It has long been a
favorite restaurant with men like Rodin, the sculptor--and Colin, the
painter--and the late Falguiere--and Jean Paul Laurens and Bonnat,
and dozens of others equally celebrated--and with our own men, like
Whistler and Sargent and Harrison, and St. Gaudens and Macmonnies.
These three plain little rooms are totally different from the "other
side," as it is called, of the Maison Lavenue. Here one finds quite a
gorgeous cafe, with a pretty garden in the rear, and another
room--opening into the garden--done in delicate green lattice and
mirrors. This side is far more expensive to dine in than the side with
the three plain little rooms, and the gentlemen with little red
ribbons in their buttonholes; but as the same good cook dispenses from
the single big kitchen, which serves for the dear and the cheap side
the same good things to eat at just half the price, the reason for the
popularity of the "cheap side" among the crowd who come here daily is
evident.
[Illustration: RODIN]
It is a quiet, restful place, this Maison Lavenue, and the best place I
know in which to dine or breakfast from day to day. There is an air of
intime and cosiness about Lavenue's that makes one always wish to
return.
[Illustration: (group of men dining)]
You will see a family of rich bourgeois enter, just in from the country,
for the Montparnasse station is opposite. The fat, sunburned mama, and
the equally rotund and genial farmer-papa, and the pretty daughter, and
the newly married son and his demure wife, and the two younger
children--and all talking and laughing over a good dinner with
champagne, and many toasts to the young couple--and to mama and papa,
and little Josephine--with ices, and fruit, and coffee, and liqueur to
follow.
All these you will see at Lavenue's on the "cheap side"--and the
beautiful model, too, who poses for Courbel, who is breakfasting with
one of the jeunesse of Paris. The waiters after 2 P.M. dine in the front
room with the rest, and jump up now and then to wait on madame and
monsieur.
It is a very democratic little place, this popular side of the house of
M. Lavenue, founded in 1854.
And there is a jolly old painter who dines there, who is also an
excellent musician, with an ear for rhythm so sensitive that he could
never go to sleep unless the clock in his studio ticked in regular time,
and at last was obliged to give up his favorite atelier, with its
picturesque garden----
"For two reasons, monsieur," he explained to me excitedly; "a little
girl on the floor below me played a polka--the same polka half the
day--always forgetting to put in the top note; and the fellow over me
whistled it the rest of the day and put in the top note false; and so I
moved to the rue St. Peres, where one only hears, within the cool
court-yard, the distant hum of the busy city. The roar of Paris, so full
of chords and melody! Listen to it sometimes, monsieur, and you will
hear a symphony!"
[Illustration: "LA FILLE DE LA BLANCHISSEUSE"
By Bellanger.--Estampe Moderne]
And Mademoiselle Fanny will tell you of the famous men she has known for
years, and how she has found the most celebrated of them simple in their
tastes, and free from ostentation--"in fact it is always so, is it not,
with les hommes celebres? C'est toujours comme ca, monsieur, toujours!"
and mentions one who has grown gray in the service of art and can count
his decorations from half a dozen governments. Madame will wax
enthusiastic--her face wreathed in smiles. "Ah! he is a bon garcon; he
always eats with the rest, for three or four francs, never more! He is
so amiable, and, you know, he is very celebrated and very rich"; and
madame will not only tell you his entire history, but about his
work--the beauty of his wife and how "aimables" his children are.
Mademoiselle Fanny knows them all.
But the men who come here to lunch are not idlers; they come in, many of
them, fresh from a hard morning's work in the studio. The tall sculptor
opposite you has been at work, since his morning coffee, on a group for
the government; another, bare-armed and in his flannel shirt, has been
building up masses of clay, punching and modeling, and scraping away,
all the morning, until he produces, in the rough, the body of a
giantess, a huge caryatide that is destined, for the rest of her
existence, to hold upon her broad shoulders part of the facade of an
American building. The "giantess" in the flesh is lunching with him--a
Juno-like woman of perhaps twenty-five, with a superb head well poised,
her figure firm and erect. You will find her exceedingly interesting,
quiet, and refined, and with a knowledge of things in general that will
surprise you, until you discover she has, in her life as a model, been
thrown daily in conversation with men of genius, and has acquired a
smattering of the knowledge of many things--of art and literature--of
the theater and its playwrights--plunging now and then into medicine and
law and poetry--all these things she has picked up in the studios, in
the cafes, in the course of her Bohemian life. This "vernis," as the
French call it, one finds constantly among the women here, for their
days are passed among men of intelligence and ability, whose lives and
energy are surrounded and encouraged by an atmosphere of art.
In an hour, the sculptor and his Juno-like model will stroll back to the
studio, where work will be resumed as long as the light lasts.
[Illustration: A TRUE TYPE]
The painter breakfasting at the next table is hard at work on a
decorative panel for a ceiling. It is already laid out and squared up,
from careful pencil drawings. Two young architects are working for him,
laying out the architectural balustrade, through which one, a month
later, looks up at the allegorical figures painted against the dome of
the blue heavens, as a background. And so the painter swallows his eggs,
mayonnaise, and demi of beer, at a gulp, for he has a model coming at
two, and he must finish this ceiling on time, and ship it, by a fast
liner, to a millionaire, who has built a vault-like structure on the
Hudson, with iron dogs on the lawn. Here this beautiful panel will be
unrolled and installed in the dome of the hard-wood billiard-room, where
its rich, mellow scheme of color will count as naught; and the cupids
and the flesh-tones of the chic little model, who came at two, will
appear jaundiced; and Aunt Maria and Uncle John, and the twins from
Ithaca, will come in after the family Sunday dinner of roast beef and
potatoes and rice pudding and ice-water, and look up into the dome and
agree "it's grand." But the painter does not care, for he has locked up
his studio, and taken his twenty thousand francs and the model--who came
at two--with him to Trouville.
At night you will find a typical crowd of Bohemians at the Closerie des
Lilas, where they sit under a little clump of trees on the sloping dirt
terrace in front. Here you will see the true type of the Quarter. It is
the farthest up the Boulevard St. Michel of any of the cafes, and just
opposite the "Bal Bullier," on the Place de l'Observatoire. The terrace
is crowded with its habitues, for it is out of the way of the stream of
people along the "Boul' Miche." The terrace is quite dark, its only
light coming from the cafe, back of a green hedge, and it is cool there,
too, in summer, with the fresh night air coming from the Luxembourg
Gardens. Below it is the cafe and restaurant de la Rotonde, a very
well-built looking place, with its rounding facade on the corner.
[Illustration: (studio)]
At the entrance of every studio court and apartment, there lives the
concierge in a box of a room generally, containing a huge feather-bed
and furnished with a variety of things left by departing tenants to this
faithful guardian of the gate. Many of these small rooms resemble the
den of an antiquary with their odds and ends from the studios--old
swords, plaster casts, sketches and discarded furniture--until the place
is quite full. Yet it is kept neat and clean by madame, who sews all day
and talks to her cat and to every one who passes into the court-yard.
Here your letters are kept, too, in one of a row of boxes, with the
number of your atelier marked thereon.
At night, after ten, your concierge opens the heavy iron gate of your
court by pulling a cord within reach of the family bed. He or she is
waked up at intervals through the night to let into and out of a court
full of studios those to whom the night is ever young. Or perhaps your
concierge will be like old Pere Valois, who has three pretty daughters
who do the housework of the studios, as well as assist in the
guardianship of the gate. They are very busy, these three daughters of
Pere Valois--all the morning you will see these little "femmes de
menage" as busy as bees; the artists and poets must be waked up, and
beds made and studios cleaned. There are many that are never cleaned at
all, but then there are many, too, who are not so fortunate as to be
taken care of by the three daughters of Pere Valois.
[Illustration: VOILA LA BELLE ROSE, MADAME!]
There is no gossip within the quarter that your "femme de menage" does
not know, and over your morning coffee, which she brings you, she will
regale you with the latest news about most of your best friends,
including your favorite model, and madame from whom you buy your wine,
always concluding with: "That is what I heard, monsieur,--I think it is
quite true, because the little Marie, who is the femme de menage of
Monsieur Valentin, got it from Celeste Dauphine yesterday in the cafe in
the rue du Cherche Midi."
In the morning, this demure maid-of-all-work will be in her calico dress
with her sleeves rolled up over her strong white arms, but in the
evening you may see her in a chic little dress, at the "Bal Bullier," or
dining at the Pantheon, with the fellow whose studio is opposite yours.
[Illustration: A BUSY MORNING]
Alice Lemaitre, however, was a far different type of femme de menage
than any of the gossiping daughters of old Pere Valois, and her lot was
harder, for one night she left her home in one of the provincial towns,
when barely sixteen, and found herself in Paris with three francs to her
name and not a friend in this big pleasure-loving city to turn to. After
many days of privation, she became bonne to a woman known as Yvette de
Marcie, a lady with a bad temper and many jewels, to whom little Alice,
with her rosy cheeks and bright eyes and willing disposition to work in
order to live, became a person upon whom this fashionable virago of a
demi-mondaine vented the worst that was in her--and there was much of
this--until Alice went out into the world again. She next found
employment at a baker's, where she was obliged to get up at four in the
morning, winter and summer, and deliver the long loaves of bread at the
different houses; but the work was too hard and she left. The baker paid
her a trifle a week for her labor, while the attractive Yvette de Marcie
turned her into the street without her wages. It was while delivering
bread one morning to an atelier in the rue des Dames, that she chanced
to meet a young painter who was looking for a good femme de menage to
relieve his artistic mind from the worries of housekeeping. Little Alice
fairly cried when the good painter told her she might come at twenty
francs a month, which was more money than this very grateful and brave
little Brittany girl had ever known before.
[Illustration: (brocanteur shop front)]
"You see, monsieur, one must do one's best whatever one undertakes,"
said Alice to me; "I have tried every profession, and now I am a good
femme de menage, and I am 'bien contente.' No," she continued, "I shall
never marry, for one's independence is worth more than anything else.
When one marries," she said earnestly, her little brow in a frown,
"one's life is lost; I am young and strong, and I have courage, and so I
can work hard. One should be content when one is not cold and hungry,
and I have been many times that, monsieur. Once I worked in a fabrique,
where, all day, we painted the combs of china roosters a bright red for
bon-bon boxes--hundreds and hundreds of them until I used to see them in
my dreams; but the fabrique failed, for the patron ran away with the
wife of a Russian. He was a very stupid man to have done that, monsieur,
for he had a very nice wife of his own--a pretty brunette, with a
charming figure; but you see, monsieur, in Paris it is always that way.
C'est toujours comme ca."